[catluck]

Having addressed, I hope, the major issues, I'm now focusing on AC power. Just replaced a PS Audio Premier Power Plant regenerator which, I thought, gave excellent performance, with the new PS P12 regenerator.  However, downstairs, I'm thinking about using independent line conditioners (running monoblocks) for each side.  Just purchased the Greenwave EMI meter.  Won't use, most likely, their filters, but wondering how folks approach the whole AC conditioner/purifier issue?  Worried about EMI?  Audible?  Tough to discern the legit from the magical claims.  Probably opening a Pandora's box but still interested in people's thoughts.

[Mr. Big]

PS_Audio P15 works well with amps, your P-12 works superb with front-end gear and smaller amps. In my use, I like Sinewave only, the Muti-Wave messes with the sound to much. So gear reacts funny to it and this is not just me but from PS Audio also, they say it is there to try.

A cheap way to improve what comes out of your wall. Pure copper wall plates. No need to spend hundreds of dollars on the "audiophile" wall plates.
Copper blocks RFI, EMI, and Wifi. It is used audio gear to improve sonics, I tried these wall plates and they work, no need to spend 100's of dollars on Audiophile rip of pricing. They make switch plates also if you want to match the wall outlets. 2nd tip you AC outlets have a top outlet and a bottom outlet, the bottom outlet will always sound better, same goes for any power conditioner. AC wire is connected directly to the bottom inlets and then is bridged to the top outlet, so the more direct and less resistance will be the bottom outlet, try it and you will hear it, better bass, better focus, and tighter sound all around.

These are pure 100% copper, not the copper-looking ones. You need 100% copper. The rest are metal with a copper finish, not good at all.

https://www.monarchabode.com/collections/duplex-wall-plates/products/copy-of-monarch-abode-pure-copper-hammered-duplex-wall-plate-switch-plate?variant=39420398796888

[Kishore]

Depends on your incoming power and its quality/fluctuations. I have personally heard first hand a difference power regenerator makes in direct comparisons (since incoming power was pretty poor) and in cases where there was no difference at all. YMMV- using in your home is the best bet. If you get a dedicated line with little variation- power regenerator will not be a major influence IMHO.

[Tyson]

My own experience is that I had such large voltage fluctuations that it actually caused my tube gear to eat tubes at a pretty alarming rate.  Since getting PS Audio P5's, tube gear has been super happy.

[forky]

I posted a thread in the power conditioning forum and only received 1 reply and wasn't able to answer my question ( Post here: https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=177842.0 ) but this explains where I am w/ PCs and addresses power interruptions. This is the UPS I use. I have clean power coming out of my outlet and the UPS "dirties" it by about 2-3 points but still low at around 20 (assuming that reader is accurate). https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1350AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000OFXKFI , here is my post but I have decided that if I do buy a PC it will be at the "end of my list":

Before I spent a few more $k I wanted to get a baseline. I live on a small mountain and although I don't think we have ever had a significant surge we often have brownouts which can last from .1-20 seconds (then our Generac kicks in). Because of this I have all PComputers, the 2 TVs, my driving sim and my new stereo running through (higher end?) Cyber Power UPS's - the stereo is going through Cyber Power 1350 VA. I saw a youtube vid the other day that this one gives out very clean sign waves under back up.

I've been watching youtube vids and reading online about Power Cleaners which lead me to ordering a Trifield Meter EM100. I understand this may not be perfectly accurate but should hopefully be in the ballpark.

Well it just arrived and I plugged it into the UPS and the reading is fluctuating between 19.5-20.5. The instruction booklet says that anything below 50 is considered low noise. I then plugged it directly into the wall and was given a 16.5-17.5. I don't think 3 points, which is what the UPS is costing me is that significant (?).

At what point does someone "need" to consider buying a PC and how how noticeable do you think it would be going from a 20 to 0?