Moving the power switch on Amber 3 DAC

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zkeller

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Moving the power switch on Amber 3 DAC
« on: 24 Nov 2020, 06:36 am »

I find it a real pain that the power switch is on the back of the Lampi. I try to preserve the tubes so switch off the DAC when I am not using it, and reaching behind to find the power switch at the back is a mission.

I am not keen to disturb the beautiful front panel. The sides are difficult because of the removable cover.

Has anyone moved their power switch closer to the front? Perhaps use the O switch on the front for power and move the USB switch to the back?

Thanks for any input.


sfox7076

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Re: Moving the power switch on Amber 3 DAC
« Reply #1 on: 24 Nov 2020, 01:26 pm »
I would just create a power box to switch.  Moving a switch likely would require using multiple new wires (unless the switches are not PCB mounted and they are already point to point wired).  It may also require a change in the type of switch.  You are better off making a new switch for the outlet at the wall or a switch box you can turn on and off.  Otherwise, there is going to be a dealer trip in your future.

bellavita

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Re: Moving the power switch on Amber 3 DAC
« Reply #2 on: 24 Nov 2020, 02:00 pm »
How about this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QKPBZX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use one for an amp that is hard to reach.Plugged into an outlet on an Audience adept response at the wall.Easy peasey.
Cheers

kernelbob

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Re: Moving the power switch on Amber 3 DAC
« Reply #3 on: 24 Nov 2020, 03:01 pm »
Adding a switch, breaker, etc. in the power path impacts the quality of the AC delivered to the unit.  I'd suggest putting a free standing switch first as a test to see if it is audible in your system.

FYI, I'm using the Lampizator Pacific DAC.  I leave it on 24/7/365.  Discussing the question with Lukasz, he said that every time you cycle a tube off/on, a few molecules of air enter the tube.

On the other hand, some tubes are more susceptible to aging when continuously run.  I've heard that my 274B rectifier tube is such.  Though it it a great sounding rectifier, I run a KR-5U4G bu default with a quad of KR-242 output tubes (my favorite) in my Pacific.

sfox7076

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Re: Moving the power switch on Amber 3 DAC
« Reply #4 on: 24 Nov 2020, 06:03 pm »
The thermal shock theory of which Lukasz speaks is not a generally accepted theory, except in the case of kovar bonded transmitting tubes with large pins.  Those get gassy as discussed below.  I think one could argue that the filament current inrush could be much more of an issue.  That was solved by the filament system having a current limiter or constant current (which lampizator uses).  I don't buy the thermal shock argument at all really.  Tube's don't generally die becuase the vacuum has failed.  If they do, they usually have either a purple blaze of glory (gas.  Once had an awesome 5z3 that would shoot sparks at 300v, but test fine in a tube tester (around 150 volts), it looked fine) or the getter turns white.  Mechanical shock (dropping  a tube) is what usually causes the getter to go white.  Gas happens when tubes are not operated becasue either the seal on the pins does not hold up or the internal part of the tube released too much gas from degredation and the getter (which only operates when in use) cannot degas the tube.  All that said, the tubes we use do not have pins or plates big enough to drive them to get gassy.  Frankly, in the hundreds of tubes I have used and tested, usually, in my experience, a tube will fail when the filament breaks or won't emit anymore (I am only taliking triode's now) because there is nothing left on the cathode.  If it won't emit, it is usually becuase you have used the tube's electron material and there is just nothing left to make the cloud of electrons needed for conduction.  If the filament breaks, it can happy for any number of reasons, but I believe current in rush is a much greater culprit.  It's like trying to pump 10 times the blood through your body for a second.  It's bad.  But that has been cleared up now because of current limiting/regulation.  It isn't infallable, but it stops the pop most of the time.  I always turn my tubes off.  The usage of the electron's on the cathode is a much greater worry to me because I have a lot more 4 pin triode tubes whose cathode is failing to emit than I have gassy tubes.  I am not going to raise issues of grid emission in this, but that is another potential issue.  I will also say that low voltage for some filament types (i.e., tungsten) is not bad.  For others (e.g., oxide filaments) you need to be in a +/- of 5%. 

Shawn
 

Delta77

Re: Moving the power switch on Amber 3 DAC
« Reply #5 on: 24 Nov 2020, 07:08 pm »
Decware is making a Power outlet box with a power switch for each of it's 8 outlets..
I'm sure PI audiio group could make you something as well ..

doggie

Re: Moving the power switch on Amber 3 DAC
« Reply #6 on: 10 Sep 2021, 12:32 pm »
I woulds never leave a tube amp/DAC/pre on for 24/7/365. If I am going to leave the house I always turn off my tube equipment. I have had two amps let the smoke out. Both were luckily witnessed and turned quickly off. One had a solid state rectifier fail and the other had a resistor fail.

One could argue that this can also happen with SS devices but I think that tube devices are more susceptible. I started a thread on this topic and got a lot of replies with similar experiences.

Having said this, I would also vote for making the front switch be the power switch.

I would also like a standby switch which allows the digital circuity to remain powered up but the tube circuit powered down.

« Last Edit: 15 Sep 2021, 12:43 pm by doggie »