Im building a clarinet digikey is missing parts where do i get them?

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alpa6

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 49
I need ccm1647-nd and cp-1441.The cp-1441 is really what im worried about as its the 3 prong rca jack.The other part is a ac receptical i figure i might be able to find that elsewhere.Anyone have any idea's?Jim you have any extra parts?

Bill Epstein

http://www.cui.com/pdffiles/RCJ-61XX.pdf

If you print the link you may contact the manufacturer directly or search Mouser or Allied to find a comparable part. You can also get individual RCAs, of course, and direct wire them to the holes in the board as many of us do. 

alpa6

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 49
Well it seems i might have to individualy wire the rca's.Im really afraid of the rcas on my cornet 2.Like i might pull out the traces.I guess this actually might be the better way to go.Still if i make a mistake building it or have a bum part its going to be a real pain.

Bill Epstein

If you're a first-timer, a few tips:
The only dmage you can do to a female RCA is to overheat to where either the teflon sleeve that shields the hot from ground comes loose or, more commonly, solder flows over the hot onto ground.   :wink:Plug a male in to sink some of the heat away.  :wink:Use a 40 watt iron if you can or 750 degrees on a regulated station. More heat lets you get on and off before bad things happen.  :thumb:Take care to mount the RCAs so the open side of the hot solder channel is up. Flow some solder into it, just enough to coat it and a little more, don't fill it. Place the bare wire on the solder and heat the wire and pin so the solder already in the pin flows onto the wire.  :thumb:You don't need 4 separate grounds: before you tighten down the jacks mate the 2 ground tabs together and use 1 ground wire run through both.  :thumb:The 3/8" bit you need to drill the holes will want to wander off your mark: drill a 1/8" hole first.

Jim's boards are tanks; I've changed wires and fixed mistakes several times and more w/o damaging the traces.

Be sure to get parts that have teflon chassis insulators. Best recommendation are Vampire CM Hex, nicely priced at 10.50/pair from Michael Percy http://www.percyaudio.com/. The hex shape on the outside makes'm easy to mount and they're tough. While you're there, get some XLO 26 gauge chassis wire; takes very little heat to solder and sounds good, too.

A really neat way to tighten down the Vampires is to use a 1/2" socket driven by a large flat blade screwdriver (you're ratchet driver won't fit in the hole unless you have really deep socket).

Hope this helps and puts you at ease.