[henrylr]

I'm thinking of buying a NOS Japanese direct drive TT but I'm confused with their spec.s. Many direct drive Technics had wow and flutter of .025% and rumble numbers like 78dB. Pioneer TTs had similar wow and flutter of .025% but rumble of 70dB. Did Pioneer use a different rumble measurement standard. It seems like Pioneer spec.s put it at a disadvantage.
thanks

[FullRangeMan]

I'm thinking of buying a NOS Japanese direct drive TT but I'm confused with their spec.s. Many direct drive Technics had wow and flutter of .025% and rumble numbers like 78dB. Pioneer TTs had similar wow and flutter of .025% but rumble of 70dB. Did Pioneer use a different rumble measurement standard. It seems like Pioneer spec.s put it at a disadvantage.
thanks

What are the models and prices in questions?
These specs good or bad will be no audible in a room, more important will be the cartridge you will use, MM, MC, MI etc
Some Technics SL1200 models can surpass $4,000usd. I very much like the SL1200 bells and whistles so I would pick an Direct Drive AudioTech or Pioneer with same 1200 looking, they are very under $1K.
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-LP120XUSB-BZ-Direct-Drive-Turntable-Anti-Skate/dp/B0BN27CNXD/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3V8YDGXBO7FC4&keywords=audio%2Btechnica%2Bturntable%2Bautomatic&qid=1692664097&s=electronics&sprefix=audio%2Btec%2Celectronics-intl-ship%2C312&sr=1-13&th=1

[FullRangeMan]

One spec to be considered is the net weight, less weight, more plastic.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DJ-Direct-Turntable-PLX-1000/dp/B00O8U3ZI2/ref=psdc_11974061_t2_B079QQ131N

[Rocket]

Hi,

If you wanted to buy a heavy hitter Japanese direct drive turntable you shouldn't go past a Yamaha GT2000. Far cheaper than buying any new turntable.

Cheers Rod

[Letitroll98]

Remember that you're buying a turntable, not just a motor and platter.  So tonearm and isolation are every bit as important as rumble, wow and flutter specs.  I'm a fan of the older servo Pioneers with the "wood" bases (mdf with vinyl wrap) and better tone arms, PL570, 550, 590.  Although their wow and flutter is higher than later model quartz locked units they sound better than the plastic bodied models.  The darlings of the vintage crowd, JVC QL F7 and lower models as well as the aforementioned Technics SL 1200 are priced at insane levels relative to their sound quality, but they are good tables if you find one at a reasonable price.  The last caveat is electronics.  These old tables may have unrepairable or at least hard to fix electric boards, check before buying.

[S Clark]

... The darlings of the vintage crowd, JVC QL F7... The last caveat is electronics.  These old tables may have unrepairable or at least hard to fix electric boards, check before buying.

I think you meant the JVC QL7 or perhaps the JVC QL-F6 (I don't think they made a QL-F7).  Both are excellent but no longer cheap.  The QL-F6 may be the best auto TT ever built.  I like the tonearm better than the arm on the QL7.  If you find a QL-F6 follow the advice of our long departed TheChairGuy and stuff it with PlastiClay.   
And your right about make sure it's working.  Repairing my Victor TT-81 cost as much as the table cost me. It was only worth spending the cash since I had already recapped it myself. 

[henrylr]

Would a Pioneer Quartz Direct Drive PL-707 sound better that a Dual 1249?
Thanks

[Letitroll98]

I think you meant the JVC QL7 or perhaps the JVC QL-F6 (I don't think they made a QL-F7).  Both are excellent but no longer cheap.  The QL-F6 may be the best auto TT ever built.  I like the tonearm better than the arm on the QL7.  If you find a QL-F6 follow the advice of our long departed TheChairGuy and stuff it with PlastiClay.   
And your right about make sure it's working.  Repairing my Victor TT-81 cost as much as the table cost me. It was only worth spending the cash since I had already recapped it myself.

I couldn't remember the model number so looked it up on Google.  That's what the search came up with.  All I know about them is The Chair Guy loved them after some plasticlay was applied to the underside of the plinth, and many others confirmed it.  I agree completely about the arm being critical, but I wouldn't know which is best on that table.  If I remember one is a fancy servo motor controlled jobby and the other is a much more standard design, but can't recall which one knowledgeable folks prefer.  Is that correct?

[Rocket]

Hi Guys,

Here is some further information about the Yamaha GT2000 for your consideration:

https://liquidaudio.com.au/yamaha-gt-2000-turntable-review/

I almost bought one but the voltage is different in Australia and I would have had to use a step-down transformer.

Cheers Rod

[S Clark]

Hi Guys,

Here is some further information about the Yamaha GT2000 for your consideration:

https://liquidaudio.com.au/yamaha-gt-2000-turntable-review/

I almost bought one but the voltage is different in Australia and I would have had to use a step-down transformer.

Cheers Rod

If he's looking at modding a Dual 1249, I'd bet those are out of his price range... most go for $1400 up.   

[VinceT]

A quick search that Yamaha table is going for close to 2k usd in the used market.

You can get the technics 1200 $500-600. That table has endless mods and part availability.

[S Clark]

I bought my Victor TT 81 for under $500... a few years ago.   But I recapped it myself to protect the IC chip that is unobtainium.   They are in a different class from the older Technics 1200's-- similar to the Yamaha GT2000.   
There are some pretty decent tables out there for under $350.  Maybe the JVC QL-f4.  Great motor, crap plinth, sorta ok tonearm.   And yes, some of those older wood plinth Pioneers. 

[Rocket]

Hi Guys,

So if he has a limited budget he might want to consider a Denon DP-1200 direct driver turntable:

https://www.ebay.com/p/8032426316

I have a Technics sl1200g and my techie says it is about the same quality as a Denon.  There are heaps of these in the USA. They sound great and look fantastic as well.

Cheers Rod