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Hi David,Post #7 in the thread that you posted shows all drivers in phase. The 12" and 15" are in series and in phase with each other. Your battery test should have all woofer cones moving in the same direction.Regards,Ed
Ed, I triple checked. I've got everything wired according to post #7 in the thread.But, the 15 in is still out of phase with the 3 other woofers.By definition, if the 15 and the 12 are wired in series, they are going to be out of phase with each other though, correct?Only if two drivers are wired in parallel will they be in phase, correct?----The 12 and 15 can be wired in series and still be in phase. Check the following:(This checks if the 12 and 15 are wired correctly in series per the drawing.)The positive of the 12 goes to the positive terminal lug of the cabinet.The negative of the 12 goes to the positive of the 15.The negative of the 15 goes through the inductor and to the negative terminal lug of the cabinet. If all of this checks out then check the following:(This checks the terminal polarities of the 12 and 15 are marked and wired correctly. You may have to disconnect wires that go to other drivers to isolate the 12 and 15. Keep the wire that connects the 12 to the 15)Connect the battery directly to the terminals on the 12. The cone on the 12 should pop forward.Connect the battery directly to the terminals on the 15. The cone on the 15 should pop forward.Connect the + of the battery directly to the + of the 12, the - of the battery directly to the - of the 15. The 12 and 15 should pop forward.Please post your results here.Regards,Ed
Recommend using an ohmeter to determine which is + and which is -. Put it on beep or continuity mode, place one lead on the + input and with other lead touch to the place you think is + on the switch. If it beeps and reads 0 to .4 ohms that is the + input.
I was about to say, the OP should battery test the 15" and 12" woofers independently of one another on their own, as some woofers (sounds like his may not be original?) move 'in' on a positive charge to the red terminal not out. JBL was known for this, and many of their drivers attach the red/positive wire to the black terminal on the driver for outward movement.
Ok, I'm going to check this. What makes it a bit confusing is that, for example, is the + of the 12 goes not to the + lug, but to the + of the ribbed 10, then it goes to the cabinet lug. And the neg of the 15 doesn't go to the - of the cabinet, but to the neg of the smooth 10. Then, the ribbed 10 goes to the neg of the cabinet. And so on, and so one. Same with the tweeters...------If you can draw what you have traced out and post it that may help to sort this out. It can be compared to the posted schematics. I also second what was mentioned regarding checking each driver separately for correct polarity. I'd mark the + and - with a Sharpie.+ of the 12 going to + of the ribbed 10 then to the (+?) lug of the cabinet seems right, that would put the ribbed 10 as the top 10 in the drawing from George. - of 15 going to - of smooth 10 also seems right, smooth 10 would be the bottom 10 in the drawing . Where is the inductor and capacitors in all of this? Drawing what you have would help.Ed
Just to add to what Ed said. If the 9V battery has enough current (use fresh battery) you could apply to the terminals (+ to + terminal and - to - terminal) and see all drivers moving forward. If you see the 15" going in opposite direction swap wires going to it. If the 9V battery does not have enough current, you could put two 9V batteries in parrallel (+ to + and - to -) and retry.This is a simplified version of the schemtic which may help you visualize how they are wired. It shows the two 10" drivers wired in series which are connected in parrallel with the 12" and 15" drivers wired in series. They are all in phase.
Oh come on...somebody comment on how dumb I was!
Nope. Cause none of us were smart enough to ask "Have you checked polarity from the binding posts?"