I'd guess 8 oz is going to be plenty but never hurts to have some extra on hand... you don't want the glue gushing out all over the place. When you glue the braces in the dado's, a bead right down the center of the dado is all you need, same with dado's on rear of baffle. In the 10 degree rabbet on rear of baffle, you want a nice even covering, run a decent bead down the inner corner then use a small brush to even it out.
I'd have never have painted these first but that is just me... joints, glue lines etc all need to be dealt with before painting in my opinion.
With regards to the video, we dry fit those on the bench and there was no gaps so you've got some thing "kicked " or too much clamping force. The wings need to be pulled forward into the rabbet slightly, you will not accomplish this using clamps from the rear of brace to front of baffle, it will only pull the brace forward... you need to cut a scrap chunk of wood or something to reach across the back of the wings, then you can gently pull from the scrap wood to the front baffle through a woofer hole, multiple woofer holes is better.
We also like to use small 6" quick clamps from inner woofer cutouts to front edge of wings to squeeze them against the baffle rabbet, but not too tight as it can press the wings out,
Thanks for the tips. I did a test glue on the shipping damage panels just to get a feel for amount and drying time. Then, I did my first actual glue last night of the left speaker.
I think everything went well with minor challenges from the clamps and glue brush shedding. I'll have videos soon.
I know you guys do the dry fit, but I was referring to the fact that the replacement panels were sent separately from the original braces, so everything still dry fitting with the legacy braces was impressive.
In hindsight, I might have chosen to paint after... especially if I wanted a car quality paint finish, but I gained a few advantages painting first.
1. Putting multiple coats on small pieces and examining quality was much easier than with a 7 foot tall cabinet and limited access to the braces... top and bottom.
2. I had to assemble these in my room because they are so large and riskier to carry upstairs (especially me solo). Thus, I really couldn't paint something that big in a small room after construction.
3. Choosing Duratex was more conducive to painting before construction because there's no way to get that roller and pattern to the edges of things like the braces once it's assembled. I would have had to use something other than Duratex on the braces, but since they are visible from the rear I tried to keep everything consistent.
Definitely a pro woodworker and painter would breeze through this much easier and have more clamps/tools/space. However, I'm proving that even a total noob can do it.
Thanks again for the help.