AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: mlundy57 on 18 Jun 2015, 02:58 pm
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When building a pair of the AV-1RS's should both baffles be glued on in the same orientation (the website shows the tweeter to the left) or should they be glued on opposite each other so that when placed on the wall both tweeters could have the same orientation (both on the outside or both on the inside)?
If opposite, which on wall orientation is best, tweeters on the inside or on the outside?
Thanks,
Mike
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I have 4 of them for sides and rears. I mirrored them with all of the woofers closest to the corners. I have no idea if this is "right" but they worked out very well in my case.
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Mirror them. Set up with tweeter to the inside or tweeters to the outside doesn't matter that much.
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Thanks Tom and Danny
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Hey Mike,
I've always built them as lefts and rights. Not that it matters much, but it just looks right to my eye.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/AV1RS1.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/AV1RS1.jpg.html)
A 3/4" round-over to the bottom edges adds a nice touch as well.
Here's a side by side comparison.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/AV1RS_zps1521a204.png) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/AV1RS_zps1521a204.png.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/AV1RS6.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/AV1RS6.jpg.html)
Grilles that follow the shape of the enclosures look great as well.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_1195.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_1195.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_1198.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_1198.jpg.html)
Look forward to seeing your project! :thumb:
Best,
Ruben
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Wow!
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Hey Mike,
I've always built them as lefts and rights. Not that it matters much, but it just looks right to my eye.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/AV1RS1.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/AV1RS1.jpg.html)
A 3/4" round-over to the bottom edges adds a nice touch as well.
Here's a side by side comparison.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/AV1RS_zps1521a204.png) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/AV1RS_zps1521a204.png.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/AV1RS6.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/AV1RS6.jpg.html)
Grilles that follow the shape of the enclosures look great as well.
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_1195.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_1195.jpg.html)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/IMG_1198.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/IMG_1198.jpg.html)
Look forward to seeing your project! :thumb:
Best,
Ruben
Ruben,
Very nice. I really like the grill idea and your timing could not have been better, I am gutting the grill frames tonight. That grill style has the added benefit of easier mounting options for the magnets too.
It will mean setting the router table back up for flush trimming but what the heck. It'll be worth it.
Mike
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Hey Mike,
Are the enclosures already finished?
You can't cut the beveled edge, or that round-over with a flush trim set up.
You may want to cut the frames to width, bevel the front edge on the table saw and then run the beveled edge on your fence to cut them to the correct depth. Cut them undersized to account for the grill cloth thickness. That way they are flush with the enclosures when they are done.
Hope that made sense! :D
Ruben
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Ruben,
The grill frames have not been cut yet.
The cabinets are cut, glued up, the two long front edges rounded over (1/2" radius but I can easily increase it to 3/4"), NoRez and crossover networks installed, seams filled and sanded.
Just waiting on cutting the grill frames so I can set the magnets then they will be ready for painting the rear recess and for the veneer.
So you are saying to cut the grill frames with a 10 degree angle on both long edges just like the baffle but about 1/8" narrower (7 7/8" instead of 8") Then put a 3/4" roundover on the front edges?
Mike
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Ruben,
The grill frames have not been cut yet.
The cabinets are cut, glued up, the two long front edges rounded over (1/2" radius but I can easily increase it to 3/4"), NoRez and crossover networks installed, seams filled and sanded.
Just waiting on cutting the grill frames so I can set the magnets then they will be ready for painting the rear recess and for the veneer.
So you are saying to cut the grill frames with a 10 degree angle on both long edges just like the baffle but about 1/8" narrower (7 7/8" instead of 8") Then put a 3/4" roundover on the front edges?
Mike
Mike,
Figure out your front to back dimension and rip your material (long enough to cut both grilles lengths from) to that dimension with the correct angles on both edges. I'd cut one edge and use a test piece to set your saw up for the other edge. Once you have it perfectly flush with the enclosure, deduct whatever you need to to account for the grill cloth thickness and trim it. It'll be less than 1/16". Then just chop (2) pieces from the board that are the with of the enclosure minus the same dimension you deducted for the grill cloth on the front to back dimension.
Hope I'm explaining it well enough! If I'm making it difficult to understand I can put together a picture tutorial for you. I did that for a guy who was having a lot of trouble making LS-9 baffles and it worked great for him.
Ruben
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Ruben,
Thanks. I understand. That's pretty much how I thought it would be.
How thick is your grill frame material? I normally use 1/2".
Mike
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Thanks. I understand. That's pretty much how I thought it would be.
Excellent!
How thick is your grill frame material? I normally use 1/2".
1/2" will provide enough clearance for the woofers in these guys. I typically only use thicker material on boxed sub woofers to allow for greater surround clearance and driver excursion.
Best,
Ruben
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Ruben,
the AV1RS cabinets are gorgeous :thumb:
jay
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I'm currently working on two new projects, one is a pair of A/V-1RS's. Here are some pics so far.
First, as usual, cut out all the pieces. If it looks like a lot of wood for a pair of A/V-1RS's it is. Since setting up the saw is the biggest time consuming part, I cut out enough for 4 pairs.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123498)
Here are some pics of the construction process to date:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123499)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123500)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123501)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123502)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123503)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123504)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123505)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123506)
Here are the crossovers. I did them on separate boards and mounted each under it's respective driver:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123507)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123508)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123509)
Next came the NoRez. The crossovers and NoRez were a lot easier to install before the sides were glued on.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123512)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123511)
Then I glued on the sides (I like clamps :D):
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123513)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123514)
Here are the sides glued on but not trimmed yet:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123515)
Next came flush trimming and rounding over the front edges. I have a 1/2" radius on them here but am going to increase it to 3/4".
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123517)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123518)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=123519)
Next up is increasing the radius, cutting the grill frames, installing the magnets, finish filling and sanding, painting the rear recesess, veneering, finishing and installing the drivers and binding post cups. Still a ways to go but coming along.
Mike
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Mike,
It's always great to follow your projects. While I always learn something, my woodworking skills are to the left of zero. My first build was X-LS Encores from flat packs purchased from Ruben. I was fortunate to recently add a gorgeous pair of black leatherette N3 TL's (built by Ruben for another A.C. member) as my mains. Would the AV-1RS work well as surrounds with my set-up? If so, just wondering if any of the 3 extra pair of flat packs have a home yet. Provided I can't somehow convince you I'm a distant cousin :lol:. I do envy some of those builds for your family members. All the best -John.
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John,
Thanks
The A/V-1RS is a very good match as surrounds for the N3TL's. One of those three pairs is intended to go with my N3TL's in the living room. I'm familiar with your N3TL's, though only from pictures. Very nice indeed. That is a nice sounding speaker, isn't it?
While at least one possibly, two of those three pairs is not currently spoken for, you would not want them as a flat pack. If you look closely, you will notice there are no rabbits or dados anywhere to help line parts up. I use jigs and clamps to glue the parts up at the proper angle and where I want them. I also cut certain parts oversize on purpose to make sure I can line them up and don't end up with the wrong dimension too short. Then I use a flush trim bit in a router to clean everything up.
There is a lot more work involved in going from one of my stacks of cut parts to a finished cabinet then there is with one of Ruben's or Ben's flat packs.
I'll be more than happy to build a pair for you but if I sold you one of the parts sets to build yourself there would be no end to the inventive names you'd be calling me :lol:
As for a distant cousin, too late. My wife has told me I cannot build any new projects (though I still have a couple I haven't finished yet) for family members unless they pay for the parts. :green:
Mike
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Unless one had a router and a place to make some dust, I would only offer the AV-1RS as ready to finish units as well.
Jazyes,
I've built a few pair of leatherette N3's. Are these the ones you have?
Thanks!
Ruben
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z387/Outofthewoods/BlackLeatheretteN3s.jpg) (http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/Outofthewoods/media/BlackLeatheretteN3s.jpg.html)
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Mike,
Thanks for the input. The N3TL's are terrific. I don't have quite enough room in the "cave" for any OB designs, but maybe someday... Please send a PM with a price for a pair
of AV-1RS' when you get a chance. Thanks -John
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Ruben,
I believe I'm the 3rd owner of this pair. If I did my research correctly, I think my pair were originally built for "Dwayne" in 2011. The pair you've pictured sure look like
mine. Gorgeous work! They have a "block" between the base and the bottom of the speaker. It doesn't appear that spikes were never used, but there are four small
holes drilled in the bottom of the bases that are probably for the spikes. I will have to order them from Danny since the seller did not include a pair. Take Care- John.
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Ruben,
I believe I'm the 3rd owner of this pair. If I did my research correctly, I think my pair were originally built for "Dwayne" in 2011. The pair you've pictured sure look like
mine. Gorgeous work! They have a "block" between the base and the bottom of the speaker. It doesn't appear that spikes were never used, but there are four small
holes drilled in the bottom of the bases that are probably for the spikes. I will have to order them from Danny since the seller did not include a pair. Take Care- John.
I'm Wayne and yes I am the original owner of those enclosures. I built the xovers, installed the drivers and wired up everything. The top cap of one of them got damaged in shipment on the way to the second owner. He had it repaired locally. Guess the repair came out OK?
BTW, they sounded great when I had them. I only sold them to 'upgrade' to the OB-5 model. Ruben built these enclosures too :D
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I'm finally getting the primer coat the way I want it. Hopefully, one more day of working on it will give me a smooth primer coat.
The amount of detail sanding on the Wedgies has been a lot more than I thought it would be, Lots of small pieces and narrow areas to try and sand smooth.
I have been using Bullseye 1-2-3 primer. Good stuff but I just realized there is a small issue. The primer is white. The color I am planning on using is also white. This is going to pose a problem in seeing proper coverage of the color coat.
I have thought about shooting a second coat of primer with the addition of a dye such as Trans-Tint. Any thoughts as to whether this is a good idea or not?
If so, what color tint would you recommend for under a white color coat. If not, what would you suggest to help visualize coverage of the white color coat?
Thanks,
Mike
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I'm finally getting the primer coat the way I want it. Hopefully, one more day of working on it will give me a smooth primer coat.
The amount of detail sanding on the Wedgies has been a lot more than I thought it would be, Lots of small pieces and narrow areas to try and sand smooth.
I have been using Bullseye 1-2-3 primer. Good stuff but I just realized there is a small issue. The primer is white. The color I am planning on using is also white. This is going to pose a problem in seeing proper coverage of the color coat.
I have thought about shooting a second coat of primer with the addition of a dye such as Trans-Tint. Any thoughts as to whether this is a good idea or not?
If so, what color tint would you recommend for under a white color coat. If not, what would you suggest to help visualize coverage of the white color coat?
Thanks,
Mike
Mike,
I think your tinting idea is good. If you use black dye, you should get a light gray primer which should contrast good under white. Try the tinted primer on a scrap piece to see if you get enough contrast, add more black if you want it darker gray. What brand of paint, and clear are you using?
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Larry,
The color is General Finishes Snow White milk paint (water based) ant the topcoat is General Finishes High Performance water based polyurethane.
Mike
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Next installment on the A/V-1RS Build.
I have painted the inset portion of the backs black.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124329)
Before I could do any veneering, I had to get the grill frames made and the magnets installed in the cabinets.
Here are the grill frames laid out with the 10 degree angle cut along the front edge and a 3/4" roundover on the corners
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124330)
Here's a glimpse of what the grills are going to look like. The frames have been completed, magnets installed and grill cloth applied. The cabinets have not been veneered yet.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124331)
Here is one of the cabinets with the front piece of veneer applied
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124332)
Here it is with the grill
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124333)
I will finish the veneering tomorrow evening and might even get the first coat of stain applied
Mike
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Here are some pictures with the stain applied. It is General Finishes Java Gel Stain on flat cut White Oak. This is one coat of stain. The finish has not been applied yet. The grills are on to get the overall effect.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124446)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124447)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=124448)
Mike
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VERY nice!....... :thumb:
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It looks really good in the pics Mike :thumb:
I am a bit curious as to what yo think of the Gel stain and the appearence it is actually giving you.... I tried some Minwax Gel stain vs oil on some test boards a while back and found although the gel wasn't bad by any means, it really seemed to cover or mask the grain slightly compared to the oil stain. Even after letting it dry then top coating it with some wipe on poly, it gave the same effect hence I went back to the oil.
Just wanting to know if you are getting a similar effect or if you are ending up with that same "pop" oils typically provide.
-jay
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VERY nice!....... :thumb:
Thanks
It looks really good in the pics Mike :thumb:
I am a bit curious as to what yo think of the Gel stain and the appearence it is actually giving you.... I tried some Minwax Gel stain vs oil on some test boards a while back and found although the gel wasn't bad by any means, it really seemed to cover or mask the grain slightly compared to the oil stain. Even after letting it dry then top coating it with some wipe on poly, it gave the same effect hence I went back to the oil.
Just wanting to know if you are getting a similar effect or if you are ending up with that same "pop" oils typically provide.
-jay
Jay,
This is the first time I have used gel stain. It gives a very smooth and even color but is more opaque (the grain is not as visible) than oil stain. Wiping it off faster and/or more aggressively may cut down on that effect some but for this project the customer wanted the dark color/more opaque with muted wood grain look so the gel stain was perfect.
I have to say, my wife and I are both impressed with the outcome. However, oil stain would still be my choice if I wanted to add some color to an even staining wood with a grain pattern I want to accent.
Though I usually prefer to use a wood that has a natural color and grain pattern I like so that I don't need any stain at all, just a clear topcoat.
Mike
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The A/V-1RS's are done. At first I put a gloss finish on them
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126563)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126562)
But that was really too shiny. The person I'm building them for wanted it toned down so I rubbed them down and applied a coat of satin Arm-R-Seal. I have to say I like the satin look better on these. The color looks different depending on whether the flash is on or off.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126564)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126565)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126566)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126567)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=126568)
As for the sound, I'm thrilled with them. The surround channels came to life with these compared the other speakers I have used for this purpose. I had to reduce the volume 3dB from the satellites I was using on both channels to balance them with the Wedgies.
As soon as I finish all the speakers I am building for other people I'm building a couple pairs of A/V-1RS's for myself.
Mike