[Antman27]

Has anyone tried the Super T amp ?
For $160 ($140 web) I was thinking of given it a try and use my denon 3805 to prosess
Any Thoughts ?

http://www.si5.com/products.php?pID=4004

[shep]

http://www.michael.mardis.com/trendamp/modded.htmu I think you will find this better in every way.
cheers

[Antman27]

Link does not work 

[fajimr]

if you are into DIY, you might also want to check out 41hz.com.

I've read good things about their amps and just ordered an AMP6...  haven't received it yet tough.
jim

[fajimr]

Link does not work 

try this

http://www.michael.mardis.com/

[Antman27]

Not a DYI guy -I like P&P
Plug and play 

[fajimr]

check out TNT- they've reviewed some t-amps (although some of them are DIY- you can at least get a sense of what's out there): 

http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/amps.html

good luck... have you also looked over at the horn shop circle?  They sometimes discuss t-amps. 

jim

[acresm22]

I've used both the T-amp and the Super-T with my Klipsch LaScalas. Both sound great, but the added connectivity and audiophile touches (nice speaker binding posts and RCA inputs, better volume pot) make the Super-T the prefered option by far. I think it has the edge sonically too, but that's a gray area.

BTW (and I may be starting a whole other dialogue here), I made the switch from SET to Tripath for a brief period, but am now firmly back in 300B SET land. I find the triode amp much more involving. The SI amps seem to dazzle when you first hook them up, but the honeymoon ended fairly quickly (at least for me)....listener fatique, sizzly top end, lack of tube bloom, blah blah blah. I've tried some of the tweaked Tripath amps available out there as well, and had the same response... initial reaction of "wow!", but then became less enchanted. I now use the Super-T with an in-wall pair of Fostex FE127s for a "house" system, and I like that combo just fine.

[Antman27]

I guess the real question is will it do a better job than my denon 3805

[shep]

Hard call without hearing side-by-side! Anyway I'm keeping an open mind (ear) since I've taken the plunge and await mine. There seems to be a lot of differences regarding how people react to this technology. It's fairly new after all. Is it the chip that causes differences in opinion or how it's implimented? I have an old upgraded SS which is very nice but lacks the last bit of transparency and delicacy. It's always that last bit that is the hardest to achieve! As soon as I get mine (which has a review, unmodded, on 6moons)
I will certainly not be able to restrain myself from telling the world what I think! I hope I like it and don't get that fatigue. At least it will not be a 1000$ + mistake!

[JLM]

Ant,

1st, size the amp to provide a commanding grip of the speakers. 

IMO that means reaching at least 105 dB in your room (more if you're a headbanger).  Two channels adds 3 dB.  A 10 ft x 10 ft room cost 0 dB, a 12 ft x 20 ft room costs 3 dB, and larger room cost more.  5 watts = 7 dB of gain, 10 watts = 10 dB, 20 watts = 13 dB, 40 watts = 16 dB, etc.  Add all these factors to the rated speaker efficiency to determine what dB you can reach in your room.  In a small room with efficient speakers (say 92 dB/w/m) you'd need 105 - 3 - 0 - 92 = 10 dB or 10 wpc.  In a big room with 88 dB/w/m speakers you'd need 105 - 3 + 3 - 88 = 17 dB or 50 wpc.

Undersizing the amp is the easiest way to destroy speakers as highly distorted signals from an amp pushed too hard causes clipping.  This clipping where the signal peaks are "clipped" off (if seen on a scope).  Clipping results in the driver trying to start and stop instantly which will generate excessive heat build up (as the driver can't accelerate that fast) and melt voice coils.

Even without clipping dynamics and soundstage suffer from lack of grip.

For the price a Super T, TA-10, etc. can't be beat, if all you need is a few watts.