[Vedder323]

Hey dudes! Been working hard on some new stands... base is made from Knotty Hickory, 22'' tall and approx 9'' wide. Top and bottom plates are Shedua. All hardwood and put together, these things already weight a TON!

Questions:

1. Considering how heavy these already are, is there something lighter than sand to full the bases with?

2. Spikes at the bottom a must? What about caster wheels?

Any other thoughts or ideas are welcome!

Ron

-New Record Day

[Folsom]

I'd think bracing would reduce vibrations more than sand unless the tops were floating on sand. That is unless you figure out how to compress the sand. Maybe sand would help some with internal bracing but not a lot. No-res would be a great option with some bracing.

Herbies feet?

[cody69]

Nice work Ron.

1. Considering how heavy these already are, is there something lighter than sand to full the bases with?

An appropriate question given the open cavity in each stand is about 1 cubic foot.
A cubic foot of dry sand weighs about 100 lbs,, so moving them would be a chore.

I've heard others use rice and kitty litter, but have no direct experience with these alternatives.

Good luck!

[lacro]

I think 9" for the base is pretty small. I used 12" and I think Danny likes to use 14" For filling the inside, you could cut some wood squares that will fit the opening, cut a hole in the center of each so a 3" pc. of plastic pipe (DWV) will fit through. Glue the squares (2-3) into the opening, and insert the plastic pipe capped on one end. Fill pipe with sand, and cap the top end. This will give you 2-3 internal braces, and a good sized stack of sand.

[BPT]

All good suggestions.
Here's another suggestion that is a little out of the box. Rotate the top plate of the stand so that it fits the column from corner to corner and use it like that--with a corner of the column directly facing you (instead of one of the flat sides of the columns). Any largish flat surface area near a speaker reflects the sound and will help muck up the soundstage. This way the flat surface areas are at an angle to your listening position and room walls. It looks a little strange, but works (sounds) like a charm.
Chris H.

[srb]

I think 9" for the base is pretty small. I used 12" and I think Danny likes to use 14"

I think when Vedder323 said "base is made from Knotty Hickory, 22'' tall and approx 9'' wide" he's talking about the column dimensions.  The base ("Top and bottom plates are Shedua") does appear to be ~ 14"

Steve

[HAL]

Wonderful looking stands!   

[Vedder323]

I think when Vedder323 said "base is made from Knotty Hickory, 22'' tall and approx 9'' wide" he's talking about the column dimensions.  The base ("Top and bottom plates are Shedua") does appear to be ~ 14"

Steve

Correct.

[mcgsxr]

I use kitty litter as stand filler all the time.  My current Dayton stands are filled with about 20lbs each under my Totem Model 1's.

Simple to use, and lighter than sand.  Works fine.

[Captainhemo]

I've got some  snow up here I part with Ron 

 Great looking stands   !
If you feel they are heavy enough already,   you could use  open cell foam or rockwool.....  if you want them a bit heavier,  use a combination of the sand and OCF/Rockwool to get the weight exactly where you want it   and also fill  the cavity

-jay

[Danny Richie]

All good suggestions.
Here's another suggestion that is a little out of the box. Rotate the top plate of the stand so that it fits the column from corner to corner and use it like that--with a corner of the column directly facing you (instead of one of the flat sides of the columns). Any largish flat surface area near a speaker reflects the sound and will help muck up the soundstage. This way the flat surface areas are at an angle to your listening position and room walls. It looks a little strange, but works (sounds) like a charm.
Chris H.

Chirs is correct. That was my first thought as well. His post is worth reading a second time. It is very good feedback.

[Danny Richie]

You could always fill them up with Styrofoam peanuts and then poor in the sand. That would keep them from being too heavy while still allowing the sand to mass load the side panels to dampen them out. 

[Rivalaudio]

All good suggestions.
Here's another suggestion that is a little out of the box. Rotate the top plate of the stand so that it fits the column from corner to corner and use it like that--with a corner of the column directly facing you (instead of one of the flat sides of the columns). Any largish flat surface area near a speaker reflects the sound and will help muck up the soundstage. This way the flat surface areas are at an angle to your listening position and room walls. It looks a little strange, but works (sounds) like a charm.
Chris H.

Im not sure what you mean on this...  trying to wrap my head around it.

[corndog71]

You could get something like an acrylic tube to take up space in the middle of the column and fill the area around the tube with litter / sand.

[rockdrummer]

I am having trouble quoting.  But I think BPT suggested instead of having the stand set up like a square with a flat side facing the listener, the column of the stand could be a diamond shape.  With the seam or crease or point running up and down in the middle facing the listener.  Basically rotating the base and top 45 degrees. 

Ben

[HAL]

The stands the way they are may act as a baffle extension for a mini-monitor.  This may help with bass response to some extent.

If you have Room EQ Wizard and a mic you might try a farfield measurement to see which stand orientation works best in your room.

Just a thought.

[Folsom]

The stands the way they are may act as a baffle extension for a mini-monitor.  This may help with bass response to some extent.

If you have Room EQ Wizard and a mic you might try a farfield measurement to see which stand orientation works best in your room.

Just a thought.

Yes, or it becomes a passive radiator that steals DB. That's why I said brace it like a speaker box, and reduce the resonance. Cat litter and sand only reduce internal waves which are lower anyway. The worst effect I've experienced is anything that acts to absorb the sound from another driver. If you place a playing speaker on top of one that is not, the cone from the passive one will eat all of your low end. You have to turn the bottom one sideways or backward.

[HAL]

Or line the inner faces of the box with ceramic tile to stiffen the panels and glue them in place.  Probably less weight than sand or shot filling. 

[Folsom]

Or line the inner faces of the box with ceramic tile to stiffen the panels and glue them in place.  Probably less weight than sand or shot filling.

Cheaper than no rez. That and some midway glued in + shape (just two sticks)

[Outofthewoods]

You could get something like an acrylic tube to take up space in the middle of the column and fill the area around the tube with litter / sand.

Or make another box (MDF?) that fits within the columns and leaves 1-2" of gap on all sides. Fill the gap with sand, litter, lead shot etc..

Ruben