Super V ground up build - sharing the experience

Danny Richie · « **Reply #60 on:** 30 Jan 2012, 05:32 pm »

Quote from: MichaelHiFi on 30 Jan 2012, 05:01 pm

So I need to cut a piece of wood (2)that slides into the xover enclosure to build the xover on?

Yep.

Layout the parts per the picture posted and twist them all together. Then mark the spot for the through holes that you'll need for the zip ties... It will be easier than you think.

MichaelHiFi · « **Reply #61 on:** 2 Feb 2012, 02:08 pm »

The side panels and the cross brace are in the paint shop. The remaining pieces are a primer white. There's a lot of sanding to perform.

I choose a metallic copper from about a hundred samples. It's just impossible to know how it will look. That and the shop has never painted wood in automotive paint before

Now I'm researching non resonant material to mount the cross overs on. I'm looking to remove every bit of vibration I can that can reach the caps and coils. Otherwise, I use my bags of sand trick

Peter J · « **Reply #62 on:** 2 Feb 2012, 02:55 pm »

Quote from: MichaelHiFi on 30 Jan 2012, 04:01 pm

No doubt I'm performing more work than needed. I wanted to seal all bare wood area's before assembling. Just thought that would be good practice. I'm also hopeful for a perfectly smooth satin finish. I want the back side finish to look as nice at the front. But this priming is going to kill me.

Sounds like the primer is giving you fits. I'm wondering if it could be the primer you're using. You'd want primer to sand easily and do what's called powdering when sanding. IME good sanding qualities are almost always exclusive to solvent or oil base products.

Is the primer in the pic what you're using? I tried to find on Zinsser site, but either it goes by some other name or I'm just not seeing it. What do they reccomend for cleanup?

MichaelHiFi · « **Reply #63 on:** 2 Feb 2012, 03:31 pm »

Zinsser is a water based primer.

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=217

It seemed to get great reviews from folks who tested primers. What I found is that it tending to "build or clog" on my sandpaper. It may be due to not really allowing enough drying time, although it seems to dry insanely fast. When using a brush, which I did, the brush strokes seem to remain even after using 100 grit on a palm sander. As Danny mentioned, using a course finish paint will alleviate these issues, but I'm hopeful for a really smooth satin black finish. I'm giving my second coat of primer many days to set. I'll see how sanding goes tonight if I have time.

Peter J · « **Reply #64 on:** 2 Feb 2012, 05:10 pm »

Quote from: MichaelHiFi on 2 Feb 2012, 03:31 pm

Zinsser is a water based primer.

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=217

It seemed to get great reviews from folks who tested primers. What I found is that it tending to "build or clog" on my sandpaper. It may be due to not really allowing enough drying time, although it seems to dry insanely fast. When using a brush, which I did, the brush strokes seem to remain even after using 100 grit on a palm sander. As Danny mentioned, using a course finish paint will alleviate these issues, but I'm hopeful for a really smooth satin black finish. I'm giving my second coat of primer many days to set. I'll see how sanding goes tonight if I have time.

Thanks for the link...it's acrylic. Acrylic tends to form a "skin" and stays kind rubbery...hence your problems. Primers that are readily sandable will say so.

I doubt if you can switch gears at this point, but if starting from scratch I'd reccommend, in Zinsser products, either Cover Stain oil base (they also make a water base, IIRC) or B.I.N. which is pigmented shellac. Cover Stain will take a day or three to get sandable, BIN is much quicker, but stinks. They make BIN in spray cans or you could spray with your Iwata. You'll need denatured alcohol to clean up.

MichaelHiFi · « **Reply #65 on:** 2 Feb 2012, 08:23 pm »

Quote from: Peter J on 2 Feb 2012, 05:10 pm

Thanks for the link...it's acrylic. Acrylic tends to form a "skin" and stays kind rubbery...hence your problems. Primers that are readily sandable will say so.

I doubt if you can switch gears at this point, but if starting from scratch I'd reccommend, in Zinsser products, either Cover Stain oil base (they also make a water base, IIRC) or B.I.N. which is pigmented shellac. Cover Stain will take a day or three to get sandable, BIN is much quicker, but stinks. They make BIN in spray cans or you could spray with your Iwata. You'll need denatured alcohol to clean up.

I screwed up.

You're right on all points. This funny is not easy to sand. I wonder now if I can follow with a different product, but same product line? Or I can sand off the majority of primer and start over which sucks.

I found some pieces of phenolic here at work. I ordered some sorbothane isolation washers for the crossovers so I'm ready to build them up.

I've been thinking about the cross-over cabinets. They might look great colored the same as the sides and cross brace.

corndog71 · « **Reply #66 on:** 2 Feb 2012, 10:13 pm »

Quote from: MichaelHiFi on 2 Feb 2012, 08:23 pm

I've been thinking about the cross-over cabinets. They might look great colored the same as the sides and cross brace.

Santi did that in a great way.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=3999

MichaelHiFi · « **Reply #67 on:** 4 Feb 2012, 08:17 pm »

Update;

Sanding sanding and more sanding. I'm using an enamel primer now. I have rethought the satin black fish. What I'll try to do is paint the pedestals and x-over cabinets satin black. The rest of the pieces a more textured black.

I have an amp on the way

Having purchased a used Decware Torii Mk III with a compliment of 28 tubes, I'm excited and anxious to get the build finished. But no problem really as I've got the Decade's to try through the Decware. Wait, Decade - Decware a synergy perhaps

With the amp on the way I need to rethink my room and setup. The Decware is single ended. I was using balanced to my Pass. Now I need to reconfigure my reference home made cables to single ended use which means I need to purchase connectors.
My JL Audio Fathom (pictured on right) is no longer needed and is going for sale. I've tried to find an excuse to keep her but I couldn't convince my wife that we could use it in our HT setup. The Def Techs have built-in subs. She knows too much

In the corners of the rooms are bass traps andtowrads the middle of the back wall are acoustic panels (behind the drapes). The drapes are leaving to get replaced by....drapes. I have a bass trap along the wall in front of the JL and probably does nothing for room acoustices. I have another with no place to go.

Any suggestions?

MichaelHiFi · « **Reply #68 on:** 6 Feb 2012, 04:21 pm »

I'm laying out the cross over and using the pic from the V2 (cross over 101) to help guide me. Of course I have the Super V network with Jupiter cap diagram to wire by.

First problem.

No doubt the wiring is different than the V2. But I do show 5ea inductors in the signal paths.

On to painting - gingerly.

Progress is slow due to illness. It appears my little one has given me hand, foot and mouth disease. Rare for adults so lucky me. This virus is brutal

Feels like someone took a hammer to every one of my fingers, including the nails then added about 50ea blisters per. Ditto for feet!

Cheeseboy · « **Reply #69 on:** 6 Feb 2012, 05:10 pm »

Sorry to hear that you have child related Hoof N Mouth disease. Toddlers tend to share everything with thier parents.

I don't know if you will still need the Sub in this application. I'd like to hear the V1's with out it in the room. I'm still on the fence with a sub for my LS6 for 2 channel.

I would still go for a longer curtain rod and cover the front wall completly left to right. I would extend the curtain rod out enough so it doesn't show any bump or rumple from the corner bass traps. I would put a piece of Owens Corning 703 behind the curtain and behind each speaker. It looks like you have something there already.

SoCalWJS · « **Reply #70 on:** 6 Feb 2012, 05:22 pm »

Michael - there are a couple of threads a few pages back where there are some good photos of the Super V crossovers with Jupiter caps.

Couldn't find the one I was looking for, but if you read through this one and look at the pictures on page 2, it might help.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=100135.0

MichaelHiFi · « **Reply #71 on:** 6 Feb 2012, 10:01 pm »

Quote from: SoCalWJS on 6 Feb 2012, 05:22 pm

Michael - there are a couple of threads a few pages back where there are some good photos of the Super V crossovers with Jupiter caps.

Couldn't find the one I was looking for, but if you read through this one and look at the pictures on page 2, it might help.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=100135.0

Thanks SoCalWJS,

That might help. I was hopeful for a complete finished pic for the Super V. I've got mine laid out similarly as the V1 but I know it's not right. I thought I saw that pic too somewhere but I mist be confusing pics of other networks.

Still sanding - still painting. I used a textured black as a finish coat but don't like it. It's not even, it's rough, it'll catch every dust particle and you couldn't clean it. Just sprayed some matt clear on a textured piece just for giggles.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #72 on:** 6 Feb 2012, 10:06 pm »

Quote

That might help. I was hopeful for a complete finished pic for the Super V. I've got mine laid out similarly as the V1 but I know it's not right. I thought I saw that pic too somewhere but I mist be confusing pics of other networks.

In reply number 53 of this thread I posted a link to pics of completed crossovers for you.

Cheeseboy · « **Reply #73 on:** 6 Feb 2012, 10:26 pm »

I can't wait to hear these. I'll get the pizza this time.

MichaelHiFi · « **Reply #74 on:** 7 Feb 2012, 02:45 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 6 Feb 2012, 10:06 pm

In reply number 53 of this thread I posted a link to pics of completed crossovers for you.

Yes, thanks Danny, and it's the pic I'm looking at but I'm really working from your layout you sent me with the kit. I won't post the layout but maybe it's a spacial problem in the pic that is confusing me.

It the pic, it looks like the big inductor 3.6mH is bottom right. It can't be though according to your diagram. That big inductor should never see the Jupiter cap and it shouldn't be in the woofer circuit anyway. So me thinks that the 3.6 is standing tall at the back facing us. It just looks small in the pic

MichaelHiFi · « **Reply #75 on:** 7 Feb 2012, 03:43 pm »

Super V pieces strewn about the garage in various stages of getting their paint. I've settled on a textured black following by a clear gloss enamel. I'm working on a technique to get the texture to lay evenly. I think a final "mist" coat with the texture following by a few coats of clear gloss might work well.

Last night I had an idea. That cross brace that's in the body shop along with the side panels might see a different color. The side panels are going a deep metallic copper. It might look cool to have that cross piece a deep metallic red. They get their color today. It's not too late. Bad idea?

I like this layout.

Cheeseboy · « **Reply #76 on:** 7 Feb 2012, 04:06 pm »

You are making this look easy!

Danny Richie · « **Reply #77 on:** 8 Feb 2012, 04:08 am »

My vote would be for the all Copper look.

When you lay out the crossover parts go ahead and twist the parts together to make sure they all reach each other without having to insert any pieces of wire.

Cheeseboy · « **Reply #78 on:** 8 Feb 2012, 04:25 am »

I'll second that. The red really doesn't work for me. Tooled leather might.

PDR · « **Reply #79 on:** 8 Feb 2012, 04:46 am »

Micheal I also went with a textured look on my baffles, it was a lot of trial and error till I found the look I wanted. I also ended with a gloss coat over....well lets just say its a custom finish...

I have been very happy with the finish on the baffles....over the last few yrs it has stood up better than I expected.......pure luck on my part.

I think the copper will look fantastic on the black....good luck!
Happy building.

Perry