[Groundzero]

Well as the title implies, I'm new here. I got into headphone hi-fi about a year ago and picked up a really nice setup. However, having headphones that sound amazing and speakers that sound like crap didn't mix very well. Based on the recommendation of a good friend and Danny's reputation, I decided on some V-2s to fix my problem. Thanks to Danny's awesome packing everything got here today in one piece.



I have very soldering experience and even less with reading schematics. I figured a safe bet would be to practice on scrap wire, then assemble it based on the pictures in the Crossover assembly sticky. A problem I ran into is I'm left with a 4 ohm mills resistor. (the brown one on the bottom) I don't see it in the stickied thread or in Tyson's build thread, but it is mentioned on the schematic. I'm hoping someone can point out where it goes?



Oh, by the way my name is Kristian. I look forward to getting to know you all.

[Tyson]

Awesome man, welcome to the club!  I just finished my pair, check my other thread to see detailed pics of each step of the way....

[Guy 13]

Hi Kristian.
Welcome to Audio Circle.
You are at the right place.
You can get lots of help from experienced members, don't hesitate to ask.
I hope you won't follow the same route as I did with my V2, please stick to Danny's original schematics and recommendations, he sure knows what he's doing and what he sell
The V2 is a good choice I have two pairs of them, one complete and one as OB sub woofer only.
Have a nice day.
Guy 13
Note :
Did I saw in the corner of your room a Manfrotto tripod and gear head ?

[Groundzero]

Thanks Tyson, your build thread is a huge help. 

Guy 13, Yes it is a Manfrotto with a geared head. You have a sharp eye. Photography is my other main hobby aside from audio.

[Guy 13]

Thanks Tyson, your build thread is a huge help. 

Guy 13, Yes it is a Manfrotto with a geared head. You have a sharp eye. Photography is my other main hobby aside from audio.

Hi.
My main business is importation of professional photographic equipment and my eyes have been sharpened by 15 years of exclusive Manfrotto representarion for the whole Vietnam.



Audio and photography are my two hobbies.
Have fun with your new V2 kit.
Guy 13

[Danny Richie]

A problem I ran into is I'm left with a 4 ohm mills resistor.

And what is the value of that Black Mills resistor at the front of your tweeter network?

[Groundzero]

That's the black 30 ohm.

[Danny Richie]

That's the black 30 ohm.

The 4 ohm resistor goes where that black one is, and the 30 ohm resistor gets placed across the tweeter terminals.

[Groundzero]

The 4 ohm resistor goes where that black one is, and the 30 ohm resistor gets placed across the tweeter terminals.

Thanks!

[Groundzero]

Cut the wood for the SA-1 boxes today. They aren't glued or oiled yet, but here are some pics of them so far:

[Guy 13]

Cut the wood for the SA-1 boxes today. They aren't glued or oiled yet, but here are some pics of them so far:

Hi Groundzero.
I would like to know why you made those boxes so deep?
Thanks.
Guy 13

[Groundzero]

Hi Groundzero.
I would like to know why you made those boxes so deep?
Thanks.
Guy 13

Hi Guy,
Once I put the bottom in, a 3/4" piece of plywood, there will only be about 1/2" between the amp and the bottom. I'm not sure if the amp gets hot or not, so I wanted to leave a little room for it to breathe. I think the picture is making them look deeper than they actually are too.

[Guy 13]

Hi Guy,
Once I put the bottom in, a 3/4" piece of plywood, there will only be about 1/2" between the amp and the bottom. I'm not sure if the amp gets hot or not, so I wanted to leave a little room for it to breathe. I think the picture is making them look deeper than they actually are too.

Hi (Again) Groundzero.
I have been living and enjoying my SA-1 for some time now and with the Vietnamese ambiant temperature of 32C/90F+ in my living room, the top of the SA-1 get hot, but not to the point that you can't touch them, however, I can't leave my hand on it for too long.
My SA-1 boxes are 7" deep with a 3/4" bottom plate.
One think is sure, because the SA-1 does not have any cooling fins like the Rythmik A370PEQ of the V1 it get's hotter.
Of course, too big or too deep is no problem.
Guy 13

[Groundzero]

I picked up the flat pack from the wood shop today. I was going to do it myself but buying a router and circle cutting jig was actually more expensive than paying to have it done.


Also while I was there I also got the wood for the side panels. The shop only had Padauk in 4/4" or 8/4" so since Danny said thicker is better, I went with the 8/4". I had to dig into my savings for it, but I really love the color and grain. It'll look much more vibrant and have a richer color when I finish it.



More to come soon.

[Redefy Audio]

Hi kristian,

thats alot of nice looking wood.

where in the part of the world are u in? europe?

cheers
henry

[Groundzero]

Hello Henry,
I'm in the USA, Connecticut to be specific.

[sl_1800]

Look at that wood, I wish I had access to that at a local shop.  Those are going to look fantastic.

[Danny Richie]

I love Padauk!

[Tyson]

Looks very promising!  For best sound quality, I'd recommend getting some Teflon bypass caps for all the white caps in the crossover.  Three of the .01uf Sonicap Platinums or the Auri-T caps per speaker will work nicely.

[Groundzero]

Hey Danny,
A little quirk I found in your plans, the P-audio woofer doesn't actually fit in a 7.4" hole. I had the shop make it 188mm on the CNC which is something like .04mm larger than 7.4 inches, but I still had to go back with a sanding wheel and take off another 1/16" or so. Just thought I'd let you know.

Thanks Tyson,
I plan to bypass them eventually, but want to get used to them as-is first so I can appreciate the upgrade. Also contributing to the wait is the fact that I'm broke