[mlundy57]

I just found out last night the new computer's card reader doesn't support my camera's memory card. Went to BB to get a USB card reader got one but was thinking the wrong format so I have to go back later and get the right format.   

I'm ready to install the NoRez in the cabinets before gluing the front baffle on.

How much AcustaStuff should I put in each location?

Should it be glued in place or just laid in?

If it is laid in, how do you keep it from shifting when the speakers are moved?

Should the stuffing cover up the rear openings of the Brace B's?

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Hey Mike
I used an ounce behind the  top woofer and  tweeter.  Those 2 areas i did cover thje rear holes of brace B's and I did not glue  that  in, just made sure it was really  fluffed up and not compressed at all.  But the  stuff on the front/rear baffle I did use some spray adhesive to help  hold it in place 
Didn't weigh those lower pieces (below the lower brace B),  just used enough so that  they kind of matched  the  diagram on the plans  ,  judged it by   the   TL brace if that makes sense.

-jay

[mlundy57]

Jay,

Thanks. I got the same impression about having the fill out to the end of the brace. That looks like it leaves a straight channel down the center of the cabinet. If sound waves are like water and take the path of least resistance they would travel straight down that channel and out the port. Makes me wonder about the purpose of all those offset braces. But then my understanding of sound wave behavior is admittedly lacking.

Mike

[WireNut]

Mike, I like your builds. When in need, West Systems.....

[mlundy57]

I've been looking into West Systems but so far I haven't gotten up the nerve to try epoxy. I've never used epoxy for anything except for extremely small repair applications. 

I have a pair of AV-1 cabinets built up that I don't intend to build out so I may experiment with epoxy on them. But then I also have the two completely enclosed cabinets that I used for the rattle can and truck bed liner experiments I could sand those down and use them to experiment with epoxy. I think I'll do that and save the AV-1 cabinets though with the availability of the X-LS kits I can't see me building out the AV-1's.

How do you flow the epoxy smoothly over rounded edges and onto adjacent sides?  Also, how much resin and hardener would I need per coat for a pair of N1X cabinets (that's what the completely enclosed cabinets started out to be but ended up  too out of square to use).

Mike

[mlundy57]

I have some more pics ready.  I started working on the bases. first I glued up two pieces of 3/4" Baltic birch plywood to make the bases 1 1/2" thick. I don't have a vacuum bag or other type of press so I resorted to the block method. If I do this again I'll secure the pieces with a couple of screws in the waste area to prevent movement while the glue dries.  Even though the pieces were lined up after I placed the blocks, by the time the glue dried the pieces had shifted 1 1/2" in directions.



After the glue had dried I trimmed them into 24" x 24" squares. Then I taped craft paper to the bases and marked the center lines and tower position. then I lined one of the tower bottoms up on the base and marked where the threaded inserts would go.



Next I clamped the bottom to the base and drilled pilot holes through both pieces for the mounting bolts and inserts. Then I transferred the shape from the craft paper to the base.



The next step was to cut out the base. I did this on the band saw staying just outside the layout lines.



Then I used a Forestner bit to cut countersink holes on the bottom for the mounting bolts and washers.



Then I used a oscillating spindle sander to finish shaping and smoothing the edges up to the layout line.





After experimenting with different sizes of roundovers an champhers on scrap I decided to use a 3/8" roundover on both the top and bottom to soften the edges. This picture is of the bottom and shows the countersinks also.



Mike

[Danny Richie]

Looking good Mike! 

[mlundy57]

Thanks Danny

Jay,

Cheap bits from China aren't the only ones that have the bearing bolt get lose. I had one loosen up on an almost new Freud 3/8" roundover bit. Luckily no real damage done.

Mike

[Guy 13]

Hi mlundy57 and all Audio Circle members.
You definitely have wood working talent, which is definitely not my case.
Nice work, I am anxious to see the finish product.

Guy 13

[Captainhemo]

Hmm,  I imagine it can happen with any bit over time.  When that happened to me,  it was the first pass with a new bit, up till then  I had never  even  worried about it.  I always check them   before  use  now 

Glad the  bearing didn't come all the way off and  cause grief for you.   

There is guy on ebay (probably a few )   that  sells Fraud bits at pretty decent prices,  I've picked up a few from  him

Your bases are coming along  really  nice.  Think they are going to look very  sharp

-jay

[mlundy57]

Thanks Guy 13 and Jay.

I have made a little more progress. I got the bases stained and the threaded insets for the floor spikes installed.










I also got the second cabinet glued up



And the NoRez installed in both cabinets. The pieces on top are the ones that go on the front baffle.



That's all for now,

Mike

[Guy 13]

Hi Mike and all Audio Circle members.
I always liked well documented (Picture wise) audio projects.
I hope you will post pictures until your enclosures are completed
and resting in your living room or better, in your dedicated listening room.

Guy 13

[mlundy57]

Thanks Guy 13, I'll keep the photos coming. These are for the living room. My wife really liked the way the N1X's sounded and wanted me to make a pair for the living room except she wanted floor standing instead of bookshelf speakers. These are the beginning for replacing the 7.1 system in the living room. Next up for that system will be an N3S center channel.

Mike

[mlundy57]

Another N3 Question: when running the input wires from the crossover network to the tube connectors do you:
a)  run the wires around the Brace E   
b) drill a hole through the brace E    or
c) move the tube connectors higher up the back so they are above Brace E?

Thanks,

Mike

[Danny Richie]

Another N3 Question: when running the input wires from the crossover network to the tube connectors do you:
a)  run the wires around the Brace E   
b) drill a hole through the brace E    or
c) move the tube connectors higher up the back so they are above Brace E?

Thanks,

Mike

In the past I have run the wires around the brace because the cabinets have showed up here completed. If I were building the box myself I would be inclined to drill a few wire sized holes for the internal wiring to pass through that brace.

[mlundy57]

Looks like I did a big boo-boo. Apparently I should have attached the lower two pieces of NoRez to the front baffles before I glued the baffles on. I thought I would be able to work my hand around the TL braces to stick these pieces of NoRez on but there is no way I can get my hand in.  I was able to get the bottom pieces in through the port openings. It is the piece below the bottom woofer, between braces D and F that is giving me the problem.

How much of a problem/detriment is not having these two pieces of NoRez on the front baffles going to be?  If not having them is going to make a big difference in the performance of the speakers I am going to have to open the cabinets up to install them then try and figure out how to close the cabinets back up without compromising the integrity of the box.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Mike
Sorry to hear  about the  issue with the no rez.. I can well imagine  how it would be really tough getting your had around the TL brraces to fit those pieces in.  Not sure how muchj  of a difference  leaving those 2 pieces will make.  Those areas aren't "too" big as the  spcing between the braces ges  quite small as you get lower in the cabinet .  You'll need  to get an answer from danny on  that one.

I'd imagine it is also going to be tough to feed the input wires around  the brace  and out the  holes for the  tube connectors,  might have to fish something up  from the holes and tie the wires to it  before pulling it back out ?
With my cross overs  not fitting inthe space  in the back of the N3 I had to make a reovable rear panel so I was able to attach both the c/o oard and the tube connectors  to the panel

I like Danny's suggestion of  the holes in the brace for the input wires ,  just not sure you'll be able to  still get a drill in there ?

-jay

[mlundy57]

Jay,

Thanks. I managed to get the pieces in. It took two sore arms (I could only get my arms in a little past the elbows, the openings were too small for me to get them in any farther), doing my best imitation of a contortionist, using an 8" piece of 1"x4" with the edges rounded off as a push stick and a fair amount of frustration to get them in but they are.

This exercise with the NoRez got me thinking the same thing about fishing the input wires.  With only two small openings for the tube connectors I don't think I'll be able to line up holes through the brace so I will probably have to run the wires around the brace.  I plan to use pieces of 12ga house wiring (romex) as a fish tape. That way I can solder the ends together then pull the wires out through the tube connector holes.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Did you get your wife to snap some pics  of  the contortionist at work 
I'd have been worried about getting my arm stuck
Glad yo managed to get those pieces in anyhow

Using the 12awg wire as a "tape"  to pull the input wires out the  tube connector holes should work well

-jay

[mlundy57]

Did you get your wife to snap some pics  of  the contortionist at work 
-jay

Nah, she'd rather not listen to me discuss the situation with the cabinets 

Mike