[mr_bill]

Avionic - will you please let us know what Tom says about the TI versus IR amps and if one is brighter sounding than the other (or conversely, one is more softer or rolled off sounding)  I want to avoid the softer, rolled off.

Hey Steve I shot you a P.M.
  Some people have said that the TI chip amps sound a little brighter than the IR amps. I couldn't say as I only have the IR based amp.
  Shadowlight you can get a pre made case for about $50.00 and the rest of the parts that you need will probably be another $50.00. Of course you could spend a lot more depending on how exotic you want to get with wiring and such. Ebay is a good source. As is parts express or parts conexxion and many others.

[santacore]

Here's a quote I received from Tom:

All of our amps are very clean and detailed, but in my opinion, our IR based amps are the smoothest sounding

[shadowlight]

Thanks to everyone who responded to my question.  I am going to reach out to Tom and see what he recommends as amp that will drive the AV123 LS6 which are 91db or around there efficient.

[Mariusz]

Hi guys.

Just pulled the plug on 250W X 2 500W X 1 Amp + Power Supply + Transformer (kit).
This should be plenty for my new 88db drivers. oh yeah - total paid = just under $200 shipped with promo code ACircle.

Cheers
Mariusz

[Mr Content]

sounds great, I will have to look into them myself. 

Mr C

[earplay]

Enough with the ordering, already! Let's hear about the tweaks and upgrades. 

I'll pass this along from the diyaudio forum. The author is referring specifically to the 250W ClassD amp w/ IR chip. There seems to be an error in the initial reference to the cap value, but it is clarified later:

One last recommendation for this amp: I highly, highly, highly recommend replacing the 2 .47 uf .1 uf Epcos and output filter caps (the big blue caps). I have replaced mine with the well-regarded Dayton film / foil bypass caps. Cost: $ 5. I no longer need the buffer. All the issues with this amp that I believed needed to be corrected by the buffer or preamp are now gone.

Parts-Express.com:*Dayton DFFC-0.47 0.47uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor | polypropylene capacitor polypropylene PAC PA low pass foil film and foil dayton capacitor caps cap ac 47uf .47uf

[Mariusz]

Enough with the ordering, already! Let's hear about the tweaks and upgrades.

You are playing with yours but rest of us are just exited. 

And thanks for the tip.

Have you compare it to other amps?  If so, what did you find?

And....... does anyone knows if it can run on batteries?


Thanks

Mariusz

[jtwrace]

And....... does anyone knows if it can run on batteries?


Thanks

Mariusz

That would be awesome!

[Mariusz]

That would be awesome!

I think it can be done.
(I will ask around  - just wonder how long will reasonable stock of batteries
make this efficient amp sing? Guessing - 6h - 8h would work for most of us.)

Mariusz
 

[jtwrace]

I think it can be done.
(I will ask around  - just wonder how long will reasonable stock of batteries
make this efficient amp sing? Guessing - 6h - 8h would work for most of us.)

Mariusz

My Dodd Audio Tube Buffer is off the grid.  I have a 28ah battery which will last 22 hrs without going below 11VDC.

[Mariusz]

My Dodd Audio Tube Buffer is off the grid.  I have a 28ah battery which will last 22 hrs without going below 11VDC.

I am thinking about Dodd's mini amp in the future (will wait for integrated version).
Grid in N.Y really sucks and can be annoying .... especially with high efficiency speakers. 

Also wonder if getting it off the grid is a worthy idea?? ($ v.s SQ)

best
Mariusz

[earplay]

I am NOT playing with mine! My hands are not even down my pants.

I don't have a ClassD amp yet. 

I don't see why it shouldn't run off a battery. By the way, there is the trick of installing a cap across the power feeds between the SMPS and the amp. I actually preferred this to battery operation on my T amps. Of course, I had already invested in the batteries. 

[firedog]

I'd be especially interested if anyone can actually compare the sound of these amps to other Class D amps, as they are orders of magnitude cheaper than a "finished" product.

Wyred4Sound and Bel Canto come to mind as direct competitors - based on ICE module. Wyred4Sound positions itself as a "value" alternative, so a comparison to it would be most interesting.

[jtwrace]

I'd be especially interested if anyone can actually compare the sound of these amps to other Class D amps, as they are orders of magnitude cheaper than a "finished" product.

I agree.  Nuforce??

[steve k]

I've heard the Class D compared to Bel Canto monoblocks and I much prefered the Class D amp. The midrange and highs were much more emotional and involving (more tubelike and three dimensional) than the Bel Cantos which had great bass slam but were too dry for my tastes on the mids and the highs.
steve

[Nick77]

Enough with the ordering, already! Let's hear about the tweaks and upgrades. 

I'll pass this along from the diyaudio forum. The author is referring specifically to the 250W ClassD amp w/ IR chip. There seems to be an error in the initial reference to the cap value, but it is clarified later:

One last recommendation for this amp: I highly, highly, highly recommend replacing the 2 .47 uf .1 uf Epcos and output filter caps (the big blue caps). I have replaced mine with the well-regarded Dayton film / foil bypass caps. Cost: $ 5. I no longer need the buffer. All the issues with this amp that I believed needed to be corrected by the buffer or preamp are now gone.

Parts-Express.com:*Dayton DFFC-0.47 0.47uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor | polypropylene capacitor polypropylene PAC PA low pass foil film and foil dayton capacitor caps cap ac 47uf .47uf

I grabed these photos from a guy over at diy and he said it was a real pita swapping the caps as i suspected. My soldering skills were tested by just getting this up and running. Its a small board to work on and the sound i have now is pretty amazing. I might wait for a few more reports till i jump on this.

[earplay]

Hmmmm... interesting pics.

My notion was to replace the big blue caps, but this wasn't done in these pics.

I'm dizzled about what I am seeing... but, what's new.

Don't those Vitamin Q's resemble Russian mil teflon caps?

[pjchappy]

OK, sorry if this has been posted already. . .I've read through most posts, but may have glanced over this.

If I am going to build this, I need:

1.  A case
2.  Wire (approximately how much?)
3.  Binding posts
4.  Power cable w/ amp and wall connections

Is construction this simple?

1. Connect / solder the transformer, PS and amp via wires (transformer via its own wires)
2. Connect / solder binding posts and power cable

Anything else?  What's a good source for these?  Getting everything at one place would be great.

Thanks!


Paul

[JakeJ]

Hi Paul,

I haven't built one yet myself but if you look at the pictures Steve posted in the op you'll see all you need is a small screwdriver to connect the wires from tranny to PS module and that to the amp module and then to the speakers.  Probably the only soldering you might have to do is the mains inlet (if you decide to go with an IEC connector) which is recommended as you can find them with a built in fuse holder.  OK, and the speaker binding posts.  I will likely pull off the board mounted RCA connectors and use good quality chassis mount RCAs.

After I get the taxes and a refi of my home out of the way I'm gettin' one of 'em!

Hope this helps,
Jake

[Steidl Guitars]

1.  A case

You don't need a case, but it's a good idea.  Several possibilities were offered earlier in the thread.  This seems like a nice option:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250501444095

2.  Wire (approximately how much?)

You need only a few feet of 12-14 gauge to wire the power side of the amp, then something to run from the amp module to the binding posts.  I plan to use 15 gauge stranded there because I have it lying around. 

If you get the input mounted on the board (which is the default), you don't have to wire those.  I opted to mount inputs on the chassis.  For that, using wire approximating IC wire (18-22 gauge) seems pretty standard.

3.  Binding posts

Yep, unless you want to run speaker wires directly from the amp.  Lots of options and every place carries some.  I bought Vampire. 

4.  Power cable w/ amp and wall connections

Not necessary, but most buy a female IEC connector and mount that to the chassis, plus a fuse holder. 

Is construction this simple?

Looks like! 

What's a good source for these? 

Lots of options.  I ordered from Parts Express and Sonic Craft.  PE is a good group, but they always seem to be out of 1/2 the crap I need.  It's a good place to start.