[roymail]

Has anyone compared the B1 buffered pre to a quality non-buffered passive?  Since both are passive and have no gain, I suspect the B1 provides drive and dynamics that a non-buffered passive can't produce, at least not as well.

[exojam]

It's just easier to drill a hole and attach. 

That was my thought when I saw the picture of it.

James

[Jon L]

Has anyone compared the B1 buffered pre to a quality non-buffered passive? 

BTW, anyone have any good ideas how to label RCA jacks, etc, cheaply yet not too ugly? 

Anyway, I have been comparing my B1 with Jentzen Superior Z caps and Alps Blue Velvet  to highly modded grounded grid, EVS ultimate attenuators, and source-direct (digital volume attenuator), and while B-1 definitely provides better bass dynamics and punch compared to direct or passive, there is some cost in terms of pure transparency in mid/highs, not surprising given the large caps, resistors, wires, pot, buffer, etc, that the signal must go through..

[wushuliu]

I just ordered the high current version of the same jack:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CP-037AH-ND

I haven't tried it out yet though.

You can also find panel/chassis mountable jacks at Radio Shack. Much easier to deal with.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102486

[Nick77]

BTW, anyone have any good ideas how to label RCA jacks, etc, cheaply yet not too ugly? 

Anyway, I have been comparing my B1 with Jentzen Superior Z caps and Alps Blue Velvet  to highly modded grounded grid, EVS ultimate attenuators, and source-direct (digital volume attenuator), and while B-1 definitely provides better bass dynamics and punch compared to direct or passive, there is some cost in terms of pure transparency in mid/highs, not surprising given the large caps, resistors, wires, pot, buffer, etc, that the signal must go through..

Jon i cant deny your fault with the design but i cant help but wonder if you had a 4 pack of naked Visays in the signal path if you would have the same conclusion.

I have certainly gotten some transparency i was looking for with premium resistors.

[Jon L]

Jon i cant deny your fault with the design but i cant help but wonder if you had a 4 pack of naked Visays in the signal path if you would have the same conclusion.

I have certainly gotten some transparency i was looking for with premium resistors.

I will get to the naked Vishays (perhaps others) eventually, but don't get me wrong.  B-1 is as transparent of a preamp as I have ever heard really, except maybe for McCormack VRE-1 J-Fet buffered preamp. Many high $$$ big-name active preamps, especially ones with many tubes, would sound quite additively colored in comparison.   

But what I'm doing is, instead of my DAC driving the system directly, inserting another set of interconnects (same as others in system), another preamp (B-1), as well as another power cord.  I would actually be stupefied if the preamp setup sounded just as transparent 

[Nick77]

I will get to the naked Vishays (perhaps others) eventually, but don't get me wrong.  B-1 is as transparent of a preamp as I have ever heard really, except maybe for McCormack VRE-1 J-Fet buffered preamp. Many high $$$ big-name active preamps, especially ones with many tubes, would sound quite additively colored in comparison.   

But what I'm doing is, instead of my DAC driving the system directly, inserting another set of interconnects (same as others in system), another preamp (B-1), as well as another power cord.  I would actually be stupefied if the preamp setup sounded just as transparent 

Gotcha! I am certainly with ya on the bass and dynamics, they are off the charts. 

I would sure like to hear your's with those caps. 

[wushuliu]

BTW, anyone have any good ideas how to label RCA jacks, etc, cheaply yet not too ugly? 

Anyway, I have been comparing my B1 with Jentzen Superior Z caps and Alps Blue Velvet  to highly modded grounded grid, EVS ultimate attenuators, and source-direct (digital volume attenuator), and while B-1 definitely provides better bass dynamics and punch compared to direct or passive, there is some cost in terms of pure transparency in mid/highs, not surprising given the large caps, resistors, wires, pot, buffer, etc, that the signal must go through..

Hi Jon, one suggestion if you have not already tried is to replace the Blue Velvet w/ the gigawork SMT 20k attenuator mentioned in the BOM. They are $10 on ebay, seller is Gigawork, and are very popular. They are much more transparent than the Blue Velvet I had and general consensus is that they are very high value. I've had occasion to switch back and forth between the two and the Gigawork is very, very clean and clear particularly in the mids and up. No contest.

http://cgi.ebay.com/DACT-Type-21-Stepped-Attenuator-20K-PASS-B1-DIY-/120502791204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

As for the ultimate transparency denied by all the caps, well, that's what the DCB1 is for!

[Jon L]

Hi Jon, one suggestion if you have not already tried is to replace the Blue Velvet w/ the gigawork SMT 20k attenuator mentioned in the BOM. They are $10 on ebay, seller is Gigawork, and are very popular. They are much more transparent than the Blue Velvet I had and general consensus is that they are very high value. I've had occasion to switch back and forth between the two and the Gigawork is very, very clean and clear particularly in the mids and up. No contest.

http://cgi.ebay.com/DACT-Type-21-Stepped-Attenuator-20K-PASS-B1-DIY-/120502791204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

As for the ultimate transparency denied by all the caps, well, that's what the DCB1 is for!

Yes, I hope to try a DCB1 at some point, also LDR.  Preamp is the bane of many audiophiles these days it seems. 

I've seen those ebay attenuators before and sure looks good.  It actually looks good enough to go in my Almarro, actually..

For B-1, my system gain is such that I actually can bypass the volume pot and not use too much digital attentuation.  I'll try that next I think.

[roymail]

Wushuliu, I read somewhere that the stock PEC attenuators sounded better than the Alps.  What did you think?

No doubt a SMT stepped attenutor would sound much better.

[parodielin]

I used the pot too.  I have Blue Velvet too.  The resistance of both channels on my blue velvet is not exactly the same, which created a shifted image problem for me.  The Gigawork pot, measured exactly 50K on both channels, and that's what I use right now.  I care less to compare the sound quality but to me, the shifted image is a bigger issue.

Hi Jon, one suggestion if you have not already tried is to replace the Blue Velvet w/ the gigawork SMT 20k attenuator mentioned in the BOM. They are $10 on ebay, seller is Gigawork, and are very popular. They are much more transparent than the Blue Velvet I had and general consensus is that they are very high value. I've had occasion to switch back and forth between the two and the Gigawork is very, very clean and clear particularly in the mids and up. No contest.

http://cgi.ebay.com/DACT-Type-21-Stepped-Attenuator-20K-PASS-B1-DIY-/120502791204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

As for the ultimate transparency denied by all the caps, well, that's what the DCB1 is for!

[wushuliu]

Wushuliu, I read somewhere that the stock PEC attenuators sounded better than the Alps.  What did you think?

No doubt a SMT stepped attenutor would sound much better.

I haven't heard the mono PECs except briefly when building the tutorial version. I prefer a stereo pot. Got enough buttons and knobs to push/pull/turn/break!

[exojam]

All right, I have ordered the resistors Nick mentioned (will not ship till the 19th though) and the jack that Roymail pointed me to. I should be up and running within a week hopefully. Just in time for me to go back in and put in the new resistors.

James

[Nick77]

All right, I have ordered the resistors Nick mentioned (will not ship till the 19th though) and the jack that Roymail pointed me to. I should be up and running within a week hopefully. Just in time for me to go back in and put in the new resistors.

James

Nice work, what caps will you be running?

[exojam]

Nick,

I will be using Clarity ESA's.

James

[walkern]

Has anyone compared the B1 buffered pre to a quality non-buffered passive?  Since both are passive and have no gain, I suspect the B1 provides drive and dynamics that a non-buffered passive can't produce, at least not as well.

I've replaced a Promitheus TVC with a standard issue battery powered B1 (and I have a DCB1 that I'm beginning to build) and here are the differences I noticed as a result of the change:
1) The B1 has better dynamics, both micro and macro.  Subtle changes in volume as well as large ones are more effortlessly communicated by the B1.
2) The overall imaging of both units were quite comparable.  Both seem capable of rendering nice depth, width, (occasionally height) and a 3D character to instruments and groups and vocalists.
3) Background noise level is also comparable.  I expected the B1 to have a little residual hiss or hum, but it is dead quiet, as was the TVC.
4) The B1 has better bass extension, power, authority, and definition.  The TVC sounds ever so slightly softer with less oomph in the mid and deepest bass areas, and also with slight less transient snap or speed (the leading whack of a bass drum for example).
5) The mids on my B1 are a little recessed compared to the TVC.  This works well with some recordings, and not so well with others.  Not sure which I prefer here.
6) The treble range (particularly after shifting to battery power) seems a little cleaner and clearer on the B1 (cymbals sound more realistic... less like white noise).  This difference is quite small.

Hope this helps.

Neil

[roymail]

Neil, thanks for that comparison.  I'm sure it will be helpful to many readers of this thread.  Much appreciated. 

And, please keep us updated on your DCB1 project.

[walkern]

Actually, I was kind of hoping someone here with more E.E. or tech skills would do a "step by step" build tutorial for the latest DCB1 Blue Board.  It has lots of options for various components, and has lots of stuff on it that I'm not familiar with.  I had no trouble with my Nelson Pass board assembly thanks to all the help and support earlier in this thread.

Anyone else committed to a DCB1 who'd be willing to take photos along the way, and offer up advice for folks who (for example) don't know which side of a diode is + and which is the -?

Neil

[wushuliu]

Actually, I was kind of hoping someone here with more E.E. or tech skills would do a "step by step" build tutorial for the latest DCB1 Blue Board.  It has lots of options for various components, and has lots of stuff on it that I'm not familiar with.  I had no trouble with my Nelson Pass board assembly thanks to all the help and support earlier in this thread.

Anyone else committed to a DCB1 who'd be willing to take photos along the way, and offer up advice for folks who (for example) don't know which side of a diode is + and which is the -?

Neil

Actually the board has directional markings to match the diodes, so you'll be fine 

If no one steps up to the plate, we'll walk you through it. It seems more complicated than it is.

[poseidonsvoice]

I just ordered a pair of DCB1's. I'm trying to build a balanced/differential version, and I like the fact that it is direct coupled and shunt regulated, which has advantages over cap coupling seen in the standard B1. I'm most likely going to be using some uber quality resistors with this one, like the naked Vishays for example. I'm aiming for extreme neutrality, whatever that means! Mundorf Electrolytics, etc...

I'll keep my eyes peeled for any pics on this forum...

Anand.