Mono chassis $49 + shipping

James Romeyn · « **Reply #40 on:** 15 May 2012, 10:12 pm »

Quote from: *Scotty* on 15 May 2012, 10:08 pm

...Non-conductive solder is also known as hot melt glue...

Stop...you're killing me.

Rclark · « **Reply #41 on:** 15 May 2012, 10:15 pm »

No, now I'm determined to build them out myself. I'll find other resources to help me through it, thanks. James if you'd like to include me in the group buy, great, if not, great.

Thanks everyone.

sts9fan · « **Reply #42 on:** 15 May 2012, 10:19 pm »

Remember, the smoke is magic...

JDUBS · « **Reply #43 on:** 15 May 2012, 10:44 pm »

Wow, this thread has taken a turn...for the funny!

-Jim

OzarkTom · « **Reply #44 on:** 15 May 2012, 10:52 pm »

Does he have black front faceplates too?

jtwrace · « **Reply #45 on:** 15 May 2012, 11:08 pm »

Quote from: OzarkTom on 15 May 2012, 10:52 pm

Does he have black front faceplates too?

He does have them available now. When I asked for my last pair he didn't so I made my own...

Let's please stay on topic for the OP.

OzarkTom · « **Reply #46 on:** 15 May 2012, 11:13 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 15 May 2012, 11:08 pm

He does have them available now. When I asked for my last pair he didn't so I made my own...

Let's please stay on topic for the OP.

This is not on topic for asking for black faceplates?

jtwrace · « **Reply #47 on:** 15 May 2012, 11:14 pm »

Quote from: OzarkTom on 15 May 2012, 11:13 pm

This is not on topic for asking for black faceplates?

Yes, you're fine.

Big Red Machine · « **Reply #48 on:** 15 May 2012, 11:15 pm »

These folks have some less expensive options. I have used them and they will do some slight mods if you request them.

All Aluminum 3 Space Rack Box 10" Deep | eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Aluminum-3-Space-Rack-Box-10-Deep-/260898689385?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbec61169

check their store for other sizes

OzarkTom · « **Reply #49 on:** 15 May 2012, 11:18 pm »

I will take two with the black front faceplates.

I don't need an off/on switch, but for those that want one with an LED light too, this one seems very nice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HiFi-Audio-DIY-Aluminum-Chassis-Aluminum-Case-B-/190673312049?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6503d931

Internal Siza: W 175 mm x H 63 mm x D 320 mm

HT cOz · « **Reply #50 on:** 16 May 2012, 12:15 am »

Quote from: Rclark on 15 May 2012, 10:15 pm

No, now I'm determined to build them out myself. I'll find other resources to help me through it, thanks. James if you'd like to include me in the group buy, great, if not, great.

Thanks everyone.

I get that people want to learn and everyone starts somewhere. Here are some tips to consider:

1). Reach out to experienced builders in your area. People into DIY audio, radio, electric guitar etc. These people are generally pretty friendly and will help review your work.
2). If you are uncomfortable with that approach find an electronics repair shop. Tell them that you have a project that you have built and want a safety review prior to power up. They might charge $50??? Well worth it when you consider how much you have invested and that you are working with a device that can harm.
3). Practice soldering prior to working on your expensive new amp. Here is an example http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-SP3B-Practical-Soldering-Project/dp/B0002LUALG/ref=pd_sim_t_7 Pick up a book to go with it http://www.amazon.com/Make-Electronics-Discovery-Charles-Platt/dp/0596153740/ref=pd_sim_t_6
4). Hire someone to build it for you if these first 3 points don't appeal to you. What is the incremental cost 10% of project total?
5). If you are new to this do not power it on until a qualified person has reviewed your work
6). Be careful poking around the thing, treat every cap as fully charged etc

Seeing that the demand for these amps is high and that the retail versions are going to be stratospherically high in cost, many will want to make a go at it. This is doable if you use common sense and have a plan... otherwise how does that go a failure to plan is a plan to fail????

Robert

Rclark · « **Reply #51 on:** 16 May 2012, 12:52 am »

Awesome, thanks Robert.

James Romeyn · « **Reply #52 on:** 16 May 2012, 02:31 am »

deleted, irrelevent

James Romeyn · « **Reply #53 on:** 16 May 2012, 09:55 pm »

Quote from: Rclark on 15 May 2012, 10:15 pm

No, now I'm determined to build them out myself. I'll find other resources to help me through it, thanks. James if you'd like to include me in the group buy, great, if not, great.

Thanks everyone.

You're in, no problem.

TrungT · « **Reply #54 on:** 16 May 2012, 10:04 pm »

If CNC in-use, size and sharp won't matter.

*Scotty* · « **Reply #55 on:** 16 May 2012, 10:33 pm »

Quote

Does 20A IEC receptacle exist?

Yes.
Check Mouser or Digi-Key
Scotty

James Romeyn · « **Reply #56 on:** 16 May 2012, 11:51 pm »

deleted, irrelevent

jtwrace · « **Reply #57 on:** 16 May 2012, 11:58 pm »

Quote from: James Romeyn on 16 May 2012, 11:51 pm

So your layout is similar to TomS'? I'm looking at it now and if such layout fits, it seems better for the PS to orient lengthwise front to back rather than turned 90 degrees as per Toms. I'm still looking at it though.

The prime reason I'm wanting the holes pre cut is I'm building six of these suckers, 3 for me, 3 for a Marine aviator to whom I owe a ton of favors.

TomS actually saw my build before he built his. The SMPS will not go lengthwise and also incorporate the NC400 module in that siliconray chassis.

James Romeyn · « **Reply #58 on:** 17 May 2012, 12:35 am »

deleted, irrelevent

jtwrace · « **Reply #59 on:** 17 May 2012, 12:49 am »

Quote from: James Romeyn on 17 May 2012, 12:35 am

Sorry for so many questions...what prevents the 140mm ps from fitting in the 217mm length chassis? (RE2207)

The issue you will have is the wiring layout. Bruno is very specific about not running the wires under or over the modules and keeping the input wiring away from the power. I don't have my model near me but I think it would be hard to do otherwise in that chassis.