Salis Audio, I wish I could afford a power conditioner, no money at all. A lot of power conditioner out there. What makes yours stand out or compete for the money? I wish you success in any case. Look forward to hearing about your tour when it is over. You gotta have a website or a blog.
Stand out? Well I'm doing anything overally fancy, because fact is the goal is to remove noise, not make a gimmick.
I actually believe that while my product isn't cheap (although I make ones on a spectrum of prices), you get an awful lot of quality product compared to some other units. There simply is much more noise attenuation than some products.
But what I also do is build a very robust product. I don't skimp out on the details. For example the leads I use for connecting wire to bus bar are made of copper, but not only that they are the heavy duty fire rated version. They're actually difficult to even crimp onto the wire because they are so robust. I don't use weak, cheap connectors, that ultimately can inhibit peak current (even thought technically they are rated more than high enough). My bus bar is rated much, much, higher than you need; but it allows more compression. It's very easy for electricity to flow at any peak current your stereo could ever exert on it. Think of it all as an attempt to use the right pieces with enough compression (and sometimes soldering in conjunction) to make your devices behave as if a solid cord were connected to it and all the way back to the AC receptacle (which hopefully you've upgraded) so there is no weak spots in the chain. (I've seen people solder everything in the path before, claiming good results, but in this case compression comes first for safety)
The result is a very dynamic, controlled sound. It won't ever hold your stereo back, it won't give you that feeling that you need some more umph, some more impact. The effect on the bass frequencies has been mentioned as being very pleasurably powerful, while retaining definition.
But components must be properly matched to the sockets on my power condition units, that are designated for different current loads. This is because more noise attenuation can be had for smaller devices, with parts that are not suitable for larger devices. This is something generally most others have not done. I much prefer the extra step, as the results are very nice for attributes like imaging focus. The best part is currently you can custom order however many sockets at whatever purpose you want! I'll dig up specifications if you are unsure, or help teach you how to determine them.
It's largely all about doing the same thing with power conditioning (noise attenuation), but there are a few right and wrong ways to do an assortment of things! Like for me I much prefer that my stereo have the speed, immediacy, and impact that a passive unit can offer (which mine happens to be). Yet with enough attenuation the ease of listening, the lack of fatigue, is what keeps me able to listen. I'm not easy to please, so what I make isn't going to be a mediocre product since I use it myself. My friends think I'm nuts because almost everything sounds horrible to me without good power conditioning. Got $50k worth of gear? That's cool but not if I don't intend on sitting in front of it for more than 10 minutes because the grit, the edge, that comes from unconditioned power is there... In fact I prefer a cheaper stereo with power conditioning, for pleasure of listening, to a more talented one that doesn't have pleasurable ease of listening.
