[AlexH]

Beautiful work!  did you set in your network up before gluing the base?  Is the base removable?  I am concerned about having to get to the network once the base is glued into place.

Tony

The base is removable and that is where the crossover is located. I knew I was going to upgrade the crossover in the future. Matter of fact I received my order from Danny today to do the upgrades.

[Tlesnau@me.com]

Are you saying that you DID NOT glue the frame down to the base?  It just sets on the base, the weight makes it secure enough so that you don’t worry about tipping?  I lip around the base where the network is placed is only 3/4”.  Did you make your base thicker?
I would appreciate your comments...

Tony

[AlexH]

My base is 1 1/2" and I used a very coarse threaded screw to attach it to the speaker. I do not have a picture of the base after it was finished but here is one as I was making it.




I then attached another 3/4 piece on top of the base that fit tightly into the bottom of the speaker and this is where my crossover it attached. The screws run thought the base up into the side walls of the speaker.

Does that make sense?

[mlundy57]

Instead of screws I put threaded inserts in the corners of the cabinets then bolt the base on. I make the base 1-1/2” thick so I can counter bore the holes so the heads of the bolts are recessed. With the inserts you can take the bases on and off whenever you need to. MDF isn’t fond of having screws removed and replaced very many times.

[AlexH]

I spent 16 years as a finish carpenter and the one thing I learned was everyone has their preferred way. My self I always seem to have problems with inserts into mdf. When they don't hold its a mess. I usually do not take my speakers apart once finished. But that is just me.

[Ccook1065]

These look Amazing! I hope mine turn out as well.  I am building a pair now and would really benefit from a picture of the crossover. I want to make sure I get the most efficient layout and translating an electrical drawing to real life is not as easy as I had hoped. If anyone has a photo of their crossover build, that would be a great help.

[AlexH]

Thanks. I have really enjoyed these a lot. I bought these when the crossover was already done on a printed circuit board, so I am afraid pics of mine will not help you. 

[BikeFi10]

Alex, 1st off, amazing Xstatic cabinets. I'm looking to build them too, but have many questions even though I have the drawings from GR Research. I'm hoping you or someone here can help out.

The following questions are in regard to the drawing notes.
1. What does 1/2" to 3/4" radius on back side of woofers hole mean? Page 1.
2. What is the thru hole diameter for tweeter without the terminial clearence? 3.93" - ____? Page 1
3. How wide does notch need to be for tweeter terminals? page 1
4. Top 3 driver's wires need to pass thru panel A. Do I drill any random hole for that? Page 2
5. On B boards can holes centers be exact center or do they need to be slighly offset as per drawing? Page 3
6. Would it be advisable to make screw on side panels or lower part of front panel for future XO access? Page 2
Sorry for question overload, but I dont want start project and get stalled.

Thanks, BikeFi10

[BikeFi10]

Please disregard question 6. I see Alex made base removeable for XO access.

[corndog71]

I can answer #1.  It means the rear side of each midrange / woofer hole should be rounded.  This can be done with a router.  Doing this relieves some of the rear wave pressure generated by the driver.

[subsonic1050]

Refer to my build on the X-Statik for answers to some questions like the routing of wires between upper drivers.

https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=177397.0

1.) Corndog already said it - but use a router bit with a guide bearing and a 1/2" or 3/4" roundover on the back side of all the woofer holes.

2.) The THROUGH hole diameter is 3.125" the recess diameter is 3.93"

3.) The notch for the terminals is not specified nor is it crucial. Basically the terminals just need to fit. My notch was 1.6" wide and extended about .1" below where the bottom of the circular cutout would be. Again, this dimension is not critical.

4.) Refer to my thread - an angled 3/8" hole is easy to drill with a long drill bit.

5.) Not sure what you mean by this question

6.) I made my base removable - you can see that in my thread also.

[AlexH]

Alex, 1st off, amazing Xstatic cabinets. I'm looking to build them too, but have many questions even though I have the drawings from GR Research. I'm hoping you or someone here can help out.

The following questions are in regard to the drawing notes.
1. What does 1/2" to 3/4" radius on back side of woofers hole mean? Page 1.
2. What is the thru hole diameter for tweeter without the terminial clearence? 3.93" - ____? Page 1
3. How wide does notch need to be for tweeter terminals? page 1
4. Top 3 driver's wires need to pass thru panel A. Do I drill any random hole for that? Page 2
5. On B boards can holes centers be exact center or do they need to be slighly offset as per drawing? Page 3
6. Would it be advisable to make screw on side panels or lower part of front panel for future XO access? Page 2
Sorry for question overload, but I dont want start project and get stalled.

Thanks, BikeFi10

Thanks for the complements.

Looks like corndog and subsonic covered it all.

[BikeFi10]

 
Yes, after I sent questions I kind of figure the rear holes were to have rounded edges.

My GR drawing shows 3.125" from the bottom of terminal clearence notch to top of tweeter hole, but I'll go with 3.125" for through hole and notch enough to get terminals through as suggested.

Wow, Corndog71s rear panel looks pure professional. I didnt think of drilling angled down through the baffle.

I see the confusion on question 5, ME. I figured it out.

Thanks everyone who contributed answers.

[shocky111]

These look amazing

[AlexH]

Thanks I am still loving these. My friend can't believe how good they sound.