[irishpatrick33]

However, the use of glue is quite acceptable providing it does not react with the panel material or exciter foot.

If you are going to use glue, make sure that it dries ''HARD''!..................any softish or mushy drying glue will kill the coupling and the much needed resonances required to transmit from the exciter to panel...............this is CRITICAL !

I assume Crazy Glue would qualify. Correct?

[zygadr]

I'm not familiar with ''crazy glue'' as we don't have it here I think?
Super glue or a two part epoxy glue (thinly applied) will do the job.

[bobloblob]

"Crazy Glue" aka super glue = cyanoacrylate glue, probably available under one name or another, should be available worldwide.

[bobloblob]

Forgot to add that you need to check with some scrap first to make sure it doesn't melt or dissolve the material you are using it on.  Dries very hard and brittle.

[doug s.]

i have not seen an exciter, but if the plastic is a nylon-type, crazy glue will not work w/it...

doug s.

[bobloblob]

I don't think it adheres well to the polyethylene family of plastics.  I'm not sure, but I think on nylon it may hold more or less, particularly if the surface is scuffed to increase area for a greater mechanical bond.  Always test.

There are super glues that claim to be made specifically for plastic, but who knows what is included in their use of that generic term.  Worth trying, but again, test before committing your exciters and panels.

[irishpatrick33]

I used Crazy glue with my old foamcore panels.

It seemed to do the trick. Been holding for many months.

[irishpatrick33]

I'm wondering whether this stuff qualifies as the shellac you guys are suggesting: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=216

Essentially I need to change the color of the cardboard to white. I am wondering whether that product can do both? Or perhaps there is some way to tint shellac white at the paint store?

[bobloblob]

This is a shellac with titanium dioxide in it.  If you want white, this will do.  Titaniunm dioxide is the white base pigment you see in latex paints, and is the whitest of commonly used pigments.  This primer will probably dry to a matte finish.  Most other finishes will go over this well, which is why it is used as a primer.

Check for a date on the can, as older shellac does not dry as well or as completely as fresh shellac.

Might be sorth saturating the cardboard as much as possible with regular clear shellac first, then overcoating with this product.  Shellac is a spirit-based finish, so there is no need to sand between coats except to get a smoother surface or to get rid of irregularities.  If you do use clear on your first coats, try thinning the clear shellac by half or more so it has a better chance of penetrating some.  Work quickly as shellac dries fast but will disturb the previous coats when you work over it too long.  Whatever technique you choose, test on a small piece first to make sure you will get the outcome you want.

[zygadr]

This is a shellac with titanium dioxide in it.  If you want white, this will do.  Titaniunm dioxide us the white base pigment you see in latex paints, and is the whitest of commonly used pigments.  This primer will probably dry to a matte finish.  Most other finishes will go over this well, which is why it is used as a primer.

Check for a date on the can, as older shellac does not dry as well or as completely as fresh shellac.

Might be sorth saturating the cardboard as much as possible with regular clear shellac first, then overcoating with this product.  Shellac is a spirit-based finish, so there is no need to sand between coats except to get a smoother surface or to get rid of irregularities.  If you do use clear on your first coats, try thinning the clear shellac by half or more so it has a better chance of penetrating some.  Work quickly as shellac dries fast but will disturb the previous coats when you work over it too long.  Whatever technique yo choose, test on a small piece first to make sure you will get the outcome you want.

Agreed!

[zygadr]

A note about a post on the DIY AUDIO forum :

It seems that the technical aspects and my lack of providing ''evidence'' on the performance of my NXT panels, inadvertantly means that I have been dishonest with you all............failing to provide graphs, measurements,photos of completed speakers and no reviews in Stereophile magazine.

Well, so be it................it never happened. NXT technology does NOT work..............fooled you all!!!............haha!

I can not and do not have the equipment to accurately measure my speaker panels...........FAIL!
Photographs are not ''evidence'' of their ability to sound good, so I haven't provided any........FAIL!
 The latest version is embarassing to look at and is still being evaluated and tested.I do not wish to take a photo of something that is not yet tested as ''successful''...........what's the point?.........FAIL!

I now know how the inventor of the PLANOT speaker felt as he got blasted to bits by the diyaudio crowd...............they're a fine lot!

I can now relate to those whom I've met and spoken to who bail out of forums because of the constant virtual critics and slammers who have no respect for the individual who spends hundreds of hours researching and experimenting and constantly spending hard earned cash to be able to share his findings with an internet group of interested(?) people.

So, for the 70,000 plus views on this thread, and all those that threw their money away because of me, and my lack of evidence to support my raving on about my NXT implementation, potential and amazing sound quality...............my sincere apologies.

I have no evidence, therefore it does not exist, work or function as stated............FAIL!!!!!!

[el`Ol]

I now know how the inventor of the PLANOT speaker felt as he got blasted to bits by the diyaudio crowd...............they're a fine lot!

Not a good comparison. I had to buy expensive low resonant material in much higher quantities than needed, had iron lasered, built a star-shaped structure that is much less resonant than the long bar and measured a 20 dB decline where the cancellation should happen in theory, so the talk about Moebius strips in the air is nonsense. On the other hand nobody doubts that NXT technology works.

[zygadr]

Not a good comparison. I had to buy expensive low resonant material in much higher quantities than needed, had iron lasered, built a star-shaped structure that is much less resonant than the long bar and measured a 20 dB decline where the cancellation should happen in theory, so the talk about Moebius strips in the air is nonsense. On the other hand nobody doubts that NXT technology works.

Maybe not a good comparison, but the whole NXT saga will sit with me for the rest of my life............unforgettable, unforgiving, unappreciated.

I only hope that there was some benefit gained by others from all this and not just going down as some bullshitter in Australia who has no proof of his work or claims.

[pol_bct]

This is a shellac
....................
Might be sorth saturating the cardboard as much as possible
....................................... ....................................... ..

Hello all,
and for those who don't want, or can't do the painting job
there is also this kind of C.C.
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9008/p220211dmlcc.jpg
very stiff and with a hardened side

and the response curve (close distance)
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1118/dmlsolo.jpg
distorsion in low-medium comes from a swinging small part of C.C.
everywhere else it is under -40dB, not bad

POL

[zygadr]

Good find POL

Any more information on this stuff?

[pol_bct]

> Any more information on this stuff?

   Yes,  I found it in the waste bin 
was the box of a big backpack brushcutter (strimmer?)

POL

[zygadr]

That's great!................all we need now is to find out who sells 6 foot long by 2 foot wide brushcutters 

[sedge]

This weekend I hope to be going to the Bristol hifi show and in March to the Heathrow hifi show.
I look forward to these shows as I always hope to find something new, and to listen to new sounds (music and systems).
 Mostly I walk into rooms and walk strait back out again,the sound is that bad!!!
Last year in the September show I can not remember anything that really impressed me .
I noticed the lack of central image so much that it really started to annoy me .
If you also moved a few inches to one side you lost the other channel
On the poly panels you can easily hear the right channel even when you have one ear on the left panel,they sound as one.

Are there any audio meet-ups in the south of England .
Where you  can show off your pride and joys(speakers  I mean) to other enthusiasts.
I think the only way people  are going to believe how good they sound  is if they hear them for themselves .
So far ,the people that have heard them at my house  have been amazed at how good they sound, but these are not the type of people who go on  audio circles and chat about them .

sedge

[zygadr]

Well said sedge!...................and very true.

What most ''audiophiles'' think is good sound is usually (at least in my experience) not even close to a live experience that these panels can produce. Admittedly, they aren't perfect, but they are incredible in energizing your listening room with wall to wall sound.............very much like a concert will in real life.

I remember a dealer/audiophile here in Perth, W.A. who makes and sells is own brand shoe box size ''high end'' speakers with Focal and Dynaudio drivers.

''Imaging'' was everything to him, yet as soon as you walked in to the room, you immediately knew that the sound was coming from two small boxes.
Even sitting in the sweet spot you knew that the soundstage was not real and synthesised due to obvious forward firing drivers and no sound coming from the rear or sides.
The fact that ''small speakers were playing was immediately evident, as was the crossover point to two totally different driver cone materials

If this is what an audiophile speaker is, they can keep it!............I certainly am not interested in that sort of sound and as a matter of fact have heard more realistic sound from two cheap twin cone drivers mounted on open baffles!!!

[zygadr]

For those that have not been able to get VH grade poly, the following will be re-visited again after some extensive research and listening tests in the past 8 months: ..............

We all remember that famous line : ''MOTHER OF TONE'' - you know, only natural wood/paper based materials can manage to reproduce sound to our ears that is tonally correct and natural.......especially in musical instruments, the way we hear them in real life etc.
Well.................o.k...........I'll accept that for the time being.
Why?...............because, to a point, it is absolutely correct (though I have purposely ignored this after having all the previous problems solved with the poly).

Poly is great....cheap, light weight, needs no treatment, has heaps of highs that were previously strangled by other materials and has good SPL for most.

Now, small peices of corrugated cardboard sheet (2 ply 6mm thick) when coated with a strong SHELLAC/SPIRITS solution as such :

1.with a large opened needle/surgical syringe injected slowly, systematically and with time and patience in to each corrugted cavity - one by one..........stop, let dry, turn sheet over........start again...stop, let dry..........keep going etc. until all the corrugations are coated(you will see this from outside on the faces of the sheets.
You MUST do this sparingly and carefully as a soggy bottom will result and the sheet may begin to delaminate as mine did ages ago when I attempted it

2.Then, coat each face with a small foam roller ONCE..............let dry, turn over, coat other side.........let dry.............then repeat until you have three coats on each face.

3. Check for warping. If warped, lay flat on a hard flat surface and place gentle weights in the correct places to flatten out the sheet.
A quick spray with spirits on the side laying upwards to moisten it will help if you're game.................then place the weights on.
Do not place overly heavy weights as they may crush or damage the board.

The result of all this is due to the following observations:

Shellac dries hard and crispy(just like the raw flakes you buy)...........this is good!
The corrugations now have a much better transmission of high frequencies as the initial raw cardboard mutes the vibrations and causes H.F. roll off..............the major problem all the way along.

Now, and I'm not afraid to admit this.............a recent treated cardboard sheet was compared the the VH poly and the results were VERY surprising

The treated corrugated cardboard.......or T.C.C. if you like ,had a better and fuller bass that was outstanding at times.
T.C.C. was no doubt (oh...........this is killing me! )more natural, smoother, lifelike and more listenable tonality to VH poly 

Highs?..............not as prominent as the poly, but it now seems that the poly seems to sound brittle and overly bright..................surprise, surprise............

Larger sheets will soon be tried................this is getting interesting