AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: mikela8 on 17 Nov 2023, 06:24 am
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Hi Folks,
Decided to up my 2 channel game and build a set of NX-Tremes.
Mike
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One of the biggest challenges I see ahead is choosing a finish for these monsters.
Any suggestions?
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For HT I recommend black because it minimizes reflection of light. For a regular living room or audio room, I like white and then making the grill covers a color that matches the rest of the room. That way, if you ever change rooms or change up your decor, it's easy to just change the grill cloth to something that matches.
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I really like the colors on this https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=187411.new;topicseen#new (https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=187411.new;topicseen#new)
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Hey Mike,
That sounds like a hell of a fun project. Have you decided if you're going to take on the painting yourself or outsourcing to a professional? If you choose to take on the task yourself, hit me up and I'll walk you through the process. My day gig is selling automotive paint so I'd be happy to help steer you in the right direction.
This was my speaker build thread. (https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=178967.0) Page 2 and 3 get to the fun paint part. Just let us all know where we can help and keep everyone posted with your progress!
-Lloyd
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If you choose to take on the task yourself, hit me up and I'll walk you through the process. My day gig is selling automotive paint so I'd be happy to help steer you in the right direction.
Hi Lloyd,
Thanks for the offer! I do have a small 135psi Porter Cable pancake compressor and a H878W/HVLP WB spray gun that's never been used.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=258797)
So I think I at least need to give it a try to see if it will work for me. When I get to that point, I will reach out to you if you don't mind. BTW your NX-Studios with stenciling look phenomenal!
Best,
Mike
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Hi Lloyd,
Thanks for the offer! I do have a small 135psi Porter Cable pancake compressor and a H878W/HVLP WB spray gun that's never been used.
Hi Mike,
Thank you for the kind words. That project was a lot of fun with some serious learning curve for a bit of it. For your project the gun will be fine enough for the most part, but the compressor will need an upgrade for sure. Nothing too crazy is necessary but something you'll need to plan for as PSI doesn't matter one bit, it's all about the volume of air (cfm) that makes the difference. You know the old saying "there's no replacement for displacement" which really holds true here. I'll message you later today for some of the basics you'll be in for and some good workarounds. :thumb:
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WARNING!
I decided to complement the NX-Tremes with the Triple Threat OB subs. I reviewed numerous build threads on these subs and was impressed by what I saw. It was apparent that Jay (Captainhemo) was providing the flatpacks in the threads that I had reviewed. Additionally he was providing the flatpacks for my NX-Tremes. So naturally, I assumed that when I ordered the Triple Threats off of GR's website that I would be getting Jay's flatpack. Unfortunately, it turns out that this is not the case. I found this out when I started asking about modifications through email immediately after ordering. I wanted the top to be flush to the cabinet. However, my email went unanswered and I ended up calling a couple of days later. It was then I found out it was a different provider. Turns out the wood had already been cut so it seems that I am out of luck and they are now on the verge of being shipped. Has anyone else experienced this? I really feel that the website could and should have been more clear on this.
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Maybe I'm missing something, but there's a big picture of what that package is. This seems like an easy fix with a router bit to route the top / sides / front / back flush to that center section.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=259684)
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Maybe I'm missing something, but there's a big picture of what that package is. This seems like an easy fix with a router bit to route the top / sides / front / back flush to that center section.
I agree that the top is an easy fix and that's not the point. It's easy, after reading thread after thread on H-frames of which almost all are using Jay's flat pack (I could only find one thread with the other flat pack) to miss the fact that the picture on the website is not the same. I did not study the website picture in detail. Apparently there are a number of other folks who have made the same mistake. So I am not a one-off. I only mention this so that others get what they actually want. I really don't consider it to be that big a deal assuming there is no performance difference in the cabinets but it has tainted my experience.
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Danny and I had a good conversation today and he agreed to cancel the cabinet portion of my order. I'll open a separate build thread for the subs.
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Danny and I had a good conversation today...
I'm not surprised it worked out fine. :thumb:
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These arrived right before a major downpour at least for LA.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=259869)
These were packed extremely well...pun intended. No damage.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=259870)
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Dry run
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=260016)
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First one glued up using Titebond Extend. My son stopped by to help me out. Glad I didn't try to do it by myself.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=260060)
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That's a really big speaker!
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That's a really big speaker!
Humongous! They make my Statements look like bookshelf speakers. Glad I have a tall ceiling.
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Maybe book shelf speakers was a bit of an exaggeration but still...
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=260079)
I am pretty much leaning toward having these painted by a professional rather than attempting it myself. The only exception might be the interior which I envision as a matte black of some sort. Anyone have a suggestion for painting in the Southern California area? Also wondering if I could save some money by doing the surface prep myself. Does anyone have a suggestion for a sanding sealer if I plan on an automotive finish? This House of Kolor paint has piqued my interest https://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/detail/index.html?id=S2-FBC03&ref=kolors (https://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/detail/index.html?id=S2-FBC03&ref=kolors)
Mike
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Mike those things are looking good! You'll likely need a scissor lift to install the top woofers. :lol:. I did make a few calls to some of our stores around the LA area and the customers weren't able to commit to squeeze a speaker job that size in over their existing workload at the moment. I'm sure there are shops looking for work enough to do it, but it'll take some phone calls or knocking on doors. Plus our store closest to you is City Of Industry so there's likely some closer shops to your side of town.
As for the color, I still totally approve of that gunmetal gray metallic look. It's popular because it always looks good against the shiny black drivers and copper phase plugs. These things are going to be awesome when they're all finished up.
Also when you find a shop to do the work, definitely discuss with them whether applying a sealer before sending it off is a good idea and if so which kind you'd want to use. Paints can be finicky with some major incompatibility from time to time. Just discuss either your painter what you are thinking vs what materials they're using. Any questions, I'm a quick message away. I say that because I see that issue all the time where someone is trying to help a situation and put down say a rustoleum primer and then try to paint over the top and wonder why their paint is wrinkling and not sticking. No bueno.
-Lloyd
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Hi Lloyd,
Yeah, they make the "Statements" seem like a misnomer.
Thanks for for the info on paint. I spoke to Jay about what he used on the marbleized purple NX-Tremes he had painted. He used a penetrating epoxy to ensure that the MDF seams didn't show through which I know can be a problem. I will definitely check with the folks who are going to do the painting before I proceed.
Mike
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Did he also mention that he spent ~100 hours preparing those!!
Don
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Did he also mention that he spent ~100 hours preparing those!!
Don
Actually he did mention it was a lot of work...but I think the results appear to be worth it.
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Indeed, I do miss those, moved however to a much smaller room
Don
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I decided to keep the triple sub build in this thread.
I followed the Peter Rawlings YouTube video and would suggest not doing this on a table for a triple as you won't be able to easily reach the top for gluing.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=260658)
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Im really keeping a close eye on this thread because I currently use Statement 2 mains and I am thinking of building either the Otica or Xtreme soon. I cannot wait to hear how this build compares to your statements. 👀
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I used a 1/8" round-over bit to take the sharp edge off of all the outside edges. I have some small gaps where the sides connect with the braces. I assume I can fill these with Titebond perhaps mixed with a little saw dust?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=261043)
I plan on using System Three S-1 penetrating epoxy as a sealer. Any recommendations on grit sizes for sanding before applying the sealer? I know Jay used 120 for the initial sanding he did for the purple NX-Tremes.
I'm planning on getting a paint estimate later this week.
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Glue makes lousy filler, especially for something you're going to use automotive paint on. Perhaps the epoxy will make a good base for automotive urethanes, but to be certain of compatibility, use products specifically designed as systems. If you do use epoxy, I would wait at least a couple of weeks for it to fully cure before working it at all.
For good results, follow proven procedures. Prime first and you'll see much more of what needs bodywork. Prime, fill sand. Prime, fill sand. You can use 120 for all initial work. On last primer coats move to 240 then 320. Prime again then sand with 400-600 for base color.
Only when your primed surface is prepped to perfection are you ready for base, then clear. Paint itself makes crappy filler and doesn't hide imperfections. Particularly true of metallics.
For filling small stuff like you pictured, polyester glazing works well. Think of it as finer grained body filler.
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Any recommendations on grit sizes for sanding before applying the sealer? I know Jay used 120 for the initial sanding he did for the purple NX-Tremes.
I'm planning on getting a paint estimate later this week.
Hi Mike,
Peter hit the nail on the head with the paint prep steps. I also concur that a polyester glazing putty is a much more suitable choice for filling inperfections and gaps. U-Pol Dolphin Glaze (part #UP0714) or Evercoat Metal Glaze (part #424) is my recommendation. That 2 part epoxy system should be fine as a wood sealant as it's basically an epoxy resin for fiberglass work. Similar to the polyester resins of laying fiberglass, but slower cure and stronger. The painter will still likely have multiple applications of primer and sanding before ready for paint. Also keep me posted with the paint quote and try to explain there will likely be a couple times of priming the speakers. I feel like that's something that painters overlook is the multiple applications of sanding and primer before spraying color and clearcoat.
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Hey guys thanks for the input. Really great information.
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I used a 1/8" round-over bit to take the sharp edge off of all the outside edges. I have some small gaps where the sides connect with the braces. I assume I can fill these with Titebond perhaps mixed with a little saw dust?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=261043)
I plan on using System Three S-1 penetrating epoxy as a sealer. Any recommendations on grit sizes for sanding before applying the sealer? I know Jay used 120 for the initial sanding he did for the purple NX-Tremes.
I'm planning on getting a paint estimate later this week.
I am building some NX-Otica's but my build is on hold for a few weeks because of foot surgery. I had taken them to a cabinet maker to get an estimate for painting. He said he wanted to router the edges so the paint would stick. Can you show some pictures of the top so I can see what it looks like from that angle. I didn't go with the cabinet guy but I probably should have. When you get an estimate make sure they understand that there will be several coats of primer and sanding. I had a car guy paint my speakers and he didn't put enough coats of primer. He also didn't sand between coats. It was a disaster. I eventually took them back and re-sanded myself. I wasn't able to paint before my surgery but I think I am going to do it myself.
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Can you show some pictures of the top so I can see what it looks like from that angle.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=261112)
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When applying sealer or paint to the cabinets, is it advisable to put something like a small nail in the speaker screw holes? Or is it unnecessary?
BTW the polyester glazing putty was a good call.
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When applying sealer or paint to the cabinets, is it advisable to put something like a small nail in the speaker screw holes? Or is it unnecessary?
BTW the polyester glazing putty was a good call.
I always just made a little rolled up piece of masking tape to poke in there but if you're doing regular screws into the mdf it won't be that critical. If you did threaded inserts and machine screws, it'd be a little more critical to tape off nicely.
Glad to hear you're making some progress on those!
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Hi Folks,
A quick update.
I decided to farm out my crossovers and reached out to Frederick @fre11111 for his services. He has a thread pinned at the beginning of the GR Circle. He really did an excellent job! Being in the Southern California area he is going to drop by and audition the NX-Tremes once I get them built.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=262310)
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Hi Folks,
A quick update.
I decided to farm out my crossovers and reached out to Frederick @fre11111 for his services. He has a thread pinned at the beginning of the GR Circle. He really did an excellent job! Being in the Southern California area he is going to drop by and audition the NX-Tremes once I get them built.
Frederick is awesome.
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Frederick is a great guy and a good friend I've made through AC. He does amazing work and is an incredibly nice guy!
Robert
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Hi Folks,
A quick update.
I decided to farm out my crossovers and reached out to Frederick @fre11111 for his services. He has a thread pinned at the beginning of the GR Circle. He really did an excellent job! Being in the Southern California area he is going to drop by and audition the NX-Tremes once I get them built.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=262310)
Hey your in socal? Mind if I drop in aswell for a demo?
Fredrick is a joy to talk to and makes the cleanest crossovers.