[airhead]

I wrote recently that I am looking for a new cartridge for my Well Tempered Classic table and arm,
to replace my thirty year old van den Hul MC One.  But I'm worried that the table also can't be maintained
much longer.  I did get a new belt from Stanalog a few years ago, but he seems to be gone now, and I think
I should get new fluid, and maybe even a new bearing cup.  Or should I give up and try to think about a whole new table?
Or just hope for the best with the old one?

[code4246]

How old is your one ?

Mine went for 24yrs without needing repairs or replacement parts.

If it's in good condition there's no reason why it shouldn't go on forever.

 

PS did you find a replacement for the VDH MC One ?

[SteveFord]

I got a heavier duty belt from my local stereo repair shop (no charge), you can get the silicone for the arm off of eBay for about $10, the platter takes lightweight synthetic engine oil, I'm sure someone could source a replacement motor if need be - I wouldn't worry about a thing.

[threadkiller]

Agreed.   You shouldn't need new fluid or cup, unless you are doing something that's not fit to print.  And you can source a belt.
I wouldn't worry either. Just enjoy.
But please do something about that 30 yr old cartridge! There is no such thing as a vintage cartridge. Besides horrible sound, you might be ruining your records.

[Vic]

http://www.turntablebasics.com/belts.html

http://www.elexatelier.com/welltempered.htm

http://www.turntable-power-supply.com/turntables_fitting/welltempered.htm

[Triode Pete]

Also, the silcone dampening fluid in the arm can be purchased at any hobby shop for $10 (for a lifetime supply)...

Yes, synthetic motor oil (5w20 Mobil 1) can be used for the platter bearing but lightweight Cst silicone fluid can be procured as well...

The Classic is a great table at very affordable prices...

[airhead]

Thank you for your suggestions.   I did buy a belt from Stanalog when he was still around.  He seemed also to have
new bearings and motors.  I do notice a slight wobble in my turntable platter---it will scrape against the motor
assembly once per revolution if the turntable assembly isn't raised a bit.  This can't be good.  But it still sounds quite good to me.

I have stopped playing any records until my cartridge is replaced.  I will probably get a new van den Hul or a Lyra.
I did find a fairly recent review of the Lyra in a French magazine that compares the Lyra Delos, the van den Hul Condor,
and a really expensive CD player.  All were good, but for most things the Condor was best.  (for channel  separation  in the
bass, the CD won).  I might actually go for a Condor....looking for an "affordable" one.  It will take some time.

[Vic]

Platter wobble? Is the platter seated fully on the spindle? If so, does the platter appear to at a slight angle in relation to the base enough to hit the motor? My older style platter cup has no method of vertical spindle adjustment which would adjust the horizontal relationship of the platter to the base.

(CAN SOMEONE CONFIRM THIS?)
I think some cups have set screw adjustments to the nylon buttons within the cup to make this adjustment. The fit between my cup and the base was very tight. I used a short piece of one inch wooden dowel and a mallet to drive the cup up through the base just enough, only to find out that my cup didn't have the adjustable buttons.

To compensate I leveled the plater by placing a flat 200 gram LP on the platter without the clamp (the platter is concave). Using a spirit level placed on the LP I adjusted slightly the shelf under the turntable and rechecked the anti-skate.

Lifting the base independently of the motor should have no affect other than to lower the belts relationship on the platter edge. 

[j beede]

Also, the silcone dampening fluid in the arm can be purchased at any hobby shop for $10 (for a lifetime supply)...

Yes, synthetic motor oil (5w20 Mobil 1) can be used for the platter bearing but lightweight Cst silicone fluid can be procured as well...

The Classic is a great table at very affordable prices...

Yes, I see that this silicone fluid is used by the radio control hobby industry. Anyone know what viscosity for the arm well? For the main bearing?
...j

[j beede]

Thank you for your suggestions.   I did buy a belt from Stanalog when he was still around.  He seemed also to have
new bearings and motors.  I do notice a slight wobble in my turntable platter---it will scrape against the motor
assembly once per revolution if the turntable assembly isn't raised a bit.  This can't be good.  But it still sounds quite good to me.

I have stopped playing any records until my cartridge is replaced.  I will probably get a new van den Hul or a Lyra.
I did find a fairly recent review of the Lyra in a French magazine that compares the Lyra Delos, the van den Hul Condor,
and a really expensive CD player.  All were good, but for most things the Condor was best.  (for channel  separation  in the
bass, the CD won).  I might actually go for a Condor....looking for an "affordable" one.  It will take some time.

My WTT motor module has rubber feet attached to its bottom side. You might tape some 100 grit sandpaper to a tabletop then pass the motor module over it a few times to take ten thousandths or so off the motor module feet to give a little more clearance? It does sound like you have some axial runout between your spindle and platter. I don't know of any DIY means for improving this. FYI: I have had Linn LP-12 and Rega with visible axial runout.
...j

[gstew]

I have a couple of NOS belts left and they don't seem to age much, but I'm still worried about the belt thing.

I know that Mike P offers a replacement pulley that uses the same thread belt setup as the current Amadeus. I have it here, but I'm in the process of getting my table up and running again and won't be trying it for a few months, it's behind some other projects.

So my question is, does anyone have any feedback after replacing the original belt/pulley combo with the new one? Also, does anyone have any feedback on the aftermarket replacements out there for the original belts? Based on the info I read, it sounded like the original belt was a pretty special unit... from the International Audio Review article back in the day:

"... Firebaugh went to a much higher quality, much more expensive belt. It's the same type used to drive the machines that pull fiber optics during their manufacture.... These belts are made in a special centrifuge, cured slowly, and then seasoned."

I also remember reading that the reject rate on belts received from the supplier was high.

So I despair a bit that the off-the-shelf belts will provide the same quality. I'm much more hopeful about the thread belt/pulley system, but the bearing of the Amadeus and other recent WTT's, while still innovative in solving the problems most other spindle/bearing systems have, works differently than the original WTT setup. So it is possible that the thread belt/pulley setup may be optimal with the new tables, but not necessarily for the older ones. Of course, the thread belt/pulley could very easily be still a lot better than the aftermarket belts. And with Stanalog and the original WTT line having disappeared, us owners of older WTL tables don't have a choice... after all of our older belts have died, it is either aftermarket replacements for the older pulley setup or the new thread belt/pulley setup.

But I haven't seen much feedback on this from people who have tried the aftermarket belts and the newer thread belt/pulley setup.

ANYONE?

Greg in Mississippi

[threadkiller]

Greg,
You're over thinking here.. you have two easy choices. Why such a quandary?
Try an aftermarket.  If you don't like it then try the pulley.  Firebaugh wouldn't endorse it if it sucked.
Good luck.

[SteveFord]

My old square motor has platter wobble with the stock belts; they simply weren't putting enough tension on the platter.
Using a wider belt sourced from my local electronics repair shop cured it.
The stock belts work fine on my Classic - who knows.