AudioCircle
Industry Circles => Omega Speaker Systems => Topic started by: pstrisik on 10 Jan 2014, 01:08 am
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Hi all,
I have on order a handmade by Dennis Had 12wpc single ended KT150 based amp. (Dennis Had is the designer of the Cary tube products. I have his SLP-05 preamp and absolutely love it. He also designed the Cary CAD-805 series amps.)
Dennis claims it will power most cone based speakers fine. I'm skeptical though I will give it a shot. I have restored AR2ax'. They are at 87db / 8 ohms. AR says minimum 20watts - this was stated around 1970. Great experiment and experience in any case.
So, Omegas may be in my future! :wink: I have no experience with single ended amps or full range drivers, but I like what I am reading. And looking around at the options, Omegas draw me the most.
Oh... I'm running a Conrad-Johnson Premier 11A (70wpc p-p amp) between the Cary SLP-05 and the AR2ax'.
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Hi all,
I have on order a handmade by Dennis Had 12wpc single ended KT150 based amp. (Dennis Had is the designer of the Cary tube products. I have his SLP-05 preamp and absolutely love it. He also designed the Cary CAD-805 series amps.)
Dennis claims it will power most cone based speakers fine. I'm skeptical though I will give it a shot. I have restored AR2ax'. They are at 87db / 8 ohms. AR says minimum 20watts - this was stated around 1970. Great experiment and experience in any case.
So, Omegas may be in my future! :wink: I have no experience with single ended amps or full range drivers, but I like what I am reading. And looking around at the options, Omegas draw me the most.
Oh... I'm running a Conrad-Johnson Premier 11A (70wpc p-p amp) between the Cary SLP-05 and the AR2ax'.
I too was quite intrigued by the single-driver design. In addition to the universal approval of Louis' line up my decision for the Super 5's is for their easy load. Who can argue at 2 watts to get started. My other considerations were Ascend Sierra 1, Maggie MMG and Aperion's 5T. In 3 weeks let the eval begin.
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Hi pstrisik,
Many thanks for your post and kind words. I have seen but not heard the new gear from Dennis Had. It looks great and I'm sure the amps sound great too. Years ago I had an old SLA70 that I liked and had a 300 SEI for a while too.
I hope that single drivers get more popular and looks like more and more low powered amps are coming out.
Now with the RS5's it's a great time to try the 3 series lineup.
Many thanks FireGuy and a good 2 watts is a great way to get started.
Thanks again,
Louis
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Hi pstrisik,
Many thanks for your post and kind words. I have seen but not heard the new gear from Dennis Had. It looks great and I'm sure the amps sound great too. Years ago I had an old SLA70 that I liked and had a 300 SEI for a while too.
I hope that single drivers get more popular and looks like more and more low powered amps are coming out.
Now with the RS5's it's a great time to try the 3 series lineup.
Many thanks FireGuy and a good 2 watts is a great way to get started.
Thanks again,
Louis
Hi Louis,
Thanks for the welcome! Dennis finished the amp Thursday and has been listening to it. It will ship Monday and I should have it by the end of the week. Then the test with my AR's. Should I continue towards the full range driver path, I will have lots of questions!
Here's a shot of the finished amp. Again, single ended, 12wpc, KT150 power tubes (pentode)!
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92884)
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pstrisik, I have an EL34 SET that needs to be rebuilt at some point.... going from a modded, burnt PCB to ptp wiring since my SET has no driver stage, my preamp has enough gain and can drive the EL34s directly.
I am considering rebuilding the amp with kt150s instead of EL34s, have you heard both by any chance?
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pstrisik, I have an EL34 SET that needs to be rebuilt at some point.... going from a modded, burnt PCB to ptp wiring since my SET has no driver stage, my preamp has enough gain and can drive the EL34s directly.
I am considering rebuilding the amp with kt150s instead of EL34s, have you heard both by any chance?
No, sorry. Actually, I haven't heard either... yet! This will be my first SE amp. I have a CJ Pr11A that runs 6550 or KT88/KT120. There is debate about whether the KT150 will be drop in for CJ amps, but CJ hasn't weighed in yet AFAIK.
I'm relying on Dennis Had's advice. He really likes the KT150 in this design. This amp has several options for tube combos, including the EL34. It will output 7wpc with EL34's. I may try some of the other combos at some point.
These are possible without modifications:
* 5 watts per channel output with 6V6 output tubes and 5Y3 rectifier tube
* 7 watts per channel with 6L6, KT66, 5881 output tubes and 5U4 rectifier tube
* 10 watts output with KT88, EL34, 6550, KT99, KT120, KT150 output tubes with 5U4, 274B rectifier tube
* 12 watts output with KT-88, KT-120 or KT-150 output tubes and 5AR4 rectifier tube
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Sounds like a nice amp... Other than EL34s I have only tried KT88/6550s in my amp and prefer the EL34s with my Omegas. Currently using the GL KT77s which are really nice.
Let us know how the matchup works out, I'm sure it'll be great!
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Well, I've been listening and tweaking for a week or two. I like this amp! It's not bad with the 87db AR2ax'. Seems to begin to run out of steam above 85db in an ~23x26 room, listening ~10ft from speakers. I try to listen at 80db tops, so this isn't bad. I prefer the 274B rectifier over the 5AR4 even though the latter is 12wpc vs. 10wpc with 274B. Nicer sound.
Curiously, I'm ending up running the stock EH tubes in my Cary SLP-05 pre. Preferring them over some nice Sylvania Chrome Dome NOS tubes that I liked with my C-J amp.
I'm sure I'll try the EL34's at some point as I can just swap them in to take the place of the KT150's.
Anyway, I am still interested in the single driver path. So, recommendations!
I'm partial to monitors and like the size of the Super 6 Monitor. Thought the Super 5 has better bass response according to the website specs. Louis, you're raving about the RS5 driver. Is that what makes the difference, or is there something about the specs that I should consider, eg, Super 6 says down to 55Hz but 45 in room while the Super 5 only says 45.
It seems there is much talk about Alnico based drivers being superior to Ferrite, but the RS5 is the latter and the driver in the Super 6 is the former.
Bigger drivers on the horizon? How will these fit in the line up in terms of performance? Many people here seem to be opting for the smaller drivers.
Just putting some thoughts out there and would appreciate understanding more about your designs.
My room is ~23x26x9 and listening position is ~10ft. I have a pair of Rythmik FS12 subs. These are fast as subs go, probably not as fast as your new ones though.
Thank you........ Peter
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/541/dqn9.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f1dqn9j)
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Louis tried for a long time to develop a suitable AlNiCo based small driver, but finally gave up. AlNiCo has higher flux density and reportedly a warmer sound.
From my readings (and experience beyond his current drivers) the smaller drivers are faster and would integrate better with the proper (fast) subwoofers. Specifications can't tell the whole story in life. Common sense says bigger drivers will push more air and provide more feel/substance of the bass. So with your subs, the RS5 in one of the smaller cabinets would be the direction I'd go.
And frankly whizzer cones confuse me (I've yet to get a good explanation as to what is going on there). I have 8 inch AlNiCo full range drivers (Fostex F200A, 30 - 20,000 Hz, 8 ohms, 89 dB/w/m, about $425 each) that have no whizzer, which means for better or worse they beam above roughly 4,000 Hz. I wanted coherence across the entire frequency range, but if doing it again would look into a swam of subs (search Audio Circle, read Floyd E. Toole's 'Sound Reproduction') with the RS5 in one of the smaller cabinets.
Fairly big room, how loud do you listen? (Like any small extended range driver the RS5 has limited excursion/output, but the subs would help.)
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Louis tried for a long time to develop a suitable AlNiCo based small driver, but finally gave up. AlNiCo has higher flux density and reportedly a warmer sound.
From my readings (and experience beyond his current drivers) the smaller drivers are faster and would integrate better with the proper (fast) subwoofers. Specifications can't tell the whole story in life. Common sense says bigger drivers will push more air and provide more feel/substance of the bass. So with your subs, the RS5 in one of the smaller cabinets would be the direction I'd go.
And frankly whizzer cones confuse me (I've yet to get a good explanation as to what is going on there). I have 8 inch AlNiCo full range drivers (Fostex F200A, 30 - 20,000 Hz, 8 ohms, 89 dB/w/m, about $425 each) that have no whizzer, which means for better or worse they beam above roughly 4,000 Hz. I wanted coherence across the entire frequency range, but if doing it again would look into a swam of subs (search Audio Circle, read Floyd E. Toole's 'Sound Reproduction') with the RS5 in one of the smaller cabinets.
Fairly big room, how loud do you listen? (Like any small extended range driver the RS5 has limited excursion/output, but the subs would help.)
I listen at 80db for the most part. I've found with the new Dennis Had 10 watt single ended amp that I don't need to turn it up quite as much to get the full sound. I'm hoping that will be even more true with Omegas. Still, I would like to be able to run comfortably to 90db. With my current speakers, audible distortion starts at 85db. Going from 87db sensitivity to 92db+ should do that I think.
Interesting that alnico is really only feasible in larger drivers. I wonder how much the cone material is affecting the difference between the 6" alnico and the 4.5" RS5? Or, to put it another way, would the design of the RS5 translate to a 6" driver with alnico motor?
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There is a 7" version of the RS5 driver, the ferrite motor has no whizzer but the alnico does. A whizzer is a mechanical crossover.... Louis would know a lot more about the pros/cons and design considerations for using a whizzer or not...
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There is a 7" version of the RS5 driver, the ferrite motor has no whizzer but the alnico does. A whizzer is a mechanical crossover.... Louis would know a lot more about the pros/cons and design considerations for using a whizzer or not...
That's interesting, the first mention of a larger version of the RS5. I assume it's driver only at this point, ie, no speaker models developed for it (yet?)?
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It might not be on the website yet, but there was a pic posted of a 7" in an XRS type cabinet so I assume it is orderable.
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...you may already know this, but every 3db in volume is a doubling of power. So coming from 87 db - and depending on which model Omega you choose - you will likely have the equivalent of 4x or more in perceived power (as an example, 87 to 93db is 2x2 = 4 times.) So a 10 watt amp on your current speakers would sound likes pumping about 40 watts or more in volume on Omega from the same amp. Or in reverse, 10 watts on Omega (assuming 93 db) will be about as loud as 40 watts on the 87db speakers. I hope that makes sense. Kent
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...you may already know this, but every 3db in volume is a doubling of power. So coming from 87 db - and depending on which model Omega you choose - you will likely have the equivalent of 4x or more in perceived power (as an example, 87 to 93db is 2x2 = 4 times.) So a 10 watt amp on your current speakers would sound likes pumping about 40 watts or more in volume on Omega from the same amp. Or in reverse, 10 watts on Omega (assuming 93 db) will be about as loud as 40 watts on the 87db speakers. I hope that makes sense. Kent
It does make sense, though all relative. Bottom line is that the Omegas will allow the 10 watt amp to be plenty!
......Peter
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It might not be on the website yet, but there was a pic posted of a 7" in an XRS type cabinet so I assume it is orderable.
Hopefully Louis will chime in.
By the way, what makes the design XRS? Is it the baffle width?
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http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=121531.0
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http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=121531.0
Thank you! That seems like the alley to explore subject to more input. Super 7 Monitors, maybe! :icon_lol:
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Greetings Omegazoids,
I talked with Louis yesterday. He was very helpful.
My biggest decision is Super 7 Monitor vs. XRS. I like monitors and have good usable stands. Primarily, it seems the benefit of the XRS is extended bass. There is also the wider baffle (14") that Louis says increases sound stage and reduces baffle step diffraction. He makes the monitor with a narrower baffle (10") more for practical reasons - suitability for available stands. He may be able to make the monitors with the wider baffle, but even if he did, I'm still unsure.
I'm leaning towards the floor standers as they are still not that tall at 32", only 45lbs vs. 30lbs for the monitors, and have several benefits. The only benefit of the monitor he identified, other that aesthetic, cost or practical reasons, is the shorter cabinet panels can slightly reduce resonance and increase midrange speed. Sounds like a very slight difference though.
Regarding drivers... stock is the 7" ferrite without whizzer. I can buy the 7" alnico with whizzer as a DIY driver and driver roll! 8) He says the alnico is warmer and with more texture to the sound, but needs the whizzer to keep higher frequencies. The ferrite can run without a whizzer as it can provide decent higher frequencies on its own. I'm a bit sensitive to 3000+ Hz, so it is a difficult choice. The qualities of the alnico are very attractive. The whizzer seems like a compromise. But the ferrite without the whizzer may be less satisfying. So I may have to go with both and see for my self! :thumb:
I'm putting this out there just thinking out loud and am looking for feedback/thoughts to make sure I'm not missing something and to help firm up my decision.
So default order at the moment is: Super 7 XRS in bubinga with a pair of 7" Alnicos in addition to the stock ferrite drivers.
Thanks!
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Having obtained two sets of speakers from Louis, my opinion is that he is in the best position to help with a decision like this. Give Louis your priorities and other considerations, then ask him which is best for you based on your criteria. You're not asking him which is a better way to go in generic terms, but rather what would he do if he was in your shoes with your priorities / preferences. Just my 2 cents.
My current speakers are Super 6 Alnico Monitors with Deep Hemp sub. They are a few years old now, and Louis may have some new and improved solution now, but at the time they were the speaker that Louis felt best met my needs. They sound fantastic, so I've never looked back.
K
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Having obtained two sets of speakers from Louis, my opinion is that he is in the best position to help with a decision like this. Give Louis your priorities and other considerations, then ask him which is best for you based on your criteria. You're not asking him which is a better way to go in generic terms, but rather what would he do if he was in your shoes with your priorities / preferences. Just my 2 cents.
My current speakers are Super 6 Alnico Monitors with Deep Hemp sub. They are a few years old now, and Louis may have some new and improved solution now, but at the time they were the speaker that Louis felt best met my needs. They sound fantastic, so I've never looked back.
K
You don't want more? You always do! :wink:
Seriously, thanks for the vote of confidence. Consulting with Louis is what got me to my choice so far. Just doing a last, "Am I overlooking something?".
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You don't want more? You always do! :wink:
Seriously, thanks for the vote of confidence. Consulting with Louis is what got me to my choice so far. Just doing a last, "Am I overlooking something?".
Hey pstrisik. I have complete faith in Louis, and no one knows Omega speakers like he does. Maybe a I need to change my screen name now that I'm getting older... I'm actually learning to enjoy and be thankful for what I have. 8)
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......Maybe a I need to change my screen name now that I'm getting older... I'm actually learning to enjoy and be thankful for what I have. 8)
I hope I'm getting there. :shake: We'll see with these speakers. I'm set with DAC, Pre, Amp. Source is in flux as are speakers. I have two preamps and two amps. I will have two sets of speakers. So I can do switching around or set up a second system.
The ones that go together are:
1) Cary SLP05 => CJ Pr11A => AR2ax
2) Dennis Had Inspire LP-2 (ordered) => Dennis Had Inspire KT150 => Omegas.
Can mix 'n match, but those combinations make the most sense. Doesn't look like it, but I feel like I'm circling in to stability! Of course, there are still more tubes to try! :bomb:
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By definition to be a true audiophile you almost have to "alwayswantmore."
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Order is in!
Super 7 XRS in bubinga with both drivers, ie, second set for driver rolling! 8) Ferrite with whizzer and alnico without.
Very excited!
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Congrats pstrisik,
I and I'm sure many others here will be very interested to hear about the speaker rolling once you've got both sets broken in. That's going to be a lot of fun.
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Hi Everyone,
Louis is kind enough to make the grill whatever size I prefer. I did some mock ups and wonder what others think about these options:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95420) . (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95421) . (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95422) . (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95423) . (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95441)
Edit: Fifth option is ~8.5" x 13.75" grill. Size calculated with golden ratio.
.........Peter
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I'd prefer either of the taller/narrower ones.
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Something like #3... did you try the golden mean proportions for the grill?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_ratio
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Something like #3... did you try the golden mean proportions for the grill?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_ratio
Interesting! I used to be a math wiz, but I just get dizzy looking at those formulas now!
I wonder if using a preferred ratio like that would still be appropriate if the speaker face itself doesn't adhere to the same ratio. Another way to say it: Should the proportions of the grill match those of the cabinet?
If it did, the grill would be ~8.5 x 19.5" (cabinet is 14 x 32). Louis' standard for this cabinet is 8.5 x 20, so he was sticking close to proportionate. I don't think I would like the grill covering more than half of the face though. Particularly with such pretty finish (Bubinga... the mock up isn't bubinga, btw. Ebony I think).
Anyone good enough with math to calculate what length grill would result if the width was 8.5" under the golden ratio? I'll google and see if there's a calculator available.
Edit: Ok, found a calculator. If I use 8.5" width, I get 8.5" x 13.753". Now I'll see if I can create a mock up with that size grill. (Fun project!)
Edit: Added fifth option above with golden ratio based grill size.
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That golden ratio option doesn't do it for me for some reason. I'm leaning towards either #2 or #4. Both of those are wider than the 8.5". Probably about 9.5. If I calculated golden ration based on 9.5, it would extend past the vertical midpoint, which I don't prefer.
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#4 for me as well
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I would prefer something wider and even longer than #4.
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I appreciate the opinions. I started preferring #1. Bouncing this around helps a lot.
Here's one that is half way between #2 & #4 in length. Actual grill size would be 9.5" x 11".
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95444)
And here's one for you Beowulf! 10.9" x 15" - I actually like this one, too. Thanks!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95445)
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I appreciate the opinions. I started preferring #1. Bouncing this around helps a lot.
Here's one that is half way between #2 & #4 in length. Actual grill size would be 9.5" x 11".
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95444)
And here's one for you Beowulf! 10.9" x 15" - I actually like this one, too. Thanks!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95445)
Yes, the 10.9" x 15" does it for me as well ... nice choice! :thumb:
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Well, I've asked Louis to change finish to Zebra Wood and to make the grill 11" x 13.5" as in mock up below. I'm waiting to hear if the grill size will work on a practical level with how he mounts the driver. Mostly if there is space enough at the top edge to match the sides, ie, grill edges 1.5" from top and side edges.
Thanks again for the help processing my thinking about it.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95563)
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Looks very nice! I didn't think about grills when I ordered. Since they are modified 3xrs I guess they will be in the 3xrs style.. In retrospect I'm sort of glad, all the choices... And a surprise when they arrive. Ordered zebra as well.
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Looks very nice! I didn't think about grills when I ordered. Since they are modified 3xrs I guess they will be in the 3xrs style.. In retrospect I'm sort of glad, all the choices... And a surprise when they arrive. Ordered zebra as well.
The curse and blessing of audiophile OCD. :wink:
Have you posted and pics of your zebra wood 3's? If not, would you? I'd love to see what it looks like in a similar cabinet.
Thanks.......Peter
edit: I just realized that you are waiting for yours to arrive (I think) !
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Yeah I'm waiting for them to arrive. Emailed Louis yesterday and asked if had an idea when they are to be shipped. Hope he don't think I'm too impatient.... I'm just looking forward to listen to music. The amp is ready and on its way from Decware. Guess shipping will be a couple of weeks including customs and stuff. Louis said he will send some pics when done, when I get them I'll post them. I believe he said something about putting them on his website, but not sure
They will be 35" x 11" x 9", 32 liter zebra wood and black bases
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Yeah I'm waiting for them to arrive. Emailed Louis yesterday and asked if had an idea when they are to be shipped. Hope he don't think I'm too impatient.... I'm just looking forward to listen to music. The amp is ready and on its way from Decware. Guess shipping will be a couple of weeks including customs and stuff. Louis said he will send some pics when done, when I get them I'll post them. I believe he said something about putting them on his website, but not sure
They will be 35" x 11" x 9", 32 liter zebra wood and black bases
Cool.. I'm looking forward to seeing them. New amp and speakers! Where are you located? I'm up in Alaska. :)
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Norway.. I guess both of us will appreciate that warm tube sound.
I googled your new amp and its very nice. I like these rare and special products, at least its rare in Europe. I bet it will be a very nice sound as well. What kind of music will you listen to with this set up?
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Just replied to your PM with some geography chat! :)
I like a wide range of jazz, blues, 60's/70's classic rock, some classical (not too avant garde), and modern rock/folk-rock if not too aggressive.
The amp is really nice and I'm very excited about trying it with Louis' speakers. I also ordered a matching preamp from Dennis in the same Jaguar Red - model LP-2. It may end up as a "special" secondary preamp though, as it doesn't have a remote volume control. Couldn't resist having the set though! :o
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Just picked up a 1980's Harman Kardon 40wpc integrated amp for $60 on craig's list. :)
Why, you say? I shall put it in the basement with an old iPhone for a source. When my Super 7 XRS' come, I will use utmost discipline and run them in the basement for break in. Two sets of drivers, so a week with one, then a week with the other, then bring them upstairs.
Yes, with the utmost discipline!
Anyone laying bets yet? :lol:
........Peter
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Are you confident it is working properly, nothing to be afraid of? No possibility that it can blow those new drivers ?
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Are you confident it is working properly, nothing to be afraid of? No possibility that it can blow those new drivers ?
I ran it at the seller's house and it seemed functional enough. All inputs work - no scratchy sounding controls. I will also try it in my main system this weekend and see how it sounds. Thanks for your concern!
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Had an amp that on occasion went to full output...believe there was dust in the pot meter or something.. Sold it since I couldn't trust it.
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Had an amp that on occasion went to full output...believe there was dust in the pot meter or something.. Sold it since I couldn't trust it.
Wow! That would be scary! :o
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Old ss amp. Actually a good one, classe cap 101.
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pstrisik,
Years ago I had a brand new 80's HK integrated, and it went to max volume all on it's own - I about jumped out of my skin. I have owned 4 pieces of HK over the years and 3 of them had problems.
I would just hook your speakers up to the amp you are going to listen to them on in the room where they will permanently reside and enjoy the music while you are breaking the speakers in. You will never get that listening time back if you put the speakers in the basement and let them run by themselves on an old worn out 1980's HK.
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pstrisik,
Years ago I had a brand new 80's HK integrated, and it went to max volume all on it's own - I about jumped out of my skin. I have owned 4 pieces of HK over the years and 3 of them had problems.
I would just hook your speakers up to the amp you are going to listen to them on in the room where they will permanently reside and enjoy the music while you are breaking the speakers in. You will never get that listening time back if you put the speakers in the basement and let them run by themselves on an old worn out 1980's HK.
I'll be careful.
I plan to hook up the HK to my main system this weekend and see what it sounds like where I'm already familiar. I'll be there if it catches fire or anything. If it runs ok for a couple of days of regular use, I'm not going to worry.
The agony of break in is something I really do not relish. My mind plays too many games. I'd rather start in a place that I know is where I will be.
.......Peter
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pstrisik,
Every Omega I have had has sounded great right out of the box; the break in period just improved what was already there, and my experience with Omega goes back to the hempcone days. I always had suitable upline gear in front of them, so I never have had any of the thinness of sound that some say they have. If the Omegas don't sound great out of the box, there is something wrong elsewhere in the system, so if you already have good upline gear you can go right at it.
If you start listening on an old solid state amp, you may be disappointed, as Omegas are thoroughbreds and require good upline gear, and your Dennis Had amp is surely that. You sound like the break in period is like a trip to the dentist; it doesn't have to be. I will use the reverse of your psychology: first impressions are the strongest, and the HK may mess with your mind.
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CanadaRob: Its really nice to read your statements; good out the box...thoroughbreds... only improves whats already there. This is nice reading! Really looking forward to getting them now, Louis wrote me an email and told me there would be pictures and shipping this week. Not sure how logistics will work out, if to be sent by boat or by air-
pstrisik; I really should not be your main source for taking decisions, but the amp I mentioned, worked well days and weeks and then all of the sudden BOOOOM, then worked ok for days and days then BOOM and there wasnt a pattern, well..yes scary
on the other hand; that was a much larger amp, 2x 100 watts, but I believe it blew the crap out of my speakers
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pstrisik,
Every Omega I have had has sounded great right out of the box; the break in period just improved what was already there, and my experience with Omega goes back to the hempcone days. I always had suitable upline gear in front of them, so I never have had any of the thinness of sound that some say they have. If the Omegas don't sound great out of the box, there is something wrong elsewhere in the system, so if you already have good upline gear you can go right at it.
If you start listening on an old solid state amp, you may be disappointed, as Omegas are thoroughbreds and require good upline gear, and your Dennis Had amp is surely that. You sound like the break in period is like a trip to the dentist; it doesn't have to be. I will use the reverse of your psychology: first impressions are the strongest, and the HK may mess with your mind.
You misunderstand. I won't have my Omegas for a few more weeks. I'll check out this amp this weekend in my existing system. I have no intention of listening to the Omegas with this amp.
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Oh ok. Then I wouldn't be to worried about it. Happy listening
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You misunderstand. I won't have my Omegas for a few more weeks. I'll check out this amp this weekend in my existing system. I have no intention of listening to the Omegas with this amp.
Phew, I'm relieved.
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Just got my tracking numbers from Louis for my pair of Super 7 XRS in zebrawood. It is shipping with the stock 7F drivers. He shipped a pair of 7A drivers in advance which I have broken in with ~100 hours. I will run those first and break in the 7F's for comparison second.
Woohoo!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99841)
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Congrats! :green:
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Very nice indeed. Enjoy the music. :D
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Hi pstrisick.
I own a pair of Omega 7F in a open baffle dipole configuration
and I would sure like to read your findings on both 7F and 7A.
I hope to read your comments soon.
Thanks.
Guy 13
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Thanks guys.... I am looking forward to comparing the 7A/7F. My understanding from Louis is that the 7A does more right in the mids, particularly with sound texture, but needs the whizzer cone for highs while the 7F does very well with highs and doesn't need the whizzer. We shall see!
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Well it might be difficult to be an audiophile in Alaska, but I bet it will be pretty nice with these.speakers and the Dennis.Had amps you got going.
Congrats with speakers, will be exciting to hear your impressions between the two drivers.
Greetings from my new apartment in Croatia. Beer is cheap, water is warm and the sky is blue. Why work one might ask
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Well it might be difficult to be an audiophile in Alaska, but I bet it will be pretty nice with these.speakers and the Dennis.Had amps you got going.
Congrats with speakers, will be exciting to hear your impressions between the two drivers.
Greetings from my new apartment in Croatia. Beer is cheap, water is warm and the sky is blue. Why work one might ask
Thanks Jorgen. Croatia? Wow! I hope, by warm water, you mean the Mediterranean and that your apartment is very close to it! And, of course, that you have your Omegas, et.al. with you. :wink:
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Heyheyhey
No I did not bring them with me, but you gave me an idea.. I will spend a few weeks here every year and could use a nice setup... How is life in Alaska?
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Life is great here. Spring has been like summer. Maybe global warming but, if so, it's tempting to fiddle while Rome burns! Down side is very little rain (great sunny clear days) and fires are worse than usual so far.
I'm glad I'm running low wattage for tubes though I never much thought about it before. I might start noticing if it gets above 80 much this summer - no air conditioning - never have needed it before.
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Life is great here. Spring has been like summer. Maybe global warming but, if so, it's tempting to fiddle while Rome burns! Down side is very little rain (great sunny clear days) and fires are worse than usual so far.
I'm glad I'm running low wattage for tubes though I never much thought about it before. I might start noticing if it gets above 80 much this summer - no air conditioning - never have needed it before.
Hi psrtisik.
If, it ain't easy being an audiophile in Alaska!
Can you image being an audiophile in hell or planet Vietnam,
it's the same thing.
Plus, here we have 95F most of the year.
I do have a (Small 12,000BTU) air conditioning unit in my listening room,
but I need a small silent floor standing fan to cool those hot like hell tubes
and more important, the electronics under the hood.
Without the precious help of a fan, those tubes units could be use to BBQ chicken.
I guess we are also feeling the global warming of the planet, especially this year.
You might be in a remote area, but you are still part of the United States of American, that helps.
Vietnam on, well planet Vietnam.
By the way, nice red hot little amplifier you've got.
Guy 13 in hell or planet Vietnam, it's about the same.
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Guy this is a cool image to refresh your summer:
(http://www.gazetadopovo.com.br/blogs/wp-content/uploads/sites/49/import/Mar_de_nuvens_no_canyon_Monte_Negro_em_Sao_Jose_dos_Ausentes_RS-624x414.jpg)
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Guy this is a cool image to refresh your summer:
(http://www.gazetadopovo.com.br/blogs/wp-content/uploads/sites/49/import/Mar_de_nuvens_no_canyon_Monte_Negro_em_Sao_Jose_dos_Ausentes_RS-624x414.jpg)
Thanks FULLRANGEMAN for your refreshing pictures, however, today it will take a lot more pictures, girls or whatever to cool me down with 93F.
If you have any more refreshing pictures, they are all welcome.
Thanks.
Guy 13
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Tracking indicated delivery Monday until yesterday when it was updated to Friday (tomorrow). Just in time for the weekend! :banana piano:
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Hi pstrisik,
Great news and that was pretty fast. I have the non whizzer drivers installed and these will be great for a smooth top little vintage sounding.
The alnico that you have is a very easy swap and no soldering. When you get them make sure the bases haven't shifted and check the bolts. I tightened them up really good and shrink wrapped the whole speaker.
Thanks again,
Louis
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Hi pstrisik,
Great news and that was pretty fast. I have the non whizzer drivers installed and these will be great for a smooth top little vintage sounding.
The alnico that you have is a very easy swap and no soldering. When you get them make sure the bases haven't shifted and check the bolts. I tightened them up really good and shrink wrapped the whole speaker.
Thanks again,
Louis
Hi Louis,
I picked them up at fedex today and have unpacked them. Absolutely beautiful! As others have said, pictures don't do them justice. Your veneer work is top notch. I'm very pleased with the grills also; they show off the wood in front nicely and look very balanced in size to my eyes.
I have the alnicos broken in and will swap those in right off the bat and will try the ferrites after breaking them in outside of the cabinets.
I've take photos of the unpacking - part of the excitement - but will also show how well you pack them for shipping. And, of course, I'll post photos of them in place, probably tomorrow.
One question.... you shipped them with a stuffer for the port. Is that just to either run them open or semi-sealed? I'm partial to sealed, but would think I'd really lose bass response. I'll try both ways, but just wanted to check with you about that.
Thank you!
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Hello pstrisik,
Glad you received your speakers safe and sound. The speaker can be run with or without the port plug.
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Hello pstrisik,
Glad you received your speakers safe and sound. The speaker can be run with or without the port plug.
Thanks Canada Rob,
I've just now gotten them set up and warming up softly with Jackson Browne. After I post this, I will sit, turn it up a bit, and have a listen!
Back tomorrow. (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/happy/22.gif)
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I got in about a half hour last night before bedtime and after the time necessary to do the setup. My AR2ax's I have temporarily just pushed to the wall, so that is not ideal. I am also in Phase I - listening with only the speakers changed. This means I am initially running with the Dennis Had Inspire LP-2 pre and conrad-johnson Premier 11A (70wpc push-pull). I will soon switch over to the 10wpc single ended Dennis Had Inspire KT150 amp but I first wanted to listen with only the one variable changed.
I have the 7A installed as they are broken in. I no longer have a good way to break in the 7F's separate from the system, so I will probably switch over to them after a bit and break them in within the system, then do more of a 7A/7F comparison.
Initial impressions are positive with reservation. I suspect my impression will move more positive with the single ended amp, which is what this is all about. Two qualities immediately were evident, though not unexpected: imaging is more real and soundstage bigger (together, that's one). I'm glad this was unequivocal and lives up to the reputation. The other is the midrange texture. Again, what I anticipated, but very glad to hear it is clearly there. Things like sounds from reeds, guitar strings (plucks and finger squeaks), voice and breath, are all more present with more facets to each sound, ie, "texture".
I am surprised at the quality of the bass. Playing without subs, it is clear that the bass range is there and with nice articulation, just not as loud as with subs or as the AR's without subs (three way with 10" woofers and known for good bass response).
The 7A is the alnico magnet with whizzer cone. Overall, there is a slight softness to the sound. Though when I listen in, I clearly hear details. That may just be something that is different and I can't say better or worse than I am used to yet. The other is a very slight edge that I didn't have with the AR's. They may need a bit more break-in and/or may need the single ended amp to really settle into that "just rightness". I am curious about the 7F's now as they will likely come forward a bit more, hopefully without any more edge than the 7A's.
Another factor, similar to my hopes with the single ended amp in the mix, is the right tube mix. I have done tube rolling tailored to the AR's and switching a tube or two may make all the difference in that slight edge. One more variable to try is blocking the port. That very well make some difference in the areas of my reservations. Given that I use two quality subs, this is a viable option.
The bottom line is that I am not at all discouraged by these caveats and greatly encouraged by the immediate improvements.
If you want some Omega porn (sorry Louis!), below are some photos of the unpacking and setup thus far. You can see my AR's pushed back. The red pieces are the Inspire LP-2 preamp and KT150 amp. Way over on the right is the CJ Pr11A and a Thorens turntable. Left side of the console is a Cary SLP-05 pre. Right side is an Onkyo 5508 pre/pro for the home theatre and for controlling the subs when in two channel mode. Source is a Cambridge Stream Magic 6 streaming flac from a Synology NAS. The streamer has their DAC Magic Plus built in. I've liked this DAC over several more expensive I have auditioned at home included W4S and Bel Canto 2.5. There is also a Sony BDP and a Dune Smart D1 that are mostly used for video.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100281)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100282)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100283)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100284)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100285)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100286)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100287)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100288)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100289)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100290)
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Hi pstrisik.
Just a few comments and for the same price, also a few questions.
About 35 years ago, I ad a pair of AR similar looking to yours.
The one that I had at that time were really not efficient,
they were sealed with a 10" woofer and a tweeter
(If my memory serves me well) and at the time, sound well to since, since I did not have discovered the joy of cross-over less speaker.
You said you had an Omega 7F, in what enclosure where they installed?
I know that the 7A are now installed in the new enclosure that you have just receiver from Louis.
Am I right by saying that the 7A are in the new enclosure and the 7F are in ? ? ?
May I ask you to clarify this and satisfy my curiosity.
What I can say it that even in a open baffle dipole arrangement my Omega 7F sounds incredible, lots of micro detail.
Musicians breathing, chairs cracking under the weight of the musicians, pages been turned, whispering, fingers swiping the guitar strings and much more.
I often find myself trying to hear sound and enjoying it, sounds that I never knew existed with my previous big/complicated cross-over.
Now, would my Omega 7F sound better in a proper enclosure ?
Maybe yes, maybe no, but right now I am satisfied with the result and I tell every music lover to go crossoverless , but not only crossoverless, but Omega crossoverless.
If you like to discover the sound instruments can make, go that way and one extra benefit, it cost less money to go that way.
I would sure make a good salesman for Omega because I believe in Louis products.
By the way, I did not buy the 7A because it did not fit my budget
and I have no intention of up-grading, because I am very happy with the sound
of my 7F.
Thanks for reading.
Guy 13
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Hi pstrisik.
Just a few comments and for the same price, also a few questions.
About 35 years ago, I ad a pair of AR similar looking to yours.
The one that I had at that time were really not efficient,
they were sealed with a 10" woofer and a tweeter
(If my memory serves me well) and at the time, sound well to since, since I did not have discovered the joy of cross-over less speaker.
You said you had an Omega 7F, in what enclosure where they installed?
I know that the 7A are now installed in the new enclosure that you have just receiver from Louis.
Am I right by saying that the 7A are in the new enclosure and the 7F are in ? ? ?
May I ask you to clarify this and satisfy my curiosity.
What I can say it that even in a open baffle dipole arrangement my Omega 7F sounds incredible, lots of micro detail.
Musicians breathing, chairs cracking under the weight of the musicians, pages been turned, whispering, fingers swiping the guitar strings and much more.
I often find myself trying to hear sound and enjoying it, sounds that I never knew existed with my previous big/complicated cross-over.
Now, would my Omega 7F sound better in a proper enclosure ?
Maybe yes, maybe no, but right now I am satisfied with the result and I tell every music lover to go crossoverless , but not only crossoverless, but Omega crossoverless.
If you like to discover the sound instruments can make, go that way and one extra benefit, it cost less money to go that way.
I would sure make a good salesman for Omega because I believe in Louis products.
By the way, I did not buy the 7A because it did not fit my budget
and I have no intention of up-grading, because I am very happy with the sound
of my 7F.
Thanks for reading.
Guy 13
Hello Guy,
I used to know all of the models of AR's from the early era -through mid 1970's, but no longer. I even had a pair of two way, 8" I think, AR's back in the 70's. Maybe AR4, not sure. I've restored my 2ax' with new foam surrounds, new tweeter and midrange level pots, upgraded crossover caps, a replacement dome tweeter recommended by the current AR restoration gurus, and refinish of the veneer. They are very fine speakers now. I will go out on a limb and say likely better than when they were new in 1973. But, they have crossovers and are only 87db sensitive and need more power than a low watt single ended design provides. Paired with the Conrad-Johnson 11A, they really do very well.
If you, or anyone else, is interested in AR's, there is a great user forum with the aforementioned restoration gurus participating at:
http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showforum=3.
As to your question about the 7A/7F situation..... I ordered the Super 7 XRS which comes with the 7F and ordered a pair of 7A in addition. Louis shipped the 7A's ahead and I broke them in with no cabinets. So the short answer is, one pair of cabs, two pairs of drivers.
By the way, from the label on the speakers (see photo in earlier post), it looks like Louis is using the name RS7 for what we have been calling 7F.
Update on my Omega listening............
Last night I switched over to the Dennis Had Inspire KT150 amp configured at 10 watts currently. I immediately knew this was a better match for the Omegas than the 70wpc CJ Pr11A. Any edge I perceived earlier is gone. Very smooth with all the imaging and "texture" gains I described earlier. There is much I can do in the way of dialing in the sound with positioning and toe in, tubes swaps, port stuffing, etc., but........
Being impatient, I switched the 7F's back in and will play them all day and do some sit down listening after about 8 hours of break in.
Stay tuned! (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/character1/29.gif)
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Hi Peter
You really got an exciting experiment going, maybe you don't get a favorit driver in the end, just a complimentary set to play with. Add the tube rolling possibilities and you are up for a challenge and no worry about with spare time. I see your speakers looks pretty much like mine, but "fatter"? The tag on back of my speakers says RS 7 btw.
Hope you are happy with them
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Hi Peter
You really got an exciting experiment going, maybe you don't get a favorit driver in the end, just a complimentary set to play with. Add the tube rolling possibilities and you are up for a challenge and no worry about with spare time. I see your speakers looks pretty much like mine, but "fatter"? The tag on back of my speakers says RS 7 btw.
Hope you are happy with them
Hi Jorgen,
Thanks! I'm sure I'll settle on one set of drivers after a while. I started listening to the RS7's and BAM!! It seems that I'm liking them better than the 7A's. We'll see if that holds. They just seem more alive and even across the frequencies. Imaging and what I call texture are still there.
I tried the port stuffers. I found that the imaging tightened up, but it sounded thinner, smaller. I'm back to port open. I have my subs playing to 60hz and I've got a nice, full sound.
Cheers!
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Hello Guy,
I used to know all of the models of AR's from the early era -through mid 1970's, but no longer. I even had a pair of two way, 8" I think, AR's back in the 70's. Maybe AR4, not sure. I've restored my 2ax' with new foam surrounds, new tweeter and midrange level pots, upgraded crossover caps, a replacement dome tweeter recommended by the current AR restoration gurus, and refinish of the veneer. They are very fine speakers now. I will go out on a limb and say likely better than when they were new in 1973. But, they have crossovers and are only 87db sensitive and need more power than a low watt single ended design provides. Paired with the Conrad-Johnson 11A, they really do very well.
If you, or anyone else, is interested in AR's, there is a great user forum with the aforementioned restoration gurus participating at:
http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showforum=3.
As to your question about the 7A/7F situation..... I ordered the Super 7 XRS which comes with the 7F and ordered a pair of 7A in addition. Louis shipped the 7A's ahead and I broke them in with no cabinets. So the short answer is, one pair of cabs, two pairs of drivers.
By the way, from the label on the speakers (see photo in earlier post), it looks like Louis is using the name RS7 for what we have been calling 7F.
Update on my Omega listening............
Last night I switched over to the Dennis Had Inspire KT150 amp configured at 10 watts currently. I immediately knew this was a better match for the Omegas than the 70wpc CJ Pr11A. Any edge I perceived earlier is gone. Very smooth with all the imaging and "texture" gains I described earlier. There is much I can do in the way of dialing in the sound with positioning and toe in, tubes swaps, port stuffing, etc., but........
Being impatient, I switched the 7F's back in and will play them all day and do some sit down listening after about 8 hours of break in.
Stay tuned! (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/character1/29.gif)
Hi (Again) pstrisik.
I will stay tune to your posts, that's for sure,
because I am really interesting in reading your impressions about the 7F in the bass reflex enclosure.
If according to your next write-up about the mids and bass is what I want to hear, I might go ahead and get a pair of enclosures made locally for 250 USD for my 7F that are now running open baffle.
A smaller footprint than what I have might be interesting, minds you I will keep my amplified open baffle subwoofer as I have some CD that really need earthquake style bass.
I am riveted to my computer screen waiting for your next post and won't have any rest or sleep until I read your impressions about those little jewels.
Guy 13
I like your little devil Tasmenia !
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Hi (Again) pstrisik.
I will stay tune to your posts, that's for sure,
because I am really interesting in reading your impressions about the 7F in the bass reflex enclosure.
If according to your next write-up about the mids and bass is what I want to hear, I might go ahead and get a pair of enclosures made locally for 250 USD for my 7F that are now running open baffle.
A smaller footprint than what I have might be interesting, minds you I will keep my amplified open baffle subwoofer as I have some CD that really need earthquake style bass.
I am riveted to my computer screen waiting for your next post and won't have any rest or sleep until I read your impressions about those little jewels.
Guy 13
I like your little devil Tasmenia !
Guy, Even if you get bass reflex enclosures, I would make use of subs if you already have them. My Pre/Pro's calibration using Audyssey XT32 set the xover at 60hz (that's for my home theater, I run the Omegas full range for two channel). It set the xover for my AR's at 40hz. The Omegas do have bass, just not loud. The bass that is there is clear and musical though.
I don't know if it is valid reasoning, but here goes... My experience going from open port to closed port is tighter imaging but thinner sound. So to reverse this.... going from closed port to open port makes for a fuller sound (likely some increased bass response) but slightly less tight image (also resulting in a bit fuller sound stage). Maybe going from open port to open baffle would make for fuller sound yet though with further diffusion of the imaging. If this rationale is valid, it may be that the ported cabinet is the Goldilocks "just right!"
I'm favoring the RS7 over the 7A thus far. It is likely I will only like it more as it breaks in (the 7A is already broken in). The only turnaround I could foresee is if the "aliveness" of the RS7 becomes a bit fatiguing and the 7A becomes more the long term "just right". Remains to be seen. Probably not though as I have all the dialing in to do with positioning and tube rolling, and I've got some good sound to start the tweaking with.
I will let them play while at work this week and over night, so I should accumulate fifty hours of play pretty quickly.
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My experience going from open port to closed port is tighter imaging but thinner sound.
Did you adjust the sub x-o to compensate?
Lin
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Did you adjust the sub x-o to compensate?
Lin
I did. I think it is something more about tightness of image vs. filling the space more than it is about frequency. I'll likely visit it again after a bit and see if I experience the same thing. What is your experience with this variable - particularly given your screen name? :)
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By the way, from the label on the speakers (see photo in earlier post), it looks like Louis is using the name RS7 for what we have been calling 7F.
The RS7 and the 7F are different drivers.
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The RS7 and the 7F are different drivers.
Oh! Thanks Canada Rob. I've been talking to Louis in terms of 7A/7F but the speakers came with the label indicating RS7. What is the difference? I'll email Louis for clarification about what I did get.
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Those are beautiful!!! :thumb:
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The RS7 and the 7F are different drivers.
Yes I was wondering about that since the label on my speakers also says RS7 and mine are alnico drivers.
But it would be cool to learn more about difference though..
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Yes I was wondering about that since the label on my speakers also says RS7 and mine are alnico drivers.
But it would be cool to learn more about difference though..
Mine say RS7 too!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=94965)
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Hi pstrisik,
Many thanks for the great posts and first the most important is the sound and very pleased you are enjoying the new speakers. It's great following the posts and lots of fun going through the drivers. They are similar, but they also have their own sound. The cabinets come out great and Zebrawood with the black bases are a great combo just like Jorgen's speakers. I have installed inserts on the bottom of the main cabinet so you can also have the bases off and still have the tilt.
Sorry about the driver confusion and here is how it ended up.
There is no more DIY drivers so the Model 7A and F and the model 5F are gone in name.
The RS7's are ferrite and the difference is the cone and the surround. Going forward I will call all the 7's RS7's. The alnico's are Model 7A's at the moment. I'm working on changing the cone and surround on them too. My mistake for labeling Jorgen's speakers RS7's, I apologize for that. I will gladly swap your speakers Jorgen when the RS7 A's are done.
Going forward I can have an option on drivers in the 7 Series. I think it will be quite fun and you can driver swap sort of like tube rolling.
When done the drivers are
RS7A for Alnico
RS7F for Ferrite
RS7V for whizzerless Ferrite like pstrisik and beowulf
The Whizzerless is really sweet sounding and vintage sounding. Smooth smooth smooth, not as much top end though. I tried with the Alnico and too rolled off as compared to the Ferrite.
Great to hear about the Dennis Had amp and another great choice out there which is important. They look fantastic too.
Thanks again,
Louis
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Hi Louis,
The RS7A Alnico wil be avaliable as raw driver for DIY??
I had PM you some months ago.
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Hi Louis,
Thanks for the clarification. So it sounds like I have (or will have when the names get settled) RS7V and RS7A. So the tag is accurate in a more generic way - that is, I have two sets of RS7's in their respective variants. Correct me if I got that wrong.
I was a bit neurotic about the base when we talked. It was hard to visualize the tilt and base from photos - the tilt is gentler looking at the bottom than I imagined. But glad to have the option none the less. I was neurotic about the grill size and placement too, but that turned out to be totally worth it! Thank you for your patience!
........Peter
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Going forward I can have an option on drivers in the 7 Series. I think it will be quite fun and you can driver swap sort of like tube rolling.
When done the drivers are
RS7A for Alnico
RS7F for Ferrite
RS7V for whizzerless Ferrite like pstrisik and beowulf
The Whizzerless is really sweet sounding and vintage sounding. Smooth smooth smooth, not as much top end though. I tried with the Alnico and too rolled off as compared to the Ferrite.
Hi Louis, thanks for the clarification on the drivers. Am I right in thinking that no more DIY drivers, however we can still buy different drivers for Omega speakers that you have already built? That's a great concept, since the cabinet's already steller, I wouldn't mind trying a set of RS7F and RS7A's. Is there a price list for these drivers anywhere?
Thanks!!!
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Hi Louis.
What a great idea.
Speaker rolling, like tube rolling.
By the way, never got the answer to my question and the dimensions for my 7F,
but that's O.K. I am happy with what I have.
Keep up the good work.
Guy 13
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Hey, I feel like I started this
tube driver rolling thing. But I'm sure there had to be someone before me. I could have my 15 minutes of fame! (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/cool/31.gif)
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Hey, I feel like I started this tube driver rolling thing. But I'm sure there had to be someone before me. I could have my 15 minutes of fame! (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/cool/31.gif)
Hi pstrisik.
Maybe you are not the first one, but you are on the way to be the most famous one
and will be remembered for centuries to come.
Keep posting, I love your stuff.
Guy 13
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Hi pstrisik.
Maybe you are not the first one, but you are on the way to be the most famous one
and will be remembered for centuries to come.
Keep posting, I love your stuff.
Guy 13
When the time comes, I shall now die in peace, confident in my legacy. (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/rolleye/16.gif)
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Hi pstrisik,
I see I'm a bit late in posting this but those speakers are gorgeous! And I'm officially jealous :) In my, admittedly excessive, arsenal of loudspeakers I have a pair of WLM Diva Monitor in that very same Zebrano finish (though I suspect your new speakers have the edge on the WLMs, in terms of tonal purity). There's just something about classic loudspeaker proportions wrapped in Zebrano.
Can't wait for more new stuff from Louis!
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Sorry to rain on your parade gentlemen. Louis and I had a conversation and he admitted he got little ahead of himself concerning the "speaker rolling". Sorry Peter, just when you are on the verge of fame, to have it snatched away. :bawl:
The Super 7XRS and Monitor will be offered with either ferrite whizzerless or ferrite whizzer at the same price, and a $300 upcharge per pair for alnico whizzer. The choice must be made at the original purchase of the speakers. The drivers are all OEM and not re-cycled DIY drivers. Omega is not in the DIY business, and not likely to ever be.
The focus right now are the Paramount line, Omega Store products, and the new website which will have the Omega Store on it.
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Sorry to rain on your parade gentlemen. Louis and I had a conversation and he admitted he got little ahead of himself concerning the "speaker rolling". Sorry Peter, just when you are on the verge of fame, to have it snatched away. :bawl:
The Super 7XRS and Monitor will be offered with either ferrite whizzerless or ferrite whizzer at the same price, and a $300 upcharge per pair for alnico whizzer. The choice must be made at the original purchase of the speakers. The drivers are all OEM and not re-cycled DIY drivers. Omega is not in the DIY business, and not likely to ever be.
The focus right now are the Paramount line, Omega Store products, and the new website which will have the Omega Store on it.
Oh, dear. Back to my life of existential angst! (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/animal/11.gif)
.
........Peter
-
Sorry to rain on your parade gentlemen. Louis and I had a conversation and he admitted he got little ahead of himself concerning the "speaker rolling". Sorry Peter, just when you are on the verge of fame, to have it snatched away. :bawl:
The Super 7XRS and Monitor will be offered with either ferrite whizzerless or ferrite whizzer at the same price, and a $300 upcharge per pair for alnico whizzer. The choice must be made at the original purchase of the speakers. The drivers are all OEM and not re-cycled DIY drivers. Omega is not in the DIY business, and not likely to ever be.
The focus right now are the Paramount line, Omega Store products, and the new website which will have the Omega Store on it.
Ugh ... seriously? I was really going to purchase a set of Alnico AND Ferrites with Whizzers to try them all out :cry:! As I understand it, the drivers are pretty much plug and play correct? Anyways, well I'll have to wait and see about the Paramounts and a Trade-in still may be in effect correct? I think I'm wanting something with a little more top end to see how I like them. And the driver rolling concept would have given me the best of both worlds as I really like the size, shape and veneers of my cabinets.
-
Hi pstrisik,
Many thanks for the great posts and first the most important is the sound and very pleased you are enjoying the new speakers. It's great following the posts and lots of fun going through the drivers. They are similar, but they also have their own sound. The cabinets come out great and Zebrawood with the black bases are a great combo just like Jorgen's speakers. I have installed inserts on the bottom of the main cabinet so you can also have the bases off and still have the tilt.
Sorry about the driver confusion and here is how it ended up.
There is no more DIY drivers so the Model 7A and F and the model 5F are gone in name.
The RS7's are ferrite and the difference is the cone and the surround. Going forward I will call all the 7's RS7's. The alnico's are Model 7A's at the moment. I'm working on changing the cone and surround on them too. My mistake for labeling Jorgen's speakers RS7's, I apologize for that. I will gladly swap your speakers Jorgen when the RS7 A's are done.
Going forward I can have an option on drivers in the 7 Series. I think it will be quite fun and you can driver swap sort of like tube rolling.
When done the drivers are
RS7A for Alnico
RS7F for Ferrite
RS7V for whizzerless Ferrite like pstrisik and beowulf
The Whizzerless is really sweet sounding and vintage sounding. Smooth smooth smooth, not as much top end though. I tried with the Alnico and too rolled off as compared to the Ferrite.
Great to hear about the Dennis Had amp and another great choice out there which is important. They look fantastic too.
Thanks again,
Louis
Hi Louis, Canada Rob and all
Wrote you an email Louis, but might as well post here aswell, no worries with the labeling, no need to apologize at all. I am a little curious on how the RS7A would be compared to the ones I got. I sort of enjoy having a set of speakers with the "Omega handprints" all over them, so it would be cool to have the most Omega "infected" drivers as well, it makes them even more special in my eyes. That said, the speakers i got now are very very nice in how they sound and I couldnt ask for more, but then, of course if Omega seriously thinks the RS7A is an upgrade, a swap or something would be a cool thing, very nice of you to come with that suggestion/offer. I hope we can talk this through in the email I sent
Another thing; looking at yours Pstrisik i wonder what would happen if I gave my speaker a tilt? Anybody who would like to speculate? I guess it could be done, just for fun, just add something under the forward spike. Dont know if there is a building difference between mine and yours Pstrisik, except for size (how many liters are yours exactly) and the tilt?
I guess and hope you atleast could be known as the driver rolling champ of Alaska...
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Hi Louis, Canada Rob and all
Wrote you an email Louis, but might as well post here as well, no worries with the labeling, no need to apologize at all. I am a little curious on how the RS7A would be compared to the ones I got. I sort of enjoy having a set of speakers with the "Omega hand prints" all over them, so it would be cool to have the most Omega "infected" drivers as well, it makes them even more special in my eyes. That said, the speakers i got now are very very nice in how they sound and I couldn't ask for more, but then, of course if Omega seriously thinks the RS7A is an upgrade, a swap or something would be a cool thing, very nice of you to come with that suggestion/offer. I hope we can talk this through in the email I sent
Another thing; looking at yours Pstrisik i wonder what would happen if I gave my speaker a tilt? Anybody who would like to speculate? I guess it could be done, just for fun, just add something under the forward spike. Don't know if there is a building difference between mine and yours Pstrisik, except for size (how many liters are yours exactly) and the tilt?
I guess and hope you at least could be known as the driver rolling champ of Alaska...
Hi Jorgen,
Driver rolling champ of Alaska....... Well, I'd have to find someone to compete with. I might be in a field of one!
I don't know the volume of my cabinet. It is 32 x 14 x 9 ½, so could be calculated if you can convert cubic inches to liters. :o You could compare measurements at least. Edit: Ok, I tried it. 4256 cubic inches = 69.7433 liters according to an online conversion calculator. Does that sound right?
As far as tilt, how tall is yours? I recall you said the baffle wasn't as wide, so maybe yours is taller? That and seating position would determine best tilt angle. Try first just by putting something under the front spike to test it out. Actually, last night I put about 1/2" lift in the back of mine to reduce the tilt slightly as my seating position is low I think. In any case, I am finding that these Omegas are very sensitive to positioning. Fairly dramatic difference in smoothness and in imaging with changes in toe in, distance from front wall and tilt.
I am now also curious about the newer version of the RS7A as it seems we are in the same situation with the Super 7 XRS and same Alnico driver.
........Peter
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Hi Canada Rob.
Thanks for the additional explanation.
I've started to celebrate as soon as the Omega 7F (OEM) drivers let out their first note of music.
By the way, I never really believe in burn-in, especially cables (Speakers and Interconnects) but for drivers,
I was always a little skeptical, well even if the improvement in SQ was not that great to my 66 years old ears,
I have to admit that now after more than 100 hours of vibrating in and out,
the sound seems to be a little better, compare to the first time,
but they are sounding exceptionally good today
and I don't know why there are not more people going that way,
the crossover less way that is.
At less than 500 USD for Louis smallest speaker, what to you have to loose,
try it and if his speaker is not your cup of tea, you can always resell it quite fast,
there is always someone interested in superior sounding speakers.
Guy 13
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Progress report:
The RS7F's have 50+ hours now. Last night I switched back in the RS7A's. What I feared turned out to be true; the "liveliness" of the 7F's ended up feeling a bit hard on my ears. Listening to the 7A's, I turned a corner. Much easier on the ears and they do in fact have more of that "texture" quality and what I would call, "finesse". I will probably do one more switch back in a week to make double sure. But if the 7F's don't sound better to me on the next switch, I will put them on the market and consider my Super 7 XRS with alnico's the final product.
Not to get too hyperbolic (I think that's close to an oxymoron), but listening last night was one of those rare times of letting go of the pursuit and saying to myself, "if changes stopped here, I would be very happy". But changes do not stop here. :nono: Time for some tube rolling in my Dennis Had Inspire KT150 amp. Without needing to bias, I can roll among KT150 power tubes (what it came with) and 6550, KT120, KT90, KT88, EL34, 6L6, 6V6, on and on. I have several of these to start with. Fortunately, this single ended amp only requires a pair of power tubes, so much less expensive to roll with than push pull amps that use four or more. Power decreases with other tubes.
Here are my possibilities:
* 5 watts per channel output with 6V6 output tubes and 5Y3 rectifier tube
* 7 watts per channel with 6L6, KT66, 5881 output tubes and 5U4 rectifier tube
* 10 watts output with KT88, EL34, 6550, KT99, KT120, KT150 output tubes with 5U4, 274B rectifier tube
* 12 watts output with KT-88, KT-120 or KT150 output tubes and 5AR4 rectifier tube
I love this amp and the LP-2 pre that matches it. I'm heading towards loving the Omegas just as much. My wife is jealous that I feel affection towards these pieces. (NB: I do consider myself an audiophile, but not an audiophiliac despite these feelings of affection! (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/love/50.gif) )
. .........Peter
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92884)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99627)
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The Super 7XRS and Monitor will be offered with either ferrite whizzerless or ferrite whizzer at the same price, and a $300 upcharge per pair for alnico whizzer. The choice must be made at the original purchase of the speakers. The drivers are all OEM and not re-cycled DIY drivers. Omega is not in the DIY business, and not likely to ever be.
So for the benefit of the gentleman who just purchased my DIY Omega 7A drivers (as well as any others out there who currently own them) you are now saying that your latest and greatest Omega speakers are built using this same identical driver, but are now called the RS7A driver. Do I have it right? Very confusing.....
gab
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So for the benefit of the gentleman who just purchased my DIY Omega 7A drivers (as well as any others out there who currently own them) you are now saying that your latest and greatest Omega speakers are built using this same identical driver, but are now called the RS7A driver. Do I have it right? Very confusing.....
gab
Correct. In case you didn't notice, there was an apology for all the confusion. What are you still confused about, gab?
Whoever (maybe FULLRANGEMAN) got your drivers was the winner.
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I just got off the phone with Louis and found out I had misunderstood him - my fault.
The RS7A is a re-badged 7A. Same speaker.
The DIY 7F, both whizzered and whizzerless ARE different drivers than the RS7 both whizzered and whizzerless. They always have been different right from the beginning.
There is no need to worry that you have an inferior product if you have DIY drivers, because you don't. They're just different. In all my years dealing with Louis, he has never made a dud. Never.
The latest and greatest from Louis will be 12" subwoofers and his Paramount line. He is one of the very few speaker manufacturers that has his own drivers.
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I just got off the phone with Louis and found out I had misunderstood him - my fault.
The RS7A is a re-badged 7A. Same speaker.
The DIY 7F, both whizzered and whizzerless ARE different drivers than the RS7 both whizzered and whizzerless. They always have been different right from the beginning.
There is no need to worry that you have an inferior product if you have DIY drivers, because you don't. They're just different. In all my years dealing with Louis, he has never made a dud. Never.
The latest and greatest from Louis will be 12" subwoofers and his Paramount line. He is one of the very few speaker manufacturers that has his own drivers.
Rob, Sorry to belabor this. So, it seems I do have the RS7A, but I am unclear about the F I have that came with the Super 7. Is it RS7F as the label on the cab says or 7F as Louis and I referred to it during the order? Either way is ok, I'd just like to know what I have.
Thanks.......Peter
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Rob, Sorry to belabor this. So, it seems I do have the RS7A, but I am unclear about the F I have that came with the Super 7. Is it RS7F as the label on the cab says or 7F as Louis and I referred to it during the order? Either way is ok, I'd just like to know what I have.
Thanks.......Peter
You have an RS7V whizzerless. "V" stands for vintage.
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You have an RS7V whizzerless. "V" stands for vintage.
Got it! Thank you.
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Last night I discovered the Super 7 XRS with alnico driver is indeed capable of bass. I tried EL34 tubes for the first time. Boy do they produce more bass than other tubes I've tried and the Omegas express it.
I tried KT90(KT99) and wasn't impressed on first try. I'm moving through my tube on hand options pretty quickly and will then go back and focus in more.
6550 next, then the lower power option (6V6).
........Peter
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I like EL34s... I have a bunch of them. :green:
I would go with NOS, new aren't even close imo... I don't have any high $$$ ones but Winged C and Mullard xf3s are great. The new GL kt77 is good too but probably not nearly as reliable.
Hoping to pick up the Sylvania big bottles soon too.
In the next 6 months or so I will be putting an EL34 SET amp on the market with an all-film-cap power supply, copper foil coupling caps and 4 separate high voltage power supplies. It is intended to be a big step up from Decware and the like but still come in reasonably priced. Going for about double the price of Decware's EL34 SET...
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I like EL34s... I have a bunch of them. :green:
I would go with NOS, new aren't even close imo... I don't have any high $$$ ones but Winged C and Mullard xf3s are great. The new GL kt77 is good too but probably not nearly as reliable.
Hoping to pick up the Sylvania big bottles soon too.
In the next 6 months or so I will be putting an EL34 SET amp on the market with an all-film-cap power supply, copper foil coupling caps and 4 separate high voltage power supplies. It is intended to be a big step up from Decware and the like but still come in reasonably priced. Going for about double the price of Decware's EL34 SET...
Would be interested in hearing more about this, please keep us informed!
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I like EL34s... I have a bunch of them. :green:
I would go with NOS, new aren't even close imo... I don't have any high $$$ ones but Winged C and Mullard xf3s are great. The new GL kt77 is good too but probably not nearly as reliable.
It's the Winged C E34 that I have. :beer:
.......Peter
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Does anyone know, or can Louis or Rob provide, the sensitivity ratings of the RS7A and RS7F? The 6.5" alnico driver on the website is rated at 93db, but I think it is a different driver.
Thanks......Peter
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The back of your speakers say 95dB.
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The back of your speakers say 95dB.
(http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/other1/53.gif)
Thank you.... duh!
Though that's for the RS7V. Still curious about the RS7A. Same or lower?
Thx .......
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Lower for the 7A by a couple dB would be my guess.
If you could post your experiences with different tube types that would be cool to hear. I have used KT88/6550 in my amp too and it sounds a little more "hi-fi", I still like the EL34 best, not counting DHTs. I'm not sure I even want to attempt make my amp compatible with other tube types, would be nice to avoid added complexity or compromises.
I am interested in the KT150 as more power is always welcome. :icon_twisted:
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Thank you.... duh!
Though that's for the RS7V. Still curious about the RS7A. Same or lower?
Thx .......
The RS7A is 93dB. It is also a completely different driver than the 6.5" HempCone alnico driver.
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The RS7A is 93dB. It is also a completely different driver than the 6.5" HempCone alnico driver.
Thanks Rob. I'm running the RS7A's, so it's helpful to have a sense of that variable.
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Hi pstrisik
When I bought my alnicos Louis said they would be a conservative 93db sensitive, and also very effiecient, which also is a factor for how they play- not sure how that is measured though, but I understood that to be a relevant factor for SPL amd how they would perform.
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Hi pstrisik
When I bought my alnicos Louis said they would be a conservative 93db sensitive, and also very effiecient, which also is a factor for how they play- not sure how that is measured though, but I understood that to be a relevant factor for SPL amd how they would perform.
Thanks Jorgen, I don't know how much real world difference there is between the 95 and 93db. I haven't noticed any change in volume settings when I've switched drivers. But then, I wasn't looking for any at the time.
Progress report.......
Had been running KT150 power tubes in my Inspire amp for 10wpc. Also at 10wpc I've tried Winged C EL34, Ei KT90/KT99 and Tung-Sol 6550. Nothing special experienced with the KT90 and 6550. The EL34 had exceptional bass. Went back to KT150's and felt this was still the most natural over all. But.......
Then I tried the Pope 6V6's for 5wpc and, (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/happy/42.gif) , everything has changed. I hope I don't eat my words later, but this sound was amazing. I'm still getting confident about the lower power. I feel vulnerability about the possibility of distortion or breakup, but I think it is psychological since I've never run with less than 10wpc before these. They compete very well with the EL34's in bass, but out do them everywhere else. The proverbial hearing things I haven't heard before in familiar recordings while managing to come off smoother and less fatiguing than anything I've had yet. The Omegas shine all the more when fed a signal like this! I think this is now the tube to beat (for me).
.......Peter
P.S. - @beowolf, We watched a show last night (New Girl, if it matters). As I've said, I have a pre/pro in front of the Inspire amp when watching video and cross over at 70-90db to subs to lessen the demand on the Omegas (2 channel music the Omegas run full range with subs to supplement). The Omegas did fine with the 5wpc in this setup. I don't know how it would be running them full range for video though. And this was with a sitcom type show. I should try a movie with loud effects to really see how it does.
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Thanks Jorgen, I don't know how much real world difference there is between the 95 and 93db. I haven't noticed any change in volume settings when I've switched drivers. But then, I wasn't looking for any at the time.
Progress report.......
Had been running KT150 power tubes in my Inspire amp for 10wpc. Also at 10wpc I've tried Winged C EL34, Ei KT90/KT99 and Tung-Sol 6550. Nothing special experienced with the KT90 and 6550. The EL34 had exceptional bass. Went back to KT150's and felt this was still the most natural over all. But.......
Then I tried the Pope 6V6's for 5wpc and, (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/happy/42.gif) , everything has changed. I hope I don't eat my words later, but this sound was amazing. I'm still getting confident about the lower power. I feel vulnerability about the possibility of distortion or breakup, but I think it is psychological since I've never run with less than 10wpc before these. They compete very well with the EL34's in bass, but out do them everywhere else. The proverbial hearing things I haven't heard before in familiar recordings while managing to come off smoother and less fatiguing than anything I've had yet. The Omegas shine all the more when fed a signal like this! I think this is now the tube to beat (for me).
.......Peter
P.S. - @beowolf, We watched a show last night (New Girl, if it matters). As I've said, I have a pre/pro in front of the Inspire amp when watching video and cross over at 70-90db to subs to lessen the demand on the Omegas (2 channel music the Omegas run full range with subs to supplement). The Omegas did fine with the 5wpc in this setup. I don't know how it would be running them full range for video though. And this was with a sitcom type show. I should try a movie with loud effects to really see how it does.
Thanks for the update Peter. When I use the Decware Taboo for music the loudness was fine, but for some reason movies especially quiet dialog scenes (which seems strange, but for some reason explosions and action sequences seemed more ok...?) the Taboo just did not have enough juice and that's with the RS7V's @ 95dB. The Decware Taboo needs 2.5v for maximum output and my source (Rega DAC) was shy of that at 2.1v. Now that I have a Preamp in front of the Taboo with a gain of exactly 2.5v the Taboo really opened up and I have a lot of headroom for all my volume needs. So much so that I can't help wondering if I have enough juice to run the Alnico's now and how they would sound :icon_twisted:, but of course there's always that thought in the back of my head that is saying it was frustrating not having enough headroom as before so I should stick with the ferrites.
I'm patiently waiting for more info on the Paramounts and maybe one day (if budget allows) I will be able to upgrade to a 2.1 Paramount setup. One thing for sure is that no matter what Omega driver one is using you can expect amazing sound quality and no doubt one of the best bang for the buck speakers out there!
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Roger that!
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"One thing for sure is that no matter what Omega driver one is using you can expect amazing sound quality and no doubt one of the best bang for the buck speakers out there!"
I so emphatically agree!
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"One thing for sure is that no matter what Omega driver one is using you can expect amazing sound quality and no doubt one of the best bang for the buck speakers out there!"
I so emphatically agree!
:thumb:
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Hi all.
A lot of audiophiles wont buy or even try to listen to point source, extended range, crossover less drivers mainly because most of them have a pronounce peak around 2-5KHz, but I can say that Louis took care of that problem with his drivers, to a point that it's almost non-existent.
If I went with the open baffle dipole arrangement with Louis driver, it's because it was inexpensive to evaluate his drivers and I like the open baffle arrangement.
His bookshelves units are inexpensive (500 USD) if you want to try the point source driver and in the eventuality that you don't like them, (Which could happen, but I dought) you can always re-sell it at almost the same price you have paid.
Stop looking for the best of the best and try them.
Guy 13
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Thanks Jorgen, I don't know how much real world difference there is between the 95 and 93db. I haven't noticed any change in volume settings when I've switched drivers. But then, I wasn't looking for any at the time.
Progress report.......
Had been running KT150 power tubes in my Inspire amp for 10wpc. Also at 10wpc I've tried Winged C EL34, Ei KT90/KT99 and Tung-Sol 6550. Nothing special experienced with the KT90 and 6550. The EL34 had exceptional bass. Went back to KT150's and felt this was still the most natural over all. But.......
Then I tried the Pope 6V6's for 5wpc and, (http://smiley.nowdararpour.ir/happy/42.gif) , everything has changed. I hope I don't eat my words later, but this sound was amazing. I'm still getting confident about the lower power. I feel vulnerability about the possibility of distortion or breakup, but I think it is psychological since I've never run with less than 10wpc before these. They compete very well with the EL34's in bass, but out do them everywhere else. The proverbial hearing things I haven't heard before in familiar recordings while managing to come off smoother and less fatiguing than anything I've had yet. The Omegas shine all the more when fed a signal like this! I think this is now the tube to beat (for me).
.......Peter
Cool, thanks. I have not tried the 6V6 yet either, I think my amp runs too hot for them but I could use them with a minor change or two.
I take it your amp runs in UL mode? Can you switch it to triode mode? If so I would encourage you to try it, triode mode is more natural sounding imo. Even if there is no switch it could be done internally pretty easily.
The extra power in UL mode is nice, but not strictly necessary, 5 w seems to run the RS5 close to it's limits and I'd guess the 7 can't handle too much more but IDK, it is best Louis doesn't give away too much info as his drivers are world class AND relatively inexpensive. You could put his drivers in fancy boxes and sell them for 5 figures easy.
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Cool, thanks. I have not tried the 6V6 yet either, I think my amp runs too hot for them but I could use them with a minor change or two.
I take it your amp runs in UL mode? Can you switch it to triode mode? If so I would encourage you to try it, triode mode is more natural sounding imo. Even if there is no switch it could be done internally pretty easily.
The extra power in UL mode is nice, but not strictly necessary, 5 w seems to run the RS5 close to it's limits and I'd guess the 7 can't handle too much more but IDK, it is best Louis doesn't give away too much info as his drivers are world class AND relatively inexpensive. You could put his drivers in fancy boxes and sell them for 5 figures easy.
There's a lot of technicals that I am not versed in. UL vs. triode mode, for example, I associate with push pull amps - is that true? Mine is a single ended pentode design. No switch, no biasing despite the wide range of tubes it can use.
.........Peter
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Ok, that makes sense.... so your amp is a SEP (Single Ended Pentode) and not a SET (SE Triode). Basically, pentodes have 2 additional "grids", more info if you care:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentode
So you get double the power using the tube as a pentode vs triode, UL operation accomplishes increasing the power to similar levels as pentode operation using positive feedback from the OPTs to the control screen.
It may be possible to operate your amp in triode mode too, but it is less likely than if it was a UL amp.
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Ok, that makes sense.... so your amp is a SEP (Single Ended Pentode) and not a SET (SE Triode). Basically, pentodes have 2 additional "grids", more info if you care:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentode
So you get double the power using the tube as a pentode vs triode, UL operation accomplishes increasing the power to similar levels as pentode operation using positive feedback from the OPTs to the control screen.
It may be possible to operate your amp in triode mode too, but it is less likely than if it was a UL amp.
I'm not going to mess with Dennis Had's design. He is one of the masters in tube amp design and I trust his expertise. It does give me the freedom to roll with a very, very wide range of tubes though, so experimentation is underway in that regard!
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For sure, I would not mess with it unless Dennis gives his blessing. On some amps you can switch between operating modes with the flip of a switch, but pentode mode requires a bit more complexity than UL mode and it is likely the amp was designed only for pentode operation. In any case, it sounds like a very nice amp. :thumb:
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Hi all
Got a question for you. A friend of mine got a Audiomat prelude amp. (Please read up for more info)
What would you recommend for speakers in a semi large room. I guess they would explain they're listening habits as every day use. Not intensive listening
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Hello jorgen,
The Prelude uses EL34 tubes. My experience with EL34s is they are warmer and more laid back than the other octal based tubes I have heard.
In a semi large room I would recommend the Super 7XRS with RS7 (ferrite). If the amp can roll tubes and he can go to 6550, 6L6, 6N3CE, etc. then I would look at the same speaker but with the RS7A (alnico) driver. If the listening was more intensive, I would go to the Alnico XRS.
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Ok, that makes sense.... so your amp is a SEP (Single Ended Pentode) and not a SET (SE Triode). Basically, pentodes have 2 additional "grids", more info if you care:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentode
So you get double the power using the tube as a pentode vs triode, UL operation accomplishes increasing the power to similar levels as pentode operation using positive feedback from the OPTs to the control screen.
It may be possible to operate your amp in triode mode too, but it is less likely than if it was a UL amp.
UltraLinear (UL) operation uses negative not positive feedback from the output transformer to feed the screen grid. The advantage is lower output impedance and better linearity than either a triode or pentode. Output power is closer to the pentode than the triode mode depending on the percentage of the tap which is typically 40%. The Music Reference RM-9 is ultralinear.
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The latest and greatest from Louis will be 12" subwoofers and his Paramount line. He is one of the very few speaker manufacturers that has his own drivers.
Not to hijack but would someone be kind enough to post a link to a thread for info on what the new paramount line is. Id also be curious to know if the recent thread with the built in subwoofer is a custom one off, or is going into production…..
thanks
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Not to hijack but would someone be kind enough to post a link to a thread for info on what the new paramount line is. Id also be curious to know if the recent thread with the built in subwoofer is a custom one off, or is going into production…..
thanks
Hello kbuzz3,
When we are closer to finalizing the Paramount line, there will information about it. It will be Omega's top of the line. The info about the combi speaker is on this thread: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=126921.0 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=126921.0)
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Pstrisik wrote
I don't know the volume of my cabinet. It is 32 x 14 x 9 ½, so could be calculated if you can convert cubic inches to liters. :o You could compare measurements at least. Edit: Ok, I tried it. 4256 cubic inches = 69.7433 liters according to an online conversion calculator.
Uhm, no there must something wrong somewhereI think, difference between our speakers are that yours are 3" wider and mine 3"taller I think, and I don't think that would make the volume of your speakers so much bigger as 37 liters, mine are "only"32. Could be Louis are referring to the net to volume or something.
I am now also curious about the newer version of the RS7A as it seems we are in the same situation with the Super 7 XRS and same Alnico driver.
........Peter
[/quote]
Sure would like to at least hear what differneces would be between the two versions of the 7"alnico when they are done. If Louis believe it will be noticeable and worth some sort of trade in or , as he says, swap of course I will do that.
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Pstrisik wrote
I don't know the volume of my cabinet. It is 32 x 14 x 9 ½, so could be calculated if you can convert cubic inches to liters. :o You could compare measurements at least. Edit: Ok, I tried it. 4256 cubic inches = 69.7433 liters according to an online conversion calculator.
Uhm, no there must something wrong somewhere I think, difference between our speakers are that yours are 3" wider and mine 3"taller I think, and I don't think that would make the volume of your speakers so much bigger as 37 liters, mine are "only"32. Could be Louis are referring to the net to volume or something.
I am now also curious about the newer version of the RS7A as it seems we are in the same situation with the Super 7 XRS and same Alnico driver.
........Peter
Sure would like to at least hear what differences would be between the two versions of the 7"alnico when they are done. If Louis believe it will be noticeable and worth some sort of trade in or , as he says, swap of course I will do that.
Hi Jorgen,
I'm not sure what you mean by the differences in the alnico drivers. Now that we've sorted out what's what, do you mean the difference between the RS7A and the 6" Hempcone Alnico? If so, I don't think they are interchangeable without cabinet modification given the difference size and bolt pattern. Otherwise, I think we established that the 7A and RS7A are the same driver (that is, we have the RS7A).
Regarding the cab volume.. I redid my calculations and got the same thing, so maybe I'm doing something wrong. Anyone know what the volume in liters is for 32" x 14" x 9.5"? I just multiplied the dimensions for 4256 cubic inches and converted to liters with an online calculator. Even if we are talking inside dimensions instead of outside, I wouldn't think the difference would be almost double.
And completely off topic..... We just aborted watching the TV series Lillyhammer as it got a bit too negative. It was fun while it lasted. Fun watching Springsteen's guitarist excel in acting. Unfortunately though, it seemed to portray Norwegians in a bad light. How has it been received over there?
.........Peter
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When you calculating cabinet volume you need to subtract the space used for bracing, and in the case of some of Louis' designs, the sand that he uses. Also, you need to know the thickness of the walls. Unless you open up your speakers and really take a look at what's inside, you won't truly be able to calculate the volume accurately.
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When you calculating cabinet volume you need to subtract the space used for bracing, and in the case of some of Louis' designs, the sand that he uses. Also, you need to know the thickness of the walls. Unless you open up your speakers and really take a look at what's inside, you won't truly be able to calculate the volume accurately.
Thanks. That's what I started to realize. Still surprising that calculating with the outside dimensions makes such a big difference - something like 69 vs. 37 liters.
......Peter
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Hi Peter
Regarding the issue with drivers; i read Louis's earlier post in this thread that he was working on a 7"alnico driver, and that he offered a swap with the drivers I have. Of course I may have misunderstood his post and intensions but I think he is working on something. Then, if so, of course I am interested in that product. I believe we , at the moment , have the same kind of 7"drivers. Curios if you have been trying out the ferrite based drivers more. I believe your initial impressions favored those, but then leaned to the alnicos . Big difference?
Regarding the differences in cabinets, yours are a bit bigger, maybe a little more soundstage and maybe a little more bass? Size matters....
Listening to: Grant Lee Buffalo , a band I loved being twenty and a promising young lad... Later: Wes Montgomery, being a older and laid back grown up..
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Hi Peter
Regarding the issue with drivers; i read Louis's earlier post in this thread that he was working on a 7"alnico driver, and that he offered a swap with the drivers I have. Of course I may have misunderstood his post and intensions but I think he is working on something. Then, if so, of course I am interested in that product. I believe we , at the moment , have the same kind of 7"drivers. Curios if you have been trying out the ferrite based drivers more. I believe your initial impressions favored those, but then leaned to the alnicos . Big difference?
Regarding the differences in cabinets, yours are a bit bigger, maybe a little more soundstage and maybe a little more bass? Size matters....
Listening to: Grant Lee Buffalo , a band I loved being twenty and a promising young lad... Later: Wes Montgomery, being a older and laid back grown up..
Maybe there's an optimal size so a too big cabinet would have negative effect? Don't know.
I guess we'll need the word from Louis or Rob about the 7" Alnico. It was confused there for a little while as they were sorting their plans and naming the drivers.
I will reserve judgement about the ferrite drivers for now. I've been rotating through Pope, vintage RCA and vintage Bendix 6V6 power tubes so haven't tried switching drivers back yet. My initial impression with the ferrites was a liveliness but when I went back to the alnicos, I really seemed to hear the naturalness and texture. The ferrites may be a bit more forward which made them sound better at first. I'll repost when I get around to switching back.
.....Peter
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Regarding the differences in cabinets, yours are a bit bigger, maybe a little more soundstage and maybe a little more bass? Size matters....
Hello jorgen,
A bigger cabinet does not necessarily give a larger or superior soundstage, or more bass. The Super 3XRS has a fraction of the cabinet volume of the original Hoyt 1.5, yet when I compared them side by side, the Super 3XRS had at least as much bottom end, and as far as imaging goes, the Super 3XRS is unbeatable - huge, well focussed soundstage. The room acoustics and the way the speakers are set up can have a huge effect on all aspects of a speakers performance.
Concerning the 7" alnico driver, there only was one, regardless of how it was, or is labelled, and there are no plans for it's redesign, now or in the future.