AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: AlexH on 2 Jun 2019, 01:31 pm
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Hi All
I wanted to share some pics of my latest speaker build. I love to see what others are doing but I never take pics of anything that I am doing. So this time I thought others may find these useful because I always get ideas and help from other people build pics. Its been about 10 years since my last speaker build. I have been rehabbing some classic speakers here and there but nothing from the ground up.
First some info about myself. I am what you call a bang for the buck stereo and home theater guy. My system is what most would call mid level and I am OK with that. So after doing some research and reading of others comments on here, I settled on the X-Statiks. They are done in pomelle makore veneer and curly maple acsents. This will be my first OB speaker experience.
Secondly I have not really been in my wood shop building anything, normally some type of furniture, in about two years. All I can say about the experience is.......man am I rusty.
You may see some of your ideas in this build. I got so much good info and ideas from so many of you.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195171)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195166)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195172)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195173)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195175)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195176)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195177)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195178)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195181)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195182)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195183)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195184)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195185)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195186)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195187)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195188)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195189)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195190)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195192)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195193)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195194)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195196)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195199)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195202)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195204)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195167)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195203)
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Dang Alex,
Those are beautiful. I’m a bit shop jealous too. :green:
I hope you enjoy yours as much as my family has enjoyed our pair for the last 10 years.
Impossible to beat for the money. :D
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Those look SO GOOD! Great work. Thanks for sharing. I have very few "wood shop tools" so your shop makes me jealous too. I love getting ideas from build threads too.
Awesome job. OB IS DA BOMB!
Ben
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Beautiful job, Alex.
Thanks for sharing.
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Alex,
Absolutely beautiful craftmanship. I try to do the same in all my builds. If you have your pics uploaded elsewhere, please provide the link so we can see the pics in all its non compressed glory!
Enjoy!
Anand.
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Congratulations on a beautiful build Alex, those look fantastic. Nice shop as well. Thanks for sharing.
Best
Ed
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Those look great. Your attention to detail is incredible!
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DAM! Beautiful job! ..and your shop is a little dirty. :D
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Those look fantastic! I hope you remembered the No Rez. Love the one piece cover too!
Well Done! :rock:
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Thanks everyone. I appreciate the compliments. And yes I included the no-rez, but went with the standard crossover.
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Wow, those look great.
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Just going off what I see at shows like RMAF, something comparable from a build/sound quality standpoint, from a regular manufacturer - a speaker of that quality would run you $10k, at least. Nice work!
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poseidonsvoice
Here a couple of links with higher rez. The photos were not that great to begin with.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fDWo0gSublvJpWuYu_zJnw1mG4K1dUYHsVwivJcY732wbmjTtd2oSPqKrnGef19odNDo0DAMNkE7k-gs0w=w1000-no-tmp.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uLx38qWm0OJeBvVvgSg1Sczb9rf3spMNV0AOaBzCBb-IXaA7EEXSHVrr7BfEiFeGb9x14QtuYTXsHE23mA=w1000-no-tmp.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dg7DMe7P2iE_dujgygxXaDW0CJct8o52I3Yco9Un7-ynefhoCLqjwntPZh6kR6h_j62i9v6YxHNSkw2bHQ=w1000-no-tmp.jpg
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Alex,
Beautiful build. You have skills. How do they sound?
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veer nice :thumb:
Shop envy here also.
How did you cut the recess for the tweeter with the through hole already cut?
Mike
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This is ridiculously good.
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Wish I could be that "rusty" and still do beautiful work like that!!!
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jeffh... They sound vvvery nice. They dont have much run time on them but I have already decided to get rid of my DCM Time Windows I rehabbed a couple years ago.
mlundy57... I made a template and used a pattern bit to cut the recess. Remember when I said I was rusty. After I cut the through hole I called myself a few names. :lol: By the way I think it was you who had suggested to someone they try the Medex MDF. I really liked working with it much better than the standard stuff we have in this area. The bases are made from two layers of Medex sanded up with a coat of Z poxy for sealer and they painted up nicely.
Thanks again with all the complements.
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Alex, awsome results man, beauties :thumb: :thumb:
And yes, after using the Medex, one won't go back, most of our flats are all made with it now aside from any 1.5" material. Still like the solid 1.5" MDF for some parts.
jay
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The 3/4 Medex in a 4 x 8 sheet was heavy enough. Can't imagine the weight of 1 1/2 :?
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Alex,
Beautiful work there! Thanks for sharing. I never would've tried building my own cabinets if it wasn't for all the craftsmen on this site taking time to share their projects. What a talented and friendly crew that hangs out here! I'm currently getting ready to paint my 3rd project (X-MTM Encores) but I think you convinced me to try my hand at veneer on my next build.
Enjoy listening to them beauties...
best, Jeff
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Alex, Delicious... thanks for sharing!
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Fantastic job! I have a couple questions if you don't mind...How many sheets of No-Rez did it require and what is the Artist tape for?
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I used two sheets of Norez. It was just a bit shy, but not worth buying another sheet.
I use the artist tape to tape off the area I wanted to paint black where I used a 3/4 round over on the back side of the mids. With a round over that big it removes veneer so that the MDF shows. I wanted the round over to be black and the artist tape allows you follow the outline of the circle and give you a nice sharp line when removed after painting the round over black. Does that make sense?
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That makes sense. Thanks for the quick reply!
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How do you like the x-static’s???
Hi All
I wanted to share some pics of my latest speaker build. I love to see what others are doing but I never take pics of anything that I am doing. So this time I thought others may find these useful because I always get ideas and help from other people build pics. Its been about 10 years since my last speaker build. I have been rehabbing some classic speakers here and there but nothing from the ground up.
First some info about myself. I am what you call a bang for the buck stereo and home theater guy. My system is what most would call mid level and I am OK with that. So after doing some research and reading of others comments on here, I settled on the X-Statiks. They are done in pomelle makore veneer and curly maple acsents. This will be my first OB speaker experience.
Secondly I have not really been in my wood shop building anything, normally some type of furniture, in about two years. All I can say about the experience is.......man am I rusty.
You may see some of your ideas in this build. I got so much good info and ideas from so many of you.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195171)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195166)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195172)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195173)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195175)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195176)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195177)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195178)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195181)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195182)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195183)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195184)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195185)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195186)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195187)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195188)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195189)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195190)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195192)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195193)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195194)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195196)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195199)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195202)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195204)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195167)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=195203)
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Its funny you should ask that. I have been digging out past speaker builds so I can free up some money and some space. As I have pulled the old speakers out I have been giving them another listen. They all sound good too me. But when I connect the X-statiks back up I realized what I have been missing. So the short answer to your question is I love them. But like you I came from a box speaker, and the X-statik is a different sound, but I have come to really appreciate it.
I was looking at the pics you posted in another thread with you tektonics. The X-statiks do need room behind them and like you I have a similar problem with space. I only use the X-statics for Music two Channel because I have others in place for home theater. When I listen to music I move them out about two feet in each direction so they have space behind them to get the best sound. But when I feel lazy I dont move them and they still sound good too me. Take a look at the pic I attached. The speakers in the pic are DCM 1A's that I replaced with the X-statiks.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=202642)
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Alex thanks for your response. I’ve never heard open baffle at all but I’ve heard good things especially about Danny’s designs. I like the xstatik because the bass area is sealed/boxed and probably will blend better with my potted svs sub (zero room for tower OB subs with external amps :/ ).
yeah it looks like you weren’t joking about your room that looks to be only mildly more inconvenient for speaker placement than mine lol.
Glad to hear you are enjoying your speakers! Carry on and happy new year!
Its funny you should ask that. I have been digging out past speaker builds so I can free up some money and some space. As I have pulled the old speakers out I have been giving them another listen. They all sound good too me. But when I connect the X-statiks back up I realized what I have been missing. So the short answer to your question is I love them. But like you I came from a box speaker, and the X-statik is a different sound, but I have come to really appreciate it.
I was looking at the pics you posted in another thread with you tektonics. The X-statiks do need room behind them and like you I have a similar problem with space. I only use the X-statics for Music two Channel because I have others in place for home theater. When I listen to music I move them out about two feet in each direction so they have space behind them to get the best sound. But when I feel lazy I dont move them and they still sound good too me. Take a look at the pic I attached. The speakers in the pic are DCM 1A's that I replaced with the X-statiks.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=202642)
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You inspired me to another level. I’ve been working on purchasing the X-Staitik pair from Danny, just waiting a few weeks. I’m gonna start on my cabinets first. I was going to paint my cabinets and solid wood stained for the front baffle like Ron”s NX Oticas from New Record Day. However, I love these and I have plenty of cherry veneer around. Can you tell me what you used to make the grills? Also, anyone can chime in on MedEx versus the standard 3/4” MDF at Home Depo. It’s easy to work with and I take it that it sounds better too? What if I can’t get my hands on any? I’m going to order the upgraded Sonic Caps/mill resistors and tube connectors. What are the best areas to put no res inside the woofer cabinet? This would be my first veneer project so any clues help. I’ve built many cabinets and subwoofer boxes but,, this will require much more attention to detail. Even though my modo is if your gonna do it, do it right.
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First of all, I'd like to encourage Alex to link this build in the "GR Research Build Threads" sticky at top this of circle. Beautiful work and obviously inspiring to others.
Electronicsfanatic, let me see if I can shed some light on a couple of things. FWIW, I'd encourage you to have Danny's kit on hand when doing build. I've always found it helpful to have actual parts for driver mounting, test fitting, tweeter depth, crossover board layout, etc. You get the picture.
High density MDF, like Medex and Ranger are superior to any Big Box stuff I've seen. Higher density gives slightly better panel damping in theory but also workability is enhanced. Crisper edges and dados, better screw holding capability, easier to finish, etc. I find exactly one place that I prefer standard MDF and that's the spoil board on router because I pull vacuum through it. Look at real lumber yards, if you have any near you. Cabinet shops use it and some wholesale suppliers will sell to public. Contact manufacturer and find out who distributes in your area and give 'em a call. Also if we know where you are perhaps a resource could be suggested.
I don't think there's any place you don't want NoRez except holding it back an inch or so from backs of drivers. Foam layer can be removed in areas where it's in the way, like under crossover. On the other hand, good panel damping can be accomplished without 100% coverage. The damping layer and not the foam is doing most of the damping work and the performance difference between 100% coverage and, say, 70% would be almost insignificant.
Veneer can be done a number of ways. Easiest for many would be paper backed veneer. Raw veneer is more demanding of the craftsman. Books have been written on the subject. What's the cherry veneer you have?
From a woodworking perspective, my builds have always served to raise my own bar, which I like the idea of. Although I cut my teeth in cabinet shops, I've learned more about furniture building outside of that. Do and learn, do and learn...
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Thanks Peter for the reply. I'm using a paper backed veneer that is decently thick. I'm in the process of trying to source the Medex as there are no local suppliers in my area. I will have the kits on had so I can test fitment, etc. Anyone know how Alex routed his wires? I see none on the back. Maybe he routed a channel inside the front baffle. More pictures would be nice.
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Thanks for the complements. Peter I will try and get a better build thread together and link it. I was Originally going to do a better job like you have in the past, but I got lazy. And it is certainly high praise coming from you about my build, because the work you do is simply awesome.
electronicsfanitc: I agree with everything Peter said about Medex and veneering. If you go out to https://www.joewoodworker.com/ there some very good info to look at. Also Peter did and excellent job on putting together a video on veneering. Maybe he can join back in and post a link for you.
As far as buying Medex I went to my local lumber yard and they ordered it for me. When you go to the lumber yard go to the contractors desk. They usually have a better idea of where to order it from.
As far as the wiring the upper front baffle, I drilled holes between each driver hole and ran the wire though them. When I had wires that had to go around others drivers to get to the next driver I cut a slot around the driver hole and tuck the wires into it and painted them black. If that makes sense? I got this idea from others on this forum, but I can't remember where it was.
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Thanks for the complements. Peter I will try and get a better build thread together and link it. I was Originally going to do a better job like you have in the past, but I got lazy. And it is certainly high praise coming from you about my build, because the work you do is simply awesome.
electronicsfanitc: I agree with everything Peter said about Medex and veneering. If you go out to https://www.joewoodworker.com/ there some very good info to look at. Also Peter did and excellent job on putting together a video on veneering. Maybe he can join back in and post a link for you.
As far as buying Medex I went to my local lumber yard and they ordered it for me. When you go to the lumber yard go to the contractors desk. They usually have a better idea of where to order it from.
As far as the wiring the upper front baffle, I drilled holes between each driver hole and ran the wire though them. When I had wires that had to go around others drivers to get to the next driver I cut a slot around the driver hole and tuck the wires into it and painted them black. If that makes sense? I got this idea from others on this forum, but I can't remember where it was.
Jay (Captainhemo) comes to mind for the wiring trick
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Mike you are correct. I do believe it was Jays idea on hiding the wiring. I looked around the site but could not find the post. Maybe Jay will chime in with some pics or links.
New Year All
Alex
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Mike you are correct. I do believe it was Jays idea on hiding the wiring. I looked around the site but could not find the post. Maybe Jay will chime in with some pics or links.
New Year All
Alex
I think it was in his OB7 build thread.
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Sorry Alex for bumming your thread! I figured out how to hide the wires easily by routing a channel between the two front panels then I’ll epoxy or seal between woofer section. My supplier that was found through Medex website doesn’t Cary that in stock. I called my lumbar yard and it will cost me $400 plus from Texas to my local lumbar yard to get two sheets. I had one of their suppliers say they stock EXTIRA 3/4” 4’x8’ sheets. They look to have the same properties except the EXTIRA is exterior rated. They both are formaldehyde free, offer great refinishing capabilities, and cut/router well. Any thoughts? Thanks for everyday insight.
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$400, that is nuts. In my area (Mid Michigan) it was 65.00 /sheet. Regular mdf is 45.00. I would go with the regular mdf and be good with it. I have built quite a few speaker projects with regular mdf and it is fine. Medex was just nicer to work with, but regular mdf works. Not sure there is going to be much difference in the sound between the two, with good cabinet bracing. And the X-statiks have plenty of bracing.
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Sorry Alex for bumming your thread! I figured out how to hide the wires easily by routing a channel between the two front panels then I’ll epoxy or seal between woofer section. My supplier that was found through Medex website doesn’t Cary that in stock. I called my lumbar yard and it will cost me $400 plus from Texas to my local lumbar yard to get two sheets. I had one of their suppliers say they stock EXTIRA 3/4” 4’x8’ sheets. They look to have the same properties except the EXTIRA is exterior rated. They both are formaldehyde free, offer great refinishing capabilities, and cut/router well. Any thoughts? Thanks for everyday insight.
I have to agree with Alex. It just won't make that much difference in the end game. To add to the confusion, even among standard grades of MDF, there are differences. I bought MDF at local HD once on a Sunday, because it was open. I was surprised how pithy it was, compared to what I sourced from lumberyard. YMMV.
Concerning Extira. The same company makes Miratec, which is dimensional trim stock for home exteriors. My understanding is that Extira is the same product in board form. Used for trim and sign making industry. I trimmed my shop with Miratec and it has held up well, have not tried it for speakers, but it's on my list. The exterior exposure properties are just no concern for speakers. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably go with what lumberyard was offering, in my case that would be Plum Creek, which I've used for many projects. I think all commonly available USA sourced MDF is now NAUF rated...No Additional Urea Formaldehyde. All it means is that the glue/resin used doesn't contain formaldehyde.
It's not worth busting a gusset over or forking over huge $$. That coming from a details freak, FWIW.
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Thanks Peter for the reply. I'm using a paper backed veneer that is decently thick. I'm in the process of trying to source the Medex as there are no local suppliers in my area. I will have the kits on had so I can test fitment, etc. Anyone know how Alex routed his wires? I see none on the back. Maybe he routed a channel inside the front baffle. More pictures would be nice.
If you are using contact cement I would strongly encourage you to use 2-ply veneer backed skins and NOT paper backed. In my forty years in the business I have seen many cases of cracking grain and finish with the paper backing. Including on several of my own projects. In one instance some poor soul used paper backed veneer on a large lobby paneling job. He had massive failure of the veneer and had to redo the whole commercial lobby.
If you are using a hard glue line of some sort then you would probably have less of a problem. Although I would still choose a veneer backing over paper any day.
YMMV of course and good luck with your project.
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Beautiful work! did you set in your network up before gluing the base? Is the base removable? I am concerned about having to get to the network once the base is glued into place.
Tony
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Beautiful work! did you set in your network up before gluing the base? Is the base removable? I am concerned about having to get to the network once the base is glued into place.
Tony
The base is removable and that is where the crossover is located. I knew I was going to upgrade the crossover in the future. Matter of fact I received my order from Danny today to do the upgrades.
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Are you saying that you DID NOT glue the frame down to the base? It just sets on the base, the weight makes it secure enough so that you don’t worry about tipping? I lip around the base where the network is placed is only 3/4”. Did you make your base thicker?
I would appreciate your comments...
Tony
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My base is 1 1/2" and I used a very coarse threaded screw to attach it to the speaker. I do not have a picture of the base after it was finished but here is one as I was making it.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=210233)
I then attached another 3/4 piece on top of the base that fit tightly into the bottom of the speaker and this is where my crossover it attached. The screws run thought the base up into the side walls of the speaker.
Does that make sense?
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Instead of screws I put threaded inserts in the corners of the cabinets then bolt the base on. I make the base 1-1/2” thick so I can counter bore the holes so the heads of the bolts are recessed. With the inserts you can take the bases on and off whenever you need to. MDF isn’t fond of having screws removed and replaced very many times.
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I spent 16 years as a finish carpenter and the one thing I learned was everyone has their preferred way. My self I always seem to have problems with inserts into mdf. When they don't hold its a mess. I usually do not take my speakers apart once finished. But that is just me.
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These look Amazing! I hope mine turn out as well. I am building a pair now and would really benefit from a picture of the crossover. I want to make sure I get the most efficient layout and translating an electrical drawing to real life is not as easy as I had hoped. If anyone has a photo of their crossover build, that would be a great help.
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Thanks. I have really enjoyed these a lot. I bought these when the crossover was already done on a printed circuit board, so I am afraid pics of mine will not help you.
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Alex, 1st off, amazing Xstatic cabinets. I'm looking to build them too, but have many questions even though I have the drawings from GR Research. I'm hoping you or someone here can help out.
The following questions are in regard to the drawing notes.
1. What does 1/2" to 3/4" radius on back side of woofers hole mean? Page 1.
2. What is the thru hole diameter for tweeter without the terminial clearence? 3.93" - ____? Page 1
3. How wide does notch need to be for tweeter terminals? page 1
4. Top 3 driver's wires need to pass thru panel A. Do I drill any random hole for that? Page 2
5. On B boards can holes centers be exact center or do they need to be slighly offset as per drawing? Page 3
6. Would it be advisable to make screw on side panels or lower part of front panel for future XO access? Page 2
Sorry for question overload, but I dont want start project and get stalled.
Thanks, BikeFi10
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Please disregard question 6. I see Alex made base removeable for XO access.
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I can answer #1. It means the rear side of each midrange / woofer hole should be rounded. This can be done with a router. Doing this relieves some of the rear wave pressure generated by the driver.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=227311)
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Refer to my build on the X-Statik for answers to some questions like the routing of wires between upper drivers.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=177397.0 (https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=177397.0)
1.) Corndog already said it - but use a router bit with a guide bearing and a 1/2" or 3/4" roundover on the back side of all the woofer holes.
2.) The THROUGH hole diameter is 3.125" the recess diameter is 3.93"
3.) The notch for the terminals is not specified nor is it crucial. Basically the terminals just need to fit. My notch was 1.6" wide and extended about .1" below where the bottom of the circular cutout would be. Again, this dimension is not critical.
4.) Refer to my thread - an angled 3/8" hole is easy to drill with a long drill bit.
5.) Not sure what you mean by this question
6.) I made my base removable - you can see that in my thread also.
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Alex, 1st off, amazing Xstatic cabinets. I'm looking to build them too, but have many questions even though I have the drawings from GR Research. I'm hoping you or someone here can help out.
The following questions are in regard to the drawing notes.
1. What does 1/2" to 3/4" radius on back side of woofers hole mean? Page 1.
2. What is the thru hole diameter for tweeter without the terminial clearence? 3.93" - ____? Page 1
3. How wide does notch need to be for tweeter terminals? page 1
4. Top 3 driver's wires need to pass thru panel A. Do I drill any random hole for that? Page 2
5. On B boards can holes centers be exact center or do they need to be slighly offset as per drawing? Page 3
6. Would it be advisable to make screw on side panels or lower part of front panel for future XO access? Page 2
Sorry for question overload, but I dont want start project and get stalled.
Thanks, BikeFi10
Thanks for the complements.
Looks like corndog and subsonic covered it all.
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Yes, after I sent questions I kind of figure the rear holes were to have rounded edges.
My GR drawing shows 3.125" from the bottom of terminal clearence notch to top of tweeter hole, but I'll go with 3.125" for through hole and notch enough to get terminals through as suggested.
Wow, Corndog71s rear panel looks pure professional. I didnt think of drilling angled down through the baffle.
I see the confusion on question 5, ME. I figured it out.
Thanks everyone who contributed answers.
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These look amazing
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Thanks I am still loving these. My friend can't believe how good they sound.