[jtwrace]

Mariusz
Is your Dodd Buffer singing yet?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Mariusz]

Not yet.
Made a booboo I quest
Have to go over the wiring.
Had a little problem visualizing conections between board, swtches and power buss. Problem might lay in power wireing and ground but can not say for sure.

I did pick up my new custom preamp to match my 300b monos and it probably deserves the place in my personal top preamp section. Ones I get the issues resolved with the buffer I might try to compare these two preamps. 
 
 

[TrungT]

Hope you get the "hick-up" work out.
 

[ebag4]

Not yet.
Made a booboo I quest
Have to go over the wiring.
Had a little problem visualizing conections between board, swtches and power buss. Problem might lay in power wireing and ground but can not say for sure.

I did pick up my new custom preamp to match my 300b monos and it probably deserves the place in my personal top preamp section. Ones I get the issues resolved with the buffer I might try to compare these two preamps. 
 

Mariusz,
Did you get all 6 black wires back to the "Main Ground Buss".  I only ask because in the early instructions that was not as clear as the instructions Gary has on-line now.

Best,
Ed

[Mariusz]

Mariusz,
Did you get all 6 black wires back to the "Main Ground Buss".  I only ask because in the early instructions that was not as clear as the instructions Gary has on-line now.

Best,
Ed

yes, all 6 on main ground buss.
As I write this , I by passed the Neutric conection and it seems to be alive.
Must be something wrong with conntacts.
One more Q which position is for 6V and which one for 12V?

[jtwrace]

yes, all 6 on main ground buss.
As I write this , I by passed the Neutric conection and it seems to be alive.
Must be something wrong with conntacts.
One more Q which position is for 6V and which one for 12V?

Make sure you twist the Neutric PowerCon connector to the right after it's in.  That makes the contact to the terminals.

[Mariusz]

Make sure you twist the Neutric PowerCon connector to the right after it's in.  That makes the contact to the terminals.

it makes sense - I did not do it ..... rushed it I guess.

PS
looks like left is 6V. Is that right?

[Mariusz]

I'll test it later today. It would be awesome if I could compare it to my other preamp. Besides, I found close to 12 different tubes which should work, according to the long list of tubes mentioned earlier.

Thanks guys

[ebag4]

it makes sense - I did not do it ..... rushed it I guess.

PS
looks like left is 6V. Is that right?

6V is when the toggle is pointing the same direction as the jumpered pin of the switch and regulator (the orange wire runs to the pin of the regulator and the switch, opposite the single connection between the switch and regulator).  I hope that makes sense.

Best,
Ed

[gld]

There is a picture of the switch and the direction of it on the instruction pages on the DIY pages. 6 volts is to the left.
Gary

[Mariusz]

Still no sound
- can hear fainted sound
- remote doesn't work
- voltage switch gets pretty worm

[jtwrace]

Still no sound
- can hear fainted sound
- remote doesn't work
- voltage switch gets pretty worm

Make sure ribbon cable is properly seated.  Remove and replace.

[Mariusz]

Make sure ribbon cable is properly seated.  Remove and replace.

Thanks
did like you said but still no sound
volume pot doesn't responds to remote
is it normal for toggle switch to get this warm?

Any ideas?

[ebag4]

The toggle switch will get quite warm when in the 6V position, it is actually the regulator getting hot, I am assuming you mounted the switch and the regulator together.

Best,
Ed

[Mariusz]

The toggle switch will get quite warm when in the 6V position, it is actually the regulator getting hot, I am assuming you mounted the switch and the regulator together.

Best,
Ed

yes, just like in on line instructions.
yes, it is in 6V position - with stock tube

if time permits, Ill take the guts out and take few pics.

[gld]

The switch gets hot from the heat transfer from the regulator. It's not a problem.
Not only make sure the ribbon cable is plugged in correctly at both ends, also make sure that the brown wire is on top at both ends.
Are you hearing any relay clicks when you power it up? Is the tube lighting up?
Gary

[Mariusz]

The switch gets hot from the heat transfer from the regulator. It's not a problem.
Not only make sure the ribbon cable is plugged in correctly at both ends, also make sure that the brown wire is on top at both ends.
Are you hearing any relay clicks when you power it up? Is the tube lighting up?
Gary

tube is lighting up and I can hear the relay clicks when switched from off to mute.
Last, brown wire on the ribbon is facing "R out" and facing orange+2 white wires on the input selector board.

[gld]

Mariusz I don't understand the last sentence. Look closely at the pictures of the plastic sample and make sure the ribbon cable is plugged in that way. Ok, so the tube is lighting up and you do hear a relay click on power up. Do you hear another relay click about 10-15 seconds after power up? That would be the mute relay, if it doesn't click it will not make music! Also you say the remote is not working? I tested the hand held part before I sent it to you so we know it works. You got power and ground to the remote board right? Maybe some good pics will help when you have the time.
gary

[Mariusz]

No 2nd click
Clicks only when powering down.
I better take some pics and hopefully that will help.   

[dmatt]

Slightly different subject (although I wish Mariusz the best of luck in getting his buffer to work).

Is there any problem experimenting with different stepped attenuators in place of the 100K Alps pot as long as the attentuator is stereo, the same value (100K), and of course wired correctly?

OK, back to the troubleshooting ...

David