AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => Cheap and Cheerful HiFi => Topic started by: TrungT on 6 Apr 2010, 01:56 am
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I got my eyes all over this :eyebrows:
http://doddaudio.com/diy.aspx
:thumb:
Group buy anyone?
:drool:
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WOW!
Being an owner of a buffer, it's a no brainer at that price.
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I just want a second, ... ok ... or ... third
:eyebrows:
"no brainer"
:thumb:
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GEEE ZUZZZ - Look at all those parts. If you can build that, you deserve to save money. I found the ClassD amp kits intimidating.
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"Look at all those parts"
No worry, it's only goes in one way. :scratch:
:eyebrows:
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Hmmmm....... I'll have to figure out if my Bolder SB3 full mods has enough gain to feed my modified Heathkit W5m monoblocks. I generally use an external DAC with the SB3. I'm certainly tempted; battery tube pre DROOL!!
-Roy
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My dream system is full of Dodd equipment!!!
Too bad it's only in my head. Lol
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Is this a tube preamp as well?
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Is this a tube preamp as well?
technically no. preamp would imply amplification, as in gain, which as buffer by definition has none (ie gain equal 1, unity). It is about impedance transformation.
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ABSOLUTELY! :thumb: It replaces your preamp. It does not provide any gain. This is the latest version of my tube buffer. I just thought some of you might like to do it yourself. It is exactly like my fully finished product only in kit form. You can purchase it in any way you want. It has 3 inputs and 2 sets of outputs and a set of record out jacks to be used for recording or driving a headphone amp or something like that.
This newest buffer uses only 1 tube now, it has a switchable filament voltage of 6 or 12 volts. You can use virtually any 9 pin minature tube in this amp as long as it has the same pinout as the 12AX7 tube. That's a huge amount of tubes. :eyebrows: All of them will work, but each 1 of them will have a different output impedance and therefore may not work well in your system.
A person could go out a buy a bunch of NOS tubes that nobody ever uses for a quarter apeice and give em a try. You'd probably get tired of trying tubes.
Anyway it runs on a 12 volt battery. This is probably the deal of the century!! :green:
Gary
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Great kit and not bad price. But to advance for this rookie.
If someone has a lot of time on their hands and loves to sniff solder early in the morning...... SURE! Experiment with my money! :lol: :drool: :lol: :drool: :duh: :cry: :wink:
:thumb:
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Gary
would you consider a discount for larger quantity.
A group buy of some sort with feedback, impressions, build tips in one long thread?
Mariusz :thumb:
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The battery tube preamp is the best preamp out there at $2500, most of its circuit in available in the battery tube buffer at a killer price of $1000, and now the guts are available at $349! To step up quality wise you would have to spend...???
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Does this attenuate the volume?
My amps have 10kohm input impedance. Red Dragon Amp-1s. Will this pre work with it.
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Yes, it does the same functions as a normal preamp it just has no gain. The source componets provide the gain. It has a volume control. The output impedance depends on what tube is being used. A 6DJ8 has an output impedance of 88 ohms in this circuit. A 12AX7 has 505 ohms output impedance. Some tubes will work well , some won't.
Gary :thumb:
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If this was offered before I got my Pass B-1 boards and ordered all the crazy parts. Too bad. I guess need to stick with old man Nelson.
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Ok guys. Let's do a group buy for AC members and let's do it for $325 and free shipping. :drool: Free shipping in the lower 48 states. :duh: For the AC members out of country you can still have the great deal you just have to pay for the shipping. This deal is for the Basic Buffer kit only. The options are not included. I am not stocking the parts for these. Everything but 1 part is very easy to get. The 1 part is usually a 3-4 week wait. I just want all to know upfront. We need to get as many sales as possible in order for me to be able to do this for this special deal. :green:
Gary
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bundee1 it will drive your Red Dragon's just fine! :green:
Gary
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I would have help you with your Nelson if I did not comitte to the one that was covered in such a detail build by Wus..... .
Another kit is also in the works together with Mr.Nightshade.
So basicly, I am running out of cash but I would love to try Garry's kit since I have own his preamp ones before and it was a fine product (one of my top 3 favorite preamps ever).
With Nelson Pass possibly on the way soon, a little shoot out would be fun. :drool:
Cheers
Mariusz :thumb:
Ok guys. Let's do a group buy for AC members and let's do it for $325 and free shipping. :drool: Free shipping in the lower 48 states. :duh: For the AC members out of country you can still have the great deal you just have to pay for the shipping. This deal is for the Basic Buffer kit only. The options are not included. I am not stocking the parts for these. Everything but 1 part is very easy to get. The 1 part is usually a 3-4 week wait. I just want all to know upfront. We need to get as many sales as possible in order for me to be able to do this for this special deal. :green:
Gary
Thanks Gary
I am in
PM your PP account.
Will have to dust off my iron. :duh:
Cheers
Mariusz
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This kit may look imtimidating for some folks. :scratch: Trust me the instructions will be available as a downloadable PDF file on my website and they will be mostly pics, with instruction as needed. So if you can see you will be able to build the kit with ease! :thumb: And I'm always available to answer any questions.
If this kit catches on I will add other kits to the diy section on my website.
As always the quality will be top notch and the service will be excellent!
Most of all I will try and keep things as inexpensive as possible so everyone can enjoy building and using them. :D
Gary
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Gary,
How will this buffer compare to my current two tube buffer sonically?
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I want one. How does the group buy work?
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hey Jason it's the same, but with the ability to use way more tube types.
For the group buy all you have to do is commit. I'll put your name on a list, you send me the money and I'll ship as soon as finished. :thumb:
You can let me know thru this thread or thru my website or by phone
Gary
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the ability to use way more tube types.
Gary
What about a mod kit for the two tube types (Gen 1) so we can roll more tubes?
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hey Jason it's the same, but with the ability to use way more tube types.
For the group buy all you have to do is commit. I'll put your name on a list, you send me the money and I'll ship as soon as finished. :thumb:
You can let me know thru this thread or thru my website or by phone
Gary
Gary,
I'll be ordering one or nine as soon as possible. I know that there are guys here that will want them but can't use a butane lighter much less a soldering iron. :o
Good on you mate, as my friend Andy Graddon from Australia might say.
Dave
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Dave
We can have Gary remove the child safety on the butan lighter, that should help :wink:
Or get one with out it. :green:
I'm in for the Dodd buffer kit.
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So I added all the parts up and they are $847. I purchased my buffer for $995. :D
Gary are they still $995 assembled?
I think I got a bargain...
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Jason
Right now still a bargian, You just have one "bargainER" :thumb:
So, are you in for another back-up buffer?
:wink:
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So, are you in for another back-up buffer?
:wink:
I don't think so
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So I added all the parts up and they are $847. I purchased my buffer for $995. :D
Gary are they still $995 assembled?
I think I got a bargain...
how you figure?
Kit -$325
battery/charger - ?
Case/ make my own - $0
what else am I missing ?
Remote isn't a part of the deal. If you need this luxury ???well, then yes, it will cost you $200 more.
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how you figure?
Kit -$325
battery/charger - ?
Case/ make my own - $0
what else am I missing ?
Remote isn't a part of the deal. If you need this luxury ???well, then yes, it will cost you $200 more.
amp kit $349
remote $199
Knobs $80
Chassis $159
Faceplate $60
This is to build an exact buffer as Gary sells. I'm actually surprised that he'll sell everything..
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amp kit $349
remote $199
Knobs $80
Chassis $159
Faceplate $60
This is to build an exact buffer as Gary sells. I'm actually surprised that he'll sell everything..
Cheap and Cheerful cost:
kit - $325
scrap wood, Shack or eBay - $? (cheap)
if I want to get fancy it can go up in thousands.
Here is the link to the kit info:
http://doddaudio.com/diy.aspx (http://doddaudio.com/diy.aspx)
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Gary,
Does the buffer have ability for ht bypass?
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Gary,
Does the buffer have ability for ht bypass?
Gary added a tape loop to mine. :thumb:
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So I added all the parts up and they are $847. I purchased my buffer for $995. :D
Gary are they still $995 assembled?
I think I got a bargain...
They are $1595 now, so you got a bargain.
So, the diy price comes to be about 1/2 of the assembled price, seems reasonable to me.
Randy
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Gary added a tape loop to mine. :thumb:
Now the question is how much extra would it be for the tape loop :scratch: and/or does it require any changes to the circuit.
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And how about keeping it simple, cheap and to the point?
Mariusz :thumb:
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If a component doesn't have the required functionality, it really doesn't matter how cheap it is.
Steve
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You can also add the sonic cap plat bypass. Since you'll be soldering at that point anyway. Well worth the Cheap and Cheerful investement.
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Cheap and Cheerful cost:
kit - $325
scrap wood, Shack or eBay - $? (cheap)
if I want to get fancy it can go up in thousands.
Here is the link to the kit info:
http://doddaudio.com/diy.aspx (http://doddaudio.com/diy.aspx)
No knobs? You have to have knobs.
It's cheap if you have the time to make one and debug it should you make a mistake. Oh, and have the tools necessary to solder and make a case. Start buying tools and the cost skyrockets. Sort of like working on your own car is cheap if you have the hundreds to thousands of dollars in tools necessary to do work on a car.
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There are knobs! :scratch: Go to the link and you'll see them. They are an option to the kit.
Also comming soon will be wood knobs if you like. :thumb:
gary
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Cheap and Cheerful cost:
kit - $325
scrap wood, Shack or eBay - $? (cheap)
if I want to get fancy it can go up in thousands.
Here is the link to the kit info:
http://doddaudio.com/diy.aspx (http://doddaudio.com/diy.aspx)
You can do it that way but at $847 it's still Cheap and Cheerful in my book.
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Did someone said "KNOBS" ?
(http://doddaudio.com/images/SI850678.JPG)
:thumb:
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Wow, really high quality parts too. Sonicaps? Basically, you'd have little reason to spend even more money on boutique upgrades, which is what usually happens with kits. $350 and you're done.
Dang. Just have too many projects (including moving) right now. Hope the kit is still around in 6 months...
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No knobs? You have to have knobs.
It's cheap if you have the time to make one and debug it should you make a mistake. Oh, and have the tools necessary to solder and make a case. Start buying tools and the cost skyrockets. Sort of like working on your own car is cheap if you have the hundreds to thousands of dollars in tools necessary to do work on a car.
All I am going to say is, look at this thread:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=76400.msg761123;topicseen#new (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=76400.msg761123;topicseen#new)
56 pages and over 32,000 views
If those guys can manage so can you.
If not, ask fellow AC member for help or assistance and I am sure someone will respond and step forward.
I just had a Nelson Pass buffer build by great AC member (right above me :lol: :thumb:)who takes pride in his work and is willing to help out.
There are many talented/ gifted people around here.
If you do not like to break a sweat then simply buy finished product.
But please FORGIVE "Cheap and Cheerful hifi" for different perspective and concepts.
Second:
if you look at the whole kit (knobs, faceplate, remote etc) and suggest it is mandatory then it can NOT (according to Circle guidelines) continue as a thread.
I'll keep it here given the price, oportunity and support from Gary as far as group buy and product details are concern. :thumb:
I hope that explains my point of view and spirit of this Circle.
Cheers
Mariusz :)
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.......and NO, I won't mess with you if you choose to build around all parts available from Gary. Just do not discourage others from trying different options.
Thanks
Mariusz :wink:
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Mariusz
Well said :thumb:
And here is the tools you need to build the Dodd Buffer http://doddaudio.com/DIYINSTRUCTION.aspx
If all fail .... BIG hammer would do the trick. :scratch:
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man, I hope he does an amp kit as well. Since I already have a buffer, I'm good there but a Dodd Tube amp kit. :drool: I'd send the PayPal NOW.
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man, I hope he does an amp kit as well. Since I already have a buffer, I'm good there but a Dodd Tube amp kit. :drool: I'd send the PayPal NOW.
My guess is that it's a possibility.
Most likely depending on success of this offer. :scratch:
Would I sign up for amp kit? Most likely.
Let see how it goes.
I see that Gary is working on finishing touches and polishing/adding instractions on his website.
Mariusz :)
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My guess is that it's a possibility.
Most likely depending on success of this offer. :scratch:
Would I sign up for amp kit? Most likely.
Let see how it goes.
I see that Gary is working on finishing touches and polishing/adding instractions on his website.
Mariusz :)
That would be awesome! I would need the Monos though...the little guy just doesn't have enough for my speakers. I'd own it otherwise. :)
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man, I hope he does an amp kit as well. Since I already have a buffer, I'm good there but a Dodd Tube amp kit. :drool: I'd send the PayPal NOW.
I am thinking about using Gary's buffer with ClassD and making integrated stereo amp.
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I am thinking about using Gary's buffer with ClassD and making integrated stereo amp.
You **might** be able to squeeze them both into my case. :D
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I am thinking about using Gary's buffer with ClassD and making integrated stereo amp.
If you can do it - power to you.
I will be using Nelson Pass buffer with D - amp and Maverick as a source with Onkyo iTransporter/iPod.
If I get Dodd buffer I would like to test it in my reference rig with
my 300b PSE monos and RWA DAC.
DAC has variable output but there is something missing.
I am hoping that Dodd's buffer or custom pre-in the works will bring balance back to my system.
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I think Dodd Buffer template is cool, I'm bad about measurement, so this template realy help.
Just print, placed where you want it (masking tape to hold it in place), automatic center punch to the + marks, pick out the drill size, making all the holes. No guess work there. :thumb:
http://doddaudio.com/Documents/doddbufferholepattern.pdf (http://doddaudio.com/Documents/doddbufferholepattern.pdf)
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YeeHaa a Dodd buffer kit will be mine very soon, I can't wait. :drool:
Gary I spoke with you on the phone about this kit and I will mail you a money order today. I hope to see you at Danny's this weekend.
Steve
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Hey all I have had several ask if the buffer could have a HT bypass. This version cannot have a bypass feature, it would require a lot of rework.
I could do a bypass, but I really think that in some cases there would not be enough volume for some movies and such. :nono:
I have done a few with a tape loop, but that's about as far as I think it should go for this version.
Gary
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Hey all I have had several ask if the buffer could have a HT bypass. This version cannot have a bypass feature, it would require a lot of rework.
I could do a bypass, but I really think that in some cases there would not be enough volume for some movies and such. :nono:
I have done a few with a tape loop, but that's about as far as I think it should go for this version.
Gary
Thanks Gary. Makes sense.
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I think Dodd Buffer template is cool, I'm bad about measurement, so this template realy help.
Just print, placed where you want it (masking tape to hold it in place), automatic center punch to the + marks, pick out the drill size, making all the holes. No guess work there. :thumb:
http://doddaudio.com/Documents/doddbufferholepattern.pdf (http://doddaudio.com/Documents/doddbufferholepattern.pdf)
It couldn't be easier.
I have a really good feeling about this kit.
Love the concept.
Admire Gary for such a ballsy move.
Gary
You seem to adapt fairly quickly to always changing market and trends.
Understanding it, makes you "half a winner".
Execution is the other half.
Can not wait to hear this kit in all its glory.
Any plans on other DIY offers from Dodd Audio?
(if this kit becomes a success !!!)
Cheers
Mariusz :P
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Execution is the other half.
Can not wait to hear this kit in all its glory.
As one of the first Dodd Buffer buyers, I can say this unit is awesome. It replaced a very expensive preamp.These threads may be of some interest.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=75028.0
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=74866.0
Any plans on other DIY offers from Dodd Audio?
(if this kit becomes a success !!!)
Gary
You have no choice! :green:
Cheers
Mariusz :P
[/quote]
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This is the first time I have offered a kit of any kind let alone one of my best products! I worked and worked to get it as simple and inexpensive as I possibly could. Now I am waiting to see how this first kit goes. If it goes as well as I think it will, then I will release an amplifier kit of some sort as the second kit. I have already started work on it hoping the first kit goes well! :green:
gary
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This is the first time I have offered a kit of any kind let alone one of my best products! I worked and worked to get it as simple and inexpensive as I possibly could. Now I am waiting to see how this first kit goes. If it goes as well as I think it will, then I will release an amplifier kit of some sort as the second kit. I have already started work on it hoping the first kit goes well! :green:
gary
:banana piano: :violin: :guitar: :drums: :dance:
1 sold already... When can I send the funds? :drool: :thumb: :green:
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That would be f****n awesome :drool:
It sure would answer a lots of prayers ......
Especially those dedicated audiophiles with love for music who struggle in today's economy.
On behave of those folks - THANKS !!! :thumb:
Mariusz :thumb:
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Gary if the amp kit resembles the current battery amp I too would be a buyer, just don't tell my wife. :eyebrows:
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Well it for sure will not be a battery amp, :nono: way to much cost and complexity for a kit! It will probably be mono's if I can get the cost down and it will also be at least 30 watts. The battery amp is AWSOME, but it isn't enough power for a lot of people. I want the entire DIY market to be able to afford and build these kits! :green: It's all going to depend on the buffer kit and it's sucess. :thumb:
Gary
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Gary,
The battery powered buffer kit looks great! The tube rolling idea is very cool indeed with that range of tubes it works with. I even have a nice Telefunken 12AX7 smooth plate that would be fun to try.
I do not need one with the battery preamp, but it would be a fun DIY project! :)
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Gary,
The battery powered buffer kit looks great! The tube rolling idea is very cool indeed with that range of tubes it works with. I even have a nice Telefunken 12AX7 smooth plate that would be fun to try.
I do not need one with the battery preamp, but it would be a fun DIY project! :)
Preamp/buffer kit is battery powered
Amp is in the works but it most likely will not have battery PS.
But in all honesty, I would concentrate on this kit first, since amp's future depends on IT! :wink:
I for one am familiar with Gary's work - owned his preamp ones (kind of
regret selling it). And if this kit is in 80% as good as his top of the line preamp...... you will really regret passing on this opportunity. :duh:
Side note:
its popularity will depend not only on sound quality, integrating battery power supply and price but support and clear/easy to follow instructions.
Lot of Dodd fans can be turn off by complexity of the kit or skill required to put this kit together.
Mariusz
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Is anyone on DIY forum?
We need to spread the words of the Dodd battery buffer kit.
:thumb:
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Is anyone on DIY forum?
We need to spread the words of the Dodd battery buffer kit.
:thumb:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/164748-diy-dodd-audio-buffer-kit.html#post2146492
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And if this kit is in 80% as good as his top of the line preamp...... you will really regret passing on this opportunity. :duh:
Mariusz
Some say that the buffer actually sounds better then the preamp...
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I had the chance to A-B the preamp and buffer, I could not hear any difference in sound when the buffer was using a good NOS tube.
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I am VERY interested in this also. I do not need the gain and this has got to run cool at 12 volts. Two questions. What is the current draw with the stock tube? Also I noticed mosfet in the BOM- is a CCS part of the circuit. Thanks John
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I am VERY interested in this also. I do not need the gain and this has got to run cool at 12 volts. Two questions. What is the current draw with the stock tube? Also I noticed mosfet in the BOM- is a CCS part of the circuit. Thanks John
roughly 700ma
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There is no CCS on this circuit. :nono: The mosfet is for the timer circiut for turn on delay. If you notice in the pics of the kit the important parts I don't want anyone to know about are potted. There are 2 potted modules in the kit.
Don't ask I'm not telling what I have done. :green: Believe me it's quite unusual what I have done.
The entire kit runs very cool in fact I doubt that anyone will even notice.
The current draw depends on the tube being used. The older units like Jason's that have 2 tubes in them use about 700 ma depending on the tube used. The new units like the kit have only 1 tube and therefore the current goes down to half or less depending on which tube is being used. The thing will play hundreds and hundreds of hours on a small 26 AH battery. :drool:
Gary
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Jason
You are "THE MAN"
:thumb:
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...The new units like the kit have only 1 tube and therefore the current goes down to half or less depending on which tube is being used. The thing will play hundreds and hundreds of hours on a small 26 AH battery. :drool:
Gary
I'm a little confused (OK, a lot :green:). Your battery config for Dodd Audio pre-amp (& one you offer thru Danny @ GR Research) is (4) 12v 5 amp batteries run in series & parallel to achieve 24v & 10 amps. Correct? Recognizing that single tube passive buffer has greatly reduced current draw, what are you recommending battery-wise for this wonderful DIY unit? [Edit: I see a 12v DPDT relay in BOM, so assume this unit needs a 12v battery only].
I understand there are different battery options, but was hoping that I could utilize (2) 12v 7 amp SLA batteries in series (24v 7 amp net) to operate both the tube buffer & a Virtue Audio One.2 amp (amp draws 7 amps I believe & up to 30v PSU). A 24v 1.8 amp charger would stay hooked-up to batteries. Is this feasible, or does the proposed combo increase demand/ needs?
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No, :nono: you cannot use the Virtue amp battery supply for the buffer. The Virtue amps run on 24 volts, the buffer runs on 12 volts. The battery preamp runs on 24 volts. You could use 1 12 volt 7 AH battery on the buffer and it would play around 50-60 hours or so depending on what tube is being used.
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You could use 1 12 volt 7 AH battery on the buffer and it would play around 50-60 hours or so depending on what tube is being used.
That is incredible Gary! :thumb: :thumb:
Best,
Ed
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Jason
You are "THE MAN"
:thumb:
:thumb:
I'm just a fan of "Triple D Audio" :D
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=28714)
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Some say that the buffer actually sounds better then the preamp...
Before the Buffer that I have I had a Cary SLP-50B that I modified to the hilt - HexFREDs for HV, Schottkys in the heater supply, HUGE B= power supply capacitance as well as filament supply, a 317 filament regulator, a HV mosfet regulator instead of the zeners, Sonicaps with Platinum bypasses, a few Rikens here and there all working with Amperex Orange label 7308 tubes. It was big, beefy, bold in sound. The Dodd on the other hand is just honest - it gets out of the way of the music. Truly amazing in it's transparency. Like I said at diyAudio: Awesome is only a word............
Dave
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Jason
Are you talking about battery size? AA AAA and the DDD? :wink:
Dave
Hurry to fininishing your V speakers, then Dodd gears really ... really AWESOME
:thumb:
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Jason
Are you talking about battery size? AA AAA and the DDD? :wink:
Dave
Hurry to fininishing your V speakers, then Dodd gears really ... really AWESOME
:thumb:
No sir! :nono:
Triple D Audio = Dave Danny Dodd
I was listening last night staring at my MuthaBuss and my Buffer and thinking of Danny and this thought popped into my head. Yep, me a bit crazy. **sigh**
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Believe me it's quite unusual what I have done.
Thanks gld! I respectfully suggest your web site writeup is a little too modest. This is a product that really makes sense for me. I run my system all day in a home office. Tubes with no heat and should have long component life. Cool.
A questions and a request. My amp does not have input caps. Do I need to be concerned about DC?
The request is that you preannounce the end of the sale. I would prefer to use the proceeds of stuff I have up for sale, but I am in even if I have to negotiate with my accountant about spending her money
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No worries on DC on the output. :nono: There is none. :nono:
gary
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Gary,
I am new here but highly interested in one of these kits with everything to build it to the spec I could purchase built from you (including the platinum bypass caps)
Are you still doing some type of special purchase here?
Ted
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This kit is exactly like the buffer I sell as a product! :thumb: There are absolutely no differences. The platinum capacitor is an upgrade option and adds $40 to the cost of the kit which is currently $325 free shipping to all AC members.
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So what would be the laziest/most accomodating battery setup? I don't know all that much about SLAs. I'd prefer not to have to pull batteries and charge them every week (I average about 5-6 hrs./day listening to music). Is there a setup that would allow me to charge while playing?
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Absolutely there is a way to do it. :green: You could use a small 7-10
AH battery and a good smart charger and you can then leave it connected and plugged in all the time. The processor in the charger takes care of the battery properly and sonically it is not there. :thumb:
No need the worry about the charge condition of the battery/batteries. :nono: Just enjoy the sounds coming from your kit!!! :drool:
Gary
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I have a good charger and pluged in while the whole system playing, no problem, no noise.
This is a good one here: (I have the 7002 model)
http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Multi-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B000FQBWCY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1270763431&sr=8-2
:thumb:
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=28736)
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So what would be the laziest/most accomodating battery setup? I don't know all that much about SLAs. I'd prefer not to have to pull batteries and charge them every week (I average about 5-6 hrs./day listening to music). Is there a setup that would allow me to charge while playing?
I have a 100A AGM battery on the same smart charger that Trung has that is connected all of the time. My Dodd Battery Stereo Amp and Buffer sound AWESOME with this setup. Really: this is a no brainer... get a 12V battery and a charger and you are in for the sound of your life. I'm converting my Gigawork DAC to battery power, too. The Buffer is sweet!
Dave
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So,
$325 for the kit
+ $80 for the knobs, $159 for the chassis, $60 for the faceplate, adn $40 for the platinum bypass caps?
$624 shipped?
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Praedet
I think the free shipping only apply to the AC basic kit.
But I may be wrong though.
:scratch:
-
:nono: :nono: :nono: It is $664 by my calculator. The Basic Kit is $325 and free shipping. Only the kit is free shipping, you will have to pay shipping on the rest of the stuff.
Gary
-
Gary
The instruction page looking good, look easy enough.
http://doddaudio.com/DIYINSTRUCTION.aspx
:thumb:
-
Hey guys, I need a favor. Could I get you to go to my website and give the instructions that are there so far a look and let me know if I need to change anything. I want this kit to be as easy as possible for everyone.
I thought the hardest part for most would be soldering the big copper buss to the rca jacks, so I have done it for you! :thumb: The rest is easy. Not all the instructions are there yet just look at what is. Thanks :green:
Gary
-
Gary
"big copper buss"
(http://doddaudio.com/images/RCAJACKS.JPG)
:thumb:
-
Dang Gary, step by step photographs, hard to get much easier than that. I guess there could be things that we run into once it is in front of us but that looks VERY simple. One note, on the RCA board you may want to mark or show a better pic of the Mosfet in case someone doesn't know what that is.
Looks great to me!
Best,
Ed
BTW, what is the maximum thickness of the backplate those RCAs will allow?
-
Thanks Ed, I was thinking the same thing about the mosfet.
They'll go in 1/8" just fine. If you have thicker material or wood you can always recess it from the rear. I do it all the time! :eyebrows:
gary
-
Ed
(http://doddaudio.com/images/RCA2.jpg)
:thumb:
-
For those of you planning on building this unit. I first ordered the basic kit, then got to thinking about it, if I build this in a different chassis it will never look as good as the chassis from Gary. So I went ahead and got the metal chassis, now I only have to build the unit one time and can add the remote and pretty front at a latter date with ease.
-
Not that Gary needs any more to do, but if I build one I would build a custom enclosure to house this and the battery with charger in a single box. In that case the engraved faceplate would not work but a nice "DODD" logo plate we could attach would be nice. Maybe a rectangle just large enough to house the existing wording. I'm okay making my own holes and switch labels but can't replicate the font and signature "DODD".
Put this on the low priority perhaps.
On the instructions, perhaps one of the early builders can mark the photos with + and - or diode symbols so we can orient the components correctly.
-
Big Red Machine,
That's a brilliant Idea!! :thumb: I could do just that. I have the technology! :green: A small DODD AUDIO insert complete with super thin high quality pressure sensitive double sided tape. WOO HOO! :drool:
Gary
-
Big Red Machine, diodes are marked. Check it out now. Thanks
Gary
-
Gary very nice pics, these will be a big help.
-
(http://doddaudio.com/images/RCA1.jpg)
:thumb:
-
Gary
The DIY page looking good so far. :thumb:
I already have the soldering station set up and ready for action. :eyebrows:
-
I should be shipping kits first of next week! :drool: I appreciate the guys who went and had a look at the instructions and gave their feedback. Like I said I want it as simple as possible.
Thanks
gary :eyebrows:
-
Gary,
The instructions look really good!
On this page at the bottom you have a typo.
http://doddaudio.com/PWRSWITCH.aspx (http://doddaudio.com/PWRSWITCH.aspx)
The word jumper is misspelled.
-
I should be shipping kits first of next week!
Great! :thumb: :drool: :eyebrows:
-
Gary,
I e-mailed you about getting a kit. How do I order/pay you?
-
Gary,
Sorry, can you let us know what would be the minimum recommended case size. Want to make sure that I get the right size case.
Thank You
-
The chassis I put them in measures 8.5" wide x 7.5" deep x 3.5" tall. It could easily fit in something smaller if you wanted.
The kit is supplied with plenty of wire for you to be able to put it in nearly any chassis you might want. :thumb:
gary
-
Gary, I'm sending you more money tomorrow, I decided to get the light maple faceplate and chrome knobs. After all it was the looks that first got me then the sound, "you had me at hello".
-
See Gary's website for overall "Buffer" dimentions.
Edit - looks like Gary beat me to it. :lol:
Buffer module along will be fine in popular enclosure size of 12X12X4.
You can try something smaller :scratch: You might be forced into making a cut out for the tube. Amp is said to run on the cool side but adequate ventilation never hurts.
If you plan to integrate the battery into a single unit, full size would be in order...., something like 19X11X4.
I could be wrong - it wouldn't be the first time.
Nice case will cost you a bit under $100.
You can also get custom wood case made by AC member or "plug & play from Gary.
Mariusz :thumb:
-
Gary, I'm sending you more money tomorrow, I decided to get the light maple faceplate and chrome knobs. After all it was the looks that first got me then the sound, "you had me at hello".
As I recall
Gary's pre was one of the better looking components ever in my collection but it is the sound that I miss the most. But faceplate and knobs are really nice addition
Remote was also one of the coolest I've own.
Mariusz :thumb:
-
I will add the remote at some point maybe another few months.
-
I will add the remote at some point maybe another few months.
I feel ya. :cry:
-
I just spent the entire day listening to a Dodd battery buffer, now I'm
pumped up even more to get mine built, amazing piece of equipment. :eyebrows:
-
I noticed the latest:
http://doddaudio.com/TUBE.aspx
I have few tube ready :thumb:
-
I noticed the latest:
http://doddaudio.com/TUBE.aspx
I have few tube ready :thumb:
Thanks for creating this list Gary, much appreciated.
Best,
Ed
-
Nicely done.
http://doddaudio.com/DIYINSTRUCTION.aspx
:thumb:
-
Is there a top down picture of a completed DIY unit available?
Jeff
-
Is there a top down picture of a completed DIY unit available?
Jeff
see the links that I posted on reply #58. I've taken some close ups of my buffer.
or use these
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=75028.0
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=74866.0
-
If using a wooden box, how many devices need some sort of grounding scheme that the metal box would provide (electrically)?
Any thermal issues needing heatsinks on any devices with a wooden box?
-
Actually the way I have it built there is nothing that is in direct contact with the chassis. There is a ground buss that all the grounds connect to.
Nothing gets hot, so no heatsinking needed. Also the tube just gets warm, not hot to the touch so it's not even a problem inside a closed enclosure with little venting.
In the next couple of days I will show a pic of how it would look inside an enclosure. That way you can get an idea of the wire routing and such. :thumb:
Gary
-
Gary,
What about the voltage regulator on your Main Wiring sheet that you note "Mount To Chassis For Heatsinking", should we come up with a heatsink if using a wooden enclosure?
Thanks,
Ed
-
Would a set-up like this (http://www.redwineaudio.com/products/black-lightning) from redwine.com work for power?
-
Would a set-up like this (http://www.redwineaudio.com/products/black-lightning) from redwine.com work for power?
Of course but why spend that much on the power? Look at what you'll be spending on the item that actually makes the sound. I don't think the BL will make the buffer sound any better then a 12V battery hooked up to the buffer.
-
Ed, Thanks DUH I forgot about the reg! Heck just a small piece of aluminum about 2" square and 1/8" thick would be plenty, or a small heatsink. :thumb:
Gary
-
You could use a Red Wine battery supply if you wanted to. There will be no difference sonically. :nono: I would prefer you use a good AGM type battery and a good quality smart charger. Doing so you can connect the charger and leave it connected and plugged in all the time. Sonically you can not hear it and you never have to worry about your battery going dead. :eyebrows:
Gary
-
Like what I did?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=24970)
-
You could use a Red Wine battery supply if you wanted to. There will be no difference sonically. :nono: I would prefer you use a good AGM type battery and a good quality smart charger. Doing so you can connect the charger and leave it connected and plugged in all the time. Sonically you can not hear it and you never have to worry about your battery going dead. :eyebrows:
Gary
I have a 100AH AGM battery and a C-TEK charger set up and it is sweet! Just sits there, making no noise, making everybody happy :dance:
Here I am, the guy with the A/C solution to noise and I'm a Dodd Battery Dood. Who knew?
High quality audio reproduction is ALL about the elimination of noise in the power supply.
Gary, you TOTALLY ROCK!!!
:thumb:
Dave
-
Where is everyone getting their battery from?
-
How do you think two 6 volt lanteren batteries would work and how long do you believe they would last?
Robert
-
Like what I did?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=24970)
I've ordered a similar charger. Should be here tomorrow.
Got some extra batteries - 12V 17AH and some golf cart replacements to test the kit.
But I would also like to know a reliable brand and source for batteries as well.
There seems to be a big difference in quality between brands and some sources that sells those batteries, keeps them on shelves way to long.
Mariusz
-
I get all my batteries from a place called batteryplex.com. They have nearly all of the brands and their service is really good! :thumb:
I have been using them for well over 2 years and have had NO bad batteries.
Gary
-
Robert
2 6 volt lantern batteries in series would actually work, but depending on the tube used I don't think you should expect more than 3-4 hours on them, maybe less
Gary
-
+1 for Batteryplex. Gary told me about them when I needed new units for my Dodd battery preamp. Fast service and great prices!
-
Robert
2 6 volt lantern batteries in series would actually work, but depending on the tube used I don't think you should expect more than 3-4 hours on them, maybe less
Gary
Thank you for the info. What amp hour rating would you recomend to get good battery life?
Robert
-
For powering the buffer alone I recommend a 12 volt 26AH battery and a good quality smart charger like the C-Tek that is available from many sources.
gary
-
For powering the buffer alone I recommend a 12 volt 26AH battery and a good quality smart charger like the C-Tek that is available from many sources.
gary
+1
:thumb: See my post above #130. That's what I use...
charger purchase link: https://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=56-171/560.0.23205.0.0.0.0
-
Here is a cheaper link :wink:
http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-800-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B002QUT8IC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1271118303&sr=8-2
-
Mariusz I pm'd you earlier. I can't send you a buffer tomorrow without an address? :scratch:
Gary
-
Mariusz I pm'd you earlier. I can't send you a buffer tomorrow without an address? :scratch:
Gary
Hi Gary
PM send and big thanks for
making this kit available.
Cheers
Mariusz :thumb:
-
Gary,
I sent you two PM's on my shipping address. I made a mistake in the first one. :duh:
-
:drool:
Can't wait ......
:weights:
I'm ready
-
+1
:thumb: See my post above #130. That's what I use...
charger purchase link: https://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=56-171/560.0.23205.0.0.0.0
Does anyone know of a charger like this that one can also use and keep the buffer or whatever unit plugged in? That is a smart charger that charges the battery but lets you run off of current when desired?
-
Does anyone know of a charger like this that one can also use and keep the buffer or whatever unit plugged in? That is a smart charger that charges the battery but lets you run off of current when desired?
I actually use this charger and don't disconnect it. Honestly, I don't hear a difference with it connected or not. Mr. Dodd what are your thoughts?
-
Can the tube modules wire connectors be placed underneath (flipped) to
accommodate mounting tubes on top of case?
Jeff
-
Firedog, I recommend the C-TEK brand smart chargers. I use a model US-7000. I have it connected to the batteries and plugged in all of the time. I cannot hear any differences at all between plugged in and not plugged in. Also this way I never have to worry about the batteries being mistreated. :thumb:
Jeff, I would have to redesign the module to do that, the way it is now it cannot be mounted from the top.
-
Does anyone know of a charger like this that one can also use and keep the buffer or whatever unit plugged in? That is a smart charger that charges the battery but lets you run off of current when desired?
My C-tek is silent, at least to me and the half a dozen audiophools that frequent my place.
Highly recommended.
Dave
-
Gary
check your PayPal. :thumb:
and........thanks for all your help/assistance.
Having remote control handy will make listening to music a lot more enjoyable.
Regards
Mariusz :thumb:
-
First 5 kits shipped!!! :green: I can't wait to see what you guys think of it! :thumb:
gary
-
Recieved it today. :thumb:
That was fast. :scratch: .... :P
-
Received miine too! :thumb:
-
Shouldn't this be in "The Lab"?
-
Shouldn't this be in "The Lab"?
At this point it should be in both areas. The Lab will be needed when it's time for questions on assembly.
It is Cheap and Cheerful though :thumb:
-
Gary,
Is there a limit to the length of cables the Buffer can run?
-
Shouldn't this be in "The Lab"?
No.
As a complete kit with straight forward instractions ???.....again, No.
Build details, mods, tech questions can be posted in the Lab.
(this is introduction to affordable product but I won't ban :duh: anyone for asking a simple/inocente question). :wink:
Mariusz :)
-
The only limit to the length of the cables depends on the tube being used. For instance with a 6DJ8 the output impedance is 88 ohms, you could drive really long cables without issues, but with a 12AX7 who's output impedance is 505 ohms, there could be some issues driving long cables. You would have to give it a try and see what happens.
Gary
-
Gary,
Can you define what a long cable would be? 3m 5m or???
-
I'm using 25 footers witout any problems at all. :thumb:
Gary
-
I'm using 25 footers witout any problems at all. :thumb:
Gary
I'm using 9' without any issues. :thumb:
-
I asked this over in the DAC Amp threads and maybe Gary can answer this:
So let me try this again. Say we had a computer, into the solid state Db Labs dac, then a Dodd tube buffer, and then a 4800A or Cherry Jr., and then 87 db 4 ohm speakers.
Would the input and output impedances, gains, flavors, etc. allow the Dodd to actually control the volume???
-
Oh Yea! :green: And then some. It'll even sound awsome doing it!!! :green:
Gary
-
Back in post #121 Jkelly asked if there were any pics of the insides of 1 of the buffers. Jason posted some links to the first 2 tube version. The new 1 is a single tube model. Have a look at what I spent the last 2-3 days building! :drool: I reckon you can see whats on the inside with this baby! :thumb: What a pain in the you know what!! This is just a sample of what it will look like on the inside of a typical unit. It does not have to be this small. Oh yea, I did the remote the same way for those who wish to see whats in there.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29146)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29147)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29148)
You can see all the pics on the DIY page of my site, they will be on there shortly
Gary
-
Do you offer the acrylic enclosure in tinted colors? ;)
Steve
-
This is not an offer it is just a sample so kit builders can see a finished unit. I am not going to make more of these, too much time involved for what I could get for it. :nono:
gary
-
Gary,
Very nice chassis for the DIY buffer! :)
-
That is the cutest freakin' thing I've seen in a LONG time. (love the remote - even harder to find now :lol:)
Mariusz :thumb:
-
Gary,
That looks fantastic, you did a great job. :thumb:
-
http://doddaudio.com/DIYINSTRUCTION.aspx
Awesome
:thumb:
-
I drew up a new remote enclosure. :duh:
Just wondering if it's worth it. The buffer will still sound the same after all the chips. :bawl:
-
Is there a possibility that the Dodd Audio site could be down? :scratch:
This is the link I'm trying: http://doddaudio.com/default.aspx
-
The domain just expired.
-
The domain just expired.
That stinks! Hopefully nobody else takes it.
-
That sucks.
Hopefully Gary will figure it out.
-
Called Gary and he working on it.
-
:thumb:
Called Gary and he working on it.
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
-
I'm working on getting it back up. What a pain to wake up to no website! :scratch: It should be back in a bit guys!
gary
-
The website will be back up in less than 24 hours according to them, whoever them is. :green: Crappy thing is I never even got a reminder of it expiring. :nono:
Gary
-
Look like Dodd Audio site is up.
:thumb:
-
Sites back!!!! :green:
Gary
-
Not working for me. Is the address the same?
-
BIG RED
You may have to clear your catch file.
:scratch:
-
CACHE file. I always set the browser options to check for newer versions of stored pages every time I visit the webpage. With fairly quick computers and Internet connections, page caching no longer seems necessary or important.
And you are always looking at current page content.
Steve
-
:scratch:
I have no ideal, www.doddaudio.com working fine here, and I went through every pages.
:scratch:
Maybe more time? :evil:
-
Does not work for me either, also tried it on my Palm Pre and still no luck. But I'm sure it will be up by tomorrow. Really it doesn't matter for me until Wed. that is when my kit should arrive. :D
-
If you are trying the link under Gary's avatar I don't think that works, at least it never has for me. If you go to the link Trung has listed that should work, it worked for me.
Best,
Ed
-
No. Not working. CLeared the cache and all I get is a blue and green webpage saying it is the future home of Dodd.
-
It works for me.
(iPhone > safari and opera - both fine)
-
No. Not working. CLeared the cache and all I get is a blue and green webpage saying it is the future home of Dodd.
Well, very interesting. As I said, I'm loading a new page each time, but now I am getting the same page as BRM.
Thinking it may be that DNS entries were deleted after domain expiration, I tried to go to http://65.55.194.97 (http://65.55.194.97) and still get the parking page.
Edit: Did the web hosting account simultaneously expire, and doddaudio.com was issued a new IP address?
Steve
-
Steve (SL_1800)
Get you soldering gun warm up and ready. :eyebrows:
If you any help, I'll be right behind you (far ... far... far behind :D )
-
Steve (SRB)
I don't think they change the IP address, because the site hosting by office live, no change made there.
:scratch:
time will tell.
-
I think something is intermittent. All of a sudden I could load the page, and now I can't again.
The domain doesn't reply to ping, but it may be that the server is setup to deny ping requests.
Steve
-
Thanks for trying Steve (srb)
Thanks for all the help.
If it does not working on your end in the morning. Please let me know, I can give Gary a call.
And I make sure he have his coffee first though. :wink:
He was not a happy camper this morning. :evil: and without his coffee.
For mean time www.doddaudio.com , your F5 key is your friend :eyebrows:
-
:scratch:
Dodd site just went off
:scratch:
Just don't get it.
-
:scratch:
no problems here.
Just tried it again. Works fine. :scratch:
-
Works for me... and I'll be building a kit. :thumb:
-
I ordered tube buffer kit and wanted know what tube others have tried and their opinions
-
I ordered tube buffer kit and wanted know what tube others have tried and their opinions
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=74866.0
-
Thanks for link, just what I was looking for.
-
Thanks for link, just what I was looking for.
:thumb:
-
Did anyone download the instructions before the website went down? I can't see then currently.
-
I do not have any problem right now.
Went through every page and everything working ok.
:scratch:
www.doddaudio.com
-
I do not have any problem right now.
Went through every page and everything working ok.
:scratch:
www.doddaudio.com
yep. Works fine here. :thumb:
-
:duh:
:nono: Do not forget the little washer go between the RCA jack and the board :nono:
:duh: luckly me, I reallize ... but ... one RCA jack soldered on .... could be very bad :banghead: :banghead:
I should went to sleep then. :duh:
humm... sleep... naa... who need sleep :eyebrows:
-
Hey Gary,
My Buffer Kit arrived today, thanks.
Steve
-
This Buffer Kit is easier to assemble than I had thought. I soldered the input board the selector switch board and the power switch board in a very short amount of time, maybe an hour and a half.
-
Hi Gary
quick question:
- I copied this list of tubes from Virtue ICE mono block thread. These monos use your buffer which looks very similar to this kit. If that is the case, these tubes should be comparable with your buffer kit right?
Here is the list:
12ax7
ecc83
5751
6057
6681
7025
7382
7494
cv4004
e83cc
ecc803
ecc81
12at7
6060
6201
6679
7492
7728
e81cc
ecc801
cv4003
ecc82
12au7 5814
5063
5965
6067
6189
6680
7489
7730
e82cc
ecc802
6072
12ay7
12az7
Mariusz :)
-
I was able to finish soldering all of the PC board's components including the remote transmitter and receiver in under 3 hours. Gary's instructions are excellent and easy enough even a beginner could do it. I still have to mount everything in a box and wire it together but I would say this is one of the easiest electronic components I have ever built. Two BIG THUMBS UP Gary, nice job! :thumb: :thumb:
Can't wait to get it running!
Best,
Ed
-
What about pics Ed?
Super V's and Buffer? You're a busy man...
-
What about pics Ed?
Super V's and Buffer? You're a busy man...
Yes, a little too busy with my projects, I am starting to get a little grief from the boss :wink:.
Here is a pic of what I have done on the buffer so far:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29364)
Best,
Ed
-
Mariusz and everyone, all of the tubes listed will work in the buffer. :drool: it doesn't even matter what the filament voltage is because you have the option to switch between 6 or 12 volts. In fact any tube with the same pinout as the 12AX7 tube will work in the circuit. The difference is will it work well in your system as a whole? Each tube will have a different output impedance and therefore some will not work well in your system. The first tube list provided for the buffer pretty much covers the range of output impedances. 88 ohms for a 6DJ8 and 505 ohms for a 12AX7. If you have a tube in mind and would like to know the output impedance, let me know the tube number and I'll calculate it for you. Note that in my system both the 6DJ8 and the 12AX7 work well, so the impedance difference isn't a problem. :green:
Gary
-
Ed,
You're going to love the buffer. I LOVE mine!
It replaced a preamp that was 10x the cost. :(
-
Ed,
You're going to love the buffer. I LOVE mine!
It replaced a preamp that was 10x the cost. :(
I believe I will. For what Gary is asking for the kit it is a bit of a no brainer, you can hardly get a volume control for the cost, as long as you are willing to roll up your sleeves! :thumb:
Best,
Ed
-
I believe I will. For what Gary is asking for the kit it is a bit of a no brainer, you can hardly get a volume control for the cost, as long as you are willing to roll up your sleeves! :thumb:
Best,
Ed
I agree 1,000,000%!
I also see that you did the Sonic Platinum bypass upgrade. Good idea as I was shocked at the difference. I purchased mine when they first came out (assembled) and then did the bypass upgrade. I have even more :drool:
I HIGHLY recommend this to all.
-
Yes, a little too busy with my projects, I am starting to get a little grief from the boss :wink:.
Here is a pic of what I have done on the buffer so far:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29364)
Best,
Ed
Ed,
I feel like such a slacker :oops: I've had my Super V kits for a few months and All I have done so far is to get the main baffle construction done.
You do very nice work.
The Platinum upgrade was a good one, just like Jason said.
You go.....
Dave
-
I was able to finish soldering all of the PC board's components including the remote transmitter and receiver in under 3 hours. Gary's instructions are excellent and easy enough even a beginner could do it. I still have to mount everything in a box and wire it together but I would say this is one of the easiest electronic components I have ever built. Two BIG THUMBS UP Gary, nice job! :thumb: :thumb:
Can't wait to get it running!
Best,
Ed
Looking good. :drool:
Wish I had a bit more extra time. :?
•••••••
Thanks Gary and that is pretty amazing gamma of tubes that work with
the design. Awesome.
P.S
all parts are in.
One more package to go. :thumb:
•••••••
I have even more :drool:
More of what jtwrace??? mods? ideas? Secrets? :lol:
Do tell my friend
:eyebrows:
-
No secrets...just more drool :drool: with the bypass caps.
-
If you guy's don't stop :drool: you will short something out! :D
-
No secrets...just more drool :drool: with the bypass caps.
How $ are those upgrade caps?
Might get some of those and others to roll.
Any other recommendations???
:wink:
-
How $ are those upgrade caps?
Might get some of those and others to roll.
Any other recommendations???
:wink:
They're $40. I had a long talk with gary over using something more exotic. He suggested I stick with these.
-
I know Gary likes those.
•••••••••••••••••••••••
Gary
I preped eveything and it is coming along pretty nice.
My first DIY preamp. :oops: :wink:
Seems like I got everything except for 1 - AXICOM 12V relay
I might get those bypass caps after all. :lol:
Also
I haven't seen any reference to non motorize volume control (stock) instalation.
And wire to board wireing for that and motorized alps.
It would help rookies like myself.
:wink:
-
Mariusz on the instructions page under diagrams there are 2 items. 1 of them is the main wiring diagram and it shows the wiring for the non remote pot. The other diagram shows how to wire the remote volume board into the buffer.
Did you get the second package that had a relay and a switch in it along with a small heatsink and some tie-wraps? Also there is the 3rd package with the fully built and tested remote control kit you ordered. :thumb:
Gary
-
Just double checked and you were right, 12V relay is there along with the switch, heat sink, 10 piner & ties. :duh:
I think that is all.
Pictures on your website are really helpful and they make the assembly a snap.
Mariusz
-
Gary,
There is a switch in the kit.......wiring diagram shows it as 6V - 12V. Does this mean the unit can run on a 6V source or a 12V source?
Also I have all of by parts and pieces soldered and ready to put into the chassis. Looking forward to getting this baby up and running.
-
Steve
The switch is for your tube, switching between 12v and 6v tube.
:thumb:
-
Thanks Trung, yes, it is for switching the filament voltage from 6 volts to 12 volts. :thumb:
-
Hey all ,the requested changes to the instructions have been finished. Check it out and please let me know if there is anything else I need to change to make it easier to build this thing. :thumb:
Gary
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I agree 1,000,000%!
I also see that you did the Sonic Platinum bypass upgrade. Good idea as I was shocked at the difference. I purchased mine when they first came out (assembled) and then did the bypass upgrade. I have even more :drool:
I HIGHLY recommend this to all.
What is the "Sonic Platinum bypass upgrade" ? What is bypass cap value? :scratch: I think I need to keep this in mind for when I build my own kit. If there are upgrades and tweeks that make this buffer better, then I will go for it.
Robert
-
The upgrade to Sonicap Platinums as a bypass cap . It wires across the original 3.3uf Sonicap. The value of the cap is .01uf and it's a Sonicap Platinum. It DOES make nice differences sonically. The best part is , it is a nice improvement for cheap ($40) for a pair of them :green:
gary
-
The upgrade to Sonicap Platinums as a bypass cap . It wires across the original 3.3uf Sonicap. The value of the cap is .01uf and it's a Sonicap Platinum. It DOES make nice differences sonically. The best part is , it is a nice improvement for cheap ($40) for a pair of them :green:
gary
That's pretty good deal.
But let me touch on that....a bit.
So why use a bypass caps at all?
- will .01uf SP smooth out the top end, remove some edginess, clean things up or add some benefitial coloration?
Just curious :scratch: :thumb:
Mariusz
-
They will do all of that and then some. :drool: But DO NOT expect ANY colorations! :nono:
Gary
-
Thanks Gary
that's what I though.
So, (more or less) the only coloration will be associated with tube choice.
Sounds good to me.
P.S
that is how I remember your top of the line preamp.
Transparent as far as the circuit is concern but telling and revealing in tube characteristics.
Mariusz
-
Gary,
Would it be possible for you to tell us what specs we need to look for to determine whther or not a tube is suitable for the buffer? Also, it would be good to have the equation to determine the output impedence. I know I have a number of 6 volt tubes I pulled from an old console years ago, I'm sure others have stock as well. Of the tubes I have one is on the list on your website. I wouldn't want to bother you with looking them all up to determine compatibility.
Thanks,
Ed
-
Ed that would be quite tough to tell you the equation. I use a spice modeling software and the computor to determine the output impedance. :eyebrows:
I really don't mind inputing all the specs and giving you an answer on any tube as lond as I can find the spec on it. Heck that way even I get to learn something and build a better tube info base :thumb:
Gary
-
Ed that would be quite tough to tell you the equation. I use a spice modeling software and the computor to determine the output impedance. :eyebrows:
I really don't mind inputing all the specs and giving you an answer on any tube as lond as I can find the spec on it. Heck that way even I get to learn something and build a better tube info base :thumb:
Gary
Understood, thanks for the reply. Once I get mine up and running and have put some hours on it I will hit you up for some tube info.
Thanks Gary,
Ed
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Dodd remote arrived.
Love it.
Feels like a brick.
Gary, thank you for assembling the board and transmiter + housing for me.
It's a huge help.
•Q•. - Is the wooden remote shell pre-finished or not?
(it sure feels like it has been "licked" )
Mariusz :wink:
-
No finish. I left that for you to do.
gary
-
:lol: :wink:
-
Mariusz
Just put some orange oil on it and it will look good (light wood color)
:thumb:
http://howardproducts.com/orange.htm
-
Mariusz
Just put some orange oil on it and it will look good (light wood color)
:thumb:
http://howardproducts.com/orange.htm
it looks so good that I am considering finishing it with "salad bowl safe" natural oil. Makes it safe to lick it up, down and between those red buttons. :drool:
-
OH MAN it's gettin deep here! :icon_lol:
gary
-
" lick it up, down and between those red buttons"
:scratch: hummm.... I may have to take a closer look at my Dodd remote control
:wink:
-
Sounds like I need a remote kit sooner than I thought. :lol:
-
Gary....
Nice job with the Plexi case work.... 8)
Have a ... :birthday: :beer:
-
This is so tempting. Would this be a good project for a rank newbie ( read that as no pcb soldering or other electronic assembly experience).
-
I'm considering buying this kit but I'm not sure how to determine if a passive will work in my system.
I have modified/restored Heathkit W5m monoblocks and currently using a Bolder SB3 in conjunction with a Mhdt Constantine DAC. If I bypass my current pre (AVA T7) and use the SB3 for volume control I can get sufficient volume at about 70% of full volume with the digital vol. control and I can get a reasonably high vol @100%.
However I'm a little worried about headroom with various source materials. I'm not sure how to interpret the various input/output specs in relation to my system and if SB3/Mhdt will have enough balls for adequate volume and headroom. I believe that the Heathkits were originally designed to be used with an active pre.
Any advice will be appreciated.
-Roy
-
I'm considering buying this kit but I'm not sure how to determine if a passive will work in my system.
It's actually an active buffer, and will provide better impedance matching than a passive linestage, but the gain is 1, so your concerns about volume and gain still apply.
Steve
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usp1, this kit is for anyone who can use a few basic handtools and a soldering iron. I have done the hard soldering for you. You can see for yourself how easy it is by having a look at the DIY page on my site doddaudio.com. You'll have fun building it! :green:
Gary
-
Roy, thats a tough one to answer. It will be different in every system. I am currently running a SB Duet thru a Wolfson DAC on batteries and I have more than enough system gain for all of the amps I have ever had in my system. The modded HK's should still be able to be driven to full output with around 1.2-1.5 volts and most equipment now provides at least 2 volts output. I would think that you should be able to achieve very good volume levels and headroom without issues. I have no problems in my system at all, and that's with many kinds of amps.
Gary
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usp1, this kit is for anyone who can use a few basic handtools and a soldering iron. I have done the hard soldering for you. You can see for yourself how easy it is by having a look at the DIY page on my site doddaudio.com. You'll have fun building it! :green:
Gary
So could i start with the basic kit...no chasis or anything nice...make sure I can assemble everything and get it running before I invest in the remaining add ons? That way I risk $325 and if that works out well then I go for the rest. Sound reasonable?
-
So could i start with the basic kit...no chasis or anything nice...make sure I can assemble everything and get it running before I invest in the remaining add ons? That way I risk $325 and if that works out well then I go for the rest. Sound reasonable?
Makes sense.
I am rookie myself and the most challenging IMO would be the assemble of the remote control board.
But since Gary was kind enough to do the dirty work for me, all I have to do now is to finish the wooden transmiter enclosure with my own, natural oils. :drool:
-
YEP! You can do it! :thumb:
Gary
-
Gary,you have a PM.
Thanks,
Ed
-
This is so tempting. Would this be a good project for a rank newbie ( read that as no pcb soldering or other electronic assembly experience)
Gary's web site shows pics of how everything should look when completed. If you pay attention to the pics and just compare your work to the pics on his site then a real knowledge of electronics is not much of a requirement. I have built a few kits but I found this one to be extremely simple.
-
Thank you all...for the words of encouragement. Gary's instructions seem quite simple and I will be ordering a kit. It may have to wait for assembly though until I can get some contiguous free time.
-
usp1 That's great! :thumb: I am sure that when you get the kit if you have any questions or need any help, I bet that there are some AC members and myself that can help out with anything that may come up. :eyebrows:
gary
-
It took me about two hours to finish all of the boards (I am sure it can be done in half an hour for someone with experience).
All went pretty smooth ....... but ...... :lol:
I screwed up the possition (wrong side) of the 10 pin dual-row header on the inputs board. I do have de-soldering iron with pump but solder points are so close to each other that it is possible for me to screw it up.
Q- what is the best way to go about it
(temperature? etc. I've Radio Shack Digital Soldering Station with presets and adj. temp. )
thanks in advance
Mariusz :wink:
-
(http://doddaudio.com/images/RCA3.jpg)
Ouch, I think you can use your de-soldering tool and remove it.
Good luck
-
IF all Fail, build this instead:
http://xkcd.com/730/ (http://xkcd.com/730/)/
-
IF all Fail, build this instead:
http://xkcd.com/730/ (http://xkcd.com/730/)/
That was my reference. :lol:
I'll give it a shot tomorrow.
Fingers crossed. :o
:wink:
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Mariusz,
It has been my experience that for a multipin component Solder Wick (they should have this at Radio Shack) has worked best. Luckily in this case you can use plenty of heat because this is not an active component that will burn up, but still be careful as you don't want to lift the paths off the board.
Good Luck!
Ed
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Mariusz if you have any problems getting it out you can always send it to me and I'll take care of it for you. I do have the way and the experience to do it without issues.
Gary
-
Thanks everyone.
I'll give it a shot later today
& report back.
PS
I'll be building my own enclousures (this buffer, Class D amp and another buffer-recasing) made out of Maple - except top and bottom.
I came across this company who sells mirror like finish aluminium & steel sheets/plates but forgot to bookmark the page. Now I can't find it for crap.
Anyone got a source ?
Mariusz :wink:
-
http://www.onlinemetalstore.com/
-
Thanks, got this one just in case but I do not think they have what I need.
Nice stuff tho. OK prices.
The sheets I was looking at were just like mirror. Used for interiors, boats, RVs, custom bikes etc.
They sell by sheets but do send samples of 12"x12" cheap.
I think, next size was 12"by24"???? Not sure if they do custom sizes????
:wink:
-
Thanks, got this one just in case but I do not think they have what I need.
Nice stuff tho. OK prices.
The sheets I was looking at were just like mirror. Used for interiors, boats, RVs, custom bikes etc.
They sell by sheets but do send samples of 12"x12" cheap.
I think, next size was 12"by24"???? Not sure if they do custom sizes????
:wink:
You can use one of my cases and put the Class D and the Buffer inside. I think it would work. Just a thought...
-
Thanks, got this one just in case but I do not think they have what I need.
Nice stuff tho. OK prices.
The sheets I was looking at were just like mirror. Used for interiors, boats, RVs, custom bikes etc.
They sell by sheets but do send samples of 12"x12" cheap.
I think, next size was 12"by24"???? Not sure if they do custom sizes????
:wink:
The link I gave sells any size with no minimum order. They cut to the size that you request. Just put in the size you need.
-
The link I gave sells any size with no minimum order. They cut to the size that you request. Just put in the size you need.
I know they do but not sure if they have that "Mirror like" finish?
Jtwrace
thanks for the offer
your cases look very practical and easy to work with but making it easy is not my thing....... I'm polish. :lol:
I would have take you on you offer but Ill go with wood to match the rest of my gear/deco.
Mariusz :wink:
-
Hey guys, I'm listening to my buffer! :thumb:
My son had a wrestling meet in Franklin IN this weekend, this required an overnght stay. I figured while he and his buddies were messing around after the meet I would work on my buffer at the hotel. I had already soldered everything (so I thought, more later) and had modded my case to be able to mount the RCA's etc. So I was able to finish my wiring of the buffer in about 3 hours Sat. night, most of that time was making up my mind how to route the wiring. Once I arrived home I put my battery in the case, installed the fuse and tube, connected my RCAs and powered up. Surprise! It all worked, first try! The remote worked and everything was playing, the problem was I had very noticable distortion. I called Gary and he thought it might be the tube. I had a couple of other tubes available but no luck, the distortion was still there. I called Gary again and he recommended trying another amp, again no change. I then remembered that I meant to look into the reason I had two diodes left, so I started looking around in the amp and sure enough I found two diode locations empty on the remote control reciever board right in front of the relays, I looked at Gary's instructions to verify where they were suppose to be installed and there they were. I installed the two diodes and VIOLA, clean music! I am very happy with it although it is much too early to offer feedback on the sound.
The remote works great (although I will refrain from licking it :wink:).
I went ahead and built the buffer into my unfinished case, I did this because I have a large speaker project I am in the middle of and I didn't want to wait to hear the buffer. I will be finishing the case once I have the speakers completed. I have built the buffer so that I can easily take out all of the componenets without having to unsolder anything (I was not able to solder the fuse case, everything else is soldered).
I found Gary's instructions to be excellent and had no trouble putting this together.
Anyway, here are a few pics!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29487)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29488)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29489)
Best,
Ed
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Cool Ed.
Hope to finish (use) my by next tue.
Trying to figure out the way to rise the potted tube socket so the tube itself would be accessible from the top without removing the cover?????
How does it sound so far????
Nice case won't make it sound better.
So...., how is it?
:wink: :thumb:
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Ed That's great!!! :thumb: 1st one done and it works WOOHOOO.
Let us all know how it sounds.
Gary
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Cool Ed.
Hope to finish (use) my by next tue.
Trying to figure out the way to rise the potted tube socket so the tube itself would be accessible from the top without removing the cover?????
How does it sound so far????
Nice case won't make it sound better.
So...., how is it?
:wink: :thumb:
Too early to offer much feedback other than it sounds really good right now. I am using this with my Class D amp, they will look basically the same when finished.
I can't offer much more than that becasuse I am presently listenig to music from 200Hz up, I am building Danny's V-1s and I am only listening to the coaxs, so no bass.
I hope to finish the speakers in the next couple of weeks.
Best,
Ed
-
Got it.
Hope your speakers project works out as smooth as this one.
:wink:
-
I can tell you I am listening to Shelby Lynn's "Rainy Night In Georgia" and she has never sounded better on my system :thumb: :thumb:. I can't wait to get this system back together!
Best,
Ed
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Trying to figure out the way to rise the potted tube socket so the tube itself would be accessible from the top without removing the cover?????
Mariusz, I considered this as well. The solution I came up with although I decided not to implement was to mount a bracket to the lid that would bend down and under the tube block then back up to the lid. You could probably do this from the bottom of the case as well, that may work better. I was going to use some 1" wide aluminum bar stock that I have. Of couse only about half the tube would penetrate the top but that should be enough to make changing tubes without rmoving the lid doable.
Best,
Ed
-
ED
:thumb:
Dodd buffer rules :eyebrows:
Good ideal to keep the battery inside the chassis.
-
Ed That's great!!! :thumb: 1st one done and it works WOOHOOO.
Let us all know how it sounds.
Gary
Yes Gary, how about that! Your instructions are so good that I wouldn't hesitate recommending this kit to anyone who knows which end of the soldering iron gets hot! :wink:
This thing is fresh but I can tell already that I like what I am hearing, especially Shelby Lynn's voice.
More as this thing breaks in and I have some full range speakers connected.
Best,
Ed
-
ED
:thumb:
Dodd buffer rules :eyebrows:
Good ideal to keep the battery inside the chassis.
Thanks Trung. If I can get 10 hrs out of the 5ah batt that should be all I need. If I decide that I need more than the 5ah can give then it is a simple matter of removing two wires and connecting to the Neutrik with the batt instead of the charger.
Best,
Ed
-
Mariusz, I considered this as well. The solution I came up with although I decided not to implement was to mount a bracket to the lid that would bend down and under the tube block then back up to the lid. You could probably do this from the bottom of the case as well, that may work better. I was going to use some 1" wide aluminum bar stock that I have. Of couse only about half the tube would penetrate the top but that should be enough to make changing tubes without rmoving the lid doable.
Best,
Ed
Came to the same conclusion as you Ed except, I am a bit more in favor of a bottom "riser" mounting solution.
:wink:
-
OK,........ It took me half an hour to do it but it's a success.....almost. :lol:
Gary my friend
I have to ask you for another 10 pin header. :cry:
But good news is - no need to fix my screw ups.
It would also make sense to get those by-pass caps and extra Cardas solder.
Please let me know the total via PM Gary.
And one less request for all those who opt to go with the ugly boxes -
is it possible to get some logo sticker for those DIY enclousures ?
I have this cheap wood burning tool with letter set which might work but if you have something more original....... it would be just lovely!
Regards and
thanks for everything
in advence
Mariusz :thumb:
-
Mariusz
Another option for the panel logo:
Ask Gary nicely he may send you a DODD AUDIO logo ( stick on) may be in a thin wood .. some sort.
I think Gary is setting up his engraving machine. :thumb:
-
That would be really nice.
PLEASE!!!! :drool:
PS
to make it easier for others I finished a wooden box with clear 1/4" plexiglass top.
It should make nice addition to Gary's "Ghost" enclosure.
I will also do my best to rise the tube pot so it is accessible from the top.
It will be small enclosure tho - 8"x8"x5".
Cheers
Mariusz :thumb:
-
Mariusz
Can you rise the tube by adding a block (wood??) the height needed?
Look at the way the tube holder build, you can not rise too high up though, maybe 1/2 of the tube showing.
-
Mariusz
Can you rise the tube by adding a block (wood??) the height needed?
Look at the way the tube holder build, you can not rise too high up though, maybe 1/2 of the tube showing.
Yupp, you could use wood block riser or other
similar. 1/2 tube showing might not be enough tho ..... we will see.
Clear cover will be removable and •no screws whatsoever• but I would like to try to show some possibilities for fellow audiophiles wondering about easy tube access.
I'll dry fit everything tomorrow and report back the results.
-
:eyebrows:
Double check with the ruler, you can get 2/3 of the tube out, which made possible to remove the tube.
If you use a block of wood, cut little long and cut to fit.
(easy said than doing it :duh: )
-
Wires on both sides of the tube socket will have to be banded a bit tho.... but it shouldn't be an issue.
-
Stand on the tube socket, the wires should be nicely flat :wink:
Don't forget to shot some photo.
-
Stand on the tube socket, the wires should be nicely flat :wink:
Don't forget to shot some photo.
I'll try :wink:
-
Alright guys, I need to share what I am hearing. First, let me cover what I am hearing it on. I have been listening to the V-1 coax for about a year now (couldn't believe it had been that long so I verified via Paypal). I listened to them with my Augies until about a month ago when I sold the Augies, I am in the process of building the V-1s. Because of this I can only address what I am hearing from 200Hz and up.
For the last two months I have been listening to the coaxs fed by my ClassD amp (connected directly to my Havana DAC, volume control by MPD). I work from home so I have music going much of the time.
I started listening to the buffer yesterday and now have about 13 hrs on it, so it has not fully broken in. What I am hearing is no self noise, the buffer does not add any noise that I can detect (on 97dB speakers), this has always been a concern of mine and one of the reasons I have always been a minimalist when it comes to equipment, less has always equaled better to me, not any more! I feel the buffer is alowing me to hear more of what is on the recording although for me this seems counter-intuitive. I hesitate to write the following because it is said in nearly all audio equipment reviews, I am hearing things I have not heard before in tracks I am very familiar with, subtle things that I should have heard long ago, for instance a quietly struck bell near the end of Madman Across the Water, I have heard this track hundreds of times over the past 30+ years, but I have never noticed this before. I am hearing better separation, definition and tonality of individual instruments, the piano sounds more like a piano than any other system I have ever heard (not that I get to hear many different systems). I have not heard much difference in the male voice but some female voices have taken on a more sultry presentation.
This is what I have heard so far. Of course I hoped to hear improvements but I did not know where/if they would show themselves, I am excited to hear what further changes occur as this unit breaks in, I know the platinum bypass caps can really smooth out over time as they did in the V-1 crossover.
Yes, I am gushing about my new project/aquisition, but I am very pleased with the outcome and can't wait to hear the system once the V-1s are complete.
Great job Gary, thanks for offering this great kit! :thumb: :thumb:
Best,
Ed
edit: I should mention for others that may want to use this buffer with the ClassD amps that when stacked on top of my unshielded ClassD amp I picked up a hum, moving the buffer next to the amp solved this issue.
-
Gary,
It appears I am getting about 7.5 hrs out of a 5ah battery using the stock tube (6H1N-EB). Can you tell me where this tubes falls in efficiency as compared to other typical tubes? Also, will a 12V tube last longer since we aren't dissipating energy as heat in the voltage regulator?
Thanks,
Ed
-
Hey Ed That 6N1P is the highest filament current out of all the tubes coming in at close to 1 amp. A 12AX7 uses 150 milliamps and I use a 6DJ8 that uses about 360 ma. 12 volt tubes will have a lesser filament current than most 6 volt tubes, and yes when you use a 12 volt tube the reg is doing nothing.
Gary
-
This may come across as a silly question:
If all I will use are one set of inputs and both outputs, is there any sonic benefit to leaving the add'l RCA connectors (inputs and record out) off the board and skipping the input selector switch?
I would have to redo the bullet-proof common ground for the RCAs since I am using fewer RCAs, but I can manage that.
Just wondering ...
Thanks,
David
-
Gary,
Can you recommend a pre-startup test plan? Things that can be checked using a mmeter.
-
It's doable. IMO I cannot see any sonic differences. While the unit is being used there is only 1 input selected at a time, all others are not there. The traces going to the jacks and to the relays are pure copper and very large and short so I really cannot see any differences there. You need the turn on delay/mute circuit for normal operation. The selector only carries 12 volts so there is no concern of audio on those wires.
gary
-
dnewcomer I have tested all of the potted modules before shipping them. The only thing I can really recommend is to be sure of the polarity of all the power and grounds are correct and check the wiring to be sure it's correct. Make sure to check the boards for solder bridges and any other problem. Be sure all components are in correctly, (diodes and such).
You can turn it on and it WILL work! :green:
Gary
-
Thanks for the response, Gary.
It's doable. IMO I cannot see any sonic differences. While the unit is being used there is only 1 input selected at a time, all others are not there. The traces going to the jacks and to the relays are pure copper and very large and short so I really cannot see any differences there. You need the turn on delay/mute circuit for normal operation. The selector only carries 12 volts so there is no concern of audio on those wires.
gary
Given that you probably have better ears than I do (and certainly more experience), I will build the buffer the way it came. Less chance of screwing it up too.
David
-
Sorry for late reply. (Family emergency)
Did not have too much free time on my hands today.
I did however, some dry fitting today and tried to discover possibility of "tube through top cover" approach.
Without further ado, here are some pictures (from iphone :duh:):
First - use larger bit for ins/outs. Do not drill right through. Leave 1/8 thickness of the material.(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29585)
Use smaller bit (RCA size) and continue drilling through. Use the center mark from previous bit as guide.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29586)
Dry fit, make sure it goes in and out smoothly. Use long-nose pliers to tightening the nuts. :roll:(that did not sound too good)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29587)
Now, do the same for both switches and volume pot - next 3 pics. (single hole with counter sink for remote receiver next to the volume pot)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29588)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29589)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29590)
And few shots of the tube pot riser clear-bridge, overall view (not finished yet), tube cutout.......
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29591)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29592)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29593)
Now, I need few more parts and try to connect all boards, pots and switches, hook up the battery and hopefully listen to some fine music.
:wink:
-
Mariusz
Looking good so far :thumb:
I like the way you drilled at the RCA jack, you may give the socket a try instead the needle nose. :wink:
Few more wires, She will sing your favor tune.
:thumb:
-
Mariusz
Looking good so far :thumb:
I like the way you drilled at the RCA jack, you may give the socket a try instead the needle nose. :wink:
Few more wires, She will sing your favor tune.
:thumb:
You're right, ratchet might have been easier.
•box is the cheapest solution I found - $9 IKEA.
link to planter box (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70066097)
Needs to be trim few inches of the top tho (pics coming later today)
•tools needed - ratchet set or long nose pliers, drill bit set, table saw or hand saw + stady hand, electric or battery drill.
Have fun
:wink:
Edit- added link
-
Mariusz, what are the sizes of the bits for all the holes and how thick is wood in your box? I'm planning to try to make a box or at least part of the box out of stone, I have some granite, marble and sandstone on order and want to get any diamond bits I will need ordered. Thanks for all the good info.
-
Hey Ed That 6N1P is the highest filament current out of all the tubes coming in at close to 1 amp. A 12AX7 uses 150 milliamps and I use a 6DJ8 that uses about 360 ma. 12 volt tubes will have a lesser filament current than most 6 volt tubes, and yes when you use a 12 volt tube the reg is doing nothing.
Gary
Thanks for the info Gary. I have a 5751 Sylvania Gold Label Black plate - triple mica - "D" getter halo in the buffer right now and it is sounding mighty fine! Funny, I didn't lke this tube in my Jolida 102B. I will update this post with the milage I get from the 5ah battery using this tube.
Best,
Ed
-
Mariusz, what are the sizes of the bits for all the holes and how thick is wood in your box? I'm planning to try to make a box or at least part of the box out of stone, I have some granite, marble and sandstone on order and want to get any diamond bits I will need ordered. Thanks for all the good info.
3/8" and 5/8"
1/2" if you need a bit extra room in case of slight screw ups.
Hope it helps.
•••••••••••
Gary
a quick question:
Just got some woofers and plate amp from Danny and wonder if
running speakers and subs presents any issues?
Mariusz
-
Knobs for my buffer.
It's made to fit with Dodd buffer.
:thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29641)
-
Mariusz, no problems that's why there are 2 sets of outputs. it will work just fine. :thumb:
gary
-
Knobs for my buffer.
It's made to fit with Dodd buffer.
:thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29641)
who makes those.
NICE!!
Mariusz, no problems that's why there are 2 sets of outputs. it will work just fine. :thumb:
gary
thanks Gary
Mariusz :thumb:
-
I ordered from Gary, I think he going to add to the website soon.
Slightly more than 1/2 off the Chrome knobs.
:thumb:
-
I ordered from Gary, I think he going to add to the website soon.
Slightly more than 1/2 off the Chrome knobs.
:thumb:
I am in for two sets. :drool:
Dark/light options or .......?
-
I think Gary going to make few wood type and few color choices.
So when your buffer going to sing Mariusz?
-
I think Gary going to make few wood type and few color choices.
So when your buffer going to sing Mariusz?
Great news. Love those wood knobs ..... and the price is right.
As to when my kit will sing well, as soon ad I get those by-pass caps and pin header which I destroyed in the process of de-soldering it from the board.
(I have to say, Gary is very helpful and patient in the process :thumb:)
If all goes well, I will have it sing by the end of the weekend.
Thanks
a bunch
Mariusz
-
:duh: Oh Yea OOPS
Friendly remind:
Make sure your battery fully charged.
For mean time you can make the power cable and ready to hook up the battery
:thumb:
-
Gary -
Would a 5670 396A 2C51 RAYTHEON WINDMILL GETTER work in this?
I just picked up an older Bryston 4B, need a pre for it. I bought the above tubes for testing with a tubed DAC and liked the sound of them.
-
The 5670, 396/2C51 will not work in the buffer. They all have a different pinout. :nono
Gary
-
The 5670, 396/2C51 will not work in the buffer. They all have a different pinout. :nono
Gary
Thanks for the prompt response. I'm kinda fascinated by this project, is the AC members pricing and free shipping still available?
-
Sure is! :thumb:
Gary
-
Sure is! :thumb:
Gary
:dance: :drool: :dance:
Gary
please sign me up for those cool wood knobs.
If possible, in maple - both sets.
:drool:
-
:duh: Oh Yea OOPS
Friendly remind:
Make sure your battery fully charged.
For mean time you can make the power cable and ready to hook up the battery
:thumb:
Sure will.
Just checked.
I have one 12V14Ah battery on its way (it is relatively small and might fit in the same enclosure) and emergency back up - 12V17Ah (not as compact).
If it sounds very good, I'll probably get another one for 2nd system.
Mariusz :wink:
-
If it sounds very good, I'll probably get another one for 2nd system.
Mariusz :wink:
You might as well order it now. :thumb:
-
Any problem with using one of these since I have one lying around?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29675)
A Mazda Miata battery. A 12V sealed AGM battery with 31AH, plus a whopping 475 cold cranking amps for those audio days below freezing.
David
-
Not a problem at all...as long as it's a sealed AGM you're fine.
31 AH will last a looooooooong time.
I use a 28 AH.
-
Thanks for the info.
With 31 AH, maybe I have room for battery operated tube amps sometime in the future.
Sweet.
David
-
maybe I have room for battery operated tube amps sometime in the future.
Sweet.
David
Depends on the efficiency of the speakers.
-
Not a problem at all...as long as it's a sealed AGM you're fine.
31 AH will last a looooooooong time.
I use a 28 AH.
jtwrace
what is the max. play time with your 28Ah???
My battery is half that size - so obviously I'm curious.
As to buying 2nd unit.
This will have to wait
for just a bit. But at this (and 2-3X)
price point there is not much to choose from
which makes it NO BRAINER!
Mariusz :wink:
-
jtwrace
what is the max. play time with your 28Ah???
My battery is half that size - so obviously I'm curious.
Mariusz :wink:
At 12hrs I shut it off...still more to go though.
-
At 12hrs I shut it off...still more to go though.
Alright, so for 14Ah, it would be somewhere around half...... depending on ???????
-
Alright, so for 14Ah, it would be somewhere around half...... depending on ???????
A lot will depend on the tube. Don't forget that I have the first version which uses two tubes. With my tubes my unit draws ~700ma. Gary says 2hrs per 1AH. I think.
Gary?
-
Efficiency of speakers, hmm. GR Research Neo 2Xs (85dB). But I only plan to listen for at most 3 hours at a time. Plus the listening distance is only eight feet from the speakers. That means Gary's battery amp output of 15 watts would provide 92dB at the listening position.
Worst case, I suppose I could wire two of these batteries in parallel.
Thanks.
David
-
Is this a 1 tube or 2 tube unit?
On this thread it seems to be 1, but another thread concerning a Dodd Buffer shows 2 tubes.
I'm confused?!? :scratch:
-
Mariusz, with the 6N1P I ship with each kit you'll probably be able to get 12 hours or so of operation. Any other tube will not use nearly as much current and will last much longer. Example would be a 12AX7, it would go around 30 hours or so.
On another note if you are using a good smart charger you can go forever and not worry about it!
It is a 1 tube unit now.
Gary
-
Mariusz, with the 6N1P I ship with each kit you'll probably be able to get 12 hours or so of operation. Any other tube will not use nearly as much current and will last much longer. Example would be a 12AX7, it would go around 30 hours or so.
On another note if you are using a good smart charger you can go forever and not worry about it!
It is a 1 tube unit now.
Gary
12-30h !!!!!! Wow!!! Need some more LPs and coffee!
:drool:
Thanks Gary :thumb:
-
jtwrace
what is the max. play time with your 28Ah???
My battery is half that size - so obviously I'm curious.
As to buying 2nd unit.
This will have to wait
for just a bit. But at this (and 2-3X)
price point there is not much to choose from
which makes it NO BRAINER!
Mariusz :wink:
Guys, with the 5751 installed (12V) I have been running 8 hours now and the battery is still reading 12.28 volts. I think I will easily get way over 10 hours with this tube using a 5ah battery!
Best,
Ed
-
Etcarroll
"Is this a 1 tube or 2 tube unit"
The Dodd buffer kits offer is single tube.
I think the 2 tubes version is an early one.
-
13.5 hours on a 5ah battery before I had to shut it down tonight, it was still going strong. BTW, that is with no charger hooked up, my charger causes a hum when connected.
Best,
Ed
-
Ed
13.5 hrs, wow, Very good.
Thanks for the info.
:thumb:
-
Gary
received caps & pin header.
Back in bussines.
and some pics:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29691)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29692)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29693)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29694)
:wink:
-
Ed
13.5 hrs, wow, Very good.
Thanks for the info.
:thumb:
Yes, much more life out of the 5ah battery with the 12V tube than the 6V, of course I was using a 6V that ate a lot of current. This is probably only interesting to those who want to use a small battery so that it can live in the same case as the pre.
Best,
Ed
-
Gary
received caps & pin header.
Back in bussines.
Looking good Mariusz, I like that box! Looks like you should be able to change tubes out easily enough, good job!
Best,
Ed
-
Mariuzs
Looking good and she may start to sing before the night is over.
:wink:
I like the tube lay-out.
:thumb:
And the wooden knobs goes with it, oh yea, looking fine.
:eyebrows:
-
Thanks guys!!!
No, won't sing tonight.
Just put a light walnut stain and plan on finishing it with few coats of Watco (walnut piece right under was finished the same way)
Eventually, clear top will be replaced with aluminium or copper plate.
This box project started out as experimental research for cheap and quick kit assembly. To be honest, it was (is) a lot of fun and it looks somewhat decent too.
Best of all:
- $8.99
- compact
- tube rollable
......those light maple knobs, DODD logo and maple finished remote will be just
icing on the cake! :drool:
:wink:
-
Nice work Mariusz! :thumb: What size are the knobs yuo needing?
Gary
-
Gary
received caps & pin header.
Back in bussines.
and some pics:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29691)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29692)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29693)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29694)
:wink:
:notworthy: :drums: :beer: :bounce:
That about sums up what I feel about the above build.
Anand.
-
I'll be makin some maple knobs this weekend :drool:
Gary
-
I'll be makin some maple knobs this weekend :drool:
Gary
Sounds great Gary.
Any chance of DODD logo :wink:
(to save on shipping :lol:)
Mariusz :wink:
-
Gary
Change of plans(hope it's not too late)
The size of knobs I gave you in my previous post will overpower the front and may block remote's reciver.
If possible, the correct size will be:
2 knobs - 1.5" in diameter and 1" thick
1 knob - 1" in diameter and 1" thick
Sorry for miscalculating it.
Now, with the unit in hand the picture is clear.
Original size just wouldn't work very well.
Mariusz
-
Mariusz
Just talk to Gary, he's making your knobs but .... , He going to make the new one as your requested.
:thumb:
-
Mariusz
Just talk to Gary, he's making your knobs but .... , He going to make the new one as your requested.
:thumb:
If Gary made the ones in original size already, no problem Ill take them as well. Those might not be suited for this enclosure but I do have at least two other DIY components which need some makeover. :wink:
Mariusz
-
FYI for those that haven't purchased a C-Tek charger yet.
Amazon (no affiliation, yada yada) has the US 800 for sale for 33.50 with free delivery.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29734)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QUT8IC/ref=pe_68490_15229660_pe_epc_d8 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QUT8IC/ref=pe_68490_15229660_pe_epc_d8)
Sweet.
David
-
Quick question, what's the size of mounting hole of the Alps Pot?
-
Quick question, what's the size of mounting hole of the Alps Pot?
I think it's 3/8".
-
5/16" if you are not using the shoulder washers. 7/16" if you use the shoulder washers. Mounting hole for volume pot.
gary
-
Gary,
Can you tell us how the various tube generally sound with your buffer? I know each persons system will be different but a little direction for us new to tubes can be of some help.
Robert
-
Robert as you said all systems are different! I will try and describe the tubes that I prefer in my system. Somewhere in this thread there is a list of tubes that were tried with the buffer, all of the tubes listed will work with it, but I can't say how they sound as I don't know I just tried them to see if they would work. I'll leave trying them to you guys. Never know there may be a great tube there somewhere. I have used 3 different tubes in my system. I used a Tele 12AX7 smooth plate, RCA clear top 6FQ7 and a JJ E88CC. My system consists of a pair of Danny's V-1's, Squeezbox Duet, a modded Wolfson DAC (HAL) my buffer and most of the time a battery amp. Note everything is on battery except the sub amps, and they are powered thru a PI Audio Sub-Buss. Sometimes I listen to vinyl thru my battery phono stage.
My TT rig is a Sumiko Project with the carbon fiber arm and a Blackbird Cart.
I'll start with the Tele 12AX7, this tube has a very smooth sound to it with a nice extended top end. The bass is good but not a tight as I would like it to be. The midrange is so smooth and natural sounding, but it's not really exciting to me to listen too, it may be due to the very hi output impedance of over 500 ohms.
The RCA clear top solved all the bottem end problems with a fast really tight bass with exceptional extension in the bottom octaves! The draw back was everything else was laid back sounding and not nearly as smooth as the ax7. I would say this tube would be good for loud rock and roll but definately not for criticle listening!
My favorite and MOST musical tube is the JJ ECC88, who'd of thought that!This tube has everything of the other 2 tubes, but it is very very musical in my system period! It works well with all types of music and you never get tired of listening to the system. Extremely hi resolution and killer bottem end!
I am pretty sure that there are many tubes that are currenlty not being used for audio that will work in this buffer and some of those may be real sleepers that no one knows about! I will count on you guys for finding those treasures and let everyone know, cause I sure don't have the time to do it myself.
Hope this helps.
Gary
-
All right, so everything is almost ready for assembly in the Dodd Chassis (when it gets here :))
So how exactly should I be using the zip ties? I didn't see that in the instructions anywhere.
Also, any chance of showing some nice shots of exactly how everything looks in your chassis Gary, especially how they are mounted and wired?
-
Praedet :thumb:
You can use the zip ties anyway you want :wink:
One here:
(http://doddaudio.com/images/PROTOB10.JPG)
and more here: http://doddaudio.com/DIYINSTRUCTION.aspx
Hope that help.
-
preadet I'll try in the next few days getting some pics of an assembled unit in the real chassis for you guys that have puchased the chassis and would like to see how it goes. :thumb:
-
Mariusz here are some knobs for you
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29837)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29838)
:drool: :drool:
Oh yea, would this be up to everyones standards for a logo on a kit???? :drool:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=29839)
It is 1.5" by 3" gloss black on brass and it has good double sticky tape already on it! :thumb: Just peel and stick!
Gary
-
Oh my!!!! Those look tasty !!! :drool:
Love the logo as well. Just about punching out (11:53pm) from work..... been a little busy ....... building DODD buffer. :wink:
Not sure if it will light up or blow up but I'll certainly test it tomorrow.
Thank You Gary
Mariusz :thumb:
P.S
PM send
-
Mariusz
Is your Dodd Buffer singing yet?
-
Mariusz
Is your Dodd Buffer singing yet?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
-
Not yet. :(
Made a booboo I quest :scratch:
Have to go over the wiring. :duh:
Had a little problem visualizing conections between board, swtches and power buss. Problem might lay in power wireing and ground but can not say for sure.
I did pick up my new custom preamp to match my 300b monos and it probably deserves the place in my personal top preamp section. Ones I get the issues resolved with the buffer I might try to compare these two preamps.
:wink:
-
Hope you get the "hick-up" work out.
:eyebrows:
-
Not yet. :(
Made a booboo I quest :scratch:
Have to go over the wiring. :duh:
Had a little problem visualizing conections between board, swtches and power buss. Problem might lay in power wireing and ground but can not say for sure.
I did pick up my new custom preamp to match my 300b monos and it probably deserves the place in my personal top preamp section. Ones I get the issues resolved with the buffer I might try to compare these two preamps.
:wink:
Mariusz,
Did you get all 6 black wires back to the "Main Ground Buss". I only ask because in the early instructions that was not as clear as the instructions Gary has on-line now.
Best,
Ed
-
Mariusz,
Did you get all 6 black wires back to the "Main Ground Buss". I only ask because in the early instructions that was not as clear as the instructions Gary has on-line now.
Best,
Ed
yes, all 6 on main ground buss.
As I write this , I by passed the Neutric conection and it seems to be alive.
Must be something wrong with conntacts.
One more Q which position is for 6V and which one for 12V?
-
yes, all 6 on main ground buss.
As I write this , I by passed the Neutric conection and it seems to be alive.
Must be something wrong with conntacts.
One more Q which position is for 6V and which one for 12V?
Make sure you twist the Neutric PowerCon connector to the right after it's in. That makes the contact to the terminals.
-
Make sure you twist the Neutric PowerCon connector to the right after it's in. That makes the contact to the terminals.
it makes sense - I did not do it ..... rushed it I guess.
PS
looks like left is 6V. Is that right?
-
I'll test it later today. It would be awesome if I could compare it to my other preamp. Besides, I found close to 12 different tubes which should work, according to the long list of tubes mentioned earlier.
Thanks guys
-
it makes sense - I did not do it ..... rushed it I guess.
PS
looks like left is 6V. Is that right?
6V is when the toggle is pointing the same direction as the jumpered pin of the switch and regulator (the orange wire runs to the pin of the regulator and the switch, opposite the single connection between the switch and regulator). I hope that makes sense.
Best,
Ed
-
There is a picture of the switch and the direction of it on the instruction pages on the DIY pages. 6 volts is to the left.
Gary
-
Still no sound
- can hear fainted sound
- remote doesn't work
- voltage switch gets pretty worm
-
Still no sound
- can hear fainted sound
- remote doesn't work
- voltage switch gets pretty worm
Make sure ribbon cable is properly seated. Remove and replace.
-
Make sure ribbon cable is properly seated. Remove and replace.
Thanks
did like you said but still no sound
volume pot doesn't responds to remote
is it normal for toggle switch to get this warm?
Any ideas? :scratch:
-
The toggle switch will get quite warm when in the 6V position, it is actually the regulator getting hot, I am assuming you mounted the switch and the regulator together.
Best,
Ed
-
The toggle switch will get quite warm when in the 6V position, it is actually the regulator getting hot, I am assuming you mounted the switch and the regulator together.
Best,
Ed
yes, just like in on line instructions.
yes, it is in 6V position - with stock tube
if time permits, Ill take the guts out and take few pics.
-
The switch gets hot from the heat transfer from the regulator. It's not a problem. :nono:
Not only make sure the ribbon cable is plugged in correctly at both ends, also make sure that the brown wire is on top at both ends.
Are you hearing any relay clicks when you power it up? Is the tube lighting up?
Gary
-
The switch gets hot from the heat transfer from the regulator. It's not a problem. :nono:
Not only make sure the ribbon cable is plugged in correctly at both ends, also make sure that the brown wire is on top at both ends.
Are you hearing any relay clicks when you power it up? Is the tube lighting up?
Gary
tube is lighting up and I can hear the relay clicks when switched from off to mute.
Last, brown wire on the ribbon is facing "R out" and facing orange+2 white wires on the input selector board.
-
Mariusz I don't understand the last sentence. Look closely at the pictures of the plastic sample and make sure the ribbon cable is plugged in that way. Ok, so the tube is lighting up and you do hear a relay click on power up. Do you hear another relay click about 10-15 seconds after power up? That would be the mute relay, if it doesn't click it will not make music! Also you say the remote is not working? I tested the hand held part before I sent it to you so we know it works. You got power and ground to the remote board right? Maybe some good pics will help when you have the time.
gary
-
No 2nd click
Clicks only when powering down.
I better take some pics and hopefully that will help.
-
Slightly different subject (although I wish Mariusz the best of luck in getting his buffer to work).
Is there any problem experimenting with different stepped attenuators in place of the 100K Alps pot as long as the attentuator is stereo, the same value (100K), and of course wired correctly?
OK, back to the troubleshooting ...
David
-
Dmatt
You should not have any problem with stepped attenuators with the same 100K value.
But the Alps come with the kits is very good pot anyway.
Just my .01 cent
-
Thanks Trung.
Yes, I figured the parts Gary supplied are top notch (I've used Sonicaps in crossover builds).
But this is the first time I've had something I could swap parts in and out of and "listen". My guess is that I will only make things worse, but that's the fun of it.
I am also toying with the idea of making a battery-powered eight channel buffer to sit between my Oppo BDP-83SE analog outs and my HT amps. Since the Oppo handles all the processing, all I need is a 'volume control' in front of my amps. Imagine four Dodd buffers connected to a DACT CT2 eight channel attenuator (insert maniacal laughter here). I don't know how well the channel matching would be between the four sets of dual channels (I suppose I would need a matched quad of tubes) but it sure is fun to dream big!
David
-
David
humm... .. 8 channels .... all you need .... 4 Dodd buffer :eyebrows:
You may need Gary input on this, but safe for sure 4 Dodd buffer should do the tricks :thumb:
Let us know what's your finding.
Let your ears do the judge. :wink:
-
Update*
I now have a little over 100 hrs on my Dodd DIY Buffer, I am currently running a GE JG5751. It is sounding smooth, clear, dynamic. I am really loving this thing!
Best,
Ed
-
Thanks Trung.
I am also toying with the idea of making a battery-powered eight channel buffer to sit between my Oppo BDP-83SE analog outs and my HT amps. Since the Oppo handles all the processing, all I need is a 'volume control' in front of my amps.
That would be sweet~!
-
ED
:thumb:
What are you running with the Dodd Buffer?
-
It is sounding smooth, clear, dynamic. I am really loving this thing!
Best,
Ed
Glad to hear that you are experiencing the same thing I am. I love the little bugger as well! :thumb: :green:
To Gary :notworthy:
-
ED
:thumb:
What are you running with the Dodd Buffer?
I am running the ClassD 120 amp into the GR Research V-1 coaxs, but you know that :wink:. I am also trying out an interconnect some generous soul made for me but I still haven't done any AB comparisons Trung! :lol:
Best,
Ed
-
To Gary :notworthy:
x2 :notworthy: :notworthy:
Best,
Ed
-
Possibly found the source (power/mute board wiring) of trouble - will report back tomorrow.
-
Mariusz - Great, hurry up and make she sing please. :wink:
I having my ClassD amp a make-over to matching with the new Dodd Buffer, if everything working out right,
the ClassD and Dodd Buffer will be at the LoneStarAudioFest. :thumb:
Ed - "World Best Cable" ? :wink: (for money) :lol:
-
Ed - "World Best Cable" ? :wink: (for money) :lol:
Absolutely! :thumb:
Best,
Ed
-
OK - wifey's friend is over for chic chat ...... I'll fire up the iron and report in a few.
-
Nope, worst then before.
I need a break.
-
Mariusz
Please take few pictures, we will work it out.
:scratch:
-
Mariusz
Please take few pictures, we will work it out.
:scratch:
Yes, take a few pics, we'll get you up and running.
Best,
Ed
-
OK - wifey's friend is over for chic chat ...... I'll fire up the iron and report in a few.
As wifey's friend...maybe she knows. They know everything... :)
-
Took some pictures but I am having a hard time uploading them to AC since I am away from my personal PC and forced to rely on my iPhone.
I will give it a shot. If it won't work..... might be able to drew a quick diagram.
:(
-
Mariusz
Email me if you needed
trunganhtran ahotmail
I may upload it for you.
-
Thanks! :thumb:
Will do....(as soon as I lower my sails :wink:)
-
I am patiently waiting pics to get your kit running.
gary
-
Uploaded some pictures into my GALLERY (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=3364).
Maybe someone can do a simple connection guide using actual parts from the kit?
Not exactly like the example below but similar.(with added wiring etc)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30114)
:scratch:
-
Mariusz,
Where is the black wire on the power/mute board going? I have 4 orange in that row, no black. It should be going to the +5V on the remote control reciever board which it may because I see that is black as well.
Nevermind, I found it in one of the pics, looks correct.
-
I see 3 problems. Mariusz it may be easier if you gave me a call. 972-276-6865
I'll have thatthing goin in no time! :green:
gary
-
My chassis should be here monday or tuesday, I'm so excited, I hope to have mine up and running in very short order. Also I made a purchase of a Hakko 936 soldering station, talk about nice, that is compared to my old radio shack iron. This kit is the first project for the new soldering station and it really was nice.
-
Back in post #354 praedet asked for some pics of a finished unit as I would build it. Here is that pic, if you want to see all of them they will be on the DIY page shortly. :thumb:
Gary
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30140)
-
http://doddaudio.com/Chassislayout.aspx
:thumb:
Hakko 936 is very nice station, Steve, you will be happy with it and may have to order more kits to build
:wink:
-
WoW
I may have to order some spare knobs :eyebrows:
(http://doddaudio.com/images/SI850824.JPG)
and more knobs here: http://doddaudio.com/Woodenknobs.aspx
-
Gary, thanks for the chassis pics, that will be a big help.
-
Thanks for the pics Gary! :thumb:
2 Questions
1) How do I get the volume, selector, and power/mute boards/pot to sit flush/flat when I tighten them on? Should I trim the "nub" on the back of each one?
2) Also, what voltage is the stock tube?
Thanks!
-
Praedet
(http://doddaudio.com/images/SELECTSWITCH03.JPG)
I trim off the "nub" but maybe better way.
The stock tube is 6 v, 6N1P tube
-
Praedet
(http://doddaudio.com/images/SELECTSWITCH03.JPG)
I trim off the "nub" but maybe better way.
The stock tube is 6 v, 6N1P tube
Praedet,
That nub is there to keep the pot from spinning when you turn it. I simply drill a second (smaller) hole for the nub to sit in, it will then sit flush and not turn when using it, even if the nut were to get a little loose.
Best,
Ed
-
I thought I should do a hole, but I got the case from Gary, so I thought it would already be there if that is what he does...
Hmm...
I'll shoot him an e-mail ;)
-
Gary said to just trim them off if you are using his case ;)
-
I just started building the remote receiver board and I don't find the wire jumper in the kit. Is this just plain wire? Looks like you have to install it without plugging the holes so that the components can still be added.
Is there anyone who has done this that can offer guidance?
Doug
-
I just started building the remote receiver board and I don't find the wire jumper in the kit. Is this just plain wire? Looks like you have to install it without plugging the holes so that the components can still be added.
Is there anyone who has done this that can offer guidance?
Doug
You can use a lead you have trimmed off of one of the components.
Best,
Ed
-
Thanks Ed. That is correct :thumb: Install the jumper last that way you don't have to worry about getting solder in the holes before the component goes in.
gary
-
Cool! Thanks for the help, guys. This whole build is like a team project.
Doug
-
My chassis, face plate and chrome knobs should be here today at lunch time. Looks like a fun filled afternoon.
-
:eyebrows: Chassis, faceplate, and chrome knobs are here !!!!!
I have owned many high end pieces of gear over the years and I have never seen one with this level of detail. The screws that hold the top on the chassis have plastic washers so the screws don't scratch the surfaces when they are tightened. Why does no one else do this? :duh:
-
I did not get my buffer finished today but I will have it playing by tomorrow evening. Here are a few pics of my progress, sorry for the poor quality of these pics, cell phone.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30304)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30305)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30306)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30307)
-
I did not get my buffer finished today but I will have it playing by tomorrow evening. Here are a few pics of my progress, sorry for the poor quality of these pics, cell phone.
Looking good! Soon you will be singing the the praises of the Dodd Buffer, I know I am!
Best,
Ed
-
Looking good.
Hope to hear your impressions SOON.
:thumb:
-
Looking good.
:thumb:
The knobs go in before the face plate. :wink: :duh:
-
I am sure it was placed only for the photo shoot.
Rotating switches aren't even trimed yet.
But who am I to point fingers..... I got my problems which gave me nightmares. :duh:
But Gary will surely bring me back on the ground ones he finds my screwups. :oops: :oops:
Mariusz :thumb:
-
Mariusz
You can pointing at me if you like. :wink:
We live .. we learn :thumb:
I let out too much smoke on my DIY T-amp once :duh: :bawl: and until this day, I have not fig. out what I did wrong :scratch: YET
-
You can pointing at me if you like
Not a CHANCE. :thumb:
:wink:
-
Ok, just joined the crowd and ordered the DIY Buffer from Gary. It will match my Battery PA Purpleheart faceplate! WOOHOO! :)
-
Man I really want to hear one of these w/ my ClassDaudio amp,
compare to my SWL 9.0SE, anyone near MD, PA, DC? :eyebrows:
-
Man I really want to hear one of these w/ my ClassDaudio amp,
compare to my SWL 9.0SE, anyone near MD, PA, DC? :eyebrows:
YGPM
-
It's finished and it works perfectly, I'm so pumped. :D
I took some better pics for your viewing pleasure.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30326)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30327)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30328)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30329)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=30330)
The little hole in the front is for the infrared receiver, which I didn't get yet so I may install a LED in that hole to indicate it's on so I won't leave it on by mistake and run my battery dead.
Also the wiring going to and from the volume pot is a little long and will be cut to proper length when I upgrade to the remote volume.
This was a really easy kit, or at least I felt it was, just closely follow the pics Gary has provided and everything should turn out good.
Next up a case for the battery and charger with a matching maple front. Oh Gary, I need some more wood.
-
Looks great!
You need some bypass caps man.
-
Nice job, very neat!
x2 on the bypass caps :thumb:.
Best,
Ed
-
I know I've said it before but if you have $40 for the bypass caps DO IT. Don't even think twice. The difference is well worth it. I'm just sayin'...
-
Really nice work Steve! :thumb: :thumb: And it worked the first time! Now be sure and let us know wht you think of it.
Gary
-
I was able to listen to the system some this evening, further listening will be required next week. First a break down on my system. Digital on Drobo played via iTunes on MacBook, USB to Music Streamer II 24/96 DAC, active crossover, solid state amps, Linkwitz Orion speakers tri-amped.
Now my only reason for wanting the Dodd buffer was to add switching so I could listen to other sources such as my turntable. I believe the traditional thought process would be to think the buffer could only detract from the sound since there is now more circuitry in the signal path. Perhaps it could be a plus because it offers a better impedance match between my DAC and active crossover, taking a strain off of both units.
After listening to several songs this evening I can say the buffer does not detract from the sound in any way. In some ways I feel my second example is closer to the truth. Some recordings seemed to flow better with the buffer in the path.
I have heard equipment that is at it's best with certain types of music and not so hot with others, the Dodd buffer is neutral in that it has no musical preference. Everything from Opera to Nickleback sounded equally good.
Next will be a few more hours on the unit and a little tube rolling to see what I can bring out of it.
-
Steve, For $40 you can help it a bunch! :thumb: Platinums are the ticket! :drool:
gary
-
What value Sonicap Platinums are everyone using for the bypass on the output caps? I already have a pair of 0.1uF/400VDC Platinums from another project that I can use.
-
What value Sonicap Platinums are everyone using for the bypass on the output caps? I already have a pair of 0.1uF/400VDC Platinums from another project that I can use.
Gary is shipping .01uF.
Best,
Ed
-
Steve, For $40 you can help it a bunch! :thumb: Platinums are the ticket! :drool:
gary
Isn't that what I've been saying? :duh:
-
What value Sonicap Platinums are everyone using for the bypass on the output caps? I already have a pair of 0.1uF/400VDC Platinums from another project that I can use.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=27324)
-
YGPM
HAL - if you're demoing...........................
-
Once I have one of Gary's Battery Buffers built, will see about having a small GTG. My room does not have much room for seating. It will be running the Super-V's with Gary's Battery PA. :)
-
Another fun thing with the battery buffer will be the tube trials.
Have the stock 6N1P coming with the kit, a Valvo 7308, Siemens CCa, a JJ E88CC and Dario Miniwatt 7308 to listen to. Much easier when you are only using one tube!
The two 12VDC/75AH AGM batteries are charged and ready to rock (one for the preamp and one for the PA is overkill, but I already have them). Just need the buffer kit! :drool:
Will get the Sonicap Platinum 0.01uF/400VDC bypass caps as well. Doing the mod while it is being built will be easier.
-
Will get the Sonicap Platinum 0.01uF/400VDC bypass caps as well.
smart man! :thumb:
-
I picked up my kit at the LSAF this weekend. :dance: As soon as I get a new computer built (mine died by lightning while in Dallas :evil:) , I'll post pics of the build.
Scott
-
I picked up my kit at the LSAF this weekend. :dance: As soon as I get a new computer built (mine died by lightning while in Dallas :evil:) , I'll post pics of the build.
Scott
You're going to love it. I promise! :thumb:
Now you need to mosy on over to the sweet deals section and get yourself a Zero Surge protector for that new confuzer. :thumb:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=80997.0
-
I bought one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MT8S7E/ref=oss_product (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MT8S7E/ref=oss_product)
for my battery. It flashes a green light when charged and yellow when down to 12.6V and red when down to ........ well I don't know yet but I will find out. Yes I know you can just leave the charger going all the time but I have this thing about unhooking it while listening, I'm just strange like that.
-
I picked up my kit at the LSAF this weekend. :dance: As soon as I get a new computer built (mine died by lightning while in Dallas :evil:) , I'll post pics of the build.
Scott
Scott,
Gary told me he had a kit for me at LSAF.
This was me when I did not come: :cry:
Oh well. The purpleheart faceplate and remote should match the PA nicely :thumb:
-
HAL - if you're demoing...........................
Hey ET,
I already have set up a GTG w/ HAL, I see you live in
PA. I live south of Gettysburg, maybe we could carpool?
Let me know
JT
-
Hey ET,
I already have set up a GTG w/ HAL, I see you live in
PA. I live south of Gettysburg, maybe we could carpool?
Let me know
JT
Well since you had results, anyone here in Austin pickup a buffer? :eyebrows:
-
Sounds like a plan - I'm in Oxford, Southern Chester County, 15 mins from the last rt95 ramp in MD going north.
Hey ET,
I already have set up a GTG w/ HAL, I see you live in
PA. I live south of Gettysburg, maybe we could carpool?
Let me know
JT
-
Hey anybody else finish their kits yet? Let us hear from you! :eyebrows:
Gary
-
I've started mine, but I am going to wait on photos until I get my computer back from the shop- this %#@*&% ancient laptop freezes about every third line! But so far, so good.
btw, Gary you have a PM.
-
The kit should be on the way! Got all the batteries charged and waiting.
I just wish it were here! I need to smell some solder rosin! :)
-
Thanks to Gary for his assistance with trouble shooting my kit.
Kit should arrive shortly from check up.
Apparently the problem was with 6V/12V power-toggle switch.
While looking at some wood stock leftovers, I found this cute piece of mineral stained poplar and made some quick enclosures for pre-section & battery power supply. To finish it off, I have cut and pre-drill 1/4" aluminium plate which will be used for top cover.
Gary's maple knobs arrived in perfect condition. A real eye candy.
I have modified them a bit by inserting oversized, darker inlays for contrast and pure fun factor.
Hopefully soon, I'll be able to share my initial impressions of Dodd Audio kit.
Till then......
Mariusz
-
Like Jason Said:
"You're going to love it. I promise!"
:thumb:
:eyebrows:
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=27324)
Thanks for the picture!
-
All right Gary, I finished it last night after my mishap :oops:
Here are the pics of the build and finished product. I also made some DIY silver cables.
For now it is hooked up w/ a modded SACD player, through an Outlaw 7700 to some Ninja modded Polk LSi9s.
It will be in a 2-channel DIY set-up soon.
It sounds amazing. The biggest change was the 3-dimensionality the soundstage now possesses. And that is with 20 minutes of burn-in ;)
I know my wiring is messy, but this is my first build, so give me a break :duh:
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/P5020004.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/P5030024.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/P5030027.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/P5020010.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/P5020008.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/P5240003.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/P5240001.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/P5240001.jpg)
-
Sorry for the HUGE pictures!
-
Praedet
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Looking good and it sound good.
-
That looks good to me! :thumb:
-
Gary-
Anymore thought into a tube amp kit? :D
-
Praedet -
That looks nice.
Did you get the plans for building the diy cables online?
As for photos, next time open each one in paint first, resize to 50%, and save as a .jpg. Then upload the resized photo, it will still look good, but not be huge.
-
Praedet -
That looks nice.
Did you get the plans for building the diy cables online?
As for photos, next time open each one in paint first, resize to 50%, and save as a .jpg. Then upload the resized photo, it will still look good, but not be huge.
I did get the cable plans online. They are the VH Audio Silver DIY Interconnects.
I should have done a resize, I am just used to the forum software automatically handling it like it does at the other forum I frequently use :(
-
Jason, I'm thinkin, I'm thinkin! :scratch: I want something in the 50 watt range on battery? :drool: :drool:
Gary
-
Jason, I'm thinkin, I'm thinkin! :scratch: I want something in the 50 watt range on battery? :drool: :drool:
Gary
Just make sure they can drive my speakers. :D Yes on the :drool:
I'll give you until RMAF. :lol:
-
Gary this is a little OT, but what do you think of the ClassD amp/boards? It seems like people were talking about you having an amp at the Dallas show.
-
Personally I think they kick butt for what you pay and the performance is way beyond that! :thumb: I do believe that I will be selling a few of them for battery operation.
Gary
-
Jason, I'm thinkin, I'm thinkin! :scratch: I want something in the 50 watt range on battery? :drool: :drool:
Gary
That would be killer :green:
-
That would be killer :green:
Yes it will!!! Maybe if enough of us show interest, Gary will put it in top gear. :green:
-
Got my buffer up and running this weekend and I'm very happy with it already using the stock tube. Thanks Gary for making this kit available and to everyone who contributed on this thread. It replaced a Transcendent Sound GGP in my setup. Right away I noticed more body and better bass. Got some other tubes I'll try eventuallty. Right now I just want to kick back and enjoy it.
Doug
-
Doug :thumb:
I using JJ 6DJ8 and very please with it.
Please post few pictures. :wink:
-
Doug :thumb:
I using JJ 6DJ8 and very please with it.
Please post few pictures. :wink:
Sorry, I didn't take any pictures during the build. Probably not much new to show anyway. I bought Gary's case, faceplate, and chrome knobs so the finished product looks just like the ones on doddaudio.com. My internal wiring is a little messy but no one can see that. That's something I continue to struggle with. Also, in spite of trying to follow the instructions carefully I installed one transistor on the remote transmitter and one IC on the remote receiver backwards. After correcting those two errors it worked perfectly.
I'm interested in building a tube amp if Gary decides to offer a kit.
-
I have been taking a few pictures along the way. The kit is wired, but stupidly, I didn't have a case in mind when I wired it, so I have excess wire length that I will have to go back and shorten. In the meantime, this is where this project is currently.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31294)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31295)
Just follow Gary's pictures and go slow.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31296)
I had to fix a screw up here. I had soldered the pins backwards :duh:, twice! :duh: :duh:, and broke them getting them out the second time. Super glue to the rescue.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31298)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31297)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31299)
The mesquite panels, including wormholes, are from my front pasture and cut out on a band saw.
-
I'd like to hear more impressions from you guys that built these. Perhaps someone would write up a review for A$$A.
-
I'd like to hear more impressions from you guys that built these. Perhaps someone would write up a review for A$$A.
You might find this thread interesting http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=75028.0 We were the first ones to experience sonic bliss. :D
-
Have my buffer running at this point!
USPS took out a corner of the front panel in shipping :( Gary is making a new one.
Once it arrives will take pictures of the purpleheart duo! :)
-
As soon as I finished my V-1s I wanted to get my Dodd Buffer case finished. It is now complete. After I built the ClassD amp case Trung mentioned I should try a wood burner instead of just carving out the letters of the faceplate as I did with the ClassD unit, he was right! It's not perfect but I like the "branded" look. Of course by the time I bought the wood burner and some lettering stamps (for the small letters) I could have nearly paid to have it laser engraved here locally :lol:.
Here are a few pics!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31444)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31450)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31446)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31447)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31448)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=31449)
The buffer is sounding GREAT! I want to try some other tubes in it but the 12 volt tube I am running now will run on a 5ah battery for at least 13 hours!
If you are on the fence about building a buffer JUST DO IT! :thumb: You won't regret it.
Best,
Ed
-
Ed
Looking good :thumb:
:wink:
You should not listen to me anyway
:wink:
-
Ed, that looks fantastic. :thumb:
-
Ed
Looking good :thumb:
:wink:
You should not listen to me anyway
:wink:
Ed, that looks fantastic. :thumb:
Thanks guys, I am happy to have it properly housed, of course it's been sounding great for the last 400 hours! :D
Trung, the woodburner worked out pretty well, IMO anyway. It took me back to the time when I was a cub scout, I didn't know I could remember that far back :lol:.
Best,
Ed
-
Put a Dario Miniwatt E188CC (7308) in mine last night. It sounds really good!
Now to let the whole thing burn-in for awhile to see how it goes. :)
-
Anyone know of a good square/rectangular back-lit analog voltage gauge? I am thinking of making an enclosure for my battery and thought that would be really cool to mount on the front... ;)
-
You can search Digikey.
I got a few hits.
http://parts.digikey.co.uk/1/3/voltmeter-gauge
:wink:
Great ideal though.
-
I'm looking for Something like this, but I guess I want 10V to 14v or so...
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=180-1057-ND
Thanks for the help!
-
I'm looking for Something like this, but I guess I want 10V to 14v or so...
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=180-1057-ND
Thanks for the help!
Here ya go >>>>>>>
http://www.meterwarehouse.com/productview.asp?product=17671+ME
Dave
-
Cool thanks!
Between that one, and these, which would look best set in a wooden face plate to match the DODD buffer?
1) http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=50105&familyName=Teleflex+Sahara+Series+Gauges#
2) http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11980&familyName=Blue+Sea+Systems+DC+Analog+Voltmeter
3) http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11063&familyName=Teleflex+Heavy+Duty+Series+Gauges
4) http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13048&familyName=Faria+Chesapeake+Series+Gauges
-
Nr.4 for my taste.
-
I'm with Mariusz #4 , simple
:thumb:
-
4) http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13048&familyName=Faria+Chesapeake+Series+Gauges
Hands down, the coolest :D
Dave
-
Mariusz,
Should I start my own thread about this here in Cheep and Cheerful? It will be supporting the DODD DIY Buffer, but I don't want to hijack this thread, and I have more questions...
-
Whatever you thing is more appropriate.
Either way it is fine by me.
:thumb:
-
Thanks, went ahead and started a new one 8)
-
If it goes as well as I think it will, then I will release an amplifier kit of some sort as the second kit. I have already started work on it hoping the first kit goes well! :green:
gary
Not that I'm in a position to take it on now but am VERY curious to know if you have gotten anywhere with it. If so, I NEED to start planning...
-
I've also revived this thread http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=74866.msg798487;topicseen#new which is about Dodd Pre / Buffer tubes.
Please add what you tried and settled on as it's a great resource. :thumb:
-
Not that I'm in a position to take it on now but am VERY curious to know if you have gotten anywhere with it. If so, I NEED to start planning...
You must be very busy... seems like it, anyway. :) Hope all is well with you.
+1 on the tube amp kit. I'm always interested, especially now that the kitchen remodel is just about done.
Dave
-
The replacement Purpleheart faceplate has arrived! WOOHOO! :)
Will get it installed and try the new JJ E88CC arrived at the same time!
A fun weekend ahead!
-
The faceplate is installed and the new JJ E88CC is as well.
Time for some burn-in and comparison to the Dario E188CC.
The first JJ E88CC I tried did not sound very good. Think that tube is going bad. I bought it used awhile ago.
Have a Herbie's Ultrasonic Rx tube damper coming to try. That should be interesting. :)
-
Alright Hal, you know the drill, we need PICS!! :thumb:
Best,
Ed
-
Ed,
I have to take the faceplate off, cut the control shafts and put the knobs on. Did not figure this out until I had the faceplate on. :duh:
Promise once I have that done will take pics of the unit.
Right now, having to much fun just listening to it! :thumb:
-
Has anyone tried the Herbie's Audio Lab Ultrasonics Rx9 tube dampers in the buffer? It will fit on the 6N1P and 6DJ8 family tubes.
-
Has anyone tried the Herbie's Audio Lab Ultrasonics Rx9 tube dampers in the buffer? It will fit on the 6N1P and 6DJ8 family tubes.
On my buffer.... :D
-
Any observations on sound quality?
-
Any observations on sound quality?
Yes, purchase a pair and try them for yourself. If you don't like them, return them.
Mine are still on and not going anywhere.
-
I only need one for the buffer. :thumb:
-
I only need one for the buffer. :thumb:
:duh: You got a new one. I have the first version which has two tubes.
-
:duh: You got a new one. I have the first version which has two tubes.
So, you like 'em, eh? I think I'll have to buy some and give them a shot. If they're good enough for you, I'm sure they'll work for me.
Dave
-
Dave,
I have the older version Ultrasonics in my battery preamp on the 7308's and they sound really good to me. Had not heard the newer Ultrasonic Rx version.
-
Dave,
I have the older version Ultrasonics in my battery preamp on the 7308's and they sound really good to me. Had not heard the newer Ultrasonic Rx version.
I've been eying them for a while, but didn't know anyone that had actually tried them. Now I know two. Cool. I'll order some today.
Thanks, guys.
Dave
-
Does the gauge of the cable to and from the battery for the buffer matter?
-
Does the gauge of the cable to and from the battery for the buffer matter?
It will matter due to voltage drop but Gary includes a length of red/black zip cord (14 awg?) in with the kit for this.
Best,
Ed
-
I've already built mine with what Gary supplied. I am making some changes to how I connect to the battery, so I was trying to figure out if a larger gauge would be worthwhile or necessary...
Ted
-
The Neutrik Powercon connector will have a wire gauge limit for the screw down connections. The small current draw of the buffer will not be a big issue for the 16awg cable supplied in the kit. If it has to be really long (25'+), then using a larger cable will lower the voltage drop on the wire.
-
Based on the chart I use ,with the 1/2 amp max draw of the buffer,the 14 gauge wire would loss about .5% voltage over 25 ft.
-
What if I am running an amp off the battery, how do I figure out the gauge for that?
-
What is max draw of amp and distance from batt also what % of loss do you want to have?
-
I'm looking the Class D amp that is 250 W into 4 ohms, and the Battery will be less than 3ft away...
-
Ok, put the Miniwatt 7308 back in the buffer with an Ultrasonic Rx9 damper. Sounds very good to me. Not a huge difference, but things do sound a bit cleaner overall.
I like it! :)
-
According To Gary the 14 gauge wire should be more than big enough for the 3 ft run. He said that his amp only draws 15-20 amp so with 14 gauge you would have only 2% loss during max draw. I am using 10 gauge to keep my loss to 1% or less.
-
^^^THanks a lot!!!
Any idea if the Neutrik Powercon connector will accept 10 gauge if I don't use the back piece that screws on?
What about the component side that screws to the backplate, can I use 10 or 8 gauge to that? Where do I find high quality 8 and 10 gauge wire?
-
Please keep it on topic.
Thank You
Mariusz :wink:
-
The Neutrik will accept 10 gauge and you can use all the parts.Probably won't matter on amp side connection but you can use up to 8 guage. All this is based on dodd class-d amp with 12 volt battery, and separate wire to tube buffer and as buffer only draw 1/2 amp max according to Gary the 14 gauge should be more than big enough.
-
^^^Thank you very much Mike! That's exactly what I needed to know!
-
Dodds site says out of stock, Does anyone kno when theyll be back?
-
Siava
I think about 3 weeks.
But I maybe wrong though. :oops:
-
Hope this is right place to post this. My Dodd buffer with sandstone top and face plate, still need to find knobs.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=35983)
buffer in half finished rack.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=35984)
Gary I will be posting pics of different stone I can make face plates out of and if you see anything you like its yours.
-
any word on when theyll be back in stock?
-
any word on when theyll be back in stock?
Hopefully for your sake, soon! :thumb:
-
Everybody likes to have their RMAF gear pictures & comments posted except one guy :scratch:
So I help myself and borrow a single picture of Dodd Buffer:
(http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z446/sthull/RMAF%202010/IMG_5525.jpg)
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Everybody likes to have their RMAF gear pictures & comments posted except one guy :scratch:
So I help myself and borrow a single picture of Dodd Buffer:
(http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z446/sthull/RMAF%202010/IMG_5525.jpg)
Mariusz, where did you get that picture? It shows the Buffer sitting on top of my buddy Jim's purpleheart feet. I wonder if there is a picture of the MacSandwich?
Thanks,
Dave
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Check your pm box :thumb:
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Check your pm box :thumb:
Got it. Thanks. :D
Dave
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Is that birdseye maple, it's gorgeous!
Everybody likes to have their RMAF gear pictures & comments posted except one guy :scratch:
So I help myself and borrow a single picture of Dodd Buffer:
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I didn't take the picture. I wasn't even at the RMAF show. But yeah, it looks like it.
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Is that birdseye maple, it's gorgeous!
That is quilted maple with a natural oil finish on it. Mine are the same and freakin' gorgeous.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37506)
Mr. Dodd does good work. :thumb:
Dave
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Showed off :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37507)
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Showed off :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=37507)
Trung, that paduk is absolutely awesome!
Dave
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very jealous
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Question guys.
I know this is all hypothetical, but tell me if you think a Dodd Buffer would be good in my situation:
So I've got an Emotiva ERC1 player, and I'll be getting soon the XDA-1 DAC. My plan now is to run ERC-1 and whatever else I get into (PC audio, etc) into the XDA-1 and the XDA-1 directly into the amplifier.
The XDA-1 apparently works really well straight into the amplifier and outputs 12Volt peaks and I think like 2 amps. It's supposed to sound really nice.
However, it has a digital volume control. Now while nobody knows how well theirs is implemented, do you think that by placing a Dodd Buffer between the XDA-1 (just turn it all the way up) and the amp, that I could get... even better sound?
So ERC-1 -> XDA-1 -> classD amp
or ERC-1 -> XDA-1 - > Dodd buffer -> classD amp?
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The XDA-1 apparently works really well straight into the amplifier and outputs 12Volt peaks and I think like 2 amps. It's supposed to sound really nice.
However, it has a digital volume control.
My understanding was that the AD1955 DAC used in the XDA-1 utilizes an on-chip digitally controlled resistive ladder for volume control in the analog domain.
Steve
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Question guys.
I know this is all hypothetical, but tell me if you think a Dodd Buffer would be good in my situation:
So I've got an Emotiva ERC1 player, and I'll be getting soon the XDA-1 DAC. My plan now is to run ERC-1 and whatever else I get into (PC audio, etc) into the XDA-1 and the XDA-1 directly into the amplifier.
The XDA-1 apparently works really well straight into the amplifier and outputs 12Volt peaks and I think like 2 amps. It's supposed to sound really nice.
However, it has a digital volume control. Now while nobody knows how well theirs is implemented, do you think that by placing a Dodd Buffer between the XDA-1 (just turn it all the way up) and the amp, that I could get... even better sound?
So ERC-1 -> XDA-1 -> classD amp
or ERC-1 -> XDA-1 - > Dodd buffer -> classD amp?
Without a doubt, ......a dedicated quality preamp or buffer like Dodd will take SQ a notch or two higher.(99.9% of the time) YMMV
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Question guys.
I know this is all hypothetical, but tell me if you think a Dodd Buffer would be good in my situation:
So I've got an Emotiva ERC1 player, and I'll be getting soon the XDA-1 DAC. My plan now is to run ERC-1 and whatever else I get into (PC audio, etc) into the XDA-1 and the XDA-1 directly into the amplifier.
The XDA-1 apparently works really well straight into the amplifier and outputs 12Volt peaks and I think like 2 amps. It's supposed to sound really nice.
However, it has a digital volume control. Now while nobody knows how well theirs is implemented, do you think that by placing a Dodd Buffer between the XDA-1 (just turn it all the way up) and the amp, that I could get... even better sound?
So ERC-1 -> XDA-1 -> classD amp
or ERC-1 -> XDA-1 - > Dodd buffer -> classD amp?
With the exception of the Buffer, I am just not familiar enough with the other gear to make an educated observation. I will make a general obsevation, though. I don't like digital volume controls. The ones that I have heard just sound wrong somehow. I can't put my finger on it... it could be simply an intellectual prejudice swaying my brain.
I love the way my buffer handles the task.
YMMV
Dave
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Can you please explain to me how placing the Dodd Buffer into that string will not violate the rule of "less circuits are better"?
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Can you please explain to me how placing the Dodd Buffer into that string will not violate the rule of "less circuits are better"?
It is not a rule violation issue for me. It is a choice between attenuation done in the digital domain versus the analog domain. Perhaps it is that I like the sound of "hitting the signal chain" with a tube. What I want from my system is something I want to listen to, not have detail thrown at me. I like the sound of my system through the Buffer.
It is true that less is more and there cannot be much "less" than attenuating a signal through a single triode stage. This is the question: which sounds better in system "X"? That is an opinion, not a formula. I'm a "if it sounds good and I like it, what is the issue?" kind of guy. I am open to anything that makes my system sound better and "better" is a qualification, not a quantification in my world.
Does that answer your question?
Dave
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Could you please describe for me what it "might" be like listening to the DAC into amp with the digital volume control, and then describe what sort of sonic improvements I "might" expect by instead running the DAC into the buffer and then that into the amp? Compare the two situations based on similar past scenarios? What would I notice as being different?
Thanks!
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Could you please describe for me what it "might" be like listening to the DAC into amp with the digital volume control, and then describe what sort of sonic improvements I "might" expect by instead running the DAC into the buffer and then that into the amp? Compare the two situations based on similar past scenarios? What would I notice as being different?
Thanks!
I have tried both, and in my system the Dodd buffer turned it all into music. It layered the sound stage and improved imaging quite a bit. Vocals also appeared more real and more like the singer was really there in front of me verses not even being in the ball park.
Even if I am playing one of the Virtue Audio amps that has it's own value control, I still use the buffer. It takes it to another level.
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I definitely trust your opinion Danny, although I should have come to that position earlier so that I'd be building GR N3's as my first set instead of those Statement Monitors. I almost want to build a Dodd buffer simply to have one in the room as they are highly photogenic.
Even though I technically won't need the buffer at first, I think that once all is up and running and my room treatments are doing what they're supposed to, and I've handled cables and power conditioning, I'll probably look at it all after a few weeks and ask myself, "now what?" That question will probably lead me to go ahead with the buffer.
(and then after that I'll look at gear for hi-rez audio, a dedicated Macmini or NetPC or whatever)
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A quick question on the volume pot. The buffer requires only 1 pot. Does it have "balanced circuit" or something similar in the design?
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The buffer has one stereo volume control, one volume pot per channel.
It is not a balanced design. It uses 1/2 the triode per channel single ended from what I can tell.
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Tried a new Genalex Gold Lion gold pin E88CC in the Buffer and it sounds really good! :thumb:
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Rich
Thank you. :thumb:
Just one more on my list.
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Just thought I would post up a few pictures of the "Power Source" I have built for my DODD Buffer and other battery powered devices. Gary is helping me with the front so it will be done soon!
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/e904d955.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/1e4f3c4c.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/119d7f71.jpg)
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Just thought I would post up a few pictures of the "Power Source" I have built for my DODD Buffer and other battery powered devices. Gary is helping me with the front so it will be done soon!
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/e904d955.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/1e4f3c4c.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/119d7f71.jpg)
VERY nice! I have something similar in mind and as soon as I figure out everything that will be battery powered and my hand heals up I'll be posting some pictures here. I'm sure that Gary's front panel will kick the snot out of what I come up with.
:thumb:
Dave
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Very nice, I love it. :D
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Ted
Look awesome, look much better than my "Junction" box. :thumb:
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Just noticed: "Now taking order" :thumb:
http://doddaudio.com/default.aspx (http://doddaudio.com/default.aspx)
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Hope Gary has more than one.
Should it be "Now Taking Orders"
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Just noticed: "Now taking order" :thumb:
http://doddaudio.com/default.aspx (http://doddaudio.com/default.aspx)
Where has Gary been? I haven't seen him on here in ages. :(
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Anyone notice that the battery powered amp has been discountinued? That is very surprising given its universal praise. I wanted one of those someday!!!
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Anyone notice that the battery powered amp has been discountinued? That is very surprising given its universal praise. I wanted one of those someday!!!
He could make more of them but has to run a lot of them at a time to make it worth doing.
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Anyone notice that the battery powered amp has been discountinued? That is very surprising given its universal praise. I wanted one of those someday!!!
Yeah, bummer! I love mine.
Dave
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It's my fault that Gary's been MIA. He'd been boltin' on buffers to our amps and then helping with a few special orders and repairs.
However, he's back with a vengeance now. Apparently, Gary's lead time on the buffer kits is now under a week and he has the main parts for 50 in his lab.
Starting right now, I'm offering a $100 coupon off anything we make for the first five customers to pickup a new buffer kit from Gary and a free pair of 1m Nirvana interconnects for the next five. Gary will tell me who you are - no need to send a PM.
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Gary told me tonight that if you have trouble building them he'll do it for $50 and to thank me for my offer on the first five, he's going to build the first 5 for free as well. As you know, these kits been out of stock for LONG TIME mainly because his parts supplier sucked and I've been keeping him in the Virtue dungeon.
Now that they're back, we need to help Gary spread the love. He's been playing with a new 6v tube Sovtek which he says is just insane for the money and plays amazing music.
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That's pretty awesome deal :thumb: Having it all build for cost of parts is mighty tempting offer.
I got my buffer up and running after long stretch of misfortunate mini-disasters. With help from fellow member, music is flowing and buffer is burning in. The tube you referring to is on my menu as well. :thumb:
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He's been playing with a new 6v tube Sovtek which he says is just insane for the money and plays amazing music.
Amazing for the money or better than the 6922, 7308....?
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Gary told me tonight that if you have trouble building them he'll do it for $50 and to thank me for my offer on the first five, he's going to build the first 5 for free as well. As you know, these kits been out of stock for LONG TIME mainly because his parts supplier sucked and I've been keeping him in the Virtue dungeon.
Now that they're back, we need to help Gary spread the love. He's been playing with a new 6v tube Sovtek which he says is just insane for the money and plays amazing music.
Sent Gary an email. I hope I am one of the first 5!
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Amazing for the money or better than the 6922, 7308....?
It's probably the 6H30pi. It is a great sounding tube, but draws a TON of heater current. I would think that the regulator would need a big heatsink to be safe.
http://thetubestore.com/6h30types.html
http://thetubestore.com/russian6h30pdr.html
The 6H23 is another tube to try and does not require .9A of heater current
http://thetubestore.com/rus696h.html
I ran the 6H30's in my Cary for years and it was THE best sounding tube in that application.
Dave
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You can also try this one (6H30 Dr) :
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/thetubestore_2131_32225217)
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You can also try this one (6H30 Dr) :
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/thetubestore_2131_32225217)
I have one of the original 2 tube buffers and I'm thinkin' that trying to get 1.8A of heater current from it is probably not a good idea. I reckon I need to talk to Gary.
HEY! GARY!!!
Dave
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I would like to know if I can make my two tube buffer like the current ones. Where it only takes one tube. Gary has mentioned that their is no sonic benefit to having two tubes. Right? So why not? It makes tube rolling much less expensive and draws less current.
Gary!!!
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Sell it and get 2 kits!!! :wink:
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38669)
Little over kill, but ... because I can :lol:
If you want to run 6H30 you must upgrade your heatsink.
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I would like to know if I can make my two tube buffer like the current ones. Where it only takes one tube. Gary has mentioned that their is no sonic benefit to having two tubes. Right? So why not? It makes tube rolling much less expensive and draws less current.
Gary!!!
What he said!!!
Dave
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38669)
Little over kill, but ... because I can :lol:
If you want to run 6H30 you must upgrade your heatsink.
Is that a Harley under there?
:rotflmao:
What is the white sleeve on the tube?
Dave
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Sell it and get 2 kits!!! :wink:
Thanks but no thanks. I'm still selling off my "overflow" equipment room :duh: I don't need to add to it. Trust me!
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For heatsinks I like http://www.heatsinkusa.com/
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Is that a Harley under there?
:rotflmao:
What is the white sleeve on the tube?
Dave
I believe it's called Vacuum Mummification. Easily extends tube life to thousands of years. :lol:
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With the exception of the Buffer, I am just not familiar enough with the other gear to make an educated observation. I will make a general obsevation, though. I don't like digital volume controls. The ones that I have heard just sound wrong somehow. I can't put my finger on it... it could be simply an intellectual prejudice swaying my brain.
I love the way my buffer handles the task.
YMMV
Dave
A digitally controlled resistive ladder is NOT volume controlled in the digital domain. It is an analog signal being controlled by resistors switched in or out of circuit digitally. There are no bits of data "thrown away" and it should not adversely affect sound quality at all. The only thing the buffer could do is "change" the sound by adding some tube flavor.
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Is that a Harley under there?
:rotflmao:
What is the white sleeve on the tube?
Dave
It looks like teflon tape for tube damping.
I have a Herbie's tube damper on my tube and like the effect.
I have a heatsink coming to mod my single tube buffer to use the 6H30Pi. The L7806C regulator should be fine with 0.9 amps as long as you have a BIG heatsink. From my calculation the filament regulator at max voltage input will be dissipating 6.4 watts!
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I believe it's called Vacuum Mummification. Easily extends tube life to thousands of years. :lol:
Actually, if it's teflon or plumber's tape, it will shorten tube life, as it will not get proper heat dissipation.
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Actually, if it's teflon or plumber's tape, it will shorten tube life, as it will not get proper heat dissipation.
Hey Paul
What if say, Teflon tape (plumbers tape) is used only at the bottom or top part of the tube? Would that be acceptable proposal for inexpensive "tube dumpping tweak"???
Question is a bit off topic but interesting nevertheless.
M. :thumb:
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Hey Paul
What if say, Teflon tape (plumbers tape) is used only at the bottom or top part of the tube? Would that be acceptable proposal for inexpensive "tube dumpping tweak"???
Question is a bit off topic but interesting nevertheless.
M. :thumb:
Hi Mariusz,
Well, you would have to wrap the tape many times around the tube in a small area to allow heat dissipation. But why would you want to do that? You can buy cheap tube dampers that will do the same thing. Don't forget, dampers are to help with microphonic tubes, not noisy tubes. Nothing helps with noisy tubes, except once in a while you get lucky if you thoroughly clean the pins. From my long experience, that only works about 5% of the time, and I may be generous with the percentage. :D
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Hi Trung,
Questions:
--What does the teflon tape do for the sonics?
--The big heat sink, what heat is that dissipating? It doesn't look as though it's doing much to help the tube.
--It that a toggle switch next to the bottom corner of the heat sink? What's that do?
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Michael
Teflon tape act just like the tube damper. (I don't have to buy tube damper and I'm cheap :thumb: , I have few feet of Teflon tape here already)
If you worry about heat, just wrap one line, since the tube I using does not put out much heat anyway. How does it sound, try it and find out :wink: , if you don't like it, just take it off. :duh:
Big heatsink is for the 6V voltage regulator, when 6H30 tube is in use, it does draw more amp than stock tube, so more heat, bigger heatsink (may be little over kill on my buffer)
Toggle switch, just switch 12V or 6V , you can use 12V or 6V tube on the buffer.
Hope that help.
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Well, here is my finished power source for the buffer. I think I am going to get a 2nd buffer as I want one with a HT bypass ;)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/113fed5b.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/49e579a3.jpg)
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Well, here is my finished power source for the buffer. I think I am going to get a 2nd buffer as I want one with a HT bypass ;)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/113fed5b.jpg)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/49e579a3.jpg)
AWESOME!!!
Good job. :thumb:
Dave
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Praedet
Awesome.
Here another Dodd buffer build:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38815)
Solidworks for the drawing.
Chassis from here http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6051 (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6051)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38819)
more soon
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Hey Trung
I was going to ask: where did you get that metal case?
And what dimensions is it? (looks close to 8x12x3 ?)
I'll post some pics soon as well. Heat sink, knobs, polyurethane on faceplate should be done this weekend..............ofcause, I wouldn't accomplished a thing without your help and advice. :notworthy: :beer:
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Mariusz
You'r welcome :thumb:
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6051
11.9''(L)x7.5''(W)x2.9''(H)
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Great link Trung.
Found few things which are just perfect for other projects.
Thanks again. :thumb:
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38887)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38888)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38889)
More to come .....
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Trung,
Looks very nice! :thumb:
I think I have an idea of how to get the BIG heatsink in the standard chassis and not move things to much. Will see if I can find some tall stand-offs for the four corner holes! Then is should sit above the big power module and have cooling around the bottom and top.
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Hal
Great ideal, look much nicer than those cable tie. :duh:
May have to "re-mod" my heatsink. :icon_twisted:
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38913)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38914)
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Your teflon tweak inspired me a bit and since it is a slow night at work and not much happening in collage football, here is another idea:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_cxpOm-0ohxo/TOiHPZBAyWI/AAAAAAAAA4Y/2IIww5utnoE/s640/MCFIKqVN6Nxx.jpg)
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"and not much happening in collage football"
Arkansas vs Mississippi State is a good one! :lol:
But braiding teflon tape for tube dampers is diy heroic man!
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Mariusz :bowdown:
:wink:
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"and not much happening in collage football"
Arkansas vs Mississippi State is a good one! :lol:
But braiding teflon tape for tube dampers is diy heroic man!
I was watching ND v.s Army.
Nebraska v.s Texas looks promising tho.
And that's not an act of desperation but boredom. :icon_lol:
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38937)
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Trung's been a busy boy for sure!! I heard that some of you might like to upgrade their 2 tube model to the single tube version with switchable filament voltage.
For $150 plus $10 for shipping you can! The upgrade kit will include both new modules, prewired connectors, and the parts for the filament regulator.
All of the instructions are on the website under diagrams. I have them in stock.
I also want you to know that I have plenty of basic kits in stock for quick shipment. Knobs, faceplates and chassis will have to be ordered.
Gary
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Great to hear from you Gary. I have heard that you were extremely busy with buffers lately. Anyway, thanks for all your help (and Trung) with the buffer. It sings and it is a heavenly sound. Those on the fence who are considering buying Dodd kit - wait a bit longer and you might never see a deal like this. It can end anytime ........ You just do not want to take that chance. :duh:
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39022)
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Cool pics Trung.
Do not forget the heatsink(s) for 6H30 supertube......just in case.... :wink:
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Oh Yea, thanks Mariusz. :scratch:
:D
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39032)
Already forgot about the fuse. :duh:
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39077)
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Trung,
Looking very good! Love the new heatsink! :thumb:
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HAL
Thank you :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39084)
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I look forward to hearing how the 6H30 tube works out.
-
^^^
6H30 sound great on my other Dodd Buffer.
Sovtek 6H30 cheap and does sound good. :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39085)
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39091)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39092)
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39110)
Happy Thanksgiving.
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Very nice, clean work Trung :thumb:
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I agree. Very inspiring work. :thumb:
-
^^^^^
Thank you.
Dodd buffer sounding great. :thumb:
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Trung, that looks great.
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I know I am late to the party but just got my buffer pre-assembled from Gary (used the virtue offer for it) and WOW! This is an insane bargain. I have had it for all of an hour and I can't seem to be able to stop grinning.
Gary added extra heat sinks on mine so I can use the 6h30 tube. Thats next on the shopping list. But in the mean time I am going back to listening!
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I know I am late to the party but just got my buffer pre-assembled from Gary (used the virtue offer for it) and WOW! This is an insane bargain. I have had it for all of an hour and I can't seem to be able to stop grinning.
Gary added extra heat sinks on mine so I can use the 6h30 tube. Thats next on the shopping list. But in the mean time I am going back to listening!
Welcome to the club! :thumb:
-
^^^^
jtwrace +1 :thumb:
Sovtek 6H30 is a good start: cheap and sound good.
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I couldn't stand the peer pressure so I ordered the $150 single tube conversion kit from Dodd. :duh:
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JT
"peer pressure"
Naa ... :icon_twisted:
I'm so glad you ordered the conversion kit.
:thumb:
-
I couldn't stand the peer pressure so I ordered the $150 single tube conversion kit from Dodd. :duh:
No peer pressure but my $99 DIY Teflon tube rings are still available. All you need is one. :lol:
Seems like curiosity got the best of you.
Hope you like what you hear.
If not.......it is ALL Trung :green:
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No peer pressure but my $99 DIY Teflon tube rings are still available. All you need is one. :lol:
Seems like curiosity got the best of you.
Hope you like what you hear.
If not.......it is ALL Trung :green:
:lol:
-
Mariusz-
Anything to tell us?
-
A bit busy but I did some work on buffer conversion and snapped few pics.
More later......
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39734)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39735)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39736)
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Mariusz
Looking good.
:thumb:
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There is something that needs to be mentioned to those interested in using 6H30 supertube in Dodd buffer. This tube is substantially taller then any 12V or 6V tube comparable with this buffer and some changes to tube pot layout might be necessary.
:thumb:
And thank you Trung
(stay tuned for special announcement tomorrow regarding Special Christmas offer from Dodd Audio)
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Mariusz
You'r welcome :thumb:
What do you think about the sound of 6H30 tube?
"tube pot layout might be necessary"
Check :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39701)
(stay tuned for special announcement tomorrow regarding Special Christmas offer from Dodd Audio)
Awesome :thumb:
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Thanks for the pics Mariusz. :thumb:
Is the conversion plug n play or a lot of reworking?
Special Christmas announcement? :scratch:
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Thanks for the pics Mariusz. :thumb:
Is the conversion plug n play or a lot of reworking?
Special Christmas announcement? :scratch:
In my case - easy.
Remove voltage regulator and install it on oversize heatsink.
Drill the opening for extra long 6h30 tube. Install tube pot and heatsink raisers.
I also had to replace the input selector switch (my fault).
Your kit might be totally different then what we have.
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In my case - easy.
Remove voltage regulator and install it on oversize heatsink.
Drill the opening for extra long 6h30 tube. Install tube pot and heatsink raisers.
I also had to replace the input selector switch (my fault).
Your kit might be totally different then what we have.
Doesn't sound bad...
I would really like to keep the 6H30 in the chassis though. Can it be done?
-
Only if you side mount the tube pot. Same as in Trung's buffer.
-
Has anyone determined the minimum size heatsink required for the voltage regualtor?
Best,
Ed
-
Ed
I think the heat of regulator just like 7 - 10 watts light bulb.
-
Ed
I think the heat of regulator just like 7 - 10 watts light bulb.
Thanks Trung, that helps.
Best,
Ed
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^^^^
You'r welcome.
:thumb:
-
Here are few shots of layout modification.
Basicly the goal here was to make the tube swap an easier affair. So the tube pot was raised and hole will be cut out in the top of the case.
Heat sink with voltage regulator was position to the side of the case and cut was made in letter "D" to gain access to the switch.
front view (http://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom?uname=stark.mariusz&aid=5450185165882647201&id=5548921671977243538&viewportWidth=320&viewportHeight=416)
side view (http://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom?uname=stark.mariusz&aid=5450185165882647201&id=5548921896211279634&viewportWidth=320&viewportHeight=416)
case cutout view (http://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom?uname=stark.mariusz&aid=5450185165882647201&id=5548922184552564098&viewportWidth=320&viewportHeight=416)
-
If you are buying a new assembled kit for a 6H30 tube would it already be cut out, or is his just in your case?
-
I received a Gary-assembled buffer a week ago. Later tonight I will post a pic which shows how he put it together with an extra heat sink to accommodate the 6h30 buffer. He did not have to cut out a hole for the tube. I do not have a 6h30 tube yet so I am not completely sure that there is enough space in the case but I am trusting that Gary made sure.
-
finished-front view (http://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom?uname=stark.mariusz&aid=5450185165882647201&id=5549216159779031570&viewportWidth=320&viewportHeight=416)
side view (http://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom?uname=stark.mariusz&aid=5450185165882647201&id=5549216776678730882&viewportWidth=320&viewportHeight=416)
voltage regulator/switch view (http://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom?uname=stark.mariusz&aid=5450185165882647201&id=5549217638957173538&viewportWidth=320&viewportHeight=416)
-
^^^^^
Looking good. :thumb:
-
Sounding good as well. :thumb:
-
^^^^^
6H30 is "Amazing" sound for the price.
:thumb:
-
I would have to do some tube swapping to get the essence of 6h30 supertube but from my recollection - this tube has greater inner detail, air, soundstaging and body.(compared to stock JJ)
As you can see, swapping tubes or voltage is a matter of seconds and can be done on the fly with access to both, tube & voltage selector.
Very happy customer indeed. :thumb:
-
Here is a pic of the inside of a Gary-built buffer. I think there is plenty of room for a larger tube. Hope this helps.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39849)
-
Usp1
I noticed you don't have the "bypass" caps yet.
"bypass" caps will bring the buffer up to another level :thumb:
-
Should be fine. In vertical orientation, tube just wouldn't fit. We are talking about 1/8" or so but nevertheless, you wouldn't want to take that chance. :thumb:
-
Usp1
I noticed you don't have the "bypass" caps yet.
"bypass" caps will bring the buffer up to another level :thumb:
One thing at a time... :D On my shopping list
1. 6h30 tube
2. Pavane 12xxx tube
3. Bypass caps
-
^^^^^
Get the "bypass" caps, you may not need the Pavane. :wink:
-
^^^^^
So your advice is to switch the order and get the bypass caps first? Even before the 6h30?
-
^^^^^
6H30 and "bypass" caps are almost same price.
Either way is good.
You will hear the difference when you add each one.
-
Trung,
What is the bypass cap I should be getting? Sonicap platinum? What value? They seem pricey.
-
Sonicap and Gary can hook you up. :wink:
-
Get bypass first and wait a little then start changing tubes.
-
If you are buying a new assembled kit for a 6H30 tube would it already be cut out, or is his just in your case?
That's just my own take on Dodd buffer case.
- I like exposed tubes
- much easier to swap tubes and voltage
- IMO looks cool
- I also inserted dark wood inlays in all control
knobs - imput, power/mute,volume. Makes them easier to read from across the room. It also helps in avoiding mistakes like leaving the unit ON or in Mute position and possibly draining the battery dry.
front view (http://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom?uname=stark.mariusz&aid=5450185165882647201&id=5548921671977243538&viewportWidth=320&viewportHeight=416)
finished-front view (http://picasaweb.google.com/m/zoom?uname=stark.mariusz&aid=5450185165882647201&id=5549216159779031570&viewportWidth=320&viewportHeight=416)
Gary can rearrange things inside the case to accommodate tubes such as 6H30.
-
Anyone have any pics of the single tube conversion that they did?
-
Jt
Just follow the diagram:
http://doddaudio.com/Documents/DIAGRAM.pdf
I can snap some picture if needed.
Just give me a buzz.
:thumb:
-
What differences do you notice with the platinum bipass caps? I mean a real, meaningful description, not just high emotion comments ("must have", "blow you away", "you won't regret it", etc.)
Not all upgrades work for everyone. I would be willing to pay for something that gave more ease to the presentation, opened up the soundstage, more 3d depth, or such.
There's usually some noticeable degree of electronic tension to these machines we use, anything that lessons that is to me an upgrade.
I'm deciding whether to include the platinums with my order.
Thanks, Don
-
I would be willing to pay for something that gave more ease to the presentation, opened up the soundstage, more 3d depth, or such.
Thanks, Don
Great job answering your own question. :green:
-
what a coincidence...
Just wondering if anyone can describe any noticeable sonic change when adding them to the buffer.
-
Don
To me Platinum by-pass caps give a deeper, tighter bass, more detail and open, wider detail, you can just get the basic kit and add the by-pass caps later and you will hear the change in sound (take awhile to break in the by-pass caps)
Don't forget to get the 6H30 tube for it. :thumb:
-
Thanks for the reply TrungT. I was thinking to go about it that way. I'll do some searching about the 6h30. Think its shipped with 6n1p. I'm curious to try other tubes in that circuit.
Don
-
Don
After rolling few tube around, to me 6H30 is the best. :thumb:
You can start with Sovtek tube under $35.
Your Dodd buffer kit come with upgrade heatsink, so you are all set. :wink:
If you need any help please drop me a note.
Happy holiday.
-
Has anyone compared the different flavors of 6H30 tube? The Sovtek and EH brands seem to be the more affordable ones. Has anyone tried the DR Supertube?
-
^^^^^
I using Sovtek and EH, the both almost sound the same, EH may be little quieter.
I have not try DR tube yet.
-
I received my Dobb Buffer yesterday and spent a couple of hours soldering. I'm beginning to think a jeweler's visor might be in order. :lol:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=40878)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=40879)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=40877)
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39022)
Can you explain how you grounded your inputs and outputs? Did you solder the ring tabs on each one to a common piece of copper rod and then ground the copper rod to the chassis?
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=39077)
All ground a connected together.
You can use the RCA ground as a main ground bus.
-
In trying to figure out if a Dodd buffer is in my future - I've run into one puzzling spec ?
My greatly appreciated Sony XDR-F1HD HD tuner lists the following :
Audio Output
Output Level .7V rms at 47 Kohms
Recommended load impedance over 10 Kohms
I think the Sony manual is probably wrong - but haven't found a test so far that lists the tested audio output impedance for this product. I doubt the 47Kohm figure is accurate and can't imagine why they would tell you to run a higher impedance into a lower impedance ?
-
^^^^^
I has a Sony HD tuner, Dodd buffer and Virtue One.2 classic sound great.
-
I believe the spec means that you get 0.7Vrms when it has a 47K ohm load attached.
The next line recommends a load impedance higher than 10K ohms for the Sony HD tuner.
-
Here are some pics of the single tube conversion with the 6H30.
Thanks again Gary! :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41010)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41011)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41012)
-
^^^^^
Looking good, now how's it sound?
-
^^^^^
Looking good, now how's it sound?
Waaaay to early. It works and sounds like my buffer so that's a start. :thumb:
-
JT
What's tube you have on?
-
JT
What's tube you have on?
6H30
-
^^^^^
Pi or Dr?
-
^^^^^
Pi or Dr?
http://thetubestore.com/ehx6h30.html
-
Good choice :thumb:
-
OK got my buffer up and running, thanks for the advice from Trung, jtwrace and any others I might have spoke with.
Quick note anyone else that buys a built one when you plug in the 12volt
power cable in the back make sure you turn it to lock it in, I did not know
this and did not get any power on. So after tracing the power from the battery to the end of the cable, then testing the fuse still nothing until I realized you
had to turn the connector to lock it DOH!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41049)
Also quick question I know some people leave the charger attached to the battery when you are using it, I bolted the power cable to the battery terminals
and then attached the charger clamps to the battery terminals is this how everyone else does it?
(http://)
First listening tonight this thing sounds awesome, all the things I like about
tube pre's, great vocals, great imaging along with the dynamics and clarity of solid state pre's, using the 6h30pi tube for now.
-
^^^^^
:thumb:
Welcome to Dodd bandwagon :wink:
About the charger: "plugged in, forget about it" :thumb:
-
I'm not on the bandwagon I'm trying the sit next to Gary as the Pilot. :lol:
I have something in the works for the buffer...stay tuned. :green:
-
Sounds exciting JT
Looks like Gary has something also, Stereophile's coverage
of the Rocky Mtn Audiofest mentions "hybrid mono amps"
in the room with GR Research. I think it willl be based on the
Classdamp boards. We will see soon I hope.
-
^^^^^
Dodd Hybrid Mono Amps at RMAF 2010 are Mosfet Hybrid.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41079)
-
Now I really want a pair of those amps. :green:
-
JTWrace, just what you got? :icon_lol:
Those amps are the new hybrid mono's. A single tube frontend with mosfet out put stage (Hitachi mosfets). Power supply consists of a 1KVA toroid with 136,000uf of filter cap with a stealth diode bridge. They are biased very hard into class A and run very hot!! They are 200@8ohms 350@4 ohms approximately 100 watts of it is pure class A! :green:
Gary
-
JTWrace, just what you got? :icon_lol:
Those amps are the new hybrid mono's. A single tube frontend with mosfet out put stage (Hitachi mosfets). Power supply consists of a 1KVA toroid with 136,000uf of filter cap with a stealth diode bridge. They are biased very hard into class A and run very hot!! They are 200@8ohms 350@4 ohms approximately 100 watts of it is pure class A! :green:
Gary
cost?
-
I don't think this is the place to let the price of the amps known. They are very cheerful, but not really cheap! :)
Gary
-
I don't think this is the place to let the price of the amps known. They are very cheerful, but not really cheap! :)
Gary
Gotcha! Let us know where post the new thread about them. :thumb:
-
The Dodd hybrid monoblocks sounded really good with the Super-V's at RMAF2010! :thumb:
-
JTWrace, just what you got? :icon_lol:
Gary
I promise it will not disappoint. It will take the buffer to another level (as Danny likes to say). Which level? You will have to wait! :thumb:
-
JT
You killing me here, I hate to wait. :icon_twisted:
Sometime, patient pay off. :thumb:
-
Hello all,
my name is Simon and searching for a preamp solution I came about this thread.
I wonder if anybody of you has compared the buffer preamp to one of the AVC or TVC
pres out there.
Until I saw the buffer this was the route I wanted to go.
Electronically I´m a total noob :duh:,so do You think the Dodd buffer could de doable for a absolute beginner?
Getting an assembled one is finiancially out of reach at the moment.
I´d appreciate any comments
Simon
-
Getting an assembled one is finiancially out of reach at the moment.
I´d appreciate any comments
Simon
You should email Gary Dodd to find out how much he would charge to assemble the kit. I don't think it is as expensive as you may be imagining.
-
I have my buffer soldered and wired in a temporary layout until my enclosure arrives. I've only soldered in one set of inputs and outputs for the time being, but there is a problem.
When I apply power and set the selector, I can hear a relay click but no sound. The tube is not glowing either. I checked my wiring and found a couple of reverse wires between the selection and power switches. Correcting that error had no effect. I've checked the other connections and don't see any obvious (to me) errors. :scratch:
Suggestions for troubleshooting this would be welcome.
-
Atlplasma I have PM'd you.
Gary
-
I completed the mod on my Dodd buffer for the change to a 6H30 tube. I attached the voltage regulator to a heatsink which I found in an old computer self powered subwoofer. To make room for the heatsink I moved the large potted module to the left as far as it can go. Due to the extra height of the new tube the tube socket module needs to be mounted on a "L" bracket so the tube is now horizontal. This job is not to difficult and the results are worth it, a very 3D soundstage, I was amazed. I had no idea this much difference could come from just changing a tube. I have included a few pics of what I did, maybe they will help someone.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41286)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41287)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41288)
-
Nice job!
Now get some bypass caps on that there buffer. :thumb:
-
Nice job SL_1800
6H30 does make the Dodd Buffer to the another level. :thumb:
Add by-pass caps, will bring it up one more notch
-
Hmm, now you guys are forcing me to think about making the mods to mine!
-
I added the platinum bypass caps a couple of weeks ago but I am not sure that I like the result. There is certainly an increase in detail but I am finding the hf to be a bit harsh now. I read in some threads that the caps require from 100-400 hrs of break in, so I have to be patient.
-
forcing me
:nono: It's up to you and your pocket. :P
-
^^^^^
JT got his buffer mods :thumb:
:wink:
-
I completed my buffer kit last evening with the "L" bracket for the tube module, large heatsink and Sonicap Platinum bypass caps. Will check all the wiring this evening. Then just have to install the knobs and the purpleheart front panel.
Will check it out with the 6N1P tube and then install the 6H30Pi. :-)
-
You guys are really starting to get me interested in this damn thing. . .but I want new speakers first.
Just an FYI.
Paul
-
I finally have my heatsink and EH 6H30Pi tube installed! :thumb:
When I initially tried to install the heatsink I ended up breaking a leg off of my voltage regulator :cry:. An email and a couple of days later Gary had a replacement in my hands (THANKS GARY!!!).
I am listening to it now, too early to note anything definitive but off the cuff it sounds like the bass is more detailed, so far so great!
Here is the requisite pic:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41293)
Best,
Ed
-
Buy a N2X kit or Super-V kit and build some speakers. The battery buffer works great with either setup! :thumb:
-
Buy a N2X kit or Super-V kit and build some speakers. The battery buffer works great with either setup! :thumb:
I can vouch that this is definitely true with the V1, a match made in heaven (actually in Texas)!!
Best,
Ed
-
Ed :thumb:
On my system, 6H30DR tube, the bass lower and tight, wider sound stage, everything details at lower volume.
6H30DR $50 is good tube.
-
You guys are really starting to get me interested in this damn thing. . .but I want new speakers first.
Just an FYI.
Paul
You should be interested! It's awesome! :thumb:
-
^^^^^
JT got his buffer mods :thumb:
:wink:
Yes I did but they don't need to be like me. :lol:
-
Ed :thumb:
On my system, 6H30DR tube, the bass lower and tight, wider sound stage, everything details at lower volume.
6H30DR $50 is good tube.
Good to know Trung. I am really enjoying what this 6H30Pi is doing to my system. I believe I gave $40 for it shipped from Tube Depot.
Best,
Ed
-
Yes I did but they don't need to be like me. :lol:
Jason,
Are you going to share what you are doing to your buffer?
Best,
Ed
-
Jason,
Are you going to share what you are doing to your buffer?
Best,
Ed
Watcha talkin' about Ed?
-
Jason,
You ever heard the song by Tom Waits:
WHATS HE BUILDING IN THERE? :scratch:
WE HAVE A RIGHT TO KNOW! :lol:
Gary
-
Jason,
You ever heard the song by Tom Waits:
WHATS HE BUILDING IN THERE? :scratch:
WE HAVE A RIGHT TO KNOW! :lol:
Gary
OH!!! I'm sorry...I have so much going on that I couldn't think for the life of me of what Ed was speaking of. Sorry but you all will need to wait. I PROMISE it will not disappoint and it will be available to ALL.
**It will not improve sonics but will add some bling** To some though that may add something sonically. :P
-
^^^^^
A lot of colorful LED :lol:
-
^^^^^
A lot of colorful LED :lol:
:nono:
-
Started burning in the buffer this evening with the stock 6N1P tube as a trial. Sounded pretty good, but a bit bottom heavy and the top seemed rolled off. Listened to a few songs then switched over to the Sovtek 6H30Pi. Now this is much better and not even burned in for 2 hours! :o
This is going to be a fun process of listening to the music collection again! :D
-
^^^^^
Welcome to Dodd Audio 6H30 club. :thumb:
-
Has anyone tried any other 3.3uF caps their buffer? If so, what?
-
:thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41314)
http://www.anaudibledifferencenm.com/Audio-Products/Component-Elevator.aspx (http://www.anaudibledifferencenm.com/Audio-Products/Component-Elevator.aspx)
-
Will take pics of the buffer when the black knobs arrive from Gary.
I like the way they look in comparison to the chrome version! :thumb:
-
I am planning to build an acrylic clear case. Can I ask the dimensions (LxWxD) of the Dodd buffer chassis (without the front plate, knobs and feet)? If it is ok. Thanks!
-
^^^^^
8 5/8" W X 7 1/2" D X 3 1/2" H
Acrylic case is cool, but no RF shield.
Metal chassis is best way to go.
This one is my favor, very easy to work with.
10.4" x 6.6" x 4.25"
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6424 (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6424)
-
^^^^^
8 5/8" W X 7 1/2" D X 3 1/2" H
Acrylic case is cool, but no RF shield.
Metal chassis is best way to go.
This one is my favor, very easy to work with.
10.4" x 6.6" x 4.25"
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6424 (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6424)
I like the clear look but did not know about the RF interference. I'll look for a knobs from the previous post that matches the metal case. It might take me a while to build the case and solder the components since this is my 1st DIY. I'll keep on reading this thread.
Also my mistake... height not length :duh:
Thanks TrungT!
-
^^^^
You'r welcome.
Glad to help. :thumb:
-
I have not used the case but some additional options folks might be interested in. Was looking at them for ClassD amp case.http://stores.ebay.com/gkphotonics?_rdc=1 (http://stores.ebay.com/gkphotonics?_rdc=1)
(http://gkphotonics.com/images/gk8.jpg) (http://gkphotonics.com/images/gk5.jpg)
(http://gkphotonics.com/images/gk4.jpg)
-
^^^^^
8 5/8" W X 7 1/2" D X 3 1/2" H
Acrylic case is cool, but no RF shield.
Metal chassis is best way to go.
This one is my favor, very easy to work with.
10.4" x 6.6" x 4.25"
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6424 (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6424)
TrungT, you convinced me-specially after talking to Gary. I had built a mesquite and acrylic case, but ordered the metal chassis. I'll use the mesquite on the front.
-
Scott,
I am really liking my kit in Gary's metal chassis! I put in the mods for the 6H30Pi tube and having fun listening during the burn-in process.
-
To burn-in my buffer with the Platinum Sonicap bypass faster, I am putting in the 6N1P tube. Using my old Heathkit pink noise generator, running with a 9VDC rechargeable battery as the input. Putting the buffer on my bench 12VDC power supply and letting her run for 200 hours. Then it is time for more 6H30Pi fun! :D
-
Hal
I'm still awaiting for those picture(s). :wink:
-
I just got my buffer back with the new tube upgrade. UNBELIEVABLE!
-
I just got my buffer back with the new tube upgrade. UNBELIEVABLE!
+1, Loving the 6H30Pi ! :thumb:
Best,
Ed
-
Ed
When you can get a DR, you can play at a low volume level and it still good.
:thumb:
-
Ed
When you can get a DR, you can play at a low volume level and it still good.
:thumb:
Lower Volumes???....What's that?? :guitar: :drums: :rock:
Best,
Ed
-
Ed
Oh, never mind :wink:
:thumb:
-
Hal
I'm still awaiting for those picture(s). :wink:
Trung,
When Gary sends the black knobs, I promise to take pictures and post them. :D
-
Hal
Just make your chrome knobs black :lol:
Sorry, I thought you already have your black knobs.
I have to let you slice this time :thumb:
-
I have had my Dodd buffer for some time now, with the battery and charger sitting in the floor, which is not so nice looking. Yesterday I built a box for the battery and charger from an old HK computer sub, removed the front and back from the sub and made new front and back sprayed with texture paint. I included two outlets so I can run my Dodd and perhaps something else some day. I put a switch on the back to turn the charger off and 2 switches that can change from straight battery to filtered battery. I'm sure most of you have seen the Felix power filter on the Lab section of this forum. The Felix used a common mode choke and caps to filter unwanted noise from AC, it works on DC too. My charger puts some noise into the system, that's why I included two Felix type filters, one on each output. And yes the filters work very well to remove the charger noise.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41698)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41699)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41700)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41697)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41696)
-
Very nice! :thumb:
-
^^^^^
Great looking and great ideal.
:thumb:
-
Beautiful! Good Job!!! :thumb: :thumb:
Gary
-
Dang Steve, that looks awesome!
-
Thanks for the kind words guys.
-
Very nice! Maybe add a small vent to allow any gas to escape?...John
-
AGM batteries are no maintenance, completely sealed against fumes, Hydrogen, or leakage, non-spilling even if they are broken. :thumb:
-
Trung is correct, non spilling is what is stated on the battery. I have used many of this type at work and have never had one leak anything. The battery I'm using is a 28 Ah Worker battery from Battery Plus.
-
Even the big Optima Blue Top 12V 75Ah AGM's are the same. No spillage and no problem using them indoors since there is no venting. :thumb:
-
I've got a 100aH (thanks Trung) laying on its' side right now. Works great!!!
-
I see I didn't show a picture of the battery in the box, it's on it's side as well.
-
The buffer kit with the 6H30Pi has about 50 hours on it at this point and it sounds really good! If it keeps getting better :o
-
^^^^^
:thumb:
Just wait til' you get your DR tube. :icon_lol: :thumb:
-
The Cryoset treated Sovtek 6H30Pi is here and will be checked out this weekend. :D
Still waiting on the 6H30-DR to arrive.
-
JT
You killing me here, I hate to wait. :icon_twisted:
Sometime, patient pay off. :thumb:
Here is my battery box for my Dodd Audio Buffer. Now I just need to wire it up.
Built by Randall Kepley who is a member here on A.C.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42201)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42202)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42203)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42204)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42205)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42206)
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=89986.msg898727;topicseen#new
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=90845.msg898725;topicseen#new
-
Oh my goodness that looks good.
-
Here is my battery box for my Dodd Audio Buffer. Now I just need to wire it up.
Built by Randall Kepley who is a member here on A.C.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42201)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42202)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42203)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42204)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42205)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42206)
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=89986.msg898727;topicseen#new
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=90845.msg898725;topicseen#new
Jason,
That is FULL BLOWN AWESOME!!! :thumb: Randall does beautiful work!!! :D
Dave
-
This guy should be building speaker cabinets. :D
-
Now that's beautiful workmanship!!!! :thumb: Excellent! :green:
Way to go Jason! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Gary
-
This guy should be building speaker cabinets. :D
I'm thinking Super V's, how about you. :D
Dave
-
I'm thinking Super V's, how about you. :D
Dave
Yeah me too. I might have to get him to make me some.
-
Guys I want to Thank You all for your kind words! It realy means alot, These boxes were a great little project and I love doing projects like this. For all that dont know this isnt a hobby for me its what I do for a living and you can ask jason hes been to my shop several times and I take it very seriously. I have spikes ordered for them but havent arrived yet I didnt have the heart to ask Jason to wait a few more days untill they came in :lol: I know he was dieing to see them. We were emailing and texting each other all day yesterday back and forth and I was trying to keep him abreast of what I was doing untill the final step he was very excited. Once again thank you for all your kind words. Randall Kepley
-
Yeah me too. I might have to get him to make me some.
Well, you hold the key! Get to it!
-
I'm thinking Super V's, how about you. :D
Dave
Don't let Gayle see this...she might have Randall building yours. :lol: Heck, she might have him in NM building your kitchen.
-
:rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:
Jason, you killing me :thumb:
-
Don't let Gayle see this...she might have Randall building yours. :lol: Heck, she might have him in NM building your kitchen.
If you can FAX Randall out, Gayle would see to it that he is well fed. :lol:
Actually I've been making pretty good progress on the kitchen and all of the little support projects that go along with it. I can see a light waayyyyyy off in the distance.
Finally!
Dave
-
Don't let Gayle see this...she might have Randall building yours. :lol: Heck, she might have him in NM building your kitchen.
Jason can tell you what my other Cabinetry looks like ! :green: I aim to please. R.K.
-
Jason can tell you what my other Cabinetry looks like ! :green: I aim to please. R.K.
Randall, I have no doubt. Every detail shows the mark of a craftsman. I love quilted and flame maple. There is something about the shimmer depth - beauty.
Great work! :thumb: :green:
Dave
-
One thing that I should add is that the top coat that was used is a satin. It gives the perfect sheen for me. I don't like gloss but this still brings out the beautiful grain.
Also, this stuff is incredibly durable. Randall poured lacquer thinner on a sample to show me. :o My stands have the same finish. :thumb:
-
That is gorgeous and would go great with my speakers and buffer! Any pics from inside the open end?
Best,
Ed
-
That is gorgeous and would go great with my speakers and buffer! Any pics from inside the open end?
Best,
Ed
Thanks!
I'm sorry but I don't understand your picture question.
-
Thanks!
I'm sorry but I don't understand your picture question.
There appears to be a door on one end, perhaps with an outlet for the chager to plug into?
edit: nevermind, need more coffee, that is the lid sitting on the floor.
Best,
Ed
-
That looks very nice. :thumb:
-
There appears to be a door on one end, perhaps with an outlet for the chager to plug into?
edit: nevermind, need more coffee, that is the lid sitting on the floor.
Best,
Ed
That's correct. The lid is to the left standing up. The piece that the charger is attached to slides in and out of the box. The wiring is under that which will go to the PowerCon's that are on the back of the unit. Blue is power to the charger and Gray is power out to the buffer.
I'll take some more pics when the wiring is done.
-
That is gorgeous and would go great with my speakers and buffer! Any pics from inside the open end?
Best,
Ed
Ed, when I saw this I immediately thought of you. What a great match-up.
Dave
-
Ed, when I saw this I immediately thought of you. What a great match-up.
Dave
The pictures just don't do it justice either.
-
The pictures just don't do it justice either.
I bet. With the satin finish I'm sure it just glows and shimmers!
I'm with you on not liking the high gloss finishes much anymore... even on my guitars. There is that "well loved" patina that use gives 8)
Ever since I found waterborne polyurethanes I have been in hog heaven. They apply easily, look great and are resistant to lots of chemicals. I especially like KTM-9. I use a flatting agent with it and it is easy to work with and gives a beautiful finish. I have to admit that there is nothing like good old nitro lacquer for the best guitar finishes from the tone standpoint.
Dave
-
Yeah me too. I might have to get him to make me some.
2011 RMAF is not that far away....
-
It's alive! :dance:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42250)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42251)
-
It's alive! :dance:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42250)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42251)
How cool is that!
Dave
-
How cool is that!
Dave
I think it's very cool. :D
-
Man Jason you've been a busy little bee! Wireing looks great also. Hope everything works as it should. Thanks for the business! :thumb: R.K.
-
Battery Box is working great!
Also, the 6H30 is pretty sweet. It's finally coming alive.. :thumb:
-
^^^^^
JT
6H30DR :thumb:
-
Bad weather here in North TX, stuck indoor couple days, made the battery pwr dist.
Not thing fancy like JT battery box.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42332)
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42333)
-
Inside picture?
What are you going to power?
-
Inside Picture, Top secret :lol:
Powered by 12V 100AH battery :thumb:
-
WOOHOO! The black knobs arrived today! Now if I could only find a 1/8" Allen wrench! :duh:
-
^^^^
I have an extra one here :wink:
-
Thanks Trung, but you are a bit to far away and iced in! :o
I did find one in my hex driver kit, but it is to short. Heading to the hardware store soon.
-
Trung, very nice work. Is that a digital voltage meter on the front? Where did you get it?
-
Questions, all you guys with the battery boxes with more than one output.
Is it ok to power more than one component off of one battery, and do you
just daisy chain the outputs or run seperate cables from the battery terminals?
JT on the wood box where is the AC connector? Do you just run the AC cord
from the charger out of the bottom of the box? Looka nice I really want one.
BTW my buffer has finally burned in it has opened up a lot more bass is tighter
The Platinum caps must take a while
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41049)
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42351)
Very good self-power (2 wires), good meter. Don't buy "junk" from Fleabay
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/DMS-20LCD-0-DCM-C/?qs=b13bmSh8y6x1ZZgi49a3RQ%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/DMS-20LCD-0-DCM-C/?qs=b13bmSh8y6x1ZZgi49a3RQ%3d%3d)
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?site=us&lang=en&mpart=DMS-20LCD-1-DCM-C (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?site=us&lang=en&mpart=DMS-20LCD-1-DCM-C)
-
The Platinum caps must take a while
To really settle those caps need a good 500 hours.
And you can parallel other gear on the same battery.
-
JT on the wood box where is the AC connector?
The blue PowerCon is AC power in to the charger and the gray PowerCon is power out to the Buffer.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42202)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42251)
Do you just run the AC cord
from the charger out of the bottom of the box? Looks nice I really want one.
:nono: See above. I can take more pics if you need but I think this will explain it all.
-
Since I know Trung wanted pics of the buffer...
Twins from different mothers:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42352)
The purpleheart goes with my Dodd battery PA.
The Buffer in Padauk is for a friend to try out.
-
^^^^
Very nice. :drool: :drool: :drool:
-
Ok JT,
you used a powercon for AC. got it
-
Ok JT,
you used a powercon for AC. got it
and DC. :wink:
-
^^^^
Very nice. :drool: :drool: :drool:
They are indeed! A BIG thanks goes to Gary for the great sounding buffer kit! :thumb:
-
Oh Boy, the 6H30P-DR arrived today! Date code looks like 0780. This should be interesting! :D
-
and DC. :wink:
The PowerCons are the most under used and unappreciated connectors in audio IMO. You kust have to copnfigure them different to make sure that AC and DC aren't mixed up in use. Your application is geat! They are what I putting on my power cabinet, too.
Dave
-
You must have to configure them different to make sure that AC and DC aren't mixed up in use.
Dave
Yes, that's why I used a gray and blue....they are keyed differently.
-
Yes, that's why I used a gray and blue....they are keyed differently.
Yep!
:thumb:
Dave
-
I just got my buffer up and running and so far it sounds great :D
I am going to get a 6h30pi to try next.
I have read the these tubes run quite warm and was wondering if anyone has tried a "tube ring"
like Herbie's or the like.I haven't seen any photos that have tubes with rings...
With how the tube is mounted I'm not sure if they would fit... :scratch:
Also in general do these things make a difference in sound quality??
-
^^^^^
:thumb:
Go for the 6H30DR if you can.
Please post any picture of your build.
We like picture(s) :wink:
-
I use one of Herbie's Ultrasonic Rx9 dampers on my 6H30P-DR tube without any problem. I have my tube socket on the "L" bracket like Trung and the Rx9 fits easily.
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42623)
-
I just got my buffer up and running and so far it sounds great :D
I am going to get a 6h30pi to try next.
I have read the these tubes run quite warm and was wondering if anyone has tried a "tube ring"
like Herbie's or the like.I haven't seen any photos that have tubes with rings...
With how the tube is mounted I'm not sure if they would fit... :scratch:
Also in general do these things make a difference in sound quality??
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41011)
-
do you guys find the dampers make an improvement in sound quality??
or are they more for heat removal ??
-
do you guys find the dampers make an improvement in sound quality??
or are they more for heat removal ??
No, they make a difference sonically but I suppose they do act as a heatsink too.
Herbie's is what most people use http://herbiesaudiolab.net/tube.htm
Steve has a circle here on A.C. as well.
-
There is a place here in Canada selling the "DR" tubes for $100
seems like a decent price...
hxxp://www.element-acoustics.ca/products.php?pid=519
-
Check out Parts Connexion as well. $20 less.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/tube_nos_6dj8.html
-
^^^^^
Good find.
Wondering what year is the DR tube though :scratch:
The $50 DR on Fleabay sounding very good. :thumb:
-
Don't know. I'll see if there's anything on the box (that I can read) when it arrive.
Trung, I'm still soldering away (slowly). One lesson learned. Wait for the enclosure before building the kit. Otherwise, you end up building it TWICE. :oops:
Steve
-
^^^^^
Practice ... made perfect :thumb:
Don't forget to snap some picture
-
so...
Parts conexion $79
element acoustics $100
the tube store $199
Parts connesxion and The Tube store are both less than 20 minutes form me...
Why is there such a wide range in price??
Are there differences in the DR tubes??
-
^^^^
Just like wine, The older they are, the expensive they get.
-
^^^^
Just like wine, The older they are, the expensive they get.
Ahhh. This explains why I'm getting more expensive as the years pass. :o
-
So I could assume that the $199 tube would sound better that the $79 tube??
I know what they say about when you "ass u me" :wink:
but if I thought that the more expensive tube would sound better I just might spring for it but I don't want to waste $100....
I do appreciate fine wine but within limits... :D
-
^^^^^
Well ... I tried Sotek $25 tube ... then Electro-Harmonix $35 tube ... Now DR $50 tube ... sound best so far. :thumb:
$100 DR tube ... have to wait :scratch:
-
Trung
What amp and speakers do you use?
-
^^^^^
Right now.
Class D Battery Powered
Dunlavy SCIV
-
Here are three photos of my build in progress. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42638)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42639)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42640)
-
^^^^^
Looking good. :thumb:
-
Another quick update. Only a few more wires to shorten and then we should be ready for a test run.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42714)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42715)
-
^^^^^
Well ... I tried Sotek $25 tube ... then Electro-Harmonix $35 tube ... Now DR $50 tube ... sound best so far. :thumb:
$100 DR tube ... have to wait :scratch:
TrungT,
I am at the $25 Sovtek tube right now. I tried the stock tube Gary send, an old RCA 12AX7 tube and the $25 6h30 tube. The 12AX7 was a clear and easy to hear improvement over the stock tube. The 6H30 was a smaller improvement. I am tempted to try a DR tube from fleabay but hesitate to buy from unknown foreign suppliers, and not sure how much of an improvement the DR tube will be. How would you describe the improvement with the DR tube? More detail? more bass control?
-
Here are some photos of my buffer...
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42718)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42719)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42720)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42721)
-
^^^^^
Looking good. :thumb:
To me: DR tube improve on everything, specially at low volume.
Few people got the $50 DR tube from Russia without problem.
-
Looks good, Rtate.
A general question for the group on the Neutrik plug. I'm assuming a two conductor wire is fine for this application.
-
^^^^^
L (+)
N (-)
That's all
:thumb:
What's battery are you going to be use?
-
I have three 7 ah batteries. If this thing actually works after everything I've done to it, I'll probably wire the batteries in parallel.
-
I put the buffer into my test system and have MUSIC! :thumb:
I'll have to get it into my main system ASAP!
-
Atlplasma, congratulations, you will enjoy I'm sure.
-
Thanks. I moved the buffer to my main system last night, and it was killer. Can't wait until the DR tube arrives.
-
Just got the Parts Connexion tube (6H30-P DR 8086). It sounds really good, but I can tell that it's a real heater.
-
Atlplasma, Do you know what the date code is on your DR tube ?
-
^^^^^
:thumb:
I'm going to ask the same question.
-
I have a query into Parts Connexion to see if they can clarify. I can vouch for the tube's robustness. I just realized that I've been playing it for half a day at 12 volts. :o
That's what happens when you're too quick on the trigger. :duh:
My dyslexia is in fine form today. I rechecked the tube and the print is actually 8606 (not 8086), which I suspect means June 1986.
Ever have one of those days...
-
Just a little Dodd Audio tube lust! :D I borrowed this amp from GR Research, it sounds fantastic. Gary you really should consider putting these back into production.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42938)
-
Yeah, what happened to the battery amps? A set of those in mono configuration that could do at least 30 watts might lessen my atma-sphere lust.
-
I love that amp!
Gary is working on a new power supply (or power converter) that will take them up a notch. Maybe we can get him to put them in production when he has finished perfecting them.
-
That is the one to dream about!
-
Atlplasma , form the research that I have done it appears that 8606 would be
a production date of August, 2006....
or 1986 week 6...
but I'm not positive :scratch:
-
I am waiting on the PS upgrade for mine.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=24252)
It is the mate of the bottom buffer.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42352)
-
Here is some more...
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42940)
I love these things. You can't weld with like you can with a Krell, but they are the best preamp/amp combo that I've had for making music.
Bring 'em back, Gary
Dave
-
More picture please :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42945)
-
Trung,
What wood is your buffer remote made of?
-
^^^^^
I don't really know, but I can find out.
:thumb:
-
Dave, I think yours looks pretty good. There is nothing like matching wood on these things...
Here's mine. :green:
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/ampandbuffer.jpg)
-
Dave, I think yours looks pretty good. There is nothing like matching wood on these things...
Here's mine. :green:
(http://www.gr-research.com/mis/ampandbuffer.jpg)
Lust is a sin... right? :drool:
The man just does great work. :thumb:
Dave
-
I've had the 6H30-DR tube for about a week and am really enjoying the added bass and detail (compared to the standard 12AX7). Trung keeps telling me the sound becomes truly magical once the caps settle in after a few hundred hours. Can't wait! :thumb:
-
I've had the 6H30-DR tube for about a week and am really enjoying the added bass and detail (compared to the standard 12AX7). Trung keeps telling me the sound becomes truly magical once the caps settle in after a few hundred hours. Can't wait! :thumb:
What Trung said :thumb:
Dave
-
So has anyone tried using pointy, squishy or wood supports under the Dodd Buffer?
I tried some myrtle wood blocks and could not tell a difference, maybe because the
thing is like a little brick and already has some nice feet.
Oh and I have the factory built version
-
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=41314)
Tighten the bass a little, but ... just me. :thumb:
-
I use http://herbiesaudiolab.net/compfeet.htm
-
I use sorbothane semi spheres under most of my equipment.
-
Just got my Dodd Buffer. It's outstanding. I emailed Dodd about customs issues, and got word that he is in the hospital, unfortunately.. :( I waited more than 2 months for this buffer, but health is more important.
-
Let me suggest that everyone send Gary a get-well note or card. I'm sure he would appreciate the support.
-
GET WELL GARY :thumb:
-
I started a Get Well thread for Gary here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=91864.msg911168;topicseen#new (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=91864.msg911168;topicseen#new)
-
I hope Gary has a full and speedy recovery....
I am building an enclosure for my battery power supply and would like to find an analog voltmeter.
Has anyone used one or seen one that would work fo me??
-
You could look for companies that sell solar electric equipment, there are several companies that make them, in 12 and 24 volt ranges.
-
Another possibility is from Auto Parts places. They have battery gauges that should be great.
Just a thought.
-
I have been looking at the automotive stuff and panel mounts from the auction sites but I was looking for something with a little more "character" befitting the Dodd Buffer :D
On another note I just ordered a 6H30-DR from parts connexion for $79
The tubes they have in stock are 1986 vintage as per an e-mail I received from Chris Johnson.
-
I hope Gary has a full and speedy recovery....
I am building an enclosure for my battery power supply and would like to find an analog voltmeter.
Has anyone used one or seen one that would work fo me??
Like this?
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/DIY%20Audio/113fed5b.jpg)
-
^^^^^
Very nice. :thumb:
6H30DR with 86 date code, $79 = great deal. :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=42351)
-
I have been looking at the automotive stuff and panel mounts from the auction sites but I was looking for something with a little more "character" befitting the Dodd Buffer :D
On another note I just ordered a 6H30-DR from parts connexion for $79
The tubes they have in stock are 1986 vintage as per an e-mail I received from Chris Johnson.
I just looked up their site and couldn't find the 6H30-DR. I might like to compare the older vs newer. I just got one in from Russia marked 0902. Does anyone know if that is Sept of 2002 or Feb. of 2009?
Scott
-
^^^^^
09 is the year
02 is the month (not too sure)
http://www.partsconnexion.com/cgi-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi (http://www.partsconnexion.com/cgi-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi)
-
Trung, the link doesn't work for me. Are you sure it is correct?
... never mind, I found it.
-
Can someone who has moved up the line from the Sovtek 6h30 to the DR's please let me know what audible differences they appreciated and if it was worth the extra cost of the tube? Thank you,
David
-
praedet, is that an automotive meter? It looks great.
I know that the digital meters would be more accurate, but it's more the look that I'm going for...
-
I've had the 6H30-DR tube for about a week and am really enjoying the added bass and detail (compared to the standard 12AX7). Trung keeps telling me the sound becomes truly magical once the caps settle in after a few hundred hours. Can't wait! :thumb:
Yes, it is worth every pennies. :wink:
-
Can someone who has moved up the line from the Sovtek 6h30 to the DR's please let me know what audible differences they appreciated and if it was worth the extra cost of the tube? Thank you,
David
On my system (and YMMV) I've noted more bass and additional detail on instrumentals.
-
Yes, it is worth every pennies. :wink:
The pennies are adding up quickly! :) But well worth it.
I should have gone with the DR tube directly instead of spending on the Sovtek as an intermediate solution.
-
^^^^^
Well.... I tried a lot more tube to get at this point 6H30DR. :thumb:
But ... we all have Skeptical mind. :wink:
-
praedet, is that an automotive meter? It looks great.
I know that the digital meters would be more accurate, but it's more the look that I'm going for...
I think it is automotive/marine, and I agree on the accuracy, but I too wanted looks! It lights up with a nice yello glow :green:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13048&familyName=Faria+Chesapeake+Series+Gauges
-
I agree the look is right on and accuracy is close enough to see battery condition
I think it looks great
-
Trung,
Did you compare the www.tubes.ru 6H30PDR for $40 to the PartsConnexion version for $79? The one from Russia looks to have an older date code, but not sure if I am finding the correct code. Have about 40 hours on the Tubes.ru version so far.
I know the new 6H30PDR sounds better to me than the Sovtek or Cryoset Sovtek 6H30Pi. Just trying to see if the PC one is a step up from the Tubes.ru version.
-
^^^^^
I have not get any tube cost more than $50 yet.
The $79 DR tube is on my list. (year 1986)
:thumb:
-
Trung,
Thanks! Will be saving up for one to give it a try after I hear your experience with it. :D
-
The DR Supertube at Parts Connexion is now listed for $99.95. Market forces at work apparently.
-
Oh well, will stick with my www.tubes.ru 6H30P-DR version.
-
WoW
Just look at it last night at $79 :scratch:
-
I have a charging question. My buffer runs off of three 12 volt 7 ah batteries in parallel. What's the best way to connect my Ctek 800 charger? So far I've connected it to the first battery (pos and neg) and to the first and last battery (neg on first and pos on third). Is there a best configuration when using multiple batteries in parallel?
-
I have a charging question. My buffer runs off of three 12 volt 7 ah batteries in parallel. What's the best way to connect my Ctek 800 charger? So far I've connected it to the first battery (pos and neg) and to the first and last battery (neg on first and pos on third). Is there a best configuration when using multiple batteries in parallel?
Connect to one battery and leave the charger on all the time and do not disconnect the charger. Listen to music!
-
your last way,pos on first batt and neg third is best, the buffer should be connected the same way. Most batt chargers will put some noise into the system, by hooking up the charger on opposite side of batt bank as the buffer it
might help.
-
I wondered about noise from the AC trickle charge (although I haven't really noticed any). I'll give your suggestion a try and see what happens.
-
Ctek charger pluged in my battery 24/7 and I can't hear no noise at all.
:thumb:
-
I wondered about noise from the AC trickle charge (although I haven't really noticed any). I'll give your suggestion a try and see what happens.
I had a long conversation with the CTEK rep when I saw him. The charger does NOT induce any noise. Try it!
-
I have found the C-Tek chargers to be dead quiet. At least the first level or two of its cycle. My battery (100 amp hour) never gets low enough for a heavy charge from the charger.
-
In a flash of idiocy I apparently left my buffer on the last time I used it (Sunday?). The issue is that it is running on a Optima Yellow Top and the voltage was down to just below 5V when I found I had left it on. The batttery appears to be taking a charge, I am now over 12V with the charger connected, so I will let that continue to see if it will take a complete charge. My question is; will the low voltage supplied to the buffer have any affect on the buffer components? How about my 6H30 Pi tube? Anyone have to deal with this scenario?
Thanks,
Ed
-
The 6H30 draws 5.2 watts, but I have no idea if letting it drain the battery might cause a problem. How does it sound? I'm assuming you have the power switch in the 6 volt position as well. (Asks the guy who played his tube at 12 volts for half a day.) :oops:
-
I discharged my Optima Blue Top to about 8 volts after leaving my buffer running over night by mistake. I just turned it off and recharged the battery. Everything was fine.
The 6 volt regulator would stop regulating at below 8 volts, so the filament would be below its normal voltage level and current draw going down.
The HV supply for the tube probably has a cut off point as well.
I think I am going to install a power LED on mine for that reason.
-
Thanks for the replies guys. The battery appears to have taken a charge and the buffer is now playing without any obvious issues.
I think the power LED is a good idea!
Best,
Ed
-
I have one of the Dodd Audio battery powered tube amps also. If I leave it on too long, the green light on the front panel turns Red, and then it starts to beep.
-
My Dodd battery preamp does that with the front panel LED as well and has the alarm. The battery buffer does not have one.
It would be nice to have that on the buffer! :D
Will do the power on LED as an alternative. I think I know how to wire the LED to the standby/on switch to make it show both modes as using the battery.
-
I just bought a used Musical Fidelity X-DAC - the round barrel shaped one. In any case, just figured out that it wont work with the Dodd buffer. Probably does not have enough output voltage..right? So I thought I should route it through my Odyssey Tempest preamp then through the buffer but that doesn't work either. SHould the buffer come before or after the pre? It works fine when I bypass the buffer entirely.
-
I just bought a used Musical Fidelity X-DAC - the round barrel shaped one. In any case, just figured out that it wont work with the Dodd buffer. Probably does not have enough output voltage..right? So I thought I should rout it through my Odyssey Tempest preamp then through the buffer but that doesn't work either. SHould the buffer come before or after the pre? It works fine when I bypass the buffer entirely.
No one is chiming in, so I will venture an opinion. I'm always thought it was one or the other (buffer or pre). To have the simplest replay chain, you go with the buffer. At least that's the way I understand how one approaches this type of setup.
-
I thought most dac/cd players had a 2 volt output and that should be fine with the Dodd'
I have a Jasmine phono and a Sony cd player that have plenty of output.
If you must use the pre I would put the buffer after the pre, I would set the volume of the pre at three quater to full volume, then you use the buffer volume control only.
-
I tried using the buffer after the pre and played with both volumes. Even with both volumes maxed I can barely hear anything. I am beginning to wonder if the input on the buffer that I am using is bad. I will try switching that when I get home tonight.
-
I feel like a real dummy now :oops:. It seems that there is something wrong with the third input on my buffer. Since this is the first time I used that input I did not notice this problem before. I hate to mess with Gary's handiwork so I will just wait until he is back to full strength and see what I need to do.
-
^^^^^
Send the buffer to me, I will be happy to help.
-
^^^^^
Send the buffer to me, I will be happy to help.
Trung found the wire that I had soldered incorrectly. I searched for hours and hours trying to find my mistake :banghead:. Your a good guy, Trung.
-
TrungT,
Appreciate the offer. I may call you to see if I can fix it myself. I may call you one of these days. I have your number form a previous message. Thanks.
-
I'm usually staying up late, so no problem when you call. :wink:
-
Hey Trung,
Thanks for all your help. My buff is working...John
-
John :thumb:
You are welcome, glad to help.
-
Just looked at the buffer page on Gary's website. He has a quote from one of my posts on AC (even though he has me listed as UPS1 rather than USP1)!
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=88985.msg883899#msg883899 (ftp://http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=88985.msg883899#msg883899)
I am so thrilled!
-
Does anyone have a link to a diagram or instructions on how to use diodes to prevent noise on DC lines? I am about to hook up something on the same battery as the buffer and I don't want to feed it any noise...
Thanks!
Ted
-
Bare in mind that a diode in line will drop, 0.7V. doesn't seem like much but now you're down to 11.3V. If you hook it up to something like a tube stage, it might want the full 12V. For something like a DAC that might only need 9V or so, hey give it a go...John
-
Well, I would like to keep the Buffer line as is. I thought I could integrate the noise Isolation circuit into the power cord I am building for the linux music server. I needs between 7 and 20V, so I am good on the drop, I just want to make sure it will work before I do it ;)
Ted
-
Ted,
Here was the original idea I had for using the diode and cap to possibly work as a noise block.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=38922)
I have not tested it at all or figured out a cap value for bypassing the noise. The cap would value would depend on the load noise frequency range.
-
I think I am going to build a cheap version of the cable and see what it does/what noise is there. If I want to block noise from the Alix from coming BACK to the battery, does the diode still go on the positive side of the cord? Should I just choose something like the 0.1uF/50VDC Cap to try out? If it is on the PC it can only help and not hurt, correct? Any recommendations on the specific cap?
Either one of these?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-830
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=020-1620
-
You would wire it as shown in the diagram to keep noise from going back from the Alix to the battery.
The diode should be at least a 50V/6Amp rated device if the Alix uses less than that amount of current. At 12VDC that is 72watts max. If that is not enough try a higher current rated diode.
The cap should work at high frequencies for and switching noise. I would use film caps like polypropylene rated at least 50VDC. Parallel a 0.01uF, 0.1uF, 1.0uF cap with a 1000uF/50V electrolytic as a test. The positive terminal of the electrolytic should go to the + side of the diode in the diagram. Panasonic caps from Digi-Key should be a great start. Panasonic makes polypropylene and electrolytics.
This is where the experiment should begin.
-
Ahh, so use a small value polypropylene bypass (0.01-1uF) with a large value electrolytic? Then, the diode will be in series with the Alix on the positive/input side, And the cap should run parallel to the Alix starting on the input to the diode, correct? Sorry, I am relatively new to this ;)
I am also just looking at getting a BatteryBUSS :oops:
-
I am sure the BatteryBUSS will be better than the simple filter I posted.
-
I am sure the BatteryBUSS will be better than the simple filter I posted.
Yup.
Dave
-
Can anyone recommend an inexpensive high quality AGM battery source?
The better prices I've seen had some of the worst shipping prices...local sources are all quite a bit more expensive, unfortunately.
-
Try Arizona Battery.
-
How big a battery do you want?
-
Try to search your local Craigslist.
-
Nothing good on CL locally... I want at least 10 AH, bigger the better, just trying to find really good value...preferably around 30-40$
-
Here are some from Amazon under your cap. If you are an Amazon Prime Member, they ship free. If not, let me know and we can work something out...
Ted
You could get 2 or 3 of these
http://www.amazon.com/UB645-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B0006N61RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/UB12180-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B001DL7D1O/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/UB1280-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B0009GIKNE/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-5
Again, maybe 2
http://www.amazon.com/UB1250-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B001DL9IBC/ref=sr_1_6?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-6
http://www.amazon.com/D5744-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B001DLAO0Q/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-9
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If you don't want to pay shipping, you might be able to find what you need at Batteries Plus. You can go here to find out if there is a store near your location.
http://www.batteriesplus.com/
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Man, I just switched from the DIY Buffer w/ plat bypass caps (somewhat broken in) and a VERY nice NOS tube ($120), to a brand new Buffer w/ plat bypass caps and a NOS 6H30DR ($70). With NO hours on it, the new one sounds better. I can't wait for it to break-in! These 6H30 tubes are no joke!!!!
Ted
-
Welcome to the 6H30P-DR club! :thumb:
-
^^^^^
Got one more HOOKED on 6H30DR :thumb:
Wish more come to The 6H30DR club :wink:
-
I found an instant improvement top to bottom with the 6H30DR tube. Surprised that it was that noticeable.
-
I favor the 6H30-DR tube as well but am always looking for new experiences. :thumb: Has anyone tried another tube they really like with the Dodd buffer?
I'm also curious about what amps owners are running with the buffer. I'm using a couple of old Outlaw Model 200 Monoblocks (300 watts each into 4 ohms). That sound fine to me, but again, I'm wondering if "something else" might be even better.
-
^^^I really like my DIY Class D Amp, also running on Battery supply :thumb:
-
X2 Class D. Currently building a class D- Dodd tube buffer on same chassis. Running on batt.
-
For the Class D fans, are most of you using the SDS-254? What mods do you favor for this amp?
-
Replace the volume (input level) controls with high quality resistors (naked vishays are my current favorite).
Really bumps the sound of the amp up a level without jeopardizing the warranty.
N
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Ted-
Thanks for the buffer..."its amazing!" Gary ungraded the heatsink to run 6H30 so I'm good to go. Bought the Class D SDS-254 with battery option, finished painting the Dodd box today and can't wait to get it in the system.
8)
-
khill
Welcome to AC
:thumb:
-
^^^^^
Got one more HOOKED on 6H30DR :thumb:
Wish more come to The 6H30DR club :wink:
I'm soon to be in the club Trung :D
BTW, for all of you out there that don't know it, Trung is one hell of a top notch Guy! If you are on the fence about the Buffer as I was and nervous and un-educated about the entire battery set-up, he will hook you up, answer all your questions, and clearly goes above and beyond. Thanks Trung for the awesome help :thumb:
-
^^^^^
You'r welcome.
Glad to help.
Spread the world :thumb:
-
Ted-
Thanks for the buffer..."its amazing!" Gary ungraded the heatsink to run 6H30 so I'm good to go. Bought the Class D SDS-254 with battery option, finished painting the Dodd box today and can't wait to get it in the system.
8)
Wow Kregg, somehow I missed this! Congrats and I am glad it continues to play wonderfully for you! Hopefully the box made it there so you can get the amp going as well!
TedI'm soon to be in the club Trung :D
BTW, for all of you out there that don't know it, Trung is one hell of a top notch Guy! If you are on the fence about the Buffer as I was and nervous and un-educated about the entire battery set-up, he will hook you up, answer all your questions, and clearly goes above and beyond. Thanks Trung for the awesome help :thumb:
I agree, he is amazing and I would not have some pretty cool toys without him!
-
Trung helped me debug my second buffer and it is up and running! He and Gary are Da Man! :thumb:
Next is trying a Sure Electronics Class D 100wpc stereo module from PE with the buffer and hear what it is for $44 + $50 for the PS. If that works it is time for the battery power supply for the amp!
-
Y'all need to stop "hi-jack" the thread cause of me :wink:
:thumb:
-
I'm soon to be in the club Trung :D
BTW, for all of you out there that don't know it, Trung is one hell of a top notch Guy! If you are on the fence about the Buffer as I was and nervous and un-educated about the entire battery set-up, he will hook you up, answer all your questions, and clearly goes above and beyond. Thanks Trung for the awesome help :thumb:
True story. A gentleman and he has been Gary's right hand man for a long time. Not to mention the fact that he is one of the funniest people (humor, not odd :lol: ) you will ever meet.
Why else would we name one of our products after him?
:D
Dave
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Dave,
Very Cool! :thumb:
-
I'm soon to be in the club Trung :D
BTW, for all of you out there that don't know it, Trung is one hell of a top notch Guy! If you are on the fence about the Buffer as I was and nervous and un-educated about the entire battery set-up, he will hook you up, answer all your questions, and clearly goes above and beyond. Thanks Trung for the awesome help :thumb:
I second that x10! Trung saved my bacon after my father and I managed to "almost" build a working model. :green:
-
Dave,
Very Cool! :thumb:
Yes, he is! 8)
:lol:
Dave
-
I've been impressed by a couple of the DIY battery enclosures I've seen on this thread. Lacking real woodworking skills, I decided to convert an old storage box into something that would hide my batteries and charger. The inside of the box needs a little wire management, but that will have to wait for another day. :)
PS. Trung rules. He is extremely generous with his time and friendship. He is certainly a plus for this thread.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=46726)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=46727)
-
^^^^^
Great ideal, really like the look , :thumb: WFP (Wife Factor Plus) .
Dave - "right hand"? more likely a "right leg" :wink:
Glad to help and making great friends while at it. :thumb:
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^^^^^
Got one more HOOKED on 6H30DR :thumb:
Wish more come to The 6H30DR club :wink:
Trung,
For those of us who own a Virtue Audio Sensation integrated amp with the fabulous Dodd tube buffer already built-in ...
What is needed for us to join the 6H30DR club ? :green:
I sent something to Gary some time ago about this, but obviously the timing couldn't have been worse ... :cry:
-
^^^^^
From what I understanding:
(I'm sure more to it, but just few thing on the top of my head) :scratch:
- Not much room inside the Sensation for bigger tube (taller)
- 6H30 tube draw almost 1A, so it does require a bigger voltage regulator.
- 6H30 tube and voltage regulator will generate more heat.
- More chance the Sensation pick up more RF
- difference circuit for 6V and (or) 12V
-
Trung-
I finally got the 6H30 worked out...liking what I'm hearing! Went to Gary's this morning to see if the tube was lighting up the way it was supposed to..."I thought it was bright"
:scratch:
Hi Ted-
Box made it here...now I have a box for another project.
:D
Any suggestions out there for a cheap DAC? I know Trung, you keep telling me Squeezebox Duet. I don't know if I want to go that route since I'm a Foobar guy!
-
Try a Twisted Pear Audio Opus DAC kit.
www.twistedpearaudio.com (http://www.twistedpearaudio.com)
-
Any suggestions out there for a cheap DAC?
Foobar sounds very good when used with the AQvox ASIO driver. I didn't like paying $120.00 for it, but it was worth it on a PC based machine. http://www.aqvox.com/Asio-USB-Audio-installation-e.htm (http://www.aqvox.com/Asio-USB-Audio-installation-e.htm)
We've been listening to DACs over here in Albuquerque and the best inexpensive DACs that we have found are the HRT ( http://www.highresolutiontechnologies.com/products/ (http://www.highresolutiontechnologies.com/products/) ) Music Streamer II+ ($349.00)and the Pro ($499.00). The II+ is out of stock at distributors right now. It is being upgraded and repackaged.
I had great hopes for the Arcam rDAC but it just doesn't cut it :(
YMMV
Dave
-
I've been very happy with my Pop Pulse 1796. It's 24/196 capable and available online for $269.
http://www.audio-magus.com/Pop_Pulse_PCM1796_MkII_DAC_p/109407.htm
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I was considering putting black knobs on my buffer and was considering restaining the faceplate to get a closer match to my black amplifier. Anyone know where to get black knobs that are a drop in replacement? Thank you,
David
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Gary Dodd makes and sells knobs for the buffer.
http://doddaudio.com/diy.aspx
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I feel like a fool that I didn't see that on his website. Sorry for the stupid question!
David
-
I feel like a fool that I didn't see that on his website. Sorry for the stupid question!
David
Yep...mine are solid black directly from him and look great.
-
+1 for the black knobs from Gary!
-
I finally got my buffer up and running, parts been on the shelf for a couple of months while I deal with life.
I find the buffer a real eye/ear opener. How can such a simple device sound so good. But I have also been listening to the WarpSpeed LDR attenuator. Which has presented me with the purist sound I have ever heard in my system. So the obvious question is to combine them both. Has any one done this?
I am using two 7ah SLA's in parallel with 15000uf cap for power
-
^^^^^
:thumb:
Any picture? :wink:
-
I finally got my buffer up and running, parts been on the shelf for a couple of months while I deal with life.
I find the buffer a real eye/ear opener. How can such a simple device sound so good. But I have also been listening to the WarpSpeed LDR attenuator. Which has presented me with the purist sound I have ever heard in my system. So the obvious question is to combine them both. Has any one done this?
I am using two 7ah SLA's in parallel with 15000uf cap for power
That is an interesting proposition!!!
-
I've been impressed by a couple of the DIY battery enclosures I've seen on this thread. Lacking real woodworking skills
The good news is you don't need woodworking skills. http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=90845.0
-
I'm going to get a PI Audio buss for my system and wanted to know what the max voltage that a Dodd buffer can handle. I'm building a class d amp and buffer on the same chassis,the class d's will be running off 15 volts,will that be to high for the buffer?
-
Why not just stick to 12 volts for the buffer and class d amp like others have done?
-
TrungT
everything is just breadboarded at this point.
I am going to try to combine the warpspeed and dodd this weekend maybe some pictures if it does not look to bad
-
^^^^^
Please let us know how it sound if the LS work out.
Mike - The relays on the Dodd buffer only rating at 12V relay, you may have to look up the spec. of the relay to find out what's the max voltage for it, the voltage Reg. should be fine if you use the 6V tube, can't use 12V tube at all if even the relays handle 15V.
-
Because at 12volt I had to send two power supply back to Tom to adjust because they would only turn on if I had just charged my batteries. Also my understanding is they will sound better at higher voltage.
-
If you hook up a CTEK smart charger it will always keep your batteries charged.
-
I will have a 200 amph battery bank and after I rewire to 24v and will be using solar to charge it, also I don't think the CTEK would work.
Trung: I'm not using the circuit board were I think the relay is, see pic of buffer and class d amp. If you see anything that doesn't look right please let me know. Thanks
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=47912)
-
Mike
Looking good, should work with 15V on that setup.
If you can snap a hi res. picture at the Sonicap and email me, I can double check to make sure.
:thumb:
-
Mike
Very cool build, I have a Dodd buffer into a dual mono sds-254 set up.
Will you be using an external pre for volume control?
-
Trung here are a couple pics:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=47926)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=47927)
My system is Mac pro and Apogee Ensemble 8 channel Dac using the Spatial program which let me control the vol using the I tunes to control the analog vol on the dac, all other pre function ,EQ etc are done on the Mac. I plan to build another buffer amp setup and bi amp my system, which is why I would prefer to only having one power cord feeding each amp and buffer as I would like to put them in the speakers.
Mike
-
I recently replaced the stock pot in the dodd buffer kit with an LDR from Warpspeed. The improvement in sound was very obvious. I did have a problem with the stock JJ ECC803. The sound became distorted when I was playing at max volume. This distortion disappeared went I substituted a Russian 6N1P and switched to 6v operation.
Any guesses to why the 12 volt tube distorted and the 6v did not?
-
Any more info on the LDR from Warpspeed?
-
Any more info on the LDR from Warpspeed?
I've been looking at it. It has been getting a LOT of great press.
Dave
-
You might have a chat with Uriah Dailey as I think he is somewhere in Texas. His flavor is called "Ligher Note".
http://www.buildanamp.com/addtocart.sc?productId=14&quantity=1 (http://www.buildanamp.com/addtocart.sc?productId=14&quantity=1)
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Solid/DIY-Lightspeed-Passive-Attenuator/ (http://diyaudioprojects.com/Solid/DIY-Lightspeed-Passive-Attenuator/)
-
You might have a chat with Uriah Dailey as I think he is somewhere in Texas. His flavor is called "Ligher Note".
http://www.buildanamp.com/addtocart.sc?productId=14&quantity=1 (http://www.buildanamp.com/addtocart.sc?productId=14&quantity=1)
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Solid/DIY-Lightspeed-Passive-Attenuator/ (http://diyaudioprojects.com/Solid/DIY-Lightspeed-Passive-Attenuator/)
AWESOME!!!
Thanks, Tom.
Dave
-
These should work great if properly buffered with a unity gain stage. There are other ones out there using jfet buffers, but the Dodd battery tube should be a nice match too. Lots of quirks to be aware of though, such as they don't quite fully mute at full minimum, differences in linearity, etc. In theory it beats a set of wiping contacts any day.
-
These should work great if properly buffered with a unity gain stage. There are other ones out there using jfet buffers, but the Dodd battery tube should be a nice match too. Lots of quirks to be aware of though, such as they don't quite fully mute at full minimum, differences in linearity, etc. In theory it beats a set of wiping contacts any day.
Well, we'll see (hear). I just ordered the board and matched LDRs. It'll work great in the Buffer, I'm sure.
Thanks for the find. :thumb:
Dave
-
Well, we'll see (hear). I just ordered the board and matched LDRs. It'll work great in the Buffer, I'm sure.
Thanks for the find. :thumb:
Dave
Curious DIYers will be following your progress Dave!
Best,
Ed
-
Humm .... I need to find my LDR kit, I got it long time ago.
Where's it?
:scratch:
-
Uriah is from Houston. I was over at his place a few weeks ago and he is a great guy. He knows a lot about LDRs and how they work. He has a small clip on U tube of him showing his Lighter note. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r56F17DGrQY
I'll see if he might stop by this forum.
Robert
-
Uriah is from Houston. I was over at his place a few weeks ago and he is a great guy. He know a lot about LDRs and how they work. He has a small clip on U tube of him showing his Lighter note. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r56F17DGrQY
I'll see if he might stop by this forum.
Robert
COOL! I like audio zanies like me :lol: People that figure out a better way are always on my "groovy people" list.
Dave
-
There is no problem with the Warpspeed tracking at low volume. It uses a multiturn precision pot. I have no problems going from dead silence and tracking at low levels are very good.
The main problem is all the voltage control stuff is potted(not the LDRs) so he is keeping some stuff private.
-
Any progress using LDR's for volume control of the Dodd buffer? I use Uriah's Lighter Note kit and would love to try it in front of a Dodd buffer.
-
The main problem is all the voltage control stuff is potted(not the LDRs) so he is keeping some stuff private.
And that is a "problem" because...???
Dave
-
Any progress using LDR's for volume control of the Dodd buffer? I use Uriah's Lighter Note kit and would love to try it in front of a Dodd buffer.
Uriah has been on vacation and has just gotten back home. He'll be shipping mine next week and I'll know soon thereafter.
Dave
-
From reading the thread on the LDR volume control, they are very heat sensitive.
Need to keep it away from the tube when you build it.
-
Uriah has been on vacation and has just gotten back home. He'll be shipping mine next week and I'll know soon thereafter.
Dave
Nice! Let us know how you get along.
-
Now Playing:
Warpspeed and In-line Dodd buffer. WOW :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49061)
-
I'm not surprised :D I've been running my classdaudio amp with Uriah's Lighter Note and a Salas DCB1 buffer. 'WOW' was my reaction too. I don't have a single tube left in my system though, which is why I'm curious about the Dodd buffer.
-
From reading the thread on the LDR volume control, they are very heat sensitive.
Need to keep it away from the tube when you build it.
Especially with the 6H30... it is a little furnace, huh?
Dave
-
Dave,
That is what I am thinking since you have both the 6H30 and regulator dissipating a lot of power.
Attaching the LDR board to the I/O board at the back of the chassis is about as far away as you can get in my buffer. Maybe putting it in an aluminum tube to keep the temperature stable would be good.
-
Dave,
That is what I am thinking since you have both the 6H30 and regulator dissipating a lot of power.
Attaching the LDR board to the I/O board at the back of the chassis is about as far away as you can get in my buffer. Maybe putting it in an aluminum tube to keep the temperature stable would be good.
Rich, since the LDR board is only 40mm x 60mm I'm going to mount it on the back exterior between the DC input and the I/O's to get it close to the input RCA's. I'll put a small cover over it with a DC power plug so I can power it with the regulated 5VDC from the BatteryBUSS.
Too easy and away from the heat in the Dodd Buffer.
Dave
-
A kit with just a tube buffer would be super cool.
-
Dave,
Sounds good. Looking forward to your results. :thumb:
-
Now Playing:
Warpspeed and In-line Dodd buffer. WOW :thumb:
Love that instrumentation knob, Trung! You gotta share us some more of your thoughts... :dance:
It's nice to know the W'speed is gaining some fans in this forum too.
-
Trung,
I'm curious to know if you put the Warpspeed before or after the buffer. Would like to hear your impressions if you tried it in both positions.
-
Are there any completed Dodd Buffers on or near Long Island? It is supposed to be a good match for my amplifier, but after deciding I prefer my amp without a Shindo in front of it, I'm a bit apprehensive to start the kit without giving it a try first.
-
Warpspeed sounding very nice on it own, quiet, dynamic, detail.
Mac Mini > DIY Wolfson DAC > Warpspeed > Dodd in-line buffer > Class D amp > Dunlavy SCIV
All battery powered.
Basicly, Warpspeed replaced the analog pot, now you have a nice clean sound, well covered from high to low = Best sounding
:green: :green:
-
Spend more time with the Warpspeed and inline Dodd buffer.
To me:
Warpspeed > Inline Dodd buffer or Inline Dodd buffer > Warpspeed
No difference :thumb:
-
I am still liking the dodd buffer with the warpspeed on the input side, i have not tried on the out because I thought the output impedance would change as you changed the control and I think you want the lowest output impedance you can get going into your power amp. I am using a 6v russian tube which is working much better that the stock 12v jj.
-
Rich, since the LDR board is only 40mm x 60mm I'm going to mount it on the back exterior between the DC input and the I/O's to get it close to the input RCA's. I'll put a small cover over it with a DC power plug so I can power it with the regulated 5VDC from the BatteryBUSS.
Too easy and away from the heat in the Dodd Buffer.
Dave
Dave,
From the measurments you listed above it sounds like you went with the Light Speed not the Lighter Note, is this correct? According to Uriah the LN is 2.5"x7.5".
Have you put yours together yet? If so, what did you think of the sound?
Thanks,
Ed
-
Dave,
From the measurments you listed above it sounds like you went with the Light Speed not the Lighter Note, is this correct? According to Uriah the LN is 2.5"x7.5".
Have you put yours together yet? If so, what did you think of the sound?
Thanks,
Ed
Ed, I just ordered the bare LDR board and LDR's. Uriah was on vacation for a week or two. I got them last week and I am accumulation pieces and parts to build it. The board is 40mm x 60mm and will fit on the back of the Buffer easily.
I ahve been swamped with medical issues and now orders and I'm paddling' as fast as I can. I'll keep you posted.
Dave
-
what's a warpspeed?
-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/178839-warpspeed-optocoupler-volume-control-kit.html (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/178839-warpspeed-optocoupler-volume-control-kit.html)
-
Pardon my ignorance, but it's a fancy volume control?
How and why are people implementing this?
-
Yes, it is a volume control.
It is implemented with Light Dependent Resistors (optocouplers) and is supposed to sound better than a standard volume control. From the initial reviews from Trung and others it does.
One of the main points is there are no wiping contacts in this circuit like a standard volume control would have.
-
Ed, I just ordered the bare LDR board and LDR's. Uriah was on vacation for a week or two. I got them last week and I am accumulation pieces and parts to build it. The board is 40mm x 60mm and will fit on the back of the Buffer easily.
I ahve been swamped with medical issues and now orders and I'm paddling' as fast as I can. I'll keep you posted.
Dave
Dave keep us posted on your progress as I am very interested in your thoughts. Don't forget to get your camera out along the way.
Robert
-
I see that Gary is now offering a lower cost buffer kit with one input and output. I think this would be a great option for someone who has been wanting a unit but not able to pull the trigger.
-
Looks like an in line tube buffer (no volume controls or anything) that can be put in line with anything.
-
Dave keep us posted on your progress as I am very interested in your thoughts. Don't forget to get your camera out along the way.
Robert
Will do. I think I have my Brownie around here somewhere :lol:
Dave
-
Looks like an in line tube buffer (no volume controls or anything) that can be put in line with anything.
That would be a perfect application for the LDR type VC. Good job, Gary! :thumb:
Dave
-
That would be a perfect application for the LDR type VC. Good job, Gary! :thumb:
Dave
OK now don't sell out before I can get the funds to get one! :lol:
-
Man, spent all the money on the top level Buffer, and now I want to try out the inline with a warpspeed :duh:
I don't have a place for it.
-
Man, spent all the money on the top level Buffer, and now I want to try out the inline with a warpspeed :duh:
I don't have a place for it.
Yeah, I'm ordering one of the kist so I can keep my Buffer pristine...
Dave
-
So ... If I only had one amp and only needed one output, would an ideal situation be this warpspeed into the new simpler buffer that has no volume, into my amp?
-
^^^^^
Yes. That would be an ideal :thumb:
or
You can add the buffer between your SS pre and amp, to get a tube sound.
-
Trung I have an Emotiva Xda-1 dac with built in volume control. Would I just turn that all the way up? So xda1 into warpspeed into basic buffer into amp.
Also, not a lot of info on the basic buffer. I didn't notice whether or not it came with a tube, and said nothing about chassis or PS for it
-
The new buffer on the Dodd Audio website does not have a volume control. It is just a buffer.
You would use the DAC's volume control as normal.
The Buffers are designed to run on a 12VDC SLA or AGM battery. Just use the correct battery charger for the style battery you choose.
Update:
If you have a Warpspeed, turn the volume all the way up on the DAC.
-
Here is the link to the new In-line buffer on Gary's website:
http://doddaudio.com/forsaleitem.aspx (http://doddaudio.com/forsaleitem.aspx)
-
Didn't see a tube listed there in the ingredients. And I'm assuming there is a chassis for it somewhere?
-
Provide your own tube and chasis. They are not listed on the parts list.
-
Looks like it's been updated. That thing looks perfect for me....
Looks like it comes with a chassis??? Oh never mind, that's a fully built inline buffer.... Wow, that might be exactly what I need... I think I need to PM Trung.
Why doesn't Gary Dodd have his own circle? Makes no sense to me.
-
Once you source a decent looking case (that won't be silkscreened) and add the parts that it doesn't look like are included with the kit (RCA jacks, switch and Neutrik power jack), I think I would just go with the built unit.
The kit looks like the ticket if you are going to build it into another component (DAC, preamp, amp).
Steve
-
I'm definitely interested. I'm spending a whole lot of money (for me) on speakers over the next several months (buy MMG's and then have them modified) so this is potentially the next upgrade after that.
But it is nice to see that I have what appears to be a very nice preamp solution in the Dodd inline with Warpspeed for a great price. My Dac already has multiple inputs.
I've spent some time oogling kilo-kilo dollar stuff I will never afford so it's nice that we have less expensive alternatives that are very highly regarded and considered at-that-level or near it. Just not as pretty.
-
I'm definitely interested. I'm spending a whole lot of money (for me) on speakers over the next several months (buy MMG's and then have them modified) so this is potentially the next upgrade after that.
But it is nice to see that I have what appears to be a very nice preamp solution in the Dodd inline with Warpspeed for a great price. My Dac already has multiple inputs.
I've spent some time oogling kilo-kilo dollar stuff I will never afford so it's nice that we have less expensive alternatives that are very highly regarded and considered at-that-level or near it. Just not as pretty.
Dude, you can't hear "PRETTY". :lol:
Dave
-
And for that very reason way, far far cooler looking :green:
-
Here is the link to the new In-line buffer on Gary's website:
http://doddaudio.com/forsaleitem.aspx (http://doddaudio.com/forsaleitem.aspx)
Would this install between preamp and amp in an integrated? I'm really curious about the buffer and this inline version looks like it would be easy to implement.
-
are there any specs for current draw with various tubes in the standard buffer.
I have searched a bit but can not find any?
-
If you're looking for something to follow an active crossover, have a look at the Aikido Cathode Follower (just google)
-
6H30 draw most current, ~1A
That's only data I know of.
Maximum Ratings
Plate dissipation: 4 watts
Cathode current (avg.): 40 mA
Cathode current (pulse): 2-3 A !!!!
Max DC plate voltage: 250V
Heater-to-cathode voltage: 400v
Inter-electrode Capacitance
Input : 6.3 pF
Output : 2.4 pF
AC Characteristics
Amplification factor (µ): 15
Plate resistance (rp): 2000 ohms
Transconductance (Gm): 7.6 mA/Voltage
Heater
Voltage: 6.3V
Current: 0.825 A
-
Would this install between preamp and amp in an integrated? I'm really curious about the buffer and this inline version looks like it would be easy to implement.
I would think the idea of the kit is for one of the following:
1. Build your own stand alone buffer between a preamp and an amplifier
2. Add a buffer to an DIY amplifier
3. Add a buffer with volume control of your choice to a DIY amplifier
4. Add a buffer to a DIY preamplifier
But probably not to add a buffer between the preamp and amplifier sections of an off the shelf integrated, although if you can manage it, more power to you. I have not taken an exhaustive survey of integrated amplifiers, but generally I have found that there isn't a lot of room in there.
-
I am thinking this might be a fun fay to make a very cool preamp. Basically this buffer, a warpspeed volume control, and some type of DIY DAC with multiple inputs...
My biggest problem is figuring out where I would use it :duh:
-
I would think the idea of the kit is for one of the following:
1. Build your own stand alone buffer between a preamp and an amplifier
2. Add a buffer to an DIY amplifier
3. Add a buffer with volume control of your choice to a DIY amplifier
4. Add a buffer to a DIY preamplifier
But probably not to add a buffer between the preamp and amplifier sections of an off the shelf integrated, although if you can manage it, more power to you. I have not taken an exhaustive survey of integrated amplifiers, but generally I have found that there isn't a lot of room in there.
Thanks for your thoughts. I mistakenly assumed that because there were preamp outs on my Musical Fidelity A3, that there would be amp inputs...not!
I guess the plug & play method of doing this would require separate amp.
-
praedet,
Trung's post #990 has exactly that setup.
The plexiglass case houses the DAC.
-
Who do you think my inspiration i ;) I plan to do it in one case though...
-
TrungT was nice enough to loan me his personal Dodd buffer for a week to try with my Decware Torii amp, which I have been having some difficulty finding a proper match in a preamplifier for.
IVe trie some higher end stuff like Shindo and Tubeguru, but it has been the inexpensive Dodd which has fared best in this system.
Comparing it to the Torii naked or with the Shimdo, the Torii does a great job in increasing sound stage width and depth. It mains a very clear, coherent transparency and liquidity which the Shindo doesn't quite match with this amp. Tone is fatter and the sound is nice with the shindo, but it's just faster with better flow with the Dodd.
The Dodd also offers an increase in apparent detail. I am not saying this buffer is superior to a Shindo and I generally prefer active preamps, but with this particular, difficulty to match up, amp I prefer it.
It was fun playing around with this buffer and my only gripe over the week I sent with it is that the battery died once mid listening session.
Other than that the kit is a screaming value and I am contemplating purchasing a Dodd of own. An inexpensive option compared to shindo.
-
^^^^^
:thumb:
"battery died once"
100AH battery will fix that problem :wink:
-
^^^^^
:thumb:
"battery died once"
100AH battery will fix that problem :wink:
:nono: Leaving the battery on the charger does.
-
Will a 6N6P work in the Dodd Buffer? http://lampizator.eu/UPGRADE/upgrade%20noval%20tubes%20to%206H6P.html
-
^^^^^
Yes, It will, but 6H30DR sound a lot better.
-
Agree, the 6H30DR takes the Dodd up a notch for sure.
-
^^^^^
Yes, It will, but 6H30DR sound a lot better.
Does anyone know what the output impedance is of the 6H30DR?
-
^^^^^
I can let you borrow 6H30DR to try.
Let me know.
:thumb:
-
The output impedance should be lower than the 6922 tube with the 6H30P-DR.
The 6922 was around 56 ohms output impedance.
-
Could the basic buffer be upgraded to the original buffer down the line?
-
^^^^^
Yes, basic kit 1 input and 1 put can.
-
How much play time are you guys getting out of your batteries and is there a battery in particular you recommend? I was told I could use two in series to double my time, but I'm not sure how that would work... would it take twice as long to charge?
Any info is appreciated.
-
Buy the ctek smart charger and stop worrying about battery run time! You can leave the charger connected at all times.
-
Buy the ctek smart charger and stop worrying about battery run time! You can leave the charger connected at all times.
+1
-
Agreed. Originally I was running off a 32 AH SLA battery (or 26, I don't remember for sure) After a few hours of listening, the battery would barely drop. I have a CTEK and was never able to hear it, so I ended up leaving it on.
Now I run the Buffer, a Class D amp, an Alix PC server and a V-link USB to SPDIF off the same Kinetik HCA1400 battery with a CTEK always attached. I have not had ANY problems when listening up to 6 hours at a time...
Ted
-
It does have the CTEK. I'm borrowing (and likely buying) this unit from Trung. I borrowed it a month or so ago and remember it died on me twice mid listening session in the week I had it. One time I wasn't sure the Ctek was setup right but the other I think was...
If I can get a full day's use out of it, that is plenty. It will just charge over night... otherwise I'd like to add another battery to the mix. I'm in a house with a todler where I don't get much time to listen and kind of turn on my stereo when I get home and take my 30 minutes here and there when I can until bedtime.
-
Make sure the CTek charger set mode to snowflake icon (AGM battery)
(http://www.autosportcatalog.com/file_center/files/ctek/ctek2-big.jpg)
-
I played mine for three days once and it never came close to dying with the Ctek charger on the entire time. I think my battery is the same size as Trung's btw......
-
Ok how do I order one? Can I add plat bypass caps? What tube should i get and where the DR is outa my price range for now.
-
You can start with 6N1P
see your Pm
-
just put up a Ctek U800 for sale, more recommended for 14ah batterys, will charge agm's
-
Vinnie Rossi, Red Wine Audio, runs everything on batteries. He's a super nice and helpful guy. I know he wouldn't mind sharing advice regarding SLA's or whatever and the best options for charging.
Just a thought... :D
-
Sorry for the ignorant question, what's the difference between an SLA and AGM battery? Can't you run components interchangeably on either?
-
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38537
-
Google:
Absorbent glass mat (AGM) is a class of VRLA battery in which the electrolyte is absorbed into a mat of fine glass fibers. The plates in an AGM battery may be flat like a wet cell lead-acid battery in a rectangular case. In cylindrical AGMs, the plates are thin and wound, like most consumer disposable and rechargeable cells, into spirals so they are also sometimes referred to as spiral wound. Their unique (for lead-acid chemistries) construction also allows for the lead in their plates to be purer as they no longer need to support their own weight as in traditional cells. Their internal resistance is lower than traditional cells due to plate proximity and the pure lead plates have lower resistivity, they handle higher temperatures better, and self-discharge more slowly.
These batteries are often referred to as sealed lead-acid (SLA) batteries due to their non-leaking containers.
Their specific power is very good and they can be charged and discharged quite rapidly. They are often used in high performance electric vehicles due to their high power density. An AGM battery is a lead-acid electric storage battery that:
-is sealed using special pressure valves and should never be opened.
-is completely maintenance-free.*
-has all of its electrolyte absorbed in separators consisting of a sponge-like mass of matted glass fibers.
-uses a recombination reaction to prevent the escape of hydrogen and oxygen gases normally lost in a flooded lead-acid battery (particularly in deep cycle applications).
-is non-spillable, and therefore can be operated in virtually any position. However, upside-down installation is not recommended.
-
Anybody noticed the new "thing" that is coming?
"New Dodd Audio Remote LDR" (http://doddaudio.com/default.aspx)
I had been thinking of making my own combination of a Warspeed (LDR) for volume control and an inline buffer with high-end caps and resistors to try to max out the capability, but now this has me in a wait-and-see mode...
-
X2 :thumb:
I really would like it to have remote volume control!
-
There is also a new pre-amp based on the buffer design that will give you 18db of gain. It sounds just like the buffer but with a little more dynamics. It is a perfect solution for anyone that can't get away with a passive buffer design because they need the gain.
We used on of these on Sunday in our room at RMAF and it was outstanding.
-
^^^So, as a relative newbie to the audio realm, if I really like my Buffer and I want to add a second one, should I get a preamp this time?
-
There is also a new pre-amp based on the buffer design that will give you 18db of gain. It sounds just like the buffer but with a little more dynamics. It is a perfect solution for anyone that can't get away with a passive buffer design because they need the gain.
We used on of these on Sunday in our room at RMAF and it was outstanding.
Is that determined by the type of amplification you have in your equipment chain? Just curious.
-
Is that determined by the type of amplification you have in your equipment chain? Just curious.
It depends on the input impedance of the amp, the input sensitivity, the amount of gain needed to drive it, and the output impedance of your source.
At RMAF the big Reference Line amp that we used on Sunday needed some drive and the new pre-amp matched with it excellently.
-
It depends on the input impedance of the amp, the input sensitivity, the amount of gain needed to drive it, and the output impedance of your source.
At RMAF the big Reference Line amp that we used on Sunday needed some drive and the new pre-amp matched with it excellently.
What do you consider the average input impedance of a passive friendly amplifier? Thanks.
-
whats up guys? IMO around 50Kohms as a minimum,100k much better. The passive will work with lower input mpedanes, but it will be limited somewhere sonically in our hearing range.
Yes, I should have the circuit boards for the new preamp and the remote controlled LDR volume control. A build up and some testing then I will announce the availability and the pricing on both items. I will probably offer both in kit form of some sorts. Stay tuned
Gary
-
Great to hear from you and know you doing well. Thanks very much for jumping in with this information. Looking forward to more about the new preamp. Will it be like the tube buffer with some gain? :scratch:
-
Oooohhhhh. Interesting. :eyebrows: :hyper: :dance:
Anand.
-
I'm an (old) beginner DIY'er without enough money to do what I want :(, but of course want some sonic purity :).
I just finished putting together a 6 channel CDA254 kit from ClassDAudio and would now like to take the next step.
I have an Oppo 970HD as source player and Synergy clone speakers.
I am thinking of putting together a DIY Dodd Buffer. My understanding is I will need a DIY DAC of some sort. Will I then need a volume control or will the DIY DAC have that, or is it optional?
My DIY skills so far have been limited to sub and speaker builds before the CDA kit. But I think I am ready to take this on.
Of course my goal here is minimum dollars spent for maximum sonic gain :).
Any help would be appreciated.
If I have shown my ignorance already...well there's nothing I can do about that!
Thanks
Moto
-
The Dodd buffer is two channel. Were you planning on multichannel playback?
-
No, 2 channel.
I'm using the 6 channels for the active 3-way synergy clones.
-
Thanks for clarifying. I've built a buffer kit and also purchased one from Gary. It's a great piece of equipment. Gary also has a "Basic Buffer" that's even more affordable and might be a good fit for your set up. I would suggest calling or emailing Gary to confirm.
-
Definitely giing with the 1 in 1 out $150 kit. What is the least expensive way to power it? The battery kit is $250, that's more than I want to spend.
Also looking for a very inexpensive DAC, any suggestions?
Thanks
Moto
-
You can buy the battery and the ctek charger on your own for less.
-
I finally picked up a pair of these buffers. ;)
I'm looking for a small form factor battery to power them. Any recommendations? I only need 2-4 hours of battery life with 6H30's, thanks.
-
I finally picked up a pair of these buffers. ;)
I'm looking for a small form factor battery to power them. Any recommendations? I only need 2-4 hours of battery life with 6H30's, thanks.
Look at the UB1250-F1 style 12VDC@5Ah AGM batteries.
This should give about 4 hours of playtime. The CTEK chargers work well with this battery.
-
Definitely giing with the 1 in 1 out $150 kit. What is the least expensive way to power it? The battery kit is $250, that's more than I want to spend.
Also looking for a very inexpensive DAC, any suggestions?
Thanks
Moto
A ctek 3300 charger and 7ah battery would work. You can parallel multiple batteries to increase playback time as well.
-
Now were gettin' somewhere. Battery and charger for less than $100.
Now just to find a ridiculously inexpensive quality DAC and I am getting close.
Thanks for the help,
Moto
-
Try a Musiland Monitor 01US DAC from Ebay.
-
Here are some choices and you could double up as needed to get whatever AH you want...
If you are an Amazon Prime Member, they ship free. If not, let me know and we can work something out...
Ted
You could get 1 or 3 of these
http://www.amazon.com/UB645-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B0006N61RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/UB12180-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B001DL7D1O/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/UB1280-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B0009GIKNE/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-5
Again, maybe 1-2
http://www.amazon.com/UB1250-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B001DL9IBC/ref=sr_1_6?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-6
http://www.amazon.com/D5744-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Batteries/dp/B001DLAO0Q/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1303874388&sr=8-9
-
praedet,
Thanks, I am a Prime member.
I assume the AH ratings don't directly coincide with actual run time. Can you leave the charger hooked up at all times?
Is the Musiland Monitor at the same quality level as the DODD?
Sorry for all the questions, this is new territory for me.
Moto
-
MX48
If you're using a cd/dvd player for playback, I don't believe you need a DAC. A DAC would be necessary if you were using a computer as your source and wanted to play back high-rez recordings.
-
praedet,
Thanks, I am a Prime member.
I assume the AH ratings don't directly coincide with actual run time. Can you leave the charger hooked up at all times?
Is the Musiland Monitor at the same quality level as the DODD?
Sorry for all the questions, this is new territory for me.
Moto
The Musiland Monitor 01US DAC is a USB input only DAC. This is for PC or MAC operation. It is very good for the price.
If you need an S/PDIF input DAC to work with a CD or DVD transport, this is not the one to use.
-
praedet,
Thanks, I am a Prime member.
I assume the AH ratings don't directly coincide with actual run time. Can you leave the charger hooked up at all times?
Is the Musiland Monitor at the same quality level as the DODD?
Sorry for all the questions, this is new territory for me.
Moto
From above it looks like 5AH is about 4 hours or so of play time. I don't think ANYONE has said they could hear the CTek charger working, so I think everyone keeps it plugged in. I am running a very large battery with 4 things connected and I always have my CTek plugged in...
You only need a DAC of some kind if you are going to bypass the DAC in your digital source and want to do the conversion after...
-
So I can plug my OPPO directly into the DODD and save some money? That would be great!
I will still need volume control correct?
Thanks again for all the help
-
If the OPPO has a remote with volume control, you can go directly into the buffer. If the OPPO does not, then you need a volume control. Gary sells a very good ALPS Blue volume control if needed.
-
Yes the OPPO has a volume control. It doesn't seem to work except to mute but I am assuming that is because it is connected to my receiver.
Anyway this just keeps getting better and better. I can get things going for around $200 or so.
Moto
-
So I can plug my OPPO directly into the DODD and save some money? That would be great!
I will still need volume control correct?
Thanks again for all the help
If you go with either of the Dodd buffers, they will provide volume control.
-
I don't want to sound pessimistic but to control 6 channels of amplification you are likely to need 3 buffers or some form of active gain stage. A simple buffer will not control volume.
-
Just wondering if anyone has any details on the new Dodd Audio Remote LDR.
Is it something that can be integrated into an existing Dodd buffer, ie. replace the existing remote board?
thanks
-
Here is a very nice review of Gary's Buffer on Dagogo.com.
http://www.dagogo.com/View-Article.asp?hArticle=978 (http://www.dagogo.com/View-Article.asp?hArticle=978)
-
Congratulations Gary for the great review. You once again have created a great product. I love mine.
-
Couple Qs. I've ordered and received one of Gary's bare basic tube buffer kits, plan is to build a single I/O passive preamp incorporating it and either a Warpspeed LDR attenuator or Goldpoint Mini V stepped attenuator. 18" interconnects will be hard wired into the preamp, unit mounted directly behind the power amp, next to my Channel Island VDA-2.
The project is going to be spread out over the winter, whenever I can find some spare change here or there (in the tradition of the Cheap and Cheerful!) :green:
If I go with the Goldpoint, would I use the same pot value (100K) as the big boy kit?
And where are folks getting their 6H30P-DR tube? I see Parts Connexion carries them. Good source? (I have bought from them before, with no problems).
http://www.partsconnexion.com/tube_nos_6h30.html (http://www.partsconnexion.com/tube_nos_6h30.html)
-
I can only respond to your tube question. Yes, Parts Connexion seems to be the best/most affordable option for the "supertube."
-
Thanks
-
^^^^^
100K Pot value is a good match for the kit.
:thumb:
-
Thanks T. I'm sending you a PM.
-
Ordering a CTEK charger today, and we have a Batteries Plus store down the road, so I can check out if they have something in stock I can use.
I have some questions regarding the 12 volt power supply. Have a closet on the back wall that has some of my equipment in it, hidden from view. I've seen the gorgeous battery boxes some have done here, but if I can throw the battery and charger in the closet, I won't need to go there.
Can I do a 6'-8' 12 VDC cable run from battery to buffer? If so, what gauge wire should I use? If not, what's the max length? Does the cable need to be shielded? Thanks
-
^^^^^
Buffer only draw 1A, so 12G wire should handle, make sure you add on an extra fuse close to the battery possible, just for extra safety.
-
Good news, thanks
-
I emailed gary the other day for a vol pot and knob but he hasnt replied. Where else can i get a blue alps, is there anything else to use?
-
^^^^^
Try email Gary again, he had problem with his email last few days.
-
A Goldpoint stepped attenuator would be better, if not an Alps pot would work.
-
Or try the Warpspeed LDR.
-
Gary has on his website that he is working on a remote LDR volume control for his preamps.
Might be worth seeing if he plans a retrofit kit for the existing buffers.
-
Anyone know what this mess is? :lol:
(http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/6040/doddbuffer.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/doddbuffer.jpg/)
-
I would say it is a balanced Dodd Audio Buffer being driven by a piece of sculpture. :scratch:
-
^^^^^
Sculpture made it balanced.
:thumb:
and sound good too :lol:
-
Starting to get my parts together, thanks Trung for helping me out there :thumb: Ordered some Sonicap Platinums for bypass caps and M/F neutrik powercons. Got the Power Sonic 18 AH battery and CTEK 3300.
Picked up a small, inexpensive panel mount analog 0-15 VDC meter from a local ET shop, to use on a temporary breadboard board I am first building the buffer on, need to start breaking in the caps ASAP. Later will get one of those nice ones from JD for the finished chassis. I want to be able to monitor the voltage right on the buffer.
I see on the standard buffer kit, it uses a power switch/mute board. But on the single I/O buffer pictured on the Dodd site, it appears he uses a standard toggle switch. Can this be a SPST switch, or does it need to be DPST (w/both plus and minus controlled)?
I assuming the mute function is to prevent turn on/off thumps?, Is that going to be an issue when using just a toggle? In my system I turn the power amp on last / off first (manually), so I should be OK, right?.
Also is the signal grounded to chassis, same as/tied into the 12 VDC ground, or should they be isolated? I'm using an Aragon 8008ST amp, and have had DC offset problems with it before.
Edit: Emailed Gary, SPST switch OK, all grounds go together. Onward
-
^^^^^
Glad you got email from Gary.
:thumb:
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I was up in the garage attic the other day, found an old surplus ammo case laying around. Thought that it might make a decent battery box (as long as it's hidden :) ). Do these gel batteries in this type of app need any ventilation at all? The metal ammo box is air tight, although that could be remedied with a drill and drill bit.
Also when checking into some more Neutrik powercons, for the above box, discovered on their web site that the gray colored connectors are designated as "power-out", vs the blue color as "power-in". But yet folks here use the gray ones on their buffer chassis (power-in). Is this a non-issue, or am I missing something here?
http://www.neutrik.com/en/lighting/powercon/powercon-20-a/ (http://www.neutrik.com/en/lighting/powercon/powercon-20-a/)
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^^^^^
SLA > Seal Lead Acid
So your armmo case should work great (great ideal) :thumb:
You can use either Neutrik powercon, just make sure you get the right male plug for it.
Gray powercon is corrected power in.
NAC3FCB + NAC3MPB-1
You can add an inline fuse closed to the battery possible (more safety)
(http://visforvoltage.org/files/u1786/NewFuseBox.jpg)
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I emailed gary the other day for a vol pot and knob but he hasnt replied. Where else can i get a blue alps, is there anything else to use?
Try hifi collective in UK for the ALps pot
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^^^^^
SLA > Seal Lead Acid
So your armmo case should work great (great ideal) :thumb:
You can use either Neutrik powercon, just make sure you get the right male plug for it.
I"m going to have a couple Ms & Fs of each color, so I'm good there.
Right now have a standard 50 cal box, may look for a "fat" 50, in town, which will give me a little more room. Thanks to all the military bases around here, we have a "surplus" of surplus stores to choose from. :green:
(http://www.galaxyarmynavy.com/prodimages/9103-big.jpg)
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^^^^^
:thumb:
If you drill few holes for vent, you can mount the C-Tek charger inside, on the lid.
:wink:
The lid can become a heat sink.
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Change of subject just a bit, would a 7ah sla work well with the Dodd buffer? How much playing time can be expected from a fully charged 7ah battery?
Thanks :thumb:
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No reason why it should not work as long as it is 12V. And if you get a ctek smart charger, you can leave it connected and not have to worry about the battery running out.
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No reason why it should not work as long as it is 12V. And if you get a ctek smart charger, you can leave it connected and not have to worry about the battery running out.
usp1, thanks for jumping in here. I just ordered a 9ah PowerSonic and a smart charger. I agree with you, and that's the way I plan to hook it up.
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TrungT ,can you tell me why dodd buffers use the grey powercon for power in,when neutrik describes it as power out.
http://www.neutrik.com/en/lighting/powercon/powercon-20-a/
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I called Neutrik USA regarding this, and you are right, the designation refers to the chassis mount female connectors. Blue is in, grey is out.
Doesn't really matter though. I have both versions on hand, they appear to be identical, but "mirror imaged". So pick what ever color you like, and just make sure you buy the same color male counterpart for the cable.
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Doesn't really matter though.
Actually it does matter. It's done so one wouldn't plug higih voltage into something that was supposed to be Vout. I suggest you use the proper connector for the intended purpose. If not for you but maybe someone else down the line.
When I had my external battery box it would've been really easy to make a mistake but with the proper connectors it takes all of that away.
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Yes you are correct there. I bought two of each, and plan on doing it "right", even though I know that my project won't be used by anyone else. I can use the two grey "outs" on the battery box, along with one blue. Then a blue on the buffer.
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What gauge is the silver/copper wire in the kit?
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I think 22g teflon silver/copper.
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deleted
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Did i hook up the vol. pot backwards? the vol goes down clock wise and up counter clock and i have heavy distortion. Good thing is my dac and class d amp are on batteries and sound great.
I have the outs from the tube going to the center pin(2) Ground on pin 3 and pin 1 to my amp. Also i have the caps after the pot, should they be before the pot?
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AFAIK, the pot should go before the tube, the tube buffer has an input impedance of 100k, that's why a 100k pot is used. The caps go after the buffer. Email Gary, he's very quick with a response.
Here are the diagrams from the Dodd site. If you have the new Dodd basic buffer that has just one module, that diagram is different.
http://doddaudio.com/Documents/DIAGRAM.pdf (http://doddaudio.com/Documents/DIAGRAM.pdf)
http://doddaudio.com/Documents/buffer%20module%20wiring.pdf (http://doddaudio.com/Documents/buffer%20module%20wiring.pdf)
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I got my Dodd battery tube buffer/Goldpoint attenuator just over a week ago, and it sounds terrific in my little single CDP source system. The Goldpoint 20K stepped attenuator sounded very detailed by itself, but the Dodd makes everything sound more dynamic along with the many other positive attributes already mentioned many times.
Gary did a wonderful job building this buffer to my cosmetic specs. Looks awesome! If anyone wants more info, just PM me anytime. :D
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Looks awesome!
How about posting some pics?
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Anyone got any info on the upcoming DODD Audio LDR?
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I got my Dodd battery tube buffer/Goldpoint attenuator just over a week ago, and it sounds terrific in my little single CDP source system. The Goldpoint 20K stepped attenuator sounded very detailed by itself, but the Dodd makes everything sound more dynamic along with the many other positive attributes already mentioned many times.
Gary did a wonderful job building this buffer to my cosmetic specs. Looks awesome! If anyone wants more info, just PM me anytime. :D
Good to hear, Roy. I talked to Arn Roatcap just a few days ago, going to order a Goldpoint next week. He recommended a 25k, (as he does on his web site :) ). Gary said this would be fine also, evidently the pot size isn't that critical.
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Good to hear, Roy. I talked to Arn Roatcap just a few days ago, going to order a Goldpoint next week. He recommended a 25k, (as he does on his web site :) ). Gary said this would be fine also, evidently the pot size isn't that critical.
I doubt there would be any audible difference between the 20K and 25K, just remember to keep the IC's as short as possible. I'm using 1 meter ic's. 2 volts from your CDP will give you plenty of volume if your speakers are of average or higher efficiency.
How about posting some pics?
I will try to post some pics soon.
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These pics of my completed buffer w/GP volume control were sent by Gary Dodd.
(http://)
(http://)
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I doubt there would be any audible difference between the 20K and 25K, just remember to keep the IC's as short as possible. I'm using 1 meter ic's. 2 volts from your CDP will give you plenty of volume if your speakers are of average or higher efficiency.
Yeah he probably recommends the 25k cause that's what he keeps the most of in stock. :wink:
Buffer looking good. I should have my ammo can battery box done next week, and all my buffer parts together sometime next month. Thinking about using one of those fancy Hammond chassis with the walnut sides.
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So im still having distortion problems even after i rewired it using the instructions gary sent me. Now its been 2 weeks and i havent heard anything from gary. What should i do ive had this thing for months.
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Snap shot a hi-rez pict.
Lucky, we may spot something.
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Question for all with experience with this buffer. I am looking to buffer the signal from my EE Minimax Dac (22k Zout) and my Beta22 (46k Zin). I am thinking of the inline buffer as I need only 1 set of ins and outs and already have a stepped attenuator in my Beta22. There is no reason to add anything further, right? (except possibly bypass caps, battery and tube). Thanks.
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Are you looking for a pre-built completed unit from Gary, or just the kit to roll your own?
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Are you looking for a pre-built completed unit from Gary, or just the kit to roll your own?
I could go either way. The pre-built inline unit seems to be a real bargain at its price. The kit is tempting just to try my hand at the build.
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I'm building one from scratch, and have already spent more $$$ than if I were to have just bought a completed one from Gary. :roll: My choice obviously, but I wanted a Goldpoint pot and panel voltmeter installed, in a larger chassis. Arn at Goldpoint even suggested I could add a selector switch to switch in/out the buffer stage. No plan to do that now, but will have the "real estate" in the chassis available if I choose to later.
If you go with the prebuilt, you will need what you listed plus at least one (gray, not blue) male powercon connector, #NAC3FCB and a 2 conductor wire cord to go from unit to battery. Also a CTEK battery charger. Plus an inline fuse at the battery isn't a bad idea.
Or just buy the power kit from Gary.
If you do the kit you will need the above plus a female powercon, could throw in the 6A10 diode for power protection, and bypass platinum caps for extra performance (I did). Fuse holder with 2 amp fuse, toggle power switch, chassis mounted RCA connectors, hookup wire, connectors, maybe some type of terminal barrier or solder strip, and a chassis.
I'm also adding one of the nice voltmeters from Jamestown Dist. on the front panel, opposite the Goldpoint pot knob.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13048&familyName=Faria+Chesapeake+Series+Gauges (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13048&familyName=Faria+Chesapeake+Series+Gauges)
To go a step further, you can build a battery box. In mine I will have one input (blue), two output (gray) powercons, a HD STDP toggle switch to control both outputs, fuses on each output with "blow" indicator lights, and a panel mounted voltmeter.
If I missed anything Trung can help out here, he's built a few of these things. :green:
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Thank you very much. In your opinion, is this a good way to address the impedance differential between my minimax and beta22? It seems to be a better sonic (fewer parts) and cost effective solution than adding a pre-amp to the mix.
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Jk@home list everything you needs to build the Dodd buffer. :thumb:
Dodd buffer impedance 100k if you using 6H30DR tube, and the impedance change according what tube you are using.
I think Gary build a 1 in, 1 out with Goldpoint pot for Roymail and he's very please with it.
Gary build - cost little more but more resale value.
DIY kits - save money
The choices is your. :wink:
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Thank you very much. In your opinion, is this a good way to address the impedance differential between my minimax and beta22? It seems to be a better sonic (fewer parts) and cost effective solution than adding a pre-amp to the mix.
Not familiar with your stuff, but I came up with the same conclusion. I'm using a Channel Island DAC with an output of 825 ohms, a power amp with an input impedance of 22k ohms, and a passive preamp in between..
Right now I'm using a CI passive pre, and tried an old MF X-10 D tube buffer between it and the amp. Showed my MMG speakers like a little bit of tube stage in the system.
Hoping the Goldpoint/Dodd setup will give me that sound but with better resolution than the Musical Fidelity buffer offers.
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Hi,
This is my first post on this forum, but I've thoroughly enjoyed reading it.
I've been enjoying the DODD buffer for several weeks now and really like what it does. I am though, having trouble with a low hum noticeable over 10' from the speakers. From what I read, it seems I should have no detectable noise from the speaker and certainly not that far away. Could you advise if there is anything else I should check in troubleshooting?
- I am using 2 Class D audio CDA 254 running mono.
- My setup is silent, dead silent without the buffer. Removing the buffer from the setup returns it to dead silent.
- The noise exists even if the buffer is not on. It is slightly louder when on.
- Using the Sovtek 6H30PI with 12v selected.
- The unit is still bread boxed as I trouble shoot this.
- All indicated ground points, 2 PRP 100K, and negative side of the battery terminate to the same point.
- If the CTEK 3300 is connected, there is additional feedback, especially if it kicks in to charge rather than trickle. It is unusable while listening.
- Using a UB1250 battery or an large Odessy I plan to run the amps on eventually as well.
My next step was to try something other than speaker wire as my power wire from the battery to the buffer. I suspect it may be some sort of ground issue though, as it seems everyone else can leave there CTEK connected 100% of the time.
Do you have any other suggestions to try? Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Arn at Goldpoint even suggested I could add a selector switch to switch in/out the buffer stage.
Do you have more information on how to do this and what to order? I'd love to have the option to bypass for a/b testing and home theater use.
Thanks!
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Wondering would it be possible to use this to change a singel ended rca to a differential output and still enjoy the great tube buffer.
I would want to have it feed a asx2 icepower amp in BTL mode, and it needs a differential signal to do so.
Also this amp have 24V dc Auxiliary Supply and supports max. 250mA.
Can it be done? If so, how should it be wired?
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Do you mean balanced output? If so, to be fully balanced, you would need a second kit. Together, they would still need a 12V input, but the mA would be higher. I'm FYI, I'm using a 12v, 4.5A solid state power supply to feed a pair of buffers in balanced configuration.
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Rodric
Welcome to AC. :thumb:
" Using the Sovtek 6H30PI with 12v selected "
6H30 is 6V tube, so you may try to switch back to 6V and see if the noise still there.
Dodd buffer with ClassD amp does make a tube hiss sound but only your ear next to the tweeter.
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Arn at Goldpoint even suggested I could add a selector switch to switch in/out the buffer stage.
Do you have more information on how to do this and what to order? I'd love to have the option to bypass for a/b testing and home theater use.
Thanks!
I didn't go there with him, but here's the Goldpoint switcher page.
http://www.goldpt.com/selector.html (http://www.goldpt.com/selector.html)
If using just a 2 pole switch in between the volume pot and buffer, with one switch output leg going to the buffer input, and the other going directly to the output female RCA, there would be a back feed into the buffer caps when switched over to the "no buffer" position...problem? :scratch: You would have to ask Gary on that one.
Another solution would be to do the above, but just have two sets of output female RCAs, one set off the buffer, the other directly off the "no-buffer" position of the switch. Of course then you would have to move the output interconnect cables whenever you switched over. PITA, but simpler.
I guess a third option would be to get a 4 pole switch and switch in and out both the input and output of the buffer. That would be more contacts in the signal path, but may be ok.
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Rodic
Welcome to AC. :thumb:
" Using the Sovtek 6H30PI with 12v selected "
6H30 is 6V tube, so you may try to switch back to 6V and see if the noise still there.
Dodd buffer with ClassD amp does make a tube hiss sound but only your ear next to the tweeter.
Thanks Trung.
I emailed Gary today too. He told me since its picking up noise before its even on, its getting feedback from somewhere. Following his advice, I moved the amp and anything else with AC away and shortened the 7' cable to the battery. Its much, much better now. Only some hiss now with my head about a foot from the speaker. I am re-thinking my single integrated amp build to several small shielded "shoe boxes" instead.
I am still getting an unacceptable amount of feedback if the CTEK 3300 is plugged in concurrently though. Bad house wiring perhaps? I'm at a loss.
I'd say the tube actually sounds better (to me) at the 12v setting, although I would guess I'm shortening its life. The switch runs noticeably hotter on the 6v than the 12v setting too. No noise difference in either mode, but a considerable difference in glow! Have I ruined it running it so long incorrectly? Did the forum ever come up with a list of suggested tubes or does everyone pretty much run the 6H30 DP and call it a day?
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I didn't go there with him, but here's the Goldpoint switcher page.
http://www.goldpt.com/selector.html (http://www.goldpt.com/selector.html)
If using just a 2 pole switch in between the volume pot and buffer, with one switch output leg going to the buffer input, and the other going directly to the output female RCA, there would be a back feed into the buffer caps when switched over to the "no buffer" position...problem? :scratch: You would have to ask Gary on that one.
Another solution would be to do the above, but just have two sets of output female RCAs, one set off the buffer, the other directly off the "no-buffer" position of the switch. Of course then you would have to move the output interconnect cables whenever you switched over. PITA, but simpler.
I guess a third option would be to get a 4 pole switch and switch in and out both the input and output of the buffer. That would be more contacts in the signal path, but may be ok.
Thanks for the response and link. Once I get my feedback problem sorted, I'll play around with it. If I get my feedback sorted and the ctek can stay on all the time, I may be temped just to keep it simple and use it all the time. I thought it would be nice to bypass for standard TV watching though.
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Rodric
6H30DR tube is the best sounding tube for me.
The older date code is the better it sound. :thumb:
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MUCH BETTER NOW! I found that the ground to the voltage selector was very loose and came right off with a gentle pull. If I moved it and got it just right, the feedback went away. A spot of silver solder, and most of the noise problems went away. I'm sure the right voltage helps too :)
Trung, thanks again. I'll try to find a 6H30DR tube to try as well. I'll put it all back in the case and take a pic of my Staple's provided integrated amp case.
The only problem remaining is, the CTEK still cannot be connected while I'm listening. Inconvenient, but not a show-stopper. However, everyone else on the forum doesn't seem to have the same issue with listening with the charger connected. Any Ideas?
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Rodric
What's battery amp hr?
Check your PM.
:wink:
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...The only problem remaining is, the CTEK still cannot be connected while I'm listening. Inconvenient, but not a show-stopper. However, everyone else on the forum doesn't seem to have the same issue with listening with the charger connected. Any Ideas?
I remember reading at least one other person having a noise issue with the CTEK. There was a battery box posted in this thread or another here at AC where some power filtering was added.
I myself have an issue of leaving it plugged in all the time due to lightning storms and power surges we get around here. So my solution was to buy two 18 AH batteries and only plug in the charger when needed.
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Do you mean balanced output? If so, to be fully balanced, you would need a second kit. Together, they would still need a 12V input, but the mA would be higher. I'm FYI, I'm using a 12v, 4.5A solid state power supply to feed a pair of buffers in balanced configuration.
Yes balanced output.
One kit per channel or are you saying two kit per channel?
I could live with one kit per channel.
okay i seems that i would need external power supply.
I have two Virtue M5001 iceblock with tube buffer, and the tube buffer are using the on board 12Vdc.
I would love to build some 250asx2 and use them in BTL mode with tube buffer to power my bass/sub speakers.
It would be so nice and simple just to use the on board power supply.
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One kit per channel.
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^^^^^
:thumb:
And if you can reg. to 6V heater, you can use a bunch of 6V tube.
:wink:
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I remember reading at least one other person having a noise issue with the CTEK. There was a battery box posted in this thread or another here at AC where some power filtering was added.
I myself have an issue of leaving it plugged in all the time due to lightning storms and power surges we get around here. So my solution was to buy two 18 AH batteries and only plug in the charger when needed.
From Trung:
What's battery amp hr?
I may have to try filtering. I suspect I have some funky house wiring going on.
I'm using a UB1250 (5AH). I've also tried an Odessy car battery (55AH), but it also introduces noise for some reason. Neither will work powering the buffer with the CTEK connected.
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Is there a good (honest/genuine) source for nos 6H30-dr's ?
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I bought mine at Parts Connexxion. They are advertising matched pairs, but you might want to inquire about the availability of single tubes.
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What is the recommend battery to use for the buffer please. The answer probably in this thread somewhere but it really is too much to go through 50+ pages to find it. Thanks
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SLA or AGM battery is the best choice.
7AH battery will last you around 3-4hrs playtime, So 2X7AH battery and C-Tek smart charger, should to the trick.
:thumb:
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Any particular model # that is proven good/reliable. thanks
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C-Tek charger http://www.amazon.com/Ctek-Battery-Charger-56158-56-158/dp/B000FQBWCY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1337787461&sr=1-1 (http://www.amazon.com/Ctek-Battery-Charger-56158-56-158/dp/B000FQBWCY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1337787461&sr=1-1)
14AH Power Sonic http://www.batteryplex.com/powersonic.cfm/m/PS-12140-F2 (http://www.batteryplex.com/powersonic.cfm/m/PS-12140-F2)
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Great. Many thanks Trung !!!
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You are welcome. :thumb:
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This thread was fading into the sunset, so I figured I would post the pics of my passive pre plus buffer, to give it a bump. My project sat around for the summer, finally got to finished it up. Spent a little more than I could have, but very happy with the results.
The project started out as a single input/output design. I used a Goldpoint 25k attenuator, a Hammond case for the buffer, and an ammo box for the batteries (hidden in a closet). Once I found that the pre could easily drive both my main amp and a DBX crossover for my subs, I added a second output.
Just a fair warning, there definitely is a breakin period for the caps, etc. it has been obvious in my case. I found no audible effect leaving the battery charger connected 24/7, actually there is positively no noise present whatsoever. Amazing since I'm mixing consumer and pro gear together. Many thanks to Gary Dodd, TrungT and all other members for their help!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/854/picture005ag.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/233/p1020264j.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/812/p1020270xf.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/39/p1020282v.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/405/p1020288m.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/547/p1020294.jpg)
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Nice work! :thumb: The Dodd buffer is next on my DIY project list.
..Roy
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Just sent one that I built to Forrest Dweller with a 6H30P-DR tube installed. Installed the Sonicap Platinum bypass and IR remote volume control.
Hope he sees the thread and posts his impressions.
Mine sounds wonderful with the Super-V's! :thumb:
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Yes the one above has the same tube, and the extra bypass caps.
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^^^^^
Very nice build. :thumb:
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Better late than never . :green:
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Just a fair warning, there definitely is a breakin period for the caps, etc.
:lol: You have Platinum by-pass caps in yours. Those need a good 500 hours to settle in. Those things are just going to keep getting better.
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The buffer really did sound bad "off the build table". Mainly the bass was mushy, the treble was muffled. Luckily I had some experience before with building crossovers for my MMGs, so I knew to hang in there.
After about 50 hours the buffer's bass started to settle down, so I knew I was OK. Getting close to the 150 mark now. Good thing about breaking in preamps is they can be run with the power amp off, to get them burned in quicker.
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I've been reading this thread since the beginning; but, it has been quite some time since my last visit. I just came back, to catch up on the latest Dodd posts, and to just refresh my memory on this buffer. But, there appear to be more changes than I anticipated, leaving me a bit confused. :o
Evidently, there have been site changes too, to the Dodd Audio web site, resulting in broken links throughout this thread. This has made rereading this thread difficult. Also, there seem to be a new, cheaper tube buffer that's available But, I can't find much info on Gary's site about features and prices. The old site was pretty good about pricing and options. While the new site looks better, it doesn't seem to provide as much usable info (that I can find). :duh:
So, now that I finally have a new home, and have space for both old and new gear, I don't know now how to research a new (Dodd) remote controlled tubed preamp. The remote is a must, as well as being tubed based. A DIY kit is nice too. But, what's the best way to determine what's available, and pricing? Can anyone help? :D
Thanks! :thumb:
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Excellent questions. I have a certain sympathy for Gary trying to navigate AC's policies regarding industry participants and his ever changing commercial status. He started out as a very small cottage industry DIY'er offering a Cheap and Cheerful kit to interested parties. That ballooned in interest to where he wasn't offering a DIY option and his product no longer qualified for the circle pricewise, but I let the thread stand for archival purposes. From the website(s) it looks like the DIY option is back in play. However there are now two active sites, http://www.doddaudio.com/Home.php (http://www.doddaudio.com/Home.php) and http://www.doddaudio.com/ (http://www.doddaudio.com/) with the first one giving prices for DIY options and the second only a picture. I don't have any idea which one is correct, or if both are.
Gary would be restricted in posting any promotional items in this circle so answering questions about directing you to a particular website would be prohibited. He can only answer direct questions about his products. However if you called or emailed him and posted the response here yourself, that doesn't violate anything. :wink:
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I've been reading this thread since the beginning; but, it has been quite some time since my last visit. I just came back, to catch up on the latest Dodd posts, and to just refresh my memory on this buffer. But, there appear to be more changes than I anticipated, leaving me a bit confused. :o
Evidently, there have been site changes too, to the Dodd Audio web site, resulting in broken links throughout this thread. This has made rereading this thread difficult. Also, there seem to be a new, cheaper tube buffer that's available But, I can't find much info on Gary's site about features and prices. The old site was pretty good about pricing and options. While the new site looks better, it doesn't seem to provide as much usable info (that I can find). :duh:
So, now that I finally have a new home, and have space for both old and new gear, I don't know now how to research a new (Dodd) remote controlled tubed preamp. The remote is a must, as well as being tubed based. A DIY kit is nice too. But, what's the best way to determine what's available, and pricing? Can anyone help? :D
Thanks! :thumb:
I think his web site is going through some updating.
The simple solution to your questions is to simply give Gary a call and ask him. Looks like his phone number is listed on both of those sites.
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The buffer is no longer Cheap & Cheerful though. I see on the site it's $1595 and $2500 for the pre. :o
There is so much stuff out there for that kind of money. He seems to still offer some DIY stuff but it requires a chassis. It adds up quick! Don't forget you still need a battery & charger.
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The buffer is no longer Cheap & Cheerful though. I see on the site it's $1595 and $2500 for the pre. :o
There is so much stuff out there for that kind of money. He seems to still offer some DIY stuff but it requires a chassis. It adds up quick! Don't forget you still need a battery & charger.
The pre-amp listed for $2,500 is a new variable version. I am not sure if any other companies even make such a product. If they are then they are few and far between. And I don't think any company makes one that is battery powered.
And when looking for the best pre-amps on the market all cost aside, price no object, and comparing the best of the best. Then this stuff REALLY is cheap and cheerful. And you can still buy the kit for the buffer and build it yourself for just about nothing.
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The pre-amp listed for $2,500 is a new variable version. I am not sure if any other companies even make such a product. If they are then they are few and far between. And I don't think any company makes one that is battery powered.
And when looking for the best pre-amps on the market all cost aside, price no object, and comparing the best of the best. Then this stuff REALLY is cheap and cheerful. And you can still buy the kit for the buffer and build it yourself for just about nothing.
Gary would be restricted in posting any promotional items in this circle so answering questions about directing you to a particular website would be prohibited. He can only answer direct questions about his products.
Yeah but he has the best AC salesman on his side as seen above. :roll: It gets real old.
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Thanks Guys,
I appreciate the replies and the guidance. And while I do have an email request in to Gary, for info concerning available DIY kits and pricing, I was hoping there was an easy answer available through AC customers here. But, as I don't want to violate any rules concerning pricing, I'm more than happy to await Gary's reply.
Now, for those in the know, is the newer single input buffer still a winner! As good sounding as expected? While all my gear was in storage for several years, while building a new home, I listened to music through a tubed headphone amp, just to get by. Now, I want to maintain that sound quality, in my home system; correct timber, resolution, speed, and a slight touch of tube warmth. I'm not looking for syrup, just clarity. I hope a Dodd buffer can help achieve this?
Thanks again,
Stimpy
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I have 3 Dodd tube buffers, 1 is a balanced version I use with my Ncore 400s monos, it sounds great.
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The single input buffer is the same circuit as the multi-input buffer. It just does not have the switchable input board. Normally comes with an nice stereo volume control.
You would need to contact Gary about the remote control system. Should be simple to mate the two systems without the selector board. I am sure Trung can help if needed as well.
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Yeah but he has the best AC salesman on his side as seen above. :roll: It gets real old.
Jason, what has gotten old to me is your constant negativity. You always seem to have something combative to say or a jab to make. I don't know what got your panties wadded up. I don't know if you are begrudging me because I didn't do back flips over your Ncore amps that I demo'ed. I don't know if it's a subjective verses objective camp deal that has you responding this way. I really don't know what your deal is. Maybe it would be best if you just told me what the real problem is rather than these constant little gabs.
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It would definitely make things simpler if there were a Dodd Audio Sponsors Forum here at AC. But,
that costs too. Probably not cheap, especially for small, boutique companies... :|
Yeah but he has the best AC salesman on his side as seen above. :roll: It gets real old.
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Yeah but he has the best AC salesman on his side as seen above. :roll: It gets real old.
Nope, not getting old. We are free to follow any industry Guru we like. Knowledgeable advice is what people want when they are figuring out what item to invest in. What we do with that advice is our choice. BTW rolling ones eyes is so disrespectful.
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...Now, I want to maintain that sound quality, in my home system; correct timber, resolution, speed, and a slight touch of tube warmth...
That's sounds like what the Dodds unit did for me. Improved performance over the basic passive pre I was using before, due to an impedance mismatch. Lovin it.
Of course no one here can know how it will perform in your system, maybe you can request a loaner?
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As far as rules go, no Stimpy, asking questions about a product that sells for under $400 doesn't violate any C&C pricing guidelines. The guidelines are in place because the circle is special interest and we just have to draw a line somewhere, otherwise we're soon posting threads about about $2500 preamps because they're really such a deal. :wink: So you're just fine with your posts.
As for Danny posting here, the rules are clear, it's not his product, he can comment as he sees fit as long as it's within general site rules, which I don't think he has ever violated to my knowledge. Yes Jason, you are correct, we all know (or at least most of us) that Danny and Gary have cooperated with each other both on his circle and outside of AC. I don't have any problem with you pointing this out as long as we keep respectful, which you always do anyway. I don't have any problem with Danny and Gary cooperating with each other, it's his circle, he pays for it, and it's not against any rules that I'm aware of.
However as we can witness here, off topic backbiting doesn't lead to anywhere good, so both of you guys can stop now please and thank you. You're not wrong in being frustrated, it's just counterproductive.
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I have 3 Dodd tube buffers, 1 is a balanced version I use with my Ncore 400s monos, it sounds great.
I'm also using a balanced version with a pair of W4S monos...talk about a huge soundstage!
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:D hi everybody i have just ordered a dodd buffer KIT to go as output stage of a Dac with a warpspeed volume control . can i use the same 12V regulated power supply is use with my warp speed ? or is it really important to use battery?
second question , if i use my warp speed in front of the buffer what will be the impedance seen by the output dac assuming that the warpspeed is like a 10K volume pot..
thanks
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Can't help you with the first one, but the input impedance of the buffer is 100 kOhms, no matter what tube you use. Also take note that the heatsink puts out quite a bit of heat (and the tube, to a lesser extent). From what I have read, the opticouple units can be affected by this? If so, plan accordingly.
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Hi.
Gary would be restricted in posting any promotional items in this circle so answering questions about directing you to a particular website would be prohibited. He can only answer direct questions about his products. [/quote]
That's the proper way to run a public Nonprofitable forum where commercials SHOULD be prohibited.
In another major audio forum, NO commercial related posters, e.g. audio manufacturers, their reps, dealerships, delegates, even site sponsors are permitted to post their product-related information in the entire forum. Simply to make sure the forum is strictly for audio hobbyists.
Keep on your good work!
c-J
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Hi.
The pre-amp listed for $2,500 is a new variable version. I am not sure if any other companies even make such a product. If they are then they are few and far between. And I don't think any company makes one that is battery powered.
USD2,500 a so-called zero-gain buffer is NOT cheap at all - from any DIYers' viewpoint.
If one fancies so much about "battery powered" no-gain buffer, why not read how I can build a similar one - dirt cheap.
I can build one one-stage active buffer technically very similar to any tube cathode follower (which I think the Dodd Buffer employed the same topology) - with very high I/P imedance & low low O/P impedance. 9V battery powered!!!!!
It will cost me a few bucks on a very few parts plus a few bucks on a small plastic equipment box.
Take a guess how can I achieve that!
How about I sell you one for $500???? :wink:
c-J
PS: In fact, I am now design-building one to interface my active 100W 10" subwoofer with my passive
stereo linestage.
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The new Dodd battery preamp that Danny is describing has variable voltage gain, it is not a buffer.
Gary's battery powered tube buffer kit was $300.
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Hi.
The new Dodd battery preamp that Danny is describing has variable voltage gain, it is not a buffer.
Gary's battery powered tube buffer kit was $300.
That's makes more sense to me. How about I sell you a buffer kit as described in my above post for $100? :wink:
I still make some good money per kit. :icon_lol:
c-J
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No thanks. I have my Dodd Tube buffer with a 6H30P-DR and Sonicap Platinum caps and very happy with it!
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No thanks. I have my Dodd Tube buffer with a 6H30P-DR and Sonicap Platinum caps and very happy with it!
Add a Mundorf/Silver Oil Cap and that should take it up a a further notch. I had Gary upgrade my caps and the results are very nice indeed.
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The buffer is no longer Cheap & Cheerful though. I see on the site it's $1595 and $2500 for the pre. :o
There is so much stuff out there for that kind of money. He seems to still offer some DIY stuff but it requires a chassis. It adds up quick! Don't forget you still need a battery & charger.
Maybe I could add some input as we rep Dodd and offer in home demo in the NYC area. The website requires an update. Very confusing. The 6H30 shown is not a buffer but a linestage. No longer in the cheap and cheerfull catergory.
Hope this helps.
charles
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For those of you who have enjoyed Gary's products, please read this thread, http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=113679.msg1184264;topicseen#new (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=113679.msg1184264;topicseen#new)
Whatever you can do.
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:D received my Dod inline buffer and put it after a Warpspeed volume control , works fine even if i loose some extreme Bass . the 6N6 sounds different than the EH6H30 more refined and relaxed. i use it after a variable regulated power supply not hum or noise to declare on my 102db speaker. :thumb: is the 12V is the max for power suplly or can i go higher? any max value?
cheers..
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If I remember correctly, you can push up to 14V, but no improvement to the sound though.
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Several days ago I ordered the Basic #1 DIY buffer (most basic) kit from Gary. I was going to incorporate the buffer into the same box with a T-amp, but instead decided to keep the buffer "stand-alone" to provide more flexibility. I will use the buffer first with my Pioneer 912, feeding some Mark Audio 7.3 based Frugal Horn 3's...fresh out of the birthing room. :D
I read about the 6h30 tube being prefered by many folks, and I may well start with this one, but what other (< $100) tubes are some of you guys enjoying in your buffers and why?
Thanks in advance for your input!
Pete
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Any 6DJ8 will do. For 6H30 the DR is expensive. The Electro Harminox gold pin 6H30 is very good, better than Sovtek IMO. Then again system synergy will decide what tube for you. I like the NOS Tele 6DJ8 myself or the DR, but that's me.
charles
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The USPS delivered the $150 buffer kit this afternoon, complete with a 6H6N tube. Thanks for the very quick delivery Gary! :singing: If looking through some of the earlier posted build pics doesn't answer my question regarding grounding/return, I may give you a call. Thanks again for this kit!
Pete
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I used the chassis for the main ground, Negative in, grounded it to chassis.
Everything else grounded to chassis.
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Thanks TrungT! So if I understand correctly, you connected the battery (-) to the chassis and the shield/sleeve of the RCA connector inputs/outputs also connected to the chassis?
Pete
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Yes.
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Another way to use the same idea is to create a star ground. Bring all input, output and circuit grounds to one point on the chassis. It does mean that all the input and output RCA's need to be isolated from the chassis like the Cardas RCA's with the plastic isolation washers.
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TrungT and Hal Thanks! Me thinks I will use a star ground inside the metal case I plan to use...should work well on this old winchester hard-drive case I plan to re-purpose.
Pete
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The way I grounded mine was a little different. I used one of those plastic wire terminal blocks to connect the positive and negative 6/12 volt signals (bottom RH side in pic). Then ran one negative wire from there over to a "star" copper bus behind the audio section on the other side of the box (top LH side of pic). Also grounded the chassis and all audio grounds to the copper buss, and made sure all chassis panels were grounded together. Used those Cardas RCAs referred to above, to connect the buss to, as shown on Gary's site.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img39/1826/p1020282v.jpg)
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nice utilization of butcher block :green: :green:
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Our local Bed Bath and Beyond stores sells nice heavy duty 16" x 18" x 2" butcher block cutting boards. I add spikes to them to use under my speakers, amps, etc. Makes everything on the floor vacuum cleaner proof. :D
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Hey JK, That's a clean build you have there. Very nice looking.
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Where did you get the coupler for the volume control?
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There are a few different Warpspeed style LDR volume control kits available. The Lightspeed is another possibility.
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Hey JK, That's a clean build you have there. Very nice looking.
Thanks, couldn't of done it without all the help here. :thumb:
Where did you get the coupler for the volume control?
I got the complete kit from DIY HIFI, hoping that the metric shaft would fit the metric volume knob I got from Goldpoint. Ended up still fitting a little loose, so I added some of that JB Weld goop into the knob to fill it in and tighten up the fit (once it dried).
One could come up with a shaft extension much more cheap and cheerful with parts from your local hardware store, and/or a mainstream parts supplier like Digi-Key.
http://diyhifisupply.com/node/523 (http://diyhifisupply.com/node/523)
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Question. Anyone familiar with a 24v AGM battery charger quiet enough to leave on all the time? I have a 12v CTEK charger that I was planning to use with my buffer but now am considering powering one of the tk2050 amplifier boards (the higher wattage boards require at least 24v) with two 12v AGM batteries in series, and pulling 12v off for the Dodd buffer.
The CTEK 24v chargers cost more than the buffer and are too spendy for me. I may try one of the many <$40 chargers available on ebay...I just don't know which, if any, are quiet.
Pete
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Those C-TEK chargers are worth the money man. They don't just recharge the battery, They will hit them with charge cycles that will extend the life of the batteries. I've had batteries that were old and wouldn't even take a charge get brought back to life with several cycles of charging that is suppose to de-sulfate them. And they are quiet.
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Pete,
In all of my testing and trials I have found NO 24 volt chargers capable of being quiet or inexpensive.
I have tried many many different ones.C-Tek is most likely good but not cheap.
Also my experience with 24 volt battery systems they will always be kinda short lived.
Batteries are not created equal and charging them can be a pain cause 1 battery will always fill first and then the charger backs off so the other battery never fully charges and fails too early.
Biggest reason I redesigned my circuits to be used with 12 volt battery. Average battery life is now 4-5 years.
Always use C-Tek chargers and leave them connected. Very quiet!
Gary
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good circle, I enjoyed the reading.
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Thnx, and welcome to AC. Did you read all 62 pages. :icon_lol:
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This is a question for those who run a Dodd buffer. I considered buying these a while ago but ended up with Intact AVC instead but the itch to try these has not left and I would most likely run them into the AVCs. The application is desktop and since the AVC I bought have four knobs they have to be in arms reach. My impression from the thread is that the 6H30 and the heat-sink run pretty hot. Does anyone run the 6DJ8? I would assume since it uses ~ 40% less current the heat from heat-sink and tube may be OK for me. Maybe another way of asking would it be OK to put the 6DJ8 in a vented box?
.
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I have a balanced Dodd tube buffer with 2- 6H30s and the only venting is the holes that the tubes stick out of and it doesn't run hot at all.
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Thanks for the reply! I just finished skipping through the thread and somehow I had the wrong impression. :duh:
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Thnx, and welcome to AC. Did you read all 62 pages. :icon_lol:
Thanks and yes I've read it a few times now. What brought me here; I bought the buffer and a class d amp second hand and wanted to learn what I could. Great info here. Thanks again.
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Hello,
After some information exchange with friendly Gary i did decide to order a selectable gain pre amp modified to work well with the 6085/e80cc tube because i like that one and because i have a lot of them in stock.
By doing so i am more willing to change the sonicap in the output by a better one.
I am sure there are better ones but i will have to do some googling. I love the Russian caps so far. Did spend a lot in the past on the so called high grade audiophile caps like Mit, solen, scr, wondercaps, sidereal.
The last few years the cap prices have gone trough the roof.
I wanna try russian petp caps too. Some say think they are to cheap to be good.
Anyway have to get a big battery and a ctek charger before being able to start comparing.
yours sincerely, Edward
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The Sonicap with a Platinum by-pass is very good, but my personal favorite right now is the flat stacked Jupiter caps. That's what I am currently running in mine.
Nice choice. You'll really love it.
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Hello Danny,
Sometimes adding a bypass could give you a sound that seems opr actually is not coherent. A bigger value or physical bigger cap will theoretically more need a bypass. So i usually go for the lower voltage. And in my loudspeaker instead of using one cap of 4uf i did go for 4 times 1uf in parallel
If the cap stays the same with the 6085 it will just be 3.3 uf. The petp russian 3.3 63 volts is small. The 4.7 k75-10 which i have in stock is 200 volts and it is rather big but i like it a lot in my crossover.
I allready did read about the jupiter and the dueland. They could be nice. But before buying i need to be sure it will be a big improvement.
I will keep on reading.
Sincere greetings, edward
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Sometimes adding a bypass could give you a sound that seems opr actually is not coherent.
Not in this case.
And in a loudspeaker crossover the phase shift that a small by-pass cap can cause is above 20kHz. You cause problems is when you start using values as large as a 1.0 or bigger.
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Ditto
but my personal favorite right now is the flat stacked Jupiter caps.
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Hello, The voltage across or at the cap in the output of the Dodd preamp will probably be small so i started to have doubts about the necessity of using 600 volts dc caps. There are some duelands and some jupiters who could be very nice.
If i would decide to spend 100$ or more on a cap i want it to be nice. I mean very nice. If spending 150 instead of 100 would be better i would choose the 150 one because the 100$ cap would end up in a box after buying the 150$.
But i still remember the MIT high tech caps being largely surpassed by a 40 year old Philips surplus cap. That was in loudspeaker crossover.
But now we are talking about an output cap for a pre amp.
Sincere greetings, Edward
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Mundorf M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil.
8)
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Hello,
Of course i did come across these caps. I have been trying to read between the lines and to me the jupiter and the duelund seem to be more my kind of thing. I am willing to sacrifice some detail. When i like to listen to music i like to enjoy. Not being aggitated to much because lots of recordings sounds so mediocre.
BUT first we will see how the pre amp sounds with the standard cap. Find out what will be the maximum dimensions of the cap. Find a supplier that can make a close pair and then just order.
Sincere greetings, edward
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Does anyone know what codec is used for the Dodd Buffer remote control board?
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Respectfully bumping a very old thread.
I was going through a cabinet and came across a pair of GE 6BZ7 tubes that I had bought for my Schiit Lyr. Since Gary stated that any tube with the same pinouts as the 6922 could be used in his buffer, I threw one in and fired it up.
Wow! I can't believe the detail! Listening to Ronnie Earl now... :thumb:
According to the datasheet, this tube is designed primarily for use as a cascode radio-frequency amplifier in very-high-frequency television tuners :o. Should I even be using this tube in my Dodd buffer? I'm assuming that if this $5 tube sounds this good it's okay to use.
Thanks in advance!
Mike
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Mike,
I very recently assembled my Dodd buffer kit... really like it with the EH 6H30! What other tubes have you tried?
Pete
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Mike,
I very recently assembled my Dodd buffer kit... really like it with the EH 6H30! What other tubes have you tried?
Pete
Hey Pete
I like the EH 6H30 as well. The only other tube until now was the JJ E88CC Gold Pin. I like the 6H30 more.
While going through my stash, I found a 12AX7. I flipped the switch from 6 to 12 volts and gave it a try. I got a loud scratchy sound when turning the volume control, took it out without really listening to it. Not sure if I have a bad tube or a problem with the buffer.
I think I have a 6N1P in my stash as well, so will give that a shot. The 6BZ7 surprised me! I've been told that it is a part of the 6DJ8 family, so I can use it without any concern.
Mike
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Mike,
I just happen to be starting a "Flea-amp" build and am ordering some tubes this week... I will follow your lead on the 6BZ7 and add it to my list.
I have only tried one other tube in my Dodd buffer, the 6H6N that Gary included with the kit. Your experience with your 12AX7 sounds similar to my experience with my 6H6N... I couldn't turn the buffer off soon enough... sounded terrible! Mr Dodd's buffer with the EH 6H30 sounds wonderful. My "critical-eared" daughter, after listening to the buffer for just a few minutes said "Wow, this reveals another layer of detail in the music"!
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For years I have been hearing how great the DIY Dodd Buffer is and was wondering if some one else has bought the rights to this design and is making new ones. I never see these buffer preamps in the used market. Is there a current equivalent product out there for sale? Let me know. Thanks.
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For years I have been hearing how great the DIY Dodd Buffer is and was wondering if some one else has bought the rights to this design and is making new ones. I never see these buffer preamps in the used market. Is there a current equivalent product out there for sale? Let me know. Thanks.
Danny Richie makes it sound like this could happen through GR Research.