[jmac]

Hi, I'm a newbie. I'm waiting for an NX Studio order. I'm going to need some help along the way. Glad to join the circle, thanks!

[mlundy57]

Welcome aboard. Ask away. That's what we're here for

Mike

[Hobbsmeerkat]

Welcome aboard and feel free the ask any questions you may have!
We're here to help! 

[jmac]

Hello, just a quick question. Has anyone used a pin nailer along with the glue before clamping up the flat packs? Thanks John

[Hobbsmeerkat]

I'm not aware of anyone who did that, but I think there was one person that used nails or screws if I remember correctly.

[Peter J]

Hello, just a quick question. Has anyone used a pin nailer along with the glue before clamping up the flat packs? Thanks John

Can I assume you're thinking of an aid to kinda hold things together till you get clamps on? And by pins you mean 23ga or similar?

IME, pins can shank out in weird ways on dense MDF, which Jay's flat packs are. The longer they are the worse things get. Aside from that, I've actually had them interfere with clamping and alignment. Also, if they're in eventual machining path, they're not kind to cutters. I like them for some things, but wouldn't use them in this case.

FWIW, when I first got a pinner, I tried to use in many applications that I eventually moved away from. They are useful, but like many tools, they have both strong and weak points.

[jmac]

Makes sense not to use it as the mdf is so dense . Thanks for the responses

[JWCoffman]

Hello, just a quick question. Has anyone used a pin nailer along with the glue before clamping up the flat packs? Thanks John

I tried it and just like Peter said, the dense MDF sent them all sorts of directions.  I then had to repair the ensuing blowout.  You're best bet is to invest in clamps if you don't already have some.

[cementhead]

I screwed my first kit together before gluing them. I smoothed everything out, auto body primer,base and clear coat,wet sanded and buffed them out. Every screw and seam fill is visible if you look close. I just finished up X-Statics and used no screws. I suppose if you were veneering them, it would be ok.

[jmac]

This question might have been asked before . Does the open baffle part of the NX Studio get any no rez? Thanks much.

[Peter J]

This question might have been asked before . Does the open baffle part of the NX Studio get any no rez? Thanks much.

Yes, both inside and out. Here you can see how I did it where it shows.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=172552.msg1824407#msg1824407

[jmac]

Thanks Peter J

[jmac]

Hi again with a another question. how much polyfill goes in each NX studio? how much polyfill goes in GR sealed sub kit two?

[Hobbsmeerkat]

In both cases, you will want them full enough to be "loosely" filled. With just a couple inches of airspace directly behind the woofers.

[jmac]

Thanks for the help. So far I'm pleased with the way the NX Studio/ sub kit 2 build is turning out. The flat packs for both are incredible and easy to work with. But here's where I jumped in before I thought it out. I primed the sub with a fast drying acrylic primer that dries hard and is easy to sand. Than an acrylic top coat. It really looks good. My question is, other than cosmetics will the acrylic compromise the cabinet in any way? Won't do the same on the monitors. Thanks, John

[nlitworld]

Thanks for the help. So far I'm pleased with the way the NX Studio/ sub kit 2 build is turning out. The flat packs for both are incredible and easy to work with. But here's where I jumped in before I thought it out. I primed the sub with a fast drying acrylic primer that dries hard and is easy to sand. Than an acrylic top coat. It really looks good. My question is, other than cosmetics will the acrylic compromise the cabinet in any way? Won't do the same on the monitors. Thanks, John

Should be a non-issue if you are speaking material longevity purposes, and only those persnickety acoustic guitar guys would get into debating the wood resonance characteristics between finishes. In other words, you should be just fine.

[jmac]

Hi all, thanks for all the help on my build . I'm almost done and will post some pictures soon. I think they are coming out pretty good  so far. I have question that I asked before but left something out. I know you put the no rez on the top of the open baffle but what about the sides of the open baffle on the NX studio? Also I need to extend the wires to the tweeters . It would make my install easier. Would a soldered extension degrade the signal? Thanks John

[Shives]

Hey all! Sorry, been a rough few months!!

Jamc..

To answer your last question… Yes! Adding or soldering on some wire extensions can add resistance to the circuit! If you can, I would run a single negative from tube connection, to network, to tweeter… (don’t have schematic.. don’t know if this tweeter is out of phase, but rule is still in place! The positive won’t be a single line from tube to network to tweeter… because the parts (cap resistors and such) break it up. Pay close attention to phase!

As far as the no res goes… I’ve seen people lay the full-top area that’s open bottom and sides with no res… I’ve also seen just the bottom. Think Peter has a good visual aid. I’m sure some photos are on the forums here. If you get stuck in the middle of the night, just search. Might work.

23ga nails, brads… Nope! As mentioned, they will shoot out the sides all goofy like! solid MDF or the lighter particle board I’ve seen same results! A good glue and clamp should work. Just to re-confirm the above.

[jmac]

Hi everyone, so I finally got the NX studio monitors done a couple months ago. After a couple small problems, they are finally sounding spectacular! My original crossovers had path resistors that were brand new but bad. I had them redone with Mills resistors. Everything is now working correctly, and they sound wonderful.

[Kaiju2189]

Very nice Jmac. They look amazing!