AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => Open Baffle Speakers => Topic started by: jparkhur on 11 Aug 2017, 08:28 pm
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While I wait for some other projects to materialize I contacted Tom and Ze've over at PAP. They gave some good information on their Trio 15, as I already had some full range 8 inch drivers in my hands. So this will be a home grown play by play of an inexpensive built with limited tools and parts. Feel free to ask any questions as it progresses. I started first with a basic mock up out of plywood so I could set all my points correctly.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166746)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166747)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166748)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166749)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166750)
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Here are the test cut parts with some trial stains and other oddities.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166751)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166752)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166753)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166754)
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Here are the final parts I am using. I chose to use cut offs and scraps to see what I could come up with. Most it will be cut away anyways.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166756)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166757)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166758)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=166759)
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Hello,
I am seriously seeking the build/assembly details of the XO for the PAP Open Baffle Trio15 with TangBand fullrange.
Would you kindly share the FULL details of the XO you plan to build, I will follow yr footsteps.
Where should I buy the parts and base circuit board??
Thanks and awaiting your kind reply.
If u want to email me personally, pls use st.sinned@gmail.com.
BRgds,
Stan
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Finished cutting holes and painting legs. I am using a clear coat for the panels.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167021)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167022)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167023)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167024)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167025)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167026)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167027)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167028)
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Hello,
I am seriously seeking the build/assembly details of the XO for the PAP Open Baffle Trio15 with TangBand fullrange.
Would you kindly share the FULL details of the XO you plan to build, I will follow yr footsteps.
Where should I buy the parts and base circuit board??
Thanks and awaiting your kind reply.
If u want to email me personally, pls use st.sinned@gmail.com.
BRgds,
Stan
Pm sent. Proprietary to PAP sorry I can't be of help.
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So which full ranges are you going to try out?
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Both the Dayton P220 and TB 1808
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I really like that baffle! It's cool visually, and should set off nicely with the balance of the material that holds that all together.
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Does the Minwax Antique Oil Finish change the color of the wood? Does it yellow with age? I have used Osmo Hardwax Oil in the past and it turned maple slightly yellow/orange as it aged.
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Some woodworkers use Boiled Linseed Oil as a finish. After the oil cures, they apply a paste wax on top to give an added layer of protection. Of course, there are other oil products that you can use as well. I cannot speak to the product that you are asking about in regards to yellowing with age. However, I can speak to using oil as a finish in general.
This finish will look beautiful in it’s first year, but it allows the wood to oxidize and is not very protective. A finish like this must be continuously maintained by de-waxing and re-oiling every 2 years. For me, this isn’t a practical finish for most people.
My go to combination is boiled linseed oil which I let dry for 5-7 days. After the BLO has completely dried I apply 5 coats of Waterlox with the last coat being gently handrubbed with 0000 steel wool which has been soaked in mineral oil (not mineral spirits!).
BTW, the work that is shown above is outstanding! :thumb:
Regards,
Randy
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Does the Minwax Antique Oil Finish change the color of the wood? Does it yellow with age? I have used Osmo Hardwax Oil in the past and it turned maple slightly yellow/orange as it aged.
I do not know. We will find out together
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Thoughts. As the 15 s are mounted from back do I paint the inner edges black?? Thoughts from all welcomed.
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Thoughts. As the 15 s are mounted from back do I paint the inner edges black?? Thoughts from all welcomed.
I think it would be easiest by far to leave the edges unpainted. How would you make a clear line between the inside edge and the face of the baffle? I also think not painting the inner edges would look best. Show a little end grain but sand the heck out of it. PureAudioProject does not paint the inside edges.
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Some more work. Stands are up, third coat on the boards.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167141)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167143)
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167149)
Thoughts. As the 15 s are mounted from back do I paint the inner edges black?? Thoughts from all welcomed.
I did my inner ring black, but it was a no brainer with the two blackened vertical grooves.
Your work is amazing.... :thumb:
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Jon/Perry, two good looking projects, thanks for sharing. :thumb:
Best,
Ed
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I'll touch them up today and wire them.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167261)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167263)
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Up and breaking in. Pretty good.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167316)
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My calc says baffle step is around 1250 hz. So I can adjust as needed if that is case.
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So I am it this project for about 1k, more with drivers and amps, I could save money and go with the none neo woofers but others have stated the sound better. I will take some time this week and break them in and change out with the TB driver as well. My only comparison will be GR Research servo subs and ob TB driver. Those subs are really tough to beat so I'll let you know.
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Currently xo at 200 hz with a 12 db roll off and no baffle step yet. I'll let them burn in but things sound promising so far.
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I have been experimenting with the xo and continue to like 200 with a 12 db roll. I have 25 watts going to woofers and 5 to full range. It is more than enough to play them loud. I have put a small rake on the back by removing one of the footers. Seems to help over all imaging since my ear height was a little low and my chair not so much. They have been running for almost 48 hours and seem to be smoothing out as time goes on. I have played everything from Adele, Social Distortion, opera, Jazz, The Dead to NIN- all souls really good. I have ordered measuring equipment and will post graphs when done.
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Currently xo at 200 hz with a 12 db roll off and no baffle step yet. I'll let them burn in but things sound promising so far.
There is no baffle step in an OB speaker system. You do not need a correction filter.
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Thanks and that may be why I like the way it sounds without it engaged. My lack of knowledge. I am dangerous to a point and then drop off. Ha. I figured in my head that it would still have some gain on the wider pieces coming around back.
Thanks again.
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This was in my head
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167403)
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Those instructions are intended for a boxed speaker. The discussion does not apply to an OB where the rear wave is not captured in a box.
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nice to see you again MKJ
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I did engage the shelving circuit to take care of the rise in the top end. I used 2500 and -4 db. We will see what comes if it. Here is a extremely basic graph at 1 meter between bottom driver and fr. I'll get a real mic tomorrow.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167432)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167433)
This is the spec graph
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Ok. I'm pretty much set after a few adjustments in gain over the lower end and some minor tweaking of a toe in. I'm really happy with these. They are super easy to make with limited skills and putting them together only requires a drill.
Over all sound quality is great for my ears. You can always switch out the mid panel for a ribbon or high end driver. The diy portion of this is really high and gives users some up grade ability in the future.
If you wanted to make a poor man version you could buy a Dayton PS 220, Eminence Alpha a15, Yung page amp and have the entire thing running for $500 or so. Even cheaper would be to only use one 15 sub on each side.
Issues, there are some when comparing to other speakers I have had. Nothing will touch much ears like. Neo 3 tweeted, just great. The full range is. It going to be as smooth at the top. Trade offs. The lower end is good but it won't go low 20 s compared
To the servo subs I have on hand. There is chest thumping bass but they are different. To each his own.
Imaging is good but I suspect some odd axis roll on this driver and to me I don't care because I always have the seat. They are great for larger rooms and I love ob speakers, there is just something about the openness.
Current system used:
Mac Mini, 16 gb ram, 8 tb external
iTunes and other pro software music systems
Pi Audio USB cable
IFi iDac2
iFi iTube2
Tourtuga Audio pre w/ external linear ps (thanks Trung)
Firstwatt B5 xo
Amp Camp Amp 1 with extra power filtering by Pi Audio
Firstwatt F5 diy for subs / Yung 200 plate amps (using both)
As will most of my builds I just wanted to see what I could do. On to the next one. I hear some people here are releasing some new build so looking forward to those. If anyone wants these, let me know.