BMW / help engine trouble

srb · « **Reply #40 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 08:18 pm »

Quote from: stlrman on 22 Dec 2015, 07:56 pm

Code read : Cylinder 4 misfire.
Spark plug issue?

Could be. Apparently the electronic diagnostics can't break down further whether it's a faulty spark plug or ignition coil. There are individual ignition coils for each cylinder and more often the coil itself is faulty. But the coils aren't too terribly expensive (~ $25 - $50 each) and replacement is a pretty straight forward two bolt procedure.

There have been a few people that have cured a misfire by simply cleaning the contact between coil and spark plug, but more often a faulty coil is the cause.

Steve

richidoo · « **Reply #41 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 08:19 pm »

Quote from: Bob in St. Louis on 22 Dec 2015, 06:04 pm

I assume some of the BMW engines are a 0W ("zero")?

Yes, 0W-40 is recommended in BMWs. Most cars spec 0W oil now, it's for the CAFE game.
I'd bet that thicker oil (in temperate climate) would benefit the engine longevity.

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #42 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 08:37 pm »

Oh yea. Put some 10w-30 in there and you'd eliminate your consumption issue.
Although I'm shocked to hear BMW coils are only $25-$50 each?!?!

Philistine · « **Reply #43 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 08:37 pm »

Reliability only counts for the vehicle you own.

I've got a 2005 V6 (60,000miles) Toyota Highlander that's needed a replacement transfer case seal ($1200), needs a new climate system, has had new brake rotors and pads, battery replacement, crappy fuel consumption and drives like a pensioners car that's showing its age. All these issues are prevalent on the Toyota owners websites, so much for Toyota reliability....
A 2006 BMW 330XI (60,000miles), new brake pads, new battery but still puts a smile on my face and gets better with age.

stlrman · « **Reply #44 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 08:42 pm »

Mechanic quoted me $200-$300. That seems high I think.
I don't work on cars but my neighbor does.
I saw a couple of YouTube videos, it looks straight forward.
Could PepBoys do something like this for much cheaper.
Am I doing damage by driving it like this. Car seems fine really .?

RDavidson · « **Reply #45 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 08:50 pm »

Quote from: Philistine on 22 Dec 2015, 08:37 pm

Reliability only counts for the vehicle you own.

Indeed, but one need only pick up a copy of Consumer Reports to at least help ensure that the chances of getting a reliable vehicle is in one's favor. Of course there's always the chance of getting a lemon just like there is always the chance of getting....uh....whatever the opposite of a lemon is.

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #46 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 08:57 pm »

Cherry

srb · « **Reply #47 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 09:07 pm »

Quote from: stlrman on 22 Dec 2015, 08:42 pm

Could PepBoys do something like this for much cheaper.
Am I doing damage by driving it like this. Car seems fine really .?

If it is in fact an ignition coil and/or spark plug, that's a fairly low skill level repair that any competent mechanic can do. I would be more worried about a Pep Boys or similar auto service using substandard generic parts and would feel more comfortable with OEM Bosch replacements.

Driving with a misfiring cylinder probably isn't the best idea as unburned gasoline tends to wash away oil from the cylinder walls and could also possibly cause the catalytic converter to overheat.

Steve

drewm · « **Reply #48 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 09:57 pm »

Quote from: stlrman on 22 Dec 2015, 08:42 pm

Mechanic quoted me $200-$300. That seems high I think.
I don't work on cars but my neighbor does.
I saw a couple of YouTube videos, it looks straight forward.
Could PepBoys do something like this for much cheaper.
Am I doing damage by driving it like this. Car seems fine really .?

Yes, you are overheating your catalytic converter by sending raw gas to it, it will eventually fail. That part is closer to $1000 to replace when it goes out. Why don't you get a parts cost/labor cost breakdown and then you can see how much it would really cost you to do yourself.

Also, you bought a BMW, you need to expect they get very expensive out of warranty. Most of my friends spend a few grand a year keeping them running once they get out of warranty.

Also seeing the beginning of this thread where you had to add oil and coolant to your car and you have a stuttering issue, I'm likely thinking that you have a head gasket issue. To fix that usually is around $2-4k. Can you check to make sure there's no oil in your coolant or coolant in your oil? You make things much worse if you run your car like that and you can overheat and blow the entire engine if left long enough.

SteveFord · « **Reply #49 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 11:55 pm »

I'm not a car guy but I hear that zero weight oil is causing problems for a lot of the manufacturers. Maybe all of them?
I wonder why...

mfsoa · « **Reply #50 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 11:56 pm »

Quote

Also, you bought a BMW, you need to expect they get very expensive out of warranty. Most of my friends spend a few grand a year keeping them running once they get out of warranty.

We coined the term "$1000 oil change" for our 2000 323iT because there's always something else goin on that needs attention. What a great car though, aside from the maintenance expense.

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #51 on:** 22 Dec 2015, 11:57 pm »

Quote from: SteveFord on 22 Dec 2015, 11:55 pm

I'm not a car guy but I hear that zero weight oil is causing problems for a lot of the manufacturers. Maybe all of them?
I wonder why...

It's rubbing alcohol compared to molasses, like most "old school" cars.... (to paint a visual)

richidoo · « **Reply #52 on:** 23 Dec 2015, 12:59 am »

Thin oil is used to improve the Combined Average Fuel Efficiency for the manufacturer. I guess it's easier to pump through the engine = less parasitic losses? The better fuel economy they get as a brand, the more profit they bank. Higher CAFE allows them to increase the ratio of sales of 750s to 325s. Thank you, EPA!

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #53 on:** 23 Dec 2015, 01:16 am »

Oh yea, no doubt a lack of friction helps fuel economy. It also helps that crankshaft when it's "paddling" through the oil pan with a lower viscosity liquid to trudge through (which also helps).

jpm · « **Reply #54 on:** 23 Dec 2015, 03:18 am »

Quote from: RDavidson on 22 Dec 2015, 08:50 pm

Indeed, but one need only pick up a copy of Consumer Reports to at least help ensure that the chances of getting a reliable vehicle is in one's favor. Of course there's always the chance of getting a lemon just like there is always the chance of getting....uh....whatever the opposite of a lemon is.

Here's another useful resource:

http://tradeinqualityindex.com/

JerryM · « **Reply #55 on:** 23 Dec 2015, 03:34 am »

Quote from: jpm on 23 Dec 2015, 03:18 am

Here's another useful resource:

http://tradeinqualityindex.com/

Very cool; thanks!

RDavidson · « **Reply #56 on:** 23 Dec 2015, 03:59 am »

Quote from: JerryM on 23 Dec 2015, 03:34 am

Very cool; thanks!

+1 Thank you!

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #57 on:** 23 Dec 2015, 01:25 pm »

Ran across this BMW video this morning. Seemed appropriate for this thread.

https://youtu.be/vGn_oabArN0

Bob2 · « **Reply #58 on:** 23 Dec 2015, 01:53 pm »

Quote from: Bob in St. Louis on 23 Dec 2015, 01:16 am

Oh yea, no doubt a lack of friction helps fuel economy. It also helps that crankshaft when it's "paddling" through the oil pan with a lower viscosity liquid to trudge through (which also helps).

I would think BMW would employ a windage tray to prevent crankshaft contact with the oil. I also wonder, if BMW is so concerned about this why they haven't gone to a dry sump system.

Bob in St. Louis · « **Reply #59 on:** 23 Dec 2015, 02:02 pm »

Apparently they're not concerned, since they say a quart in 750 miles is acceptable.