AudioCircle
Other Stuff => Archived Manufacturer Circles => Wolf Ear Audio => Topic started by: Wolf Ear Audio on 18 Apr 2018, 05:07 pm
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I've always built my amps the way I wanted and the way I designed them and without asking very many people what kind of parts they wanted in it.
I was thinking of doing something a bit more interactive for my first venture into the very high end. My first amp is just to dip my toes in the water and see how it sounds, which is why I wanted it to be a headphone amp with low power output and using only 6N6P tubes for both voltage gain and output.
Now, I've already ordered some very nice silver output transformers and planned on using the same pwoer supply chokes I use in the Makoyi, but I wanted everyone's input on a few other key parts.
I)For coupling caps, do you prefer Teflon, Oil or plain film types? And which ones? We will only be using 0.1uf values here.
II) For rectification, do you prefer a SS rectifier with large electrolytic caps for filtering or a tube rectifier and film caps?
III) If you answered tube rectifier for the above, what kinds of power supply caps are your favorite?
I also encourage any other dialogue about this and will answer any questions you have :)
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I've tried a bunch of coupling caps in my tube amp, tube headphone amp and preamp. IME the Jupiter Copper Foil 600v is the best sounding cap out there. Much better than the teflon caps, PIO, or other film types. Dueland caps are slightly different sounding (a bit warmer), but not better sounding. And of course Dueland is like 3x the cost of the Jupiters.
I like tube rectification - gives another option for tailoring the sound to my preference.
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I've tried a bunch of coupling caps in my tube amp, tube headphone amp and preamp. IME the Jupiter Copper Foil 600v is the best sounding cap out there. Much better than the teflon caps, PIO, or other film types. Dueland caps are slightly different sounding (a bit warmer), but not better sounding. And of course Dueland is like 3x the cost of the Jupiters.
I like tube rectification - gives another option for tailoring the sound to my preference.
Yeah? I've never tried Dueland because the price is so prohibitive, but I've used the original Jupiter caps and they were very nice.
Maybe the Copper foil is the way to go?
As for tube rectification, this circuit will only pull about 80mA or so total, so we have basically all the tube rectifiers available. I usually use the 5Y3 in this type of scenario because of easy availability and low NOS prices. What is your preference for rectifier tubes?
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Yeah? I've never tried Dueland because the price is so prohibitive, but I've used the original Jupiter caps and they were very nice.
Maybe the Copper foil is the way to go?
As for tube rectification, this circuit will only pull about 80mA or so total, so we have basically all the tube rectifiers available. I usually use the 5Y3 in this type of scenario because of easy availability and low NOS prices. What is your preference for rectifier tubes?
Yep, copper Jupiters are a big step up over the originals. Like I said, Dueland level (at least in my system).
Rectifier tubes - only have much experience with the 5ar4 and the 6X5. If the 5Y3 sounds good and has low cost NOS options then that's better than the 5ar4, which is ridiculously expensive for NOS.
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Yep, copper Jupiters are a big step up over the originals. Like I said, Dueland level (at least in my system).
Rectifier tubes - only have much experience with the 5ar4 and the 6X5. If the 5Y3 sounds good and has low cost NOS options then that's better than the 5ar4, which is ridiculously expensive for NOS.
NOS 5Y3 tubes are amazing for their price (as low as 5 dollars, but usually 10-15). The problem is that their limitations make them only really good for preamps and headphone amps since they can't really handle high currents.
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Alright, so coupling caps are in now.
I'm either going to use some nice can oil caps from ASC for the power supply, or maybe some dry film in a can from SCR. I'm going to try both to see what I prefer :)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=179303)
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Re: the Jupiters - nice choice!!
They go through a fairly long break in. At first they sound flat and hyper detailed. For about 30 hours. Then they sound dark and veiled for another 50 hours or so. Then they should just "OK" but not great for the next 100 hours or so. After that, they bloom and sound amazing. Just be patient!! :thumb:
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+1 for Jupiter Cu caps
If I can ever get my wife to let me listen to my cans for more than 5 minutes without an interruption (really), I may contact you about a headphone amp. My HD650s have been continuously boxed up for 3+ years :(, so don't get overly excited.
Regards,
Michael
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II) For rectification, do you prefer a SS rectifier with large electrolytic caps for filtering or a tube rectifier and film caps?
III) If you answered tube rectifier for the above, what kinds of power supply caps are your favorite?
SS diodes for DC rectification made a lot of noise, as HPs are more detailed than speakers SS diodes are a drawnback, I dont know the sound of caps to say what is my favorite :duh:
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SS diodes for DC rectification made a lot of noise, as HPs are more detailed than speakers SS diodes are a drawnback, I dont know the sound of caps to say what is my favorite :duh:
That's true, but you do have the option to use much larger capacitors for filtering with SS, so that's a plus :)
I'm gonna go with tube rectification and probably canned oil caps from ASC, though.
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That's true, but you do have the option to use much larger capacitors for filtering with SS, so that's a plus :)
I'm gonna go with tube rectification and probably canned oil caps from ASC, though.
That is nice. Do you have any indirect filamentary tube rect favorite?
(half or full wave).
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There's at least the EZ80 and EZ81 tubes that I like for indirectly heated rectifiers :thumb:
EZ81's are good for small amps and EZ80's are good for preamps or possibly this headphone amp. I'm still deciding if I will use the EZ80 or 5Y3 for rectification.
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Looks good. Do you think half wave tubes as 6D22 are a drawback?
Since is need two of them.
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Looks good. Do you think half wave tubes as 6D22 are a drawback?
Since is need two of them.
Yeah, I would probably never use any half wave rectifier tubes.
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Hm noted, thanks for help :thumb:
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It's starting to feel like Christmas here :)
I've received most of the parts I am using in this amp now. I decided to go with a different volume switch than my own this time, one that has many more steps while still being a ladder attenuator.
It's very nice feeling and has a very large range of attenuation (did I mention it's also HUGE :lol: ).
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=179704)
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This looks the Khozmo? I also use it, the 100k log.
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This looks the Khozmo? I also use it, the 100k log.
It is Khozmo. They make a solid attenuator for a good price and carry ladder types now, so it was an easy choice for me :)
On another good note, I got all my parts in now for this amp (yay!) and will be designing my chassis when I get a chance.
I'll probably be using a similar aesthetic to my Kitoki, with a top plate similar to that of the copper vein I used in my high end headphone amps (maybe silver vein/ ore this time) :thumb:
What kind of wood would work well here? Maybe some Wenge?
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Congratulations Wolf.
Poland is big source of quality hi-fi manufacturers.
Not need use copper amp table, its expensive and heat dissipations is near the same as aluminium, I could use 3 or 5mm alu, just a idea.
Real wood for base is good looking and absorb transformers vibrations, there is 3 flavors: soft woods, hard woods and both in the same frame.
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Congratulations Wolf.
Poland is big source of quality hi-fi manufacturers.
Not need use copper amp table, its expensive and heat dissipations is near the same as aluminium, I could use 3 or 5mm alu, just a idea.
Real wood for base is good looking and absorb transformers vibrations, there is 3 flavors: soft woods, hard woods and both in the same frame.
I should have been more clear. I was just asking what finish you thought would look nice, since the top plate is always aluminum w/ powdercoat (it's just easier this way since I've had no luck with anodizing companies).
I was more interested in what type of wood people like though. I usually use walnut for cost/ aesthetic reasons but my wood guy wanted to use something higher end, which is why I suggested Wenge, etc. My chassis have always been overbuilt/ heavy and vibrations have never been a worry.
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Can you make the it so the amp has both single ended and balanced outputs? I know a lot of guys over on head-fi in particular have balanced wired headphones. A switch that lets you select between standard phono plug and 4 pin XLR (or even dual 3 pin XLRs) would probably help with a sale.
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I should have been more clear. I was just asking what finish you thought would look nice, since the top plate is always aluminum w/ powdercoat (it's just easier this way since I've had no luck with anodizing companies).
I was more interested in what type of wood people like though. I usually use walnut for cost/ aesthetic reasons but my wood guy wanted to use something higher end, which is why I suggested Wenge, etc. My chassis have always been overbuilt/ heavy and vibrations have never been a worry.
If you're going with a silver case, then a light wood will look best. Black case and cherry or maybe even purple heart would look amazing.
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If you're going with a silver case, then a light wood will look best. Black case and cherry or maybe even purple heart would look amazing.
Purple Heart sounds like an awesome choice, hadn't even considered it!
As for balanced outputs, I was planning on including them for convenience, just like the Makoyi amp. :)
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OK, for what I know most of audiophiles like mid brown wood looks, no clear wood, no dark dyers, no paint. As you know the looks of the wood no depends on the wood type but what dye was used, so I rec you use the cheapest real wood with a mid brown colour tone like it below:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=109331)
I not like painted alu, do you like clear or brushed aluminum? its less cost than paint. If the wood base is thick if can filters the vibrations of the transformers to a lower noise floor and microphony. I was not referring to the tightening of the bolts.
Certainly tube amps fans like to choose the wood and the color of the wood so this is important at the purchase moment, so I suggest you let the wood choice to the buyer as some like it hot, other cold, warm etc
EDITED
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Finally got (almost) everything in! Here's a sneak peak at what's going in:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=181020)
(those huge cans are the bypass caps!)
I'm going fully regulated for both the B+ and heater power supplies while still being 5Y3 rectified and I will be using 6N6P tubes for both the voltage gain and output tubes :thumb:
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Hey there, just wanted to post again after being gone sick for so long. Here's a quick teaser pick of the new amp until I get a better (Padauk base, though the photo makes it look more orange than red). Will likely end up using something darker when I put the listing up:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=183605)
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Nice, any photo underside?
I have a box full of these 6N6P Novosibirsk,
wonder if they are compatible with the 6N1P/6N2P/6922-?
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Nice, any photo underside?
I have a box full of these 6N6P Novosibirsk,
wonder if they are compatible with the 6N1P/6N2P/6922-?
It normally would be, but the dissipation would be too high for those tubes and they would live a very short life.
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Thanks you most kind :thumb:
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This project has for the most part been abandoned since the result was not fully worth the investment. However, if someone is interested in the single amp I detailed here they can message me for details.
However, it did bring about a new preamp/ headphone amp idea. This one is a hybrid, however and uses a one 6SN7 tube per channel for the driver and an IRF610 Mosfet wired as a source follower for the output and has a very similar overall topology to the Natayo.
Some more details about it:
It is a fully single ended design and has very wide audio bandwidth (greater than 20hz-50khz@+/-1<db) since there are no output transformers
I used an Alps Blue Velvet potentiometer for the volume control and all Neutrik parts for the input and output connectors
One pair of RCA inputs, one pair of RCA outputs and a 1/4" SE jack headphone output
Output power is about 2.5W into 32 ohms and can drive very long preamp cables if needed
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=192519)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=192520)
This amp is pictured with a Padauk chassis but will actually be shipping with a walnut chassis.
I made a few top plates exactly likes this but I plan on making a couple changes to it such as adding an output selector switch for the headphones and RCA outputs and also swapping the placement of the volume knob and headphone output. I plan to sell the new headphone amp (with mentioned changes) for 975USD with free shipping in North America.
However I would like to clear out the couple top plates I have left for this current design pictured before ordering new top plates and making a page on my website.
If anyone would like one made with the pictured top plate I will charge 850USD and also include free shipping within North America. I only have two of these top plates so it would be first come first serve for anyone interested.