Tubes of another sort. But 100% made by me.
Tubes of another sort. But 100% made by me.
What is that?Do a Google search for "Nixie clock". Neat stuff. :D
Gustavo,This amp not mine, just found this nice amp on YouTube. I apologize, reading the thread title again looks Iam out of topic so.
Is this amp yours? It is an interesting design, and I refer directly to the aesthetic not the circuit as I know nothing of the circuit, but that bright blue LED lit plexiglass section would get on my nerves in about, oh, 30 seconds. But I'm in the anti-bright blue LED camp. If I were to build the chassis like that I would simply opt for a color I prefer. It certainly is a beauty regardless.
Best,
Jake
Next to the big tube (851 Triode) is LP :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=45496)
The 851 was made exclusively for the Navy in the early years. It has a 750 watt plate rating. It is 18" tall and 6" across. I am building a pair of single ended amps with them running 3000 volts on the plates and it will produce 160 watts a class A power! :green: It is a very rare tube indeed!!! It has taken me 6 years to find what I needed for the amps and I don't even know if they are good! :scratch:
Gary
Not a problem. As most of you know I design my own transformers and then have them made for me. The transformers for these amps of course are single ended.
These particular transformers are rated for 200 watts! They can take 600 ma dc in the core and they weigh in at 65 pounds each!!! :thumb: The measured bandwidth @ 160 watts output is -1db from12hz-47khz! :thumb: This is with 3KV on the plates. They have 4 and 8 ohm taps.
Gary
Those cost me nearly $1K for 2 of them. In single ended operation it takes a huge amount of iron to achieve a good clean low end! Winding technics have a ton to do with the good hi end response. I will not disclose my winding specs! :nono:
Gary
ABSOLUTELY not available to the diy market!!! :nono: I am not going be responsible for someone vaporizing themselves!
I have had extensive workings with voltages up to and above 100KV capable of several amps and the high voltages do not bother me. Sorry I will not let these out for sure! :nono: The 3Kv supply for these is capable of well over 2 amps, definitely lethal! The caps are 100uf @5KV laser pulse caps capable of delivering pulses in excess of 5000 amps! :thumb: Deadly stuff for sure.
gary
ABSOLUTELY not available to the diy market!!! :nono: I am not going be responsible for someone vaporizing themselves!
I have had extensive workings with voltages up to and above 100KV capable of several amps and the high voltages do not bother me. Sorry I will not let these out for sure! :nono: The 3Kv supply for these is capable of well over 2 amps, definitely lethal! The caps are 100uf @5KV laser pulse caps capable of delivering pulses in excess of 5000 amps! :thumb: Deadly stuff for sure.
gary
Here is a pic of my recently completed Bottlehead Stereomour............Ahh....so that's your amp pictured on the Hawthorne site. I wondered who owned that. I think it looks likes like a caboose.
Ahh....so that's your amp pictured on the Hawthorne site. I wondered who owned that. I think it looks likes like a caboose.Yes Bob, that is me spamming the net with my latest project. I hadn't seen the caboose but now that you mention it I do. Well, my dad worked for the railroad for 30+ years so a caboose is appropriate (of course I think they had already done away with cabooses, caboosi(?), whatever, by then).
Very cool.
Bob
Not a problem. As most of you know I design my own transformers and then have them made for me. The transformers for these amps of course are single ended.
These particular transformers are rated for 200 watts! They can take 600 ma dc in the core and they weigh in at 65 pounds each!!! :thumb: The measured bandwidth @ 160 watts output is -1db from12hz-47khz! :thumb: This is with 3KV on the plates. They have 4 and 8 ohm taps.
Gary
ABSOLUTELY not available to the diy market!!! :nono: I am not going be responsible for someone vaporizing themselves!
I have had extensive workings with voltages up to and above 100KV capable of several amps and the high voltages do not bother me. Sorry I will not let these out for sure! :nono: The 3Kv supply for these is capable of well over 2 amps, definitely lethal! The caps are 100uf @5KV laser pulse caps capable of delivering pulses in excess of 5000 amps! :thumb: Deadly stuff for sure.
gary
Skeeter99 posted this amp before, but not it's at my house and all lit up. :)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc121/woofersus/4a123c69.jpg)
Here's one of my rather-industrial-looking Atma-Sphere M-60s.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k220/jeffreybehr/0%20Atma-Sphere/06Jun2011_glowing_1280w.jpg)
This was a Mk.2.3 but is now a (current-version) 3.1. This was using just one Tung-Sol round-plate 6SN7GT with the Chinese originals in the other 3 spots. I'm now using a gain-reduction plug to replace V2 (for a Voltage-gain reduction of about 12dB) and TSRPs in the other 3 positions. Have ordered 2-dozen 6N13S/6AS7G output tubes from Russia; we'll see how that goes.
This was a Mk.2.3 but is now a (current-version) 3.1. This was using just one Tung-Sol round-plate 6SN7GT with the Chinese originals in the other 3 spots. I'm now using a gain-reduction plug to replace V2 (for a Voltage-gain reduction of about 12dB) and TSRPs in the other 3 positions. Have ordered 2-dozen 6N13S/6AS7G output tubes from Russia; we'll see how that goes.
Jeffery,
You have enough power from the M-60's with the 5A's? Yes; plenty. The music nevers sounds clipped or compressed.
Nice picture BTW. TYVM.
George
Are you guys using a tripod to hold your cameras steady during the long exposures? I've got a Nikon D40 and I can never hold the camera still enough for decent night shots.A tripod would be ideal for some of the unusual lighting situations seen here. If you don't have a tripod, you can set the D40 on a table, or any other solid surface. Also, use the delayed timer setting. That way, you won't be shaking the camera when the shutter opens.
Audio Mirror Eargasm 45wpc SET monos. Full Class A glorious tube sound.Cityjim:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=51776)
cityjim
These are the T1610 tubes from my Double Kronzillas. Old world charm.Hi,
Heres 4 channels of an active 4 way speaker I'm buildingGreat copper chassis, eficient colling too.
Cheers
Heres 4 channels of an active 4 way speaker I'm building
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/malcolm_05/Raven%20R1%20amp/IMG_6391.jpg)
Pre-amp & power supply
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/malcolm_05/pre%20amp/diyfi003.jpg)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/malcolm_05/pre%20amp/diyfi004.jpg)
My old dac
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g158/malcolm_05/pre%20amp/diyfi001.jpg)
Cheers
Hi,The Kronzillas have a very wide, deep, open soundstage. Being SET, they have excellent microdetail as well as lots of power. There's no overly lush "tubey" sound, but not a lean sound either-- in my system, very neutral. I have them running the mid/tweeters of my VR5-Anniversary speakers with a pair of Spectron Musician III Mk2 monoblocks (with Bybee and V-cap upgrades) on the bass. The Krons and Spectrons integrate very well. I don't hear any sense of transitioning between the two amps.
As you would describe the sound of this amp??
Thanks
Nice! :thumb:HI Bob
I love the copper, especially the brace/straps on the caps. You a steampunk fan?
Bob
Awesome!!!
Great copper chassis, eficient colling too.Thanks guys ,there are case's to go over the chassis .I haven't finished sanding them
Congratulations for this project, I wish I could do something like this.
Regards
Thanks guys ,there are case's to go over the chassis .I haven't finished sanding themYou deserve your own thread, those are cool. In the case that you start your own build thread (and I hope you do...) please send a link.
You deserve your own thread, those are cool. In the case that you start your own build thread (and I hope you do...) please send a link.HI Bob
Bob
The Kronzillas have a very wide, deep, open soundstage. Being SET, they have excellent microdetail as well as lots of power. There's no overly lush "tubey" sound, but not a lean sound either-- in my system, very neutral. I have them running the mid/tweeters of my VR5-Anniversary speakers with a pair of Spectron Musician III Mk2 monoblocks (with Bybee and V-cap upgrades) on the bass. The Krons and Spectrons integrate very well. I don't hear any sense of transitioning between the two amps.Thanks Kernelbob for these detailed first hand report.
HI BobLinky? :wink:
I do have a build thread but its on another forum .
Hey 56oval,
Way cool amps! I'm with Bob on this one, please post a link to the build thread. It's OK to post links to another forum in this forum, at least as far as I know. And thanks for the pics!
Jake
Linky? :wink:
Thanks again for the pics. Good looking stuff you've got there.
Bob
Dodd mono block :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=56180)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=56181)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=56183)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=61822)
Speakers are out of site but they are GR Research OB-5s and a REL Strata III subwoofer
Bob Carver "Rootbeer 180" monoblocks, the predecessor to the Cherry 180 currently available.
(http://thecarversite.com/yetanotherforum/uploadimg/20101110104449282.jpg)
(http://thecarversite.com/yetanotherforum/uploadimg/20101110104411415.jpg)
(http://thecarversite.com/yetanotherforum/uploadimg/20110706101822214.jpg)
(http://thecarversite.com/yetanotherforum/uploadimg/20110706101932675.jpg)
I prefer Carver metal knob, these you show are many associated with the Les Paul guitar.
My taste would be a wood knob, for tube amps the traditional chicken head look very good.
Wow. you guys are bashing this pour guy over his knob.
Hell, if I had a spare, I'd send you one dude.
Thank heavens we've got to the bottom of the Great Carver Knob Controversy!
I'd take them even if the knob was made out of a varnished packing peanut.
Here's a shot I just took of my VAC Phi 300.1 with its new front end - NOS Ken Rad VT-231s from the 40s. I tried a few long exposures in the dark while 'painting' the face with a flashlight. I'm going to work on this technique some more and I'll hopefully add a better picture.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=63415)
<snip>
I know it's heresy to discuss solid state in this circle.
<snip>
MORE PICTURE .... LESS WORDS
:wink:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=63427)
Hmmm, what do I need to do to get the photo here to look like the one on my PC? What I see in this post looks like crap by comparison.
A while back I was telling a fella from Australia about the history behind the paper wrapped bottles of Worcestershire sauce.
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/BobinStLouis/Non-Home%20Theater%20stuff/DSC_0156.jpg)
Quote from the net:
The famous paper wrap. In 1837, Lea & Perrins first began exporting Worcestershire Sauce around the world by boat. The lengthy and often rough sea voyages caused some of the bottles to break. The practice of wrapping each bottle in a paper wrap was devised to protect the bottles and prevent damage during transit. Although no longer technically necessary, the custom has and the paper wrap has come to symbolize the rich heritage and premium quality of Lea & Perrins, a tradition dating back to 1835.
The paper was enough protection to prevent the bottles from breaking?
Aparently 100 years ago, it was. :dunno: :lol:
It was likely a much heavier weight paper in those golden times.
The paper was enough protection to prevent the bottles from breaking?Seems to me, folding paper in the bottle was to protect the bottle from sunbathing, sauces can ferment if too warm.
Seems to me, folding paper in the bottle was to protect the bottle from sunbathing, sauces can ferment if too warm.
With olive oil happens the same thing, it must be bottled in a dark glass bottle, because the light ''kill'' the nutritional qualities of the oil. :thumb:
Hey Steve,
I like the way they do it up in Canada - nice nudie shot (she has really nice symmetry). :thumb:
I guess this is the best photo I managed last night and my son stitched it together out of two (the long exposure for tube glow is way too much for the meter - took a quicker shot just for the meter to overlay the overexposed one).
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=63436)
I put the bars back on tonight. I'm gonna work on getting a really good shot. A smart person would write down the counts (total exposure & flashlight sweep time) - I guess I thought I'd remember. :lol:
Hmmm, what do I need to do to get the photo here to look like the one on my PC? What I see in this post looks like crap by comparison.
Not the best picture, but here's my GM70 SET from Sean Casper; we call her "Natasha". About 12-13WPC. Those are copper lined GM70s.Hello Kgcdc,
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=66546)
Hello Kgcdc,
Nice amp, congratulations.
Would you inform something about the sound quality of this amp??
The output transformer seems a EDCOR, what is the model??
Do you had a link to this tube amp builder??
Thanks
No,Ericus,this is what the title (Let's see your tubes) is.
I made some nice use of Russian Mig tubes in this VGP
Gary
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=67940)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=67941)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=67942)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=67943)
Mullard ECC83 date code 1600,one of the best sounding X7 so far.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=69323)
The most valuable Ecc83.
Mullard ecc83 black plate made in 1953
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=69339)
Finally got around to taking a picture of the one tube I have in my system (Peachtree Audio Nova): A 6DJ8 made at General Electric’s Owensboro (Kentucky) plant during the 43rd week of 1962 (thankfully, I have a few spares).
This is what the tube looks like while playing Kind Of Blue:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=69565)
I've never seen Mullard black plates, only heard about them. Sir, you are a God! :bowdown:Hi,Paul,personally I don't like these black plate Mullard as they sounds a bit bright and thin compare to the 1600 date code.Another black plate valve which I really like is the Brimar 12ax7 which I am using it on my amplify, so no regret even you never heard them before.
Hi,Paul,personally I don't like these black plate Mullard as they sounds a bit bright and thin compare to the 1600 date code.Another black plate valve which I really like is the Brimar 12ax7 which I am using it on my amplify, so no regret even you never heard them before.Sorry shoud be amplifier, :oops:
k.c
Hi Mike,
I reviewed the Peachtree iNova for Stereotimes and that is not the factory tube. How do you like the GE? Have you tried other vintage 6DJ8s with the Nova?
Cheers,
Paul
Mullard EL84 disc getter,the best sounding EL84 ever made,probably.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=70052)
My Cary SLI-80 F1 Signature glowing after an evening of music.LOVE THIS AMP! Had mine for 10 years and still enjoying it immensely.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=70298)
My ECC81 CollectionThis black base is baquelite or what??
Another Mullard earlier version date code R650 R6D with square getter sitting 30 degree on top mica.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=71054)
Your posts have been a true education, AdrianC. Thank you for posting. :thumb:Hi,Ericus,my pleasure :oops:
Hi FM, not all of them are NOS (I wish they were) , NOS type 50 are very hard to find nowadays... The white numbers are just markings for measurement results, can be cleaned easily :thumb:Thanks for inform bro. :D
Thanks for inform bro. :DYou're welcome my friend,more to come
You're welcome my friend,more to comeSorry wrong replied :duh:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=67738)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=67738)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=67738)
Hi adrianc,Hi,J,yes these are B65 but the grey glass have few different version(different mica).I don't like them as the clear glass sounds too bright and the grey one have more body in the mid and bottom but just not enough to earn my recommendation,to me,the best sounding 6SN7 is the STC later Brimar CV1988 which sounds beutiful balance from top to bottom,be-careful when using ECC32 as they are not 100% direct substitute .The clear glass B65 are getting very expensive and one sold last month for £252.00.I got quite a few ECC32 and had tried on my Leak TL12.1 but the sound just not right,may be you can try some Mullard ECC33 short black base which sounds smooth and musical,here are some Brimar 6SN7 for you
Are those B65? They are very expensive to get nowadays, how do you like them compared to other 6SN7s? I've never listened to them and a bit hesitant to spend money to try as I would rather buy ECC32 Mullard brown base (I like the ECC32 the best amongst 6SN7s I've tried).
Thanks,
J
PS: You've got amazing collection of tubes, respect! :thumb:
to me,the best sounding 6SN7 is the STC later Brimar CV1988 which sounds beutiful balance from top to bottom,
Regards
Adrian
Obviously everything is system dependent, but I found the CV1988s to be too lush. I was using them in a DAC along with a tubed amp. They just didn't seem to have enough drive and detail.Hi,DM,totally agreed with you,nothing is perfect that's why I'm using different ECC83 in my system,I had three version of ECC32,round hat getter ,UFO getter and rectangular getter,I prefer the UFO version(like a flying disc) which just have the right balance and speed,as you said, it all depend on the system.
Adrian, have you found a big difference in the various ECC32s? Any preferences?
Thanks Adrian. I will have to check mine to see which getters they have.Hi,Dm,I don't have any 6F8G as they need an adapter and all of them are US made (don't know why no British).Do you prefer them than any other 6SN7s? or do they sounds more up front and analysis?
What's your take on 6F8Gs? Any preferences?
I will let you know once I get the pair that I bought. I have heard good things about them.Thanks Dm,yes I'm live in England.
I take it you are located in Europe, or the UK specifically?
Mr. Orange,Thanks!
What did you use to take those photos with?
Those are just beautiful shots.
I have too many tubes to photograph in one pic. I have a tall Sears toolbox with all my small envelopes and many large boxes with all my big bottles. Guess I've done some collecting. I probably have only 5 12Ax7 types total. Who needs those buggers?
I need those buggers! Watcha got?Hi,Ericus You and me like these buggers because we are both valve lovers,don't understand why people see valves as buggers but still collect them?
The entire Manley family is pretty interesting.
David married a young rock and roller biker girlie, EveAnna, they founded VTL, they then opened Manley and then David split.
EveAnna runs Manley and has since remarried and Luke (David's son from a previous marriage) runs VTL.
Here's some non-soap opera reading material on the guy who got the ball rolling:
http://www.gate.net/~vital/www_manl.htm
http://www.stereophile.com/interviews/david_manley_tubes_logic_amp_audiophile_sound/
http://www.stereophile.com/content/david-manley-tubes-logic-amp-audiophile-sound-page-2
You dont see it everyday:I will quote myself> I was told today by a Russian tube expert that all Rusky military tubes are avaliable to civilian custumers. :thumb:
You think the double triode 6C33 is a big tube(yeah), so this image is the 6C42C tube, a 6C33 descendant, it is a Triple Triode tube with output impedance of 65 ohms, restrict to military custumers.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=73229)
WireNut,
That looks familiar.
How do you like it?
Hey!Hi,SET Man,understand that post valves with amps will be better than just valves but unfortunate I don't have enough amps to display all of my collection,so I better stop posting valves pictures just in case someone though I'm just want to show all of my valves,so no more valve pictures from me.
Well, how about some tubes in action picture? :wink:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8318/7884885926_5157e1b80f_z.jpg)
Take care,
Buddy :thumb:
Hi,SET Man,understand that post valves with amps will be better than just valves but unfortunate I don't have enough amps to display all of my collection,so I better stop posting valves pictures just in case someone though I'm just want to show all of my valves,so no more valve pictures from me.
All the best
adrianc, do post pics of you tube collection. It is very informative to me and others here.
Hey!Hi,SET Man,do apology my misunderstanding,the reason why I post valve picture is to giving more details of some of the vintage valves to someone might needed.All of these vintage valves are getting very very expensive now(thanks to the wealthy audiophile from China) so a helpful information is nice before you spend your hard earn money.
Don't get me wrong. This were not aiming at you or anyone else. I just have the picture of my 845 glowing that's all. And 845 is one of the brightest so you know for sure is in action.
I have to admit every time I see pics of your tubes I always feel jealous and wish I have all those tubes myself. :green:
adrianc, do post pics of you tube collection. It is very informative to me and others here.
Take care,
Buddy :thumb:
+1. I'd also love some close-up pics of the innards of some of these rare tubes you have. For my education :thumb:Hi,Ericus,how are you and thank you very much,will keep posting valves picture and hope you will like them.
I hate to say I am contemplating replacing my tube system with solid state at the moment.
Well I have Cary cad 100 class a tube monos amps and odyssey stratos monoblocks and its hard to tell.
Well I have Cary cad 100 class a tube monos amps and odyssey stratos monoblocks and its hard to tell.The prob w SolidState amp is every year there is a plethora of new transistors, which are better and more power full than the old ones sit in the current hi fi amps.
I hate to say I am contemplating replacing my tube system with solid state at the moment.I agree. Those darn tube are worthless.
Another Brimar 12au7 two third plate
Excellent timing and powerful bass,a bit upfront
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=75464)
I agree. Those darn tube are worthless.Hi Bob and all Audio Circle members.
Send me your address and I'll be so kind as to take all those expensive, big, heavy, watt consuming, room heaters out of your life.
I'm just that nice of a guy. :wink:
Bob
The prob w SolidState amp is every year there is a plethora of new transistors, which are better and more power full than the old ones sit in the current hi fi amps.
If you stick with a tube amp, you will use tubes which already exist for decades and will continue to live for much time. :thumb:
I agree. Those darn tube are worthless.
Send me your address and I'll be so kind as to take all those expensive, big, heavy, watt consuming, room heaters out of your life.
I'm just that nice of a guy. :wink:
Bob
Sir, please step away from the tubes. :nono:Hey Bob, I'm just trying to help a fellow. :icon_twisted:
Hi Bob and all Audio Circle members.Hi Guy,
Room heater you say !
I would call my audio stuff: a furnace.
I would like to listen to some music today,
but now in (Saigon) Vietnam it's 35C/95F
My 12,000 BTU air conditioner even at maximum,
can only bring down the temperature down by one or two degrees.
But I will not send or anybody else my tube amplifier,
because one day, I will be back in Canada and there in January,
I need some heaters or tube amplifiers, the same.
Guy 13
Tenth versionGreat tutorial Adrianc, Iam learning with your posts.
Same as Ninth but with clear glass and the vertical and horizontal metal pieces is missing
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=75826)
Great tutorial Adrianc, Iam learning with your posts.Hi,FULLRANGEMAN,thanks,next time willpost some Mullard Ecc83,I'm glad you enjoy them :)
Few people today know comparative tube info. I look forward for more.
Thanks
Adrianc, show us some metal base pictures.Hi,David ,how are you,Which metal pictures you want,I already posted GZ34 metal base on #213,may be you like these KT61 .
I just went back and saw them. Wow.Thanks ,David,will show you some Metal Base EL34 next time,take care.
These KT61s are very nice.
Your collection is beyond words.
Adrianc:Hi,FULLRANGEMAN,
Wow, your collection are extensive indeed.
Do you had any NOS 805??
Hi,FULLRANGEMAN,Ooh, too bad and with the current prices I would not have too.
No,I don't.
Very nice Adrian. The ECC32 is one of the nicest sounding tubes.Hi,David,these ECC33 sounds nice as well
Hi Unison845 and all Audio Circle members.
What an interesting looking amplifier.
Removable tube tops... :o
Where did you find those tops?
Guy 13
Schiit Audio - Lyr headphone amp:
(http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x46/nelamvr6/Audio%20Gear/IMG_0670_zps2d82dc30.jpg) (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/nelamvr6/media/Audio%20Gear/IMG_0670_zps2d82dc30.jpg.html)
Western Electric 212E & 845
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=79598)
Hey!
Man! The 212E makes 845 look tiny like EL34 :lol: How many watts can you get out of the 212E?
Take care,
Buddy :thumb:
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/205290_542839279094548_2087519296_n.jpg)
While it's awfully cool looking, horizontal power tubes is a really bad idea. I'm surprised designers are still doing it.
While it's awfully cool looking, horizontal power tubes is a really bad idea. I'm surprised designers are still doing it.
Is it? Seems like it would be more efficient at releasing heat since heat rises and you now have more surface area of the tube facing up. Like a vertical firelog vs one on its side.
The glass surface is the same no matter the orientation. The horizontal tube mounting adds strain on the tube sockets as well as the heat dissipating on the side of the tube envelope/bottle and hot at the top as designed. However, this is really a non-sequitur as many amps have employed a horizontal tube placement without any ill effects.
Jim
Hey!Hi,
Man! The 212E makes 845 look tiny like EL34 :lol: How many watts can you get out of the 212E?
Take care,
Buddy :thumb:
Philips earliest ECC83 MCA Delta 3.Made in 1953-1954I never would say these are 12AX7 subs with this tall plate.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=80106)
My just completed 20B/300B amp. The wood is cocobolo on the chassis and spalted maple for the transformer / choke cover. Polished aluminum for the top plate. No electrolytics in the amp except for the tube heater modules. Yup, that includes the cathode bypass cap and all power supply caps. Very clean, open sound with as little impediment in the signal path as I could muster. There is an input step up transformer (Lundahl amorphous core 1:4) to get full gain on the amp. Really no magic here at all except for using the components that IME have given me the best sound over the years.
Tony
Very Nice Work Tony 8)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=79913)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=79914)
Driguy, nice looking amp!
Well done!! Hope it sounds as great as it looks!
The cocobolo looks nice!
Thanks, it does sound great even though I only have about 60 hours on it. The soundstage is really large and the front to back layering is exceptional.
Tony
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=81022)Nice red stuff, what brand are these transformers?? Edcor?
Jeff Larson's 6197 SEP / 2.7 watts , no neg. feedback & no caps in signal path ( two 6197 Amperex black plate pentodes & Mullard smoked glass 6CA4 rectifier )
Question: I havent strayed from using EH tubes with my Rogues... any suggestions regarding tube rolling?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=81053)
Nice red stuff, what brand are these transformers?? Edcor?
Yes, Edcor's .OK Thanks Bro.
6197 pentode (http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6197.html)
6CL6 pentode (http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/6cl6.pdf)
Mullard ECC35,Date code 1347 >>MS<<Adrianc,
Any gas??
9HI FULLRANGEMAN,these are very very old ECC35(Earliest type) and just working faultlessly,personally I like the second version(black plate with D getter) which I had 20 of them,the D getter sounds more open,lively and dynamic,and the Mid never sounds lean, The first version sounds more weight and a bit slow,it all depends what your system need.
OK Thanks Bro.
Adrianc,
Your tube stock are endless. The date code is 1947, 13ª week??
A very old tube. I wonder how this senior tubes perform?? Any gas??
A rather personal question, don't you think? :lol:Hi Ericus Rex,you are always welcome,take care
But seriously, I too am floored by your tube stash. Thanks again for sharing.
HI FULLRANGEMAN,these are very very old ECC35(Earliest type) and just working faultlessly,personally I like the second version(black plate with D getter) which I had 20 of them,the D getter sounds more open,lively and dynamic,and the Mid never sounds lean, The first version sounds more weight and a bit slow,it all depends what your system need.Wow, It is always good receive a detailed lesson.
Regards
Adrian
I think Adrain is Tube "HOARDER".Thanks TrungT,you are right,I just collected old nice sounding valves as the earliest made always sounds better and that is the reason why I never use valves made after 1956. :)
:lol: :thumb:
Very nice collections.
Thanks TrungT,you are right,I just collected old nice sounding valves as the earliest made always sounds better and that is the reason why I never use valves made after 1956. :)as the earliest made always sounds better and that is the reason why I never use valves made after 1956.
Adrian should just change his name to "museum."Hi David,moor E88cc for you
I always feel good about my tube collection when I have 1 or 2 of something that matches what Adrian posts!
Amperex E88cc pinched waist square getter.Date code 7LO 66C
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=81736)
Hi all Audio Circle members and tube collectors.Hi,GUY 13,I started collecting valves more than twenty years ago,most of them are from electronic shops and valve companys,also from some private collectors.
For the second time, I will ask, because the first time I've asked,
none of the Audio Circle members care to answer me.
So, for the second time:
Where do you get all those nice and rare tubes.
Guy 13
Hi,GUY 13,I started collecting valves more than twenty years ago,most of them are from electronic shops and valve companys,also from some private collectors.
Adrian
Hi,GUY 13,I started collecting valves more than twenty years ago,most of them are from electronic shops and valve companys,also from some private collectors.Hi adrianc and all Audio Circle members.
Adrian
But do you HAVE TO be a billionaire to have a collection like yours, Adrian?no,Ericus Rex,they only cost me few Pounds each :lol: :lol:
Hi adrianc and all Audio Circle members.I never sell any valves and only keep them for myself,may be three coffins.
Do you sometime sell some of your tubes from your collection
or do you keep them all for yourself
and show them to make others jealous? :lol:
If you want to be buried with them, you will need more than one coffin. :lol:
Guy 13
Adrian, those look very nice.Hi David,all the valves are boxed in the roof and small pictures show more details.
I think you should be posting group pictures or a picture of your tube closet or tube house!
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/dimfer/aMar066.jpg) (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/dimfer/media/aMar066.jpg.html)Wow, how is the sound of this GM70 amp? Any brand??
PSET GM70's - 60 watts room heaters :lol:
My system
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82154)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82155)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82156)
Cables are,Siltech,MIT,NBS,Synergistic,Kimber,Harmonic Tech,Triode wire labs and Wireworld.
Sorry, I didn't know he and I were talking about the same piece.
Wow, how is the sound of this GM70 amp? Any brand??
Thanks
The amps were made by Trodt Audio (http://trodtaudio.com), all transformers (mains & coupling) were custom wound for specific tubes used.Thanks Dimfer for these details.
The sound is very dynamic, and with plenty of bass to boot. I had $16k msrp 20 watt 845's from Italy before, and they don't even compare.
I was told that an identical pair was compared to a much more expensive pair of tube amps from a respected builder from Japan, and Trodt GM 70 did very well.
Disclosure - I am an audio dealer, this is one of the brands I am offering.
The amps were made by Trodt Audio (http://trodtaudio.com), all transformers (mains & coupling) were custom wound for specific tubes used.
The sound is very dynamic, and with plenty of bass to boot. I had $16k msrp 20 watt 845's from Italy before, and they don't even compare.
I was told that an identical pair was compared to a much more expensive pair of tube amps from a respected builder from Japan, and Trodt GM 70 did very well.
Disclosure - I am an audio dealer, this is one of the brands I am offering.
Telefunken E88CC
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82129)
Nice looking. I have one, just one Telefunken, but some 25 Amperex Bugleboys, including some PQs etc.Hi Steve,show us some of your tubes. :D
Got hundreds of used tubes, including new caddy with NOS in them.
What to do with them all. :thumb:
Cheers.
And what's the blue stuff on the tubes?
Very surprise and many thanks to all of you like my system,
Amplifiers are Leak12.1,Stereo 20,Krell KSA-50S,BBC AM8/4 EL34 Mono Block and the Chinese made Huston EL34 Mini 2.
Best regards
Adrian
Adrian,Sorry Steve,missed your post,showed my gear on #509.
What tube gear are you actually using?
Inquiring minds want to know!
Beautiful stuff! What are those tube amps? I'm not familiar with any of them. And what's that in between your AR components?Hi Ericus Rex,The bottom one is a Leak 12.1 and the Matisse Fantasy Pre-amp on top.
I wonder how these sound:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6E12N-V-6E12N-Nuvistor-type-Metal-ceramic-HF-POWER-AMPLIFICATION-SOVIET-TUBE-/310395062476?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4844fcc8cc
$9.50/pair and capable of 2.2 watts. States Hi-Freq voltage and power amplification though. Might not work for audio freqs. Is 50mV of noise a lot?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82573)Do you will remove these big red labels from glass before use the tube?? to avoid overheat the glass.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82577)
Do you will remove these big red labels from glass before use the tube?? to avoid overheat the glass.No,not necessary :nono:
The labels looks new, the tubes are new/ununsed yet??Yes they are brand new :roll:
OK, I was curious as these labels dont look burned yet.You're always welcome :) :)
Thanks bro. :thumb: Beautiful tubes indeed.
I love seeing this glow when I'm playing music:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82657)
:thumb:
adrianc,Hi Jake,during normal use,it will take a long long time to make the label fade unless you scrath them or wash them with water,of course they will fade or darken when overheated,here are some photos to show how they changed
The labels fullrangeman is referring to are painted on, correct? I don't have any tubes with painted labels but I would assume that they don't cause any problems with "overheating". Do the labels fade or darken when used?
Jake
Hi adrianc and all Audio Circle members.Hi Guy,I agree with you the label will last longer if stick on the base but I think they looks much better on the glass :)
If those nice labels (Especially the Marconi one)
have been pasted on the base,
they would still look new today,
don't you thionk so?
Guy 13
I love seeing this glow when I'm playing music:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82573)They both are stickers,not painted,color different due to camera flash,
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82577)
The first image seems a red Marconi paint label.
The second image may be a orange paper label.
This is correct??
They both are stickers,not painted,color different due to camera flash,OK, Thanks for informing.
Adrian
adrianc,Thanks Bob,I,m sure there are lot of people out there have more valves than me.
You must have more tubes than the rest of the world! :thumb:
Neat stuff!
Hi adrianc and all Audio Circle members.Hi Guy, I'm really don't know how many I had.No time to count them :lol:
Did you ever count how many tubes you have.
1,000, 5,000, 10,000 ? ? ?
Guy 13
.Hi Guy, I'm really don't know how many I had.No time to count them :lol:
Adrian - So, there's no difference between the second and third versions except for the date codes? Then, why are they different versions?Hi Itr317,you are absolutely right,I just try to listed all these different Date Code as most seller ask more money for the earlier version,so,some one can buy the RX1 version for less cash.One more thing forgot to mention,the eight edges version(1608 J4 To RX1 B5I) are the best sounding of the rest.
VT75 = KT66Adrianc,
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=83771)
Adrianc,Hi FULLRANGEMAN ,Not a silly question,it was a tape to secure the base of the valve mostly on Military valves.
Excuse my silly question, but what is this grey belt in these tubes??
I have never see this before.
Hi FULLRANGEMAN ,Not a silly question,it was a tape to secure the base of the valve mostly on Military valves.Hmm, very interesting.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=84685)Nice image, also great wood chassis. :thumb:
WOW, great stuffHi Jay,I think it was in the 1990s when I got my first tube gears and started to collect valves.
Adrian, if you don't mind me asking, how long has it taken you to create such a great collection?
Do you rent a warehouse :lol:
-jay
Do you have a picture of the room they're stored in?Hi Bob,most of them are in the loft and some in my listening room which easy for me to change valves when I get bore with them . :lol: :lol:
Oh. I understand. :(WOW,too exaggerate :lol: :lol: :lol:
I was anticipating a photo that looked something like that scene in "Raider of the Lost Ark":
(http://images4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20080523032116/indianajones/images/9/9a/400.jpg)
I pictured a big version ofHi David,are these your collections ? nice.
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa342/dminches/Tubes/HughesCloset.jpg)
Adrian, that is part of my friend's collection. I love that picture so much I had a puzzle made of it. Now that was fun to put together.Hi dminches and all Audio Circle members.
I pictured a big version of
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa342/dminches/Tubes/HughesCloset.jpg)
Gee... Big tubes, huge tubes, huge-er tubes! Piles and Rooms of tubes, its like ... porn. I like small tubes, so sue me!Hi slbender and all Audio Circle members.
My First SET Amp was similar, but less complex using a 12AX7 driving paralleled 10BQ5's, it was Six Watts per channel, and set in the same size form-factor, but it weighed in at about 36 lbs (yeah, the avatar on the left from about 12 years ago).
Pictured - My 2nd SET Amp.
First, I tossed out F. Langford Smith (1953) 4th Edition - I decided: Sorry, that's just not the way to design a SET Amp to drive a complex Speaker Load. My Totally Unique All 5687 circuit. It can also use 7044, 7119, E182CC, or a bunch of 6900's if I can ever afford them, etc. Built from a naked steel chassis about six, seven, maybe eight years ago.
Six Watts per channel; 300 Volts B+; Built-in: Power Conditioning; 1:1 Isolation Transformer; Switching Power Supply; Two Separate High Voltage Capacitor Banks (one for each Channel under all those bias controls); Defined Startup Sequence - like in a Missile Silo (but no turning keys simultaneously); Delayed Plate Voltage via - Timers and Relays. 12 Watts / 2 channels / 12 lbs. (without the carry-around case - not seen). Bass straight down to hell; Purrfect Midrange; the sweetest Treble. Sounds Better than Sex.
Anyone have an ONGAKO they would care to compare?
-Steven L. Bender
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=85869)
"TMI" :oHi Bob and all Audio Circle members.
Sounds Better than Sex.
I pictured a big version ofI would say there is more tubes in this room unseen in this photo.
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa342/dminches/Tubes/HughesCloset.jpg)
Guess this 12AX7.It's one of the ones I don't have. :lol:
Normal metal base EL34Hi adrianc and all Audio Circle members.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=87503)
I know what you mean, Jay! I'll probably be doing the same thing :drool: when he posts his collection of euro KT88s. Then I'll be :bawl:
Just kidding, Adrian. It's a pleasure to see your collection and I, for one, am glad you choose to share it with us here at AC. I actually got into tubes far too late to have built a collection like yours. Frankly I just wish I had the scratch to get a full set of Psvane tubes for my rig.
:o :drool: you're killing me man !!Adrianc may be reported by torture, the EL34 had a sweet sound as Triode. :thumb:
-jay
Matsushita 12AX7?
Hi Adriano,you're welcome,
any special reason of your user name ADRIANO ?
Regards
Adrian
Am I seeing that correctly, the amps and speakers are plugged into jacks on the floor?
Jack,
Thanks much for sharing your tubes with us. I remember seeing your updates in the Von Schweikert circle on having this room installed, Beautiful, just beautiful. IIRC, you are in the Philippines? Hope you and yours are OK after the typhoon.
Could you please share a bit more info on those amps? T1610s in push-pull? How many watts are they making? And what are the amps in behind them? TIA.
sebrof,
Thanks for that nice tube glow shot, I just love shots like that.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/jackd201/KRVSA_zpsb50330bb.jpg)
T1610s :D
Hi all Audio Circle members.Hi Guy ,thanks for asking, been away few weeks and just got back,so busy,hope everyone ok.
Yes, it's been a long time since we saw a nice post and nice pictures from adrianc.
Where is he?
What he's doing?
I am (We are) missing his posts.
Guy 13
Incidentally find this very early Mullard EL84 1608 L3
Made in 1953 ,small disc getter,the two lines on the plate extend to the side compare to the 1608 H4 only on the front
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=91292)
Date code 1608 L3
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=91293)
Lines on the side
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=91294)
1608 H4 no lines on side
Mullard M8137HI adrianc,I found more early version Mullard M8137.produced in 1955, Date code 640 R5E with Double support square getter,wrinkle glass,and welded box plate ,I don't know is there any earlier version.
First version Date code 640 R6C R=Mitcham factory,6=1956,C=March.Double support square getter,wrinkle glass.
Second version Date code 640 R6H.same as first version but top mica have more edges
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=75821)
EL33 Mullard's answer to GEC's KT61rare collection
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92187)
E88CC Pinched waist made in HollandHi adrianc and all Audio Circle members.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92656)
E88CC Pinched waist made in Hollandlorenz e88cc :D
Hi Guy,if someone try to rob me,I will offer them free lunch eat all my Valves :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol::lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
lorenz e88cc :DHi shoot,are these gray getter support version?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92672)
E88CC Pinched waist made in Holland
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92656)
Hi shoot,are these gray getter support version?yes,support frame are all gray .Original lorenz manufacture.
Telefunken ECC801Sthere's 7 version :lol:
I had Four version
Hi shoot,Two fat ring getters ? you mean twin fat ring gettersyes adrianc.it's really amazed me when i got it.
yes adrianc.it's really amazed me when i got it.It looks like you have a lot of valves.
It looks like you have a lot of valves.couldn't compare with you, :roll: only a few.most focus on ecc81 ecc82 and ecc83.
I was confused before i got those tubes,why there's a additional getter supporter with no getter on it in telefunken ecc801s .after i got those early version ecc801s i came to understand that it's a evolution remains.just like human's caudal :lol:Please post some of your valve collections,are you Chinese,if you don't mind I ask.
Please post some of your valve collections,are you Chinese,if you don't mind I ask.yes I'm a chinese,I admire your valve collection.It's really educated me.Learned a lot from you :lol:
yes I'm a chinese,I admire your valve collection.It's really educated me.Learned a lot from you :lol:You shouldn't said that,you possibly had more valves than me.
I think I had a few of this version somewhere in the house.any way,some metal basethose are closed getter? very rare.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=93362)
Mullard welded plate ECC81this is my first time to see mullard welded plate ecc81.Is it square getter?code number?
this is my first time to see mullard welded plate ecc81.Is it square getter?code number?Yes square getter,can not see the date code.
Yes square getter,can not see the date code.why do you judge it as mullard?
why do you judge it as mullard?ok,I checked.it's made by mullard around 1956 :green:
Well done shoot,I should have some Mullard ECC81 Date code 1552 J3 with two side holes but NO bar on platethat seems to be the earlist mullard ecc81 made by mullard mitcham factory?I got only 1,code 1552 K3 :roll: one kind of marconi b152 seems have same inside stracture with this kind mullard ecc81.
that seems to be the earlist mullard ecc81 made by mullard mitcham factory?I got only 1,code 1552 K3 :roll: one kind of marconi b152 seems have same inside stracture with this kind mullard ecc81.Yes,this four letter Date code also appeared on ECC83 ( 1600 ) ECC82 (1593 )
Sorry,should be Numbers Date Codethose tubes made in 1954,one of great sounding ecc81.I have 1 pair.
here are some 1552 G4s
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=93424)
Marconi square getterthe right one are very rare,amazing :o
I only have 650 R7B,It sounds great.I think yours R6J must be even better.Yes the R6J Sounds much better,more R6J
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=93476)
Yes the R6J Sounds much better,more R6JI know why i couldn't find R6J now.They all went to your warehouse :green:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=93529)
I think maybe 4 version. :D
The first version is the earlist which produced in 1952,No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,black mercury,straight D getter.(the first one on the left)
Second version No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,silver mercury,straight D getter.
third version Four edges on top mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,straight D getter.
fourth version Four edges on top mica,plate had two holes and two bars,wing D getter.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92838)
What about this one? August 1952 Cleartop, bottom code YKB DZhello rodama.I never saw clear top versionbefore.does it still work well?
greetings
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=94076)
Hi all Audio Circle members.EL84 I suggest telefunken el84,it's expensive but absolutely sounds great.VALVO or siemens el84 are also nice options.If your budget is limited Russia made genalex goden lion el84 is not bad.
If TC Tubes exchange the Toshiba something else, what would you suggest.
How about Mullard or JJ ?
I am trying to get the most out of My Decware SE84.
For now, I only have experience with EH and Sovtek.
Guy 13
EL84 I suggest telefunken el84,it's expensive but absolutely sounds great.VALVO or siemens el84 are also nice options.If your budget is limited Russia made genalex goden lion el84 is not bad.
12AX7 I suggest brimar black plates square getter 12ax7.none of US made 12ax7 sounds nice,they are cheap but not worth to invest.philips or valvo ecc83 with declined D foil getter or mullard square getter ecc83 are also nice options.they are expensive but worth to invest.
EL84 I suggest telefunken el84,it's expensive but absolutely sounds great.VALVO or siemens el84 are also nice options.If your budget is limited Russia made genalex goden lion el84 is not bad.Hi shoot and all Audio Circle members.
12AX7 I suggest brimar black plates square getter 12ax7.none of US made 12ax7 sounds nice,they are cheap but not worth to invest.philips or valvo ecc83 with declined D foil getter or mullard square getter ecc83 are also nice options.they are expensive but worth to invest.
Guy had a very meager tube budget. Nothing you've recommended was in his price range...or even close to his price range. This left only new production and American made. As an owner of all the 12AX7s you mention (except the Valvo) and the coveted Telefunken smooth plate 12AX7s, I have to strongly disagree with your assessment about the quality of American tubes. My Raytheon Blackplates are, IMO, every bit as good as any other 12AX7 in my stash, including my Teles. And the other American tubes I own far outperform the new production in every respect except possibly noise (the Euros usually fail here as well). But I'll take great sound over a little tube rush any day.Hi Ericus Rex and all Audio Circle members.
Guy had a very meager tube budget. Nothing you've recommended was in his price range...or even close to his price range. This left only new production and American made. As an owner of all the 12AX7s you mention (except the Valvo) and the coveted Telefunken smooth plate 12AX7s, I have to strongly disagree with your assessment about the quality of American tubes. My Raytheon Blackplates are, IMO, every bit as good as any other 12AX7 in my stash, including my Teles. And the other American tubes I own far outperform the new production in every respect except possibly noise (the Euros usually fail here as well). But I'll take great sound over a little tube rush any day.Hi Ericus,Thanks for your opinion.
Hi Ericus,Thanks for your opinion.
I just want to make him understand nice sound cost much,if I don't have much budget,I'd rather use the amp original tubes.
As to raytheon black plates 12ax7,I didn't have. but i have raytheon black plates square getter 12au7,for me It sounds good but still not good enough to compare with top european 12au7(every individual's favorites are not same,that's just for me).But there's an exception, tung-sol black glass 12au7 sounds great,it can compare with top european 12au7.unfortunately tung-sol didn't made same type 12ax7.here are some of my tung-sol 12au7 collection
TC doesn't seem to have anything to exchange for your Toshibas so you should go for a full refund and buy your EL84 pair elsewhere.Hi Ericus Rex and all Audio Circle members.
Guy, contact Jim McShane and get the Re-Issue Gold Lion EL84 from him. He is honest as the day is long, and burns in the tubes to get rid of wacky ones. You can't go wrong.Hi Freo-1 and all Audio Circle members.
I think maybe 4 version. :D
The first version is the earlist which produced in 1952,No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,black mercury,straight D getter.(the first one on the left)
Second version No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,silver mercury,straight D getter.
third version Four edges on top mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,straight D getter.
fourth version Four edges on top mica,plate had two holes and two bars,wing D getter.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92838)
I think maybe 4 version. :D
The first version is the earlist which produced in 1952,No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,black mercury,straight D getter.(the first one on the left)
Second version No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,silver mercury,straight D getter.
third version Four edges on top mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,straight D getter.
fourth version Four edges on top mica,plate had two holes and two bars,wing D getter.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=94499)
Left: 4L TKA 1951.9, DISC getter, WELDED Getter, Black mercury
Right: triangle K TKB 1952.10, 45 digree D getter, Welded getter
Hi Adriano!It's the same type with the tube which i posted in 708,it was produced in 1951,by philips venolanda (holland) factory not valvo coin base.
Dear Adrianc and Shoot
May be there is an earlier type:
Black mercury, disc getter, date code 4L TKA...
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=94496)
I think maybe 4 version. :Dthe right one is same with what i posted in 731,philips copenhagen factory made,not valvo coin base.
The first version is the earlist which produced in 1952,No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,black mercury,straight D getter.(the first one on the left)
Second version No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,silver mercury,straight D getter.
third version Four edges on top mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,straight D getter.
fourth version Four edges on top mica,plate had two holes and two bars,wing D getter.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=94499)
Left: 4L TKA 1951.9, DISC getter, WELDED Getter, Black mercury
Right: triangle K TKB 1952.10, 45 digree D getter, Welded getter
Hi Adriano!It's the same type with the tube which i posted in 708,it was produced in 1951,by philips venolanda (holland) factory not valvo coin base.
It's one of top sounding ecc81
Yes, you are right.
Hi Ericus Rex and all Audio Circle members.
I did not see on TC Tubes website anything for the EL84/6BQ5 and
they told me that they don't want to suggest anything until they can see what's wrong with the tubes.
That means it will/might take several months before the tubes reach them.
(End of July)
I will ask them for a full credit,
but I don't think they will give it to me until they have
the Toshiba tubes on hands.
In the mean time, I will enjoy as much as possible my EH tubes,
because I don't want to make the same mistake, even with NOS tubes.
Even if an Audio Circle member is using a brand/model and highly recommend what he's using, I have been burnt, therefore, I'm scared even with cold water.
If you understand what I mean.
Guy 13
I knew they'd treat you right, Guy. I would still like to know what the problem with the Toshiba's was...if you ever find out.Hi Ericus Rex.
Guy, think what Eric was asking is " if , after you return the tubes to TC, you hear back from them telling you what was wrong, please let us know"... I'd also be curious to know what they day.Hi Jay and all Audio Circle members.
Also, how expensive would it be to just pop the Toshibas in the mail to return them to TC ? Woul be a pretty small, light box . I've had quite a bit sent from overseas ( England, China etc) and it is never very much, is Vietnam really that expensive to ship some tubes from ? Just curious
-jay
I wanted to use my wife's aunt to return the tubes to TC Tubes,
because I am a broke cheap skate.
But now, with all those unexpected $ $ $, that change the whole thing.
You're a funny guy , Guy !! :rotflmao:Hi Jay and all Audio Circle members.
Hi Jay and all Audio Circle members.Ah :lol: :lol: Very funny Guy, this is your most funny post I can remember.
Thanks a lot.
That's the nicest compliment I can get.
If I try to be funny (Most of the time) it's because it's so depressing living in Vietnam.
If I did not have a good sense of humor,
I would probably be hanging at the end of a rope by now.
Guy 13
By the way, don't wish me Happy Birthday,
February the 13th
because it will remind me that I am 66 years old
and I hate that. :x
Guy, think what Eric was asking is " if , after you return the tubes to TC, you hear back from them telling you what was wrong, please let us know"... I'd also be curious to know what they day.
Also, how expensive would it be to just pop the Toshibas in the mail to return them to TC ? Woul be a pretty small, light box . I've had quite a bit sent from overseas ( England, China etc) and it is never very much, is Vietnam really that expensive to ship some tubes from ? Just curious
-jay
Hi Guy. That's a Rega RP6 with a Dynavector 20 mounted! Have to say I really like it.Thanks Merle.
Telefunken EL84there's an ealier version telefunken el84, no window on the plate.it says there's even earlier clean top version,but never saw it.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=83327)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=83328)
The earliest Mullard E88CC with milky ring on top,Date code 7L1 R1D1.do you think 7L1 code mullard e88cc sounds better than 7L0 code mullard e88cc? :icon_surprised:
To me,these are the best sounding E88CC !!!!!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82085)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82086)
Hi shoot,just got back from Egypt,Hi adrianc ,from Egypt? Dangerous place :D.I mean mullard made R code e88cc.Many people thought mullard 7L0 R8? OR 7L0 R9?(made in 1958,1959) are better than mullar 7L1 code e88cc.
Which 7L0 ?
Or this one
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=95854)
They are not, the 7L1 always sounds bettera little difference with the supporter ?
Spot the difference
Correct,that's enough to make them sounds different.Are they winkles glass or clear glass?
We stayed in the Sharm EL Sheikh area which is ok. 27degree compare to 1 degree when backed,sigh.
Nearly all Telefunken ECC88 come with thick fat getter but most of their E88CC gold pin are not.
Different version Telefunken E88CC
Vertical rib support thin getter
45 degree flat support thick fat getter with cooper rod
45 degree flat support thick fat getter with nickel rod
The one with cooper rod sounds best but to me,they still not good enough when to other top E88CCs
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82150)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82151)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=82152)
HI,rodama,it's not surprise that you can not find another one as this valve is so rare,personally I don't like Telefunken E88CCS as most of them are weak dynamic when compare to other top sounding E88CC,another one :lol:
I got this Disc getter Telefunken printed E88CC but made by Siemens.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=96202)
.
GEC N709 = el84WOW!!NOS original GEC(OSRAM)made EL84.some said it's the best el84 of all,How do you think?I only have some used,but tested as new.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97705)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97706)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97707)
Hi shoot,I don,t think they are the best sounding EL84,when compare to the 1608 Mullard,the mid are blur which really surprise me and that,s the reason why they are in the loft.To me mullard 1608 still the king of EL84.it's too rare,don't have chance to hear it.how do you think telefunken el84 sounds?
brimar flying lead cv4069 :lol:Interesting leads! I wonder how these leads work??
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97712)
it's too rare,don't have chance to hear it.how do you think telefunken el84 sounds?Hi shoot ,I,m afraid you asked the wrong person as I,m not a Telefunken fans,most of their valves sounds,to me lack the dynamic and slow rhythm and made music sounds lifeless,remember this is my own preference as their are a lot of audiophile like Telefunken valves.so do,t hit my head :lol: :lol:
Interesting leads! I wonder how these leads work??Hi FULLRANGEMAN!this can replace ecc82 or 6SN7.they are originally designed to welded on board.but now...... :thumb:
This tube are intend to work without socket??
The wires seems to be solded in the circuit.
Hi shoot ,I,m afraid you asked the wrong person as I,m not a Telefunken fans,most of their valves sounds,to me lack the dynamic and slow rhythm and made music sounds lifeless,remember this is my own preference as their are a lot of audiophile like Telefunken valves.so do,t hit my head :lol: :lol:why I had a contrary feeling :roll: :lol:
why I had a contrary feeling :roll: :lol:That's why they are no best sounding valves in the world, it might be my system sounds slow,specially the speakers.but hope is not my ears problem. :lol:
who can recognize this pair ecc82 :icon_lol: :thumb:Hivac ??
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97754)
Hivac ??Bingo :lol:
Similar oneDifferent one,this is PHILIPS Copenhagen made ecc82.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97779)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97780)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97781)
I think it is Philips Heerlen K5B Delta 5the code is on the bottom right? philips heerlen's mark is delta ⊿ and never made welded plate ecc82,83. philips Copenhagen's mark is a triangle Δ,they made welded plate ecc81,82,83 from 1951-53. the mark are similer and made many people get confused
the code is on the bottom right? philips heerlen's mark is delta ⊿ and never made welded plate ecc82,83. philips Copenhagen's mark is a triangle Δ,they made welded plate ecc81,82,83 from 1951-53. the mark are similer and made many people get confusedWhat about these Delta 8 MCB welded plate?
What about these Delta 8 MCB welded plate?Can I see their bottom picture?I think they are all made by philips Copenhagen in oct.1953 ,If you got MCA ΔA(or B,C,D,E) that will be one of the best ECC82. never heard philips heerlen made welded plate ecc82,83.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97787)
Here you arephilips Copenhagen oct.1953
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97788)
The stamp looks like a triangle but printed made in Holland,wrong printed probably, Believe it or not I broke three of these ECC83, FXXXNever mind that "made in holland" print,they often print wrong. inside stracture and code is the only basis.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97790)
No :lol: :lol: I want you to guess what type of this valvesome of the code is not printed. according to the picture.I guess it's a ecc82,made by philips eindhoven in aug, 1952. :roll:
Three mica D getter :duh:it's a early telefunken ecc81.the bottom is too narrow,missing a B,the code should be YKB ⊥6,so it's a telefunken ecc81 made in AUG,1953. :lol:
YKB Telefunken?????yes,early telefunken don't have <> on bottom,and some of their tubes use similer code number as philips.⊥ is telefunken berlin factory code.
They are professionals. :thumb:Yeah, this guys worked all its life with tubes, something they should know.
Yeah, this guys worked all its life with tubes, something they should know.that's adrianc not me,I'm a new comer :lol:
that's adrianc not me,I'm a new comer :lol:Don't say that,I might be have a little bit valves in my collection,that's it,still a lot to learn about Valves
The stamp looks like a triangle but printed made in Holland,wrong printed probably, Believe it or not I broke three of these ECC83, FXXX
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97790)
Shinny plates with Telefunken small Fat getter ?? not made by Telefunken
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97935)
seems to be 1954's telefunken ecc81Hi shoot,I think this is the same as yours but without the Valvo date code.The earliest Telefunken valves doesn't have diamond mark and fat getter and most of their 9 pin valves like EL84, ECC81,82s are comes with printing 00 at the end like B.hb.00, and they all with Telefunken logos,I thinks yours are bought by Valvo and print their name on it as I believed it's not necessarily for Telefunken to use other brands name for their products.Don't get too serious on it and I might be wrong :lol: :lol: :lol:
These last pair looks like Valvo 1955 Hamburg made on left and 1954 on the right...They are both the same with DX mCP code but with Mullard logos
My only tube I've never been able to identify, ecc82 labeled Haltron... no acid or bottom code, no glass seals at top like show on philips factories ones, wide rectangular getter with single support, big hole on mica like brimar.... someone knows?Haltron never manufacture valves and just a distributor, would it be a Sylvania???
(http://i60.tinypic.com/1zez05f.jpg)
Hi shoot,I think this is the same as yours but without the Valvo date code.The earliest Telefunken valves doesn't have diamond mark and fat getter and most of their 9 pin valves like EL84, ECC81,82s are comes with printing 00 at the end like B.hb.00, and they all with Telefunken logos,I thinks yours are bought by Valvo and print their name on it as I believed it's not necessarily for Telefunken to use other brands name for their products.Don't get too serious on it and I might be wrong :lol: :lol: :lol:In early 1952,53.telefunken and siemens the two company are still togather,so some of the early siemens tubes also use fat getter.
1953 and 1954 telefunken ecc81,1954's has <> on bottom
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97956)
Haltron never manufacture valves and just a distributor, would it be a Sylvania???
CITRON ?Do you mean Hytron?
it's a early telefunken ecc81.the bottom is too narrow,missing a B,the code should be YKB ⊥6,so it's a telefunken ecc81 made in AUG,1953. :lol:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=97881)
These Telefunken marked with philips codes are pretty rare, only about half dozen times I've seen these in about 20 years of tube collecting! :Dit says that those kind ecc81 only produced in very short period,it's also my first time to see those kind code telefunken tube.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98082)THis small tube had a paper label. One must remove the paper label before use the tube to avoid over heating??
THis small tube had a paper label. One must remove the paper label before use the tube to avoid over heating??Hi FULLRANGEMAN.
Hi FULLRANGEMAN.Hi Guy,It was a paper sticker :lol: :lol:
I might be wrong
(Won't be the first time - neither the last time)
but look to me like thick textured paint, not paper ? ? ?
Guy 13
Hi Guy,It was a paper sticker :lol: :lol:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98082)GEC(OSRAM,MARCONI) ECC81(82,83)?made by BRIMAR
THis small tube had a paper label. One must remove the paper label before use the tube to avoid over heating??if you removed that paper label it will lost a lot value. :lol: people will think it's a brimar tube.
Yes B329 made by Brimargray plate?it's very rare.most are black plates.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98085)
Siemens E82CC black plates gold pinsI think this much more like a US made tube
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98086)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98087)
Because of the Black plates???yes,the black color is not like European tube's black,and the inside stracture also shows it's US made tube.
Yes B329 made by Brimar
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98085)
yes,the black color is not like European tube's black,and the inside stracture also shows it's US made tube.Actually it was made by RCA,but don't know why it had gold pins?
Very rare. I've owned several yellow T's but could never afford these.Hi Itr 317,It's a Brimar made ECC82 only but with a GEC sticker,nothing special :lol: :lol:
Siemens E82CC black plates gold pins
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98086)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98087)
Hi Itr 317,It's a Brimar made ECC82 only but with a GEC sticker,nothing special :lol: :lol:it says the material is different from brimar.and sunds much better.you sunds the same?
it says the material is different from brimar.and sunds much better.you sunds the same?If this GEC is from Brimar I can not see any sound difference unless the label change the sound,as most people said a Gold Lion B739,B749,B759 sounds better than the same Mullard version ?
This one should be made by SiemensFor sure a Siemens Munich made in the very late 50's to early 60's, nice sound, very dinamic, maybe a little bit bold.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98088)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98089)
If this GEC is from Brimar I can not see any sound difference unless the label change the sound,as most people said a Gold Lion B739,B749,B759 sounds better than the same Mullard version ?I don't know. :green: do you think gold lion b749 sound the same with same version mullard?
Hi Itr 317,It's a Brimar made ECC82 only but with a GEC sticker,nothing special :lol: :lol:
I don't know. :green: do you think gold lion b749 sound the same with same version mullard?All of these Gold Lion valves are 100% made by Mullard and all had Mullard date code on them depend on the version (161 e.g ) the different is they have been checked for tighter tolerance and comes with a tested result,a better spec. doesn't mean a better sound quality and remember this so call tested result is not for that single valve,that's for the whole same production batch.I had listen to them before and I don' think they sounds better than the same production Mullard. Long time ago I tested few of the Mullard square getter ECC83,all of them have the same date code,same 100% measurement match and found them sounds different,Why,have a guess and let you know next time. :lol:
In that case, I'll stick with the Yellow T's since they are much cheaper.Have you try the Phillips 30 degree strip foil bar getter version,you might like it.
All of these Gold Lion valves are 100% made by Mullard and all had Mullard date code on them depend on the version (161 e.g ) the different is they have been checked for tighter tolerance and comes with a tested result,a better spec. doesn't mean a better sound quality and remember this so call tested result is not for that single valve,that's for the whole same production batch.I had listen to them before and I don' think they sounds better than the same production Mullard. Long time ago I tested few of the Mullard square getter ECC83,all of them have the same date code,same 100% measurement match and found them sounds different,Why,have a guess and let you know next time. :lol:
Have you try the Phillips 30 degree strip foil bar getter version,you might like it.
Have you try the Phillips 30 degree strip foil bar getter version,you might like it.
I don't have the chance to hear gold lion B749,but many tube fans said although the inside stracure are same with mullard.but the oxide material on the cathode are different,and the inert gas in the tube is also different.they produced according to gold lion's demand and design.and said they sounds much better than mullard.even said they are the king of ecc82.I don't know.When you got chance to listen to them then you will find out and even the same Golden Lion version sounds different as my last posted mention about the Mullard,the sound different came from the bottom mica,the lighter color sounds more transparent and the deeper color sounds more weight and body,try it and hear the difference. :lol: :lol:
to me 1950-53's brimar black plates square getter is my favorite ecc82.
No, but if they are not crazy expensive I may try some.It's worth to try just don't buy the lever getter version
Different versions of Hamburg made Valvo ecc83 through years:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=94066)
From left to right: november 1954, D getter with foil strip, copper rods, small hole on side--- july 1955, D getter with bigger foil strip one point welded, nickel rods, bigger hole on plate sides--- march 1956, same as 1955 but large rectangular folded getter and larger bottle--- june 1957, same features but 45º big O getter.
I know there is also a first version made in late 1953 early 1954 with no foil on D getter and also a last made 1958-59 with smaller o getter.
greetings
Any body knows what is this valves??VALVO 6211 made by philips heerlen factory. :green:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98146)
VALVO 6211 made by philips heerlen factory. :green:These valves comes with 600 Telefunken ECC802s in a big bag which I bought long time ago.
These valves comes with 600 Telefunken ECC802s in a big bag which I bought long time ago.:green:
These 6211 gold pins comes with holes on platehave <> on bottom?
have <> on bottom?Yes, Diamond mark on bottom
Yes, Diamond mark on bottom
the earliest ecc82 I met,made in 1949.tung-sul black plates smoke bottle.most are grey plates.Does it sound bright and fast,I beg you don't like it :lol: :lol:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98157)
Does it sound bright and fast,I beg you don't like it :lol: :lol:I like gray plates version more. :D
full strip is not 6211?Your 6211 are full strip??
I once saw a early version ecc802s looks like a ribbed plates telefunken ecc82,but was 19mm long plates.
Yes B329 made by Brimargray plates brimar 12AU7
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98085)
Your 6211 are full strip??telefunken 6211 is full strip. valvo 6211 are half strip
gray plates brimar 12AU7Never interesting gray plate Brimar,only their Black Plate 82, 83, are top sounding valves :duh:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98160)
Never interesting gray plate Brimar,only their Black Plate 82, 83, are top sounding valves :duh:sounds not bad but can't compare with black plates one.
Does it have the Hamburg plant codes? looks like Heerlen/Copenhagen made...
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98148)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98149)
the earliest ecc82 I met,made in 1949.tung-sul black plates smoke bottle.most are grey plates.Wow, that's really early made, I have some ken-rad supposed to be from 48-49, but cannot data these years for sure
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98157)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98148)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98149)
Hi rodama, mine is exactly the same as yours but with a triangle D mCN copenhagen. :oYours is april made 1954 Copenhagen one month later than mine.... I'm afraid the meaning of the "S" is something we will never know... :roll:
The best Brimar ecc82 I've heard, CV491 3rd week of may 1953Try these M8136
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2yvwks8.jpg)
I've try Mullard CV4003/M8136 in it's late 70's version small o getter, good extension at top but a little bit harsh in my system.Yes, the first version double support square getter is a totally different valves but it is not the best in the M8136 family.
I suposse the first version with double support square getter must be way better.
From left to right in pairs: Telefunken 5965, copper rods grey side strip, 6211 gold pin full silver strip, ecc802s half side strip. All three with same plates with same number of holes.The 5965 different to the other two are, cooper rod,grey strip and no bar on the top mica,am I right?
(http://i61.tinypic.com/21o3dok.jpg)
Not very visible in pic, but it have the strip at mica as the 6211 and ecc802sI'm pretty sure one of the Telefunken ECC802 version have no horizon bar on top getter.
Telefunken made a lot of versions for each type of tube, also prothotypes extremely rare.... I still wonder about a Telefunken ecc83 1950-52 square getter white base....or ecc801 double o getter...I had some square getter Telefunken ecc82 ceramic base and shoot have some twin getter ecc801
Yours is april made 1954 Copenhagen one month later than mine.... I'm afraid the meaning of the "S" is something we will never know... :roll:Standard? week?
I had some square getter Telefunken ecc82 ceramic base and shoot have some twin getter ecc801The ecc81 and ecc82 square getter ceramic base are rare but I have one ecc82 and seen here and there, never one ecc83 with that features...but it must exist, or not?
Some of my ECC802
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98189)
in 22 years of constant research nor a single picture or reference about.... the hunt continues :lol:Difficult than ghost hunt :lol: :lol: :lol:
Difficult than ghost hunt :lol: :lol: :lol::lol: almost impossible :duh: :lol:
To me it mean Special or speciaal in Dutch.It can be, the S is hand made,......can you imagine an operator marking hundreds of these every day? in that case these tubes should be really "S"pecial, but now the question would be: why? :roll:
It can be, the S is hand made,......can you imagine an operator marking hundreds of these every day? in that case these tubes should be really "S"pecial, but now the question would be: why? :roll:Because it was necessary mark these valves and someone had to do it.
Telefunken made a lot of versions for each type of tube, also prothotypes extremely rare.... I still wonder about a Telefunken ecc83 1950-52 square getter white base....or ecc801 double o getter...1956 and early 1957's telefunken ecc801s has double fat O getter.I have post the picture in 694 :)
Because it was necessary mark these valves and someone had to do it.S stand for shoot or the workers were watching Superman movie during the assemble :lol: :lol: :lol:
Probably the factory had abundant employees.
1956 and early 1957's telefunken ecc801s has double fat O getter.I have post the picture in 694 :)So it really exists... those are extremely rare tubes....keep them as a treasure! :thumb:
Because it was necessary mark these valves and someone had to do it.
Probably the factory had abundant employees.
So it really exists... those are extremely rare tubes....keep them as a treasure! :thumb:and another 1957's bizarre one with only one supporter.
and another 1957's bizarre one with only one supporter.this one can be a prothotype.... rarer than rare! :thumb:
Agreed it was necessary to mark it because these are special, but what makes it that special was the question; internal features? extremely strong values or matched sections? ......Well, maybe the factory engineer could explain this, if he is alive yet.
the earliest version of Telefunken el84, logo print in negative, ceramic base and no diammond bottom :rotflmao:Ah,I like it :icon_surprised:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2hocrw0.jpg)
Ah,I like it :icon_surprised:this logo is pretty than normal telefunken logo :lol:
the earliest version of Telefunken el84, logo print in negative, ceramic base and no diammond bottom :rotflmao:it says there's also clean top version,have you ever saw it?
it says there's also clean top version,have you ever saw it?No, never seen a single one cleartop, but heard (not seen) about a double o getter wrinkled glass 1952-54 made....
I'm only have thesevery early, june 1953, these must be 3rd version
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98222)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98223)
Ah,I like it :icon_surprised:ok, no one knows these are rft made in the early 80's rebranded Telefunken? :lol: :lol: :lol:
the earliest version of Telefunken el84, logo print in negative, ceramic base and no diammond bottom :rotflmao:ok, so no one knows these are rft made in the early 80's rebranded Telefunken? :lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2hocrw0.jpg)
ok, no one knows these are rft made in the early 80's rebranded Telefunken? :lol: :lol: :lol:I just though it's bizarre,why ribbed plate and that hole looks like philips (valvo or siemens) el84. any way I have no idea :scratch:
Well, maybe the factory engineer could explain this, if he is alive yet.I hope someday one of those man could iluminate all of us about hundred questions, a lot of tube wisdom and knoweledge will dissapear :cry:
I hope someday one of those man could iluminate all of us about hundred questions, a lot of tube wisdom and knoweledge will dissapear :cry:I afraid it already happen at least with the 300B. WE already dont know how to made a 300B sound good as in the past.
I just though it's bizarre,why ribbed plate and that hole looks like philips (valvo or siemens) el84. any way I have no idea :scratch:Look how the mica was cutted, only rft made like that
Look how the mica was cutted, only rft made like thatthe bottle base really looks like early telefunken :D
ECC82
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98227)
ECC82Beautiful tubes Adriac, I still look a parthner for this one :roll:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98227)
how did they sounds? :thumb:I'm interested too, specially compared with "modern" ecc82 and other 50's philips factories ecc82 :thumb:
here comes another bizarre telefunken ecc82,has <> on bottom but mullard print and similer to philips code. K61 ⊥5C . 1955's?Crazy mix! :o
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98230)
I'm interested too, specially compared with "modern" ecc82 and other 50's philips factories ecc82 :thumb:Only one word to describe the sound ( Turbo Charge ) think about all frequency gone up and more weight and body,powerful bass,your amplifier's output has been increase, sounds nothing like a Telefunken ( that's the reason I like them ) these are the only two Telefunken valves I will happy to use in my system. The other is ECC81 ceramic base.
I afraid it already happen at least with the 300B. WE already dont know how to made a 300B sound good as in the past.even WE themselfs couldn't copy their own earlly 300B,so forget it. :green:
I suspect there are various details in the making of the 300B that arent in the manuals of the factory.
These important details were known only by the technicians who worked with this valve.
So 300B lovers should forget this tube, the new 300Bs never will sound as the the Vintage 300B.
Only one word to describe the sound ( Turbo Charge ) think about all frequency gone up and more weight and body,powerful bass,your amplifier's output has been increase, sounds nothing like a Telefunken ( that's the reason I like them ) these are the only two Telefunken valves I will happy to use in my system. The other is ECC81 ceramic base.they still didn't break up with siemens yet in those years,maybe some of siemens's technique :green:
Only one word to describe the sound ( Turbo Charge ) think about all frequency gone up and more weight and body,powerful bass,your amplifier's output has been increase, sounds nothing like a Telefunken ( that's the reason I like them ) these are the only two Telefunken valves I will happy to use in my system. The other is ECC81 ceramic base.Very nice comments, this push me to continue in search of these early ones
they still didn't break up with siemens yet in those years,maybe some of siemens's technique :green:As far as I know Telefunken was the top brand in tube desing and development in 30's 40's and early 50's, at least in Germany, look at their power triodes made in the early 30's.... also I think Siemens started to do ecc8x under philips control in 1954, I bet you'll never see a siemens ecc8x earlier than 54...
As far as I know Telefunken was the top brand in tube desing and development in 30's 40's and early 50's, at least in Germany, look at their power triodes made in the early 30's.... also I think Siemens started to do ecc8x under philips control in 1954, I bet you'll never see a siemens ecc8x earlier than 54...Absolutely right,different construction effect the sound most,these Telefunken not only different to their own products but also
My thoughs about why hese early 1950-53 tele ecc8x sound different are concerning about some other construction and materials than later ones, or better production quality control... again we need an old Telefunken technician to ask... :lol: :duh:
Absolutely right,different construction effect the sound most,these Telefunken not only different to their own products but alsoso why telefunken stopped producing those type ecc82 shortly after.I think telefunken engineers maybe think those tubes sounds not good :lol: just kidding:lol:
unlike like any other valves, big silver pins, ceramic base wrinkle glass ( not whole glass )D getter. fantastic.
so why telefunken stopped producing those type ecc82 shortly after.I think telefunken engineers maybe think those tubes sounds not good :lol: just kidding:lol:I suspect these are prototype valves and not operated within it's specification,well just guess :roll:
Because the materials and labour are getting more expensive,you won't find later made valves with pins applied with silver,good example like Leak amplifiers using less expensive transformers.washing machine on the diet.Right, just like phillips, they step down quality through the years degrading tubes by continuous , first delete welded plates from Copenhagen (1954), then foil or special gettering (1958), then pinched waist in Hamburg (1959) then copper rods and intruduce cheaper short plates (1960) then triple mica out through the sixties....and finally at the early 70's no special shield construction in the ecc88 family....
I suspect these are prototype valves and not operated within it's specification,well just guess :roll:I think these ecc82 are just early made, they are gems, think that these were the first ecc82 in the whole european continent.
think that these were the first ecc82 in the whole european continent.don't agree with it,I think brimar maybe produced the first ecc82 in europe.I saw brimar 12au7 made in 1950.
At that momment only us brands were made it for very few years....my guess it's that telefunken starts to produce these early type of ecc8x in very small quantityes to cover the demmands of us troops on germany, keep in mind that we're talking about Germany in 1948-50... and how many german (or european) radios or machinery of that era uses a ecc8x?? but this is only my guess :)
I think maybe 4 version. :DAre you refer to these Black mercury
The first version is the earlist which produced in 1952,No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,black mercury,straight D getter.(the first one on the left)
Second version No edges on mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,silver mercury,straight D getter.
third version Four edges on top mica,plate had one hole and one middle bar,straight D getter.
fourth version Four edges on top mica,plate had two holes and two bars,wing D getter.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=92838)
don't agree with it,I think brimar maybe produced the first ecc82 in europe.I saw brimar 12au7 made in 1950.I was talking about ecc82 only, by mistake I wrote ecc8x instead of ecc82 :) I know that philips made ecc81 in 1951 or maybe early, and in the case of Brimar, I do not considere UK as continental Europe, it's true you'll find UK made tubes with german labels but the earliest one I've seen was from 54, again maybe there's earlier ones but didn't see or read of it.
and also there's 1951's ecc83 ecc81 made by philips.I have 1951 disc getter ecc81 made by philips and also saw JAN 1951's ecc83.but never saw early than 1952's telefunken ecc8x.
Are these John's photo??I don't know, I foud it time ago on a thread and save the pic
Unusual ECC81 with thick pins and ceramic base,some said these are prototype made by Telefunken.These were made september 51....museum tubes!! Can I ask you how did you get it?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=68718)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=68719)
These were made september 51....museum tubes!! Can I ask you how did you get it?It was a long time ago a valve dealer rang me and send me a fax of the valves and I just send him a cheque straight away, expensive thought,I have three of them,try to find the other one.
It was a long time ago a valve dealer rang me and send me a fax of the valves and I just send him a cheque straight away, expensive thought,I have three of them,try to find the other one.These are the earliest tele ecc81 I've see and with perfect prints, money well spent imo :thumb:
Another museum piece here Shoot :Dno, this is not the earlist philips ecc81 :lol:
SEP.1951 . philips disc getter welded plates ecc81I like to try them on my Preamp. :duh:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98274)
Again not my pics but it deserves to be sharedthose code maybe printed wrong.because its inside stracture shows it maybe produced in 1953 or 1954
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2eoe29v.jpg)(http://i62.tinypic.com/9t1fd4.jpg)
Copenhagen january 1951 ecc81
Very old Brimar 12ax7 Black plate :lol: :lol:a little bit later version :scratch: the astonish thing is this pair have 0 Microphoney
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98277)
Quote from: rodama on Yesterday at 02:42 pm
I hope someday one of those man could iluminate all of us about hundred questions, a lot of tube wisdom and knoweledge will dissapear :cry:
I afraid it already happen at least with the 300B. WE already dont know how to made a 300B sound good as in the past.
I suspect there are various details in the making of the 300B that arent in the manuals of the factory.
These important details were known only by the technicians who worked with this valve.
So 300B lovers should forget this tube, the new 300Bs never will sound as the the Vintage 300B.
even WE themselfs couldn't copy their own earlly 300B,so forget it. :green:
very nice ecc82
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98278)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98279)
Factory engineer cannot give answers, except :
Not only are the materials and design of the tube different from modern materials and design, but the production machinery that make the tubes are themselves old and out-of-spec.
Modern tube engineers (hah, do they exist ? more like tube lovers trying to reproduce antique tubes) can try to purchase and refurbish the antique machinery, but where do they get the parts ? No longer made, there is no huge demand like in the 1950s, so they have to use modern makeshift parts and materials. No design blueprints for the old machinery or how to make the individual parts for the machinery means they are all shooting in the dark.
But I respect them for what they are trying to do.
:lol: :lol: :lol:with Mullar characters on glass side.... what are your opinion? 51 or later? maybe between all of us can put light in this case :lol:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98282)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98283)
with Mullard characters on glass side.... what are your opinion? 51 or later? maybe between all of us can put light in this case :lol:
with Mullar characters on glass side.... what are your opinion? 51 or later? maybe between all of us can put light in this case :lol:I'd rather judge it with inside stracture than the code.2 bars 1 hole,a little wide D getter,exactly same with my TKP ΔF code ecc81.so I think it's made in about 1954 :D
I'd rather judge it with inside stracture than the code.2 bars 1 hole,a little wide D getter,exactly same with my TKP ΔF code ecc81.so I think it's made in about 1954 :DOk, you can compare both in hand, so let's take your guess as correct one :D ... so the operator had bad day back then when marked these tubes.. :lol:
Most valves have a length for a production period,these two valves are 100% identical but with different Date code on the glass and ( Specially ).DIFFERENT YEAR.So just looking at one valve and judge their production year is not accurate,
Ok, you can compare both in hand, so let's take your guess as correct one :D ... so the operator had bad day back then when marked these tubes.. :lol:Phillips have so many production plants all over the world and the same type of valves made during the same period are likely the same but with different factory code.
Phillips have so many production plants all over the world and the same type of valves made during the same period are likely the same but with different factory code.Maybe here a good example of this, what would you say is this ecc82?
nobody? :scratch:Amperex Holland 1955-56 ?
It doesn't looks like a Siemens ?Bingo! It is a k61 ≠6D :thumb:
The plate and getter are Phillips,but is a Siemens :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:Quite strange, the early Siemens Munich ecc8x have philips plate and/or getter, telefunken fat getter, valvo plates with side hole... frankenstein tubes :lol:
Quite strange, the early Siemens Munich ecc8x have philips plate and/or getter, telefunken fat getter, valvo plates with side hole... frankenstein tubes :lol:Even I never like Siemens valves but will love to try this 82,would it be a 83 version?.When I first got my welded plate D getter 82, I was wondering they should be a version with holes on plate,this Siemens tell me it do exist. :duh:
Even I never like Siemens valves but will love to try this 82,would it be a 83 version?.When I first got my welded plate D getter 82, I was wondering they should be a version with holes on plate,this Siemens tell me it do exist. :duh:
These two looks identical apart one of them without bars on plate,I don't know which one is earlier but guess the one with bars is the later version. :scratch:Same codes? It also can be made in the same day but the operator for any reason did not push the button that activate the making of ribbs and that's all....
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98400)
These two looks identical apart one of them without bars on plate,I don't know which one is earlier but guess the one with bars is the later version. :scratch:I think the right one is early version,because not only with no bar,but also with an early version D getter ,the D getter is a little narrow and the wire is also alittle thick,it only appears in early version.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98400)
the first version of valvo 6201,made in 1956.three mica,square getter pinched weist.First time I see this type, another museum tube :thumb: if I see it well it habe an extra support but without getter??
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98406)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98407)
First time I see this type, another museum tube :thumb: if I see it well it habe an extra support but without getter??1957,1958's D getter version also has an extra suppoter without getter on it.
1957,1958's D getter version also has an extra suppoter without getter on it.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98408)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98409)
it does not touch the square getter,kind like telefunken ecc801s's extra supporter.talking about tele ecc801s, how do you compare the sound of early double oo getter with common one?
I think the right one is early version,because not only with no bar,but also with an early version D getter ,the D getter is a little narrow and the wire is also alittle thick,it only appears in early version.I can't see any different size of the getter and the wire :scratch:but when looking at the 1552 version the plate doesn't have bar on it so I guess the Bar Version is a later version :lol:
DEC,1951,made by philips venolanda S.A. D getter welded plates
](http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98405)
this Mullard have the same welded plates but how can it was made in 1956 compare to 1951,five years welded plates still in production ? I doubt it.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98492)
Welded plates in 1956? :scratch: quite strange, wrong codes? :scratch:If the printed is right ( R6D ) then the 1951 version should not been made in that year. :scratch:
talking about tele ecc801s, how do you compare the sound of early double oo getter with common one?Basically it still sounds like a telefunken ecc801s, Pitch-black back ground,detailed picture.but also mixed with some philips copenhagen(I don't know)? normal 801s sounds a little thin,it doesn't.most impressive point is it makes music lively,normal 801s sounds a little mechanic.
Welded plates in 1956? :scratch: quite strange, wrong codes? :scratch:the picure of this tube I saw in the web seems all coded R6, I have 1 also has a R6 code.maybe welded plates didn't only appears before 1953,valvo 6211 was made in 1960s but also with welded plates.I prefer of believing it was made in 1956.
Basically it still sounds like a telefunken ecc801s, Pitch-black back ground,detailed picture.but also mixed with some philips copenhagen(I don't know)? normal 801s sounds a little thin,it doesn't.most impressive point is it makes music lively,normal 801s sounds a little mechanic.I would feel guilty like you :green: if they do not sound very different than common ecc801s (you described these ones exactly as I hear it) it's better preserve these very scarce tubes.... who knows how many remains?? :scratch: very few for sure!
it's so rare I don't know how many still remains in this planet,maybe less than 100 or 200? so put it on amp is a crime and makes me feel guity :green: I only put it on less than half hour. :duh: let's just forget it.
This one without diamond bottom is code B fp 02=february 1954, so according to your B vp 02=august 1954 the diamond for Telefunken ecc81 was first introduced somewhere between march and august 1954 :)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/zxs4m9.jpg)
These Telefunken with no diamond mark with horizontal printed,one of them have more black top.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98707)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=98708)
This one without diamond bottom is code B fp 02=february 1954, so according to your B vp 02=august 1954 the diamond for Telefunken ecc81 was first introduced somewhere between march and august 1954 :)before 1954,telefunken seems hadn't found their best stracture of ecc81,so they change the stracture frequently.
Venezuela plant??? very strange tube :scratch:.... very early too! :)it's a very strange tube :lol:
can I have a side pic? must be welded plate, d or square getter... :roll:wait a few days
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99226)What a beast, looks like 10.000 watt!!
Not mine, they're my friend's.
I have not seen any better Transcendent Beast build than his. I hope you guys will enjoy the photos and stories. Full link here: http://sharksphotos.yolasite.com/
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99226)
Not mine, they're my friend's.
I have not seen any better Transcendent Beast build than his. I hope you guys will enjoy the photos and stories. Full link here: http://sharksphotos.yolasite.com/
wait a few daysStill not arrived yet?
These Mullard ECC82 have the same construction but one pair of them was made after three years.MULLARD ECC82 from 1955-1959 are all similer stracture right?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99537)
Still not arrived yet?still on the way,but worth to wait.it's one of weird one on philips ecc81 history :lol:
MULLARD ECC82 from 1955-1959 are all similer stracture right?Yes, they are the same but what surprised me is the Mitcham made them in 1958 ( R8C ) instead of Blackburn made in 1955( B5E ) and the B7x version were already change to ring getter.
Yes, they are the same but what surprised me is the Mitcham made them in 1958 ( R8C ) instead of Blackburn made in 1955( B5E ) and the B7x version were already change to ring getter.sound different?
sound different?Not much,the R8B version sounds more dynamic and the B version have a slight smooth mid range and a little darker, I like the R8B version which sounds more lively and better transient.
Not much,the R8B version sounds more dynamic and the B version have a slight smooth mid range and a little darker, I like the R8B version which sounds more lively and better transient.that make sense.I always think W better than R and R better than B
that make sense.I always think W better than R and R better than BI have so many Mullard ECC82 valves may be it's time to test the R and B double support ring getter version.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99721)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99722)
My collection of Mullard ecc82 1953 black welded plate square getter
1593 B3
1593 C3
1593 D3
1593 F3
1593 F3
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99720)do you like it?
do you like it?Yes!!!!
Yes!!!!Copenhagen ecc81 sounds great too(welded plates)
My Mullard ECC82 Black Plate
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99727)
Thanks!I haven't seen any Black Plate Mullard ECC81 yet,the earliest 1552 I had is L3 date code (somewhere in the house but still can't find it ) I also have a 1552 D4 which I believed have the same structure of the L3 version,will post here when find them.So,I think the earliest Mullard ECC81 was made in 1953.
Is Mullard 1552 ecc81 black plate exist?
Which is the earliest production year of Mullard ecc81?
I haven't seen any Black Plate Mullard ECC81 yet,the earliest 1552 I had is L3 date code (somewhere in the house but still can't find it ) I also have a 1552 D4 which I believed have the same structure of the L3 version,will post here when find them.So,I think the earliest Mullard ECC81 was made in 1953.
It may be Mullard only used Long Black Plates and never use short black plate on their ECC81 :scratch:
My friend have a 1552 K3, that is 1953.11
But it is strange why no earlier production exist
Normally ecc81 is produced earlier than ecc82/ecc83
Thanks!philips earlist ecc81 is black plates. :D
Is Mullard 1552 ecc81 black plate exist?
Which is the earliest production year of Mullard ecc81?
philips earlist ecc81 is black plates. :D
Still not arrived yet?here comes the picture.see any strange thing?
Long metal getter support through both micas?you got sharp eyes :thumb: here's the clear picture.
Hi boys,Swedish Standard 33S29B/6SL7 the best 6SL7 :green:
An brief off topic question:
What is the best 6SL7 version??
Swedish Standard 33S29B/6SL7 the best 6SL7 :green:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99918)
Swedish Standard 33S29B/6SL7 the best 6SL7 :green:Thanks Shoot, too bad its expensive.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99918)
@FullrangermanOK, very thanks. :thumb:
I would suggest 6SU7 type, second best to 33S29.......
.
Mullard ECC81,both with 1552 Date codeI consider it as those pretty mullard lady's operational miss :green: :green:
Left one with 1552 G4
Right one with 1552 D4
The only different is the Getter
I'll check mine when have time.shame I only found one,it will be interest to compare it with the R6 version
shame I only found one,it will be interest to compare it with the R6 versionfound 2 k3 also have those metal stripe :green:
found 2 k3 also have those metal stripe :green:How did they sound when compare to your R7 version?
How did they sound when compare to your R7 version?they sounds nature and plain,650 R7 R6 sounds much more transparent and gorgeous in high range.I like both of them.
Thanks, 650 R6 Square getter still,to me,are the best sounding ECC81 money can buy,I think what makes them special are the S shade metal pieces on the top mica which you will never find them in other ECC81Hi Adrianc,
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100464)
Woh! Which factory production?
May i have a photo?
:o
Your house is a goldmine.wanna rob you :green::lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Yes, don't tell your address to anyone. :nono:Hi Guy,I was thinking to send my address to shoot :lol: :lol: :lol:
Guy 13
Hi Guy,I was thinking to send my address to shoot :lol: :lol: :lol:Hi adrianc.
Found few more GZ34 Metal base
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100549)
Let you have a glimpse of the bottom. :green: mar,1951 from philips laboratory,maybe the earlist ecc81 of philips ecc81 family.Disc getter ?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=100546)
Disc getter ?yes,and welded black plates coin bottom :icon_lol:
yes,and welded black plates coin bottom :icon_lol:Like to see the whole valve if possible.
Like to see the whole valve if possible.NO PICTURES ?????
3 same code.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99869)
but.........
Hi Adrianc,
I have some 6N1P which have bend the mica points just like this image.
Same for corroded pins.
Do you think these two abnormalities are probs??
The bent mica points on the outer edge of the top mica are quite intentional and proper. They provide a tight fit for the mount (the stuff between the top and bottom mica) and the glass. If they weren't bent they might not touch and things would rattle around.Hi Roger, I will be very surprise if you had compare valves with different getter and found they sounds no difference,I wish my ears are the same as yours so I can have more time to do something else rather than searching valves :lol: :lol:
Also note the little raised hook on the top mica that holds down the cathode. That reduces microphonics. These tubes look perfect.
l don't think the shape of the getter makes any difference in the sound. The tube manufacturer just buys them from the getter guy. However it may help identify a particular vintage of manufacture as the getter guy does not always have the same stuff and sometimes he has new, better stuff. From my studies it appears that D getters came before round "halo" getters which are an improvement as they distribute the getter material more uniformly. Perhaps that is why they were invented. Why D getters are preferred is a mystery to me. They don't do nearly as good a job as halo getters.
The bent mica points on the outer edge of the top mica are quite intentional and proper. They provide a tight fit for the mount (the stuff between the top and bottom mica) and the glass. If they weren't bent they might not touch and things would rattle around.
Also note the little raised hook on the top mica that holds down the cathode. That reduces microphonics. These tubes look perfect.
l don't think the shape of the getter makes any difference in the sound. The tube manufacturer just buys them from the getter guy. However it may help identify a particular vintage of manufacture as the getter guy does not always have the same stuff and sometimes he has new, better stuff. From my studies it appears that D getters came before round "halo" getters which are an improvement as they distribute the getter material more uniformly. Perhaps that is why they were invented. Why D getters are preferred is a mystery to me. They don't do nearly as good a job as halo getters.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101271)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101272)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101273)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101274)
:lol: :lol: :lol:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101271)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101272)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101273)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101274)
The most sought after ECC83 for audiophile.But not for me.yours are brimar? :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=101994)
My top 3 ecc83 is:I'm using these ECC83 in my system,they all have their own strength and depends what amp using.No 100% winner
1.Mullard 1600 code long black welded plate square getter.
2.Philips long welded plate 45' D getter made in Copenhagen Denmark.
3.Philips long plate 45' D getter made in Heerlen Holland.
I'm using these ECC83 in my system,they all have their own strength and depends what amp using.No 100% winner
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=102045)
yours are brimar? :thumb:Yes and No
The Mullard is MC1 B5B square getter
From left to right
1 is Mullard 1960-1965 large ring getter
2 is 1955-1957 Philips long plate 45'D getter made in Heerlan Holand
3 is 1951-1954 Brimar long carbon black plate 45' square getter
Right?
Yes and NoOK.consider your collection,you have countless combination choice :thumb:
I'm using two Brimar in my Cat Ultimate and two Mullard B5B and one Bugleboy 12ax7 in the power amp
OK.consider your collection,you have countless combination choice :thumb:Yes :) that's why I need a lot of valves for
PHILIPS Copenhagen ecc82Yes,getting rare now.
Yes,getting rare now.
Put these quad GEC in the Leak and sensed a burning smell as the stickers and tubes are brand new and when the tubes gets hot and melt the stickers,shouldn't happen on used valves I think.
Some great photos here, thought I add one of my old ones KR Audio Kronzilla in its first rack... :scratch:...some tube... :D...no glow...
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=103778)
My Mullard ECC82 Black Platedo you ever saw 1956's blackburn made this kind ecc82?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=99727)
do you ever saw 1956's blackburn made this kind ecc82?No :scratch:
No :scratch:I saw some one posted a picture in a hifi BBS,brandnew.code number is k61 B6B,I guess it maybe from a profiteer who remarked the code and lable for high price.but didn't know mullard only made that kind tube in 1953.
I saw some one posted a picture in a hifi BBS,brandnew.code number is k61 B6B,I guess it maybe from a profiteer who remarked the code and lable for high price.but didn't know mullard only made that kind tube in 1953.As far as I know, black plate version only available on 1593 date code,some later grey plate 1593 J3 version ECC82.
Brimar square getter ECC83 and ECC82 with Osram , GEC stikersblack or grey plates?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104109)
Black on 12AX7, Grey on 12AU7RGN1064?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104141)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104142)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=104427)
Sophia 2A3 Meshplates
Hi sebrof.Hello Guy
If you can see the filament thru the plate, what is the meshplates made of?
What would be the main advantage to use that kind of design.
Does Sophia make other model of tubes, like the 300B or other?
Guy 13
Emission Labs makes mesh plates and will tell you why they are the best, although who knows if they're accurate: http://www.emissionlabs.com/html/products/Warning-Chinese-Fake-mesh.htmWell after I actually read the EML web page I realized they didn't say mesh plates were better. That's what I get for assuming.
Hello Guy
The mesh plate is actually technically a misnomer - The Sophias are actually perf plates / perforated plates. My understanding is that true meshplates are made of a wire mesh, and perf plates like the Sophias are solid plates with holes punched in them. The mesh plates are much more expensive to manufacture.
I like the Sophias, but how much of the sound is a function of the plates I do not know.
Sophia does indeed make 300bs with perforated plates.
Emission Labs makes mesh plates and will tell you why they are the best, although who knows if they're accurate: http://www.emissionlabs.com/html/products/Warning-Chinese-Fake-mesh.htm
Hi sebrof.Yes, true that most 300B and 2A3 are more expensive. I run single ended so only need to buy 2 at a time. That way it's not so painful to the wallet.
Thanks for the info and the link.
I think I will stay with el84 or later maybe el34 mainly because they are more affordable
than the 2A3 and 300B.
Guy 13
Hi sebrof.
Thanks for the info and the link.
I think I will stay with el84 or later maybe el34 mainly because they are more affordable
than the 2A3 and 300B.
Guy 13
I really like the humble EL84 in single-ended applications: when done right it can hold its own against the true triodes!
Here are my EL84 monoblock amps:
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w178/whobody/KeggerAmps/0521013.jpg)
Hi Redboy,I would guess the round transformer are a expensive Tango choke.
may I know what are the components on your monoblocs?
I think the thin chromed cans are capacitors,
but what about the one in the front?
I guess your monoblocs put out about 2 wpc?
What the manufacturer's name,
I would like to go on their website to learn more.
Guy 13
Hi Redboy,Hi Guy,
may I know what are the components on your monoblocs?
I think the thin chromed cans are capacitors,
but what about the one in the front?
I guess your monoblocs put out about 2 wpc?
What the manufacturer's name,
I would like to go on their website to learn more.
Guy 13
Hi Guy,Hi Redboy,
You're right - the taller cylinders are capacitors. At front are the output transformers, which are made by James Audio. I think your power output guess is about right, though they may manage another watt or so beyond that - I don't know, as I haven't had the means to measure.
No website, unfortunately, as I built them myself...
I've had them along to a couple of audio meets over the years, and they've been well received. The EL84 is no slouch, when treated properly.
Hi Redboy,I might mention that although it doesn't look like Redboy spends a lot of time on this forum, on at least one other forum he is well know as a very respected and knowledgeable builder. Dude builds a lot of stuff. :thumb:
may I call you Superboy?
You made them yourself !
Those are really, really nice units.
Thanks.
Guy 13
Hi Redboy,
may I call you Superboy?
You made them yourself !
Those are really, really nice units.
Thanks.
Guy 13
One last thing.
May I ask what make - type of tubes you are using.
Look like el84M EH, what about the others?
Is the rectifier tube a 6X4 ?
If it is would it be better to use a 5AR4 or 5U4 ?
I might mention that although it doesn't look like Redboy spends a lot of time on this forum, on at least one other forum he is well know as a very respected and knowledgeable builder. Dude builds a lot of stuff. :thumb:
Thanks for the kind words, Guy.Hi Redboy.
Tube complement is EL84 power tube (I roll a lot of vintage glass through), 6AU6 driver, and an EZ81/6CA4 rectifier. The 6CA4 is a stout little tube, totally up to the task. I like it quite a bit, and with a good power supply (this one's got two chokes and poly in oil film caps), it sounds excellent. I don't think a 5AR4 or 5U4 would be better, though they would likely be different. Changing rectifiers in a given circuit will affect the B+ voltage, as different rectifiers have different voltage drops - I'm one of those guys that believes the different tonal qualities attributed to those tubes are largely a result of changed operating points in a given circuit.
Blown my cover, eh? :-)
Hi Redboy.
Please forget about your blown cover, we need more guys like you
here on AC.
Whenever you feel like it, please post more pictures of those monoblock
or any other creations of yours.
Guy 13
Hi Redboy.This personal taste thing is funny, isn't it? Aesthetics are important to me and I spend too much time thinking about them - some projects stall completely because I can't find a way to make them look right... :duh:
Thanks for all the nice pictures,
that's more than what I was expecting.
Thanks a lot.
I really prefer the look of your el84
My only comment, that's because of my personal taste,
I would like to see the wood base a darker color and that's because I don't really like natural wood, it's too pale for me, like liveless.
Other than that, I love the look.
One question, how would you describe the difference in sound between the el84 and the 2A3 ?They can be quite similar, actually. They're both such great sounding tubes... I have a friend who is fond of saying that "you can't build a bad sounding EL84 amp". Similarly, there's an old Sound Practices article (SP15) by Joe Roberts called "I Never Met a 2A3 Amp That I Didn't Like" (Google it - it's a fun read!).
Blown my cover, eh? :-)My guess is they would have figured it out soon enough
I'm getting to the point where I would like to build yet another pair of EL84 amps using slightly better components. The James Audio transformers I used before are nice, but I think even better iron would raise this little tube to new levels...I built my 2A3 SET with the James 6112 output transformers (looks like your EL84 amp has the 6112s or 6113s) and it sounded pretty good. A buddy of mine loaned me his pair of Electraprint transformers and it completely changed the amp for the better. I still have the Electraprints.
I built my 2A3 SET with the James 6112 output transformers (looks like your EL84 amp has the 6112s or 6113s) and it sounded pretty good. A buddy of mine loaned me his pair of Electraprint transformers and it completely changed the amp for the better. I still have the Electraprints.Exactly right. And going back to what I was saying about the reputation of the EL84 as just a "good" tube - many people's assessment of it is based on their experience listening to it in an old console amp, with cheaply wound output transformers smaller than the average deck of cards.
Big difference in price, and James makes better transformers so no knock on James products. But I agree that the OPTs can make a big difference.
This personal taste thing is funny, isn't it? Aesthetics are important to me and I spend too much time thinking about them - some projects stall completely because I can't find a way to make them look right... :duh:
They can be quite similar, actually. They're both such great sounding tubes... I have a friend who is fond of saying that "you can't build a bad sounding EL84 amp". Similarly, there's an old Sound Practices article (SP15) by Joe Roberts called "I Never Met a 2A3 Amp That I Didn't Like" (Google it - it's a fun read!).
The two tubes have very different reputations, though. While the 2A3 is one of the darlings of the SET world and often gets built into modern kilobuck audiophile amplifiers, the EL84 is better known for its use in grungy guitar amplifiers, consoles and push-pull tube receivers from the vintage HiFi era. Most people haven't heard the EL84 treated properly, so that was one of my design goals in the monoblock amps you like: I wanted to see if this humble tube could play with the big boys if it were supported by a robust power supply, quality output transformers and audiophile-approved components.
They've got distinctive tonal traits, but the two tubes are more similar than they are different. The EL84 excels at high end detail and is very sweet in the midrange. It has good tonal balance across the audio spectrum. The 2A3 is excellent in these areas too, and has a slight edge over the EL84 in it's ability to throw a large(r?) soundstage. If I absolutely had to choose between the two, I would pick the 2A3 but it would be a tough choice to make.
I'm getting to the point where I would like to build yet another pair of EL84 amps using slightly better components. The James Audio transformers I used before are nice, but I think even better iron would raise this little tube to new levels...
Crazy, this hobby. :roll:
Hi Redboy.Obviusly you will choose the Lolita w/EL34 and 8W.
Thanks for taking the time to share with me your experience.
I do have 48 years of audio experience,
but it's always good to hear a different view.
I am not a DIYer and if I had the money (Which I don't have)
I would buy a Decware SE34I.4
or a Wright Audio Lolita (Both use el34)
or a Bottlehead Stereomour 2A3.
But I am dreaming now...
Guy 13
Obviusly you will choose the Lolita w/EL34 and 8W.
2A3 w/ 2W are a bit useless, hard to find a speaker sensitive enough to match it.
Now w/the departure of Tango, James and Hashimoto are favored by builders.
Hi FullRangeMan.At this point of low power one may even no need volume pot with the right sensitivity SPL for changing the sound intensity.
With the Bottlehead Stereomour 2A3 you get 3.5 wpc.
Any extended range driver with 93dB + can be driven by 2 wpc amplifier like my Decware SE84C+
to satisfying level.
Guy 13
At this point of low power one may even no need volume pot with the right sensitivity SPL for changing the sound intensity.That's a strange comment: I don't know anyone who does that. My speakers are about 94 dB and my amps push less than a watt. Sure, I could run them without an attenuator without risk of damage to the drivers, but it'd be obnoxiously loud for my taste. Most of my listening is done at half volume or so....
It wil run direct, constant volume, no changes.
A feature not negligible.
At this point of low power one may even no need volume pot with the right sensitivity SPL for changing the sound intensity.Hi FullRangeMan.
It wil run direct, constant volume, no changes.
A feature not negligible.
These are my first tube amps , I just got them Friday . I was going to go with KT88's but upgraded to the 150's so to be honest I never compared them to other output tubes . I have a few hours on these mono blocks and was and they sound just perfect , I cant find any reason to try different tubes at this point .Nice looking amps.
I read that KT88'S and KT150'S was the best way to go skipping the 120's I have very good Bass for sure
65w
My first completed amp build.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105046)
Outer, with EML 2A3M.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105047)
Inner.
Thanks for taking the time to look.
Cheers,
Ray
Hi Guy,Hi (Again) Ray.
No problem - I welcome curious!
Firstly, this not an ideal layout - I could not wait until all components were received before doing the final layout for the custom chassis and sub-chassis. But, to answer your questions...
The capacitors on top are ASC Bluelines for the power supply (I'd like the ones supplying the driver stage to be closer to the the plate R). Under the chassis we have the 47uF Mundorf films for output stage cathode bypass; 0.22uF Jupiter wax for coupling; 2x 22uF (per channel) little blue films for input/driver cathode bypass; and finally, 2x 2uF (per channel) beige 2uF NOS PIO for input/driver screen bypass. No electrolytic capacitors.
Yeah, I guess for a low powered amp there are a lot of capacitors. My next build - a refined version of this amp - will not have the coupling capacitors, but will have roughly twice as many capacitors in total.
Feel free to ask any other questions at all.
Cheers,
Ray
My first completed amp build.Nice build Ray. Thanks for posting
Outer, with EML 2A3M.
Thanks for taking the time to look.
Cheers,
Ray
I've never posted pictures of the underside of mine for good reason :DThe only reason to shame is if they use PCBs.
Hi Guy,
Apologies - I had my mind on dinner!
WPC is roughly 2.5W. I run the outputs at lower dissipation than most - this is better for the EML 2A3M tubes: they (supposedly) sound much better and will last longer! That said, I am planning to try the solid plate 2A3S soon as well.
Yes, this is a power amp only. Volume and input selection are controlled by the DAC...
Other components: you have seen the speakers and the DAC is a W4S DAC2 for now... I am awaiting delivery of an AMR DP-777 SE. I currently run a older MAC Mini as a source... but that will also be changed to a decent quality streamer by the end of the year (I hope!).
Cheers,
Ray
The only reason to shame is if they use PCBs.Are you sure about that?? :oops:
Nice build Ray. Thanks for posting
I've never posted pictures of the underside of mine for good reason :D
6c6 drivers?
Have you listened to other 2A3s? I've had several but never the EMLs, just wondering how they compare. My 2 favorites are JJ 2A3-40 and Sophia 2A3 Mesh plates.
Are you sure about that?? :oops:Not reason to afraid, its a nice point to point wiring.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105068)
I've been planning to build another case and rebuild the amp, but I just never get around to it. One of these days...
Not reason to afraid, its a nice point to point wiring.Thanks - I feel better now :thumb:
No thin wires, no bend wires turn in hi angles(which may broken the copper molecules);
Thanks for posting. :thumb:
Yes, this is a power amp only. Volume and input selection are controlled by the DAC...
Other components: you have seen the speakers and the DAC is a W4S DAC2 for now... I am awaiting delivery of an AMR DP-777 SE. I currently run a older MAC Mini as a source... but that will also be changed to a decent quality streamer by the end of the year (I hope!).
Cheers,
Ray
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa189/joeling39/hifi/PSVANE212_zpsa62e98dc.jpg) (http://s198.photobucket.com/user/joeling39/media/hifi/PSVANE212_zpsa62e98dc.jpg.html)big bomb :D
Holding the PSVANE 212 tube in my hand.
Hi joeling39
Nice looking tube, impressive size.
I give nice sound, light-up and heat up your listening room,
all from one big tube. :thumb:
Guy 13
The AMR is a wonderful sounding DAC. I have reviewed several of their less expensive iFi components, including a couple of their DACs and found them to be tremendous values. In fact, I just bought their new Micro iDSD DAC for use in future reviews. Enjoy your AMR when you receive it.
Bass still cannot beat the Gryphon - not as well controlled.
Within the context of a given speaker: output power affects volume and expands the delta between quiet and loud; damping factor (amplifier output impedance relative to speaker load) determines bass control. Some speakers - especially mid to high Q drivers in most cabinet alignments (think designs that are OB or have little drivers trying to produce convincing bass) - will generally sound soft, flabby and uncontrolled unless driven by a low output impedance amp. Generally speaking, a triode output without an unusually high primary load or negative feedback will NOT have a low output impedance (there are some exceptions).
My point is that your speakers may need a low impedance drive. If this is the case, unless your amp resorts to large amounts of negative feedback - despite the big tube and relative big "power" - it is unlikely to provide the drive required. You may be able to mitigate offensive sonic issues with some component changes, but you will never address the fundamental issue while you match a high impedance output to a speaker that requires a lower impedance output.
That said, your amplifier may use negative feedback to lower the output impedance and/or your speakers may not need the low damping factor, in which case I am speaking through my...
Cheers.
Hey Paul - Enjoy it I will. I prefer to buy something I expect to genuinely enjoy and tend to upgrade about once every decade; hopefully the '777 SE fits the bill. Have been awaiting for a while though... I think AMR will wait until it is absolutely right before they release it, which is ideal for me! Their iFi stuff is also supposed to be excellent.
Keep well,
Ray.
Yes, I'd realise that. The ProAc more suited to amps with low output impedance with greater current.
But I want my tubes.... :green:
Hi adrianc ,do you ever see this kind siemens 5814A(12au7)? :green:I also have questions to Adrianc, if I know him he will no post while restrict. :- ((
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=105131)
7318's
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=107071)
250TH made in Brazil by Ivape(subsidiary from BBC-Brown Bovery Company).Hi FullRangeMan.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=109119&size=huge)
Its a hi gain triode from Eimac for transmiting app(amplifing, oscilation, modulation).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceByMJV5AwQ
This version is very cheap on Ebay, just $20 bid from a São Paulo vendor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250TH-NOS-tube-/151480618688?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2344f2cec0
I unknow the original price, but I suspect its was expensive, I dont own this tube.
A audio amp to this tube would be expensive due a HV power supply and transformers.
Jap builders do amps with the 100TH with 1200Vdc and 100mA.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AkeaAXR5Yo
Western Electric 205D:
The holy grail tube? It could be...
Philips type 80 rectifier, the best type 80 rectifier I have ever heard. Made in Holland.
I thought the holy grail was the WE metal base 101d.Hi wisnon,
I have a weak pair of black base 101d (ST shape), a single metal base el34, 2 metal base GZ34, slim bottle GZ37, 83v rectis, cunningham 345 globes, vintage 6A3 tubes and some other sought after small signal tubes. Nothing like what i see you post though.
Hi Jehuty,They're pretty much on par but if you put a gun on my head, I'll take the type 80 because I like the mesh plate hahaha.... Having said that, I would take the Genelex Gold Lion U52 over pretty much any tube rectifiers (that's including the Western Electric 274B, YMMV) so if you can get the Gold Lion, go for it! And if you don't like it, please sell it to me. Always happy to collect the Gold Lion :)
Do you consider this type 80 to be better than the GEC U52 recti?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=109806)Man this bag is sealed since 1960!
Western Electric 205D:nice & rare tube
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=109483) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=109484)
The holy grail tube? It could be...
BBQ burgers, ice cold beer in frozen mug, and a Jolida 202a. :thumb:
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/BobinStLouis/Non-Home%20Theater%20stuff/DSC_0156.jpg)
Western Electric WE212E ang GM70.Wow impressive amp.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=139119)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=140716)Ok, so those are some mighty fine art deco tube hats you have there!
Wow that alot of amp! Can you say what are yours impressions on the sound quality this amp?Well, the first one (black) - Agate: deep but tight bass, much air and ethereal, while full with music and power. Actually, this is my favorite amplifier. Anode voltage is 450V.
The B+ are 1200VDC?
Well, the first one (black) - Agate: deep but tight bass, much air and ethereal, while full with music and power. Actually, this is my favorite amplifier. Anode voltage is 450V.Very nice, I dont know the GMI-11 works w/''low'' tension as 650V.
For the second (white) - Equinox: exploding dynamics, uncompromising presence across the audible range, with very solid bass foundation, natural and vibrant vocals, subtle and unobtrusive high with excellent resolution. Anode voltage here is 650V.
In view of the 6C33 and GM70 success do you plan any amp w/these tubes?
looks beautiful I bet it sounds as good ! thanks for sharing !
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167947)
Old Luxman MQ3600
(http://busterfree.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-2/p2498391663-4.jpg)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=167947)Some old Luxman used Sansui transformers, which staff now are Hashimoto engineers.
Old Luxman MQ3600
For some reason the pictures upside down
1)4th version
2) 1st version
3)2nd version
4)5th version
First version sound.. fantastic mid,the best I had ever heard,seductive,neutral ,tonal balance is on the warm side,smooth and relax with enough transparent when listen to single instrument without boring,if you mainly listen to vocals,nothing can beat it.
Second version... this one sounds more open and tight,good attack and more transparent,mid is clean and should suit more different system.
Forth version.. this one sounds brighter and the mid is leaner,beautiful high with tight bass,not as musical as its older brothers.
Fifth version... this one sounds not that good,the mid is cloudy and the high is hash ,bass not solid.
I did compare these 4 version few years ago and this second tested remind me that I'm right as the Mullard F31 is still the best sounding GZ34 money can buy,if someone can send us some review of the Third version will be appreciate.
Lately, been listening to a tube setup as a change of pace, and enjoying it immensely. Tubes can sound wonderful with Jazz/Standards, and older recorded music in general.
The preamp is a Thomas Mayer 6AH4 clone, which is one of the best sounding tube preamps I've ever heard. It's VERY quiet, especially for a tube setup.
Well, it IS a tube, just probably not an audio tube... RF transmitter tube of some kind?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=253557)