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Or, are you simply referring to the overall phase delay from the bottom to the top of the response?Overall. Put a signal into a 1st-order crossover, then sum the outputs. What you get out will be what you put in (minus some resistive losses, etc.). You can't do that with higher-order crossovers.Quote from: Stuart KrivisThere is disagreement on how important phase "coherency" is, and none of the tests I've seen have been worthwhile. I feel it is very important, and the step function test reveals why most speakers can't pass a transient properly.All of the tests I have read have some value. Maybe you should conduct the perfect test?
There is disagreement on how important phase "coherency" is, and none of the tests I've seen have been worthwhile. I feel it is very important, and the step function test reveals why most speakers can't pass a transient properly.
i was under the impresion that a major reason for wanting to use really steep x-over slopes was that so a driver could be used that is optimized for a specific frequency range, w/o have to worry so much how its performance deteriorates outside this range. that way, blending of two drivers shouldn't be so difficult, (theoretically), as the distortion component of each driver on either side of the x-over is now so much smaller. w/the woofer & tweeter having little distortion, this is also supposed to resul ...
The only real problem I have with them is their use of metal dome tweeters. They're going to break up at high frequencies.
An alternative (to stiff cones) is to seek better drivers...
QuoteThe only real problem I have with them is their use of metal dome tweeters. They're going to break up at high frequencies. What is the characterstic sound of metal dome tweeters?What is the characteristic sound of uncontrolled metal diaphram reonance?Do all metal dome tweeters sound the same? If not, why?QuoteAn alternative (to stiff cones) is to seek better drivers...Exactly how are they better?
With a cone, the surround is in the right place to control the bad behavior. With a dome, there's nothing there to control it...
In my opinion, the big flaw to a dome tweeter is that there's no way to control the center of the dome, except by damping within the dome material itself.
At high frequencies, cones want to become smaller cones. Domes want to become ring radiators.
The Accuton metal tweeters claim to have good damping due to the structure of the metal. I would like to hear some speakers using them to see for myself.
Better drivers... there we get into my opinion that "stiff enough" drivers with good damping characteristics are better than stiffer drivers that don't have self-damping.
Quote from: skrivisAt high frequencies, cones want to become smaller cones. Domes want to become ring radiators.What exactly does this mean?
Accuton tweeters and driver diaphrams are ceramic.
What materials absorb sound/sound energy? How do these materals absorb sound/energy?
What materials don't absorb sound/sound energy ? How do these materials reflect sound/energy?
I tend to think that a reasonably light and stiff material with good internal damping will have a low enough magnitude in the out of phase areas that it won't cause major problems.
So the voice coil is attempting to move at 20 KHz. The area of the diaphragm closest to the voice coil will follow along. The farther you get from the voice coil, the less the diaphragm immediately follows the voice coil. You get areas where the diaphragm is out of phase or even in anti-phase.
By converting it into heat.
everything is a compromise, i guess, eh?
Doug! If you stay out of politics, you almost sound like know about what you're speaking Actually, I'd rather comment on a few things:Cone dampening - If you try to delete the cone resonance of a metal driver, you add mass, it's largely going to be futile, it drives the resonance and the FR downward and know you have a small driver that has the characteristics of a large driver, but can't move air. On the other hand, let it ring, keep it as light as possible, then cut it off sharply enough and ...
So, you build a good, solid (but not *overbuilt) cabinet, spend a little more on the crossover and buy the best drivers available. That's what I'd do.
The more rigid they are, the more detailed and lower in distortion they are. Real resolution. Not faked, like most companies with resonant drivers or overdone upper midrange.
Anyway hope you don't mind my comments.