[hifiguy]

Getting ready to listen to the speakers now for the first time in 15 years - pre any rebuild or refurbishment FINALLY. Health delays have cleared and I am ready to go again.

Speakers and components have been kept in a fully air conditioned home - simply stored.

Amp was a newly rebuilt / improved Hafler DH500 from Musical Concepts (PA-3D Signature - Dual Mono 2011) - full treatment with all new large caps and toroidal transformers - stacked.

Pre amp was a rebuilt / improved Apt Holman out or Audiographics with Tom Holman helping / guiding Ed (2015).

What should I do first before starting them up for the first time - in anything? 

[Evoke]

My favorite piece of advice is to power up in an order where you don't get a bass thump. Also with the power down. From there, turn it up a little to see if everything is working. Leave everything on if okay 24/7, yes caps sound better when left with a signal on. Over a few days play them louder and see where you stand.


From that point, you will have a good idea of 'what's next'.  Have fun. "It's all about the music!"


Mark

[Stimpy]

Welcome back hifiguy.  Good to see you here again.  And I can relate with health issues causing delays.  I'm still trying to finish up a pair of Acoustic Research AR90s, that I recapped 5 years ago.  Life gets in the way, I suppose.   

Plus, I agree with Mark.  Carefully turn everything on.  Volume off/muted.  Turn your source on first, followed by the preamp.  Once they're warmed up, if possible, listen to music with headphones, to ensure everything sounds correct.  Only after that, would I power up the amp.  Then again, let the amp warm up and settle in, for at least half an hour.  If all seems normal, and the amp temp isn't too hot, I'd proceed to give the speakers some volume.  Low at first, then more if no issues are heard.  It might take the speakers a bit to settle in too, as the caps may have to reform as well, after 15 years. 

Hope everything works!   

[hifiguy]

New power amp is (now) indicated for my VMPS IIa/R SEs. Modded Hafler DH500 by MC just isn't making it. Apt is also too long in the tooth now. Integrated seems right.

Starting new given my LONG time retired from listening.

Looking at this so far from a PURELY sound perspective:

1. Pass Labs INT-25
2. McIntosh MAC7200

Do we know my the speakers minimum load? Class A is good. Autoformers make things easier perhaps. Can't find a location to hear them both yet.... The VMPSs are current hungry certainly although efficient.

LMK your thoughts.

[davidc1]

I'm not sure if yours use the Focal T-120 tweeters, but if so, they can be rebuilt. Also, as an amp suggestion, if you like vintage, there is a great community of people refurbishing Carver stuff from the 80's and 90's.    thecarversite.com

[hifiguy]

My speakers are the Special Editions that added OEM single-amp "module"—two additional inputs and a toggle switch aimed at bi-wiring—already installed, IAR Wondercap crossover capacitors, Monster Powerline I internal wiring, and the newest Focal 1" "Superdome" tweeters.

... and I do like the older classic stuff (witness my clinging to Hafler / APT) up until you listen to the new best stuff now.

1. Pass Labs INT-25
2. McIntosh MAC7200

???

[opnly bafld]

Accuphase
Luxman

[hifiguy]

I read about the current Luxmans too. A possible contender but I need to wrestle with this list first - if I can.

My focus with some added help here remains on trying to compare:

1. Pass Labs INT-25
2. McIntosh MAC7200

Has anyone heard these guys to comment for me on possible results I might hear with my VMPS IIa/R - SE?

Thanks in advance for sharing your judgements.

HFG

[davidc1]

Can you tell me what exact model of Focal tweeters they are? Did you ever take them out of the cabinet?

[hifiguy]

Sorry, no I do not know more than posted here.

[hifiguy]

Okay - how about the differences heard listening to:

1. Pass Labs INT-25
2. McIntosh MAC7200

.... on any speakers used during the listening test?

[davidc1]

If you feel comfortable pulling one of the tweeters out of the cabinet and turning it around to look at the model number, it would be incredibly useful. It's sort of a black hole that we haven't been able to figure out exactly which model it is.

If you're not used to this, it's pretty easy. You basically just unscrew the screws. There's probably five of them pull it out. Look at the back, put it back in again and screw the screws in again.