AudioCircle
Industry Circles => GR Research => Topic started by: Captainhemo on 27 Jul 2020, 07:13 pm
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Ok, we finally cut the initial run of these ( 8 pairs remaining as I type this). We'll cut more if there is interest. These came out really nice.. Rabbets for all outer panel joints, dados for internal bracing/divider and a full rabbet around the top for the included grill frame. Driver mounting screw pilot holes pre-drilled, .5" vertical roundover on front baffle edges and a nice radius on rear side of woofer cutout.A .125" pilot hole is pre-drilled in the grill frame for easy istallation of a small cabinet knob if desired.
Baffles with waveguides and backside operations take considerable time to cut, they are cut from solid 1.5" MDF , same material as our sub kits use. Not your typical box store MDF
Remaining outer panels are .75" Medex and internal bracing/dividers and grill frame are .5" Medex.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212433)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212434)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212456)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212457)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212458)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212459)
Price is $379/pair + shjipping (50lb 21x21x11" box). Shipping is a flat $70 anywhere in US/Canada
These will be sold in order I receive emails captainhemo@shaw.ca.
NOTE, you need to email me at the above address to confirm a pair
We sent a pair off to Peter so he could do an assembly video to help with kit assembly. Here is the link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYrdScf9eyM&feature=youtu.be
jay :beer:
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:D those look dandy. Well done. Does Danny have all the parts ?? :D
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Danny has all the parts, I just ordered a set.
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I'll try and get some additonal pics later today.... some of the individual parts
jay
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Just shot you an email!
This will probably be a slow build for me over the next few months while I save up to aquire the necessary tools and kit, but i definitely want to get these done up extra nice. :thumb:
(I should be able to convert the spare bedroom into an office by the end of next month, so they will be going in there)
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Man those look niiiiiice.
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Awesome Jay. Those look great.
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Yeah, it's a really nice kit, should make it really easy for guys to get these built. Niticed I missed one little thing...I should have added a little 3/16" hole in flat/stubby divider for tweeter wire pass through... you guys will need to pop one in when youi build them out. I'll add that to next run.
Down to 4 pairs left already !
And, Peter is going to do another assembly video for us so that will be really helpful for guys wanting/needing some guidence .
jay
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I have the Super 7's.
But I want these.
I have a problem
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I have the Super 7's.
But I want these.
I have a problem
I have the Super 7s, the GR Research hotrodded Klipsch Forte IIIs and I ALSO want the Studio Monitors. Seems you and I share the same problem.... :lol:
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Guys, it's not a rare issue :LOL:
jay
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I have the Super 7's.
But I want these.
I have a problem
Huh? These aren't that big!
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I have the Super 7s, the GR Research hotrodded Klipsch Forte IIIs and I ALSO want the Studio Monitors. Seems you and I share the same problem.... :lol:
I *just* built a pair of XLS Encores, & I'm definitely getting a pair, so ditto... :P
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I solved my problem by planing on replacing the N2Xs in my bedroom with the studio Monitors and moving N2Xs into wife kitchen system. Problem solved and points with the wife. :icon_lol:
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I have the Super 7s, the GR Research hotrodded Klipsch Forte IIIs and I ALSO want the Studio Monitors. Seems you and I share the same problem.... :lol:
Let’s see, I have the N1Xs, N3s, A/V-1RSs, LGK 1.0s, Skinny 6s & Flat 5 (not finished yet), Wedgies, NX-Otica MTMs/dual H-frames, X-Omnis, a sandbox sub, and a Studio Monitor in progress. I’ve had the X-LS & X-CS Encores but I gave them to my step-son when I built the Wedgies. I wonder if I need some more :scratch:
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OK Mike you win. You have the biggest problem. :lol:
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OK Mike you win. You have the biggest problem. :lol:
Can you really have too much of a good thing tho?
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Let’s see, I have the N1Xs, N3s, A/V-1RSs, LGK 1.0s, Skinny 6s & Flat 5 (not finished yet), Wedgies, NX-Otica MTMs/dual H-frames, X-Omnis, a sandbox sub, and a Studio Monitor in progress. I’ve had the X-LS & X-CS Encores but I gave them to my step-son when I built the Wedgies. I wonder if I need some more :scratch:
Come clean, Mike. I know you have more!
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Let’s see, I have the N1Xs, N3s, A/V-1RSs, LGK 1.0s, Skinny 6s & Flat 5 (not finished yet), Wedgies, NX-Otica MTMs/dual H-frames, X-Omnis, a sandbox sub, and a Studio Monitor in progress. I’ve had the X-LS & X-CS Encores but I gave them to my step-son when I built the Wedgies. I wonder if I need some more :scratch:
Jeez, I thought I was bad. :lol:
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Come clean, Mike. I know you have more!
Well, there is the pair of X-MTM Encores I gave my neice, and another pair I gave my nephew, and the LCR triplet of X-CS Encores I gave my step-daughter, and the X-LS Encores that Ron has. The rest I’ve built for other people so they don’t really count..... :dunno:
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Sorry to spoil the fun but here's some more on topic pics
I actually moved these over to the initial post in this thread
jay :beer:
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Damn those look good! I'm excited fo get my hands on these! :thumb:
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Looks as good as all your flatpacks :thumb:
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Those look fantastic, including the grill frame. Do I end up with two baffles if I order Danny’s kit and the flat pack?
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Jay said that Dannys baffle won't fit his boxes and just let Danny know that you're ordering flat packs from Jay.
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Jay said that Dannys baffle won't fit his boxes and just let Danny know that you're ordering flat packs from Jay.
That's a good bit of info! Thanks for the heads up!
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This is exactly what I was waiting for. But I ordered speakers already doh
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Yeah guys, good advice above... just let Danny know that you got a flat pack from us so you don't end up with 2 sets of baffles.
Down to 1 pair on this initial run !!
jay
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Hey, jay!
Any update on the flatpack shipping costs?
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Boxes were finally delivered, we'll try and pack a set up this afternoon and get a weight so I can get accurate prcing
jay
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Awesome! Looking forward to the email!
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Which one of Danny's kits are these for? I didn't see them on his site. Looking for a high quality monitor for my test benches.
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Which one of Danny's kits are these for? I didn't see them on his site. Looking for a high quality monitor for my test benches.
They are for the NX-Studio monitors. They aren't on the site yet, but will be once the new site goes live.
You can read SonicJoys build thread here:
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=168181.0
And the Studio Monitor development thread here:
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=160647.0
You can also watch Ron his brother and Danny talk about them here:
https://youtu.be/8xxFKVC2Xro
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Great. Thanks for the links and info. Looks like a good, high quality monitor that may be perfect for my needs. Don't have time for building cabinets (and don't have a woodshop any longer) so the flat packs would be the selling point for me. Will be following.
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Hi Jay:
Any chance you could do a run using baltic birch ply? I think this design with the waveguide tweeter would look killer in a natural satin BB ply finish.
limits
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Would really have to think on this one, BB is sized "wierd" IMHO and not sure there'd be a lot of interesst. BB is also realatively expensive compared to the high quality MDF/Medex we use
jay
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Would really have to think on this one, BB is sized "wierd" IMHO and not sure there'd be a lot of interesst. BB is also realatively expensive compared to the high quality MDF/Medex we use
jay
Understood. Never hurts to ask, right? :) Thanks, Jay
limits
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You're right, and you never know... possibly even a run of baffles might be cool if we could laminate/size them decently.
jay
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The cabs in this initial run have all been spoken for at this point.
If there is more interest, let us know and we'll work on an additiional run.
For you guys who ordered these, boxes are in, each will be approx 50lbs.
Feel free to post some pics / comments in here after you've got your kits
jay
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Awesome! Thanks for the Update, Jay!
I'm excited to get them! I'll definitely be sure to share pics once they arrive~ :thumb:
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I think half these are on their way now, some of you should receive them early next week. Working on getting the rest out.
We're also reserving pairs from the next run now
jay
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Mine is currently due to arrive Tuesday, glad I jumped on my pack early! :thumb:
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Mines scheduled for Monday, thanks Jay and Don. :angel:
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For those of you that flat-packs have shipped, what was shipping cost and to which part of the US? Thanks.
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It was around $55 for shipping to Orlando.
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Thanks, Hobbs.
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For those of you that flat-packs have shipped, what was shipping cost and to which part of the US? Thanks.
Box is 21"x21"x11" and weighs 50lbs. Shipping costs are averaging around $55 - $65 , have packs going to pretty much all 4 corners of US
jay
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Just got the email that my flat pack arrived, I'll take come pics of it once i get home and do some dry fitting. :thumb:
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Very interested in these (NX-Studio) but trying to get a handle on the pricing. Is the following pricing correct?
NX Studio Monitor Flat Pack - $369
NX Studio Kit From Danny - $895
+ Shipping
Thx,
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Very interested in these (NX-Studio) but trying to get a handle on the pricing. Is the following pricing correct?
NX Studio Monitor Flat Pack - $369
NX Studio Kit From Danny - $895
+ Shipping
Thx,
I know the price did go up a bit due to the introduction of the Copper bypass cap, but since the kit normally includes the front baffle, it might be a little cheaper for those that order a flatpack?
That said, I don't know off hand since i wont be ordering the kit till probably October or November once I figure out my plan for staining & sealing the veneer with some practice panels..
Current plan is a candy-red stained quilted maple, but I may go back to my original plan of a dark stained walnut if i can't get the red to look the way I want.
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Okay! I'm home & have the flat pack out, its in perfect shape, plenty of soft foam on all sides to keep everything safe and in place. Thr cuts are also super clean. :thumb:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213421&size=large)
I also test fit the BG Neo3 I have on hand, mostly To check the clearance and fitment. (Including the little 3D printed bars)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213423&size=large)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213422&size=large)
I also did a dry test fit for ideas on how best to assemble it.
Its probably a good idea once test fitment is done, to mark the bottom of the slope as well as each left and right panel to make sure I have their position and orientation correct when it comes time to properly glue them together. Cuz I put the slope in upside down & backwards the first time. :P
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213424&size=large)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213425&size=large)
My next step will be to get some clamps, glue them together and seal them with shellac. (I assume its okay to put that on before i apply the veneer to the sides/back? Or only to the parts that will be painted?)
Thanks Jay for the flatpack! These are perfect! :thumb:
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Glad you like them and that they arrived safe and sound.
Yes, if you guys find the long, angled divider angles don't work, spin it around... only fits properly one way as the angle at the "bottom" is split with the angle on the rear of the short brace (tweeter floor). Pretty hard to get the side panels backwards :)
And, as I mentioned in an email, I did overlook something with these initial kits and will fix it in future runs.... you guys who got a pair of these will need to drill a small hole in the short divider to pass the tweeter wires through... should not be a big deal.
jay
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My flat pack arrived also, looks very well made. Did a quick dry fit of one speaker, this going to be very easy to put together. Nice work Jay and Don, but what I was really impressed with is the packing you guy must have spent more time figuring it out than you did on the speaker.
:lol:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213429)
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My flat pack arrived also, looks very well made. Did a quick dry fit of one speaker, this going to be very easy to put together. Nice work Jay and Don, but what I was really impressed with is the packing you guy must have spent more time figuring it out than you did on the speaker.
:lol:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213429)
:wine: packing :thumb:
jay
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Ye, for my own sanity I still marked the slope & sides & it's directions, cuz I'd rather get it right the first time, esp once I'm ready to glue/clamp. :P
Not too worried about the missing wire holes, cuz I've got my own drill & bits. But it's definitely a good thing to point out to anyone who got this initial run.
Hoping to get the clamps & glue tomorrow & start getting them mostly assembled aside from a side panel so I can install the norez easily once it arrives, then focus on sealing the MDF and doing some research & practice passes for veneer, staining, sealing etc before I move onto apply those skills to the side & rear panels.
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I veneered the side panels BEFORE gluing up the enclosure (tip not my own but in SonicJoy's build notes). Flush trimming the side / bottom panels would be impossible / difficult given the radius of the face frame and inaccessible flat face to use a flush trim (spiral down cut worked so much better than a straight cut) router bit. Just tape off the panels to protect the veneer from glue squeeze out during glue-up / painting the front face. I gave every surface 2 coats of shellac / 120 grit sand before glue up. Using a high build automotive 2k primer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3I2E8E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) really leveled out any variation in the base prior to paint with the use of a gray 3m fine abrasive pad.
Good luck..
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213438)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213437)
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Ok, we finally cut the initial run of these ( 8 pairs remaining as I type this). We'll cut more if there is interest. These came out really nice.. Rabbets for all outer panel joints, dados for internal bracing/divider and a full rabbet around the top for the included grill frame. Driver mounting screw pilot holes pre-drilled, .5" vertical roundover on front baffle edges and a nice radius on rear side of woofer cutout.A .125" pilot hole is pre-drilled in the grill frame for easy istallation of a small cabinet knob if desired.
Baffles with waveguides and backside operations take considerable time to cut, they are cut from solid 1.5" MDF , same material as our sub kits use. Not your typical box store MDF
Remaining outer panels are .75" Medex and internal bracing/dividers and grill frame are .5" Medex.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212433)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212434)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212456)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212457)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212458)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=212459)
Boxes were ordered this am so no final shipping weight yet.
Price is $369/pair + shjipping.
These will be sold in order I receive emails captainhemo@shaw.ca.
NOTE, you need to email me at the above address to confirm a pair
jay :beer:
For clarification.
When I place my order for the studio speakers with Danny will this kit you machined will that be included? Or would I have to email you separately?
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For clarification.
When I place my order for the studio speakers with Danny will this kit you machined will that be included? Or would I have to email you separately?
You have to email Jay separately to order the flat pack, and when you order the main kit you have to tell Danny you're getting one of Jay's flat pack, so you don't get an extra set of front baffles.
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Is there a recommended order to put the parts together. Someone said leave the back to last to install no-rez.
Should I seal the inside with white shellac also.
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I plan to do it the same way SonicJoy did his build, with all the panels attached, except for one of the side panels.
You don't need to coat the insides unless they're going to be in a humid environment. It wont hurt anything if you do tho.
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For clarification.
When I place my order for the studio speakers with Danny will this kit you machined will that be included? Or would I have to email you separately?
Yes, as stated in that post you quoted, you need to email me... email address in the quoted post. However, this initial run of 10 are long gone, we've started a list of people for reserving a pair from next run.
I'd personally glue them up all at once and install the no-rez through the woofer cutout as I've done in numerous pairs of XLS Encores.
If you guys hang on, Peter is going to be dooing a video of the assembly of these cabinets to give you guys an idea of a method of gluing them up
jay
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I plan to do it the same way SonicJoy did his build, with all the panels attached, except for one of the side panels.
You don't need to coat the insides unless they're going to be in a humid environment. It wont hurt anything if you do tho.
Just a heads up... if you are going to do that, be sure to have the unglued panel in place when you clamp up the rest of it... if you don't you may not get the dividers and brace to line up perfectly when you go to glue in the last panel.
jay
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Ye, I watched Peter's video on the dual OB sub towers and he did the same with the top surface. And that's going to be my plan for how I attach them, it might be easier to just flue them up all at once once I get the veneering done.
I ordered a couple sheets of quilted maple veneer, along with some deep red dye/stain and glue so I'll be doing some tests here pretty soon before i figure out how I want to best do this and get the look I want.
I think once the veneer is done and the front panel is painted, I want to coat the whole cabinet in a clear guitar laquer to maintain the theme surrounding the design.
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I glued up first cabinet tonight. After puzzling over it for a while, I worked out a system to get it comfortably done in one go. This kit is really well thought out and deadly accurate. Assembled this way it makes for a highly integrated and strong structure.
It's clamp intensive as you can see. It will raise your woodworking game!
I think for video, I'll dry run it on camera, then take apart and final wet assemble, which I would absolutely recommend.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213477)
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Wait... Is that 12 clamps??? :o
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I know the price did go up a bit due to the introduction of the Copper bypass cap, but since the kit normally includes the front baffle, it might be a little cheaper for those that order a flatpack?
That said, I don't know off hand since i wont be ordering the kit till probably October or November once I figure out my plan for staining & sealing the veneer with some practice panels..
Current plan is a candy-red stained quilted maple, but I may go back to my original plan of a dark stained walnut if i can't get the red to look the way I want.
So without the front baffle from Danny the kit price will go down to 895?
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who that's buying a flat pack has 12 clamps though? :duh:
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I've got 12 clamps but I don't have a table saw or sophisticated enough wood tools to do a lot of the woodworking. I sure can't do it as nice as the CNC cut flat packs! I'm not sure that 12 (!) clamps would be essential though. (?)
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I was thinking of adding some additional internal bracing. I would use 3/4 “ Oak dowels running from the bottom to existing brace and the top to existing brace and glued to the sides.
The only down sides I can see is it would reduce the internal volume a little, but would it be enough to matter? It would make it hard to install the X-over but as I always do external x-over not a problem.
So would the bracing be helpful or a waste of time?
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I don't think it will add anything to the strength, just take up the airspace.
In Tyson's original review, he mentioned that the box was incredibly inert, & I think a lot of that is due go the slope, adding to the strength over a larger space than just along the top, and the other brace handles the rest of the frame.
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Has anyone built a pair of these bi-amped with an external active crossover?
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I'm not aware of anyone that has, but I imagine its definitely possible.
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Has anyone built a pair of these bi-amped with an external active crossover?
Danny prefers passive crossovers in his designs.
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Wait... Is that 12 clamps??? :o
Heck he didn't even use all of them! :D
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Anybody know if Danny works on the weekends? I just called and got his voicemail. Danny has a life and should spent time with his family. I don't want to call back again in two hours and interrupt.
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Danny has a lot going on right now, but if you leave a message or send an e-mail he will get back to you.
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Here's a link to assembly video.
https://youtu.be/CYrdScf9eyM
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Here's a link to assembly video.
https://youtu.be/CYrdScf9eyM
'Nother great video, Peter! :thumb:
I do have a question about veneer tho, should I wait to apply it after the box is assembled and flush trimmed with the router?
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'Nother great video, Peter! :thumb:
I do have a question about veneer tho, should I wait to apply it after the box is assembled and flush trimmed with the router?
I've given that some thought and I think there's at least a couple of possibilities. If you don't mind the +/-.025" edge of veneer standing proud on side of cabinet, veneer after flush trimming would work fine.
Another possibility would be to skinny up internal components by double the veneer+glue thickness and apply veneer prior to assembly. This would also require taking veneer+glue thickness off each inside edge of baffle side rabbets. and I think you'd want to mask off veneer to protect from glue goobers too. The back would be veneered after assembly. There would be another puzzle where sides meet baffle if you intend to veneer top edges and round over top edge to match vertical edges of baffle.
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Here's a link to assembly video.
https://youtu.be/CYrdScf9eyM
Nicely done Peter. I like how you left the mistake with the miters in the video. I myself never make any mistakes :roll:. My favorite saying when it comes to woodworking is "It ain't broke until you can't fix it"
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Here's a link to assembly video.
https://youtu.be/CYrdScf9eyM
Thanks Peter, awsome job again :thumb:
An alternative to Mike's suggestion of putting a screw in the grill frame would be to just glue the magnet rigt in the frame ( I'd open the hole up to .25" and use a .25x.25" N52 cylinder magnet). Then the cloth will be smooth right over the top of it and anytime you need to remove , just "grab" with anything metal ( well most things), no need to find a magnet each time.
jay
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Nicely done Peter. I like how you left the mistake with the miters in the video. I myself never make any mistakes :roll:. My favorite saying when it comes to woodworking is "It ain't broke until you can't fix it"
That's why when I did my initial test fitting, I put the long slope in upside down and backwards before i realized the back panel and shelf didnt fit right. So I wrote on the bottom side of those pieces to remind myself the orientation. lol
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Since this forum is very active and most of you have ordered the NX Studios I just want to confirm that all the bells and whistles are included on the purchase correct? I don't need to ask for the upgrades?
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The only thing that could be upgraded would be the resisters, inductors and caps in the x-over. Danny offer upgraded copper caps, the others you'd have to source else where.
I went with Dannys' copper caps and Alpha core resisters and foil inductors for my upgrades. Same upgrades I did on mySuper7s and they made a nice improvement.
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You can also get the Gortz Foil inductors from Danny and IMHO ( did multiple back and forths with Jantzen wax/paper foils) are just as good as the Jantzens but far, far less expensive.
jay
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Do you have nx studio flatpack in stock ? Thanks !
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Doing another run soon.
Email me at the address at the bottom of 1st post in this thread if you'd like to reserve a pair.
jay
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Hey sorry if this is the wrong thread to ask this. Does anyone use these for studio work for mixing and or monitoring? Any musicians or producers out there using these? Would love some thoughts on their performance!
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Hey sorry if this is the wrong thread to ask this. Does anyone use these for studio work for mixing and or monitoring? Any musicians or producers out there using these? Would love some thoughts on their performance!
Have not used them for that purpose but I doubt there is anything in the world that can best them. They are so resolving and coherent in the near field.
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Not that I know off hand, but studio use is what they're designed for,
With the OB tweeter allowing for a spacious sound without having to worry about having the space required for a full OB setup.
Then with the quality of the internal components, even at the base level, I'd imagine they're impossible to beat in terms of clarity and detail.
Most studios will use a combination of monitors to estimate the final results on different setups. (tho that's more the job of mixing/mastering than recording/monitoring) but having something so revealing and detailed should allow for a better product down the line, (depending on the genre and severe dynamic compression that is so prevalent these days)
I'm excited to hopefully get mine built by the end of the year.
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Just received the NX Studio flat pack from Jay, it is a thing of beauty! I am a high end painting contractor in Charlotte NC and I paint cabinets for cabinet builders. I showed one of them this flat pack and they said they didn’t know how Jay does it at that price! Besides being quality it is a huge time saver for those who don’t have a shop or the skills to do this. Just glue and go! Incredible value especially with Danny’s kit to go along with it, can you imagine what a mainstream speaker company would have to sell these speakers for?!?! Thanks Jay, awesome, can’t wait to hear them!
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Good deal. Enjoy your build.
charles
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Just received the NX Studio flat pack from Jay, it is a thing of beauty! I am a high end painting contractor in Charlotte NC and I paint cabinets for cabinet builders. I showed one of them this flat pack and they said they didn’t know how Jay does it at that price! Besides being quality it is a huge time saver for those who don’t have a shop or the skills to do this. Just glue and go! Incredible value especially with Danny’s kit to go along with it, can you imagine what a mainstream speaker company would have to sell these speakers for?!?! Thanks Jay, awesome, can’t wait to hear them!
Please post photos of your finished cabinets when you get there - given your profession I'm assuming they're going to look amazing!
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Just received the NX Studio flat pack from Jay, it is a thing of beauty! I am a high end painting contractor in Charlotte NC and I paint cabinets for cabinet builders. I showed one of them this flat pack and they said they didn’t know how Jay does it at that price! Besides being quality it is a huge time saver for those who don’t have a shop or the skills to do this. Just glue and go! Incredible value especially with Danny’s kit to go along with it, can you imagine what a mainstream speaker company would have to sell these speakers for?!?! Thanks Jay, awesome, can’t wait to hear them!
Appreciate the feedback :beer:
For you guys waiting, thanks for being patient, more of the Studio Monitor kits are on the way soon.
We're actually gaining ground on getting caught up on some long over due orders
jay
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Here's a little teaser for what these flat packs can be. I'm going to do a little write up & photos on how this project unfolded, but will be a day or two. Maybe this will keep the fire burning...
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214852)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214851)
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Here's a little teaser for what these flat packs can be. I'm going to do a little write up & photos on how this project unfolded, but will be a day or two. Maybe this will keep the fire burning...
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214852)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=214851)
Fantastic work, Peter! I really love the understated look with the flat/matte black.
I'm really curious how you created the texture to the sizes/front around the tweeter.
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Fantastic work, Peter! I really love the understated look with the flat/matte black.
I'm really curious how you created the texture to the sizes/front around the tweeter.
I agree. Impressive.
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:o
That is next level work. They look like professional studio monitors!
Well done!
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Killer as usual Peter.
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Killer as usual Peter.
+1
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That is a really cool look! Very interested to see the write up.
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Killer as usual Peter.
So good looking :o :o :o
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I keep imagining that screening on the front and sides as a veneer inlay.
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I’ve had 2 pairs of X-LS. Sold 1 pr and gave the other to my niece. 1 pr of X-CS. Sold. Kinda miss them.
I still have a pair of X-SLS and X-Omni as well as an X-Voce in storage because I’m in a smaller apartment than what I had a few years ago.
Currently running X-Statiks with a sealed servo sub in my living room and Super 7 in my main rig.
I would consider the studio monitors but really, I’m good. :thumb:
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I'm not quite sure what my plan will be for my XLS once my Studios are completed.. I may put the XLS in my father's bedroom, tho his bedroom receiver needs some TLC cuz it's easily 30 yrs old. It needs a good cleaning & probably have a couple small parts & some capacitors replaced. It has some connection and crackling issues that need attention, esp using the radio dial.
But I'll make sure they're put to good use one way or another tho.
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Hi, Captainhemo,
I would like to order one “NX Studio” flat pack. How do I place the order.
Thanks!
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Read the very first post of this thread. There's an email address near the bottom of that post.
I ordered my flat pack and it's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow.
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So, I just received my Studio Monitor Flat Packs yesterday. These are a very impressive set of parts. The packaging is awesome and I don't have any issues with how they arrived.
I have a pretty good idea of how I'm going to finish these, but don't want to spill the beans just yet. I also need to do a few trial things to decide exactly how I want the finishes. Suffice it to say that Paint, Duratex and actually some other finishes will be incorporated.
The top edge of the front baffle seems to be sharp, as opposed to rounded over, on my baffles. I assume many people are adding this round-over with a router, as many pictures I've seen here show it rounded.
I probably won't be able to get the electronics for these until tax return time, maybe February or so. I hope everything is available then.
These are (or may be) replacing my B&W 805 bookshelf speakers, which I've had for 20+ years and have served me well. I will probably move the B&W's to the rear to do surround duty (hehe, I said duty) and improve my surround system (considerably). I do like surround music and we watch a lot of movies, utilizing this same system.
I like my current speakers but have been thinking for a while that the tweeter could be improved on. It especially hit home when I noticed in my wife's car (2013 Chrysler Town & Country) that I'm hearing things with that stereo that I don't hear in my home system, especially with the uppermost highs. Her system also confirmed to me that I actually CAN hear the those uppermost highs. Lol. Granted it could be some of my other electronics causing the issue (I'm looking at you late model Denon receiver), so some other upgrades are on the horizon.
Very excited!
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You could check out the crossovers on the B&Ws and look for improvements there. Particularly any caps in the tweeter circuit.
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That's actually on my list. I had thought about doing that before I decided to purchase the NX - Studios! :thumb:
I actually started on my kit today. Mostly, I got everything unpacked. I decided to add a round-over to the top and bottom edges of the front baffle, so I got that done, using my seldom used router table. It took me an hour and a half to make some guides and set it up - it took less than 10 minutes to actually round those edges. But they look great and look like they came from (Jay's) factory that way. And I glued up the angled top to the short shelf piece (per Peter's video). I also primed/painted the interior surfaces just so they are sealed and not bare MDF. Done for today... probably done for the weekend.
I'm going to need to get some supplies for some of the finishes I want to use.
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That's actually on my list. I had thought about doing that before I decided to purchase the NX - Studios! :thumb:
I actually started on my kit today. Mostly, I got everything unpacked. I decided to add a round-over to the top and bottom edges of the front baffle, so I got that done, using my seldom used router table. It took me an hour and a half to make some guides and set it up - it took less than 10 minutes to actually round those edges. But they look great and look like they came from (Jay's) factory that way. And I glued up the angled top to the short shelf piece (per Peter's video). I also primed/painted the interior surfaces just so they are sealed and not bare MDF. Done for today... probably done for the weekend.
I'm going to need to get some supplies for some of the finishes I want to use.
I did the same round-overs, but only on the top edge but i appreciate that there's enough space for that option. Cuz it does look good esp once i sanded out some trouble spots from the router beinng set a little to high & digging into the face a little. tho a routing table would have definitely made the process a little easier.. lol
But im excited to see how your build turns out! :thumb:
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We've been busy shipping out kits from the 2nd run of these along with a lot of other kits. There are a few people who have not responded to emails so, we've got a couple kits sitting here boxed, ready to ship if anyone is wanting one. Still a few pairs left unboxed from run
#2 as well.....
And, we chose not to add that rouindover on the top feeling it was better to leave it up to you folks.... once it's there, it can't be taken away ....
jay
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I understand that everyone may not want the round-overs all around the front baffle - that wasn't meant as a criticism. If it wasn't for the finish I plan on doing I'm not sure I would have added it. I'll explain that later.
I'm really hoping to work on it this coming weekend. The next several weekend are pre-holiday, holiday and holiday. Family and travelling. Good things but won't give me an opportunity to work on my speakers.
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A few people backed out on orders or aren't replying to emails so, we have 3 pairs of these left from run 2. They are boxed and ready to ship if anyone is wanting a pair.
$379 and $65 shipping for the 50lb (21x21x11) box.
Email me at captainhemo at shaw.ca to confirm a pair.
jay
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Looks like these are gone.... still waiting on confirmation for one pair sold locally but....
Contact me if interested in pairs from a subsequent run
jay
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Here's some (I think) interesting stuff. I'm assembling and prepping these for wrapping. Not being keen on using tapping screws to mount tweeters and questioning if I can thread a #4 machine screw into MDF effectively, I used screw-in inserts. I'm jazzed about the way that worked out. Also made some magnetic grills for fronts. Cabinets are clear sealed in preparation for wrapping.
Before cabinet assembly:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=221480)
After assembly and sealing:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=221483)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=221482)
With and without grill:
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=221484)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=221485)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=221486)
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Can you elaborate on the wrapping?
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Lookin' good, Peter.
My Studio Monitors are coming along much slower than I had anticipated. Part of the reason is I'm working in my unheated garage (save for a kerosene heater) and until recently, had pretty cold temps.
I'm curious why most tweeters I've seen for these are mounted with the connectors at the top. Is that the only way the tweeter fits?
I like the threaded inserts, btw!
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Concerning wrapping. The same material cars are wrapped with. Some is patterned off the roll, some can be printed on...photos, graphics etc. These are heading to Florida as you see them. I'm don't know what end look will be. I left a baffle at local shop for them to experiment with. The waveguide being the main concern. As far as I know it's kinda uncharted water for speakers.
Digi, conceivably one could mount with connectors at bottom, but the entry point I chose for wiring would make for some pretty awkward hookups to tweeter, so this is the path of least resistance. I imagine wiring sprouting out of hole and going around tweeter to top.
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Peter,
I like the the screw-in insert with socket cap machine screw. Did you use EZ Knife threaded stainless inserts for hardwood?
Thank you for your detailed posts, I am taking notes as I await my flat pack for the Studio Monitors.
John :popcorn:
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Peter,
I like the the screw-in insert with socket cap machine screw. Did you use EZ Knife threaded stainless inserts for hardwood?
Thank you for your detailed posts, I am taking notes as I await my flat pack for the Studio Monitors.
John :popcorn:
These inserts:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90016A005/
The threads on inserts tend to hump up MDF as they displace material as they screw in. It's the nature of the beast. I hit humps with flat file and that's what you're seeing in first photo.
Next go I'm going to try these:
https://www.mcmaster.com/97191A130/
I intend to misuse by dabbing a little epoxy on them and gluing in place. Hopefully eliminating the humping. Hmmm, that sounds kinda weird...
These are screws and washers:
https://www.mcmaster.com/91864A081/
https://www.mcmaster.com/98029A024/
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I like the idea of the press-fit inserts in combination with epoxy.
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Peter, just curious if you're considering the same inserts and machine screws for the woofers as well.
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Peter, just curious if you're considering the same inserts and machine screws for the woofers as well.
Nope, but I guess one could. I have threaded MDF and then dropped on a bit of super glue to consolidate MDF. Not fill hole, but just soak wood fibers. This was for aesthetics because I wanted to use button head machine screw with socket heads.
My reasoning on the tweeter has to do with supplied tapping screws. Their threaded diameter is close to the slot width in tweeter frame, so it tends to jack frame when inserting. This way also makes it easier to insert screw after assembly without risk of stripping hole.
The last one I did, I posted here about modifying the mounting slots on tweeter, which borders on hackery, at least for me. This is a more elegant solution, which gives me a warm fuzzy.
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Lookin' good, Peter.
My Studio Monitors are coming along much slower than I had anticipated. Part of the reason is I'm working in my unheated garage (save for a kerosene heater) and until recently, had pretty cold temps.
I'm curious why most tweeters I've seen for these are mounted with the connectors at the top. Is that the only way the tweeter fits?
I like the threaded inserts, btw!
The tweeter will fit either way, I'm guessing most are installing it with terminals at the top so they can access them with an iron.
I had not intended that.... I had always imagined folks would leave enough slack in the tweeter leads that they could pull them up through the pass through after putting it where they want it, then dooing the soldering. After that, simply push the wiring back down into the cabint and secure the tweeter. I'd then dab a touch of silicon over the pass through hole to seal it up.....
The first few pairs of the next run will be going out very soon
jay
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Couple of questions for you guys:
1) Does Danny decrease the price of the Studio kit if the front baffle is no longer needed from his kit?
2) Does this pack have the recessed top so that the OB grill sits flush with the sides, front and back? Or does it sit above it?
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The grill frames sit inside the top of the cabinet.
I believe Danny did adjust the price of the kit
jay
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Ok, aside from 2 people not replying to emails, we've cleared out the queue / list on these. If we happened to have missed you somehow, please let us know
captainhemo at shaw.ca
Still a number of kits left from this run, pricing is the same as on page 1 1st post, $379 &$65 shipping
jay
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What is the dimension of the side panels? Looking to order some veneer and need to know how much to get.
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18"H x 16" wide is a safe number for each side panel..... the rear panel would be safe to go with 18" x 9"
jay
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Are people veneering the backs of these?
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I didn't, but you can do whatever you want. I just painted the backs black. I veneered the side panels before assembly. The back will have to be done after the boxes are put together.
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I veneered the backs of mine.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=222188& size=large)
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Nice Hobbs! How much longer before they are finished? Can't wait to see them and hear what you think.
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Well this cabinet still needs some touchups and a seal coat, then both need a few layers of clear lacquer. So ~90% done?
Then after that, Im still awaiting the kit from Danny, then I gotta order my own inductors & resistors and put it all together.
I'm excited to get this kit wrapped up, & hopefully soon!
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I didn't, but you can do whatever you want. I just painted the backs black. I veneered the side panels before assembly. The back will have to be done after the boxes are put together.
That's what I was initially planning as well. I was going to order some veneer from Home Depot. Seems to be rated pretty good. There would be enough left over to do the backs. As far as where the edges meet, what's the best way to give this a finished look, seeing as how the sides will be veneered before the back?
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That's what I was initially planning as well. I was going to order some veneer from Home Depot. Seems to be rated pretty good. There would be enough left over to do the backs. As far as where the edges meet, what's the best way to give this a finished look, seeing as how the sides will be veneered before the back?
When working with veneer, I always use a very sharp plane blade laid flat against the surface being trimmed up to. Cut the veneer needing trimming using a downward ( away from trimmed surface) stroke so not to splinter the edge of the veneer. Youi'll end up with a perfect trimmed edge.... just be sure to kep that plane blade flat against the surface being used as a "guide".
Other options would be a laminate trimmer fited witha down cutting flush trim bit and some thin masking tape / painters tape for the bearing to ride on.
There are also veneer trimmers that work very similar to the plane blade but I just prefer the bare blade.
I'd have a look here for veneer if not wanting a full sheet....
https://www.veneersupplies.com/
jay
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Dag. That's over double what Home Depot's charging once you figure shipping and taxes. I'm sure it's probably a bit better. Hmmm....
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When working with veneer, I always use a very sharp plane blade laid flat against the surface being trimmed up to. Cut the veneer needing trimming using a downward ( away from trimmed surface) stroke so not to splinter the edge of the veneer. Youi'll end up with a perfect trimmed edge.... just be sure to kep that plane blade flat against the surface being used as a "guide".
Other options would be a laminate trimmer fited witha down cutting flush trim bit and some thin masking tape / painters tape for the bearing to ride on.
There are also veneer trimmers that work very similar to the plane blade but I just prefer the bare blade.
I'd have a look here for veneer if not wanting a full sheet....
Great directions! Thanks.
https://www.veneersupplies.com/
jay
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Peter,
I took your advice and installed these press-fit inserts from McMaster-Carr. These are zinc-plated steel inserts, 4-40 thread size, were originally designed for soft metal.
Using a 7/32" drill bit, I drilled a 7/16" deep hole. Some epoxy and gentle coercion I got eight of these installed without a volcano.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=222404)
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Peter,
I took your advice and installed these press-fit inserts from McMaster-Carr. These are zinc-plated steel inserts, 4-40 thread size, were originally designed for soft metal.
Using a 7/32" drill bit, I drilled a 7/16" deep hole. Some epoxy and gentle coercion I got eight of these installed without a volcano.
That's cool. I have everything to do it but haven't yet. Seems like a solid idea, would you agree now that you've done it? Even though it's not exactly how they're intended to be used, I imagined with the helix and epoxy the withdrawal strength would be more than enough for the task at hand. Is that your impression now that it's behind you?
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Hello everyone. My name is Colin - I'm new here. I've been very slowly planning and working on my NX Studio build. I'm taking my time to do it right. I'm not in any hurry plus I have to wait for parts anyway.
I finally got around to gluing up the flat pack and thanks largely to Peter's video it came out nicely. As a side bonus I now own as many clamps as I'll probably ever need for the rest of my life. :icon_lol:
I plan on applying a walnut veneer around the sides and back and then I'll paint the baffle. That seems like a common approach. So, my question for you is how do you handle the transition from the baffle to the veneered sides? On my build the baffle is at best, flush with with the sides (without veneer), and at worst a hair below the level of the sides. I was thinking of maybe trying to apply some Bondo to bring out the width of the baffle so that it is flush with the veneer once it is applied. Has anyone tried anything like this or do you have a better solution? I've never even worked with Bondo before so I'm not sure if this is a good solution or if I'm just asking for trouble.
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Others here might have different thoughts, but I've used bondo under veneer with good results. However, there are real limitations to bondo as the all-purpose stuff doesn't have much structural integrity and the glass infused stuff is a PITA to sand. In your situation it would probably be fine and would be my first choice since it cures in just a few minutes, sands easily and readily accepts both paint and glue. In large quantities or over a large area I'd be worried about delamination of the bondo from the wood since they will react differently to thermal or humidity changes (as in, the wood will react but the bondo won't). You would then end up with some bubbling under the veneer. I've run into that issue with boat repairs where I got impatient and used too much bondo in place of epoxy.
Make sure to rough up the surface of the baffle before applying if it's not already rough.
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Use a table saw to cut shallow kerfs at the dividing line between the baffle and veneer. Gives a nice clean line. Only needs to be 1/16 inch deep. Maybe use a thin kerf blade. This is what I did on my NX Studio build.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=224186)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=224187)
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Also, if you want the sides to be flush with the edge of the baffle, a better way than bondo is to just sand it flush with a sander (not a belt sander). The saw kerf technique makes this unnecessary.
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Also, if you want the sides to be flush with the edge of the baffle, a better way than bondo is to just sand it flush with a sander (not a belt sander). The saw kerf technique makes this unnecessary.
This would be the simplest solution, and would probably look great.
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Oh, I like the idea of a shallow cut to create a nice line. I'll probably try that when I get to it. Thanks!
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Chenson,
Greetings.
Interesting that you asked that question about veneered sides and the front baffle. Yesterday, I finished veneering my Studios. Today, I routed the forward edge of the veneer as it meets up with the baffle. I used a router with a straight bit. The cutter diameter is 1/16". I cut a shallow groove, I believe this is called a furniture cut. Literally, I borrowed the idea in hopes that visually, it would minimize the veneer standing proud of the baffle. The look is okay and I am going with it.
As I think about your dilemma, I wonder if gluing a veneer edge banding along the flat portion of the front baffle and then routing with a 1/2" round over would accomplish the look you seek. Ultimately, you will to paint the baffle black. It does not really matter what kind of wood is used for raising the edge.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=224216)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=224214)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=224215)
The last picture is a magnified photo of the mahogany veneer proud of the baffle.
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Does it make sense to do the veneering and furniture cut along with whatever paint/process on the baffle before the assembly. I'm thinking of ordering the NX kit in the next few months and am gathering the info necessary to get them build with the least number of issues along the way. Thanks
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It may be a long shot but I gotta ask.
Is it possible to have the flat pack made in Baltic Birch plywood?
The wave guide would look really good in BB plywood.
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A little inspiration for those who are soon to receive parts to complete their NX Studios.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=225453)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=225454)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=225455)
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More gorgeous work, Peter! :thumb:
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Ohhh very nice, what kind of paint and process did you use for those? I like the sea foam interior, they going in a garage next to a boat? :D
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Those look fantastic! I want a pair like that but perhaps a different color. Can you do orange?
Then again I'm currently in no position to add speakers. Too many other things need to happen before I can even consider new speakers.
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As always, i'm envious of your chops Sir Peter!!
Cheers,
Don
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I should clarify. My work ended with raw sealed cabinets and grills shown earlier in this thread. They then went to Florida where the plan was to wrap. It's my understanding that the wrappers had some difficulty getting the material to stay put in waveguide so they painted the baffle and the rest is wrapped. Client sent me photos which I subsequently posted here.
I think he was inspired by the dramatic look of the "GR" pair, also earlier in this thread. I thought it was kinda fun to have an eye popping color that could be exposed as desired via the grill.
Party on Wayne!
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Well I finally got around to building my NX Studio kit. Bought the kit over a year ago before the flat packs were available and had a hard time getting help to cut and glue the cabinets. Eventually bought the flat packs here from Jay and had my buddy Robert glue them up for me and apply some Ebony veneer. The flat packs went together perfectly!
Was originally going to paint the baffle black like many others have done but liked the contrast of the bare mdf with the Ebony so I just applied several coats of minwax satin wipe-on poly. The wife said she really liked the look but I might paint them down the line, no rush. Fired them up early this morning and they sound pretty damn good out the gate.
Just wanted to say thanks to Sonicjoy and others who have provided valuable build threads to help me understand how to put the crossover together and little tidbits of info that really make a difference. Thanks to Danny and Hobbs for responding quickly to my questions too! This is my first speaker build and even the wife was like...”Wow! They actually work!” Thanks babe...
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=225726)
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They look amazing! The ebony veneer is especially nice too! :thumb:
Hope you get lots of enjoyment out of them for a long time to come!
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They look amazing! The ebony veneer is especially nice too! :thumb:
Hope you get lots of enjoyment out of them for a long time to come!
Thanks!
I got ahead of myself when putting the crossover inside the first cabinet and screwed the mid driver on without stuffing any polyfil but did do it on the second. Listened for a couple of hours and thought maybe the drivers needed more time on them as I felt things sounded a little tinny or even hollow. Took the driver off the first cabinet and put in the polyfil and everything sounded much better! So in case anybody was wondering the polyfil does work and makes a positive difference.
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Can we still order flat packs?
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Can we still order flat packs?
Best to contact Jay for availability. Contact info is in first post in this thread, but I'll repeat here. captainhemo@shaw.ca
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thanks!
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Can we still order flat packs?
Yes,, ordering info is on page 1, first post
jay
All these builds you folks are showing look great, love seeing the creativity that youi add to ouir packs :tub:
jay
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Hi all,
I am barely getting around to building the box for the Studios
What would be easier for a first timer adding veneer? assembling the box first or glue the veneer on the MDF flat packs first before assembling it?
Would 3 24inch clamps be enough to hold everything in place? (I have five smaller clamps)
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Hi all,
I am barely getting around to building the box for the Studios
What would be easier for a first timer adding veneer? assembling the box first or glue the veneer on the MDF flat packs first before assembling it?
Would 3 24inch clamps be enough to hold everything in place? (I have five smaller clamps)
Veneering is easiest once it is assembled. Sides first then rear.
When I built mine, I used four 24" clamps and two strap clamps.
It definitely uses a lot of clamps to ensure a solid assembly.
I believe Peter in his assembly video used 12 clamps?
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=213631&size=large)
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Has anybody veneered the baffle on the Studio’s? I’m sure it can be done, I think I’ve seen other NX speakers with them veneered actually. Probably not easy with that wave guide.
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Not the studios, but I've seen it done on an NX-Otica so it is possible, tho probably tedious. Esp since you can only sand inwards. Outwards would likely pull the veneer up.
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I've veneered the baffles of NX-Otica monitors but painted the waveguide black. This is also tedious and very difficult to get a clean transition between the veneer and paint.
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As I get ready to launch into No Rez and my NX Studio build, I ask if anybody has published measurements or cutout dimensions for No Rez that is tailored towards Jay's flat pack. (Mike Eastman and Sonicjoy published one photo each.) I am just a little apprehensive on this next step of the build. I want to do a neat and or near professional job....and then cover it up.
Attention to detail can sometimes get the best of me.
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If I ever get back to building them, when life settles back out :scratch: I'm installing the no-rez before I glue up the boxes, so I made patterns from cardboard and cut the no-rez.
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Question for Captainhemo & PeterJ,
Do you plan on producing Speaker grill frames for the NX Studio's, as a option for the guys, who have to deal with the WAF Factor?
Danny had mentioned to me, that grill cloth on speakers, is not so much of the obstacle that degrades speaker performance, it usually is the design of a grill frame that might cause diffraction / loss of performance of a given speaker.
I noticed a NX Studio Kit (Photos) that PeterJ fabricated that had speaker grills on the front of them. I was wondering what was his design consist of material, dimension wise as well as fasteners. Not sure if he used magnets or the plastic clip on fastners. If PeterJ is willing to share with us new NX Studio builders who are considering building grill frames, his imput would be welcomed.
Cheers
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The protruding woofer frame presents a problem. My solution is to stand the grill frame off baffle enough to clear said frame. I cut basic frame from 1/4" MDF but ended up laminating another 1/8" ply to stiffen it up. 1/4 x 1/4" Neo 52 magnets imbedded in baffle and glued into frame. Thin felt pads on "legs" of frame so as not to scratch baffle.
I attached cloth with staples in the groove you see on back. Outer dimensions were 7 5/8" x 16 1/4" with a 3/4" frame width. Sized to fit a rounded over top and square bottom. They will certainly interfere with tweeter dispersion and were intended as static protection only.
Client paid $200 additional for them, and if I'm honest I have difficulty seeing the value proposition. WAF has never been a concern for me, even when I had one, but your situation may be different.
You may want to reference my X-Otica thread for photos of a similar installation.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=139529.0
I quickly drew these so you can get a visual on what I'm talking about.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=226984)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=226986)
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Thanks PeterJ,
I like NX Studio Speaker grill design, so you would charge $200 for the NX Studio grills, or the Ottica grills to be made? In case I decide to utilize your services.
Thanks again for the information. Very helpful as a newcomber.
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Thanks PeterJ,
I like NX Studio Speaker grill design, so you would charge $200 for the NX Studio grills, or the Ottica grills to be made? In case I decide to utilize your services.
Thanks again for the information. Very helpful as a newcomber.
I provided a drawing and info assuming you wanted to do this yourself or possibly benefit others doing the same. It you'd like me to quote something for you, please contact me via PM or better yet carbidewing@gmail.com.
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Greetings all,
I'm new to posting on this forum. But, I have been reading the adventures of DYI speaker building here for some time. I am in possession of a beautifully produced and shipped NX Studio flat-pac from Jay. (He is the winner of this year's customer service award, for sure. Pleasure to do business with him!) In my younger years I did both woodworking and DYI stereo electronics assembly. But, wood veneering and finishing to the levels I see posted here are going to be a challenge.
Thanks to Peter's EXCELLENT video tutorials, I have decided to follow his path regarding cabinet assembly and veneering. The puzzle for me (and others) is that front baffle.
In a perfect world I would love to have the entire cabinet veneered, however, the complex geometry of veneering the tweeter waveguide is realistically a non-starter for me. So, Option 2 would be to paint the waveguide and veneer the rest of the baffle.
I think I would paint the waveguide first and then assemble the cabinet, followed by veneering all surfaces. The biggest issue, I see, with this approach would be cutting out the veneer around the circumference (top) of the waveguide. It would have to be done by hand - a very steady hand.
Any thoughts, comments, recommendations on my approach would be appreciated.
One finally note I'll throw in here, is a big well done to Danny Richie for his clear, concise, well-mannered videos without which I wouldn't be heading down this path at this point in my life. Thank you!
Frank M
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FRANK,
One suggestion, is to make a 1/4 thick wood template. I did a cad drawing, measuring the dimensions of the wave guide. Did a printed out, and applied the sheet onto a 1/4" thick piece of wood. Then cut the wood to the waveguide shape. I actually finished my wood waveguide template, so it would be as smooth and slick as possible. Since the wood guide assist the cutting blade, around the perimeter of your veneer.
I used a exacto knife for trimming around the veneer. Exert patience cutting out!
You want to keep the blade as close as possible to the vertical position alongside the wood template. This helps prevent the exacto blade from grabbing the wood guide.
As far as securing the wood waveguide template in place, you have a few options, either use double faced thin tape and apply it to the template. Attaching it to the exact area of the veneer you want to have cut out, or clamp the wood guide on top of the designated veneer area that is to be removed. This will prevent the template from shifting, while making your cut out. VERY IMPORTANT STEP! Otherwise things may start flying around your shop, along with a few choice words! :lol:
I had success with this method. Perhaps others may have additional suggestions.
Good Luck,
NX STUDIO DRUMMER
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FRANK,
One suggestion, is to make a 1/4 thick wood template. I did a cad drawing, measuring the dimensions of the wave guide. Did a printed out, and applied the sheet onto a 1/4" thick piece of wood. Then cut the wood to the waveguide shape. I actually finished my wood waveguide, so it would be smooth and as slick as possible. Since the wood guide assist the cutting blade, around the perimeter of your veneer.
I used a exacto knife for trimming around the veneer. Exert patience cutting out!
You want to keep the blade as close as possible to the vertical position alongside the wood template. This helps prevent the exacto blade from grabbing the wood guide.
I had success with this method. Perhaps others may have additional suggestions.
Good Luck,
NX STUDIO DRUMMER
That’s awesome, looking forward to seeing your pics!
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Hi folks.
Just a heads up that we are currently out of stock on these but are cutting another run soon.
I have started another list for people who want to reserve a pair, orders will go out in the order in which they are received.
Price remains at $379 US and $65 US shipping anywhere in US/Canada.
Also worth noting, there were a couple pairs that were supposed to go out last Friday, they did not as UPS did not show up.... lots of things cancelled right now due to smoke (fires) including some courier and mail services :(
Contact at captainhemo at shaw.ca
jay
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Hi folks.
Just a heads up that we are currently out of stock on these but are cutting another run soon.
I have started another list for people who want to reserve a pair, orders will go out in the order in which they are received.
Price remains at $379 US and $65 US shipping anywhere in US/Canada.
Also worth noting, there were a couple pairs that were supposed to go out last Friday, they did not as UPS did not show up.... lots of things cancelled right now due to smoke (fires) including some courier and mail services :(
Contact at captainhemo at shaw.ca
jay
Jay stay safe with those fires. We know how you feel here in Australia.
Do you have shipping costs to Melbourne or Sydney Australia?
Thanks
SC
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Luckily, we are not in any real danger this year aside from air quality.... we basically have fires on all sides of us so nomatter what winds we have, it's smoke :(
Have never shipped to AU, rates have always been too high.... I just quoted a pair of these to Russia and it was $430 USD :(
jay
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Luckily, we are not in any real danger this year aside from air quality.... we basically have fires on all sides of us so nomatter what winds we have, it's smoke :(
Have never shipped to AU, rates have always been too high.... I just quoted a pair of these to Russia and it was $430 USD :(
jay
Ouch! Better fire up my friends table saw. :) I thought it would be expensive.
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Here's a quad of Jay's NX Studio flat packs I'm assembling for two different people. I installed machine screw inserts which I mentioned earlier in this thread, although these differ from my original post about the worthwhile mod where I installed screw-in inserts. I believe fltguy did these same inserts after I mentioned they looked even better for the job. I like these better for what they'll be tasked to do.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=229817)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=229818)
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Nicely done :thumb: :thumb:
jay
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Here's a quad of Jay's NX Studio flat packs I'm assembling for two different people. I installed machine screw inserts which I mentioned earlier in this thread, although these differ from my original post about the worthwhile mod where I installed screw-in inserts. I believe fltguy did these same inserts after I mentioned they looked even better for the job. I like these better for what they'll be tasked to do.
Which screws / bolts did you go with?
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Lifted from earlier post:
Next go I'm going to try these:
https://www.mcmaster.com/97191A130/
I intend to misuse by dabbing a little epoxy on them and gluing in place. Hopefully eliminating the humping. Hmmm, that sounds kinda weird...
These are screws and washers:
https://www.mcmaster.com/91864A081/
https://www.mcmaster.com/98029A024/
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Peter,
I took your advice and installed these press-fit inserts from McMaster-Carr. These are zinc-plated steel inserts, 4-40 thread size, were originally designed for soft metal.
Using a 7/32" drill bit, I drilled a 7/16" deep hole. Some epoxy and gentle coercion I got eight of these installed without a volcano.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=222404)
And a bump to post I made reference too. After doing it myself, I do think it's a good way to go, and fairly easy with the pilots already there.
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Last week I sealed up my NX Studios. I affixed the woofer drivers with 8-32 press fit inserts with low head (low profile) cap screws with black oxide thin washers. A small amount of medium (blue) thread lock on each screw made me feel better too.
It's a simple and elegant solution for this application.
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=230013)
(https://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=230014)
My thanks to Peter for planting the seed for this idea. It worked out great.
Pilots? Why are you picking on them? Hmmm... :icon_lol:
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Last week I sealed up my NX Studios. I affixed the woofer drivers with 8-32 press fit inserts with low head (low profile) cap screws with black oxide thin washers. A small amount of medium (blue) thread lock on each screw made me feel better too.
It's a simple and elegant solution for this application.
My thanks to Peter for planting the seed for this idea. It worked out great.
Pilots? Why are you picking on them? Hmmm... :icon_lol:
Well, most pilots are pretty detail oriented folks, and the Loctite proves it!
Off topic, but what do you fly?
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For you folks waiting on these, we'll be be packing/shipping a number kits soon.
Getting the high quality 1.5" material has been spotty and when it does arrive, it is typically not the quantity we've ordered so having to pick and schoose what gets cut.
Anyway, shipping again soon
jay
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I might need these for my Super 7s as I may have overtightened some of the the driver screws. Looks tricky on the rounded back side.
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Hi im Brandur. I just the NX Studio kit. I got the mahogany front baffle‚ so now i will start building the cabinet's. This looks great very inspiring. Thank you for sharing.
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Lots of these kits in stock . We've worked through the list of back orders and believe we are caught up on these. If I've missed anyone, I apol0gize, please shoot me an email if this happens to be the case.
jay
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Jay, I sent you two emails hopefully you’ll receive the last one.
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Jay, I sent you two emails hopefully you’ll receive the last one.
I'm not sure as all I see here is your username.... I have replied to a number of inquieries in the past few days including one this amm
Prices at bottom of very first post in this thread are curent and there is an assembly video of the kit done by our collegue Peter here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYrdScf9eyM
jay
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Jay, we’re good. I got your response and you sent the flat packs on their way. Thanks!
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Jay, we’re good. I got your response and you sent the flat packs on their way. Thanks!
They went out yesterday :)
jay
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They went out yesterday :)
jay
The picture is great for this visual mind. It’s exactly as Jay suggested.
My thanks to all contributors for the corporate knowledge.