<moved from a different thread. The questions are from JLM>
Seems like the Solar 1's aught to play lower than the 60 Hz you specify since the driver itself is rated lower and the cabinet provides transmission line loading (which extends bass response). I know you don't want to get into futzing with specifications, but could you explain? I'd guess it should be good down to around 35 - 40 Hz (in room).
Good question. Glad you asked about this... Turns out that the first lesson in marketing is... don't be afraid to exaggerate.
The Jordan JX92S does NOT have a Fs of 47 Hz as published. It's more like 60 Hz. My transmission line design pulls down the bass to the low 50's. Bass response is essentially the same as most medium sized monitors.
However, the real key to the bass response is that it rolls off very smooth. A resistively damped transmission line does this naturally. The behavior of a ported box is entirely different, because bass notes roll off very quickly around the resonant frequency of the box. This rapid rolloff causes phase shifts and resonances that are audible and deteriorate the clear reproduction of sound. It also makes it harder to integrate a subwoofer.
Even though transmission lines sound so good, they are not popular because of their size and complex box. The Solar 1.0's are about 41" high, 7" wide, and 12" deep. This is to accomodate the length of line necessary to reinforce 60 Hz. To play to 20 Hz, a line would have to be almost 15' in length. It would sound great, but construction and shipping costs would be exhorbitant. It is far easier to make money building smaller bass reflex boxes, and people are happier with the small size. But sonic purists love TL's, and I think the Solar 1.0 is an excellent compromise between premium sound quality, and reasonable size and price.
I'm a SET/high efficiency speaker fan. Does the pairing of the Solar 1's with the new amp have the dynamic magic I love? Is that where you need a sub, to help with higher spl's in the 35 to 60 Hz range?
Oh yes indeed! I thought the Solar 1.0's sounded great on my 3.5 watt Tulip SET, and had decent dynamics. I know some people think this is crazy for an 88 dB efficient speaker, but there is no crossover which can rob a third of the sound energy. Also, the impedance load is very easy thanks to the TL. And finally, it doesn't even pretend to play low bass, where all the watts are needed anyway.
But to answer your question, when it's paired with my proto Solar Fusion amp (~120 watts), the dynamics are incredible! Especially the micro-dynamic details, such as fingers brushing on a guitar string, breaths of vocalists, and the reproduction of the acoustic ambience of live music halls. It's the incredible microdynamics and the lack any crossover induced phase shift that allow this speaker to cast an incredibly deep and detailed sound stage.
Macro-dynamics, such as cannon shots aren't so great obviously, but the smooth rolloff of the TL allow for a very clean integration with a subwoofer. It matches the Daeva very well. I am extremely happy with how the sound quality of both. And I also like the ability to turn up the bass on some music (R&B, reggae, etc). Incidently, if you want info on the Daeva, try this thread:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=4232 This is an important consideration for the concept of the product to be valid as a single driver, full range speaker. Below 35 - 40 Hz. a powered sub is best IMO to be able to taylor the response to the room and/or listener taste.
I strongly disagree that a single driver speaker should be able to play below 50-60Hz. There is just no way that a 4" driver can play any lower because it cannot move enough air. It's true that a larger driver can move enough air, but there is unavoidable distortion somewhere in the critical midrange region (~80 Hz to 8 khz). A really good 4" driver like the Jordan has totally flat response in this region. This is one reason why music from these drivers sounds so natural and clear.
The limitation of the 4" naturally is the bass, which can easily be fixed with a sub. You are correct that it easier to prevent room resonances if the sub is XO'd lower, and thus slightly easier to integrate. But it's not that tough to deal with provided there is some effort spent on good room treatment.
In short, speaker design is all about what tradeoffs are acceptable to produce full range, beautiful sound. I believe the Solar 1.0 makes the least deleterious and most fixable tradeoffs, and has the best and most enjoyable sound. Especially considering the low price under $1k. Add $400-600 for an awesome Adire sub that further increases music and HT flexibility.
