AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => The Lab => Topic started by: jonwb on 3 Sep 2005, 12:20 am
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In the Squeezebox mod thread there was mention of some cheap industrial 5VDC power supplies that would be an improvement from the stock wall-wart.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=20977.msg185694#185694&highlight=regulated#185694
I did some digging on the net and I've not had any luck finding one. Can one of you guys point me in the right direction?
Thanks,
Jon
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It was on cascade surplus.
5vdc supply (http://www.cascadesurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/99/products_id/856)
The supply is open frame, not in a box, so you should box it appropriately so that curious fingers don't get zapped.
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A person could build a decent 5V linear supply without too much trouble...and very cheap.
If you want to buy something how 'bout this?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=320-216
That, plus an el-cheapo AC wallwart and you should be all set.
Cheers,
Davey.
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You would still need a case to put the parts express one in. The Regulator will need a heatsink .
The one I build has a regulator rated at 1.5 A and I use a fairly heavy duty heatsjnk. The case does get rather warm.
You should also condier what power cable to use. If all you are looking for is a slight increase in performance from the SB2, any cable will do. If you want the best you can get, you will need to try out various geometries and materials to see what suits your system best.
You will also need to think about what type, gauge and geometry you will use to bring the 5VDC to the SB2. You will have to get a good 2.5mm power connector.
Good luck with construction and always remember, you get what you pay for :D
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The thing is, Davey, the Cascade one is $3.50. I figure it serves as a nice template for someone who doesn't want to build from scratch. They could always swap parts afterwards.
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Yeah, I here ya Josh. However, it's not clear (to me) by looking at the data sheet what type of regulation is used on that supply. I suspect it's just a zener-regulator with pass transistor. A LM317-based unit would yield lower noise and output impedance. And the Power-One unit is rather bulky and ugly. :)
Anyway, there would seem to be plenty of options for a relatively low-cost linear supply to use with the SB2.
"Good luck with construction and always rember, you get what you pay for."
No, you don't.....not in the audiophile world. :)
Cheers,
Davey.
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I have one of the cascade units and so I'll have a look and see if I can't see what regulator they use. It is ugly, but I was going to put in a small box as it isn't very big.
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I have one of the cascade units and so I'll have a look and see if I can't see what regulator they use. It is ugly, but I was going to put in a small box as it isn't very big.
Thanks for the link on the Cascade unit Josh. Could you tell me what the dimensions are for that unit? Also, pics would be great since the one they have on their site doesn't show much (what sort of connectors would one use?). BTW, have you tried this unit w/ a SB2? Did it offer an audible improvment over the stock wall-wart?
Good luck with construction and always remember, you get what you pay for :D
I generally agree Wayne and I'd love to get one of your power supplies. However, I had to do enough tooth pulling just to get the SB2, so another $175 for a power supply right now might spell the end of me :duel:
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Good luck with construction and always remember, you get what you pay for :D
No Wayne, sometimes you get far more than you're paying for. That's the whole point behind DIY.... the free sharing of experince and expertise.
FWIW
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Goto
http://www.hosfelt.com/
click on 'adapters' in the left scroll area
click on
'3-5VDC
Adapters' in upper left
4th one down -
5 VDC @ 1.5 AMP Regulated $US 6.95
Mfg. # - 7202C-3
5-13/16" x 2-1/2" x 2-7/8"
Input: 117 VAC, 60 Hz
Output: 5 VDC @ 1.5 amp. The enclosure and
cords are black. Regulated and filtered.
#56-534
Its a substantial table wart, dunno if the attached plug will fit or if wired correctly for the SB2.
I lent Josh mine, as I don't even have a SB.
FWIW
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where do you guys find these places?? Thanks OCCAM...
I took a look at their site and also came across another unit which costs a little more ($20), but takes a grounded IEC plug at the input and is "Fully regulated and filtered" (and 3amps for what that's worth in this application).
its the second one down on this page:
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_16.html
Sounds like it has a 4 wire din connector at the output. I'm thinking that'd be easy enough to rewire/replace.
Also, on the same page you originally referenced:
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_9.html
The first unit on the list is 2.4amps and "Regulated, Filtered and Grounded", but it still of the wall-wart configuration in that the block itself plugs into the wall. This is only $10, does the fact that its output is a little higher and that its grounded offer any advantages to the unit you originally mentioned?
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I took a look at their site and also came across another unit which costs a little more ($20), but takes a grounded IEC plug at the input and is "Fully regulated and filtered" (and 3amps for what that's worth in this application).
Its a switcher. This is not to say that a switcher is inherently worse than a linear, its just that this one probably is. Switchers are inherently regulated and filtered.
its the second one down on this page:
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_16.html
Its too small. You need a minimum of 1 amp.
Also, on the same page you originally referenced:
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_9.html
The first unit on the list is 2.4amps and "Regulated, Filtered and Grounded", but it still of the wall-wart configuration in that the block itself plugs into the wall. This is only $10, does the fact that its output is a little higher and that its grounded offer any advantages to the unit you originally mentioned?
Its probably a switcher, as its too puny for its 2.4A rating to be a linear. The reason is doesn't say its a switcher is that as its a wall wart, and its captive plug is for 120VAC so it ain't gonna run on 220-240 anyway. But maybe not, dunno. I've never liked wall warts, as they're a royal pain to plug into a strip, and I know they're laughing at me behind my back.......
Why don't you buy one of each and try them?
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Why don't you buy one of each and try them?
kinda set myself up for that one huh? :)
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Well Jon - I guess you might have noticed I can be a bit 'prickly', and some might consider 'right wanker' as a charitable description. But the whole point behind the Lab forum is to learn, and hopefully, your questions and my responses were informative. And indeed, it might well be that the last 2.4A wall wart is actually an ideal, linear regulating solution. Dunno.
Given my way over the top reaction to some pretty innocuous comments yesterday, I was sufficiently contrite to delete my comment about no good deed going unpunished. I should conseder self medicating again.
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I should conseder self medicating again.
Well, hey that's probably better than self-dentistry :lol:
Regarding my earlier post, I think you were looking at the wrong power supply. The one I was referring you to was the second one down on this page:
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_16.html
Its a 3amp'er and 5-3/8" x 3-5/16" x 2-1/2" in size... is it likely to be a linear supply?
$20 is still pretty reasonable if it looks promising.
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.... I think you were looking at the wrong power supply. The one I was referring you to was the second one down on this page:
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_16.html
Its a 3amp'er and 5-3/8" x 3-5/16" x 2-1/2" in size... is it likely to be a linear supply?
$20 is still pretty reasonable if it looks promising.
Jon,
While I too, was impressed by how well hung that adapter is, the critical point in
5-3/8" x 3-5/16" x 2-1/2"
Input: 100-250 VAC, 47-63 Hz,
is the 100-250VAC.
if it were 120/240 it would indicate that it has a transformer whose primary can be switched from parallel to series, indicating, typically a linear supply. But the fact that it can cope with any AC voltage from 100-250V, clearly indicates its a switcher having no input transformer. Honest.
See, snarky, yet edumicational 8)
But to hedge your bets, I would encourage you to buy them all
EDIT- the fact that the exact same adapter is found under the listing for switchers (5th one down), confirms what I said above -
http://www.hosfelt.com/index.html?target=dept_223.html&lang=en-us
Regardless, when you first mentioned this adapter, I should have explained WHY I reasoned it was a switcher, rather that toss off 'its a switcher'. A major purpose of this forum is to share information, not facts, and your follow up questions were a direct result of my failure to do that.
Sorry 'bout that.
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if it were 120/240 it would indicate that it has a transformer whose primary can be switched from parallel to series, indicating, typically a linear supply. But the fact that it can cope with any AC voltage from 100-250V, clearly indicates its a switcher having no input transformer. Honest.
See, snarky, yet edumicational 8)
Ah, I get it! I didn't understand that when they give a big input voltage range like that, its a clue that its a switcher. :idea:
Well, I've bugged you enough about this. I just placed my order for the unit you initally mentioned. I'll let you know how it works... thanks for the help.
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Still waiting for my new power supply to arrive....
I did some more digging on the Slim Devices forums and ran across this thread (http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=14589) (its long) regarding the merits of upgrading the switching power supply that comes w/ the SB2. In particular the last post on page 1, the gentleman acutally has screen dumps of the voltage waveform at various points inside and outside (the factory supply) the unit.
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How did things work out with the supply you ordered? Was it the Hosfelt7202c-3? Correct connector for the SB@?
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How did things work out with the supply you ordered? Was it the Hosfelt7202c-3? Correct connector for the SB@?
Sorry I haven't updated this lately. I've been busy w/ my amps (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=21635). I did order the supply that Occam recommended. It was Hosfelt P/N: 56-534 (same one you referenced). It took about a week to arrive. Shipped price was $14.38. It is a fairly hefty unit. I'll take some photos and post them later. The connector is not the same as what the SB2 uses. I'm going to steal a correct sized connector off an old wallwart that I had laying around. I'll also do some side-by-side comparisons w/ the stock power supply and see if I can hear a difference.
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Here's a possibility. It's 5v 1.5a linear regulated. $17.50
The supplied plug fits the squeezebox2 and center is positive. Plug and play. Not much fun but so easy.
http://electronicsurplus.com/commerce/ccp78437-5vdc-40-1-5a-wall--power-supply-with-a-5---2conduc-wm075-1950-760-139895.htm
I got one of these about a week ago. It improved the sound top to bottom compared to the stock supply. No switching back and forth to be sure. I was sure the moment I played music. I'm using the analog outs and haven't tried a dac since I got this power supply.
This supply can't be optimal. Inside I found only a transformer, two diodes, regulator, and two caps. If some of you smart guys try this cheap easy supply you might be motivated to design a good diy we can all enjoy. I'm definitely not the guy, sorry to say.
Regards,
Music Machine
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Well here's a picture of the unit I purchased:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/Hosfelt-Power-Supply/DSCN0784.sized.jpg)
Yesterday I finally got around to soldering on the plug from an old wallwart I didn't need anymore. Not pretty, I ought to redo it later. The unit itself is surprisingly heavy (no wonder it cost so much to ship). Both the cords in and out of the 'box' use fairly heavy gauge wiring.
So I was listening to my system last night, pleased with the improved sounds from my amp mods, when I remembered that I had the new SB2 power supply to try out. Since I thought things were sounding pretty good I frankly wasn't all that optimisitc that I'd notice a decernable difference. Well I was wrong... it took about 2 seconds to notice the improvement. The highs were noticably cleaner sounding... bass tighter, remarkably better actually. Far exceeded my expectations. Of course my expectations were probably low because the thing only cost me $15.
I haven't taken it apart, so I have no idea if there are parts to tweak inside the brick. Tomorrow I'm sending my SB2 off to Wayne (Bolder Cable) to get it modded. I'm also sending him my new power supply, I'm curious to hear what he thinks.
Thanks again for the tip Paul... I think this power supply is a no-brainer for someone who has an SB2 and can't swing the cost of Vinnie or Wayne's power solutions (maybe a stop-gap). Any tips on where one could purchase a 5.5mm power plug might be helpful.
Jon
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Jon,
You're quite welcome. Given some of the comments of today, the 'props' are greatly appreciated. :?
If that 2 pronged wall plug is unpolarized, you might try reversing it to see if you get any positive or negative subjective changes and note your preferred orientation.
I was familiar with the ps when I reccomended it. Josh has my unit (I don't even own a SB2) and his plate is quite full, to say the least. Good luck to anyone trying to open the unit. Its bolts are at the bottom of a 2 1/2" deep, 3/16" diam hole and the bolts have no slots. You'd probably need a specific, very thin bolt driver to get at them.
Glad it worked for you,
Paul
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Yeah, I am guilty of taking Paul's supply and not giving it the demo it deserves. My plate has become the table and the plate was long lost under the contents.
If you are looking for the little DC plugs, switchcraft has/makes them and many of the online electronics seller have them (try markertek, partsexpress, switchcraft themselves, mouser, et al). Wayne pointed that out to me a long time ago when I was looking for a DC plug. Can't remember where I ended up getting one....oh wait I think RS. Anyway, not hard to come by.
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any idea if the 1.5a is enough for the wireless sb2 while running both analog and digital output? I thought the stock sb2 power supply was 2a.
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Yeah, it should be fine. The SB2 draws about 750mA. The non-wireless version probably a little less, but I'm not sure.
Cheers,
Davey.
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A quick comment on the Hostflet linear table wart ps for the SB2. Jonwb's quote of $15 for the upgrade powersupply was the all in cost, including the cost of the ps, $1 per order handling charge, and the actual shipping.
If anyone in NYC is ordering that ps, I've a specific transformer that should provide the power conditioning fuctionality of Felicia. That added facility should cost about $15-20 for the transformer, caps, fuses, and housing. I don't have a SB2, so I'd like to test it locally prior to release on a Lab thread.
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OK, I got the thing apart.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/Hosfelt-Power-Supply/100_4264.jpg)
It took a really small 1/4" drive deep-well 4mm socket (Craftsman #44401); then there are two snaps on the sides of the case halves that hold it together that have to be popped apart. You can see it in one of the pictures I put Here (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/modules.php?set_albumName=Hosfelt-Power-Supply&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php) . I'll defer suggestions on what to replace to you experts.
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Dang Jon,
I'm impressed that you got that sucker open. Then again, my favorite tool is a butter knife.
I'm quite impressed by the internals. Thats a lovely split bobbin EI core transformer, the MJE305 on that big honking extrusion heat sink is a series pass transitor. What is that TI? dip ic marked? I'd think its controlling that pass transitor and its specifics would tell alot. The transformer alone, in small quanties costs more than the Hosfelt price for the whole ps.
TIA,
Paul
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Dang Jon,
I'm impressed that you got that sucker open. Then again, my favorite tool is a butter knife.
Remember where I said I'm a mechanical engineer? Taking stuff apart is my speciality :lol:
Now, what to make of the internals... that I leave for you guys to explain.
What is that TI? dip ic marked? I'd think its controlling that pass transitor and its specifics would tell alot.
Sorry I didn't get a better picture of that IC. I'd check, but the unit is currently in the custody of UPS (until Wednesday). Perhaps Wayne can report back once he recieves the unit.
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Jon - Not a problem. From the pic I assume its a TI ua723 adjustable precision regulator driving the MJE305 NPN external pass transistor. The schematic will look very similar to -
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/slvs057d/slvs057d.pdf
page 7, figure 4.
But thats just an edumicated guess.
All in all, a competent, straightforward, well implemented, but 'long in the tooth' powersupply.
It might benefit with capacitive bypassing of the bottom leg of the voltage setting resistive divider, if it doesn't already exist. Similarly, upgrading the filtering caps, putting bespoke rectifiers... might provide a modicum of improvement. I'd think resources would be better spent 'Feliciacizing' it. We all have our own agendas.
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As I need to replace the tip with the sb2 required one, and I don't have a meter, could you tell me which side of the cord is + on the DC cord side?
Is there any markings on the cable itself for the + side?
Is it on the left, assuming you are looking back at the transformer from the dc end connector.
Also, is it better to have as short a cable length on the dc side as possible or is it ok to run 5-6 feet long on the dc side?
Thanks
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Hi thee down to your local RatShaque. Bring your SB2. Find the DC power plug that fits. They don't like you opening their blister packs, but they will let you do so. If they don't, buy a couple, open them, try the fit, and return the opened ones....
Buy a inexpensive multimeter from RS or Hosfelt. Measure your SB2 switching supply plug to find which is positive, the center or the outside. Circumcise you Hosfelt ps output cord and measure which wire is which and mark it with tape. Connect the plug appropriately.
Never, ever assume that whoever assembled the ps consistently physically oriented the cable, especially when the plug was already attached and it didn't make a difference.
Measure twice, cut/connect once!
With regards to output cable length - the shorter the better with regards to voltage regulation and noise, but this must be balanced against the fact that the minimal noise passing EI split bobbin transformer emits a greater magnetic field than an otherwise pos toroid. A foot should be fine, but its not enough of an issue that you should alienate your SO over it, or compromise your aesthetic sensibilities. Make it long enough so that it can be positioned so that it isn't obtrusive.
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i just received my SB2 but haven't opened it yet. i want to build a linear power supply and i come up with this very simple design based on ON Semi Regulator handbook. Please give your comment or suggestion, i haven't assembled it yet but i already have the regulator and caps, still need to get a transformer.
here's the schematic:
(http://www.av123forum.com/photopost/data/500/9195V_regulator.jpg)
thanks,
angelo
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I presume y'all are die-hard DIY'ers, but still might want to START with the off-the-shelf Elpac 1.5A linear supply, as discussed in this thread...
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=16245
Perhaps it could be modded with even higher quality components.
I've been using the Elpac with my SB2 for a few days now... so far so good. This weekend I'll conduct some extended listening comparisons with the standard wall-wart.
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i found a much better regulator for this application using LM350 http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM150.pdf
it's prolly easy enough to build an all-purpose adjustable power supply using this regulator, the one that i have is in TO-3 packaging so i have to find the right heatsink for it, i didn't know before that the whole metal case of this packaging is the output :o
so disregard the previous schematic.
angelo
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I presume y'all are die-hard DIY'ers, but still might want to START with the off-the-shelf Elpac 1.5A linear supply, as discussed in this thread...
http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=16245
Perhaps it could be modded with even higher quality components.
I've been using the Elpac with my SB2 for a few days now... so far so good. This weekend I'll conduct some extended listening comparisons with the standard wall-wart.
i'm still a newbie.
the 1st schematic that i posted can't provide enough current for the SB2, sorry for posting it. i'm building the Linear PS because i already have the components, i'm sure it'll cost a lot more than the Elpac if i have to buy each parts. The LM350-steel regulator cost ~$6 a piece.
the Elpac PS looks nice, i might buy one just for the hell of trying it.
angelo
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Just wanted to say that the power one supply mentioned at the start of this thread has been marked down to $2.50.
http://www.cascadesurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/99/products_id/856
I bought five of these for my SB2 and future projects. It seems to be very well made. We used to use power one supplies of various voltage/power ratings in the lab where I used to work as an engineering tech. They're built like tanks and always seem to put out good clean power.
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I say go for it Angelo! Sometimes it isn't the result that drives us, it is the journey. You seem to have the diy bug bad like me. :lol:
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I received my Hosfelt transformer today. It's the same one jonwb purchased. I spent some time this evening listening to brass choir (highs), Blue Man Group (bass), and Bach organ fugues (everything). My opinion is that the new brick has a positive improvement, but it is small. The highs are a little less shrill and the bass is a little tighter, but it was not an epiphany.
Here's how I look at it: the SB2 costs $293 (shipped) and the transformer is $15 shipped. $15/$293 = 5.1%. I think the improvement is on par with 5%, and a 5% improvement is OK with me.
P.S. I was surprised when I saw that the logo of the original manufacturer of the brick had been removed. You can see it in jonwb's picture on the previous page in this thread. What looks like black electrical tape in the upper left corner is actually a depression where a rectangular portion of the exterior has been excised.
(A brief note on the buying experience: Hosfelt's website does not encrypt your name and address during the ordering process, only your credit card info. You do not select a shipping method, they pick either FedEx or USPS on your behalf. You don't see the final shipping charge on the online order form, you get it on your hardcopy receipt. The brandname is excised with an exacto knife. My point is that everything turned out OK in the end -- I got the product I wanted -- but if you are used to having a squeaky-clean online ordering experience, then this one may make you a little uncomfortable.)
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You might be surprised after it burns in for a couple weeks. I have the same one from hosfelt but haven't changed the plug yet. Also have the more expensive and probably worse elpac. The elpac gave an immediately noticeable improvement from top to bottom. The stock supply yields a confused sort of rough sound that went away with the linear supply. I didn't use to have an opinion about power supply burn-in. Something happened. It was good.
Regards
Music Machine
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Well, after trying the Elpac linear PSU in place of the standard switching PSU, I can honestly say the improvement is minimal (using the SB2 analog out).
However, I downloaded the latest Slimserver Beta, which incorporates pre-amp volume control to allow direct connection to an amp.
After connecting the SB2 analog out DIRECTLY to my Sunfire Cinema Grand 200 amp (feeding Martin-Logan Aerius i's), I now have absolutely INCREDIBLE LUSH CRYSTALLINE sound like I've rarely heard before. I had no idea my Yamaha RX-V1000 (as Pre/Pro) had such a deleterious effect on the signal path.
At least for me, the GREATEST upgrade path for improved audio from the SB2, was to simply bypass the pre-amp stage altogether! I'm sure some other mods might tweak the sound even more, but I'm thrilled with the improvement thus obtained. Now, I just need to figure out how I can still utilize my RX-V1000 for Home Theater DVD playback.
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Paul,
Any issues with running the dc portion of the power supply line with my amplifiers ac power cord?
I don't know if this increases noise or if it is not a problem, but I am trying to bundle all power lines away from interconnects and speaker wires.
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RME: you talking about running DC power in along side AC power in? Like inside a cord? => not a good idea. will cause excessive noise. You have to seperate and shield the DC lines from the AC lines, otherwise noise on the AC line will couple to the DC.
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RME: you talking about running DC power in along side AC power in? Like inside a cord? => not a good idea. will cause excessive noise. You have to seperate and shield the DC lines from the AC lines, otherwise noise on the AC line will couple to the DC.
I was planning on just using a wrap or zip ties to hold the dc power cord along with (not inside) the ac cord so that they aren't hanging all over the place. The ac cord will be shielded however.
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Well, I'm back from a week in Aruba celebrating my 30th anniversary (seems far longer :? ) with SWMBO ..... So I've caught up with the posts and will make a few comments
RME - Josh is offering you excellent advice. While a shielded powercord does offer some defense against RFI (radio frequency interference), it does little to stop EMI (the magnetic field produced by the ac cord which induces hum in other wires in close proximity). Please space the wires as far apart as is feasable as Josh suggests.
I've traced the circuity on the PowerOne ps from Cascade, and its pretty much the same as the Hosfelt supply. It uses the same TI 723 chip and topology. Its larger pass transistor and transformer may offer some benefits, but its flexibility IMO, the voltage adjustment and over voltage and current protection, isn't particularly germane. By no means do I mean to dissuade anyone from using it, but you'll have to house it, provide a grounded powercord (anything anyone builds MUST have a grounded powercord!) vs. the UL approved and housed Hosfelt supply, leaving the $2.50 vs $6.95 cost benefit of questionable merit.....
Would someone with the Hosfelt supply please, please try flipping the unpolarized AC plug and reporting any subjective differences? [it was I who originally suggested (I'm 'pmkap' on the Asylum) the Atari supply from Hosfelt for the DI/O and was amazed by the difference that the plug orientation made]
If someone has a Felicia or other powerconditioner and the Hosfelt supply, would you please report the effect of using a conditioner?
Thanks in advance,
Paul
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Welcome back Occam... I hope Aruba was nice!
Would someone with the Hosfelt supply please, please try flipping the unpolarized AC plug and reporting any subjective differences? [it was I who originally suggested (I'm 'pmkap' on the Asylum) the Atari supply from Hosfelt for the DI/O and was amazed by the difference that the plug orientation made]
I will try flipping the AC plug when I get my unit back from Wayne (SB2 mods). Probably will be sometime next week. Because of the new caps (including some teflon jobbers which require extensive break-in), I will really only be able to comment on the sound differences between the two orientations. Maybe someone else would be more help (sooner).
Jon
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As always, thanks everyone for your posting feedback on my questions, you all are quite helpful.
Paul, you mention to ground everything, however is there a way to replace the standard cord on the Hosfelt with a grounded one and a place to effectively ground from inside the Hosfelt box?
Hope Aruba was enjoyable.
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RME - There is really nothing to ground in the Hosfelt supplied powersupply. The metallic fixing bolts are substatially recessed (see Jonwb's post and link to his Gallery pictures) and the whole shebang is UL Class 2 certified (not requiring a grounded wall plug). If you want to replace the supplied non polarized 2 prong cord with a grounded shielded cord, you'd simply wire the hot and neutral wires to the same on the board and leave the ground and shield wires from the cord 'floating' by wrapping insulating tape around them. This would simply encase the cord with a 'Faraday cage', which maintains the ground at the plug end. As the supplied wall plug is not polarized, I'd simply note which plug orientation is subjectively prefferable (if any), and maintain that line and neutral orientation. [the narrow blade opening on the wall socket is 'hot' and the wider one is 'neutral']. As to whether changing the powercord would yeild any benefits, dunno .....
Regards,
Paul
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here are some pics of the ps that i'm building, w/o the transformer. i'm surprised RS don't carry transformers anymore :(
(http://www.av123forum.com/photopost/data/500/919sb2_ps_front.jpg)
(http://www.av123forum.com/photopost/data/500/919sb2_ps_back.jpg)
the wiring at the back is not well organized but it works, tested it using a bench supply to adjust the pot for 5V output. this is using an LM350 adjustable voltage regulator.
angelo
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Angelo - Very nice! Star ground and all. I assume that blue box is a cap bypassing the resistor to ground from the adj pin per fig 3 of the National pdf?
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very cool angelo, let us know how it works out.
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Angelo - Very nice! Star ground and all. I assume that blue box is a cap bypassing the resistor to ground from the adj pin per fig 3 of the National pdf?
thanks occam, the blue box is actually a pot, the schem. that i use is at page7 fig. DS009061-1 plus two protection diodes. Thanks for pointing out that extra bypass cap, i used an old National applications guide book and i just notice it is not as updated as the online datasheet. I can add that cap with no problem.
angelo
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Josh,
What kind of a turntable is that on your avatar?
Davey.
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http://auctions.planettest.com/java/jsp/doorway_partnoH-P6289A_invid8078.htm
This is not necessarily cheap although you can get similar items for good price now and then on e-Bay. I had one lying around that I was going to use for my turntable but I never got around to soldering a DIN connector. So I tried it on SB2 last night. After double checking the voltage with a multimeter to be 5V, I just snipped the SB2 switcher off and connected the bare wires to the output connectors. The change made the music discernably meatier with more bass oomph. All other things are stock and I run digital out to my DAC. It's really convinient that I can flip back and forth between SB2 and CD since they are on different inputs on my DAC. Now that I know it works, should I change out the "stock" power wire and connector going into SB2?
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Josh,
What kind of a turntable is that on your avatar?
Davey.
Its my homemade base + Teres kit. I need to finish the cosmetics but I need to finish a lot of things. Such is life. :roll:
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5 VDC @ 1.5 AMP Regulated $US 6.95
Mfg. # - 7202C-3
5-13/16" x 2-1/2" x 2-7/8"
Input: 117 VAC, 60 Hz
Output: 5 VDC @ 1.5 amp. The enclosure and
cords are black. Regulated and filtered.
With the Hosfelt supply, if soldering on a new connector, would it be more advantageous to shorten the lead from the power supply to the Squeezebox it powers, or should the power supply be kept far away from the Squeezebox (and, I would assume all other components), such as on the floor?
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Sorry for being too slow to finish this project :(
here's another update, i just got the transformer tonight, it has 3 outputs (8/16/24 volts), so i'm going to use the 8VAC to provide ~11VDC input to the regulator.
And I have a SCHURTER "power entry module" ;) with line filtering.
(http://www.av123forum.com/photopost/data/500/919trans_iec.jpg)
and here's my layout, i'm adding a steel plate to block the EMI from the transformer, i'm not so sure how efficient this thing is but it doesn't hurt to have one.
cutting the hole for the power connector is a real PITA, i'm sure josh has said this many times. Good thing it came out preety nice.
(http://www.av123forum.com/photopost/data/500/919case.jpg)
I still have to add a cap, some more wiring connections, maybe an LED, and an output connector.
angelo
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Woodsyi - Thats one heck of a macho powersupply! :o Very neat.
Eli - From page 4 of this thread -
With regards to output cable length - the shorter the better with regards to voltage regulation and noise, but this must be balanced against the fact that the minimal noise passing EI split bobbin transformer emits a greater magnetic field than an otherwise pos toroid. A foot should be fine, but its not enough of an issue that you should alienate your SO over it, or compromise your aesthetic sensibilities. Make it long enough so that it can be positioned so that it isn't obtrusive.
Once a thread becomes longer than a page or two, it becomes a royal pita to find info :?
Angelo - Very, Very Slick! Hurry up and finish so you can let us know what benefits your efforts yeild. :)
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Any updates? Angelo?
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Hello,
I am waiting for my Red Wine Audio modded SB2 and have opted for the full treatment inc battery power and Vinnie has agreed to provide the connections for the AC power option, although he is not going to provide the 12v switching supply as I want to build or source a linear alternative. I have found the following supply on Farnell:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=183817&N=401
is it any good?
and can it be modded ?
Brad
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I think that's a 12 volt output power supply, and the SB is 5 volts DC in.
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The Red Wine Audio mods include a 12 volt battery supply which also provides a 5v regulated supply for the DAC circuits. The power supply for the RWA upgraded SB2 needs to be 12 volts and 1.5amps.
Brad
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The Red Wine Audio mods include a 12 volt battery supply which also provides a 5v regulated supply for the DAC circuits. The power supply for the RWA upgraded SB2 needs to be 12 volts and 1.5amps.
Brad
Actually, the wall connected supply for the RWA Battery mods needs a 12 volt SLA battert charger, which is quite a different animal from a 12 powersupply.....
You asked Vinnie the question on his Circles''s thread -
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=22021
and Vinnie gave you the Farnell sku #3269760 of the UK equivalent 12v BATTERY charger, which you'd need if you bought Vinnies 'off the grid' (except for recharging) solution.
Edit - Brad - I may have misunderstood your question. If your query was about a 12v ps to run the RWA SB2 ps while the battery is recharging?, then that 12v PS. It appear to be roughly equialent in specs and size as the Condors, Power Ones, and International Power linear supplies, save for the fact that the P-P ripple seems a bit lower @3vppin the Advance Power supply, where the ones available Stateside have about 5vp-p ripple.
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Hi Paul,
I am looking at the 12 volt power supply to run the SB2 when recharging the battery supply. I am considering either sourcing a good quality ready built unit such as the Farnells one mentioned earlier or building a super regulator type from P-As project pages: http://home.swipnet.se/~w-50719/ I have been advised that the JSR 04 kit would work well at 1.5 amps with + side of the supply used.
I am kind of all DIYd out at the mo and trying not to take on too many projects so a simple solution would be best, as long as it is good valkuie for money..
Brad
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Sorry, I misunderstood your question. I don't see why that wouldn't be a good supply -- isn't it 4 amps output? The SB is only 1 amp. I'm not sure how Vinnie's apparatus works though -- is there a separate power supply to charge the battery? Or would you both be charging the battery and running the SB2 from your new power supply>
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Hi Bob,
There will be 2 supplies with the RWA modded SB2, one is an automatic SLA battery charger and the other one is there for when the battery is charging. The standard SB uses the 5v supply to make 12v internally the RWA mods remove some of this circuitry and usea 5v regulator for the lower voltage componets.
Brad
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Well, the power supply should work -- 1.8A output, about 1mV ripple for 12V output. To me, 1mV ripple isn't bad for 12V (that's about 0.008 percent). Now, whether it's modifiable or not, I don't know.
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I am going through my spare power supplies lying around at home, and I have some questions on the labelling:
1. How can I tell if a PS is linear or switching if the labels do not explicitly say so?
2. How do I know if a PS will work with the Squeebox2? And if the Volts or the Amps are higher am I going to burn the Sb2 out?
If there is a guide somewhere on how to read these labels I would appreciate a pointer.
Also, I found this Power supply from my IPAQ 4150, the Volts and Amps are the same. Can someone tell me if the specs are good enough? And if it is a linear or switching supply?
http://www.pchub.com/uph/laptop/345-18595-2025/Delta-Electronics-Inc.-ADP-10SB-REV.DH-AC-Power-Adaptor-5V-12V.html
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Agentsmith,
The ps you linked to is a switching supply. If you click on the picture on the referenced url, from the larger picture, -
http://www.pchub.com/uph/catf/BigPicture.aspx?iid=18595&PhotPath=6324537043192187502_ADP-10SB%20REV.DH.jpg
you'll be able to see that the voltage range is specified as 100-240vac, which is indicative of a switching supply. Other than that, even without the specific labeling I'd assume it to be a switching supply given its size. Linear supplies are generally substantially larger that an equivalent switching supply, but that distinction is based on experience and familiarity.
When trying to determine as to whether a ps is switching or linear, the obvious 'giveaway' is the voltage range. If it is generally specified by a broad range like 100-240vac, it usally means it is a switching supply, as switching supplies tend to handle a large variance in supply voltage.
But in the case of wallwarts that have a specific wall plug, even if it is a switching supply, it may well only specify a single voltage, as its determined by that plug. Then you have to make a guess based upon size and va rating.
For 'table warts' with IEC inlets, that same specified broad range also indicates a switcher, as an IEC cord could deliver via the wall 100-120vac or 220-240vac.
But if the range is specified as 100-120 and 220-240vac, it could well be either a switcher or linear supply with an external or internal switch or jumpers to configure it for those specified ranges. Again size and experience helps.
In the case of raw supplies such as -
http://www.cascadesurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/99/products_id/856
you'll see that the voltage range is given as 'AC input: 100,120,220, 230 or 240 volt selectable'. Note that it is NOT specified as 100-240vac.
If you click on the picture, you can see that large black square which, with experience will tell you is a transformer and it a linear with primary voltage taps to accomodate the various voltages. A picture from the other side would make the identification of the transformer substantially easier.
Now here is a large caveat - With surplus sources, one shouldn't assume the vendor is anymore knowledgeable than you are -
http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HAR&Product_Code=TM01PWS4465&Category_Code=PWS
Now this is clearly identified as a switching supply, but (I believe) it is actually a linear regulated supply, given its size and it being much like the Hosfelt supply, no longer in stock, that I previously recommended. (Given the vaugaries of the description, I'd also assume that the output plug, or whole output cord would have to be replaced/reconfigured)
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hey occam,
can you tell me what ps to get if i have the red wine modded sb2.
i have the switch installed to switch between battery and wall wart.
thanks for the help.
hope to see you at phils.
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Agentsmith,
The ps you linked to is a switching supply. If you click on the picture on the referenced url, from the larger picture, -
http://www.pchub.com/uph/catf/BigPicture.aspx?iid=18595&PhotPath=6324537043192187502_ADP-10SB%20REV.DH.jpg
you'll be able to see that the voltage range is specified as 100-240vac, which is indicative of a switching supply. Other than that, even without the specific labeling I'd assume it to be a switching supply given its size. Linear supplies are generally substantially ...
Thanks for your very detailed and well considered explainations. being a non-engineer I will have to reread some of what you wrote to digest it.
One question though, if you look closely, there is a word printed as "LPS", I thought that may depict "Linear Power Supply", is it possible this may be the odd exception?
This supply is slighly more bulky then the SB2 provided one.
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agentsmith,
Nope, I don't think that PS is an exception. I believe it's definitely a switcher supply.
Keep your eyes peeled and you should be able to find something cheap in your area.
I noticed they still have the Elpac supply at
http://www.electronicsurplus.com/commerce/ccp78438-5vdc-40-1-5a-power-supply-with-a--5-ft-2cond--23-18-wm075-1950-d5-139896.htm
This one has the DIN connector that needs to be clipped off and replaced with the two-conductor power connector, but it should work fine.
Cheers,
Davey.
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Agentsmith,
I think Davey's comment was spot on. Indeed one might think that LPS would indicate a linear supply, in the same way that PC hub supplies part number of 'PN: 253628-031 SPS' might indicate a switching power supply. I'm soooooo confused. :? Regardless, I do believe that quoted input range of 100-240vac as well as the size is compelling (yet circumstantial) evidence that it is a switcher.
I'm assuming the link you posted indicates you're in an ASEAN country, and sadly, the availability of surplus components seems to be far less than here in the States.
Tvyankee,
I'm assuming the ps you're seeking is one that replaces the 12sla batteries, that passes that voltage on to the DtoA section with its own regulators and takes a portion and regulates that down to 5v internal to the ps and passes it on to another portion of the SB. But a 12v sla typically produces 13v+. Regardless, I'm assuming that a 12v dc supply is sufficient to serve your needs. (Perhaps Vinnie will weigh in here). The only regulated linear table/wall warts I've been abble to find are the Elpacs available from Cascade and BGMicro -
http://www.cascadesurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/99/products_id/1054
http://www.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?prodid=PWR1022&page=1&cri=PWR&stype=2
either will require, I assume, replacement of the output plug. Nor do I know if the 1.2 amp rating is sufficient for this application, as it appears borderline.
Alternatively, there are unhoused 12v linear supplies available surplus. But the effort required to house it, add cords, etc.... seems a royal pain given that you've invested in Vinnie's custom ps, and that the intent of the external grid based feed is simply to not drain the battery for casual listening
http://www.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?prodid=PWR1176&page=6&cri=PWR&stype=2
http://www.alltronics.com/power_sources.htm
(first entry, Sola 12 or 15vdc supply)
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hey occam,
can you tell me what ps to get if i have the red wine modded sb2.
i have the switch installed to switch between battery and wall wart.
thanks for the help.
hope to see you at phils.
Hi tyyankee,
I recommend a linear power supply that is approx 12Vdc and can output at least 1.5A. The plug is a 5mm type with a 2.1mm center pin (center pin is positive).
This is used to bypass the internal switching supply (approx. 14Vdc) that feeds a linear regulator used by the dac. To be on the safe side, I wouldn't use a supply with a voltage greater than 14Vdc.
Here is an example of one that should do the trick:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=120-1135
There might be cheaper ones out there with similar specs.
Regards,
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Hi Vinne,
Thanks for the clarification on the appropriate range of the supply voltage. Looking at the size of that table wart from PE-
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=120-1135
I wouldn't think it is regulated. Therefore, the voltage output at less than full current rating is going to be substantially higher than that 13.5 vdc. Similarly, its lack of regulation implicitly is going to have higher ripple (and noise?) than a reasonably implemented regulated linear supply.
If that table wart isn't regulated, would this supply, at equivalent price, also from PE, possibly be more appropriate?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=120-532
Tripplite, Samlex, Pyramid, RatShaque, etc.... all market these power supplies, often as 12v SLA substitution supplies, to allow car electronics such as CB radios, to be run off of mains. These typically descibe themselves as 13.8v power supplies, the nominal voltage of a fully charged 12v SLA battery. A search on froogle, ebay, individual sites, using the keywords '13.8v' and 'power supply' will usally find them, if there.
Then again, if that PE table wart is actually regulated, ummmm, errrrrr,
nevermind. :roll:
We realize that the intent of the AC power option on your battery supply is simply for casual background listening, but hey, this is the Lab, where every subject, no matter what, deserves to be obscessively beaten to death..... :lol:
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If that table wart isn't regulated, would this supply, at equivalent price, also from PE, possibly be more appropriate?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=120-532
.
Hi Occam,
Yes, absolutely! If PE didn't state "regulated," it is best to assume that it is NOT regulated and in that case, cross it off of the list... my bad.
Regarding the Pyramid, I've used a similar supply from Tripp-Lite (linear, regulated) and it did the trick. Also, I went into a local rat shack and they had one of these 13.8V, 3A supplies as well, but it was a SMPS (stated on the box, which was also very light weight...usually an indicator of this).
We realize that the intent of the AC power option on your battery supply is simply for casual background listening, but hey, this is the Lab, where every subject, no matter what, deserves to be obscessively beaten to death.....
Understood...it goes with the territory :mrgreen:
Thanks for mentioning that Pyramid....looks like a better choice.
Vinnie
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Agentsmith,
I think Davey's comment was spot on. Indeed one might think that LPS would indicate a linear supply, in the same way that PC hub supplies part number of 'PN: 253628-031 SPS' might indicate a switching power supply. I'm soooooo confused. :? Regardless, I do believe that quoted input range of 100-240vac as well as the size is compelling (yet circumstantial) evidence that it is a switcher.
I'm assuming the link you posted indicates you're in an ASEAN country, and sadly, the availability of surp ...
Thanks for the infomation.
I am not neccessarily looking for surplus products, just trying to make sure I can get my hands on a decent quality power supply that fulfils my curiosity of tweaking.
One more silly question, if I can find a largish linear power supply, and the output Volts and/or the ampere number is larger, is it going to blow my SB2 into pieces? How do read the numbers? is there some sort of an online guide to reading power supplies?
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I was ordering some other stuff from Jameco today and checked their power supply stock out of curiousity. They offer a 5v, 1A regulated linear for $11.95. Don't know anything about it other than what is posted on the web page.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=211060
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Yes indeed, that's a linear supply that looks like it would work fine.
Cheers,
Davey.
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http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=211060
Thanks to all for the informative thread. It's all over my head and I'm looking for an off-the-shelf solution.
Would the above PS be an appropriate upgrade for an unmodded SB#3?
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shouldn't it be 1.5a??
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shouldn't it be 1.5a??
Supposedly the SB2/3 draws 1A of current. I haven't measured it myself but that is what I've heard. 'Course I've also heard 1.5A and the back of the SB says 5V/2A, so hopefully someone who has measured it will speak up.
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It draws about 750mA. That's for my wired version. I would think the wireless version might be a little more.
Cheers,
Davey.
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Thanks for all the repllies, but I'm still confused. Will this PS work for me?
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Thanks for all the repllies, but I'm still confused. Will this PS work for me?
Bob,
It should. I ordered one for a friend and it shipped yesterday via priority mail, so hopefully it will arrive in a couple of days and I can say for certain. I'll post once it arrives and let you know for sure.
It is the right voltage and current and it looks to have the correct plug.
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Follow up on the PS from Jameco. The plug has a 2mm center opening and has to be replaced for use on a SB2/3. It otherwise worked fine and was, to my ears, an improvement on the stock switcher.
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From what I've gathered through this thread and others:
1- The 1.5A 5V supplies work fine on the SB2 but the SB3 need 2A
2- The Hosfelt is no longer available and probably wouldn't work because of the above.
So, is there any cheap options like this for the SB3 users? (5VDC 2A Linear supplies with wires already attached)
Thanks,
Carl
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From what I've gathered through this thread and others:
1- The 1.5A 5V supplies work fine on the SB2 but the SB3 need 2A
I'm not sure it really needs 2amps.
I started with a SB2 and an Elpac 1.5amp, but I got a couple more 3s during the 100 off of 2 so I'm using it with a SB3 now. I'm not having any problems with only 1.5amps on a SB3, but I'm only using digital out and it isn't wireless.
To be honest haven't really tested the elpac vs the stock (it was cheap enough that I just didn't care). One of these days when I get enough time I'll build a nice one for myself, but while the elpacs lasted they were a great deal.
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Two years later......
Now that the wireless SB3's are much more prevalent certainly there's some more options available?
Is it 'written in stone' the amperage needed for a wireless SB3? 750mA....1.0.....1.5....2.0....?
(using an UNmodded wireless unit with analog outputs)
More than 50% of the links in the past 9 pages are dead, as are most of the photos.
I recently bought a SB3 and noticed the sound quality in my system took a dive :duh:
I thought a cheapo PS might be a good place to start.
Bob
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I suppose el cheapo is tough to qualify, but could you elaborate on what that might equate?
I would keep my eyes peeled for a Bolder PS, any of them, and see if that works for you - they come up used now and again, as folks like me find the upgrade bug in their bed... but I have avoided it so far!
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I recently bought a SB3 and noticed the sound quality in my system took a dive :duh:
I thought a cheapo PS might be a good place to start.
Bob, are you using an external DAC or the analog outputs of the SB3? If you're using the analog outputs, I'd suggest getting a DAC before doing anything else. I think that investing in an inexpensive DAC (under $300) would do more to improve the sound than putting the same money into a PS.
-Rob
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Bob stated in his last post that he was using analog outs. Have you considered the Channel Island VDC-SB made especially for the Squeezebox? If I wasn't going for a Bolder PS, that CI unit would be my first move,,, IF I owned a Squeezebox, JMO. :D
Cheers,
Robin
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Robin
I routed the digital out (RCA) to my Altmann Attraction DAC and optical out to my Paradisea (stock) and I now have the best of both worlds! The Paradisea runs on WE386 tubes and this gives some added warmth which makes for easy listening. The Altmann has a more expansive stage and is more detailed L to R and front to back, but the Paradisea (after a good warm up) sounds very good too!
Best Regards
Dennis
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Mark - I'd qualify 'cheap' as in real cheap. At this point in my life, I didn't want to take on any huge monster DIY projects. "huge" as in cost factor and/or time consumption. I've got too many projects on my plate and really didn't want another one. I bought the SB because....well....because I could I suppose. But my goal wasn't to starting a modding frenzy, just to simplify my two channel life. I was disappointed (to say the least) to find the unit sounds crappy. So my goal now is to get my sound quality back to what it was before I added the SB.
So to answer your question, 'cheap' defined would be one of these $20 jobbies guys are talking about.
Ron - Yes, Robin is correct. I'm using the analog DACless. Simply wired to the receivers two channel input.
Dennis - You gave me an idea....I could use ALL of the SB3's outputs to the receiver, then I could switch between them to find the better sound. aa
Actually, my little "guardian audio angel" called me at home two hours after I posted this question and told me he was staring at one of those Lexmark walwarts online as we speak. His finger was hovering over the "BUY" button waiting for me to say the word. So.....I said the word.
$21 bought the little dude, complete with all the specs that have been mentioned in the previous pages here.
One of the days when I've got less going on and more cash, I'll get probably DIY something. Or maybe buy a used Boulder unit.
Guys, thanks to all of you for the very speedy replies. A special thanks to my guardian angel. :wave:
Bob
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Bob, I would recommend that even given the opportunity that you never listen to either a modded Squeezebox or a higher end power supply as surely your wallet will suffer. A lot of times, audio is like drugs,,,, if you've never tried it then you're not going to know what you're missing. Hense you don't develop the craving. This comes from an ex-substanse abuse and a present audio addict. :lol: :thumb:
Cheers,
Robin
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Bob, I would recommend that even given the opportunity that you never listen to either a modded Squeezebox or a higher end power supply ...................
Too late Robin.
I've been to the mountain top and spoke with the wise man.
He's not only got the modded SB, he's got the $1000 Boulder power supply and it sounds SWEEEEEEET aa
Bob
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Sorry if this info is redundant, but I just found this thread today and too lazy to read ten pages to avoid repeating somebody, maybe even myself from months ago?? :oops: Anyway, you can make a great linear supply for <$100 including all parts and box using this frame power supply from power-one, available new from digikey $41. It is .05% regulation and high current for lots of headroom. We did direct comparision between mine (I have only 2A version) and stock switcher and a modified Elpac unit, playing on a modified Squeezebox, with and without Burson Buffer. There was a noticable difference on stock and modified SB3s. Much better bass, and more refined highs. I have helped a couple of guys on AC build these via PM. Sometimes you can find surplus units on EBay or surplus shops.
Power-One Open Frame power supply, Model HB5-3/OVP-AG
specsheet: http://www.power-one.com/resources/products/datasheet/lin.pdf
Digikey link: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=179-2316-ND
Here is an example of a used model from surplus seller, this is a 9A model, for $20, will work fine, same great specs. http://www.powersupplydepot.com/productview.asp?product=17151+PS
If you need help putting it together lemme know. You need a box, fuse, power cord, 5V cord, SB power plug. It sounds excellent, brings the stock Squeezebox up to it's potential at a sensible price.
There are a lot of great SB PS's available now from various sellers. 2 years ago denial about whether PS upgrade makes a difference was rampant. It makes a HUGE difference.
Rich
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richido,
I have bought one of the power suppies listed. just checking on what fuse vaule you used and what is the SB power plug type
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although "cheap" refers to the unconscious acceptance of yr. own financial means ( there are ppl which consider anything under 1000 dollar being too cheap to be a worthy contender.) 1000 dollar pws for the SB3 had been mentioned in this thread.
Why do i read so few threads over the Paul Hyne's designs ( http://www.paulhynesdesign.com/page7.html) which i thought to be of high quality too?
He is vastly "cheaper" than Bolder or Empirical audio solutions
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Paul Hynes doesn't actively promote himself on AC, so the hype is less than other brands who have an AC circle and a lots of happy and proud customers. Plus his PS products are only a few months old. If you look at the specs of Paul's products you will be amazed at their speed (ns) and low noise (-110dB?!) I have emailed to Paul on several occasions. He has bent over backwards to help me achieve my DIY goals, he is quite something.
The plug that fits into the SB is 5.5mm barrel plug. The best one you can buy is Switchcraft #760 (http://www.switchcraft.com/products/jack-146.html) from Mouser. They have a cool red handled one too, it is #765...
I think there is a 500ma inline fuse on the mains. I will check it later, I gotta dig a little to get to the PS buried behind cabinet. I also mounted a toggle switch and LED indicator through the frame face. PM if you need help, I don't always check my threads... :oops:
Rich
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What, pray tell,..is a Squeezebox?
(well, besides, you know.....)
in Quebec, it would be 'plotte' or similar, but we won't go to that side of town.
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Try this first before purchasing other pricier PS if you know the basic of soldering:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=50284.0
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Try this first before purchasing other pricier PS if you know the basic of soldering:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=50284.0
This looks to me to be a power cord,,,,, how does a power cord become a power supply for a Squeezebox? :o
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Try this first before purchasing other pricier PS if you know the basic of soldering:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=50284.0
This looks to me to be a power cord,,,,, how does a power cord become a power supply for a Squeezebox? :o
Please take a closer look at this thread.
It is a power filter, and Gary found that this power filter, when used with the switcher that came with the SB was better than the linear supply he built for his SB.
Randy
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Try this first before purchasing other pricier PS if you know the basic of soldering:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=50284.0
This looks to me to be a power cord,,,,, how does a power cord become a power supply for a Squeezebox? :o
Please take a closer look at this thread.
It is a power filter, and Gary found that this power filter, when used with the switcher that came with the SB was better than the linear supply he built for his SB.
Randy
So you're simply using the stock Squeezebox AC plug with this filtered power cord. OK I can understand that. :D I'd like to see,,, or actually hear comparsisons with this and other Power Supplys tho. I'll be looking for these comparisons, maybe at a future NY RAVE? 8)
Ohh, and my apologies to Occum for posting in his Lab,,, it was an honest mistake that I tend to do way too often.
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What, pray tell,..is a Squeezebox?
Serious? :o
It's the only "audiophile" approved way of getting you music from your PC to your system. Modifying it makes it better. There's wired and wireless versions. Also known as "SB" (short for Squeezebox) in versions one, two or three....SB1, SB2, SB3. Now they're getting fancy with one called the 'Duet'. The flagship model is called the 'Transporter'.
Used to be owen by Slimdevices, is now owned by Logitec.
Cool stuff, check 'em out.
slimdevices.com
Sorry for the short & choppy, gotta go........
Bob
EDIT: Ok, I received a kick in the 'nads this morning regarding my hastily posted crack about the SB being the 'only' approved unit...... :nono:
Yes, there's other ways. Many as I've been told.
The SB is cheap, quick, and easy. Arguably one of the top contenders for "the average man".
There, how's that "Mister ball kicker". :lol: :P :wink: