Guys,
In my new house the system is in a space with wood floors so I went with coupling discs from Audipoints to avoid damaging the floor. Here is a picture:
You can read more about them at the audio points website:
http://www.audiopoints.com/apcd2.html
To make things even better, I have added felt to the underside of the disc so I can easily slide the ...
I used another method to protect my wood floors. I simply screwed some hex head tap bolts right into where the spikes go.
Just like the full threaded ones here:
http://shop1.mailordercentral.com/marshfasteners/departments.asp?dept=61You can also get partially threaded ones, but the full thread gives you more flexibility for levelling the speaker. They come in different lengths and thread sizes. To make sure you get the right one, just bring your spike into any Home Depot, Lowes, or local hardware store. They cost pennies, and still allow for levelling. I found the threads to be just a bit rough and "sticky", but spray them with WD-40 and they will screw in very smoothly.
Once the desired spike height is achieved, I tighten a nut down onto bottom surface of speaker to snug things up and prevent height "drift".
To allow for easy sliding and positioning of the speaker, I glued some heavy duty felt pads to the bolt head. I found that the self stick stuff did not hold up, so I used contact cement. It works like a charm. Levelling is simple.....speakers are very easy to slide around and position...... and floors are protected.
The Zybar method is a good one, and I tried it initially. But in my case, the disks would get hung up on some of the board joints, making sliding around difficult. And if I wasn't careful, or pushed too hard/fast, sometimes the spike would de-couple from the disk. The hex bolts plow over floor rough spots more effectively. If it does get hung up you can slightly tip the speaker to decouple a bolt from the floor and then easily slide right over it, without losing the disk, and the floor protection.
When my friend listens critically he needs to have his speakers blocking the doorway between LR and kitchen. Rest of time, to keep the doorway open, he pushes them out of way against the wall. He initially used the Zybar method to protect his wood floor and slide his speakers around, and always struggled with the disks catching, and spike/disk de-coupling. He now uses my method without any problems. If your floors are glassy smooth, and you slide carefully, I suppose the spike + AP disk will work fine.
In terms of sound......I can't say that I heard any difference at all between the two methods.
