Hi all Audio Circle members.
Some thoughts of my criteria for the hi-fi stereo sound system in want (Dream of) for the future and share with you.
It is also criteria to go in the right direction to choose a good sounding system, for me anyway.
Of course, it is tube oriented as much as possible.
Turn table:
Belt drive with heavy platter.
If spindle (Dual 1019)
or direct driven (Panasonic SL-1200MK2),
those models might be consider if platter is heavy.
Additional heavy sub base only required with old wood floor with 16” center to center 8X10” cross beams that can transmit walking vibrations.
Table suspension become less important if the table is on heavy furniture or like me, on a 12’’ thick armored concrete floor.
I have now a Rega P-3 but would prefer a VPI Scout (Made in USA)
Cartridge:
MM (5-7mv)
MC might be better,
but require additional interconnects to go thru MC phono stage
or step up transformer.
Plus the additional cost of the MC cartridge and the step up transformer or the higher output gain phono stage.
I have now Rega Exact and don’t really want anything else.
I also have a brand new (Never used) Benz Micro Gold High output (4.3mv) MC cartridge, but keep it for the day
I will have a high gain phono stage to compare the difference between the Benz Micro MC and my Rega Exact MM.
Phono stage:
Of course, a tube phono stage, consisting of only one inexpensive tube.
Enough gain for my Rega Exact (5-7mv) and quiet enough for me.
I have now a Bellari (Made in USA) model VP-129 phono stage
and the match with my Rega Exact, is satisfying for me.
I know there are better combos, but my Rega and Bellari are paid for and do the job.
I was looking at the Wright Audio PH-2 phono stage,
but even with its reasonable price of around 1,000 USD
(Made in USA) I will keep my already paid for Bellari.
Interconnects:
This is where the hi-end maniacs will disagree with me.
I have two types of Signal Cables (Made in USA)
Regular OFC and Silver.
I also have my own brew of interconnects with
hi quality shielded OFC wires with good quality bullet connectors.
I never heard any sound differences between the silver and OFC, but that does not mean there are no differences.
I will never pay more than 75 USD for interconnects.
That’s my choice, if you don’t agree, that’s your problem…
I have them, their paid for and I will use the silver interconnects just in case in the future I can hear a difference
and I will keep them, also not to have a weak link in my hi-fi chain.
Speaker cables:
I don’t go for those wires elevating blocks, even for the wood floor.
Of course, I don’t have that problem with my 12” armored concrete floor.
I have now Signal Cables 14ga. OFC wires with good quality banana connectors.
In the future I want to buy and try the 10ga OFC Dayton wires sold by Parts Express without any banana connectors
and see if I can hear a difference.
FM stereo tuner:
Here is where my nostalgia of the 70’s takes over my audiophile logic.
My first choice is the more expensive choice,
the MR-71 from McIntosh (Made in USA).
What is the reason for that expensive choice?
The super mega vintage look,
the large illuminated dial,
the magic eyes
and all the small meters and of course, the tubes.
The MR-71 is outperformed by the sonic performance and sensivity of HH Scott vintage unit,
but I really don’t like the look of the tuning dials of the HH Scott (Made in USA).
Yes, the performances of the HH Scott FM tuner are superior to the MR-71, but that’s not what I am looking for.
However, unless I win at the lottery, I might settle for the Fisher FM-1000. (Made in USA)
I really like the long ruler type illuminated dial of the Fisher.
Right now, I have a Sony digital tuning FM tuner and I don’t like tuning with it.
The dial is too small and not romantic like the McIntosh or Fisher.
CD player.
Tube or Solid State ?
To be or not to be, that’s the question.
Well here there is no question, it’s tube.
The only reason why I bought a Rega Apollo CD player,
it because I have plenty mucho of CDs.
I find the CD sound to be way too aggressive for me, even if the CD player feeds a tube amplifier.
In the future, I might play my CDs with a Blu Ray player,
that will be mostly use for Blu Ray movies.
I was considering the OPPO 105.
But in my opinion, that’s too much money,
I think I will be satisfied with a Panasonic Blu ray player
at half the price.
Reel to Reel tape deck:
If I can find the money to buy such a machine,
(Sony or TEAC) that would call that:
Spoiling myself.
I only want a 10.5” reel to reel machine to see it unwinding tape on my A/V furniture.
I would be more a decoration than a machine making nice music, minds you, it will be making nice music.
That dream machine, might always be in my dreams
And never comes reality.
Amplifier, tube amplifier that is:
Here again, tube over solid state is for nostalgia reason.
However, I am a believer in durability of tube units.
Can you get repaired a 50 years old solid state unit?
I think not?
Can you get repaired a 50 years old tubes unit?
Certainly !
Yes, tubes amplifier is not efficient way to go.
Yes, but what about a 500 wpc solid state amplifier operating in Class A, not very efficient, it’s like having a small furnace in your listening room.
Not much different than tubes I will say.
My experience with tubes is that the sound might not be as accurate as with solid state, but is less fatiguing, less aggressive.
I am not looking for super accuracy,
but for sound that I can listen and enjoy for hours.
In the past, I had a Naim CD amplifier and I could not listen to
the system for more than two hours without becoming aggressive… Well, figure of speech.
I have now two tubes amplifier.
One Decware SE-84C+ SET and one Nightshade Audio NS-10 SE Pentode.
The Decware is a little underpowered even with 95-98 GR Research V1 and V2 speakers.
The Nightshade Audio is almost perfect; I might get it up graded to a NS-15 buy replacing the tube rectification by a solid state rectification.
Since they are paid for and still in good working condition,
I will keep them.
I was considering and I am still considering the Fisher 500C and the HH Scott tubes amplifiers, but if you look under the hood, I mean under the chassis, it look like a spaghetti junction, lots of components that can go wrong.
I know those two amplifiers; I have a reputation for outlasting your mother in law, but when it goes wrong, what happen ? ? ?
Again, to acquire such amplifier, I would have to spend 1,000 USD of money I don’t have.
I already have two amplifiers that are made in USA and that are paid for and most important, they are repairable for the next 50 years.
Headphone amplifiers:
Right now, I don’t own a dedicated headphone amplifier.
I use my mini Sony system which as an 8 Ohms headphone output and that not too good, because my Sennheiser HD-570 as an impedance of 60 Ohms.
Therefore I have to crank up the volume to 80% of its maximum and the distortion is audible.
I was thinking of buying a Bellari HA-540 which is nicely priced
And made in USA
but then, I found the website of Schiit and feel in love with their Valhalla tube headphone amplifier, even if I have not audition it until now.
Small American manufacturer with good after sales service.
I made up my mind and will buy the Schiit Valhalla tube amplifier that will drive easily my Sennheiser HD-570 or maybe my future Sennheiser HD-650, but I have to make a side by side comparison between the two HD-570 and ND-650.
Headphones:
The headphones are becoming more important in my future system, because in the future I won’t be able to drive my speakers at 90db sound level, maybe not even at 85db.
Therefore, headphones are becoming a must.
I am happy with my HD-570, but I want to see if I can get something better, however, because of my future budget restriction,
I might consider other models,
but it must always be around the ears type
and open type with some kind of velour padding,
no leather or cheap imitation of leather that make you sweat around the ears.
If I am in a good mood, I might audition the Beyers Dynamics DT-990 or the AKG Q-701, but they better impress me, because my mind is already made up on the HD-650.
At one time I was considering the Audeze LCD-2/3,
but they are expensive, not easy to drive and needs a more powerful amplifier.
Line filter:
I have a Magic Buss line filter/conditioner.
Its 120V, therefore, I cannot really use it will most of my stuff that is 230V.
When back in Canada with 120V stuff.
The worst that can happen is it will do nothing
and the best it will improve a little the sound.
Speakers:
Bass reflex, TQWTL, TL, OB, Infinite baffles, Sealed, horn…
Full range, coaxial, 2 ways, three ways, bi-amplification…
From the age of 18 up to now,
I have owned/tried them all.
Which one do I prefer?
Right now, I own the GR Research V1 and V2 and I like them.
However, each type of speakers as his own strength and weakness.
Right now, I am undecided between the following types:
8” full range driver in bass reflex or open baffle.
Yes, full range driver are shoutty.
Yes, they can be tamed with comb filtering.
I will have to decide between the Dayton PS220 and the Tang Band W8-1808 and the Audio Nirvana from Common Sense.
I now own an 8” basic model Audio Nirvana, not s super performer, but it gave me a good idea of what wide range drivers can do and it’s very efficient.
12” coaxial in open baffle with amplified (Servo or not) double 12/15” sub in open baffle, but this type of speakers need lots of room to perform at their best and in the future, room wont be available.
Right now, I am undecided, but I am considering the Tekton Lore 10” bass reflex (Made in USA), and since they offer a 30 days at home trial, I might just do that to evaluate them and maybe compare them with the Axiom M50V3 (Made in Canada) but I am afraid that the Axiom will need a sub woofer to fill their lower end, since they only have double 5.25” driver.
As you can see, I have lots of thinking, testing, evaluation and more to do.
In order of importance:
The reliability
The reparability
The look
The price
and the performance.
Thanks for reading me.
Guy 13
