[baniels]

That's precisely the reason. The thickness of MDF is unstable and at the mercy of ambient humidity. It is bone dry where I am right now. If I cut them to be perfectly flush, it could swing the wrong way in another environment. Clamping pressure is also a variable, as MDF will compress a little.

Jake, I am pretty sure Ben cut them that way on purpose. A sander will knock those edges off real easy. But if the overhand was the other way around and you had to sand a little off of a side panel to level match the edges then that would be a lot of work.

[Danny Richie]

These things are being held up in customs. As soon as they are cleared I will drive down and pick them up. So almost here....

[S Clark]

These things are being held up in customs. As soon as they are cleared I will drive down and pick them up. So almost here....

That's a heckuva drive from where you are!!! Surely just shipping them to Iowa Park is much cheaper than 20 hours of driving?????  Are these coming into Houston?  Another few days isn't going to bother any of us that are waiting on them.

[Danny Richie]

That's a heckuva drive from where you are!!! Surely just shipping them to Iowa Park is much cheaper than 20 hours of driving?????  Are these coming into Houston?  Another few days isn't going to bother any of us that are waiting on them.

No, I have them use DFW as the port of entry.

[JakeJ]

Wondered what was happening.  Thanks for the update.  I'm in no real hurry as I have one cabinet assembled and one to glue up.  Biggest lesson learned so far, cut No-Rez on a table saw not with a utility knife. 

[Danny Richie]

They just cleared. I'm out for the day. See ya....

[mlundy57]

Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy. I just love new toys 

Gluing one pair up tonight

Mike

[jeffh]

 

[mlundy57]

Should I put Asusta Stuff behind the driver in these like the X-LS and N3?

Mike

[Danny Richie]

Should I put Asusta Stuff behind the driver in these like the X-LS and N3?

Mike

I recommend mounting the filter on the back wall right behind the woofer. It was pretty easy to mount through the woofer hole.



Then put a small amount of fiberglass insulation or polyfill over it. I also added a little bit of fiberglass (can be polyfill) in the floor of the box and on the front wall in front of the port. It doesn't need too much though.

[baniels]

Hey guys. I received my kit today (thanks for the fast shipping, Danny).

I noticed that the fit of the tube connectors was pretty tight - er, really tight. I think I could pound them in, but they would certainly not be easy to remove. I've never used these before.

I measured the holes in my rear panels and they are a few thousandths smaller than the 0.4375 spec. Maybe the material has swelled since I brought it in the house, or maybe the cuts were off a little, which is possible, at such small tolerances.

In any case, make sure you check this fit. Even after running a 7/16th (0.4375) drill bit through the hole it was still really tight. A little wiggling of the bit gave a good balance between a tight fit and possible to remove. Again, I've never used these before, so I'm not sure how tight it should be.

(pardon the cross post, I want to make sure everyone sees this)

Edited to add Danny's response from the other thread:

You don't remove them. You install them and you're done.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=94014.0

And you can tap them in gently with a little hammer. I line the back side of them with a little Silicone too.

[JakeJ]

Thanks for the tip, Ben.

[JakeJ]

Danny,

How did you mount the filter?  Just hot glue the inductor to the back baffle or did you attach the assembly to a piece of wood and glue(?) or screw(?) that to the back?  Seems like hot gluing the assembly might not hold well or, heaven forbid, break loose if the speaker were ever dropped.

I'm thinking a piece of thin paneling that I can tie wrap the coil to then hot glue that to the back baffle. 

TIA

[Captainhemo]

Danny,

How did you mount the filter?  Just hot glue the inductor to the back baffle or did you attach the assembly to a piece of wood and glue(?) or screw(?) that to the back?  Seems like hot gluing the assembly might not hold well or, heaven forbid, break loose if the speaker were ever dropped.

I'm thinking a piece of thin paneling that I can tie wrap the coil to then hot glue that to the back baffle. 

TIA

Reply #48 Jake
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=124657.40

-jay

[JakeJ]

Thanks Cap'n Jay, I missed that, or saw it and forgot it.  Picking up my can of Dupli-Color Textured Metallic Charcoal paint from Napa tomorrow.

Next question.  Do y'all crimp your tube connectors before soldering or just fill 'em?  I'm assuming one must heat sink the female side so as to not melt the plastic body, eh?  Seems like this side would be best if crimped thus less air space to fill with solder.

And a couple more nits to pick.  Danny mentioned he typically uses a bit of silicone around the flashing of the tube connectors so I'm thinking a similar application to the port tube flashing as well?  I am simply trying to foresee anything that could cause buzzing or vibration.   I still need to get some poly fill and I'm thinking I can get this cheaply at a craft or fabric store?

Tomorrow I'll hit 'em with primer, mount the filters, and do the finish prep for painting.  My build has gone slowly due to interference from a multitude of sources.  C'est la vie.

I decided to use brass threaded inserts and brass machine screws to mount the drivers so I need a 13/64" drill bit to install properly, which I'll acquire over the weekend.  Maybe overkill but what the heck.

[Danny Richie]

Next question.  Do y'all crimp your tube connectors before soldering or just fill 'em?  I'm assuming one must heat sink the female side so as to not melt the plastic body, eh?  Seems like this side would be best if crimped thus less air space to fill with solder.

And a couple more nits to pick.  Danny mentioned he typically uses a bit of silicone around the flashing of the tube connectors so I'm thinking a similar application to the port tube flashing as well?  I am simply trying to foresee anything that could cause buzzing or vibration.   I still need to get some poly fill and I'm thinking I can get this cheaply at a craft or fabric store?

See tube connector installation instructions: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=94014.0

[JakeJ]

Thank you.