Finish for veneer

FireBri · « **on:** 2 Apr 2006, 01:16 am »

Want some advice on finish for paperbacked veneer applied with contact cement. Don't intend to stain, just want an natural, durable finish. Any advice appreciated.

RAW · « **Reply #1 on:** 2 Apr 2006, 05:00 am »

http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=40&products_id=738&osCsid=71fe58b2d1e50267326016dd193dce35

I would recommend this product from JoeWoodworker 100%.We have been using it for a few motnhs now and works great.

-Best off no fumes!
-Second time frame with the glue is all up to you .
-After the glue is applied to both the veneer (paper backed or real wood veneer un backed)
-Along with the MDF (this stuff only takes 2 coats on end grain of MDF)
-Let it dry even let sit for days weeks what ever you want.
-The glue bonds when you apply heat.So this means you can start a a set of cabinets walk away for a minute or weeks and come back and start back were you were before.

Waterbased for easy clean up

Just my 2 cents.

FireBri · « **Reply #2 on:** 2 Apr 2006, 12:08 pm »

Thanks! That looks like a great alt to cc. What do you recommend for finishing the veneer once its done? I've seen many opinions on this topic.

RAW · « **Reply #3 on:** 2 Apr 2006, 02:36 pm »

Depends on the veneer you pick but a real easy finish to use.
Wipe on Poly.
Natural oil as well with sanding in between coats out to a 1200 finish will get you a very nice finish as well.
But easy go to the Wipe On Poly.
http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/wipe-on.cfm

FireBri · « **Reply #4 on:** 2 Apr 2006, 04:02 pm »

Thanks again! I was actually looking at that very product on Minwax's website. I've been looking at the veneers from Band-it. I've seen some others recommended as well, but the Band-it stuff looked a little more economical. I'm in the process of a ground-up home theater upgrade and my wife's head is already spinning at the cost so far.

RAW · « **Reply #5 on:** 2 Apr 2006, 04:21 pm »

Yes the cost goes up quick and you have not even got going.
All in the fun of DIY.
Sorry Brian for answering in your forum but I know you have a lot on your plate.

If you want so more veneer tips I will

All the best

Watson · « **Reply #6 on:** 2 Apr 2006, 05:28 pm »

Wipe-on-poly is a good choice if you're looking for maximum durability. However, like other polyurethanes, it gives the surface a plastic look without a lot of depth. It also won't "pop" the grain; for instance, it won't get the deep, wavy look out of curly maple. Polyurethane also ambers over time.

If you're using an expensive veneer, shellac or lacquer (the latter only if you have adequate ventilation) are better choices because of the clarity and depth they lend to the wood. Classic fine antiques were done in shellac; nowadays fine furniture is done in lacquer for speed reasons, though shellac is still much more common among hobbyists because it's nonvolatile and nontoxic. Shellac only provides average durability, but it has the advantage that dings can be touched up years later, because a new application melts into the old.

Under either poly or shellac/lacquer, you can enhance the grain with a light application or two of boiled linseed oil diluted with turpentine. This helps most woods, but on some, e.g. fir, it may make them too dark for your tastes, so experiment first.

An alternative to the suggestions above is an oil-based finish like Danish oil or Tung oil. These are easier to use than most any other finish, but they penetrate into the wood and aren't designed to provide a uniform satin or glossy look without multiple applications. Most modern formulations contain some varnish for durability.

PhilMiller · « **Reply #7 on:** 2 Apr 2006, 08:14 pm »

Fine WoodWorking did a review of wipe-on, oil/varnish (Danish oil) finishes in their April 2005 issue (possibly available online at the Taunton Press site). Minwax was their top choice of the 15 tested. It had good penetration (so it will pop the grain on figured wood), and it was one of the few rated excellent in water resistance. It was also the cheapest of them all, and has the benefit of being available at your local home center. It was also one of the lightest (i.e., least amber tint) so it would be especially good on light-colored woods.

I've also used Waterlox. It has even better penetration, excellent water resistance, faster build (43% solids vs 32%). It was one of the darkest finishes tested.

Phil

Christof · « **Reply #8 on:** 2 Apr 2006, 10:28 pm »

I would consider dewaxed shellac with wiped on water-borne polyurethane topcoats. Also many manufacturers are coming out with oil-modified sanding sealers that can be topcoated with water. This still gives you the look of oil-based finish but much faster and less mess. Water certainly gives a different look than, say French Polishing but it has it's place. I'm building 3 sets of cabinets in B.E. Maple with solid American Cherry baffles using water specifically to get a more modern look.

FireBri · « **Reply #9 on:** 3 Apr 2006, 01:11 am »

Continued thanks for all the input! In case anyone was wondering, my project will consist of 3 A/V3S for my LCR, and 2 A/V1RS for my surrounds. I can't wait to get to work. Somewhat limited on my free time.

Bill Baker · « **Reply #10 on:** 3 Apr 2006, 03:42 am »

Quote

I would recommend this product from JoeWoodworker 100%.We have been using it for a few motnhs now and works great.

I'll second that one. This stuff works great if you haven't used the contact cement yet. It won't be long before you will no longer be able to purchase contact cement other than the water based stuff which is horrible with veneers.

For finishing, you have many options. Whatever you choose to do, just be patient and don't rush it. Patience is th ekey to quality workmanship!

I like oils myself. Especially if you are not going to stain and want to the true grain to shine! Antique Oil Finsih by Minwax with wetsanding (with the oil, not water) is my fave! You won't get that high gloss piano like finish or "plastic look" rather a natural earth tone.

If you are going with a wood that ages nicely over time such as Cherry, the polys would not be recommended. Give Cherry about a year and you won't regret using oils!! The oil finishes allow such woods to naturally age much better.

Al Garay · « **Reply #11 on:** 3 Apr 2006, 05:23 am »

Follow this link for Brian's opinion on finish product. You can see the picture of the speakers he did:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=20726&start=60

http://www.olddads.com/

Al

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #12 on:** 3 Apr 2006, 06:40 pm »

Guys,

Sorry for not getting to this sooner! I haven't tried the product that Al recommends but I'll definitely check it out as I hate using contact cement.

Concerning finish, Al is correct. IMHO, Minwax Poly is crap. But, unfortunately, it's about all that's available from HD and Lowe's. If you have a local "Wood You" unfinished furniture store near you then they sell their own line of products that is manufactured by Old Dad's/Jessup and looks MUCH better than the Minwax stuff. I've had customers, especially women for some reason, mention how much more silky and smooth the finish looks and feels compared to what they are used to seeing/feeling.

I'm also interested in trying out General Finishes products, which are available from WoodCraft, since I see that David Marks recommends them highly.

FireBri · « **Reply #13 on:** 3 Apr 2006, 11:38 pm »

Thanks Brian, and everyone else! I do have a Wood You nearby. Perhaps once I settle on the veneer and get it put on, I'll go see what they have. So many options! It's not helping my ADD.

Brian Bunge · « **Reply #14 on:** 4 Apr 2006, 05:13 am »

No problem at all. Definitely check out Wood You. Their finishing products are great. I recommend them very highly.