AudioCircle
Other Stuff => Archived Circles => General Archive => Topic started by: TjMV3 on 5 Mar 2007, 06:11 pm
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100% Bamboo Chopping Blocks under Sources, Pre Amps and Amps.
Such as these:
http://www.cookwareessentials.com/Totally-Bamboo-20-3150-TBM1038.html
http://www.amazon.com/Tru-Bamboo-Trubamboo-Jumbo-Block/dp/B00062JB16/ref=sr_1_6/103-6613437-4947027?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1173116117&sr=1-6
http://www.cookwareessentials.com/Totally-Bamboo-20-3415-TBM1040.html
http://www.cookwareessentials.com/Totally-Bamboo-20-3420-TBM1041.html
They come in different sizes, you just have to hunt around a little to find one that suits each components size.
Bamboo is excellent for audio applications, including window blinds and room treatments.
I even use 3/4 inch ones under my floorstanding speakers to avoid damaging the hardwood floor and to provide a little isolation.
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Excellent list, TjMV3...but not quite in the spirit of Free/Cheap tweeks....but a worthy start to a new sticky database for < $100.00 tweeks :thumb:
I think I read somewhere that bamboo was 20% denser than maple...so perhaps it's a better choice under equipment than that touted wood is :scratch: Anyway, it's clearly a more eco-friendly choice as it's a grass, not a tree, and grows much quicker than maple does.
Thx, John / TCG (Moderator / Audio Central)
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Excellent list, TjMV3...but not quite in the spirit of Free/Cheap tweeks....but a worthy start to a new sticky database for < $100.00 tweeks :thumb:
I think I read somewhere that bamboo was 20% denser than maple...so perhaps it's a better choice under equipment than that touted wood is :scratch: Anyway, it's clearly a more eco-friendly choice as it's a grass, not a tree, and grows much quicker than maple does.
Thx, John / TCG (Moderator / Audio Central)
Well, they are all under $100.00.
Not free, not exactly cheap.
But compared to those multi-hundred dollar isolation platforms; these are indeed "cheap".
Also, Bamboo is acoustically inert and it is much better at dealing with vibrations. Which is essentially what one would want from an isolation platform.
Actually, I think Bamboo is 16% denser than Maple :wink: , yet lighter. But 20% is close enough :green:
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Don't know what the density is, but as far as hardness, it is 25% harder than Oak, and 12.5 % harder than rock maple.
The entire first floor of my home has a bamboo floor, and this includes my main listening space. Great stuff.
Thanks for the links -- may have to get a couple of the thin boards to put under my speakers.
-- Jim
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Does thickness matter? I found some in my local store which is about half as thick as the one shown in the links above. They only cost $20 and big enough for my amp!
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Personally I prefer the two inch thick bamboo blocks, but I suppose the thinner ones will do the job, also.
I'm also going to use these bamboo blocks under my speakers, but haven't decided what thickness to go with for the speakers. I have a notion that the 1" or 3/4 " thickness would be better for speakers. But I'm not sure yet.
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Now that this new <$100.00 thread has been started, I'm going to take a huge risk and describe the tweak that I have used for the past 6 years and will continue to do so as long as it is available. There are naysayers and from what I have read some people can get angry when anyone suggests that Peter Belts tweaks actually provide any sonic benefit. I want to preface this tweak suggestion by making it clear that in my opinion this provides sonic benefit - some may think this is "snake oil" and that is fine, again this is my opinion based on my listening experiences.
I use P.W.B. rainbow foil and electret cream to treat all of my Cd's - I hear slightly deeper base and an over all richness added to the tonality of all storebought Cd's - doesn't do as much for home burned discs. If you email Mrs. May Belt in England she will send you a free sample of rainbow foil - the electret cream and foil are $35.00 each - for that price the you get enough foil to treat approx. 50 discs, electret cream will treat about 100 discs. Reviews claim this has a beneficial effect on vinyl also but I haven't tried. One downside to ordering is PWB prefers cash in American dollars for small orders - they say this is entirely at their risk - once you email them and tell them the money is in the mail they mail your product. There is also a 21 day return policy.
Here's a link to the web site:
http://www.belt.demon.co.uk/priceus.html
Happy listening! aa
Martin
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Now that we are in the 100.00 catagory, here's what I did for my speakers. Ihave Gallo Ref. 3's. Practically everyone uses some kind of platform to raise these things up off the floor. The store-bought solutions include plastic bases you fill with sand at about 600.00 per pair and I saw some Mapleshade products designed to do the same with wood. Very handsome but expensive.
I bought 4 unfinished pine table tops at 24" dia and about 1`.5 inches thick each from Lowes, stacked two for each speaker base and glued wood cabinet knobs underneath them. The total uplift was around 6 inches. I used Gorilla glue to fasten everything because it seems to slolidify everything it touches. the Gallos are now raised and seem to image a bit beter, particularly for those standing in the listening area. The wlhole thing was around 100.00. I suppose a hardwood would have been a better choice but also cost prohibitive.
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very cool weirdo. If your Gallo's are the ones Pierre Sprey made a special mounting for, go for it at some point...you won't be sorry.
I just spent $560 on Mapleshade's Floorstanding Speaker Plinths. 4" thick, 12" x 15". they are the bomb but DAMN! so expensive.
weird thing is they worked better with one under my sub, and one under my turntable (once the brass feet were removed)....keeping my speaks resting on the carpeted floor.
one step forward, 2 steps backward in 'tweaksville' sometimes.
Cool thing is they sold on A'gon last night after being listed for 20 minutes, costing me only $60 or so to try them out. Next I have to muster up the nerve to spend $250 on a single 4" board to go under my TT...mapleshade's air dried 4" wood is addicting for sure, be warned.
I might duplicate the effort you reported here though, sounds cool. finding a proper mount for speakers is crucial. Phonebooks do not work on carpet, but DO work on hardwood floors, for example...
You might try slipping empty LP album covers (or 1 layer of normal cardbaord) in between your speakers and the table tops.
matt
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Hey Goob, never thought much about paper and cardboard , but thanks for the hint. I'm going to try the album cover thing and also varying thicknesses of business cards. The Gallo's are very revealing and it is relatively easy to hear differences in cabling and vibration supression. My wife gets a big kick out of watching me try to tweak my stereo gear. Glad to amuse.
It all started with hockey pucks.............
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I use P.W.B. rainbow foil and electret cream to treat all of my Cd's
How do you apply these things? The cream I assume is rubbed on then cleaned off. Is the foil adhesive? Do you cut a small piece and stick it on? Have you tried the different types of foil?
Audiophiles are a conundrum. On one hand, we are ever-hopeful the Greatest Thing Ever will drop in our laps. But, having this hope disappointed so many times we also are skeptical of GTE claims and look for some technical footing. Do you know of any quasi-scientific explanation of why the stuff works? There are plenty of tweakers out there who would jump on the wagon for sure.
There are MANY cases of completely sane audiophiles finding happiness with sound enhancers that are not scientifically explained. Personally, as a person with limited time and budget I stick to things I can at least try to wrap my head around. I WANT to believe.
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Have a look at P.W.B. Electronics' website, its a hoot for sure. Being a tweaker i couldn't fight the urge to ask for some free foil from May Belt, peter's wife. The tiny foil slivers are attached to my Herbie's WE turntable mat, the inner plastic spindle, on top of my tv's cable box, and inside each of my speakers ports & probably somewhere on my cdp.
did the foil help? NOPE.
am i removing it? not a chance. i dig stickers and positive energy.
What gets me the most about P.W.B. are the prices. possibly the most expensive tweaks in this hobby are avail on their site.... If anyone reading has not taken May up on the free foil, by all means do so. it may not be your cup of tea, but its an interesting trek into the tweakiest of tweaks. their pricing sheet is completely insane & my favorite part of the experience.
Before you spend $850 on a safety clip with your name on it which you can attach to your seatbelt for a better sounding morning commute, check back in here for a dose of reality! I can sell you that same clip for $350 less & get you a deal on a bulk order.
May Belt occasionally chimes in on threads at audioasylum to defend their products - this sais a whole lot about P.W.B.'s conviction and belief in their products. Even though her responses are kind of cloudy, she doesn't back down or take criticism lightly.
Of all the tweaky mfgrs, P.W.B. has got to be tops, right? they make machina dynamica look tame...
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Have a look at P.W.B. Electronics' website, its a hoot for sure. Being a tweaker i couldn't fight the urge to ask for some free foil from May Belt, peter's wife. The tiny foil slivers are attached to my Herbie's WE turntable mat, the inner plastic spindle, on top of my tv's cable box, and inside each of my speakers ports & probably somewhere on my cdp.
did the foil help? NOPE.
am i removing it? not a chance. i dig stickers and positive energy.
What gets me the most about P.W.B. are the prices. possibly the most expensive tweaks in this hobby are avail on their site.... If anyone reading has not taken May up on the free foil, by all means do so. it may not be your cup of tea, but its an interesting trek into the tweakiest of tweaks. their pricing sheet is completely insane & my favorite part of the experience.
Before you spend $850 on a safety clip with your name on it which you can attach to your seatbelt for a better sounding morning commute, check back in here for a dose of reality! I can sell you that same clip for $350 less & get you a deal on a bulk order.
May Belt occasionally chimes in on threads at audioasylum to defend their products - this sais a whole lot about P.W.B.'s conviction and belief in their products. Even though her responses are kind of cloudy, she doesn't back down or take criticism lightly.
Of all the tweaky mfgrs, P.W.B. has got to be tops, right? they make machina dynamica look tame...
I agree Gooberdude -
The foil provides no improvement on anything other than compact discs (I havent tried it on vinyl). But discs that are "foiled and creamed" to my ears sound better. I am also too big of a skeptic to spend money on thier high $$ products, although I have purchased a beginners pack once - the cable rings detracted from the sound when attached to my power cables - added a high end tizziness that I didn't like - the jury is still out on the spiral tube.
MKLORSMITH this is the response I was going to send you before I saw gooberdudes response:
The foil has an adhesive backing, it comes in strips. You cut off two pieces each about 1/8 in wide and apply them to the top side of a disc, one at 45' one at 180' diagonally opposite each other, then dab a little electret cream on your finger and rub on both sides of the disc and over the foil. Use a soft cloth to buff the the cream into the disc, (I use a jewelers cloth). IMHO the sonic improvement is nearly equivalent to a one step up cable upgrade from the same company. I have used this for so long now I practically can't listen to a disc that hasn't been "treated". My wife hears the improvement also.
Here's a few links to check out:
http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize041999.htm
http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize071999.htm
http://www.belt.demon.co.uk/product/ref/ref.html
http://www.belt.demon.co.uk/product/cream/cream.html
I have tried some of the other foils and yeah they do provide additional sonic improvement, I cant see spending the extra $$$ for the return on investment compared to the rainbow foil though.
A quasi scientific explanation of why the stuff works - I'd like to assume that somehow the disc treatment allows an optical reader to read a disc more effectively, but when someone says this stuff works on vinyl also that theory doesn't hold water. So I have no idea why the stuff works, only that again I stress IMHO it does.
I would recommend that if you are skeptical, first email and get some free foil, if you hear sonic improvement take the $35.00 plunge and purchase some electret cream to fully treat a disc and see what you think. There is a 21 day return policy.
I'm not saying this stuff is the greatest thing ever.....I'm only saying that IMHO it is a great bang for the buck tweak.
aa
Martin
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I've only read of the electret cream on their site, sounds completely wild. But I use Mikrosmooth on all my cd's and dvd's, so i do realize the benefits of treating optical surfaces.
mikrosmooth simply uses friction to remove imperfections in the plastic optical surface...what the heck does electret cream do?
Glad you are a sane guy trying out their stuff...a few 'asylum posters (p.w.b. users) really add to the flames when folks think Beltian theory is snake oil. I'm one who is on the fence, but am all bout interesting tweaks and an even better business plan.
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Electret cream may smooth out imperfections as well, I have no idea....
I don't buy into the explanations given on the PWB site - its quantum physics B.S. as far as Im concerned.
Weird stuff but worth a try if you're a tweaker.
aa
Martin
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Something that just came to mind is that Geoff Kait of Machina Dynamica mentioned PWB sells 'blue magnets' for attaching to case lids...to go over transformers.
No idea what the color blue has to do with it, but i just successfully did something like this to my cdp &
i just gushed about it in a post here about $3K cd players, silly to do but that tweak alone
did more than most any i've ever tried...crazy soundstage improvement. others have reported the same recently on another forum - concerning improving cheap-o cd players this way.
so, for that one product of PWB's which i've never tried but have experienced good things from the theory & application, it might not be BS.
Spending anything more than 'free' on a fridge magnet that may do the same is...well...i won't comment.
its kinda funny to me that a lot of Beltian theory deals with positive energy, yet their products cost so much. to me, this spreads negative energy. add to that the fact you have to mail cash to the UK...
Martin, do a test for the electret cream to see if its similar to Mapleshade's product Mikrosmooth:
Take 2 brand new off the spindle cd-r's or cd's that have NOT been treated. put them optical face to optical face and gently slide them in your hands, so the surfaces rub against one another. You should feel a definite friction and even grinding sounds. Do not apply pressure or you will scratch them. Next, take 2 electret treated cd's and do the same...is the friction there? with Mirosmooth, there's NO friction after treatment. this is the test i do to show people what the product does, before they even hear what it does. Its so easy to show others that cd's have an imperfect optical surface this way....Mikrosmooth doesn't improve the sound of CD's, it simply reduces jitter in a fundamental way.
At my work are have several small recording studios, one run by an old guy who digs the stuff i came up with but is as old school as it comes. i laid 2 cd-r's in front of him on a table and had him run a finger lightly over each. his finger slid over the treated one easily but when he put his finger on the untreated cd it slid off the table and to the floor immediatley, like he had glue on his finger. his eyes lit up like a 6yr old on x-mas morning and he's told all his buddies about the stuff.
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Gooberdude,
I tried rubbing the discs together as you suggested and compared to two untreated discs, I think I can detect the treated discs have less friction - that very well may be what the electret cream does. Ive treated about 200 discs front and back with one jar - the stuff lasts forever.
"but i just successfully did something like this to my cdp &
i just gushed about it in a post here about $3K cd players, silly to do but that tweak alone
did more than most any i've ever tried...crazy soundstage improvement"
What kind of magnet did you use?
- Martin
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Interesting. Do you rinse off the cream after applying it? with MS, i literally hold each disc under the faucet to rinse the stuff off, then use Viva paper towels and the wagon wheel technique to remove the last bits of residue. its a bit of a process. now i really only use it on all Netflix DVD's, and on blank media prior to burns.
I simply grabbed refrigertor magnets for the cd tweaks. In stock form these magnets held notes & pics, now they make the soundstage about 2' wider, deeper and a bit taller. a crazy, crazy silly tweak. didn't change the tone or add more bass or anything like that. did make it 3-D compared to the pitful presentation its always had. Adding the Herbies grungebuster mat makes it perfect to my ears.
find a flat 1/2" diam magnet that is shaped like a donut (has a hole in the middle). This tweak is twofold: 1) the magnet over the cd spindle simply makes the magnets which are already in the spindle (sony put them there) into super magnets. somehow this steadies the cd as it spins, or something like that. the effect of this magnet application is MUCH more drastic than the 2) tranny magnet mod.
2) the magnet over the tranny is something difft altogether and deals with the way the signal flows through the tranny...the magnet helps (supposedly) to align something. i don't understand this part at all...but the effects are immediate and obvious. I posted about this in the Lab here, but didn't get too much addtl info.
If you try this, be sure the spindle magnet is right over the actual spindle. i nailed it the 1st time though, or so my ears tell me. moving it an 1" to the left or right removes most of the magic.
If you head over to audioasylum and go to the Tweaks section, go back a page or 2 to a week ago and you'll see posts about it. Or, try searching the word 'magnet' or even 'blue magnet' since this is where G. Kait added his 2 cents.
i wouldn't try this on a good cdp. i tried this on my Belles amp and TVC preamp, but the lids on those chassis are not magnetic. not sure if i'd be comfortable with magnets on nice gear though.
the guy who 1st reported it was using a new modd'ed Oppo combo player, in stock form these are $80 i think.
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You rub the electret cream in with a soft cloth - I use a jewelers cloth, buff the disc to a sheen.
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ALL: I discovered this forum a few minutes ago, following a link in Wikipedia on Audiophiles. Despite years of reading audio forums, I've never heard of it before, so, surprised that I recognized one of the names here. I found it amusing to find a cheap tweaks thread, because I am the king of cheap tweaks.... But I am always interested in learning new ideas. So thanks to Gooberdude for alerting me to the magnet over transformer idea. Although I've done other tweaks to transformers, I have not heard of that idea or even the PWB product that exploits it. I'll have to look into it sometime...
For many years, I have tried many similar ideas to what I see people proposing in the cheap tweak threads, in regards to putting stuff under your equipment or speakers. I have since gone full circle and abandoned the idea of doing this, and in fact, the very first message I posted in the tweak section on my own discussion forums, addressed this issue by suggesting that people toss their spikes! I know, not a popular idea for an audiophile. But I tend to trust my ears over what I read, so if the ears tell me something that contradicts popular opinion well... the ears have it, as they say.
Just to add to the fun, I'll suggest my own weird footer tweak: if you have 4 feet under your component, place a circle of unprinted blue paper under the front right foot, see if that helps anything.
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miklorsmith:
As a true and proper Beltist, I have extensive experience with the pwb stuff. If you want to know how it is alleged to work, you can ask me. But... it doesn't really matter in the end, because people will always believe whatever they are inclined to believe, and that generally means following their prejudices. So even if I go to lengths to explain it to you, you may not believe a word of it. For decades, there have been many products that audiophiles have tried but established science can't find an explanation for, so it gets written off as an illusion, when it isn't.
The cream electret is indeed rubbed on and then the excess is lightly cleaned off (it only takes a micron thickness to work). The silver rainbow foil is indeed adhesive. It is cut in strips 15mm x 2-3mm wide. What and where you place it influences how it will affect sound. Yes, I have tried different foils and the different foils do indeed produce different sonic effects. The silver rainbow foil is the least good of all the foils, but the cheapest, hence the most popular.
I have just read messages where people are trying to guess how this stuff might work, with the usual ideas about how the CD laser mechanism might interact with the foils or how cream electret interacts with the optical properties of a CD... Please don't do that! It clouds everything up, and makes a very little understood phenomenon even more poorly understood. -None- of the PWB products have any effect whatsoever on the audio signal or acoustic waves, which includes the cd's laser mechanism. They are nothing like the products of anyone else (with the exception of one of Machina Dynamica's), including Mapleshade's, despite whether they appear similar to you. A foil or the cream could have as much or more of an effect on your hot water tank than it does on your CD. (In fact, I would prefer to apply it to those kind of things than CDs). It helps to know where best to apply them, but for beginners, the CD or LP speed logo is a fine place to start.
The spiral tubing is great, I use it at the end of my headphones and USB cables (for my mp4 player). I understand why you say the cable rings add tizziness... don't write them off! Its because you dont have them in the right location. I don't know what cable rings you have or where you have tried them, but i suggest this: attach them to an alligator clip, and listen along the length of a cable, say your interconnect. That will better tell you where to apply them for correct sound. Or simply start by applying them to the input end of the IC, just where the wire meets the connector.
martinr:
>> its quantum physics B.S. as far as Im concerned. Weird stuff but worth a try if you're a tweaker.<<
It's not quantum physics BS, but if you think it is, I'd like to hear specifically why. If you have a better explanation of how the phenomenon works, that doesn't include the usual dismissive placebo theory, I'd like to hear that too.
gooberdude:
I've read some of the threads on AA that you were referring to. So I'm wondering if you're being sarcastic when you say about May's threads on AA, that it says a whole lot about PWB's conviction in their products?
I'm not so sure about the locations you tried for the foil sample you received. I've tried similar locations on a Rega P3, and didn't get good results (other locations on the deck proved to be better however). You might want to stick to the traditional CD logo for your foils. The foils -do- make a noticable difference, not just by my own experience, but I have blind tested them on total noobs. Careful listening and an open mind is usually all it takes for people to recognize their sonic signature. It may not be obvious what changes have taken place, because like all Belt products, they change characteristics that we are not used to having changed, since conventional audio operates on different components of the sound. The Belt stuff tends to make things simply sound more "natural" and less "electronic". Now how do you define "natural" to someone who has yet to recognize that sound?
Try this: Listen very carefully to a good recording, then quickly remove your foils, place them on the CD or DVD logos, many at a time, then listen again for a few minutes. Then quickly remove the foils, leave them adhesive side up on a sheet of paper, move the paper to another room, listen again. If you can't hear differences the first, try a couple more times. Many of these tests fail not because of the product or even the listener's ability, but the test methodology. And you're right, because even in a technical sense, it really does produce positive energy!
>>What gets me the most about P.W.B. are the prices.<<
Yeah, most people have that reaction looking at the price list, because they don't understand the products at all. Once you get beyond the "does it work?" stage, you look at that price list differently, and realize that the costlier products are far more effective, and simply priced according to the relative value, not their cost of manufacture. It all works out to the same in the end. It might cost you $1k to upgrade your cd player, and if $1k of an alternative means provided better sound than the cd upgrade, it might make more sense for some to take the alernative path. But most people find the foils and cream more cost effective than anything else you can get in this business.
The $850 clip you mentioned, is a good example, for it is a product that affects -everything-. Everything that the device treats improves the overall sound, and the devices you can treat is almost limited to everything you have in your house... hence to "those in the know", the sound can improve in the end -far more- than anything $850 will get you with conventional upgrades. And if you think you can get any clip (or magnet) that looks the same and it will do the same thing, its because you dont know what they can do. Trust me, been there done that! The positive energy of such products comes not in the cost, but in the sonic benefits they provide. I have proven to many that they don't have to cost anything to provide at least some hint of the benefits the products provide.
The ideas, whatever you may think of them, just work. The old guy that runs your recording studios might be even more amazed if Belt's products were installed all over the place, and he did recording tests after the installations, to find that they improved the quality of the recordings! But there isn't a "physical" connection to understand, like a "smoother cd surface", so it would be harder to appreciate in that sense. But try smearing Mapleshade's product all over the place and see how much the recordings are affected!
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-Stillpoints ERS on the capcitors and digital circuits- wrapped around transformers- great tewak for $30
Lowers BG noise and opens up sound stage- Sounds like Voodoo but really works
-Xindak Silver fuses - Increases dynamics about $15 bucks
Ivan
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Ya know, a few weekends ago I lined the inside of my power strip with ERS. I think that's a great place for that EMI paper. I bought a $20 sheet of it a few years ago to use in my computer...it never did a thing & every other audio use i tried somehow killed the sonics. it was like a wet blanket.
well i'm not 100% since i've been flipping between amps, but i think there's a lot less noise...more of that eerie 'you are there' stuff.
Balanced power technologies offers this a $50 upgrade that i chose not to do, but its probably worth it. they use more ERS cloth and put it everywhere.
ERS might be cool around the wall outlet too...
GB
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I'm glad I ran across this thread as I had recently purchased a sheet of Stillpoints ERS cloth and wasn't quite sure about the best way to use it. So this afternoon I opened up the Pacific Valve modified Lite Audio nos dac I recently purchased (great dac!), and place a small square on each of the four tall caps. Amazing! Music was now flowing out of a noticably blacker/quieter background, with greater depth to the soundstage. Instruments seem tonally more real sounding now, as well. Taking them off made me almost wince with the grain and hash that I wasn't aware of before. I know little about electronics but there are two sets of identical capacitors on two different sides of the board and I guessed that the two on the left might be for the digital circuit so I left the cloth on those and took the other two off. The sound become a bit richer, but no other change that I could tell. Put them back on and the sound took on a bit of flatness. Repeated several time, same results. After trying some other locations including the inside top cover I concluded the best sound was with just the two capacitors covered.
I didn't have such good results on an upsampler I have. Hard to get at the innards as the only acccess is from a front cover, but no matter where I managed to put some the sound became very flat. Tried a piece on the ps for my Squeezebox. No difference that I could tell. Maybe only works (if it's going to at all), applied inside the case? I have a pair of ICEpower based amps enroute. Will be interesting to try some with them.
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tweaker,
Try putting ERS on the actual DAC and wrapping the power cables in the DAC as well- I find that just putting a sheet of ERS in te equipment doesn't really work as well as sticking them directly on the Caps.
It would be interesting to hear what it does to your ICE amps- Let us know how it goes.
Ivan
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I got a sheet a while back and have been waiting for people to come forth and say where it works best. I sort of used it everywhere in my T amp and a lot inside my cdp but I haven't a clue what is best and would surely appreciate pics of both applications if someone nails this down.
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I just applied a strip over the dacs in my Lite Audio Dac Ah (NOS with 8 dacs lined up in a row) and the results were pretty bad. Sound became fairly flat. So far, the only place I've found where the ERS helps out, rather than buggers up, the sound is on two of the four tall capacitors. Will try it out next on the DEQ2496, see if it does anything helpful there. I'm of the opinion that this is not a "some is good, more is better" tweak.
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I found the ERS to work not at all helpfully in either my CDP or (former) DAC....it suffocated (kind of overdamped sound) the treble, in particular.
It works on power transformers, electrical outlets, conditioners, on IC's (just a little will do), Power Cords....but was a bad tweek inside the 3 digital/switching power supply amps I've owned.
The following helpful advice from TweekGeek.com (Mike Garner's) site....who sells the stuff:
Listed below are just a few ways in which ERS paper has been used to control and absorb EMI/RFI.
* In general, lining the inside of a component's top cover is a good place to start. If you don't want to open up your piece of equipment, then just lay the sheet on top.
* CD/DVD players - attached to the underside of the top, and attached to the bottom. This covers the power supply, and the digital ICs. Digital is probably the most notorious EMI/RFI polluter in a system.
* Preamp/ processors - attached in a similar manner as the CD/DVD player.
* Home theater processors - Treat similarly to the DVD/CD player.
* Electrical outlets - Cut in the same shape as the wall plate and place over the outside of the wall plate. The ERS is placed on the outside of the wall plate because it IS conductive.
* Power conditioners - wrapped around power cords, and covering the top, bottom and sides of a power conditioner. A very effective tweak.
* Power cords - Wrapping the cord with ERS tape. We have had excellent results doing this. 1" tape works well. Multiple layers work well too.
* Power transformers - Keeps stray rfi and magnetic fields from interfering with the audio signal.
* Crossovers - Covering the top bottom and sides, as well as wrapping the internal wires. This method needs to be "tuned" to each individual system. You will know when you've added too much ers, when the highs start rolling off, or midrange detail starts disappearing. Be prepared to spend some time on this.
* Interconnects - Wrapping the interconnect with ERS tape. This too will require some fine tuning. I use a 1/4" strip wrapped around the very end of the RCA connector's outer shell. You may also try spacing the ERS away from the cable via foam pipe insulation.
* Loudspeaker cables - Fine tuning required here as well. Start at the end that connects to the loudspeaker. You may also try spacing the ERS away from the cable via foam pipe insulation.
* Video Cables - Component, composite, coaxial, and S-vhs cables all benefit. Wrapping the entire cable provides the most benefit in this case
How much do I need?
Hitting the level of diminishing returns with ERS is difficult, and system dependant. Below are some minimum guidleines for using ERS.
* Great results have been achieved by using the ERS tape to wrap power cords and interconnects. If you are odering 1" tape, generally you will need TWICE the length of whatever cord, interconnect, etc. you are trying to wrap. An alternative to wrapping is to lay the ERS length wise down the cord. This may take two, overlapping runs to completely cover the cable, but it is a time saver. ALWAYS do a "test wrap" before removing the adhesive backing!
* For lining the top cover of a component, a minimum of two sheets are generally needed.
* For an amplifier, be sure to cover the area above and below the power transformer at the minimum. It takes about 1 sheet to do so.
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thanks for the tip if I put 2 pieces anywhere near the outside my DAC and it became flat city on MS.
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Where in this amp would you guys suggest I try ERS paper
and damping material (what kind) and where should I try it?
I have the non stick type ERS and I am concerned about conductivity of the paper in a metal chassis. Is it not going to be dangerous placed under the transformers with the metal chassis so close?
I do not play this amp with the top on it anymore.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=10069)
thanks in advance
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this is a home brew killer ICs 20.00
http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize021998.htm
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I found the ERS to work not at all helpfully in either my CDP or (former) DAC....it suffocated (kind of overdamped sound) the treble, in particular.
It works on power transformers, electrical outlets, conditioners, on IC's (just a little will do), Power Cords....but was a bad tweek inside the 3 digital/switching power supply amps I've owned.
I'm thinking that another good area of applicaton would be to apply over unused inputs of a preamp, or any other gear that has unused inputs. Have not tried yet, (my preamp is in an equipment rack and it's not easy to get at the back), but will report back when I have. Hopefully someone else will try this who has a little easier access to the back of their preamp. :D
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The only time prior to recently adding ERS to the inside of my power strip that i really played with it was inside of my computer.
I wanted to use it for LP to harddrive transfers but wanted better performance. After replacing the DVD drive with a better one & removing one of the 2 drives a terrible noise entered the scene.
I chased it around with ERS paper, a weird process, and then finally stuck a small piece directly over the 2nd unused data cable input that conected my DVD drives to the motherboard - problem solved! all i needed the whole time was a cable with only 1 input... so i knew it worked at blocking EMI/RFI, but figuring out what exactly it did (or how to use it) was daunting. i do not like the fact that its conductive either...
be careful with it around any AC current..
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I posted this on the TVC passive thread, below is tweek for tube amps.
on my 2 input tubes - Blackbery tube dampers (9pin size) 15. each
on my 2 driver tubes - Peek tube dampers (9pin size) 24.50 each
[if Blackbery used on driver tubes - 9.50 x2] or 60.00 total :D
below is my post from the TVC thread:
Speaking of detail I just swapped out my Teflon Halos 10. ea. on my Jolida amp's input tubes for his newest damper the Blackberry 15. each, jaw drop IMS- detail - was shocking I thought I was mostly there with all the improvements I have gained in recent months- not-a-no-way-not a-chance! I love it more more more and no etched sound!
this newest round of detail delivered what matters - more air, more separation, a better feeling of 3d. which for me when it isn't analytical = more real. more soul. So i pulled 2 Teflons off the input tubes changed to 2 Blackberry, pulled 2 Teflons off driver tubes changed to Peek (not as detailed, more body, less glare).
So I did not even do Blackberries on the drivers and I am floored. Its fantastic there is always more to be had and a blessing when its inexpensive, cause last weeks improvement is already assimilated - absorbed into my newest perceptions and then I start looking studying digging for more............Hmm is that why we spend all this time on this forum?
from Herbie's site:
With C-ring made of black beryllium copper and soft, proprietary isolation pads, Herbie's BlackBery Damping Instruments deliver the utmost sonic resolution. Herbie's best damping instrument brings out the "Wow!" factor in your tube gear--for small-signal preamp, input, and driver tubes.
I think for MS anyway, his estimate is conservative and modest at best. 90 day return policy, you can not lose. :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: I am quickly tirering of subtle improvements when recently I am finding major ones for small audio $$.
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Installing a Hammond 193M choke in parallel to my AC sockets.
Check out the threads at Audio Asylum for more info.
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Alan Maher AC Power Enhancer. It is a broadband AC filter that plugs into your AC circuit.
$75.
Usually has an ad in Audiogon these days.
I bought one and it had quite positive results and I already have a dedicated line.
Lower noise floor and reduced glare and noise.
I ended up getting two more.
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http://www.audiointerferencesolutions.com/products.html
Biggie.
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The Hammond choke tweak sounds very interesting...please report back with yiour findings.
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Alan Maher AC Power Enhancer. It is a broadband AC filter that plugs into your AC circuit.
$75.
Usually has an ad in Audiogon these days.
I bought one and it had quite positive results and I already have a dedicated line.
Lower noise floor and reduced glare and noise.
I ended up getting two more.
Is that a stand alone product that acts like a Noise Harvester or do you plug your PC into it? TIA
(http://gon8.audiogon.com/i/c/f/1169660276.jpg)
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Eric--
You plug it straight into the outlet. The ones I have do not have the ground blade-just the L/N blades.
He feels they are better than the Hammond choke in most setups
if I understand him correctly.
I have three on my circuit now which is a dedicated line with actually 5 duplexes/or ten outlets total and I have a shitload of stuff plugged into them including a heavy duty Isobar ultra 6 power strip.
Seems to work as advertised for me but as always YMMV. Takes a full week to break in and charge up and adapt to your circuit. If you pull it out-the process starts over again.
Maybe he can chime in here. Not sure if he belongs here. His user name (and email address) at Audio Asylum is audionutge@yahoo.com.
He posts a lot on Tweaks/DIY forum.
Really nice guy and loves to discuss the theory and pragmatics of AC filtering.
Beats the hell out of the guy selling phone calls. :scratch:
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Hello All,
I will be happy to answer all questions you might have about the PE filters offered on A-gon.
Regards
Alan Maher
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alan, does your device have anything to do with this technology?
http://quantumqrt.com/cat.cgi?s=Symphony%20Pro
marvin
OOPS! typed at the same time. :oops:
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If I understand correctly, QRT is a combo of resonate and broadcast technology. I use QRT products in my own system, so I have a basic working knowledge of how it works. Our product differs. Our unit is a multi-stage parallel capacitance filter. The PE covers a range of 120KHz up to 1.5GHz with a -6db reduction in noise pending frequency.
Alan
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Actually, internal components, processors, etc, work outside the typical analog band of 20Hz to 20KHz. Digital circuits work between 80KHz up to GHz pending processor design. The PE, same as all other types of parallel filters, address the harmonics above 60Hz that effect this type of circuit. At the same time, the PE also effects the analog band via enhancing common mode rejection inside the house wiring. In a typical application, the PE provides common mode rejection, power factor correction, RF/EM filtering, and component isolation. All parallel filters offer the same benefit, but to my knowledge, the PE has the widest bandwidth of any parallel filter on the market.
Alan Maher
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If you limit me to $100 and we define a tweak as a non-equipment related item I'd say a Rat Shack SPL meeter. Measuring your low frquency in-room response is critical to getting good results and the Rat Shack & some test tones and graph paper are about the cheapest way of getting there.
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If you limit me to $100 and we define a tweak as a non-equipment related item I'd say a Rat Shack SPL meeter. Measuring your low frquency in-room response is critical to getting good results and the Rat Shack & some test tones and graph paper are about the cheapest way of getting there.
Did somebody say "Radio Shack?" aa
While he may be reluctant to admit it, but everything Kevin knows about Radio Shack, was taught to him by myself.
The Old Rat Shack was the DIY'ers best friend for a generation or more and many of the pro's, like Kevin, probably did some of their first projects using stuff from the Shack.
Gone, but not forgotten.
Best regards,
TerryO
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I would like to get some ideas on how to optomize CD player sound by way of vibration control. Does weight need to go on top of the player or below? Also, I have seen a reference to some clock boards
that are supposedly easy to install in the CD player. I am interested also in any type of signal conditioning at or around the 100.00 mark.
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Sound Quest ISOL Pads $25 for 4. I use them under all components and cables. I have not heard bad thing about these isolation pads from anyone.
They are inexpensive, they are easy to use they are non directional and they simply do what they are supposed to do - isolate your component from the shelf using rubber cork rubber. Components do not slide or become unstable.
Cheers
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Home Depot stick-on vinyl floor tile. Use it to dampen cheap CD/DVD player cabinet resonances. 75 cents/tile, one is usually enough.
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Make an appointment at you general practitioner el doctor and have your ears irrigated. No joke. See if he thinks your wax build up is normal. Go home and hear how much high frequency information you have been missing.
Recommended recording for excellent recording technique and wonderful vocal jazz- You Won't Forget Me- Shirley Horne (Verve). The last thing Miles ever recorded is on the title track. You can thank me later.
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.
Recommended recording for excellent recording technique and wonderful vocal jazz- You Won't Forget Me- Shirley Horne (Verve). The last thing Miles ever recorded is on the title track. You can thank me later.
Got it on "But Beautiful: The Best of Shirley Horne on Verve",,,, Good Stuff! As far as cheap tweeks, I believe you get what you pay for, especially after your system has hit the point of dimishing returns. It's at this point where little improvements cost a lotta $$$$. So for under $100, I'd say 1 Bybee but for a major improvement,,,,, well I have 22 Bybee's and I'd love love to replace the 4 Bybee's on my front main Lorelei's with Jack Bybee's Golden Goddess Speaker Bullets, only $4200. :o
Robin
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The only problem with getting an ear irrigation from a doctor is that I haven't found one (doctor) since 1988 who will do that anymore. Maybe an audiologist is a better alternative.
-- Jim
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Over on 6moons there was a review by Jeff Day a few months back of what he called the White Lightning Moonshine speaker cables and IC's. http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/whitelightning/moonshine.html
I made a trip to Wal-Mart and bought the Woods Yard Master Patio Cord specified in the review ($7.88) and made new speaker cables for both my systems. I had some Audioquest and Knu Koncept bananas in the drawer and used those for the living room. Bare wire for the bedroom system.
Like the article says, these are terrific speaker cables and allow a richer, more musical and extended at the frequency extremes sound than the Anticables I had been using. The improvement has been just amazing to me. I figured that I must have spent over $10 on the bananas so it doesn't qualify for under $10.
Do yourself a favor and try them out, the price is ridiculously cheap and the results are crazy good.
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A note of warning regarding ear irrigation... an eardrum can be ruptured when having this done, causing hearing damage or worse, permanent tinnitus! I know, as this happened to me. I would proceede with extreeme caution regarding this "tweak".
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Thanks a lot for the link, Larry.
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A note of warning regarding ear irrigation... an eardrum can be ruptured when having this done, causing hearing damage or worse, permanent tinnitus! I know, as this happened to me. I would proceede with extreeme caution regarding this "tweak".
That is very disturbing. I hope doctors warn patients about this potential complication first.
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A note of warning regarding ear irrigation... an eardrum can be ruptured when having this done, causing hearing damage or worse, permanent tinnitus! I know, as this happened to me. I would proceede with extreeme caution regarding this "tweak".
Thats exactly why many doctors will not do this unless it is to fix/avoid other ear health issues.
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Over on 6moons there was a review by Jeff Day a few months back of what he called the White Lightning Moonshine speaker cables and IC's. http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/whitelightning/moonshine.html
I made a trip to Wal-Mart and bought the Woods Yard Master Patio Cord specified in the review ($7.88) and made new speaker cables for both my systems. I had some Audioquest and Knu Koncept bananas in the drawer and used those for the living room. Bare wire for the bedroom system.
Like the article says, these are terrific speaker cables and allow a richer, more musical and extended at the frequency extremes sound than the Anticables I had been using. The improvement has been just amazing to me. I figured that I must have spent over $10 on the bananas so it doesn't qualify for under $10.
Do yourself a favor and try them out, the price is ridiculously cheap and the results are crazy good.
Woods clone...
In case someone is having trouble finding this wire, the Woods "Yard Master" cord is also being marketed as "Utilitech" now in stores. I found this at Lowes today and it's the same cord (the imprinted info on the outer jacket is the same as the Yard Master and the internals are identical). Although hard to read here, it states, "Distributed by Woods Ind. on the package:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=13176)
It is pretty good stuff... aa
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Waipuna sound Myrtlefeet
$39 for three feet (for one component) - shipped!
There is January sale going on for $35 shipped
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?accstwek&1205013996
This is wholesale price - once he gets dealers it is going to double!
I bought 4 sets.
Works great
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For me at least- clean up the entire listening room. Mine doubles as my bedroom, so more often than not its really messy, but the few times I do manage to get it clean the music somehow sounds better...maybe its cause I know it won't last that long.
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Waipuna sound Myrtlefeet
$39 for three feet (for one component) - shipped!
There is January sale going on for $35 shipped
http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?accstwek&1205013996
This is wholesale price - once he gets dealers it is going to double!
I bought 4 sets.
Works great
Thanks for the tip....just put my order in to give them a try.... :wink:
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I also ordered a set of the myrtle blocks. The guys from Waipuna must be trying to figure what going on!
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Make sure when you order it - ask him to send it to you without the felt at the bottom. In other words you do not want the felt glued at the bottom. The felt at the bottom takes away dynamics. Just like you say "sauce on the side" - you may sau "felt" on the side - that way you can try it with or without - without having to glue / remove it.
I had to remove the felt - which took quite some time and energy.
Enjoy!
PS: The felt was put to provide protection for the shelf for those who need - it is actually sonically not good.
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Make sure when you order it - ask him to send it to you without the felt at the bottom. In other words you do not want the felt glued at the bottom. The felt at the bottom takes away dynamics. Just like you say "sauce on the side" - you may sau "felt" on the side - that way you can try it with or without - without having to glue / remove it.
I had to remove the felt - which took quite some time and energy.
Enjoy!
PS: The felt was put to provide protection for the shelf for those who need - it is actually sonically not good.
Thanks for the info.....done. 8)
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Make an appointment at you general practitioner el doctor and have your ears irrigated. No joke. See if he thinks your wax build up is normal. Go home and hear how much high frequency information you have been missing.
I have my ENT MD do this yearly and agree it's one of the best "tweaks" one can do - essential "equipment" maintenance.
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Sound Quest ISOL Pads $25 for 4. I use them under all components and cables. I have not heard bad thing about these isolation pads from anyone.
They are inexpensive, they are easy to use they are non directional and they simply do what they are supposed to do - isolate your component from the shelf using rubber cork rubber. Components do not slide or become unstable.
FYI: This is another PRIME example of audiophiles being DUPED and OVERCHARGED for a product readily available to the public at a far cheaper price. These are the EXACT SAME pads that are used to quiet A/C compressors and are sold at AC/Heating supply housess for a couple of bucks each.
Yes, there are MUCH worse examples of "audiophile" companies ripping people off, but a rip-off is STILL a rip-off.
Another recently noted example is the "VPI" turntable level (red triangle with two perpendicular bubble tubes) sold for $13 and also at HOme Depot for $4.
I know these are MINOR examples - "petty larceny" so to speak. There are IMNSHO plenty of cases of GRAND larceny being perpetrated, mostly in the realm of WIRE. Yes, I agree that wire makes a difference. What I DO NOT concur with is that very good sounding wire needs to cost a LOT of $$.
Yes, there certainly ARE expensive equipment items that well justify their cost. However I think many "would be audiophiles" and newbies are put off by the seeming INSANITY of pieces of wire that cost many hundreds if not thousands of dollars.
Just bought enough "White Lightning Moonshine" extention cord to bi-wire my speakers. We'll see how this experiment goes. 8)
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Sound Quest ISOL Pads $25 for 4. I use them under all components and cables. I have not heard bad thing about these isolation pads from anyone.
They are inexpensive, they are easy to use they are non directional and they simply do what they are supposed to do - isolate your component from the shelf using rubber cork rubber. Components do not slide or become unstable.
FYI: This is another PRIME example of audiophile's being DUPED and OVERCHARGED for a product readily available to the public at a far cheaper price. These are the EXACT SAME pads that are used to quiet A/C compressors and are sold at AC/Heating supply housess for a couple of bucks each.
Yes, these are MUCH worse examples of "audiophile" companies ripping people off, but a rip-off is STILL a rip-off.
Mr Doak is correct. Here's an outfit that will sell you 4 pads for $6.00 (plus shipping). It's about a third of the way down the page, see if you can tell any difference from the picture aa
Anyhow, here tiz:
http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/vibrationpads.htm
Best Regards,
"CheepTweek" TerryO
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Terry at al, they are likely all the same.
I just happened to be looking at 'footers' the other day and noticed there is a new guy on the scene at Audiogon selling them cheaper now ($10/per 4)....http://buy.audiogon.com/cgia/cls.pl?accstwek&1205867259
So, at least it's moving in the right direction now :thumb:
Frankly, our little hobby is so small there is little economy of scale to develop much for us specifically. So, much of what it out there in accessories and component parts began life as something else for something else.
John
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Here's an outfit that will sell you 4 pads for $6.00 (plus shipping). It's about a third of the way down the page, see if you can tell any difference from the picture aa
Anyhow, here tiz:
http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/vibrationpads.htm
Best Regards,
"CheepTweek" TerryO
Great site TerryO! Lots of neat and interesting stuff/info here. Lotsa possibilities and educational.
Thanks,
Doak
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Well I did it,,, Built myself a set of WLM (White Lightning Moonshine) speaker cables.
I won't keep y'all in suspense -with only about 10 hours on them I can easily say: They are REALLY, REALLY good!
Since I needed a set of matching cables for my Emerald Physics CS2, I figured I'd start cheap and take things from there.
I did things a bit differently than the 6 Moons DIY article. #1) I don't use no STANKIN banana plugs - bare wire tinned with silver solder are my "terminations" except for unplated quarter inch push-on connectors attached directly to the HF compression driver. #2) I borrowed an idea from a HD-14 (the orange Home Depot wire) construction post I read and wrapped my two cables for each channel (the CS2's require bi-amping) with Teflon plumber's tape.
I'd been using combinations of wire I had around: Audioquest Type 6, Signal Cable Ultra, and Polk Cobra cable (triple run).
Just as I wanted to use identical top and bottom amplification on the CS2, I wanted to use identical speaker cable to keep everything singing in unison. This is one experiment that's worked out WAY beyond my expectations.
I did have to pay a bit more than I expected for these wires. The Walmart I went to only had the stuff as 20ft. extention cords priced at $7.86 each. Since I need 14ft. runs to each channel I had to buy 4 of them - nearly $32 worth! aa
I used about $5 of Teflon tape and splurged and bought a $4 pack of mutli-colored electrician's tape to pretty things up - total investment about $40 for a custom made, nice looking and GREAT sounding set of speaker cables for my bi-amped system.
With these in the system I feel I am truly hearing what the CS2's are capable of for the first time. I am literally Blown Away by what I am hearing. I see/hear NO reason to look further for speaker wire for this system - not anytime soon anyway. I'll turn my attention to other pursuits and listen to more records.
Doak
(http://members.cox.net/doak/WLM1%20web.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/doak/WLM2%20web.jpg)
(http://members.cox.net/doak/WLM3%20web.jpg)
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Sounds like fun and yes, you should post pictures for us to see your creations :)
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...
With these in the system I feel I am truly hearing what the CS2's are capable of for the first time. I am literally Blown Away by what I am hearing. I see/hear NO reason to look further for speaker wire for this system - not anytime soon anyway. I'll turn my attention to other pursuits and listen to more records.
I can post/send pics if anyone is interested.
Doak
Good deal, I'm having great results as well. :)
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Sounds like fun and yes, you should post pictures for us to see your creations :)
Have added pics to original my WLM post above.
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Doak,
Your cables look good! I notice that you are using two wires for the (-) side and one wire for the (+). Intuitively, I thought this would be preferable. However, the six moons version uses two wires for the (+) and one for the (-). Does anyone have thoughts on why six moons configured their cable that way?
BTW, I have been using mine consistent with Doak's scheme, I haven't tried switching them because I'm happy.
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Doak,
Your cables look good! I notice that you are using two wires for the (-) side and one wire for the (+). Intuitively, I thought this would be preferable. However, the six moons version uses two wires for the (+) and one for the (-). Does anyone have thoughts on why six moons configured their cable that way?
BTW, I have been using mine consistent with Doak's scheme, I haven't tried switching them because I'm happy.
Hey,
I read posts from more than one person who said they definitely preferred the 1 wire +/ 2 wires - configuration... It would be easy enough to try it the other way around, but I'm not stopping the record player to try it. :lol:
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Hi Doak. I suspect the soundproof pads are too stiff and not compressible enough for stereo components. They are rated at 50 lbs each, so with four, would work with a 200 pound component. I'm getting some anyway to compare with the mapleshade isoblocks I already have in my system. The mapleshade pads doubled stacked, are 25 lbs so each one is about 12.5 lbs. Will post when I get the soundproof pads.
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Hi Doak. I suspect the soundproof pads are too stiff and not compressible enough for stereo components. They are rated at 50 lbs each, so with four, would work with a 200 pound component. I'm getting some anyway to compare with the mapleshade isoblocks I already have in my system. The mapleshade pads doubled stacked, are 25 lbs so each one is about 12.5 lbs. Will post when I get the soundproof pads.
I am VERY interested in your findings. I have a LOT of respect for what Pierre Sprey of Mapleshade has done in the audio fled. I have purchased a number of his products including the Isoblocks - several years ago. I read his webpage about how he tweaked and designed them by ear to be most effective. I'm not sure what to think at this point. They sure LOOK like all the others. Maybe this is one time I won't mind being wrong. :|
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I think it should be alright if an audio dealer made $13 by selling 4 isolation pads to an audiophile. His time is worth something and they need to bring food on the table, pay bills, stay in business etc. etc. This device works and it does not cost you arm and leg.
There are many isolation devices out there that may or may not work in your system - it may make your system worse or change the tone etc. I have had isolation devices that were slippery. Still YMMV as they say :)
Peace!
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Woods clone...
In case someone is having trouble finding this wire, the Woods "Yard Master" cord is also being marketed as "Utilitech" now in stores. I found this at Lowes today and it's the same cord . . .
ohenry, thanks very much for this information. My local Walwart didn't carry the Woods brand, but I did find the Utilitech wire at my local Lowe's.
doak, thanks for posting your photo, too. I'll be building these for my Feastrex speakers, too.
Mike
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Well, I got the extension cord at Lowe's, but when I got home and looked at it carefully, I noticed that it's not distributed by Woods, it's distributed by some Chinese company and it says that it's made in China. I should have thought to check it in the store.
So, I guess that Ultitech decided to use wire made by another company instead. I have no idea if this wire would be as good as the original Woods stuff, so I guess I'll return it and keep looking.
Does anyone out there know where it might be available?
Thanks,
Mike
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Mike, PM me the imprinted information on the cord jacket, and I'll compare it to what I have to see if it's the same.
Edit:
It's all made in China, BTW. My cord is imprinted with:
(UL) SJTW E56356 VW-1 60o C 300V 16 AWGX3C (followed by a string of metric parameters).
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ohenry, thank you very much for the help!
I sent you that information in an email.
In case anyone else is interested, here's what's imprinted on the cord I bought:
(UL) C(UL) SJTW E176194 3/C 16AWG(1.31mm2) 300V VW-1 60o C CSA SJTW 205585 3/C 1.31mm2 (16AWG) 300V FT2 60 oC MADE IN CHINA
So, it’s a little different than the information on your cord, but I wonder if the differences are relevant or not. Does anyone know? It would be nice if it's the same exact cord.
The cardboard package looks almost exactly like yours, but the UPC code is different, and the fine print above it says, “Distributed by/Exportado por: LG Sourcing, Inc. P.O. Box 1535, N. Wilkesboro, NC 28659 USA” It also says, “Model 30007” The item number is the same as yours: #144845.
Thanks!
Mike
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Henry,
I just picked up the exact numbered Utilitech cable you listed today at Lowes.
It was the last one! Is there a run on these things? aa
I will post my findings here.
Currently using for a long time Kimber 8TC
Den
I got around to making these up today. 2X7' (with writing from the amp), and as per 6 moons article with 2 twisted wires for + and one for -.
These are really nice sounding cables no, VERY nice. Highly recommended. As was mentioned great tone and balance.
All for $7.89. Geeze!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hammond Chokes [filters] 193M and 193L. Potent tweeks, Extremely cost effective and under $100. Good prices at tubesandmore. Place in your power conditioner using a high grade a/c plug, and/or a duplex outlet with audio/video, at the component on the detachable power cord using monitor/power supply liberator [IEC liberator]. Very synergistic with Alan Maher Power Enhancers also great tweeks. See Industry Talk forum Alan Maher power enhancer[PE].
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I just bought the Woods Yard Master Patio Cord from Wal-Mart ($7.88 for 40 ft.). Being a bit skeptical, I didn't tin the ends or add any connectors for a pair of speaker cables, because I wanted to hear for myself if this was worth the hassle. Well, it is. These cables do everything that Jeff Day of Six Moons and anyone else who has tried them has claimed. Needless to say, I have placed an order with Audio Magus for the Multi-Contact banana connectors and the Switchcraft RCA connectors. Once I get them, I'll also roll a pair of interconnects. Like Doak, I won't even think about a new pair of speaker cables for a long, long time.
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Pick up some Ebony Macassar wooden blocks and put these under your components and cables
This made a significant difference in my system something I wasn't expecting
I heard an added "Sense of air and Extension" across the whole musical spectrum !
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Hey guys. This is an inexpensive tweak but produces a huge difference in sound. http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=50320.msg451495#msg451495
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I was just sent these Myrtle wood blocks to audition. http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accsrack&1206326739 (http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accsrack&1206326739)
I brought them over to a friends house this afternoon to give them a quick listen in his system. Under his modified Esoteric CD player the Daruma III's that he had underneath sounded a little better. We then installed them underneath his ElectroCompanient preamp and was pleasantly surprised how much better the soundstage solidified. The orchestra now did not seem as one dimensional. You could almost see the different rows of musicians playing in the orchestra with these blocks underneath the preamp. We then put them underneath his Atmosphere monoblocks and we experienced a similar improvement. Was a bit more pronounced under the preamp tho. At $10.00 for a set of 3 plus shipping this was a no brainer and the best improvement that has tired underneath the preamp and amps. Keep in mind all of his equipment was already on Mapleshade 2" Maple platforms. I was pretty impressed at the sonic improvement that he received for $15.00. One interesting thing with these blocks is that Phil marks the bottom side. He claims that in his listening test that there is a difference sonically by the way that the grain in the wood goes.
I am now looking forward to hearing them in my system when I can get some time to sit down and listen for more than a few minutes.
As always your mileage may vary depending upon your systems resolution.
Gregg
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Thanks Greg. I just ordered up a set for my pre.
$15 is a darn good deal.
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(http://herbiesaudiolab.home.att.net/babyboot.jpg)
Herbie's Baby Booties: 1/2"diameter x 2/32" high tiny feet provide isolation for light components such as Dac's, power supplies, preamps, etc. Weight range from 4oz to 10lbs. I personally have never disliked any of Herbie's footers, Fat Black Dots or Tube Dampeners. $3.19 each or an adhesived back one for $3.69. Save the $.50 and use superglue. :thumb:
Cheers,
Robin
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I think these are just under the hundred dollar ceiling and they woke me up when I slipped three of em under my line stage- Rollerblock jr's, to isolate things from your rack or whatever supports them.
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Anyone who has a TV screen between their speakers, or even in the same room with them should give this a try.
I've traditionally had my music only system in a different space than the TV/HT stuff - actually for a long time I didn't even have a TV.
I finally took the plunge and bought a big plasma screen for watching DVD movies (Netflix is a godsend) and have the sound piped through the stereo system. I had a full blown 7.2 HT system and tried to do an "all in one" type HT/audio/everything system but I could never get my records (as in vinyl LP's) to sound like I wanted them to. I think the whole "surround sound" thing is basically a gimmick anyway.
I'll cut to the chase: I knew that 50" screen (actually measures 34"H x 48"W) was affecting the sound. Even though my speakers, Emerald Physics CS2, are well in front and to the sides of the screen they are di-poles and about as much sound comes out of the back as the front. I knew I was getting plenty of reflection off of that monster. I started experimenting by draping multiple blankets over the screen when listening to music. There was no doubt - the center fill was much better and everything seemed to be more focused. I brainstormed about about a better way of accomplishing this - something more convenient and more aesthetically pleasing. What I came up with is a BIG pillow. We're pillow afficianados here. My lady has nick-named me "the pillow engineer" for reasons not related to this post - "The right pillow for the job at hand" is my motto. aa
(http://members.cox.net/doak/pillow%20mod.jpg)
I did an internet search and came up with something that was just the "ticket". Advertised dimensions are 36" x 60" x 12". It actuallly measures 34" x 55" x 10", hence my use of the "booster" pillows you can see in the photo. This thing is heavy, estimated 30 lbs, and stuffed with shredded high density foam rubber. It certainly does a great job of sonically and visually masking the plasma screen. When we want to watch a movie the BIG pillow serves as nice backrest on the sectional sofa.
My version of the "FuF Pillow" is made of eggplant colored velvet fabric. It costs $87 plus $14 shipping, so officially at $101 total it's just above the $100 limit for this thread but with a different fabric choice it can be delivered for under $100.
Here's a link to the vendor. Nope, I have no connection with them except as a customer:
http://www.beanbagsuperstore.com/foof-floor-pillow-large-velvet.html (http://www.beanbagsuperstore.com/foof-floor-pillow-large-velvet.html)
I've always said that I'd never have a music system that included a TV but I've learned never to say never. This solution looks like a "win/win" from my perspective. Try it yourself startng with some heavy blankets and see if you may want to make an the investment in a practical and flexible solution to the "big screen" problem.
There are cheaper ways of getting this done, but with this solution you get something otherwise useful AND something that does the sonic job VERY well.
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Far too lazy to check if any posts covered it yet but I recently got a pair of the Daikom feedback stabilizers for 39.99 each. They go between the output connectors of your devices and the Interconnects. I have no idea what is inside the little box with wires. Ok stop laughing for a minute. They actually work.
Cleaned up the screaming and garbled sonics of the redbook CD's so much I am postponing upgrading my CD player. Any other takers out there? Any that will admit it?
Best tweak I've used in the last 5 years.
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I haven't read through the 10 pages of posts so sorry if this has been mentioned.
My number one free tweak is to move your equipment away from the speakers. I have my player and amp behind my listening position. This helped pretty much everything.
Also, depending on your floor reducing floor vibrations can help. I use spikes under my equipment, a slate tile under the spikes and a bicycle inner tube under the slate. (Same for my speakers except wood planks instead of tiles.) I have a suspended wooden floor and I can feel it vibrate with my feet sometimes. So this makes quite a physical difference to the floor vibration reaching the equipment. Also you can jest with visitors about pumping up the stereo...
Disclaimer: not tested these blind (bit tricky!) but each of these seemed to have a positive effect. Logically, if they have any effects they will be good ones - other than potentially wasting time and effort of course. :wink:
Darren
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Also...
If you own an SB3 the best (and free) tweak is to use Inguz. I use it to do digital EQ on the bass frequencies and without a doubt I can't live without this now. See this thread: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=51994.0.
Buy a cheap mains filter. Mine is in budget (approx $80) and shown here: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=1&ModuleNo=46830&doy=25m6. This tweak falls into the same category as my previous post - hard to be sure it makes a difference but it can only do good.
Darren
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Call your utility company and have them check the terminal connections (especially if you live near an ocean... the salt air will corrode the connections) to the utility pole and into your home. If there is a bad connection, your system will be picking up all kinds of noise from your appliances. The best part is that it is free... aa at least if you live in California.
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(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/5765/macallan10yearsnh6.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
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Henry,
I just picked up the exact numbered Utilitech cable you listed today at Lowes.
It was the last one! Is there a run on these things? aa
I will post my findings here.
Currently using for a long time Kimber 8TC
Den
I got around to making these up today. 2X7' (with writing from the amp), and as per 6 moons article with 2 twisted wires for + and one for -.
These are really nice sounding cables no, VERY nice. Highly recommended. As was mentioned great tone and balance.
All for $7.89. Geeze!!!!!!!!!!!
Everyone,
I have purchased these WLM cables (using for speakers only) as well and installed them in my new system. Being a new system I have no reference but everything is sounding really good. I am curious if there would be a difference if you just twist all the wire together and use this one "whole section" per lead, + / -? This is what I have done instead of separating out the black and using it as a - only. My thoughts were more is better and at the ridiculously low cost why not?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
James
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Tweak: Cyrus Isoplat
Bought this isolation platform in 1993 and recently cleaned it and placed the platform under my tuner. The sorbathane feet still feels bouncey. The platform feels hefty and is made of MDF wood. All these years, no sign of wood warp but grey paint looks a little dull. Does any AudioCircler still use the Isoplat?
Best Regards
Dennis
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Anyone who has a TV screen between their speakers, or even in the same room with them should give this a try.
I've traditionally had my music only system in a different space than the TV/HT stuff - actually for a long time I didn't even have a TV.
I finally took the plunge and bought a big plasma screen for watching DVD movies (Netflix is a godsend) and have the sound piped through the stereo system. I had a full blown 7.2 HT system and tried to do an "all in one" type HT/audio/everything system but I could never get my records (as in vinyl LP's) to sound like I wanted them to. I think the whole "surround sound" thing is basically a gimmick anyway.
I'll cut to the chase: I knew that 50" screen (actually measures 34"H x 48"W) was affecting the sound. Even though my speakers, Emerald Physics CS2, are well in front and to the sides of the screen they are di-poles and about as much sound comes out of the back as the front. I knew I was getting plenty of reflection off of that monster. I started experimenting by draping multiple blankets over the screen when listening to music. There was no doubt - the center fill was much better and everything seemed to be more focused. I brainstormed about about a better way of accomplishing this - something more convenient and more aesthetically pleasing. What I came up with is a BIG pillow. We're pillow afficianados here. My lady has nick-named me "the pillow engineer" for reasons not related to this post - "The right pillow for the job at hand" is my motto. aa
(http://members.cox.net/doak/pillow%20mod.jpg)
I did an internet search and came up with something that was just the "ticket". Advertised dimensions are 36" x 60" x 12". It actuallly measures 34" x 55" x 10", hence my use of the "booster" pillows you can see in the photo. This thing is heavy, estimated 30 lbs, and stuffed with shredded high density foam rubber. It certainly does a great job of sonically and visually masking the plasma screen. When we want to watch a movie the BIG pillow serves as nice backrest on the sectional sofa.
My version of the "FuF Pillow" is made of eggplant colored velvet fabric. It costs $87 plus $14 shipping, so officially at $101 total it's just above the $100 limit for this thread but with a different fabric choice it can be delivered for under $100.
Here's a link to the vendor. Nope, I have no connection with them except as a customer:
http://www.beanbagsuperstore.com/foof-floor-pillow-large-velvet.html (http://www.beanbagsuperstore.com/foof-floor-pillow-large-velvet.html)
I've always said that I'd never have a music system that included a TV but I've learned never to say never. This solution looks like a "win/win" from my perspective. Try it yourself startng with some heavy blankets and see if you may want to make an the investment in a practical and flexible solution to the "big screen" problem.
There are cheaper ways of getting this done, but with this solution you get something otherwise useful AND something that does the sonic job VERY well.
Something like this is a good idea, IME. Was auditioning some speaks for my daughter in my two channel TV set up. Had a brain fart and brought in a single GIK panel and stood it front of the TV. Things focused up, got some depth of field. Much better rendition of things.
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I have the Shunyat dark field elevators and it works like wonders, cleaner, more airy, more dynamic and focused sound stage
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John,
I have a friend that claims to hear a difference in speaker cables depending on the color of the insulation on the wire. He has excellent hearing and a very trained ear. He is an honorable man, and I have no doubt that he hears a difference. My hearing is damaged, my ear training is limited, and I really don't hear differences in IC cables, speaker wires, etc. However, there are major differences that I can hear in amplifiers, preamps, sources, and speakers. For me, it would be foolish to spend money on tweeks that I cannot hear. That does not mean that I can speak to what others will hear. Although I suspect that sometimes the audio emperor has no clothes, I also suspect that sometimes he does, and I just can't see them.
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John,
I have a friend that claims to hear a difference in speaker cables depending on the color of the insulation on the wire. He has excellent hearing and a very trained ear. He is an honorable man, and I have no doubt that he hears a difference. My hearing is damaged, my ear training is limited, and I really don't hear differences in IC cables, speaker wires, etc. However, there are major differences that I can hear in amplifiers, preamps, sources, and speakers. For me, it would be foolish to spend money on tweeks that I cannot hear. That does not mean that I can speak to what others will hear. Although I suspect that sometimes the audio emperor has no clothes, I also suspect that sometimes he does, and I just can't see them.
Agree 110%.
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If you can really hear the difference between amps, preamps, speaker cables...or the colour of cable jackets...then you should be able to tell which is which when you don't know what's playing. If you can't do this...I for one will sleep easy on it.
Darren
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What are the dimensions of the blocks? Did you place them directly under the components and on top of the maple platforms? Have you tried mapleshade large brass cones?
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This tweak is something else. It is not your normal tweak. On my analog, I can hear musicians slowing down(when they don't want to). It is an opening on the midrange. When I find something like this(for instance, when I've dialed in anti-skate or VTA), I move onto another area. I guess I should say what it is? I recently got Mapleshade's 4-inch amp stands(no, it's not this) for my Nuforce 8.5V1. I tried putting the amp directly on to it(For those that don't know, there is a difference between the footers used on the 8.02 and the 8.5. I think they got softer.). I then tried Eaglesound's myrtle footers($3 each), and defeating the amp's feet. I then put BSA's small isonodes under the myrtle. Wow! I had music. There is no grain(note: I use Lessloss power cords.). It was like an open window on the midrange. Songs were easy to understand-if you know what I mean. I would guess that this tweak is on par-or better than-all the feet they sell for $300/set. I use 3 feet per side. Most of you have these things lying around. Give it a try. You'll not be disappointed. Note: I have huge brass cones, small brass cones, maple ,and many other isolation devices elsewhere in my system.
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Be carefull if you put IsoNodes directly under an intergrated or an amp - they might melt like mine did. :oops:
The wood blocks in between sounds like the ticket. :thumb:
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For the WLM/Woods speaker cables.....Woods sells their wire in bulk. And they actually have speaker wire too. Check out their catalog.
Has anyone tried their actual speaker cable?
http://www.woods.com/files/04FullLine.pdf (http://www.woods.com/files/04FullLine.pdf)
Bo
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Good find Bo. :thumb:
The bulk stuff interests me the most, although it's hard to beat $9 for 40' of the Yard Master ("WLM") as I've got several runs of it.
Their speaker cable seems to be zip cord, fancy(ish) zip cord, but zip none the less.
I didn't know they sold products under so many names (AC Delco surprises me the most).
Bob
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Added a couple of wall hangings, which provided some reflection break-up. I think they were < $20/each @ Target.
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Regarding the WLM/Woods cable, I can only find the 16 awg green color 100ft verity by Yard Master. Does anyone know if this is the same stuff?
Thank you.
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I'm using the white and tan cables. They appear exactly the same to me. From what I recall, somebody said the green stuff was the same as well.
Bob