"Aging" (and salting) meat

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ctviggen

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"Aging" (and salting) meat
« on: 4 Dec 2009, 06:17 pm »
Alton Brown (of Good Eats) just had a Christmas show where he aged duck in the refrigerator.  He put 1 tablespoon of salt per pound of duck on the duck, then left the duck in the fridge for 3 days.  He then cooks the duck. 

Has anyone aged duck or steaks or other meat in this manner?

I tried the 1tbs/pound of salt, and it seemed to be way too much salt.  Is that a reasonable amount of salt for culinary purposes?

Also, I decided to try a steak like this too, although I put much less salt on the meat.  What's the longest I can age  the steak?

BobM

Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #1 on: 4 Dec 2009, 06:39 pm »
Don't know about this salt method, but here's a link to home aging steaks

http://www.goodcooking.com/steak/dry_aging.htm

Dan Driscoll

Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #2 on: 4 Dec 2009, 06:49 pm »
What Alton demonstrated was koshering, which is a similar to, but not quite the same as dry-aging. I believe he did say that he was koshering the duck, not aging it.

Koshering is a process where large grain salt (e.g., kosher salt) is used to draw out and 'purify' the blood of the animal and is part of Jewish dietary law. IIRC, fowl are excluded from the requirement, so in this case he was koshering the duck solely to reduce the moisture content and dry the skin.

Salting meat for cooking (as opposed to preservation) has become more common recently. I don't recall the name off-hand, but there's a restaurant in the San Francisco area that specializes in salted meats, fish and fowl. The main difference is that the meat is only salted for 2-3 days, then cooked. The salt protects the surface from contamination and draws out a lot of moisture, concentrating the flavor. The surface of the meat must be dried thoroughly and kosher (or rock) salt is used because the grains are too large to dissolve and be absorbed by the meat. If the meat is real salty after koshering then it was too wet when you began.

As for true dry-aging, most restaurants and high end butchers do it for 14-28 days, although some high-end restaurants will age some of their beef as long as 40 days. However, that is under rigidly controlled conditions and the meat is inspected daily. Also, long aging is generally done with primal or sub-primal cuts, rather than individual roasts.

Steaks cannot be dry-aged, the surface area to mass ratio is far too high. Roasts or larger pieces are aged, then trimmed and the steak is cut from the trimmed roast.

ctviggen

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Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #3 on: 4 Dec 2009, 06:53 pm »
Thanks for the replies.  So, I'm basically salting the steaks I have and koshering the duck.  He did say he was koshering the duck.  I'll have to redo this with some large pieces of beef for the dry aging.

As for the salt for the duck, I added about 4 tbs instead of 6 tbs.  Do you think I should add more salt?

Dan Driscoll

Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #4 on: 4 Dec 2009, 07:40 pm »
As for the salt for the duck, I added about 4 tbs instead of 6 tbs.  Do you think I should add more salt?

Yes. Never skimp on the salt, it's better to use too much than not enough. Keep in mind that it is not supposed to be absorbed into the meat and you're going to brush it off before cooking.

ctviggen

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Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #5 on: 4 Dec 2009, 07:50 pm »
Thanks.  I think I need to re-watch that episode again!

Rob Babcock

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Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #6 on: 5 Dec 2009, 07:25 am »
Don't worry about getting too much salt.  You can brush it off or rinse it off. 

JackD201

Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #7 on: 5 Dec 2009, 07:48 am »
Dry bird skin makes for crispy bird skin  :thumb: Go for it!!!  aa aa

ctviggen

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Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #8 on: 5 Dec 2009, 12:05 pm »
Thanks for the comments. 

Well, I watched that part of the episode again, and he doesn't say anything about drying the skin.  I have added a bit more salt, and will let you know what happens.

Unfortunately, my attempt at also salting and drying steaks will likely end badly!

Syrah

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Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #9 on: 5 Dec 2009, 01:30 pm »
This sounds like duck "confit".  It is French for "candied", but really it means preserved.  Duck legs are cured in salt, then slow poached in duck fat, then stored and aged in the cold duck fat for up to a couple of months.

The result is delicious.  It does remain pretty salty, which is why it's typically used in dishes that could use some salt, like Cassoulet (a French bean stew) where duck or goose confit plays a staring role - along with lots of yummy fat.  Mmm... fat.

Not to be attempted with chicken for the same reason you can have duck breasts pink but not chicken.  I think it has something to do with the acid levels in the meat keeping nasties at bay.

gonefishin

Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #10 on: 5 Dec 2009, 01:55 pm »
   Duck confit is the first thing I thought of when reading the original posters question.  It's a great Christmas dish  :scratch:  Who am I kidding?  It's great anytime  :drool:

   dan

Dan Driscoll

Re: "Aging" (and salting) meat
« Reply #11 on: 6 Dec 2009, 10:21 pm »
Well, I watched that part of the episode again, and he doesn't say anything about drying the skin.  I have added a bit more salt, and will let you know what happens.

Watch again ;)

He indicates that as well as improving flavor, this process helps create crispy skin. It has to be dry to be crispy.