[Wayner]

Today, the VPI HW-19 JR. got put back into action. I did the usual check-ups. Mine is equipped with an AudioQuest PT-6. I had noticed that the counterweight assembly was a bit loose, and in fact, came off in my hand from the counterweight shaft. There is a screw in the back that goes through a rubber tube. If the screw has backed out a bit, the rubber tube will not grab the inside of the counterweight tube assembly. The fix is to tighten the screw going through the rubber tube. This will make the tube "buldge" a bit, making it grab the counterweight tube firmer.

The other comments about the AQ tonearm is that it is a heavy beast and perhaps would be happier with cartridges with a smaller compliance rating. My AT440MLa has a rating of 10 and seems to be a good marriage for it. One last thing is that my Anti-skating Calibration Disc (ACT), has proven to me at least, that the AQ's antiskating control is spot on. I have the VTF at 1.5 grams and when the antiskating was set to 1.5 and the stylus was set on the ACT, it stayed right on the spot, in fact it stayed where ever I put it.

For the VPI itself, I find the platter tends to get oil stains and the only thing that will clean it is rubbing alcohol. The spindle can be easily popped out of the platter by holding the platter face down and gently wrap rap the threaded end of the spindle on a block of wood or something and it will pop out. It should be cleaned and oiled once a year, At least that is my program.

To correctly reseat the spindle into the platter, you will notice that the shaft has a Morse tapper as does the platter itself. This is where the threaded clamping dics comes into play. Insert the spindle into the bottom of the platter and from the top, install the clamp, washer and threaded nut and finish drawing the spindle into the platter, turning the nut until it's tight. This will help keep the spindle perpendicular to the platter. It may take a couple of attempts, but when your done, there should be virtually now platter wobble on the spindle as it goes around.

I use Slick 50 on the platter shaft for lub and if I feel like it, I talc the belt.

Wayner

[hotrod]

hey Wayner,
 AT specs their compliance at 100Hz,at 10Hz it would be more like 18-20 not 10.Even at those figures I always have best results running all my carts on heavy arms(18-35 grams).Now if we are talking about some of the old Shures and such with compliance figures in the 40-50 range that is a different story.
 Besides,do we really know how the manufacture comes up with these compliance figures.I dont trust that they do.I would rather measure resonance with a test record(HHN).doing this I found that a cart that should not work at all in a heavy 12'' arm still falls in the 9-12hz range when using the test record.Real world results are what matters to me,not some ficticious number.
 OMR

[Wayner]

At any rate, it's a lighter cartridge then many. My spec sheet says 10 with no frequency stipulations. I don't put much faith on that anyway. It's all about total arm mass and how it relates to the total resonance frequency.  I also trashed my stylus this morning, which really pissed me off. Now I'm down to 2 replacements.

So I went looking for a couple of replacements. $179 at several stops, what the Hell? I only paid $99 for the whole cartridge a couple of years ago. So, LPGEAR had them for $119, so I bought 2 of them. I think I'm not going to recommend the AT440MLa anymore, too much demand = price increase.

This is one reason I think you guys that spend money like water on expensive cartridges are nuts. I can see that maintenance for 9 tables is going to come to a scretchin' halt right now.

I have a Longhorn Green and Longhorn Gold1 going, and 6 AT440MLa's going. Most in new or barely used condition, except for the Technics SL1200MKII. Hopefully, 4 stylus will keep me going for a few more years.

[DaveyW]

I also trashed my stylus this morning, which really pissed me off.

Bummer! It's one if the risks of tinkering - We've all been there.

Is the cantilever bent or sheared off?
If the latter, you could try grafting it back together with an internal splint and a spot of glue.
I've successfully resurrected a good cart doing this.
If you just want something to keep one of your decks in play then it might be worth a shot.
I could post up some pics if you're interested.

Cheers
Dave

[Wayner]

I bent it. The tonearm went flying and I thought it was locked down while I was working on the counterweight issue. My eyesight isn't that good and I have Hereditary Neuropathy so working on stuff that small is an issue with body parts. The mind is willing, the hands are not.

I guess if you can show me how to try an "undo" time, that might be interesting. I'll retrieve it from the garbage can.

Wayner 

[DaveyW]

Just opened up this new thread

Hope it's of interest,
Cheers
Dave

[BaMorin]

I bent it. The tonearm went flying and I thought it was locked down while I was working on the counterweight issue. My eyesight isn't that good and I have Hereditary Neuropathy so working on stuff that small is an issue with body parts. The mind is willing, the hands are not.

I guess if you can show me how to try an "undo" time, that might be interesting. I'll retrieve it from the garbage can.

Wayner 

There are suppliments that will help with that

e-mail me

BaMorin@AOL.com

[rcag_ils]

The spindle can be easily popped out of the platter by holding the platter face down and gently wrap the threaded end of the spindle on a block of wood or something and it will pop out. It should be cleaned and oiled once a year, At least that is my program.

How do you wrap the spindle on a block of wood, and why would you want to oil beteen the platter and the spindle?

[Sarchi]

I had the 440ml for a while in my office system, I recall it has a very high-compliance suspension.  I used an ultra low-mass arm (Grace 707) which was a good match, at least as far as compliance-vtf-cartridge life.

FWIW, I`m now firmly in the camp that believes the Ortofon 2M Red is probably the best 100 bucks you can spend in hi-fi.  The midrange isn`t as glorious as a DL103, but this cart is fast, articulate, and very, very musical.  Just amazing for the money.

[BaMorin]

How do you wrap the spindle on a block of wood, and why would you want to oil beteen the platter and the spindle?

I believe Wayne was refering to the spindle being oiled.

[steve k]

I'm in a similar mode, Wayner. Just installed a TNT 3.3 platter on my Junior and reinstalled my Grado Refence Sonata. The sound is glorious--much more weight, bass and quiet background than my MKIII platter. Well worth the investment. I was using the Ortofon 2M Red also but it was just a tad too bright in my system (maggies' ribbons can be unforgiving in the high end if the source is bright to begin with). As much as I liked the Red's neutrality, extension and evenness, I missed the warmth and midrange of the Grado. I agree, the 2M is a real deal at the price and if my system were on the warmer side, I'd be happy with it. I'm consistently tickled with the ability to upgrade the junior and the improvement each tweak brings to the sound.
steve

[orthobiz]

Just installed a TNT 3.3 platter on my Junior and reinstalled my Grado Refence Sonata.
steve

Any hum? I have the same cart on my 19 MkIII.

Paul

[steve k]

No none at all. You?

[orthobiz]

No none at all. You?

Yes. Less when I got a SAMA. Less when I decreased the voltage on the SAMA. Less when I got a super platter, but still more than my Linn. Tolerable.

Paul

[rcag_ils]

The spindle can be easily popped out of the platter by holding the platter face down and gently wrap the threaded end of the spindle on a block of wood or something and it will pop out.

but still, how do you wrap the spindle on a block of wood?

[Wayner]

You can rap on your coffee table if you want to. This is something I used to jar the shaft out of the platter. You can use a rubber mallet if you want, but remember, the shaft may go flying when it comes out. Holding the platter upside down and taping the top of the shaft (which is now under the platter) will give you a bit more of controlled release, just so things don't go flying. The block of wood is used to prevent damage to what-ever surface you are working on.

 

[rcag_ils]

If I used a rubber mallet, which I think would be easier on the spindle, I would have to swing the rubber mallet up from the bottom to hit the threaded side of the spindle, a second person would be needed to hang on to the platter while I am doing this. Depending on how tight the spindle is sitting in the platter, potential for scratching the platter is high.

I need to get the spindle out so I can try it on my other platter. I may have to cough up some cash to buy a separate spindle from VPI.

[Letitroll98]

I still can't figure out how you wrap a piece of hard wood around a steel spindle.  Maybe you could wrap some paper around it.  After you do that maybe you could rap on the spindle to loosen it.  Or maybe you guys don't want to ever use the word rap cause it might be close to listening to rap, which if is the case, I fully support you in your efforts to rid the world of rap.  Can you wrap your mind around that?

[rcag_ils]

I still can't figure out how you wrap a piece of hard wood around a steel spindle.

That's what I thought initially, how in the heck do you wrap wood on steel  . Then I thought since one end of the spindle is threaded, so I assume what he meant by wrapping is actually mean by drilling a hole on a piece of wood, then screw the threaded end of the spindle in it, but that seems to be too much work.

Still  about the wrap on the coffee table part.

[Wayner]

I'm an engineer, not a speller. Wrap, rap would be better. Sorry to confuse you.

Wayner