My Capacitor comparisons: Mundorfs, VCap, Sonicap Platinum, Auricap, etc

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Tyson

Jupiter .22 uF Copper Foil Wax Paper caps came yesterday.  Got them installed today.  Even with no break in I can say they are already better than the 10uF Clarity Cap MR's they replaced.  Of course using the .22uF value also let me remove the .015uF teflon caps I had on the inputs of the amp.  So I was correct - going to a smaller, better quality cap and removing an extra cap from the signal path all conspired to get quite a bit better sound.  Nice.

Tomy2Tone

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Jupiter .22 uF Copper Foil Wax Paper caps came yesterday.  Got them installed today.  Even with no break in I can say they are already better than the 10uF Clarity Cap MR's they replaced.  Of course using the .22uF value also let me remove the .015uF teflon caps I had on the inputs of the amp.  So I was correct - going to a smaller, better quality cap and removing an extra cap from the signal path all conspired to get quite a bit better sound.  Nice.

I know with more time you'll have a better handle on the Jupiters, but can you try and describe them vs the MR's?  I've had MR's before on another set of speakers and liked them but I have V-caps now on my current set. The thought of changing to Jupiters(if possible) is on my mind...

jtwrace

Jupiter .22 uF Copper Foil Wax Paper caps came yesterday.  Got them installed today.  Even with no break in I can say they are already better than the 10uF Clarity Cap MR's they replaced.  Of course using the .22uF value also let me remove the .015uF teflon caps I had on the inputs of the amp.  So I was correct - going to a smaller, better quality cap and removing an extra cap from the signal path all conspired to get quite a bit better sound.  Nice.
What were the measured difference of the values? 

Hugh

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    • Angel City Audio
Jupiter .22 uF Copper Foil Wax Paper caps came yesterday.  Got them installed today.  Even with no break in I can say they are already better than the 10uF Clarity Cap MR's they replaced.  Of course using the .22uF value also let me remove the .015uF teflon caps I had on the inputs of the amp.  So I was correct - going to a smaller, better quality cap and removing an extra cap from the signal path all conspired to get quite a bit better sound.  Nice.

That's why we use Jupiter in our crossovers.

Tyson

What were the measured difference of the values? 

Nelson uses 10uF coupling caps on the input board on the BA3, which gives full range response.  I had 10uF Clarity Caps in there for that reason.  But my amp only drives the midrange drivers on my speakers, so I had a .015 teflon cap on the input of the amp to limit bass below 200hz.  When I swapped the .22 uF Jupiters for the 10uF Clarity Caps, the input board itself would limit bass below 150hz.  So I was able to remove the .015uF teflon caps on the inputs. 

Does this answer your question, or were you asking something else?

Tyson

I know with more time you'll have a better handle on the Jupiters, but can you try and describe them vs the MR's?  I've had MR's before on another set of speakers and liked them but I have V-caps now on my current set. The thought of changing to Jupiters(if possible) is on my mind...

Just sound more real.  I suspect it's a combo of using actual copper vs aluminum and tin foil, but even more importantly using good methods of vibration damping/control, i.e. the paper and wax.  I recently switched inductors to the Jantzen copper/wax and noticed a similar leap in realism. 

It makes me sad though, because now I am going to want to eventually change the caps in my speakers to Jupiters and that will not be cheap AT ALL.  Sigh.  Haha, I'm not really sad, just joking.  I'm actually very happy to have my amp sounding so awesome, and I'm even glad to know that my speakers are not yet at their peak sound yet either, they can also be improved.  Just need to save up some $$....

jtwrace

Does this answer your question, or were you asking something else?
Did you use an L/C/R meter to make sure you were replacing the cap value with a direct replacement so you're not being fooled in the sonic department b/c you're actually changing the value?  It's a common mistake...

Tyson

Did you use an L/C/R meter to make sure you were replacing the cap value with a direct replacement so you're not being fooled in the sonic department b/c you're actually changing the value?  It's a common mistake...

I think you missed my point that I am deliberately using a different sized cap than the original one.  The replacement cap is a different value than the original cap and that's by design.

jtwrace

I think you missed my point that I am deliberately using a different sized cap than the original one.  The replacement cap is a different value than the original cap and that's by design.
Then how can you say it sounds better due to the cap?   :scratch:   Changing two variables...

Tyson

That's exactly what I said - I changed a few things at once and I'm pretty sure that all of them together added up to the change I'm hearing.  If pressed I'd even go so far to say that being able to remove the .015uF teflon cap from the input was probably the biggest change factor. 

To be perfectly fair I'd have to buy a pair of .22uF Clarity MR caps and swap them in for the .22uF Jupiter caps.  But that's pretty wasteful from the $$ standpoint.  However if anyone reading this thread wants to send me a .22uF Clarity Cap MR I'd be more than happy to do the comparison in my system.

I probably should also quantify the level of changes I'm talking about here - swapping out parts makes a difference, but no where near the same level of improvement of moving to a house with a dedicated audio room.  And I'm also in the process of putting in more room treatments, which also have a larger impact than part swapping.  As always, I recommend people get their room set up well before messing with any of this other stuff.