[john1970]

To all VMPSers,

This afternoon I ordered 4 pieces of Black Hole 5 from Brian.  I have standard lite oak cabinets and am hopeful that someone can give their advice on how and where to install into the speaker.

My plans were to:

1) Line the side baffles of the bottom woofer cabinet with the material (this should use up most of it).
2) In the future, line the side baffles of the top mid-bass woofer.

Detailed installation instruction would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

John

[john1970]

Has no one else on this forum attempted this or is it so straight forward that I need not worry?

Thank you,

John

[john1970]

If you ordered the standard (non MLS) cabinet, then you would be wise to get some 1" dowel at Lowes and use them as cabinet bracing before you install the BH5.  This is a simple mod.  Put them "side to side" and "front to back" just below the upper woofer and the same place (just above) the lower woofer opening.  Cut them a 1/16" to long and the pressure will hold them in, but hot glue them in just to be sure.  If you do a search here, you can find more info.  The MLS cabinets now come braced.

Best of luck with the BH5, it should be a relatively easy install around the middle of the cabinet, and near the upper woofer.  Near the lower woofer there are all sorts of XO parts and wires to deal with.

See: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=8389.0

Marbles,

Thank you for the info.  If it arrives this weekend I will tackle the upper (mid-bass) driver first.  Should I lay the speaker down to to this or can I perform it with the speaker standing up?  I would obviously prefer not laying the speaker down.

Thanks,

John

[warnerwh]

John: You should use alot of pressure on the BH5. Like Marbles said, lay them down. It's easy enough to do. I'm just a little guy and had no problem lifting them up. If you have any back problems you may get some help.

It appears Marbles suggested the same thing I just did in a pm. All this stuff is relatively easy John. If you can handle a screw driver and be careful you should be alright.

[John Casler]

Has no one else on this forum attempted this or is it so straight forward that I need not worry?

Thank you,

John

Hi John,

I would check with Brian and simply ask him where to put the sheets.

That said, I have not done it myself, nor opened up a cabinet that has it done.

BH5 is "self adhesive" and has a backing that must be removed.  For it to adhere properly the surface must be clean, and dry and dust free.

Step one would be to open the cabinets.

I too suggest you lie them down on their backs.

Remove the top woofer by placing the cabinet "on its side" and removing all the screws.  Gently tilt the cabinet slightly, as if you were going to place the woofer face down (it is best if you have a helper)  The woofer should then be able to be gently dislodged from the adhesive gasket.  Try not to damage the gasket.

Be prepared for the woofer to be "QUITE" heavy.  Make sure and support the woofer so it does not fall and stretch or break any of the connections.

Take your time, and don't rush.

When the woofer "breaks free" support it so that you can remove the the leads, making sure to mark which lead goes to which connection.  If it is clipped on, simply unclip it.  If it is soldered, snip it as close to the connection as possible and remove the woofer.

Once this is accomplished carefully remove the woofer place it in a safe place.

Then remove all the fiberfill stuffing.  If you have sensitive skin, you might want to use gloves for that purpose.

Then move to the bottom of the speaker and remove the base, so you can get at the Passive Radiator.  Remove all the screws and remove the PR.

Also remove all the fiber fill.

Then take a vacuuming cleaner and vacuuming any and all dust from the Soundcoat and Fiberfill on the walls of the speaker.  Do this with great care and use great caution NEVER to get the vacuuming close to the FST or "bye bye" ribbon

Vacuum the walls clean, assess where you will place the BH5, cut to fit if necessary, and remove the adhesive backing and carefully place the sheets in place.

Apply pressure to make sure the adhesive has made complete and full contact, re fill the cabinet with the Fiberfill Stuffing, replace the drivers (reversing the removal process)

Make sure all driver gaskets are well sealed, and screws are "tight" but do not over tighten, or strip the wood.

Tilt the speakers back up, and "fire when ready".

[john1970]

To everyone,

Thank you for the advice especially John Casler for the step by step instructions.  This sounds like a good project to do during a long labor day weekend. 

The only modifications that I am going to make are:

1) Instead of vacuuming the cabinets I am going to use a tac cloth.  Easier and less likely to damage any xover components. 

2) Also, I might leave the cabinets in their upright position.  I can easily move the cabinets, but I guess that I am concerned about damaging the pedestal base during moving.  Although once the speakers were on their back this would be the preferred position.  I'll have to think about this one...


Thank you again,

John

[Bob Wilcox]

I would not recommend performing this with the speakers upright. It is too easy to move them and if they tip you can have a disaster.

My RM-40s are on carpet. When I need to lay them down, I disconnect the speaker wires and stand behind them. I grab them on both sides and use a twisting/slight rocking motion to move them well out into the room. Once there is enough room, I grab them near the top, gently pivot them back and slowly walk backwards and lower them down to the carpet.

If turning them on their side, it is best to have a helper at the other end - also for raising them back up. The tough part is getting the top end up a few inches.  Then you can get some leverage. I have the helper pull the base lip towards the floor until I can get the top end up.

Good luck.

Bob

[john1970]

Bob,

Fair enough, after thinking about it for a few minutes setting the speaker down makes the most sense. Looks like I'll be doing some speaker modifications over the labor day weekend.

Thank you,

John

[Corbin Johnson]

John,

How did your project go and how does it sound?  I finally received my RM40 CDwaveguides, Blackhole 5 and dehorning kit.  I'll be tackling this same project tonight.  I think I'll also do the dowels since everything will be open.  If you have any tips, please let me know.  I'll send you a PM.

Corbin

[Brian Cheney]

Most of the BH5 should attach to the side baffles in the centerof the cabinet.  Good access is provided by taking out top and bottom woofers and fiberglass.  Cut the sheets with sturdy scissors, peel off backing, and apply.

[john1970]

Corbin,

I actually had VMPS do a MLS cabinet upgrade and other modifications on my RM40s.  The original stock cabinets had several cosmetic flaws so I wanted a nicer looking cabinet.  Needless to say, I got every upgrade that was available (Supermax OXO, TRT caps, SR71 treatment, etc.).  The new RM40s are absolutely amazing a huge improvement over the older versions.

Best,

John

[Corbin Johnson]

John,

Thanks for the reply.  The Blackhole was very easy to install based on Brian's recommendation by phone to install it on the sides of the middle of the cabinet by the mid panel enclosure.  I also installed the wood dowels which were more of a challenge, cutting them to the correct dimension to firmly wedge in place.  All total, it took me about four hours to install the Blackhole 5, wood dowels, new coil for the CDWG's and dehorn the tweeter (three hours for first speaker, 1 hour for second).  I probably could have installed just the Blackhole 5 in less than half the time.

The upgrades sound fantastic.  The waveguides widen the soundstage side to side and front to back as advertised, the dehorned tweeter is smoother, but the most noticeabe improvement to me with my vintage cabinet RM40's is the bass is much tighter.  Sorry to say, I'll never know if the bass improvement is this due to the dowels, Blackhole 5, CDWG's, or all the above.

Another major plus to the CDWG's is I now have speakers not only sound world class, but look world class.  It was worth waiting for the MLS waveguides.

Corbin