[rollo]

  Hey Vinnie Rollo here. Vinnie I have two Gary Dodd preamps that use a 12V battery. Would the Mini suffice ? For me the whole battery thing is a royal PITA. Charging battery life etc.
  The leads from the preamp are pressure tabs that fit over the battery leads. The connector at the preamp is a push in turn and lock type.


thanks vinnie
charles

[jtwrace]

  Hey Vinnie Rollo here. Vinnie I have two Gary Dodd preamps that use a 12V battery. Would the Mini suffice ? For me the whole battery thing is a royal PITA. Charging battery life etc.
  The leads from the preamp are pressure tabs that fit over the battery leads. The connector at the preamp is a push in turn and lock type.


thanks vinnie
charles

I can't remember what the amperage draw is.  The connector that's on the back of the preamp should be the Neutrik PowerCon IIRC.  Shouldn't be an issue. 

[Vinnie R.]

  Hey Vinnie Rollo here. Vinnie I have two Gary Dodd preamps that use a 12V battery. Would the Mini suffice ? For me the whole battery thing is a royal PITA. Charging battery life etc.
  The leads from the preamp are pressure tabs that fit over the battery leads. The connector at the preamp is a push in turn and lock type.

thanks vinnie
charles

Hi Charles,

Yes, the MINI will work fine for this.

Vinnie

[rollo]

I can't remember what the amperage draw is.  The connector that's on the back of the preamp should be the Neutrik PowerCon IIRC.  Shouldn't be an issue.

 Thanks Jason I just had a brain fart remembering the connector name. Thanks Vinnie. Did you hear that Dodd owners. Good news. I'm sure Gary would approve. Rest in peace Gary.


charles

[jtwrace]

Thanks Jason I just had a brain fart remembering the connector name. Thanks Vinnie. Did you hear that Dodd owners. Good news. I'm sure Gary would approve. Rest in peace Gary.


charles

You going to pre-order one?  I'd be curious to know what you think.

[sonicxtc]

Does anyone know if the MINI set to 12 volt can power a NUC or NUC-like computer?
A "typical" NUC runs on a 19 volt power supply, however internally they step down to 12 volts.
I'm not sure, but I think they only draw about 10 watts.

I'm thinking of something like this one [below], however if I could find a fanless unit, that would be ideal. I don't know a NUC's noise level. [If it's like my 2011 mac, well, that's barely audible so I don't need fanless].

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-NUC-NUC6i3SYH-BOXNUC6I3SYH-Silver-Black/dp/B018NSAPIM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480504855&sr=8-1&keywords=nuc+i3+skylake
EDIT: Just found this re: NUC6i3SYH above "Using a Killawatt to measure, Idle is 8 watts, active is 13 watts. 120 VAC. Samsung 850 EVO Series 120GB SATA III 6Gb/s 2.5" Internal SSD"

I want the NUC (or mini PC) to test a new audio OS and it only uses 5% CPU on an intel i3. Suggestions are welcome. Thank you.

[rollo]

You going to pre-order one?  I'd be curious to know what you think.

  Looks like a plunge is in order. 

charles

[jtwrace]

  Looks like a plunge is in order. 

charles

Sweet!  Get the order in while the pre-order price is still in effect.   

[sonicxtc]

What cables/adapters come with the Ultracap? Are there cables suitable to feed an intel NUC?
This relates to the question posted earlier. Thanks.

[jtwrace]

What cables/adapters come with the Ultracap? Are there cables suitable to feed an intel NUC?
This relates to the question posted earlier. Thanks.

Yes, Vinnie will make whatever cable and connector is required for your device.  Not an issue. 

[Vinnie R.]

Does anyone know if the MINI set to 12 volt can power a NUC or NUC-like computer?
A "typical" NUC runs on a 19 volt power supply, however internally they step down to 12 volts.
I'm not sure, but I think they only draw about 10 watts.

Hi sonicxtc,

If this is the case, you are much better off bypassing the 19V to 12V step down (most likely a noisy switch mode DC-DC converter)
and feeding 12Vdc from the MINI directly.  You will need to contact the manufacturer about doing so and hopefully they can
assist.

I am not familiar with NUC or NUC-like boards.  You will need to research the voltage / current draw (at the DC input).

What cables/adapters come with the Ultracap? Are there cables suitable to feed an intel NUC?
This relates to the question posted earlier. Thanks.

MINI does not come with a cable (just binding posts to connect to), so you can either make your own cable, or order
one from us (you specify in an email the length and the required plug to your device).

From our website:

– We also offer custom-made power cables to connect between MINI and your product (For example: 5.5mm / 2.5mm barrel plug, 3 foot long).  Pricing on the cables: $100 ea. (up to 6 foot length).

http://www.vinnierossi.com/mini/

Sweet!  Get the order in while the pre-order price is still in effect.   

Yes - today is the last day MINI will be offered at the pre-order price.

Vinnie

[jtwrace]

Hi sonicxtc,

If this is the case, you are much better off bypassing the 19V to 12V step down (most likely a noisy switch mode DC-DC converter)
and feeding 12Vdc from the MINI directly.  You will need to contact the manufacturer about doing so and hopefully they can
assist.

I am not familiar with NUC or NUC-like boards.  You will need to research the voltage / current draw (at the DC input).

Vinnie

According to this page, 12Vdc is fine.  https://communities.intel.com/thread/49219  I have a friend that is going to power one with 12Vdc so I'll ask him how it's going. 

[Vinnie R.]

All,

I'm working around the clock building MINI's 

- Today I'll be installing Belleson super-regulators and setting output voltage.
- Tomorrow the internal microcontroller will be programmed (based on output voltage) and
testing under load begins.
- Shipping begins Friday and I hope to have ALL the pre-orders shipped by mid-December.

Here is a quick pic from my phone:




1) The large E-I core transformer that you see is for the linear charging circuit (which charges the two banks of ultracapacitors).

2) The heatsink on the top of the red board is for the constant-current charging of the linear regulated voltage feed.

3) Microchip on the red board is programmed to run the patent-pending MINI PURE-DC-4EVR (controls the silent switching of the cap banks, monitors cap bank voltage, etc.)

4) Simple on/off via a red-illuminated push-button switch on the front panel (and the "pre-charge" time for the supply when you first plug it into AC power is only approx. 60 seconds).

5) The Belleson SPVR-X linear super-regulators will be attached to the rear next (large heat sink on the back) and offer extremely low noise and output impedance over a wide frequency range.  I believe they are actually unrivaled in this regard (or among the very best super-regulators available at this level of output current!).  Belleson promised me o'scope plots for those interested in some performance measurements. 

The Belleson SPVR-X has no problem with 2.5A continuous output current, and 5A peaks.

6) For those who ordered our custom cable, here is a pic of what it will look like (this one is 3-feet, for a microRendu):



Gold-plated banana plugs that mate with MINI's output posts (if you are making your own cable, you can also
use spades or bare wire).

7) 5-year warranty (Parts & Labor)

That's it for now - back to building!

Vinnie

PS:  Pre-ordering ends in < 9 hours 

[jtwrace]

Sweet!  Wonder which one of those is mine.   

Looking forward to trying it.   

[anicca]

Thanks for all your work Vinnie.  You da man.  Really looking forward to trying mine with the microRendu.

[Duke40]

<snip>

6) For those who ordered our custom cable, here is a pic of what it will look like (this one is 3-feet, for a microRendu):



Gold-plated banana plugs that mate with MINI's output posts

<snip>

Hi Vinnie,


Question 1 ...

Quick question about the custom cable, if I plug red cable's banana plug to red on the MINI's output post (and similar for the black connection) ... this will ensure that I get Center positive +

which my Auralic Aries requires ?


Question 2 ...

In the future if I decide to use my MINI on a device which requires Center negative - then I would transpose the connection by plug red cable's banana plug to black on the MINI's output post ?   I don't have any Center negative - gear (and it seems to much less common), though thought I would just check.


Question 3 ...

DC outputs on various DC power devices seem to use different types, like XLR, DC , GX16, and for the MINI it has Banana/Spade.  Is there a technical reason for using Banana/Spade on the MINI output?  Like lower impedance ? I don't mind Banana/Spade (easier for me to solder when I do DIY, I find DC plugs more difficult, so at least one end of the cable will be easier for me to solder).


Thanks for the progress updates, really looking forward to the MINI.

John

[Vinnie R.]

Hi John,

Question 1 ...

Quick question about the custom cable, if I plug red cable's banana plug to red on the MINI's output post (and similar for the black connection) ... this will ensure that I get Center positive +

which my Auralic Aries requires ?

This is correct!  [Unless you specify center pin negative (which is indeed rare), the cable will be wired for center pin positive]

Question 2 ...

In the future if I decide to use my MINI on a device which requires Center negative - then I would transpose the connection by plug red cable's banana plug to black on the MINI's output post ?   I don't have any Center negative - gear (and it seems to much less common), though thought I would just check.

I do NOT recommend you do this.  If a center pin negative cable is needed, please specify this when ordering a cable and I will
make the center pin negative when I build the cable.  Always connect Red to Red, and Black to Black when connecting the cable to the MINI.  Otherwise, it can get confusing and could lead to a mistake, followed by damage (and possibly smoke)! 

Question 3 ...

DC outputs on various DC power devices seem to use different types, like XLR, DC , GX16, and for the MINI it has Banana/Spade.  Is there a technical reason for using Banana/Spade on the MINI output?  Like lower impedance ? I don't mind Banana/Spade (easier for me to solder when I do DIY, I find DC plugs more difficult, so at least one end of the cable will be easier for me to solder).

I decided to use the RED / BLACK binding posts for a few reasons:

1) It's easy for someone to connect their own cable to (even with bare wire connections)

2) There is very little chance of error going with RED = (+), and BLACK = ( - ). 

3) Different connections can be used (banana, spade, bare wire or pins)

4) It is what is commonly found on benchtop power supplies.

If I used XLR or some circular connector with a certain pin-out, and one wanted to make their own cable, there is
more of a chance there would be a mistake made when wiring it.

Technically, the binding posts are rated for over 10 amps and I suppose they have less chance of wearing out over
time than something like a barrel plug.  The MINI is rugged! 

Best regards,

Vinnie

[paul79]

Hey Vinnie,
Can I run both a NAS and a Router off one MINI? The NAS is loaded with 2 SSD's, and barely pulls 300mA, and almost an amp at start up. The router less than that.

Pros cons of running both off one rail? Since these are both synchronous components, maybe it is ok to share the rail?

Thanks
Paul

[Vinnie R.]

Hey Vinnie,
Can I run both a NAS and a Router off one MINI? The NAS is loaded with 2 SSD's, and barely pulls 300mA, and almost an amp at start up. The router less than that.

Pros cons of running both off one rail? Since these are both synchronous components, maybe it is ok to share the rail?

Thanks
Paul

Hi Paul,

Excellent question! 

You certainly can as long as:

1) Both devices run on the same voltage
2) The combined current draw does not exceed the 2.5A continuous / 5A peak rating of MINI.

Pros:

a.  Using only one MINI means only one box
b.  Less expensive than buying two

Cons:

a.  There is potential (no pun intended ) that one device can 'pollute' the other, as noise at the power input of one device could feed back through the cable and into the cable of another device. 

I'm thinking that NAS and Routers have built-in DC/DC converters and are not designed to 'audiophile spec' - so it is very possible
that you will get better results giving them their own dedicated power supply.

b.  This is rare, but there are some cases where you wouldn't want the grounds (negative terminal of MINI) to be shared.  For example, if you have a device that has a "virtual ground" circuit and its signal output connects to the other device that shares the MINI, then it is possible to have a short circuit condition. 

If you are not sure about your particular situation, please email me and I'll take a look for you!  It's better to be safe than sorry. 

Vinnie

[jtwrace]

Just got the shipping info for my MINI.