The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #60 on: 22 May 2016, 02:06 am »
Drilling method ideas complete.  Will start drilling tomorrow and mount the Neo10 drivers.



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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #61 on: 22 May 2016, 08:03 pm »
BG Neo10 install has started. Using the Neo10 as it's own template, mark the center of each screw hole with a nail set. Remove the driver and drill the hole with the V-Drill guide. Install the Neo10 gasket and then wrap in Glad Wrap. Use the #4 square drive screws for mounting. Leave the Glad Wrap until all the drivers are installed for protection.

First two drivers installed and 6 more to go for the first side.  This is going to take awhile!




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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #62 on: 23 May 2016, 01:00 am »
Second half of the Neo10 array installed.

Will do the second half install tomorrow and possibly start the second baffle.



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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #63 on: 24 May 2016, 02:18 am »
First Megaliths baffle with 8 - BG Neo10 planars installed. 

Will install the drivers in the second baffle tomorrow, then align the planars in each baffle.  After that attach the speaker cables to the drivers and amps and fire them up.

Getting closer!



S Clark

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #64 on: 24 May 2016, 03:49 am »
Yep. I know that it's a tiny thing, but I notice that the baffles aren't recessed.  I wonder if running a strip of thin wool felt top to bottom and to the edge would make any difference. 

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #65 on: 24 May 2016, 10:31 am »
Scott,
I am using the foam gasket that comes with the Neo10.  I cut out the section where the connectors are to sit flat against the baffle.

I tried felt on the wing of the baffles for the two way planar and it worked well.  Will probably be using it on these as well. Would go on the short baffle side next to the Neo10 and possibly the side that connects to the wing.  Since it will cover the wood, will probably go with colored felt to give it some interest.

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #66 on: 28 May 2016, 02:01 am »
The first baffle is complete!  Now to start the second baffle and make the stabilizing legs.



PDR

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #67 on: 28 May 2016, 04:44 am »
NICE!

Good thing you had that big sub array standing around to lean them up against.... :thumb:

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #68 on: 30 May 2016, 12:10 am »
Second Megalith baffle getting ready for pilot hole drilling and Neo10 installation. 



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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #69 on: 30 May 2016, 06:37 pm »
Four Neo10's installed.  Last four to go.  Then wire up the drivers for testing.

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #70 on: 30 May 2016, 08:19 pm »
Six Neo10's installed and seventh started.   JUST...NEED...TWO...MORE...INSTALLED!   :o



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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #71 on: 30 May 2016, 09:28 pm »
The Megaliths baffles with the BG Neo10's planars are completed.

Next to wire them up with the speaker cables to the amp modules to start measurements.



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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #72 on: 31 May 2016, 07:18 pm »
Triode Wire Labs is custom building the HAL 1 AC power cables for the Megaliths speaker amplifier system. 

First cable is here and sounds great with the balanced input amp modules.  TWL will be building 8 more for the first part of the setup to go with the PI Audio Group BlunderBUSS AC power conditioner.  A total of 21 AC cables will be needed once the BG Neo3-PDR array is added to the Megaliths baffles.  There will be 12 duplex outlets on the BlunderBUSS for amps, and dspMusik digital crossover's linear regulated power supplies.

The UberBUSS and DigiBUSS will be powering the HAL MS-3 Music Server system with the SSD's driving the USB input on the dspMusik at the other side of the listening room.



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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #73 on: 1 Jun 2016, 12:52 pm »
Today is some copper pipe bending to build the stabilizers. 

Will be adding mass to the pipe to act as the counterweight so the speakers can stand vertically at 90 degrees.




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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #74 on: 1 Jun 2016, 07:24 pm »
The copper pipe with the ends hammered closed.  Marked for the bends.

Once bent, add led shot for counterweight and then close the other end to trap the shot. 

Then to drill the holes at 2" on center to attach to the baffles for stability.



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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #75 on: 1 Jun 2016, 08:43 pm »
Angles bent.  Not pretty but ready for lead shot filling.  Then hammer the other end shut and drill mounting holes.



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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #76 on: 3 Jun 2016, 08:15 pm »
Pipe ends bent at 90 degrees for attaching at the base of the baffle.

Next is to cut the pipe to length.  Fill with lead shot to add counterweight and flatten the other end.  Then drill the four mounting holes and attach to the baffle.


 

S Clark

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #77 on: 3 Jun 2016, 09:58 pm »
Well, Rich, if there was any doubt about your sanity, all doubts have been removed!   :thumb:  The Mad Scientist is indeed at work.
« Last Edit: 4 Jun 2016, 12:55 am by S Clark »

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #78 on: 4 Jun 2016, 04:52 am »
There was doubt?

MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!   :D

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Re: The Megaliths open baffle line array speakers
« Reply #79 on: 4 Jun 2016, 02:01 pm »
Went to Lowes and purchased an adjustable pipe cutter. Marked the stabilizer length for keeping the baffle vertical and cut off the excess pipe. Very easy to do after seeing a plumber do it awhile back with that style tool. The pipes, shot and tools cost about $85, so less than $43/stabilizer. Could have used a 1"x2"x8' piece of oak, but I like this look better.

Next add the lead shot to the pipe, seal and flatten the other end for mounting hole drilling.