Klipsch Chorus - Cabinet tuning for the 15" driver, here are the results...

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undertow

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Hi,

I have an old pair of Klipsch Chorus speakers I am cleaning up for somebody. These are original Chorus not Chorus II speakers from the 1990's which used passive radiators not ports.

So these speakers have big cast 15" drivers in them. And they have Qty. 2 x 4" vents cut right thru the baffle with NO port tubing. So essentially its just 1" length x 4" diameter ports on the front see photos.

This cabinet is fairly large, the volume inside is just over 4.7 cuFt... But I assume some of this volume is lost bringing it to just under 4.5 cuFt due to the large Mid-Squawker horn literally takes up a lot of the space from the front to the back of the cabinet where it sits. Plus the 15 has a huge magnet, with large cast solid basket probably making quite a bit more than normal driver displacement.

Anyway this speaker is tuned from the factory claiming 45 hz the chorus II version using a passive radiator is tuned to 39 hz. It has excellent sound, and substantial bass no question. Some people use subs etc.. I turned on a sub with this system, and it really was not necessary, but it does help create a little more ambience and smoothed out sound, plus I assume if the music does have bass heavy parts dropping below that 40 hz the sub is of some benefit.

My question is that with this large of a volume cabinet, the K-48-E / 15" driver, and dual 4" round vents already cut in the baffle why could I not just drop in a 4" diameter plastic port around 4" long that sells for 2 bucks in all the cutouts, and get this driver to drop down a bit further maybe hitting somewhere in the upper 30's at least?

Only reason I ask is if it can be lowered a little, and totally help blend out the need for a sub why not? I have not seen this mentioned or done by Klipsch owners as most end up with the Chorus II models that go slightly lower already with the passive, but I am surprised that in a community like that with all the upgrades, and crazy fan boys nobody thought of this.... Or is there some reason this is a bad idea, and it won't work because of something that I am not thinking of?

See photos I already know any standard size cheap plastic port fits perfectly, because I have one that works and they are sold at parts express, but I don't have 4 of them so before I order I just want to find out from the designers here what I am missing if Klipsch designed them to just use wide open holes, and not port them with some added length to just get them tuned a little lower? You can click spec's tab on the link below as well to verify anymore tech info on these.

http://www.klipsch.com/chorus-floorstanding-speaker/details

Thanks







« Last Edit: 27 Aug 2015, 04:25 pm by undertow »

Nick77

Might touch base with Volti Audio. Does rebuilds for Klipsch.

http://www.voltiaudio.com/


undertow

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Yeah pretty sure Volti probably believes a non-horn loaded 15" in a standard vented cabinet is sacrilege in the first place, and likely never worked with these as he does mostly older heritage folded horn designs like lascala, K-horn etc...

Appreciate it though.

Thanks

Duke

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Lowering the tuning frequency tends to raise the theoretical -3 dB point and make the rolloff rate a bit more gentle, at least initially.  That may or may not be a net improvement, depending on room acoustics and/or the type of amplifier used.   With a lot of boundary reinforcement and/or a low-damping-factor tube amp, you may well see a worthwhile improvement.

No reason why you can't try the ports.  I'd suggest wrapping the baffle-end of the port with electrical tape to get a good friction fit so that you can test it out before committing.

undertow

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Duke,

There will be a wall behind and within 1 ft of the right speaker being in the corner essentially. Yes they are used with tubes across the board - 6550's as the power tube. They rock smooth and hard no problem. Honestly the sub is almost a waste due to the efficiency of these the sub will not kick in much till higher volume levels anyway so if these can tune down a touch more creating an even deeper foundation saving cables, power, and money going sub-less why not?

As for being committed to the ports no worries, zero mods needed, they just interference fit slipping in and out easily. If they test well and seem to have no negative affects I can seal them better just using some speaker tar sealant strips I have to secure nicely long term without damaging the finish.

Thanks for the info!

Duke

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Sounds to me like the ports are likely to be a worthwhile improvement.  Good call!

I'm a big believer in user-adjustable port tuning frequencies.  Because the room has such enormous effect on what's happening in the bass region, it's a roll of the dice whether the speaker designer happens to tune the port optimally for a given room acoustic situation.   

undertow

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the PORTS... Which is what this was all about.

Do they actually go deeper? Probably not by much, but in fact they do "punch" a little harder, and cleaner with more consistent control which they exhibit at much higher volume levels vs. just the directly cut holes in the baffle.

I could not find a single negative using the ports. I think it just helped refine everything

« Last Edit: 29 Sep 2015, 03:02 pm by undertow »