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Alan, these speakers got rave reviews! Some claimed that only AR-3a bettered them and that was because of the bass output.That is what I'm all about. It's not taking vintage gear and making it sound like stuff today, it's restoring it to it's original performance. That is what made it great in the first place, and I'd like to know why. The only way I know how to do that is to restore it to it's original intended condition, or at least as close as I can.If I want ultra performance, I can listen to my Martin Logan speakers or my other new ones. I'll let the other guys try to improve on the old stuff, but odds are, they made them worse. Vintage stuff was created by some of the greatest audio minds on earth, like Henry Kloss, Saul Marantz, Edgar Villchur, David Hafler and even Frank Van Alstine are in the mix. I'm try to restore history, not create my own. I in no way could ever match up to these guys, not for one second.Wayner
Did you get up on the wrong side of the bed today? It's my project, not yours. I thought some people would enjoy seeing the insides of an AR speaker.I guess I can just stop posting.For all the others, this thread has just died. I will no longer post any results of the project with no discuss any conclusions or results.
Once again a "volunteer" you seem to stir the pot and more then one occasion. I suspect that your "stripes" need to be stripped.
i yust call 'em as i see 'em. i wasn't the one w/the rude incendiary post... someone on your thread simply making helpful suggestions - which you can take or leave at your pleasure - and you rip him a new one and act like a child and say you're gonna take your ball and go home so no one can play.i need to "have my stripes stripped"? lol - kinda like the pot calling the kettle black. whatever...
Was that post necessary? Please let it go. I know all too well how Wayner feels, whether those feelings are justified (in your mind) or not.
It's not taking vintage gear and making it sound like stuff today, it's restoring it to it's original performance. That is what made it great in the first place, and I'd like to know why. The only way I know how to do that is to restore it to it's original intended condition, or at least as close as I can.
As I understand the cap voltage problem, it is very important to select a cap that is close (but not under) the operating range the cap will be used in, for them to operate properly. Not only did Frank make this statement, but others like Mike Zuccaro have said this too. The problem wont show up in a formula, but there will be a shift in the desired cut-off frequencies, because the cap will not function (as a formula says it should), in an incorrect voltage application. I had ordered some 20mfd 250 volt caps, but Frank recommended I not use them, instead, he had some 10mfd, 100 volt that would be more appropriate for the cross-over application, using 2 in parallel to get the 20mfd rating the cross-over requires.Wayner
Cabinets and drivers were original and in excellent condition, but I did lightly sand and re oil the cabinets, as I always do with my restoration projects. The only reason I sanded, is because the top has a couple of light white paint spots, and sanding took them out. Unfortunately, when you do sand on these earlier veneer cabinets, you will also discover that the manufacturer used a stain in the oil. I always used Watco medium walnut oil for refinishing. The oil may have to be applied a couple of times, left on over night and buffed out by hand the next day. It's lots of work, but brings out the wood grain quiet well. That is why they call it "hand rubbed finish".I have also had to do minor repair work to the tweeter as the glue on the outside of the surround has let loose from the years of use. That has been re-bonded and also siliconed.Wayner
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