My first GR build

Danny Richie · « **Reply #40 on:** 1 May 2012, 04:02 pm »

Quote

I have a question about the speaker terminals. When I solder the ofc to the terminals, do I simply insert the wire into the eyelet and make contact or should I actually bend the wire to grab onto the terminal?

Don't poke the wire through the hole in the terminal. When you solder the wire to it you want it to be flat against it so that as much surface area is in contact with it as possible.

First tin the terminal by heating it up and feeding solder onto it so that a little pool of solder is there and covers the surface well. Likewise, tin the wire and feed solder on it so that solder covers the surface of the cleanly stripped wire.

When you put the two together first heat the wire with your soldering gun and get it just hot enough that when you place it on the terminal with the soldering gun that it quickly melts the solder on the terminal. Place the wire flat against the terminal then get off of it quickly to let it cool.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #41 on:** 1 May 2012, 04:36 pm »

Thanks Danny. I didn't even think to do that. I'm glad I asked.

daveforshee · « **Reply #42 on:** 2 May 2012, 02:51 am »

So jealous right now! My kit shipped today. This thread is a good resource to newcomers like myself. Thanks for the input, Danny.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #43 on:** 3 May 2012, 06:16 pm »

Danny, this could go here or the sticky crossover thread.

In that sticky thread, you mention to avoid scratching the ofc wire when attaching leads to the negative back to the terminals. I attached some of the positive wires last night, and had lots, LOTS of difficulty avoiding marring up the ofc wire. I couldn't get good contact. So, I have no idea how rookie this mistake is. Do I still avoid scratching this copper? Should I start again and cut off the ends? What is the protocol here?

Thanks,
Ben

Danny Richie · « **Reply #44 on:** 4 May 2012, 05:17 pm »

Quote from: rockdrummer on 3 May 2012, 06:16 pm

Danny, this could go here or the sticky crossover thread.

In that sticky thread, you mention to avoid scratching the ofc wire when attaching leads to the negative back to the terminals. I attached some of the positive wires last night, and had lots, LOTS of difficulty avoiding marring up the ofc wire. I couldn't get good contact. So, I have no idea how rookie this mistake is. Do I still avoid scratching this copper? Should I start again and cut off the ends? What is the protocol here?

Thanks,
Ben

Ben, get a good stripper. I strip this wire all the time and never leave a mark on it. If you are using a stripper then be sure you are using the 16 gauge (not 18 gauge) holes.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #45 on:** 4 May 2012, 05:34 pm »

Stripping the jacket wasn't a problem, I couldn't get the leads wrapped around without scratching the copper. I know I need to start over. I can see scratches from holding the leads and attempting to make good contact.
Sorry, I've been a nuisance of a Not-So-Do-It-Yourselfer.

Ben

cody69 · « **Reply #46 on:** 4 May 2012, 11:24 pm »

Quote

Stripping the jacket wasn't a problem, I couldn't get the leads wrapped around without scratching the copper. I know I need to start over. I can see scratches from holding the leads and attempting to make good contact.
Sorry, I've been a nuisance of a Not-So-Do-It-Yourselfer.

I'm interested in what issues arise with superficial scratches in the OFC wire... I've never given this much thought and not sure if I've made scratches or not. What are the concerns?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #47 on:** 7 May 2012, 01:29 am »

Quote

Stripping the jacket wasn't a problem,

The reason I mention the stripper issue is that some strippers will put a slight cut or scratch in the wire if it cuts a little too deep when stripping.

A slight scratch isn't a problem unless it is scratched in a pattern around the wire like a stripper would cause. This can cause the wire to break if bent on the scratched mark.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #48 on:** 7 May 2012, 04:51 am »

Thanks YET again.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #49 on:** 3 Jun 2012, 03:43 pm »

After a busy end of the school year, I think I have the confidence to start soldering

But it will be fun. I didn't use my negative runs of ofc efficiently. I used one for the tweeter and one for the woofer, all the way to the cup. I have a feeling I should have combined two into one. I have about 2 inches out the back to work with. Oops. Live and learn.

Once I get no rez inside, and have the front and back baffles glued on, I will take more pics and post them.

Here is a question I have. Some I see have tested networks and drivers before assembling the speakers. Seems like that is wise. Should I do that? And if so, is there a better way than by literally hooking up an amped source?

Thanks,
Ben

Danny Richie · « **Reply #50 on:** 3 Jun 2012, 08:15 pm »

Quote

Here is a question I have. Some I see have tested networks and drivers before assembling the speakers. Seems like that is wise. Should I do that? And if so, is there a better way than by literally hooking up an amped source?

You can just send me a pic and I will confirm proper wiring.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #51 on:** 16 Jul 2012, 06:47 pm »

Here is my slow progress. I used water and wood glue to seal the edges. I think that will need to be done again now that I have sanded alot. Down to 220 grit and now to primer.

On a side note, my little 30W soldering iron isn't working for me. I am new to soldering, but I saw the jacket on the practice OFC melting before solder would ever melt. I think I'm doing it right, touch the tinned iron to the leads, then touch the solder to the heated leads, not the iron. I think that was what I read was best. So i'm onto planning on a hotter iron.

Anyway, I'm still learning and having lots of fun.

Ben

Danny Richie · « **Reply #52 on:** 16 Jul 2012, 06:51 pm »

It also helps to melt some solder onto the tip of the soldering gun first.

jcris · « **Reply #53 on:** 16 Jul 2012, 06:53 pm »

I've got a Hako 936. Good temp range, only thing I'd add is a digital read out.
John

Danny Richie · « **Reply #54 on:** 16 Jul 2012, 06:55 pm »

Welcome to AC John.

jcris · « **Reply #55 on:** 16 Jul 2012, 06:58 pm »

Also,
believe it or not try some automotive body filler like bondo on the edges, saves reworking it to get a fine finish
John

rockdrummer · « **Reply #56 on:** 16 Aug 2012, 12:15 am »

Okay, it has been a while. Finished my laundry room with cabinets and other stuff put my speakers off a bit.

I tried practicing with my "not so hot" soldering iron and I was embarrassed with the results. That was another reason I have not been finishing. I don't have good technique, obviously, and needed a better tool. Didn't spend a lot of money, but I got a 140 watt gun and that made it much easier. In a matter of seconds i was done. yay.

Crossovers will be installed, cabs painted with first couple coats of black spray and we'll see how far I get tonight. I will have pics when there is something worth showing.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Ben

rockdrummer · « **Reply #57 on:** 15 Sep 2012, 05:16 pm »

I've learned alot. I made the mistake of trying magnets that seemed strong, but weren't. I have learned what a "strong" neodymium magnet is. Won't make that mistake again. My grill frames were started, changed, added to, changed again and are waiting for paint. I will also need to cut out the edge on the inside of the frame where it rests near the woofer, because I think it will not be tall enough. Easy enough to fix, though.

I used a plain Krylon satin spray paint. I'm happy with the look so far, but even multiple coats wood glue/water didn't seal the ends of the mdf perfectly. I'm happy with the project as my first diy set of speakers, but I'm going to change my plan when i start my brothers XLS encore and sealed servo sub. I'm kinda wondering why I've built for my parents, then my brother, but not me. HMMMM, new model and saving for super v!!!!

This is the crossover from the outside. I am thinking I should have changed my configuration because I will end up having both negative ofc runs attaching to the speaker cup. I didn't know a good way to combine them. I hope that's going to be electronically okay.

Hoping to do final painting on the rest of the cabinets and start the final stages!!

ben

Captainhemo · « **Reply #58 on:** 16 Sep 2012, 04:23 pm »

Looking good Ben. I too have learned a lot from the folks here at AC

Here's a tip from Ron.... for grillmagnets try here
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=13

I used the D44 N52 (1/4 x 1/4) and they work great

-jay

rockdrummer · « **Reply #59 on:** 7 Oct 2012, 03:43 pm »

I'm still very much a rookie with a soldering gun. The amount of ofc that I have out the back wasn't much. I know most people probably combine the two negative leads off the drivers before they get back to the cup, but I didn't know how. I hope having two get to the cup isn't going to need to be changed

Here they are soldered. Okay, hit me with the critiques!

I think the solder joints are supposed to be smooth and I don't consider mine like that.
Let me know your honest thoughts because I want to do this well.
Thanks, gentlemen.

Ben