AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => Cheap and Cheerful HiFi => Topic started by: Rclark on 10 Aug 2011, 05:35 am
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Let's seperate this from the Dodd buffer thread. I'm the list to try one out. Let's have impressions and builds in this thread, I think some build pics and documentation could be very handy for noobs like me.
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First off let me say I have a love-hate relationship with the Optocoupler.
I have tried it as a stand alone system attenuator, and as a replacement pot in the dodd buffer. Without a moments hesitation I can say this thing sounds great. As a stand alone attenuator it was the cleanest sound I have heard in my system. It was lacking a little life but that turns out to be a result of longish interconnects to my amps(across the room). When I replaced the pot in the dodd with the Optocoupler, problems solved. All the life, involvement with the music is there. Just sucks you in. Man the best my system has ever sounded.
you ask whats the other side of the coin? I simply do not like the fact that all components except the LDR's are potted. Same problem with the dodd buffer. I like knowing whats going on.
I think the dodd buffer is a great item also, especially with 6 volt Russian tube (in my system).
When I have time I want to give the Optocoupler a try in my tube preamp.
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Let's seperate this from the Dodd buffer thread. ...
Thanks for starting the Thread. I'll answer as best as I can here...although most of the info are at diyAudio. If I'm allowed to post links here I will.
First off let me say I have a love-hate relationship with the Optocoupler.
...result of longish interconnects to my amps(across the room). ...I simply do not like the fact that all components except the LDR's are potted.
I hope you just hate it for being potted...? :)
It was meant to be diy all the way but actions of some members at diyA looked like they needed a little riddle...sorry to all innocent bystanders.
May we know how long are your interconnects?
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If this was an open source project, I would agree but these circuits are to be protected from an IP point of view. It is astounding that they are available for the DIY market.
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What are "potted" components?
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What are "potted" components?
Components that are completely encapsulated in some kind of sealing resin, usually epoxy. This has been done for years in automotive, aerospace and other industrial applications to protect against moisture, mechanical stress and thermal stress.
It seems to be most often employed in home audio equipment to protect against piracy of circuit designs.
Steve
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High voltage circuits often potted too. (eg electrostatics)
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First off let me say I have a love-hate relationship with the Optocoupler.
I have tried it as a stand alone system attenuator, and as a replacement pot in the dodd buffer. Without a moments hesitation I can say this thing sounds great. As a stand alone attenuator it was the cleanest sound I have heard in my system. It was lacking a little life but that turns out to be a result of longish interconnects to my amps(across the room). When I replaced the pot in the dodd with the Optocoupler, problems solved. All the life, involvement with the music is there. Just sucks you in. Man the best my system has ever sounded.
you ask whats the other side of the coin? I simply do not like the fact that all components except the LDR's are potted. Same problem with the dodd buffer. I like knowing whats going on.
I think the dodd buffer is a great item also, especially with 6 volt Russian tube (in my system).
When I have time I want to give the Optocoupler a try in my tube preamp.
So, did you put it in the buffer, or do you have it in the signal path outside? Any pics?
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Link to the diyaudio thread for those unfamiliar with Warpspeed
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/176847-warpspeed-optocoupler-volume-control.html (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/176847-warpspeed-optocoupler-volume-control.html)
Is there a PCB or parts kit?
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Hi guys,
I have been meaning to start a new thread about this topic but now that has been done :thumb:
It is available as a parts kit from Blues on DIYaudio.
I was one of the first purchasers of the kit. Let's just say I did not take my time with the kit and fried the optocouplers. This is probably putting it gently.
Blues is a really helpful, intelligent, and kind gentleman.
Instead of ordering another kit and worrying about the build I approached him about a completed unit.
I have a 5 month old son (1st child) so time for audio projects seems a distant memory at this point.
I received my completed unit a couple of months ago and have been using it as much as possible.
Long story short is I absolutely love it. It is amazing. It is my reference volume control. Here are some pictures if you are interested in what the assembled unit looked like directly from Blues.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49844)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49845)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49846)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49847)
At some point I will write an actual review and share it.
For now just let me say I do not surf the web looking for preamps or volume controls.
I have had a lot of excellent passives and actives and this is simply my favorite.
It is running on a 12v sla battery and sounds glorious. It is my third LDR based volume control.
If your system is passive friendly you should run to try it. He may still be offering an in home demo.
He is a great guy and was very patient with me.
When I have the time I will be building one from a kit later this year or next year. It is superb :o
-Nick
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^^^^^
Very nice.
I love mine Warpspeed with the Dodd buffer.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49848)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49849)
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^^^^^
Very nice.
I love mine Warpspeed with the Dodd buffer.
Trung, do you have any pics of the inside? I'd like to see how involved the build is, if possible.
Thanks,
Jim
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:thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49851)
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PM me for the part list
:wink:
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PM me for the part list
:wink:
How about posting it?
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Is there a PCB or parts kit?
Here's the info and link to the kit... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/178839-warpspeed-optocoupler-volume-control-kit.html
An inside pic of my proto which is also the Traveling@Warpspeed unit...
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49855)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=49856)
Thanks for your kind words, nicksgem10s...
I have several requests for an Unbalanced only fully-built unit...seriously considering it.
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Wow...Nicksgems...that is stunning to look at. How much does something like that cost?
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Beautiful work Warpspeed! Did you do the woodworking also? Thanks for the link to the kit.
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PM me for the part list
:wink:
PM'd. Thank you, sir! :thumb:
-Jim
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Can the VCCSs drive additional LEDs? (Specifically, is an 8 channel attenuator possible?)
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Wow...Nicksgems...
Beautiful work Warpspeed! ...
Thank you gents! The front and rear panels are my designs but was executed by a fine craftsman from OR.
Can the VCCSs drive additional LEDs? (Specifically, is an 8 channel attenuator possible?)
Running some numbers, it can although I have not tried 4x stereo channels. 2x stereo has been tried...balanced mode is actually 2x matched quads of optocouplers. The problem is finding 4x matched quads unless a very large quantity of optos is purchased. It is easier if control is separate for each stereo pair like L/R front, L/R surround, etc. This way also you can tune each to a room's requirements.
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Part List for my build (fuse holder for next build) :thumb:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NAC3FCB/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsBYeZNO4kNBLuWCklL8Yo0
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NAC3MPB-1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsT%252b4Qrr2iI8qQqU136QbuX
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=546-1455T2202
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Eagle-Plastic-Devices/450-1755/?qs=EIgIgHbwPd1pNwpyJpowFg%3d%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/01500274Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMssaSaMl4au6JgFSw%2fXWz56
Toggle switch
RCA jacks
LED light, 125 K resistor (Option)
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Do you drive the LEDs by current or voltage? What does VCCS stand for?
Thanks,
Rich
edit: voltage controlled current source?
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Trung,
That looks great. I bet it sounds wonderful with the Dodd Buffer.
This is a great sounding volume control on its own.
Rich,usp1, jdubs.......
I highly recommend getting in line to hear his demo unit if you are curious about it.
After not having success with the kit due to my own negligence I was lucky enough to borrow his demo unit.
It was a done deal once I heard what it did in my system.
I will certainly be building one from the kit so I can use this in both of my systems.
If anyone wants to see higher resolution photos of the completed unit there is a link below.
http://fujis5.zenfolio.com/p550274322
Have a great weekend.
-Nick
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Nick
Thank you :D
Let me know when you are ready to give try the inline Dodd buffer with the Warpspeed.
:thumb:
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First off let me say I have a love-hate relationship with the Optocoupler.
I have tried it as a stand alone system attenuator, and as a replacement pot in the dodd buffer. Without a moments hesitation I can say this thing sounds great. As a stand alone attenuator it was the cleanest sound I have heard in my system. It was lacking a little life but that turns out to be a result of longish interconnects to my amps(across the room). When I replaced the pot in the dodd with the Optocoupler, problems solved. All the life, involvement with the music is there. Just sucks you in. Man the best my system has ever sounded.
you ask whats the other side of the coin? I simply do not like the fact that all components except the LDR's are potted. Same problem with the dodd buffer. I like knowing whats going on.
I think the dodd buffer is a great item also, especially with 6 volt Russian tube (in my system).
When I have time I want to give the Optocoupler a try in my tube preamp.
Anyone interested in building an LDR based volume control without 'potted' components can buy boards or full kits from Uriah at www.buildanamp.com (http://www.buildanamp.com)
I have no personal experience with this particular LDR control (I bought a now discontinued kit from a DIY Audio guy in Germany) but reports from users seem as enthusiastic as those who've tried the Warpspeed.
Neil
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VCCS stands for Voltage Controlled Current Source.
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Thanks HAL! A few years ago on the Lightspeed thread I think I was the first person to mention driving the LEDs with current instead of George's voltage method. People started talking and trying it after that. But I was looking at IC LED controllers like Maxim to do it, not a discreet circuit which is beyond my ability. Good to see the top optocoupler designers agree about current for LEDs!
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It's a dual Voltage Controlled Current Source working in tandem and is as generally described in the zipped pdf on post #3 here...http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/176847-warpspeed-optocoupler-volume-control.html#post2357988
Tried to link .pdf directly, for better pics resolution, but couldn't...?
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Thanks for the link!
Make sure you use "url" tags around any external links, using the (http://www.audiocircle.com/Themes/default/images/bbc/url.gif) button.
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Who else is dying to try this thing???!! I know I am :thumb:
Guys as soon as we can get a big enough list he'll send out the demo unit. Tell me you aren't curious! Comes with batteries, you don't need to buy anything to try it.
Please guys, sign up on this demo tour.
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I am as well. I think we need another 4 people :duh:
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Is there a sign-up list? :scratch:
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pm Blues...
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Pm me for direct email
:wink:
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Email sent to join the tour :thumb:
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PM Sent
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I'd like to join the tour. I have Uriah's Lighter Note and can compare it with the Warpspeed. I'm in the SF Bay Area now, but will be moving to the San Diego area in December.
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i'd love to compare it w/my eva-2, but w/o remote it is a non starter for me...
for those interested in ldr wolume control, i strongly recommend it. my eva-2 improved the sound of my modded melos ma333r, which has the tube wolume pot mod - one if the melos' known features has been their stellar photentiometers, (similar to ldr?), further upgraded w/the tube mod. cranking the melos' pots almost wide open, and using the eva-2 for wolume control has added detail i did not think possible; i was simply hoping for no net negative degradation to have a remote that is much more ergonomically friendly than the melos' remote. (the melos is true dual mono, and its remote never tracks the two channels at the same speed, so there's always futzing w/the balance control, which is simply a remote for only one channel, to match its level w/the other channel.)
doug s.
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Hi Doug,
You may want to still get on the tour to audition it. Blues may be able to accomodate a remote option at a higher cost if you talked to him about it.
The Warpspeed is my reference and it is absolutely worth taking a short walk to adjust the volume when needed.
It is special. I also love having remote volume but now I don't mind! :thumb:
-Nick
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Thank you once again Nick for the nice feedback...
I currently have on list 8 for the demo unit...but 2 have not responded with shipping addresses.
praedet, I know you're in VA but will need yours too. Sent you PM.
HAL, if interested please PM or email thru AC...
TrungT and RClark, thanks for the assists as well.
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Sorry for being dense, but could someone link a pricelist for these units? I would also be interested in a remote unit. How much would that cost?
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PM Sent
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Please add me to the tour, I have sent my info.
Thanks
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Ok here's the list...from the PNW to the Midwest, East Coast then back to the West.
10 days to 14 days max at each location. USPS Priority Mail Medium Box Insured/Delivery Confirmed for $14.50 http://postcalc.usps.gov/ExtraServices.aspx?m=13&dz=98052&oz=98311&pob=0&MailingDate=9%2f23%2f2011&MailingTime=8%3a00+AM&time=Sat%2c+Sep+24&mt=13 to the next person on the list. Email me for address or PM member directly. As a courtesy to the next user please replace batteries when it reaches 6V (4x 9V alkalines). Don't get your hopes up on the quality of the build as this is my prototype but it will give you an idea on the performance of optocouplers.
Please handle the unit with care so we could get this going as long as possible. Label box "Fragile" when shipping.
I just need to put a bottom plate and it's ready to go on the road by Monday 9/26/11.
RClark (AC/diyA)
Redmond, Wa. 98052
bpape (AC)
Wildwood, MO 63040
gooberdude (AC)
St Louis, MO 63101-1285
ejfud (AC)
St Paul MN 55116
RWolters (AC/diyA)
Farmington Hills, MI 48336
usp1 (AC)
Champaign, Illinois 61822 -complete address please
praedet (AC/diyA)
Newport, VA 24128
Occam (AC)
Brooklyn, NY 11215
mjosef (AC)
Brooklyn NY11225
Tea-Bag (diyA)
Kennebunk, ME 04043
drjlo (diyA)
Upland, CA 91784
morganc (AC)
Mill Valley, Ca
94941
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:green:
so very excited :thumb:
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:green:
so very excited :thumb:
I'll second those feelings.
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This will be fun!!
Any idea how long the batteries last, in terms of # of hrs usage?
Considering that 9V batteries are about $6 each now, would it be ridiculous to require each participant to buy one & send it along to the next person?
If the preamp uses power sparingly, please disregard.
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I will just watch for responses here as to sound quality. :D
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It's off the starting block...first stop is Redmond, WA across the Puget Sound.
Attached pictures show how it was packed and the forms needed...USPS Insurance($200) and Delivery Confirmation. The unit is dressed for traveling in a bubble lined packet. Please reuse this and the packing materials. Priority Mail medium box and the forms are available for free from your local post office. Label "Fragile" and say electronics when asked.
The Warpspeed has a power ON/OFF button. It draws current most at either full CCW or full CW and least at midpoint. To conserve battery power turn it OFF when not in use. Most listening levels fall on the 2nd go around of the 3-turn volume control pot and where the least current is drawn.
Please notify me and the next person before you ship it and we'll wait for confirmation that he's available and expecting it...Thank you all for your support! Enjoy your time with it!
RClark -expected delivery is tomorrow, Tue. Tracking #0311240000188380283.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=51765)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=51766)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=51767)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=51768)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=51769)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=52929)
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T@W landed at 1st stopover and here's a quote from RClark's initial reaction...
"Expect a glorious review. It is quite nice. Just the half hour I've spent with it has taken my system to another level."
That was me today, smiling in disbelief as I switched back and forth from dac only to warpspeed. It's quite a jump! I can't wait to get back home and spend several hours with it."
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Quite impressed!
I've spent the late evening playing with it (no, the opto, you sick bastard), and I have too many good things to say, but I want to make sure I say all the good things and give this the write up it deserves. I do also work alot over the next several days. A lot (and we should all be grateful for the blessing, there are too many out there desperate and seeking). So expect my thoughts sometime next week.
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This might be the most organized tour that i've taken part in.
Just got a PM today & the preamp should arrive soon. The guy ahead of me can't take delivery yet due to RMAF.
:thumb:
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Hey GooberDood. Ok, I'll send it out tommorrow.
I'll write my review soon, gonna spend the last night with it playin' tunes.
Great unit!
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
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Excellent. Looking forward to it.
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It's great that it is off to a great start...
gooberdude, please let us know when you receive it.
To address the batteries draining, it takes months to a year to really drain it when used normally. So as to not burden the "lucky one" with replacing it for the next person, once the batteries I packed with the unit is unusable, please provide your own as needed. Keep your batteries and do not send it to the next person.
Thanks to all who are participating!
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My opinion of the Warpspeed Octocoupler is that is brings out the pulse of life. The level of clean purity it provides is quite stunning. Certain well recorded electric guitar now sounds like live amp production. Even my temporary placeholder subwoofer (going servos, OB, next) gained definition. John Entwhistle's bass guitar on "My Generation" has a live slap to it. It's a very refined sound coming from the whole system with the Warpspeed, but that refinement is secondary to the liveliness, the increased definition and dimensionality that just brings the sound of live music just that much closer.
I was, I wouldn't say skeptical, but I was ready for anything when I installed it, cranked the volume on my dac to maximum, and switched over to the dial control. I had been listening to music all day prior to installing the unit. Instant ear to ear grin! Instantly noticeable, it was like clouds parting to reveal the sun, or like windex to a dusty pane. I don't miss using the remote at all for such a tradeup.
I'll be a purchaser, I'll miss the unit too much. I think my search for a "preamp" has ended before it began. With the Warpspeed, about the only thing I desire to change is the quality of dac I'm feeding to it, it's begging for something better than what I've got. I can only imagine what a top shelf dac might deliver with this optocoupler. I can say however that I am pleased enough to not change a thing. I've had people over to listen and they were absolutely speechless afterwards! I might eventually add a Dodd inline buffer, and then pretty much call it a day!
This forum has been invaluable. Due to my learning here, I've now got an incredible amp, speakers, and now I've got the attenuator picked out. I think in six months time I'll have a system I can be quite proud of. This Warpspeed will sit at the top of the rack.
My current setup "the Tie Fighter" . Much of that setup is temporary. The boxes under the MMG's are gone when they undergo their scheduled top to bottom "Gunn" mod. The subs will be OB servos. the blankets will be real basstraps, etc. Hopefully the next guys are more photogenic.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/iostream1/WP_000774.jpg)
:lol:
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/iostream1/tie_fighter1.jpg)
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I already miss it!
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I already miss it!
hey Rclark, nice endorsement. I just ordered one myself (without hearing it so happy to read your review :) ). I am interested to know what equipment other than the speakers you are running it with.
Thanks John
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You're gonna love it!
Emotiva ERC-2 cd player to Emotiva XDA-1 Dac via optical (soon to get an AES/EBU cable). Amp is a Virtue Two.2 modded with ClarityCaps and hipassed at 80hz. PS for the amp is an Astron LS-10a linear. Running batteries on that in a matter of days now. Speakers, Magnepan MMG's. Cables: Mac Ultra Silver+ IC's, Zmanastronomy's cryo'd copper speaker wire.
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My set-up s/b ok for a preamp demo, except i don't own a difft preamp to a/b it against :roll:
I've been using digital sources for volume ctrl the last few wks w/a new 15wpc SET amp. I have a TRL modded sacd player, and also a mac mini/Tranquility dac front end. The Opto vs direct connection s/b a good test.
i've owned a few passive preamps including a nice tvc, but got bored w/them after a while.
Looks like i'll have the preamp until 10/18 or so. BPape should get it the tuesday after RMAF.
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Gooberdude's source gear is much more serious than mine, his report will be interesting.
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I think my rig is decent enough to hear differences in components & what not, but Bryan Pape gets the opto after me.
I value Bryan's opinion above most, due to his profession & experience. he's heard the best of the best.
matt
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Worried about using USPS for this tour. The idiots can't find my batteries and charger I just bought from a user here for my amp. It was posted as delivered this morning at 7:34 am, but there's no notice, I heard noone knock, and they don't have the package at the station.
I have only had consistent good service from Fedex.
Edit: got it :)
Holy Moly. Battery power on my Virtue amp is a similarly profound experience..if not even more so.. Too bad the Warp is gone, I may keel over with too much goodness.. battery powered amp, battery powered light-based attenuation.. My dac sounds awesome again. :thumb:
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USPS came through, the preamp arrived in great shape.
haven't had time to hook it up yet but will post impressions soon.
:thumb:
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My opinion of the Warpspeed Octocoupler is that is brings out the pulse of life. The level of clean purity it provides is quite stunning. Certain well recorded electric guitar now sounds like live amp production....
"...brings out the pulse of life." I like that description...and I am constantly reminded by John Lee Hooker, Taj Mahal, Mark Knopfler, BB King, SRV, EC, Keb Mo, Dan Peer, Chet Atkins, Robert Cray to name a few.
gooberdude, enjoy!
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This little preamp is something else, imaging is excellent & begs you to keep turning the volume up. Be careful w/this thing!
I ran into a snag initially, totally forgot its a passive preamp. My dac set-up requires long IC lengths & wasn't optimal. 1m IC's with the sacd player work much better. Still playing with the feedback knob on the amp & the sub amp outputs, but so far its enjoyable. Very different from passives & a nice tvc i've had prior.
Over the weekend i'll have time to re-arrange & get the mini/Tranquility in the mix (hopefully).
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Can we nickname it the "neutrino"? :D
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The optocoupler went on a mini-tour yesterday as i went to 2 separate audio gatherings. Having 1 panel clear is a good idea. Since the preamp is small, makes for a good conversation piece.
I have to admit that I just got the preamp to work correctly in my system this morning, thanks to Rclark. it seems the opto did not like the way i had the sub amp connected, which gets its signal via speaker cables from the main amp. :nono:
This morning i rigged up some y splitters off the opto's rca outputs with signals to both amps via interconnects. Problem solved!!
The final piece of the puzzle I wasn't getting before is deep bass. It is prolific now.
This is unlike any passive i've ever had.
Thanks Rclark & Warpspeed for your assistance.
matt
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Thanks for your observations gooberdude and Rclark...I have not run into this issue before as I don't have a subwoofer.
That's how I initially tried bi-amping with the Neutrino before with Y-splitters from its outputs.
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Its been my experience that a passive can't always drop into a multi-amp system easily.
If your home system doesn't reach the lowest bass registers, consider buying a sub :lol: The Neutrino does low, forceful deep bass.
I can't hear any sort of sonic signature, just free flowing dynamics.
My room is wide & sound is usually plastered against the front wall uniformly. The neutrino brings a front/back depth to everything that is awesome. The stage isn't noticeably wider, but definitely more spread out & not artificially so.
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Beginner's luck! Had no idea I was doing it the right way for the octo! :lol:
Yeah, I just went and y-split each left right IC from the Warpspeed into the amp and stereo into the sub. That's why I was able to comment on the improvement even to the sub.
That's my plan for when I get to the building of new subwoofers. My tentative plan is to replace the single vented 10" and have a pair of GR Research 8" (or 12) H or W frames per side, each placed alongside a maggie, and to use the y-split into them. If there is a better way I'd love to know, but my speakers and current sub received plenty of juice.
My dac has 12 volt peak to peak, 2 amp output. Its replacement will need to be as powerful, I think.
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All V4s and V8s (bottom units) have their Unbalanced OUTs internally Y-split, each with its own pairs of L/R RCA connectors on the rear panel...that's been taken care of for you! :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=52261)
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What's the cost (assembled and parts only) of these?
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...and how long is order-build-ship time??
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Guys, please email me and I can answer in more detail...I'm listed here in AC. Thanks.
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I wasn't aware there were two models. Can you describe the differences between the V4 and V8? Which unit is represented on this tour?
:D
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I just put in an order for a V4 :lol:
Even if I can only use it with one source, or in a 2nd system, or for a rainy day if my main preamp stops working....the opto is a bargain no matter how you look at it.
So far its a match made in heaven with my sacd player, but I can't get the Mini/Tranquility to work properly. Both sources put out 2V or more, but i'm thinking its an impedence issue with the dac.
oh well, not a deal breaker. the opto is good enough to build a system around, rather than beat my self over the head trying to get to to 'fit' into an existing system.
EDIT: If you are a member at diyaudio.com, Warpspeed has posted a lot of info & product info on that forum. Their member Blues has been building them too I think.
matt
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That is a nice looking DAC, Matt. I wonder why it won't work? Perhaps greater than 2v is overloading the Warpspeed? From the Tranquility site:
Output voltage greater than 2.0 volts
Output impedance less than 50 ohms
Do you have the output impedance info on the SACD player to contrast?
John
P.S.
oh well, not a deal breaker. the opto is good enough to build a system around, rather than beat my self over the head trying to get to to 'fit' into an existing system.
That is some mighty praise!!!
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Guys, please email me and I can answer in more detail...I'm listed here in AC. Thanks.
Where is your email listed? :scratch:
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Where is your email listed? :scratch:
I think if you "click" the small envelope under his name/icon, that will bring up a option to e-mail him.
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I think if you "click" the small envelope under his name/icon, that will bring up a option to e-mail him.
Gotcha. I've never used that before.
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Thank you all for the great feedback...but alas, these getting built revolves more around my free time and parts availability rather than demand. There might be some requests getting turned down or delayed so an abundance of patience is highly appreciated.
Coming up with the other sub-options are in response to requests and also to quench my curiosity on its performance -like the V12.
V4 - 1-Input/2-Output(paralleled) stereo Unbalanced only
V4x2 - 2-Input/2-Output(paralleled) stereo Unbalanced only
V4x3 - 3-Input/2-Output(paralleled) stereo Unbalanced only
V8 - switchable Unbalanced (1-In/2-Out paralleled) or Balanced (1-In/1-Out) stereo; No Unbal/Bal conversion
V8.1 - 1-In/1-Out Balanced only stereo with single level control
V8.2 - 1-In/1-Out Balanced only stereo with dual L/R level control
Yes, technical info is already at diyA. For availability and other questions please email or pm.
Those 3 got built for a rare "together" photo:)
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InfernoSTi - according to the Sony manual, the SCD-C2000ES puts out 2Vrms (at 50 kilovolts). The load impedence is over 10 kilohms.
Tranquility puts out 2V as well, but less than 50 ohms impedence as stated before.
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Yes guys, please, Warpspeed has been very good about not violating manufacturer's posting rules about promoting his products on open circles. So please keep the questions to technical or operational ones about the Optocoupler. Pricing, availability, ordering, basically anything to do with commerce has to be done privately. And thanks to Warpspeed CE for being such a gentleman throughout.
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I would REALLY appreciate if Warpspeed CE posted a complete price list of all the permutations in the Industry ads circle.
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Send him an email...he is good about replying.
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Very cool johnnycopy. I've always wanted a Carina.
I only have the opto a few more days, but expect delivery of a V4 soon & am excited to pass the opto along to others.
Does your Carina power Hawthorne Sterlings? I read your posts on their forum re: the opto but don't recall your set-up.
Warpspeed CE has been researching the issue with my Tranquility dac. He found a thread at a difft forum on the subject, and changing a capacitor value was the trick to get it to work. Good news, and refreshing that the vendor is taking time to research compatibility.
matt
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I’m posting this both at Hawthorne forum and at the AudioCircle forum.
System used:
DENON 2930 CD/DVD player with The Upgrade Company’s Reference Upgrade, feeding the Warpspeed V4 (via unbroken-in MAC Silver interconnects). The V4 feeds an Eddie Vaughn CARINA EL84 tube amplifier (point to point wiring, NOS Mullard and Amperex Bugle boy tubes, running in ultralinear mode) via MAC Reference interconnects. The Carina speaker outputs feed Hawthorne Audio Sterling Silver Iris mid’s and tweeters. The Carina speaker outputs also feed into two 370 watt Rhythmik plate amps. These plate amps feed four 15 inch Hawthorne Audio Augie bass drivers (2 per side). All drivers are open baffle on baffles built by Darrel Hawthorne of Hawthorne Audio.
After receiving the V4 yesterday, I bypassed the PEC volume control in my CARINA and inserted the Warpspeed into the chain.
Matt, I had no problem running the plate amps off of the speaker outputs of the CARINA. After reading your post, I was prepared to have to run interconnects from the second RCA outputs of the Warpspeed V4 to the RCA inputs of the Rhythmik, but didn’t have to. In fact I listened for about an hour without any of the 15 inch bass Augies connected (it was very good that way as well).
I played 4 artists last night:
John Lee Hooker
James Taylor
Neil Young
Roger Waters – Amused to Death (Qsound recording)
My conclusion (in my system) is… conventional volume controls are a place to look for improvement. Why else could you add this many more parts (virgin MAC Silver interconnect with its RCA ends, all the components in the V4) to the signal chain, and still get more resolution, transparency, and detail without added stridency.
Highlights of listening experience last night…
-Hey, there’s a banjo off to the side in one of the Neil Young songs.
-Listening to that guitar makes me unconsciously feel the player moving his hands around the instrument.
-I asked my son if it sounded more like live music over where he was sitting by the computer, cause it did where I was on the couch.
-I don’t remember ever doing this, but when the horse and sleigh danced across the top of my wall from right of the right speaker to left of the left speaker on the Roger Waters album, I grinned (honest). Not cause the horse and sleigh hadn’t appeared there before, but because they filled the room, it was like I was wearing headphones and there was improved DEPTH and dimensionality to the soundstage.
-On the same album, a man chops wood repeatedly outside. I always loved the attack of each hit (with good sounding equipment) cause it hit’s hard (testing the dynamic capability of the music chain), but what caught my attention, after each chop of wood, was the scattered sprinkling of a bunch of individual wood chips hitting the ground after each crack. What was subtle, in the background, or unrealized before, became a highlight and an enjoyable part of the listening experience. And these experiences repeated on other cuts.
This change is more than a little bit of sparkle added to the treble end of the spectrum. It is, to date, an enjoyable improvement to music on my system.
No old school LDR balance drift issues, the volume goes down to dead silent, and it runs on batteries (mine is currently running on 12 D cells). The finished V4 that I bought has a beautiful rosewood faceplate, very well finished chassis, was double packed for shipping, and I felt personally well cared for. Allan watched the parcel through Customs, notifying me of its progress, etc. Overall, very similar to the wonderful service I’m so used to from the Hawthorne’s.
I want to thank Allan for producing this product at an affordable price that allowed me to try something I’ve been thinking about for some time now. IMHO and in my specific system (I recognize this type of product may or may not work in yours), this was an improvement beyond its price point.
Update today.
Metallica – Black Album
Kraftwerk – Dance Mix
Started with Metallica. Yelled up to my wife upstairs that she may not like the next few songs that much. I didn’t mention the bass yesterday, but it is just better integrated into the whole presentation, faster, lower, and less overhang, kinda driving the music instead of waiting for it. Moved onto Kraftwerk and partway through Radioactivity I heard a banging upstairs. I turned it down asking her if she wanted me to turn it down. She was dancing. :)
I (we) really like this thing.
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That's an excellent statement about the bass driving the music, rather than waiting for it. Deep, low & fast is what i experienced. Never heard my auggie's perform like this before.
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Im glad others have reports similar to mine. I was worried that as a noob with this stuff, that my little review would sound too good, too over the top, but no, the device just really is that good and my view on it is valid. I can't wait to have my own. Combined with my now upgraded amp I think I might pass out with how devastatingly good it will be.
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English being a language of hyperbole and cliches, this is neither and very refreshing to read. Thank you John for taking the time to share your thoughts in a very straightforward, well-detailed fashion.
I am quite humbled by all your positive responses...
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I know these devices are relatively new but any idea about what kind of reliability can one expect?
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I really don't know but I'm hoping forever...these LDRs are operated below their 50mW spec. Barring random part failure and the warping of our solar system I hope it can be an heirloom for our kids 8)
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Well I just bought mine :green: :green:. It's built by someone who shall remain nameless out of respect for his personal freetime :thumb:
Can't wait!
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I thought I'd chime in here, since I have built / owned one of these LDR volume controls for over 6 months now....
I don't have the Warpspeed, nor have I heard it, but I did build Uriah's kit, so my comments / impressions will revolve around the Lighter Note LDR.
I have been thru many, many preamps, some of them quite $$, and I also have also used the Axiom passive, a DACT attenuator on the source, and Rothwell attenuators.
To keep this short an to the point, to my ears, the LDR is the closest I've heard to a straight wire with signal attenuation. There is no sonic coloration whatsoever, and all the dynamics, bass, airiness, and soundstaging of the original signal are there in spades. With the other passives, I've noticed some degree of compression, and also some coloring of the signal, in most cases making it more "polite" than the original.
With all the actives I've tried, which ranged from excellent to just plain mediocre or bad, I noticed that they tailor the sound somewhat, so that no matter what you play, there were similarities in the sound that really shouldn't be there.
With the LDR, I am hearing more of the characteristics of the recording, whether good or bad, and that makes for much more engaging listens.
If you have favorable conditions that mate up well for one of these LDR passives (e.g. source output and amp input impedances, low capacitance ICs, etc.), I encourage you to try one. My only drawback to the Lighter Note is that is doesn't go down to 0 volume when the vol control is all the way down.... but oh well.... I can live with that. :green:
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So could the warpspeed unit replace the volume pot on a preamp? I realize it is a kit that can go in any enclosure, but what would be involved?
Can it run 4 analog outputs to 3 different amps and a sub?
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(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/iostream1/WP_000821.jpg)
got mine, minutes ago. I'll make it all look pretty later. It's the kit version of the V4, not the retail unit that gaces page 1. The look suits my system. A sleeper. Like having a 600 horsepower all wheel drive mid engined 1981 VW GTI. I'm hearing my modded, battery powered Two.2 with the Warpspeed together for the first time. It is utterly sublime :green:. It's the best sound I've both ever had, and ever heard. My Magnepan MMG's love me right now. Sonic heaven.
I'm either going to ship my dac out to see if it can be improved with music rails, new capacitors, etc... Or I'm saving my pennies for a wicked new battery powered dac.
To its builder, thank you. You do AC a great service by being here, you know who you are :D :thumb:
And Allan, thank you for creating such a giant slayer of a device that mere mortals can afford. Even your retail unit is not really very expensive at all considering the preamps it has defeated. I've read the DIYaudio threads. There is no shortage of praise for this device, not even a hint of dissatisfaction. And on an audio forum that is extremely hard to pull off. It's the real deal.
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So could the warpspeed unit replace the volume pot on a preamp? I realize it is a kit that can go in any enclosure, but what would be involved?
Can it run 4 analog outputs to 3 different amps and a sub?
You're reading my mind......
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Rclark,
Looks good, but it seems like I have seen it before. :green:
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•waves Jedi hand•
This is not the WS you're looking for :green:
I am very lucky, I think the rest will have to build their own or buy fully built.
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where do you buy these things built?
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Send an email to Warpspeed CE with your needs and he will get back to you with a quote. 8)
To late to get on the tour?
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thanks rodge.
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Conversation between me and wife " I bought an Optocoupler it will be coming by mail. A what? A Warspeed Optocoupler.
OK what does it do? :dunno:"
Really I don't know but I want one :green:. What should I tell her?
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You can have her read this http://www.ussdragonstar.com/utilitycore/warpspeeds.asp (http://www.ussdragonstar.com/utilitycore/warpspeeds.asp)
And fig. out from there.
:wink:
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I am using the Warpspeed kit in the dodd buffer and its pure magic in my system (rebuilt Maggy iii's biamped).
I like it better than either the warpspeed alone of the dodd buffer with stock pot.
I want to try the warpspeed in my full tube line stage but that's a project that is further down on my list for now.
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So, did you build it into the buffer?
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Enjoy your W'speed RClark! :thumb:
The W'speed is just a pass thru variable voltage divider, so the burden of providing current for muti-paralleled outputs goes to you Source/DAC. In this case, 2Vrms or more output voltage and low output impedance is an advantage which is now fairly common with modern DACs...
pelliott321, please share your other info why you found that you needed a buffer...
A tube buffer also does wonders to Class D amplification...I find I don't need one with my Class A amps...just lucky enough that I can operate these living in the Pacific NW.
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The W'speed is just a pass thru variable voltage divider, so the burden of providing current for muti-paralleled outputs goes to you Source/DAC. In this case, 2Vrms or more output voltage and low output impedance is an advantage which is now fairly common with modern DACs...
I had the wife read that. She understands my enthusiasm for the thing now... :o
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I recommend the Warpspeed to anyone, even if you have a good preamp & are simply interested.
The built version that I bought directly from Allan arrived & looks amazing. haven't plugged it in just yet, but hopefully later tonight i'll have time.
Hard to believe that while I was demo'ing a tour unit, i ordered AND received the built unit while i still had the demo unit.
best tour ever!! :lol:
I still have the demo unit, but am trying to get it to BPape this weekend. If there's a delay i will let everyone know. I can always give my built version to Bryan as well, and send the demo on its way outside StL.
i've now tried the demo unit with 4 difft sources, and the only source that fails is the Tranquility dac. The other 3 work perfectly, no matter the interconnect length (I use a 10" set of IC's with both a Motorola cable tv box & a PS3).
matt
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Good news! The tour preamp will be on its way to another city.
BPape will demo my preamp at some point in the next few weeks.
i'll get the tour preamp boxed up & in the mail either tomorrow or 1st thing Monday.
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Just pm'd you and ejfud...Thanks for the great review Matt!
Please pm/email Matt about the Tranquility DAC issue and the solution we came up with. I think their SE version doesn't have the same output caps...
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You nailed it, time for a new dac. DB audio labs just came out w/a battery powered version, but i may hold out for something w/multiple inputs to work with my entire system.
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I have a couple of things on the table but around Christmas would be a good time to get this. These still come in kit form? I think I saw a price somewhere with shipping to Canada. If someone could point me to that it would be appreciated.
I'm not too technical but I can solder. Can I assume that even though I can't really read schematics I should be able to assemble this by just following a clear photo of an assembled unit? This is how I handled the crossovers on my GR Research speakers...
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I'm not too technical but I can solder. Can I assume that even though I can't really read schematics I should be able to assemble this by just following a clear photo of an assembled unit? This is how I handled the crossovers on my GR Research speakers...
I share your level of expertise. I ordered the kit, and having been given the instructions and drawing out my plan for connections, feel that you should be ok. It does appear still to be a bit tricky, but Allan has made the parts about as clearly labeled as you can get.
Now, I haven't actually built it yet. I have just received my Hammond aluminum enclosure and the ancillary parts like a shiny knob, fuse holder, Cardas chassis mount rcas. I chose to get this stuff from Handmade Electronics. I picked up fuse and power connectors from radio shack. Next, I need to layout the holes and drill them out. -never drilled aluminum before. I am researching a bit before I get started. Plan to put it together this weekend, if all goes well.
Question? - what is the right size fuse? I was thinking 1.5 amp slow blow type.
-Tony
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^^^^^
1.5A fuse should work great.
I will use inline fuse next project, much easier
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/01500274Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMssaSaMl4au6JgFSw%2fXWz56 (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/01500274Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMssaSaMl4au6JgFSw%2fXWz56)
(http://www.mouser.com/HDimages/littelfuse/lrg/inhouse_01500274z_t.jpg?w=400)
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I recommend the Warpspeed to anyone, even if you have a good preamp & are simply interested.
The built version that I bought directly from Allan arrived & looks amazing. haven't plugged it in just yet, but hopefully later tonight i'll have time.
Hard to believe that while I was demo'ing a tour unit, i ordered AND received the built unit while i still had the demo unit.
best tour ever!! :lol:
I still have the demo unit, but am trying to get it to BPape this weekend. If there's a delay i will let everyone know. I can always give my built version to Bryan as well, and send the demo on its way outside StL.
i've now tried the demo unit with 4 difft sources, and the only source that fails is the Tranquility dac. The other 3 work perfectly, no matter the interconnect length (I use a 10" set of IC's with both a Motorola cable tv box & a PS3).
matt
Congratulations, Matt! That is really fantastic to hear. The only thing you did wrong is send this to Bryan instead of routing it through me first! :lol:
May your impedances be matched and your single ended connections short....
John
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I'd like to congratulate Allan on another milestone: the V4x2 model. This model has two inputs and two (parallel) outputs.
I requested this design tweak and it turned out that he had never put such a model together previously. We agreed on the basics and, upon completing the build, the results turned out great. Per Allan, the first V4x2 is dead quiet between the two inputs and otherwise has the same sonic qualities as the single input version. It's great when the theory proves out in practice.
The two inputs allow the Warpspeed to integrate two separate sources without the hassle of switching out the the RCA cables each time. Many of us have both a DAC and a phono pre amp, for example, and value the ability to have a simple setup when listening to digital and analog.
I told Allan to get ready once people hear that is an option…I suspect it will be a popular model as it allows such great flexibility when incorporating the output. :lol:
As far as the two outputs, that is perfect for bi-amping situations like I use. The ability to have a master volume control is useful, particularly with a set of stereo plate amps that have their own gain and crossover controls. And it certainly makes building a hi pass and/or a low pass buffer an interesting option down the road. I'm thinking about reducing the need for passive crossovers… :-)
Allan is burning it in and doing some QA/QC before shipping the V4x2 to me on Monday (but we all know he is just listening to music and can't pull himself away, right?).
Thanks and I can't wait to hear the Warpspeed in my system next week!
John
P.S. Here are some photos of the finished product (the rear panel being the distinctive difference). It's simply gorgeous!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=52766)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=52768)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=52767)
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Very nice John, you are soon going to be the kid with all the cool toys! :lol:
I am anxiously awaiting your impressions.
Best,
Ed
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I'd like to congratulate Allan on another milestone: the V4x2 model. This model has two inputs and two (parallel) outputs.
What a coincidence! This is exactly the config I requested a quote on yesterday, except in my case the extra set of outputs is for sub(s). Oh, wait, I need remote. Eagerly awaiting the time when that option is available. Take your time, Allan. Catch up on orders and clear some time to perfect this option. I am a patient man. OTOH, I'm not getting any younger. :bomb:
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If and when a remote comes, I'll be in line for a retrofit, but it sounds so good as is that without one, you simply don't care!
Thinking about painting my chassis as well, or maybe sending it in for the nice wood box. I live close, maybe I can just scoot it over and do it all in one day. ?
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If and when a remote comes, I'll be in line for a retrofit, but it sounds so good as is that without one, you simply don't care!
some of us do care; i for one, won't have a preamp w/o remote wolume control. i can concur, tho, that ldr attenuators are the real deal and are fantastic! 8)
doug s.
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There's been a healthy response and queries for kits lately...for everyone's convenience and info please read on...
For all that are interested in building a kit, please be aware that the kit requires experience in soldering, circuit wiring/analysis, and assembly of a box with connectors/switch, etc. to complete. Additionally, a battery power supply is needed.
The kit comes with just the basic electronics -Quad matched optos, the WarpSquid, a Pot, and a very straightforward instruction manual(not step-by-step) -there is no circuit board. TrungT, with his good heart, listed somewhere on this Thread or is it on the Dodd(?), other parts that will be required. Please take time to research before commiting to a kit. The kit thread is at diyA.
Pitfalls in building is the recommended direct soldering onto the RCAs which require soldering dexterity and control of the hot iron in a tight space. Also, the optos are very fragile when too much heat is applied and will readily fail. The last thing I would like to do is for you trying to have me replace "defective" optos or to be buying a new set of matched optos to replace burnt ones...in my eyes a quad matched set is a very precious commodity.
The kit is only for Unbal or single-ended stereo connection and 1-input. The V4, V8 and sub-options are for the fully-built products that I offer only -chassis parts are not offered. The kit is for DIY only or a friend maybe can do it for you for beer and barbeque at your place :)
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Honestly the retail units, besides being drop dead gorgeous, are not as pricy as you might think. If I hadn't been able to get mine built, I would have saved a bit more for the retail version, no problem. Either way, I was sold in the first minute and had to have my own. I think the rest on the tour will agree once they try the demo :)
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John and Reza, thanks for the praise and kind words...
Here are better pics of InfernoSTi's V4x2...with the regular Sasquatch feet.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=52802)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=52803)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=52804)
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Just pm'd you and ejfud...Thanks for the great review Matt!
Please pm/email Matt about the Tranquility DAC issue and the solution we came up with. I think their SE version doesn't have the same output caps...
I have the Tranquility SE. What is the story about the non-cooperation between the standard Tranquility? My friend has a passive preamp that didn't work well with the standard Tranquility either.
My kit is now up and running on a "test system". :thumb: I will check it out in the main rig, with the Tranquility SE...
-Tony
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It's here and it's in the system. More later.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/ejfud/DSCF0331.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/ejfud/DSCF0328.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c254/ejfud/DSCF0333.jpg)
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Ooooooh that is a sweet looking rig.
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EJFUD, feel free to pull out the little cardboard thing from the volume knob...its only for shipping, to fill the gap behind the knob. Glad it arrived on time & in good shape. Remember to spin the volume knob 2 entire rotations before any sound comes out...a little weird at first.
TraderXfan, it appears the standard Tranquility had a few design issues that were worked out in the SE version. Compatibility w/passives (on the std dac) requires changing a capacitor. Not certain yet whether i'll go this route, or just buy a new dac soon. The guys at computeraudiophile.com got it figured out some time ago.
matt
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That knob info would have saved me a few minutes of panic when I first hooked them up! :lol:
I left the cardboard because it made me laugh.
The amplifiers are single ended el84 and very nice. They were built and belong to a friend. The speakers are my rendition of the Saba Greencones in a resonating cabinet. Very nice in my small room.
First impressions are very positive.
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Ooooooh that is a sweet looking rig.
Oooh la la! I agree...
How's the battery holding up?
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How does one tell if the battery is going bad?
Sounds great by the way.
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You need a DC voltmeter to measure voltage on one of the batteries...replace when at 6V or so. All 4 are in parallel so will measure all the same.
Sounds great by the way.
Aaah-hem...
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Has anyone compared this unit to the Goldpoint units?
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GoldPoint attenuators? Guessing it would be like comparing a steam engine to an electromagnetic bullet train. I haven't heard one but from the looks of it they are a pretty common attenuator of the type you can get anywhere, these WS are a whole new technology. I bet someone will have used a Goldpoint and an LDR of some type and can comment.
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Hi All ,
For those of us who missed getting on the current T@W tour, Allan is willing to extend the tour if there is enough interest. 8)
If you are interested in demoing this fine piece of gear send your contact info to Allan (Warpspeed CE) via his email link, to form a second tour.
The tour would continue from the last recipient on the first list. :D
Regards,
Chris
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Thanks for your interest, Chris.
I encourage anyone wanting to demo to please email with your complete shipping address and email address. Once this 2nd list has grown I'll consolidate it and we can keep going after the 1st...I'd rather have it continue on to another than get it shipped back to me.
The shipping is flat rate $14.50 so we can have the neutrino criss-cross the US however many times...
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...Oh, wait, I need remote. Eagerly awaiting the time when that option is available...
Ted, and others who have been rattling my cage...work is on to develop the RC option. Like I've been posting before, it's quite a pricey proposition because I do not want to compromise on the motorized high precision potentiometer. This is the only way I want to go to keep the precision, accuracy, repeatability, and the step resolution to deliver controlled power to the optocouplers. With it I am able to optimize an optocoupler's full response curve from totally OFF to fully ON, which gives the Warpspeed the gradual increase/decrease of volume level that we have.
Expected availability is Feb 2012...thank you all!
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Guys I'll say it again because it's worth repeating. I love being able to use a remote, and I was using one for volume, right up until the WS. But honestly what the Neutrino brings to the table, you just don't care. And besides, it's just so easy to set the volume you want, and go from there. It's really not an issue. I actually like it, there's a sense of old school meets very high tech. I admit, a remote would be nice, but I've come to realize that for volume control, it's not super critical unless you need to adjust the volume constantly, which shouldn't be the case.
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Guys I'll say it again because it's worth repeating. I love being able to use a remote, and I was using one for volume, right up until the WS. But honestly what the Neutrino brings to the table, you just don't care. And besides, it's just so easy to set the volume you want, and go from there. It's really not an issue. I actually like it, there's a sense of old school meets very high tech. I admit, a remote would be nice, but I've come to realize that for volume control, it's not super critical unless you need to adjust the volume constantly, which shouldn't be the case.
sorry, i won't go back to no remote. while i agree that ldr attenuators are the shiznit, they are awailable now w/remote. i want everything that the warpspeed brings to the table and remote control for wolume! :green:
i do not wanna crap on this thread, and i have no way of knowing if the warpspeed is actually better than my remote ldr, but i do know that if i wanted a warpspeed, i would definitely be waiting until feb 2012. :wink: and more power to blues/warpspeed for committing to making remote awailable! :thumb: as i only need one input, i may actually try one when it comes out; i could let someone else have mine, which has 3 inputs (also remote controlled), which i do not need...
doug s.
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Thanks Rclark, that's how I feel with the manual control, toggle switch, badge...basic, old school, lean 'n' mean.
But I also have one ear on the audiophile pulse and requests, like doug s.'s and others. The sticking point though is still the very expensive motor pot and having to convince the vendor about supplying as needed and not in bulk...they're used to supplying big industries, robotics, military and such.
I'll continue exploring the possibility but no guarantees at this time...later it will be about convincing you guys the pricing is correct and fair :o :scratch:
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Do you know of any relatively small companies that use that motor? If so, you might convince them to sell you 1-2 here and there out of there larger batch...
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also, why is a motor needed? i have heard about electronic options that remain out of the signal path... surely it would be easier and less expensive?
doug s.
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The process is they modify a manual precision pot to include a rear shaft where the motor is attached so it can be controlled via an external InfraRed(IR) board that runs the motor CW or CCW. The IR board has an IR receiver controlled by you with a handset. You will see the knob rotate by R/C.
Another way is without a rear shaft...instead the front shaft is turned-around 180 deg. and connected to the motor. This has the disadvantage of not being able to manually adjust with a knob on the front panel like the rear shaft driven one.
I still love controlling the volume by cranking a large volume knob which electronic/digital options do not provide...and may not have the fine steps a precision multi-turn pot affords.
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OK guys, I'm finally reporting back on my Warpspeed experience. I have to confess that I wasn't really ready for the level of change that I experienced. Once sorted out and having been listening for a little while now, I can say the sound is everything that folks are saying: smooth, detailed, an explosive soundstage, and a pleasing tonal balance. There is depth, width, and, how do I say it, a soft but detailed sound (like silk maybe?).
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53561)
One thing that I have to say up front is that I didn't like the soundstage at first as my room isn't symmetrical and it was not good to listen to. By coincidence, I had ordered the Prime 37 diffuser for my front wall (I use a full dipole setup) and once I got that installed, things really started to come together for me. And to be clear, I took the Warpspeed out of the system until I had the diffuser set up the way I liked it, then added the Warpspeed back in, made some minor tweaks and adjustments to the speaker location, and I've been happy ever since.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53563)
I have to say I'm still getting used to the sound quality. It is reminding me of the first time I heard a Single Ended Triode amp and I knew I liked the sound better but couldn't place what or why. Kind of an odd experience to get from a passive component, right? :scratch:
I'm still listening but think I really don't care what or why...I like the sound of things on every recording, so there you have it. This is the first improvement that I've had in a while that makes me think things are more musical and detailed, rather than just more detailed. I was getting a bit too dry and now things seem rich again. I feel funny about writing this as I'm sure it seems a bit odd. I can say I'm no "hear it once and I'm a fan boy" on this product. Just ask poor Allan, I wasn't happy with things for the first ten days until I sorted out my room balance...and then OH WOW! Just saying...
John
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Good review and glad you like it. I hear you on the "more detailed but not necessarily more musical". I have regretted a few of those type of "upgrades".
Sounds like a must have for the new year...
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John, I'm very happy it is finally settling down in your system/room to your liking. I'm :oops: my only excuse was warp-lag from moving it south to Texas...one of my favorite westerns is "The Outlaw Josey Wales" aka "Gone to Texas". :)
Hoping it'll provide you long, enjoyable evenings of fine music...
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Good review and glad you like it. I hear you on the "more detailed but not necessarily more musical". I have regretted a few of those type of "upgrades".
Sounds like a must have for the new year...
I'm really happy with the Warpspeed and for the money, you won't do better, in my opinion. You know I've gone pretty extreme into the DIY tube and speaker world and have become kind of picky...this is a product that puts a smile on my face and works so well with the setup.
John, I'm very happy it is finally settling down in your system/room to your liking. I'm :oops: my only excuse was warp-lag from moving it south to Texas...one of my favorite westerns is "The Outlaw Josey Wales" aka "Gone to Texas". :)
Hoping it'll provide you long, enjoyable evenings of fine music...
Thank you for the gracious thoughts. Don't be concerned...all you did was expose the limits of my listening room setup. The good news was I had ordered that Prime 37 diffuser that has helped me overcome my odd shaped room and listening position so that I can enjoy the fruits of your labor. Everything sounds like a million dollars in my room now! I've got King Crimson on now but was enjoying "Jazz at the Pawnshop" earlier and Boston, Blondie, and Elvis Costello before that. Like I said, everything sounds better....
John
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my only excuse was warp-lag from moving it south to Texas...one of my favorite westerns is "The Outlaw Josey Wales" aka "Gone to Texas". :)
Am I reading this right that you moved to Texas? I live close Tyler in east Texas.
-Roy
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I think he meant he sent the Warpspeed to Texas, not that he moved to Texas1 :thumb:
John
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...one of my favorite westerns is "The Outlaw Josey Wales" aka "Gone to Texas". :)
With some of the best one liners in any western, like "I didn't surrender neither, but they took my horse and made him surrender".
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I think he meant he sent the Warpspeed to Texas, not that he moved to Texas1 :thumb:
John
Thanks, John...yeah I wasn't real sure about that.
With some of the best one liners in any western, like "I didn't surrender neither, but they took my horse and made him surrender".
I really like that one, too.
And, of course, the bounty hunter says, "A man's got to do something for a living these days."
Josey Wales answers, "Dyin' ain't much of a living, boy."
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Just John's V4x2, Roy...
John, your great sense on how to set-up your system and room made it all happen for you. My simple advice to all is, "You know what you like (or dislike) when you hear it..."
Here are some great dialogue from the movie...
Granny Hawkins: So, you'll be Josey Wales.
Josey Wales: Now, how might you know that, Granny?
Granny Hawkins: Soldiers were here looking for you 'bout two hours ago. They say you killed your own men. They say you're a hard put and desperate man, Josey Wales. They're goin' to heel and hide you to a barn door. You know what I say?
Josey Wales: What's that?
Granny Hawkins: I say that big talk's worth doodly-squat. Now, them poultices be laced with feathermoss and mustard root. Mind you drop water on 'em occasional and keep 'em damp.
Granny Hawkins: You can pay me when you see me again, Josey Wales.
Josey Wales: I reckon so
Carpetbagger: Your young friend could use some help. [holds up a bottle of patent medicine]
Carpetbagger: This is it... one dollar a bottle. It works wonders on wounds.
Josey Wales: Works wonders on just about everything, eh?
Carpetbagger: It can do most anything.
Josey Wales: [spits tobacco juice on the carpetbagger's coat] How is it with stains?
Josey Wales: When I get to likin' someone, they ain't around long.
Lone Watie: I notice when you get to dislikin' someone they ain't around for long neither.
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Sorry for the OT, perhaps we should start a thread in the Cinema circle, but just a note than in the book there is no carpetbagger character, and Granny doesn't say, "You know what I say?"... "I say that big talk's worth doodly-squat.", and "You can pay me when you see me again, Josey Wales." Which puts a whole new outlook on her attitude (the rest of the dialog is accurate). The ferryman had already been paid with five gold sovereigns from the bank Jamie and Josey had just robbed, which is where Jamie had been wounded in the botched getaway.
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Hey guys,
Just wondering where the T@W is now?
Impressions?
Chris
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Hey guys,
Just wondering where the T@W is now?
Impressions?
Chris
Should be at it's new stop today.
I thought it was about as good as it gets for a preamp. Quiet, deep and wide soundstage. Details to die for without being forward.
Off to dig through the couch cushions for some money to buy one.
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John, your great sense on how to set-up your system and room made it all happen for you. My simple advice to all is, "You know what you like (or dislike) when you hear it..."
My setup is a bit interesting...I can't wait to get into my house next month! The look may be a bit cluttered but the sound is balanced. Once I got the left/right imagery balanced it was all fine. Funny how exaggerated the imbalance was to me: that says a lot about the fact that at that time the only change was the Warpspeed. And it says how important room treatments can be in odd shaped rooms (balance being so key).
The Warpspeed is really growing on me. The detail and tonal balance is really pleasing to listen to. Sometimes every album sounds similar (kind of a "house" sound) but with the Warpspeed, there isn't that house sound...the music really shows through. I don't think I'll be going back to a conventional volume control.
Like I said, the Warpspeed is really starting to become a key component in the system.
John
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was inquiring with Allan today about matching the optocoupler and set amp and he suggested I post question here.
...so is anyone using an Optocoupler with SET amp - mine is 300b. If so how is match - real question is which dilithium crystals are you using with your set?
David
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I have the Warpspeed with an SET amp, its a great match.
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My Warpspeed is being used with a lightly modified Bottlehead Stereomour 2A3 SET amp...a very nice combo! I am driving a set of OB speakers with the bass being driven by plate amps coming off the crossover. I have two parallel outputs and will try driving the bass directly off the Warpspeed someday. :thumb:
John
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I ran the touring model with a pair of single-ended el84 mono blocks with great results. Was a truly transparent combination.
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My Warpspeed is being used with a lightly modified Bottlehead Stereomour 2A3 SET amp...a very nice combo! I am driving a set of OB speakers with the bass being driven by plate amps coming off the crossover. I have two parallel outputs and will try driving the bass directly off the Warpspeed someday. :thumb:
John
Are you running the plate amps from the speaker outputs of the SET?
Thanks John
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Just reconfirming...
I hadn't been able to use my Warpspeed for about two weeks because my battery/charger system had failed and I just had no time to take care of it. Bought the batteries and charger from users here on AC.
So back today with new batteries and a voltmeter, everything's running fine, looks like my batteries were bad...
And re-inserting the Warpspeed into the system and turning it on... an explosion of clarity and full spectrum improvement, just like I heard when I first tried it. Wow!
So far I keep hitting it out the park with my gear choices. This is a crucial piece in my system. Everyone should try the Warpspeed. It's amazing.
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My Warpspeed is being used with a lightly modified Bottlehead Stereomour 2A3 SET amp...a very nice combo! I am driving a set of OB speakers with the bass being driven by plate amps coming off the crossover. I have two parallel outputs and will try driving the bass directly off the Warpspeed someday. :thumb:
John
I'm driving my sub directly off the WS and I can assure you the improvement is pretty cool. Tightens it up nicely.
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Questions about batteries!
Ok, so my charger is working and I have two brand new AGM batteries that are taking and holding charge well.
1) So the little 9V battery pack that was sent on the tour is surprisingly still running. However, when I got my initial pair of 12volt SLA's... they didn't last more than a couple days each.. I figured it was my charger, but it ended up the batteries. Not sure what happened there, don't think they were new.
But now I have a pair of new AGM 12 volt 1.3ah batteries and my charger is the CTEK 800. Anyway, the first question is... when should I charge?
I know the battery is supposed to last a long time, at least the little tour 9V Duracell battery pack sure did, or is but not sure if these rechargeables have the same staying power.
Currently the one I'm using now is reading 12.54 volts (got a meter too). Is there a certain voltage I'm supposed to check for for when to start recharging? And how many hours should I expect on the WS before I do so?
2) My CTEK also has the optional ringlet eyelet adapters so I can "supposedly" keep the battery on constant charge, while I'm using it. But there is no way to have those attached AND have the battery connected to the WS at the same time. Unless there's some kind of trick to it? Every time I try placing the eyelets around the battery + and - and then try attaching the leads to the WS, it all falls apart, they don't fit well together. Am I supposed to bend something or force them together? I don't want to break anything, but it seems impossible to keep that all attached, it all falls apart if you barely touch it set up that way. Doesn't seem safe at all. How are you guys doing it?
...Had my stereo playing all night, Hell of a good sound, the WS makes such an improvement :thumb:
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Are you running the plate amps from the speaker outputs of the SET?
Thanks John
John,
I'm running the two Rythmik's off the crossover (low pass on the crossover that goes to the mid-woofers and parallel line level to the plate amps in stereo). I haven't even wanted to try out the RCA connection direct from the Warpspeed yet...it sounds great as is but I'm wanting to hear a comparison, just not had time to play with it (I'd rather listen that fuss right now).
John
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I'm driving my sub directly off the WS and I can assure you the improvement is pretty cool. Tightens it up nicely.
I will take a listen that way soon. I have had a few tube amps that fell short on bass but my parafeed 2A3 is great with bass, as are my very nice crossovers (uses very high end parts: alpha core and Mundorf silver/oil). I will take a listen and hope it is even better because that would be GREAT!
But now I have a pair of new AGM 12 volt 1.3ah batteries and my charger is the CTEK 800. Anyway, the first question is... when should I charge?
Sorry, I don't know but I'm interested in the answer (i.e. minimum voltage for quality operation). However, I'm using a Panasonic SLA 12v 7.2aH battery and I'm thinking this will run a very long time between charges! Here is what I got and now all I need to do is build a little box to cover it...should be a fun/easy project!
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LC-R127R2P1-battery-lead-acid/dp/B0002ILJX2/ref%3dsr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318202010&sr=8-2 (http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LC-R127R2P1-battery-lead-acid/dp/B0002ILJX2/ref%3dsr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318202010&sr=8-2)
Like you, I'm loving my WS with every album I've tried!
John
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John,
I'm running the two Rythmik's off the crossover (low pass on the crossover that goes to the mid-woofers and parallel line level to the plate amps in stereo). I haven't even wanted to try out the RCA connection direct from the Warpspeed yet...it sounds great as is but I'm wanting to hear a comparison, just not had time to play with it (I'd rather listen that fuss right now).
John
Makes sense, so in this way you are not passing through any high frequency stuff to the plate amps that way. Cool.
I have tried both:
1) direct from the CARINA speaker outputs to the plate amps, and
2) from the Warpspeed RCA out to the RCA in's of the Rythmik's.
I can't say I actually notice a big difference. The CARINA is great on bass as well, so this may be part of it.
When I had first upgraded to the 2 Rythmik plate amps, I was having trouble getting enough gain running off of the CARINA. I then doubled up the wires from each CARINA speaker output to the plate amps. This way each plate amp gets 4 wires coming into it (2 positive and 2 negative). These doubled up wires cured the gain issue.
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Thank you to all the Warpspeed users who are sharing their experiences here...please keep it up!
I would like to share pics of the very first V8.2 Balanced with separate L/R volume controls:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53987)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53988)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=53989)
Happy owner is most welcome to chime in...
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That's a beauty! :thumb:
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Rclark,
Just reread the thread and found the answer to your question: you replace when the voltage drops to 6V (see WarpspeedCE's answer, below).
John
You need a DC voltmeter to measure voltage on one of the batteries...replace when at 6V or so. All 4 are in parallel so will measure all the same.
Aaah-hem...
Questions about batteries!
Ok, so my charger is working and I have two brand new AGM batteries that are taking and holding charge well.
1) So the little 9V battery pack that was sent on the tour is surprisingly still running. However, when I got my initial pair of 12volt SLA's... they didn't last more than a couple days each.. I figured it was my charger, but it ended up the batteries. Not sure what happened there, don't think they were new.
But now I have a pair of new AGM 12 volt 1.3ah batteries and my charger is the CTEK 800. Anyway, the first question is... when should I charge?
I know the battery is supposed to last a long time, at least the little tour 9V Duracell battery pack sure did, or is but not sure if these rechargeables have the same staying power.
Currently the one I'm using now is reading 12.54 volts (got a meter too). Is there a certain voltage I'm supposed to check for for when to start recharging? And how many hours should I expect on the WS before I do so?
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Thanks John...
Rclark and I have been on pm and for the benefit of others here's my reply:
"A topped off battery usually drains faster then levels at a certain voltage...my alkalines have been hovering at 11.55V for a month now after starting at 12.11V and almost 9 months now into use.
You can even go lower to 6V before charging...very low current demand.
I have only tested with 6V without any objective difference on performance. I have not listened using a 6V supply so I don't have a subjective opinion if that's what you're asking...it will still work though."
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You can even go lower to 6V before charging...very low current demand.
So, what is the preferred or optimum voltage to use with the WS?
Regarding that 9V battery pack, are you using one 9V at a time? The traveling WS battery pack reads 9.55 volts. Sorry, just a little confused about that.
Thanks!
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If this is the case and I can let it go to 6V, then I expect the one battery to last ages before recharging. Meanwhile I'm going to still try and figure out how I can connect the charger and battery and WS so I can just leave it on 24/7. So far there's no easy way to do this with the adapters I have.
Either way I'm set. I always have one fresh battery ready to go. But I don't expect to need it for some time now.
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I use 12V to calibrate the 'Squid. It will work between 6V thru 24V...objective performance doesn't matter with any battery supply value as the 'Squid will regulate it -convenience and availability will probably drive a user's decision more on what value to use.
A fresh battery will always read higher but depending on the load it will discharge faster until it plateaus to a certain level where it will remain for quite a while. 9.55V was the initial battery voltage reading of the 9V 4x in parallel on the Neutrino.
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A topped off battery usually drains faster then levels at a certain voltage...my alkalines have been hovering at 11.55V for a month now after starting at 12.11V and almost 9 months now into use.
OK, I think I understand now. Four 9V alkalines wired in parallel = 9V or a little more. Wow, this thing must only sip on the current.
Thanks for the explanation. :D
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It really does.
I mean I ... got my time in :lol: and I was the first guy. I easily put 50 hours on in in those 7 days. and it's still going strong on the tour.
But I'm also a battery noob so now at least I have parameters to use with my own setup.
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I've had a built version for about a month & still don't have a battery pack. I'm running a single 9V at a time.
I've replaced the battery 1x, had many hours on it.
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If I'm reading this correctly: take a 9V battery, get a snap on connector, hook the cable assembly that comes with the pre-built unit onto the two leads of the 9V snap on connector, and you're in business. If you want to run in parallel, that's pretty easy too.
Do I have it right? I should have paid more attention in my Grade 9 electronics class.
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If I'm reading this correctly: take a 9V battery, get a snap on connector, hook the cable assembly that comes with the pre-built unit onto the two leads of the 9V snap on connector, and you're in business. If you want to run in parallel, that's pretty easy too.
Do I have it right? I should have paid more attention in my Grade 9 electronics class.
Here's a link to help you understand the difference in series and parallel battery configurations.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/serial_and_parallel_battery_configurations
Yes, I think you have it right. Just make certain that if you use more than one battery, you connect them in parallel. That will provide you with the same voltage, just more of it like a much larger 9v battery.
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I wonder how big the power connector is on the back of the pre-built units?
5.5mm?
http://www.creativelightings.com/9V-Battery-Clip-Snap-with-2-1-x-5-5-mm-DC-Plug-p/cl-ps9v-2.1m-coax.htm
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I suggest you send a PM and forward that link to Allan or Trung and find out. I don't know for sure, but maybe someone else will chime in.
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Unfortunately, no. The right one would be a 2.5 x 5.5mm N-type plug.
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...The right one would be a 2.5 x 5.5mm N-type plug.
Yes...
Parallel keeps the voltage the same but doubles the battery life, 2 in series to double the voltage but battery life is like a single battery cell.
I use alkaline 1.5V D cells...2 sets in parallel, with 8 in series per one set for a stout, long lasting 12V supply.
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I have had the traveling "neutrino" for a few days now and have spent about 3 hours listening to it. So far, I really like what I am hearing. First it is dead quiet. Second, perhaps because of the lowered noise floor, everything seems to be more resolved and clear. I can more clearly hear the jingles (zils?) on a tambourine in the background. Applause sounds like people clapping rather than rain on a tin roof. Lastly, on several of the CDs I played, it was easier to place instruments.
I did miss the warmth of my Dodd buffer. I haven't tried the two in combination yet. Hopefully, I will have time over the holidays.
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Please do report on that I'll be really curious. Trung has said the effect is pretty much just rounder sound, and since I have a sub I don't need it.
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I've got the WS hooked up in front of a Bottlehead 2A3 amp...all that old school big and simple triode tube magic really is a dream with the WS. The Dodd Buffer would have a similar impact...I'd say go for it if you have transistor amps. You won't regret the sound quality, I'm sure. I say this because Trung hasn't steered me wrong yet! :lol:
John
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Happy Thanksgiving to all! :wine:
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Today, I tried the WS neutrino with the Dodd Buffer. Apart from a small problem (more later) all I can say about my listening session is WOW. With the Dodd running at full volume and the WS between the Dodd and the amp.... I got back all that I missed earlier without loosing any of the detail. The slight increase in warmth makes listening to female vocals such a pleasure. It seems to take just a bit of that edge when the singers hit the high notes. I wonder hoe much better the combination would be if I could simply incorporate the WS as the vol. control inside the buffer. This would bypass the Alps controller in the Dodd, plus all the extra connectors and ICs. (Is this possible Allan?)
Now the little problem I mentioned earlier. Nothing to do with the WS. But while trying different amp, pre and speaker combinations, My Rogue 88 tube amp started acting up and started making knocking sounds through the speakers. :cry: ( I have never moved faster than I did today as I dived to turn off that amp!!) I now have to figure out what's wrong with it. :cry:
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I think Trung has done that with his Dodd and enjoying it thoroughly...I'm not familiar with the Dodd's wiring and layout so I can't comment.
Most likely a rogue particle wreaking tube havoc... :scratch: http://www.nature.com/news/neutrino-experiment-replicates-faster-than-light-finding-1.9393
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Most likely a rogue particle wreaking tube havoc... :scratch: http://www.nature.com/news/neutrino-experiment-replicates-faster-than-light-finding-1.9393
Exactly what I was thinking...My speed to rush to turn the amp off was probably close to that speed as well. :lol:
I will check with Trung...thanks.
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I've got the WS hooked up in front of a Bottlehead 2A3 amp...all that old school big and simple triode tube magic really is a dream with the WS. The Dodd Buffer would have a similar impact...I'd say go for it if you have transistor amps. You won't regret the sound quality, I'm sure. I say this because Trung hasn't steered me wrong yet! :lol:
John
John,
Are you saying if one has a SS amp that the Dodd would be a better choice than the W/S?,, or that the Dodd with the W/S would be a better combo?
Chris
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Chris,
I'm saying both.
Because of a variety of reasons, including second order harmonics from tubes that add fullness and richness, there is a more natural sound from having tubes in your signal path. Others may disagree! :lol: Therefore, I think the Dodd buffer would help the SS amp sound even better than it does already (a general statement).
I also have to say the WS adds a certain clarity and soundstage not otherwise present (hidden by the switches in the system is my current theory...volume pots and selector switches). Therefore, I think the combo would be beneficial for two different reasons.
Bypassing the volume pot in the Dodd would be easy if you didn't want to remove the pot itself. Simply bypass it and add a 100K resistor (I use RPR "reds" in my 2A3 amp). Just saying...
Please don't ask which would be better if you only had one...they each would be wonderful, I'm sure. Of course, I have the WS only in my system... 8)
John
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John,
Thanks for the reply.
I had an all tube system for a while and last winter went back to an all SS set up.
I'm in the cue for the T@W unit, but it will not be until sometime next Feb that I can demo it. :icon_frown:
I have had resistor and TVC based passive preamps in the past, and can't wait to give the W/S a spin.
As it is I'm pretty satisfied with my current set up, but do feel the need to insert a valve somewhere in he chain.
Thanks again,
Chris
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I've been using a Goldpoint stepped attenuator that wired as a passive volume control for over a year with very good results. So I'm familiar with the sonics. The only thing that is lacking at times is drive.
I'm hoping that someone can comment on whether the WS provides more drive than other passives. I don't know how it could, being a passive device without a buffer, but I'm certainly willing to listen and learn. Perhaps, as previously stated, combining the WS with the Dodd inline tube buffer would do the trick. But, I'm thinking it will probably come down to personal preference and system synergy.
No doubt about clarity or transparency, since I've already heard a Lightspeed in my little system. I'm positive the WS sounds wonderful, and wonderful is probably enough for me. :thumb:
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It sounds BETTER than wonderful
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I received my Warpspeed V4 today. Since I won’t be able to do any extended critical listening for another few weeks, I decided to offer my initial impressions. Let’s start with the aesthetics. The build quality was exceptional and blends in quite well with my room decor. The chassis is larger than I expected, and that’s a good thing. I also like the huge silver volume knob.
The Warpspeed replaces an Axiom passive preamp. Prior to that, I’ve owned the Placette RVC, the Promitheus TVC, and a long list of active preamps. I’m powering a set of VMPS Tower II SE speakers with a badass Audio gd 300 watt amp. The source is a highly tricked out Bada tube CD player, and I’m supplementing the bass with an Onix 15” sub.
I popped in a CD and I was immediately blown away by what I heard. It seemed like there was a tremendous amount of power that was unleashed. Everything had more authority, including the vocalist. My system is laid back, and I was telling Allan before my unit arrived that my system sounded great, but lacked a bit of “uumph.” I always knew my system was capable of much more, and what I heard today vastly exceeded my expectations.
I don’t want to get into a long, drawn out discussion on the sonic merits of the Warpseed, but let me simply say that everything improved – dynamics, micro detail, soundstage, clarity, realism of instruments, etc. In fact, I thought I had cleaned up every vestige of muddy bass, but the Warpspeed proved me wrong. The bass was super tight and ultra clean.
Even though these comments are considered initial impressions, I can say, without hesitation, that after 12 years as an audiophile, the Warpspeed is the best component upgrade I’ve ever done.
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I popped in a CD and I was immediately blown away by what I heard. It seemed like there was a tremendous amount of power that was unleashed. Everything had more authority, including the vocalist. My system is laid back, and I was telling Allan before my unit arrived that my system sounded great, but lacked a bit of “uumph.” I always knew my system was capable of much more, and what I heard today vastly exceeded my expectations.
Early B, thanks for sharing your impressions. You said, My system is laid back, and I was telling Allan before my unit arrived that my system sounded great, but lacked a bit of “uumph.” It seemed like there was a tremendous amount of power that was unleashed. Everything had more authority, including the vocalist. So I take it that your system has sufficient "drive capability" with the Warpspeed, right? Well, I guess that answers my only question about this passive. (see two posts up).
That's good to know. I guess you just got an early Christmas gift! (pun intended) :thumb:
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I received my Warpspeed V4 today. Since I won’t be able to do any extended critical listening for another few weeks, I decided to offer my initial impressions. Let’s start with the aesthetics. The build quality was exceptional and blends in quite well with my room decor. The chassis is larger than I expected, and that’s a good thing. I also like the huge silver volume knob.
The Warpspeed replaces an Axiom passive preamp. Prior to that, I’ve owned the Placette RVC, the Promitheus TVC, and a long list of active preamps. I’m powering a set of VMPS Tower II SE speakers with a badass Audio gd 300 watt amp. The source is a highly tricked out Bada tube CD player, and I’m supplementing the bass with an Onix 15” sub.
I popped in a CD and I was immediately blown away by what I heard. It seemed like there was a tremendous amount of power that was unleashed. Everything had more authority, including the vocalist. My system is laid back, and I was telling Allan before my unit arrived that my system sounded great, but lacked a bit of “uumph.” I always knew my system was capable of much more, and what I heard today vastly exceeded my expectations.
I don’t want to get into a long, drawn out discussion on the sonic merits of the Warpseed, but let me simply say that everything improved – dynamics, micro detail, soundstage, clarity, realism of instruments, etc. In fact, I thought I had cleaned up every vestige of muddy bass, but the Warpspeed proved me wrong. The bass was super tight and ultra clean.
Even though these comments are considered initial impressions, I can say, without hesitation, that after 12 years as an audiophile, the Warpspeed is the best component upgrade I’ve ever done.
You've had some passives I've thought about owning including the Placette.
I certainly can concur with your comments regarding the increased dynamics, especially in the bass. Is the sub powered, and running directly off of the Warpspeed RCA's?
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:thumb: :thumb:
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^
:green: :thumb:
Had an incident! Guys don't let your batteries drop too low! I think this is what happened to my first two batteries only I didn't have a voltmeter to check for sure.
My whole experience with rechargeable batteries has been pretty painless. You know, cellphones, laptops, etc. These things, the battery meter can go all the way down, the device can die, but you always know you can just plug it in later and be good.
Not the case with these larger SLA or AGM batteries!
I was feeling cocky and let one of my AGM's stay on for about five days, plan was to run it down and charge it back fully. It sure ran down. Now with the benefit of my voltmeter I was able to check voltage. After a few days it had dropped from 12 volts down to around 8. I felt safe. A couple days later I checked and it was down to 3 :o.
Note, mine are 1.3ah. Anyway, thought, hey, no sweat, put it on the charger and placed my fresh battery on the Warpspeed.
Well, I charged that battery for a full day and a half and could not get it to come up past 4 volts. The charge light was very dim. Clearly, these battery types DO NOT come back if you let them drop too low.
So I took matters into my own hands and with my remaining battery... I pulled out the ringlet/eyelet adapter for my charger and just made it work. I took wire cutters to the eyelets and snipped them in half, then crimped these now opened eyelets onto the terminals, and then attached the leads to the Warpspeed.
Should have done this in the first place but I was waiting for someone to offer a more elegant solution.
regardless, I now have a constantly charging battery permanently attached to the warpspeed, as it is with my battery powered amp. No fuss, no muss. Sitting around 13.5 volts right now and running smoothly.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/iostream1/WP_000869.jpg)
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SLA and AGM batteries are not supposed to be run down fully. Keep them charged up.
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Best to use a smart charger like the ctek and keep the charger constantly connected.
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Yup, using the Ctek, and it is now constantly connected.
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For an elegant solution, make a 2 into 1 connection so that you have a harness on the battery that has 2 + and 2 - coming out of it. Put connections on the end for the warpspeed and the charger. I would just reterminate the charger with a connection that is better for your situation...
In my case I terminated the charger cord with a neutrik powercon to go to my battery box...
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SLA and AGM batteries are not supposed to be run down fully. Keep them charged up.
I had to kill three batteries to learn this. Wish I'd known.
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I listened to the Warpspeed briefly today, and the only complaint I have is that it's too good. If you have a mediocre recording, it may sound like crap with the Warpspeed. This statement is probably true with virtually any significant upgrade, but the Warpspeed is like a laser-precise x-ray device -- everything on the CD will be revealed. I have a favorite CD that was recorded "hot," i.e., it sounds brighter than my other CDs. The Warpspeed magnified the brightness because, well, that's what's on the recording. So if your CD collection (or whatever you've got) is replete with marginal recordings, toss them in the trash and don't blame what you hear on the Warpspeed. I thought I some of my previous preamps were very revealing, but each of them placed a tourniquet on the flow of my music.
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... I now have a constantly charging battery permanently attached to the warpspeed, as it is with my battery powered amp. No fuss, no muss. Sitting around 13.5 volts right now and running smoothly.
You are now essentially running the Warpspeed with power from the charger and not pure DC from the battery. A charger usually will not be the quietest, cleanest power source...and by the looks of the compact Ctek it's a switching power supply and not a linear old school one. High frequency noise is likely present at the output connectors now supplying your W'speed. It's still best to fullly charge your battery, disconnect charger, then connect battery to W'speed...turn OFF when not in use.
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I had to kill three batteries to learn this. Wish I'd known.
Best practice with SLA batteries is to use them and then charge them right away. The more topped up they are, the longer they'll last. Deep discharge will ruin the battery.
If I recall, the CTek charger has an automatic mode. This would let you keep the CTek connected all the time and it would only activate when necessary. Unfortunately, given that your battery is so run down and can't be recovered, I suspect automatic mode would leave the CTek continuously charging. Continuously charging is probably not what the CTek was meant to do.
I understand that 3 battery packs have been ruined now, and I don't understand the design parameters of the CTek, but I hope the next thing isn't that the CTek starts a fire trying to charge the un-chargeable battery.
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All this talk of failed SLA batteries caused me to check my battery: 12.24 DCV after 30 days of listening sessions. I'm glad I got a large battery but will continue to check it's voltage regularly. I have already posted this before but will post again for those who are looking for batteries to purchase. I'm using a Panasonic SLA 12v 7.2aH battery:
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LC-R127R2P1-battery-lead-acid/dp/B0002ILJX2/ref%3dsr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318202010&sr=8-2 (http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LC-R127R2P1-battery-lead-acid/dp/B0002ILJX2/ref%3dsr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318202010&sr=8-2)
John
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No you guys are not reading all of what I said.
First two batteries were sent to me charged. I didn't have a voltmeter, and didn't know you couldn't run the batteries down too far. I thought the charger was bad.
I used those batteries like any other rechargable I've ever used (cellphone, for example), run them, potentially all the way down, and at home put on the charger. But in doing that they died.
The third battery I was going to let go to six volts and then recharge (now that I had a voltmeter), but in my lack of vigilance and belief in the lifespan, it went to 3 volts and buh bye.
On just using the battery and charging it, and shutting the unit off, yeah I could do that. I would expect about a week and a half that way. I use mine a LOT. I mean I have my system playing music or even movies or games... hours and hours a day right now. I expect I will then need to get a larger than 1.3ah battery to satisfy me, a pair of those.
However I'm not noticing any degradation in quality with the charger attached.
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It sounds like the battery will go all day before a charge is necessary. My recommendation is to get a new battery, have the charger connected to it simultaneously but not charging. Before going to bed at night, turn the Warpspeed off, turn the charger on. A nightly charging regiment would work well here.
Anyway, as I said, not sure the CTek was designed to provide continuos power all day in the way you're using it now. You've heard of battery chargers that overheat and catch fire, right?
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However I'm not noticing any degradation in quality with the charger attached.
More of a concern for me -safety issues mentioned on top of course, is the WarpSquid failing because of the sudden pulsating, spiky nature of charging currents from the charger. The 'squid was designed to take in steady DC rather than AC-like input voltages/currents.
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One of these chargers is reliable and will only charge after the unit is turned off. You leave it connected to the battery all the time, but it only activates the charger after the Warpspeed is off. A green light indicates that the charger is floating, a red light indicates that it is charging. You'd need to get a charger cord with it, only about $2 for that. Seems like a nice solution to "top off" your SLA over night.
http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-500ma-sealed-lead-acid-battery-charger-2.html
Anything from a 1.2 Ah to a 5 Ah 12 volt SLA should work great.
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Oh the CTek is among the best as far as I know, people use it on their Ferrari batteries to keep them topped up (was googling them before I bought)! It's designed to be left attached permanently for months and months and months.
It's a very "smart" unit. CTEK 800.
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There's no problem with keeping a charger attached. Even attached to a Ferrari's battery. But it isn't charging all the time, and it does not act as the power source for the Ferrari. In your case, I presume it's in a perpetual state of charging as the voltage of your SLA battery never reaches the threshold where the charger would turn off. Further, while the battery (not just those sold with a Ferrari) can withstand the uneven current of a charger, the Warpspeed may not be similarly robust.
It's a free country and up to you. I personally would not use the depleted battery that you're now using. I'm not an expert, but this doesn't seem like a good idea.
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Who's using a depleted battery? I don't wanna repeat all that over again for a third time. :D.
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Considering the small amount of DC required by the Warpspeed, and the current capacity of an SLA, it should be a simple matter to top off the battery every now and then. I refer back to InfernoSTi comment, "12.24 DCV after 30 days of listening sessions."
However often you choose to recharge, just remember that SLA's don't like to run down and be recharged. If you turn it off a night, it should run a long time that way.
I'll refer to this previous comment, "....my alkalines have been hovering at 11.55V for a month now after starting at 12.11V and almost 9 months now into use."
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I think thats what I'll do, since it's now permanently attached. I'll run it off charger, and simple matter to plug the charger in at night.
I will also buy a larger capacity battery as a new spare, and recycle these three dead ones.
This page will be invaluable for battery noobs. Heck, this part of the thread should be a sticky, we should have a sticky for HOW TO CARE FOR BATTERY POWERED COMPONENTS, since a lot of us are heading in this direction with our gear. It's the way to go.
Trung takes it to the ultimate: he's got it all rigged up to a solar panel!
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I just tried it plugged in and unplugged and didn't notice a difference in SQ. I think the Ctek is fine. And my speakers are Magnepans, very revealing of such noise.
My speakers I just shipped off to be modded. They will come back much higher resolution and much higher in efficiency. If anything changes, I will report it. But for now, seems fine to leave them plugged in.
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I think thats what I'll do, since it's now permanently attached. I'll run it off charger, and simple matter to plug the charger in at night.
I think that's a better way to go...turn the charger OFF when playing music. I think your Ah capacity right now is enough to keep you smiling all day?
Here's what I was talking about re chargers connected while the Warpspeed is ON... http://www.energymatters.com.au/images/ctek/XS800.pdf. Page 2 shows the pulsing and spiky charge voltage/currents after absorption. This happens when the CTek detects the voltage has gone down, and is a way for it to maintain the nominal battery voltage value and current capacity. I'd rather not have the 'squid fed with sea urchins, you know it might bleed black ink!:)
Thank y'all for your inputs!
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Can someone explain in layman's terms how the Warpspeed works? I read all of the related AC and DIYaudio threads, but the explanations are very technical. Explain it as though you're speaking to someone who is no smarter than a fifth grader. Why is an LDR superior to a typical resistor? What makes this thing sound so damn good?
Thanks.
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Who's using a depleted battery? I don't wanna repeat all that over again for a third time.
Oh, I see! You're on your fourth battery. I thought you ran down three batteries and was using the third even though it was depleted. I didn't know you had a fourth that was in good shape.
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Yeah, I managed to catch my mistake before wasting another $20 :thumb:
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For an elegant solution, make a 2 into 1 connection so that you have a harness on the battery that has 2 + and 2 - coming out of it. Put connections on the end for the warpspeed and the charger. I would just reterminate the charger with a connection that is better for your situation...
In my case I terminated the charger cord with a neutrik powercon to go to my battery box...
perfect, and thank you.
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I'd like to know what amps you guys are using with your Warpspeed? Regardless, everyone seems very pleased with it's performance.
I've been told that the Warpspeed seems to work well with amps whose input impedance is lower than what is normally considered passive friendly.
Tube amps will usually be 100K ohms or higher and should easily be compatible with the Warpspeed. However, I'd like to hear from those of you who are using SS amps with a lower input impedance in the 20K's or 30K's. Of course your IC's will need to have low capacitance and not be very long. I use one meter or less.
Thanks for your input. :D
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Virtue 2.2 highpassed with ClarityCaps on batteries. The combo is beyond superb.
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I have an emotiva mps-1 which I am using with the traveling WS neutrino since my Rogue tube amp developed a problem. The mps-1 has 20K ohm input impedance. The WS has no problem driving this.
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Bottlehead 2A3 amp with no volume pot (uses 100K resistors to ground). Amp lightly modified with Mundorf silver/oil caps at parafeed and coupling. Lovely.
John
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I have an emotiva mps-1 which I am using with the traveling WS neutrino since my Rogue tube amp developed a problem. The mps-1 has 20K ohm input impedance. The WS has no problem driving this.
Were you using the Emotiva amp with or without the Dodd buffer? If you have a chance, see what difference you hear with and without the buffer in place. If the Warpspeed is driving the 20K Emotive without a buffer and still gives the same amazing results, that is awesome!
Bottlehead 2A3 amp with no volume pot (uses 100K resistors to ground). Amp lightly modified with Mundorf silver/oil caps at parafeed and coupling. Lovely.
John
John, I would expect that your tube amp would be a perfect match for the Warpspeed... and lovely, too!
Virtue 2.2 highpassed with ClarityCaps on batteries. The combo is beyond superb.
Do you happen to have any specs with the Virtue amp that gives the input impedance? That would be helpful. Of course, it is a mute point if the signal is also going through the Dodd buffer.
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Were you using the Emotiva amp with or without the Dodd buffer? If you have a chance, see what difference you hear with and without the buffer in place. If the Warpspeed is driving the 20K Emotive without a buffer and still gives the same amazing results, that is awesome!
Yes. I tried it both ways and the WS sounds terrific. I still like it paired with the Dodd because of the slightly warm mids and a little tamed highs.
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"slightly warm mids and a little tamed highs"
Hmm, that's what Trung said too. Sounds like the WS pretty much gets you where you need to be.
Not sure if adding the buffer would be worth another $300 + another $100 for a tube + $85 for battery and charger, not for minor changes in sound. Good to know, I feel like I can pass on it and am not missing out on anything.
Think I'll go another route and try the battery buffer on my WS and amp instead. Maybe have a Bybee Rail done with the batteries too. Make quailitative changes, lower the noise floor, increase dimensionality, not merely add flavor.
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Rclark,
Gary has a more basic buffer which is a lot less- $150! Check it out. Plus you can use the same battery for both!
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That's the one I was referring to. Ok so 150 instead of 300.
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So i have been playing with a number of amp, buffer, WS neutrino combinations for a couple of hours now. (I got my tube amp back on with a different set of power tubes). Only one CD was used.... Eva Cassidy - Songbird.
So first I tried the neutrino with the emotiva mps-1 (SS, 200w at 8 ohm, Class H). As i reported before no problem driving the amp. Very nice overall but just a little harsh on the treble. Particularly noticeable on the track "Wade in the Water". The emo mps-1 is a mellow solid-state ...I used to own an emo xpa-2 and the mps-1 is just so much more refined. Perhaps the extra detail from the WS was too much for this amp. While I loved listening to the detail it was a bit fatiguing.
Next up was the neutrino with the Rogue 88 tube amp. The Rogue 88 is not a very tubey amp ..just a nice touch of warmth in the mids. And sure enough the WS and Rogue combination was more pleasant than the emotiva amp. The difference was more noticeable at higher volumes.
Next I added the Dodd buffer between the cdp and the WS. And the magic was back. I am not sure why but the buffer added just that little bit more weight to the mids and took the edge of the highs. All the detail is still there but now it just sounds so much better. Nothing fatiguing about the sound. Even the highs seemed to have more body.
I then tried the Dodd-WS-Emo combination. Still very nice. I liked the rogue 88 in the chain better but the difference is subtle. With the emo amp a bit of the treble harshness was back, but not as fatiguing as before.
Lastly, I went back to the Dodd-Rogue combo without the WS. Still beautiful sound but a little less detail and clarity. Both the WS and the Dodd are dead quiet...possibly because the are both battery powered.
One other interesting thing I noticed using the WS. For some reason the soundstage height using the neutrino is much higher than without. I noticed it when I first got the tour unit and plugged it in but now when I took it out of the chain it is even more apparent.
I have the WS for the weekend, and after playing audiofool for the last couple of hours, I am going to put the Dodd-WS-Rogue combo back together and enjoy music the rest of the time.
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USP, great post with very helpful information about how the WS, amp, and buffer
interact. Thanks for taking the time. :D
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Huh. You might want to try a different amp, because magic is the only way I would describe it, and I don't have any tubes. Emotiva though, that makes sense. I just sold my XDA-1 dac to step up to something better. Not familiar with Rogue, but sounds like you should stick with that one.
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Some models to look forward to this coming year...for those using common power amps both for music and for HT (L/R fronts) thru a multi-channel processor/receiver:
V4bp - 1-In Line, 1-In Bypass/2-Out(paralleled) Stereo Unbalanced only
V4x2bp - 2-In Line, 1-In Bypass/2-Out(paralleled) Stereo Unbalanced only
Credit goes to clearlight for asking me to develop these...Thanks David!
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Will be watching. Sorry I had to hop out of line on the tour. Life just kind of got in the way and didn't want to hold things up. Since there's one convert in town now, I'll have the chance at some point to hopefully have it in my system to try.
Bryan
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Hi Everyone,
I'm the next person in line to try out the Warpspeed. I've had it for the last several days, but have been having some trouble. When I received it, Allan asked that I check the battery charge to see if it was time to install new batteries. I measured the voltage at 4.98 VDC. This was below the 6 volt threshold so new batteries were needed. Since the stores were closed at the time, Allan suggested that I try it out anyway with the lower voltage. In my system, with KEF 207/2 speakers, a pair of Rogue M180 monoblocks and a Phillips CD-80 CD player sitting nearby (to keep the cables short) I thought the sound was on the bright side. The bass and highs were there, but the overall balance seemed not quite right. I didn't listen too long that night.
The following day I bought new batteries. I installed them and the voltage for the battery pack was now at 9.68 VDC. I installed the Warpspeed back in the system and the balance seemed to be much better now. The sound was very transparent and there was a lot of detail. But then a channel dropped out. I shut the system down and unplugged and replugged all the interconnects. I was still missing the left channel. I changed to another set of cables and still had the same problem. Then I decided that it might be the source that was an issue so I fired up the turntable. I still had no left channel. That's where things ended last night.
Today, I decided to install the Warpspeed in my equipment rack. This won't allow me to use the Rogue amplifiers (due to cable lengths getting too long), but I could use the amplifier portion of an integrated amp. This is the Yamaha A-S2000 that I've had for a few months. It's a very nice integrated. Although it doesn't offer the highest possible sound quality, it sounds good and has been a joy to use because it doesn't have any quirks like pops, buzzes, or hum. You can't always say that about audiophile equipment. It also has a great remote that allows the volume to be adjusted in very small increments. I've had audiophile preamps that I've tried that had remote volume controls that jumped 3-8dB per click of the remote. I have no idea what a manufacturer is thinking when they provide that kind of remote functionality.
Anyway, I installed the Warpspeed in the system with the Yamaha integrated. In this configuration my source changed to computer audio. I've got a 2010 Mac Mini running with Pure Music. The DAC is a Music Streamer II Plus that's connected to the computer with a Tranquility Signature USB cable. Initially this combination sounded excellent. Very transparent, with great detail and speed. Tonal balance was very good too, but maybe just a little brighter (too transparent?) than I'd like. Finding that "just right" balance between detail/transparency and musicality is difficult. I find myself tipping in one direction for a while, then adjusting back in the other direction. Perhaps I'd be one of those people that would appreciate the addition of a Dodd buffer after the Warpspeed.
But it wasn't long before I started experiencing some sputtering noises in my system. It sounded like stuttering, or motorboating type sounds. Fortunately this wasn't at a very loud level and I wasn't concerned about damaging my speakers. If I turned the volume down, the loudness of the sputtering noise decreased. It would last for about 5 seconds, then it would clear up and sound normal. A few minutes later I'd get the sputtering again. I'm not sure what was causing the problem, but since the Music Streamer II Plus DAC is only a few days old (it arrived the same day as the Warpspeed), I decided to replace it with another USB DAC, the EMU 0404. That DAC had always worked fine in the past so I knew I'd be able to determine if the new DAC was the issue or not. But, after installing the EMU DAC I had low output on the left channel. The gain on the left channel was low enought that initially I thought there was no output. From the listening seat, I only heard the right channel. So, I removed and replugged the wires again but still had the same problem. I changed cables to another type and the problem remained.
So this is where things stand tonight. I'm going to take a break and try again tomorrow.
In the meantime, I'd like to ask a couple of questions of the group and Allan.
1. Have any of the previous users experienced the issue of low output on the left channel or intermittant sputtering sounds from both channels?
2. Allan, do you think the Warpspeed is even capable of causing these types of issues?
Prior to installing the new DAC and the Warpspeed, I hadn't experienced these issues. If I had to guess at this point, I suspect the computer is the cause of the sputtering, but it's never happened before. Tomorrow I'll install other sources like the turntable or FM tuner in place of the computer and try again.
All the Best,
Bob
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Bob,
Sorry to hear you are having so many problems. I did experience one episode where I had a rapid rat-a-tat-a-tat sound from the left channel. But I attributed it to problems in my Rogue 88 amp. It is an older amp and it may still be the problem. I did not experience any issues once I switched to a SS amp. I also did not notice any issues with low output from any channel. Incidentally, the Rogue seems to be behaving itself now after swapping out the power tubes.
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usp1,
Thanks for your feedback regarding both issues.
When I experienced the sputtering sound, I thought it was coming from both channels, but I could be wrong about that. It lasted for a few seconds then returned to normal. When you encountered the sound that you thought came from your Rogue amplifiers, did that sound clear up after a few seconds, or did you need to switch off the system for it to stop? If it cleared up after a few seconds, we may have had a similar issue. But if you needed to shut down the amps to get it to stop, then it may not be the same.
Bob
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G'day Warpspeed,
Can you pm me please? Don't seem to want to work is all....
Enquiring re the RC Version in 2012....
Thanks,
Drew.
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Bob,
It was very loud and I ran to turn it off. The sound persisted when I restarted the amp so I took the amp out of the system for a while. My problem may be different from what you are experiencing.
Also, the addition of the Dodd buffer did help a lot. As some one explained to me the buffer probably helped with impedance issues.
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Have you tried taking the Warpspeed out of your system, only using your CDP, AMP and SPEAKERS. If all works well and you have strong left and right output, insert the Warpspeed after the CDP, then to the amp and the speakers.
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roymail,
That make sense. I'll do that tomorrow.
Bob
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I didn't experience any such issues. Still madly in love with mine.
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G'day Warpspeed,
Can you pm me please? Don't seem to want to work is all....
Enquiring re the RC Version in 2012....
Thanks,
Drew.
Drew, you'll be able to use all the the site features after your next post, security measures to make sure humans are posting, not bots. Welcome aboard.
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Hi Bob,
I'm sorry the W'speed is not matching up really well in your system. After reading thru the Stereophile measurement section of the review here... http://www.stereophile.com/content/rogue-audio-m-180-monoblock-power-amplifier-measurements, I suspect it is the W'speed/Rogue combo causing it. Have you tried both Ultralinear and Triode modes of the Rogue?
Looking at Figures 1 and 2 compares the frequency response in both modes and you can see some ultrasonic peaking on Fig 1 when in Ultralinear mode, which might explain the brightness that you hear -especially if your speakers' tweeters are capable of passing these high frequencies. In Triode mode the response is much milder with rounded high frequency response but still extended with -3dB at around 50kHz.
Figures 3 and 4 are the 10kHz square wave responses which again shows the ultrasonic peak in Ultralinear mode. Peaks like these can cause some oscillation which will be high frequency ringing at the tweeters and will be brightness and fatigue for listeners. Highish distortion typical on tube power amps will also help the mix more potent.
Previously what preamp or vol control did you use? Since it's only the W'speed added into your system mix, it could be exacerbating the situation.
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First, to answer the questions that Allan asked previously:
1. My regular preamp is a Canary C800 tube preamp. I don’t currently have another passive.
2. I tried both the Ultralinear and Triode options on the Rogue M180 amps. I usually run the amps in Ultralinear, but I switched to Triode for most of the time I was using the Warpspeed with the Rogues.
Now, to continue my story.
After taking a break on Sunday (I watched NFL football all day and into the night), I returned to my audio system and the Warpspeed last night. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to be successful in getting the Warpspeed to work properly. As Allan mentioned, there may be a mismatch with my Rogue tube amplifiers that prevents me from hearing the best that the Warpspeed can offer. But, I don’t think that’s been the main cause of the issues I’ve had. For a brief period the other night, I think I was hearing a lot of what the Warpspeed can do. Unfortunately that didn’t last very long.
Last night I started by connecting the Warpspeed to my computer’s DAC and then to the power amp section of my Yamaha A-S2000 integrated amp. Once again I had problems with low output on the left channel. Next I hooked up my Phillips CD-80 CD player to the Warpspeed in place of the computer and had the same result. To make sure that it wasn’t a defective input on the amplifier that was at fault, I connected the CD player directly to that same input (the CD-80 has a variable output). I was still using only the amplifier section of the integrated. The system played normally in that configuration. I also tried swapping out the cables, first one brand for another, then finally swapping the left and right cables. The issue always stayed with the left channel of the Warpspeed.
Last night I didn’t experience the stuttering sound that I encountered previously, but I did have two other issues.
1. The Warpspeed’s volume control could not completely turn off the sound coming from the right channel. At its minimum setting, the sound level on the right channel was still suitable for background listening. That hadn’t been the case previously. Previously the sound was completely off when the knob was fully CCW. When turning the volume up, it would take nearly a full revolution of the volume control before I could hear any sound. A normal “loud” listening level would be achieved within another half rotation (or less).
2. The other thing that happened was that I noticed that the power light on my Yamaha integrated amp was flashing; an indication that the amp had switched into “protection” mode.
At that point I removed the Warpspeed from my system.
I think the Warpspeed volume control has been damaged. I inspected the internal connections to see if there were any broken wires (Allan has a plexi-glass panel installed on the bottom side which makes it easy to see inside the unit). Everything looked fine inside. When I received the package, it was well packed and the outer box didn’t show any evidence of rough treatment. But at this point, the Warpspeed has been shipped quite a few times… I think I’m the 6th person to receive it. It’s a small package and is light weight. It wouldn’t surprise me if it’s been tossed around a few times along the way.
I think all the problems I’ve encountered have been related to the volume control:
1. The low/lack of output on the left channel.
2. The inability to fully turn the volume down on the right channel.
3. The Yamaha amp going into protection mode when connected to the Warpspeed.
4. I even suspect the sputtering playback was caused by the interaction of my computer or DAC with the Warpspeed volume control. Both my DAC’s (the EMU and Music Streamer II Plus) have behaved normally in the last couple of days.
Allan, is there anything else that you’d like me to check while I have the unit? I’ve got a digital meter and can check resistances on the volume control at various positions of the knob if that would be helpful.
Bob
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Tough luck on this one Bob! Unfortunately all things electronic can suffer this fate -I hope senders' have been labeling it "Fragile". I also label my other shipments with "Please Handle with Care"...well after considerable mileage I think it's time for it to come back to the bat cave. With a pristine box we can't claim USPS insurance either.
I guess I'll spend Christmas with it on the bench...I'll email you my address.
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The Warpspeed has been sent back to Allan to be repaired. According to the Post Office, he could have it by Friday. I look forward to learning what went wrong.
By the way, when I received the package, it was marked "Fragile". When I returned it to Allan I added additional "Fragile" labels on several sides of the box.
Bob
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Don't you know "Fragile" means "throw as far as you can and laugh heartily" at UPS, USPS, and FedEx? I thought this was well known and why I never mark anything "Fragile". BTW, for anyone who has watched Christmas Story, we can only pronounce it as "Fra-gee-lay" to this day.
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The demo unit is very delicate, it reminded me of an antique piece of avionics for some reason (I actually loved the look and wanted to keep it). Who knows what can happen in six stops across the country.
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I have the neutrino back at pit stop...Thanks Bob. I'll check it tomorrow.
I received this reaction from an owner who got his unit last Friday morning...
"Ok so I went home for an extended lunch today so that I could listen to the V4 and my god!! I have never in my three decades of listening to great stereo gear have I heard or better yet experienced this level of pure listening satisfaction. I have owned names like Krell, ARC, Cary, to name a few non have gotten me to this level of realism. The Warpspeed is something very special Allan. Thank You!"
8)
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Daddy WS,
When the WS gets back on the road again, where will it be on the current list of listeners? And, can I get added to the list? You know I'd like to try it in my little setup.
Thanks, and Merry Christmas to all!
- Roy
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Heck I think you outta make a couple demo units and an expanded list. These things sell themselves.
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Roy, the neutrino is currently grounded. Initial evaluation points to the right channel series LDR with intermittent fault. I haven't found the time to open and test more thoroughly. At this time I don't have a timetable on getting it back on the demo track.
Rclark, 8)...I'll keep a keen eye for your order :thumb:
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Oh you want me to buy one from you? Well, when you make one with a remote, I'll go full retail. Sorry, but I took the more economical route, have someone build mine from your kit. I still have bigger fish to fry, system wize, before I can spring for a fancy wood box. I paid $270, in hindsite maybe I should have just bought your plug and play first, but whatever. However, I'm sure that there are lots of people, thanks to this thread, have purchased and will purchase from you directly. It sure has seen some hits :thumb:
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I'm one of those lurkers who has purchased a finished unit from Allan. Wasn't on the listening list ... with the affordable purchase price was no brainer to try out in my system. I have it connected to a Mactone 300b and thoroughly enjoying the sound (with either Audio Note or Penaudio speakers). My favourite ex is a Bent Audio Tap and every reminiscent of this passive in my system - lots of clean 3d detail. It replaced a 5k Lamm active preamp and don't think I would be doing the deal back. Call me a WS fan boy.
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Rclark, I can't thank you enough for this Thread...no pressure, no worries...it's on me to deliver the design. Sharing the list with very reputable brands on the 3D preamp Thread at Tube-o-phile is already a great honor, thanks to happy owners like you.
David, thank you for giving it a try and loving it...just comparing it to high dollar designs are worth every effort on my part.
A number of souls have asked about alkalines...here's what you can assemble to cleanly power a V4 and will probably take you 6 months to drain...cheap and easy dual 9V cells in parallel (1 more of the battery holder and you have 4 in parallel like the Neutrino)... http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/760/SC1051-ND/109416 and http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/227/227K-ND/102776
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This thread was to satisfy my own curiousity, and boldly try out a new untested piece of gear. I love it so much, I certainly would, and could have bought a brand new one, but I had to save the extra 200 or so because this month I am spending several thousand dollars for my speaker's upgrades, which is a lot for me. A person here offered to sell me theirs and just build another for themself, so either way you benefit. :thumb:
Keep kicking butt Alan, I can imagine growing into your expanding line, and buying perhaps two full featured units down the road, the next one as an upgrade to the WS I have now, which I will sell, and another for the inevitable system two.
At this point the sound is so perfect, and the consensus is very much on board with you. Combined with your prices, I see no need to look elsewhere for my preamp needs.
I wish you the best of luck with the rest of the tour. My system 1 is almost finished and then I can be done with forums for some time and just enjoy the music.
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Peace and goodwill to everyone! Merry Christmas! :xmas:
Tonight, may your wine be chilled and your amps warm... :wine:
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Allan,
Happy and safe holidays to you and your family, and all who view here.
John
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Question; Is the Warpspeed control stepped or a continuous travel type pot?
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It is continuous.
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It is continuous.
Thanks!
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Happy New Year, John!
Peace and prosperity wishes to all in 2012...
jk@home, the W'speed has a continuous 1080 degrees of usable knob control. Covers the very low to the very high gain systems out there...
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Found some time to work on the Remote section and the updates are as follows:
-Units already out in the field will not be upgradeable to RC. The W'squid which contains the dual VCCS must be built, calibrated, and therefore married to its precision pot. Replacing the manual pot with the new motorized version will mess up the calibration points and the voltage values will no longer match. As another aside the optocouplers will now operate at these new voltage points and not where they where originally matched -not good.
-For the reasons above, the RC option must be ordered with a new unit.
-The planned $700 (65% is motor pot price; 21% circuitry/RC; 14% or $100 for labor/overhead) on top of the unit price might not be appetizing to most.
-I still have to reconnect with the motor pot vendor and convince them to sell in small batches (1-3 units)
So to everyone in anticipation, it is a bit of a damper to all who are expecting it to be quite affordable. Having said this, it'll be great to see a show of hands if I should move forward or are we all happy getting off our butts to caress the knob and control the volume?
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I'm all in, let see how a V4x3 works in my system. Thanks to the Mrs. & Allan & gooberdude for a (hopefully) great Christmas gift. :beer:
I've perused the thread re: batteries, chargers. If anyone has any suggestions that are not already in the thread, please PM. TY. Seems like Amazon may have all I need to get off the grid with Allan's gear:
CTEK battery charger (http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-800-Smart-Battery-Charger/dp/B002X67JU8/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1325803302&sr=1-11); other charger (http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-500ma-sealed-lead-acid-battery-charger-2.html)
battery (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001XV8P0C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318202010&sr=8-2)
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Dave, this should be a fairly painless transaction :wink:
:lol:
My WS preamp is an excellent match with my NS amp(s) and sources.
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Will this battery psu work with the opto?
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=95740.msg1035322;topicseen#new
Its made by Empirical for a Pace Car, 12V. new battery.
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Matt, not sure with these types of battery supplies how the AC/charger circuit is isolated from its DC circuit. I'm comfortable only if the AC charger is unplugged when supplying DC...lots of AC hash gets through even on the Ground lines/plane. That is why I always recommend a simple alkaline or SLA battery supply with a separate charger.
Dave, thanks to your patience and persistence I was able to get work done on the V4x3...it is now officially part of the line-up of options. :thumb:
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I was told by another designer here that not all chargers are the same quality and that Ctek is totally fine to leave attached and that only the battery dc is powering even though it's co nected.
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The charger won't be plugged in except when its charging the batteries, regardless of the system i buy. Just wanted to be sure the dc output was suitable for my preamp.
I've been looking for an all-in-one solution, gonna try the Empirical.
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I just wanted to provide an update to post #197. I received my Warpspeed about 6 weeks ago and was unable to have a lengthy, critical listening session until tonight. Once again, I'm going to be brief and refrain from using the standard buzz words to describe the improvements. Instead, I'll describe my listening experience as being temporarily suspended in a time warp (pun intended). For about thirty minutes, I was so stunned by what I heard that I just sat there frozen in a state of "WTF?". The Warpspeed was so accurate and revealing on some songs that they sounded completely different (i.e., better) from what I was accustomed to hearing. In fact, a studio recording began to sound live -- or maybe like I was actually at the recording studio. Yeah, I realize what I'm saying may sound exaggerated or over the top, but I don't care. I'm simply reporting what I felt and what I heard. I don't know what else to say. The Warpspeed is an incredible product. Now, let's see if we can convince Allan to begin work on producing battery powered mono amps.
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Difference between this and the Lightspeed unit?
http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?aamps&1276356977&openmine&Agear&4&5&st0
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All the research I've done says users who've had both prefer the Warspeed and that this one is pretty much the best of the bunch. Curious to hear why as well, though.
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I could be wrong, but from what i've read it sounds like the Warpspeed LDR is the newest type of LDR to come to market. The Lightspeed is an older design. Doubt anyone can go wrong with either.
Searching the 'net for info on WS will take you to other forums. Look for posts by a fella named Blue (diyaudio maybe?)
What I am interested to know is if there's any difference in sound quality between the difft LDR's.
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Warpspeed CE, do you know that your PM box is full? Just tried to PM you, but no go.
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Thanks Brad...knowing owners are happy never gets old. I'd rather read great reviews from owners than me singing praises about it.
Roy, I guess I get limited pm being a jr. member. Anyway I prefer you and others email as it is more convenient to see and reply.
I'm Blues over at diyAudio...
Quantum wire coming soon to your high-end stores... http://futureoftech.msnbc.msn.com/_news/2012/01/10/10096888-four-atom-wide-wire-may-herald-tiny-computers
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Any thoughts on when the demo unit will be back up and running?
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I have always been curious about these. How does one know if it works for their system? I assume I'd need a preamp bypass installed on my integrated amp. How does it switch between components?
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I have always been curious about these. How does one know if it works for their system? I assume I'd need a preamp bypass installed on my integrated amp. How does it switch between components?
if your integrated amp has main outs/preamp ins, you could insert it there, and simply max out the wolume pots on the integrated.
personally, while the warpspeed seems a great product, it's not for me. my rig is on 24/7 most of the time, so i cannot do battery power. and i need remote. $700 add for remote is ridiculous, especially when there's ldr preamps out there, complete w/remote that does not impede on the sonics, for half the price of the warpspeed remote add cost. surely, there's a less complicated/expensive way to implement remote control? :scratch: a remote control warpspeed is beyond cheap-n-cheerful, me-thinks...
ymmv,
doug s.
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Ted, it's way in the backburner...not in the near future plans. Sorry, the tour is suspended indefinitely.
Netdewt, I'll send you an email with some reading material. All other info are in forums like AC and diyAudio. To answer your questions briefly -mainly it controls volume levels using optocouplers, matches most systems -both tubed and ss, options to switch sources are available, kits to install internally in integrated amps are not available at this time. Maxing out the existing volume pots should be a temporary solution, as signal still goes thru it thru the wipers. Better to solder a bypass wire.
Doug, it is a ridiculously steep price that's why I laid out the facts firsthand. It's an option available to everyone though, for those who have tried and don't care about the other designs, but dearly want a W'speed with a remote. It's actually the simplest of implementations but unfortunately pricey.
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While they're still endlessly debating and wondering why their LDR designs' lowest possible volume level is still loud on high gain or high efficiency systems; and can't be quiet like a good puppy when you want it to -here is what I've been working on... (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=56322)
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It's such a simple solution of just wiring the WS to be close to where you will use it.... Remotes are easy to lose too, not ALWAYs so convenient. You can spend more time hunting it down than you would just turning the dial and leaving it... sometimes we get addicted to things we didn't know we didn't even need.
That said, I'm glad to have the BEST SOUNDING ldr :thumb: :thumb:
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Can anyone tell me what the average input impedance on this unit is? What sort of load the upstream component has to drive? I'm into tube tuners and wonder if they can drive it. It appears to be around 1K ohm, but not sure if that is correct.
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Not to hijack your question...:) but also what is the maximum output impedance allowed for the source going into to it. The other popular LDR seems to have a pretty low limit of 100 ohms, unless I'm mistaken. The DAC I want to use as a source is a Channel Island VDA-2, with a rating of 825 ohms.
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Thanks Rclark.
BFitz, without getting into the details...the W'speed's input Z starts at infinity and logarithmically decreases to that amount or just above that value before increasing again. You'll be rocking hard even before that...
jk, I have a couple of sources that I use often, a Sony SACD with a measured 624-ohm output impedance and a Bluray with 932 ohms. Both sources work the W'speed knob from 6:00 thru 3:00 on the 2nd turn of the 3-turn control. Very smooth and continuous sound level response throughout.
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OK Thanks
I just wanted to make sure I was interpreting the data from your spreadsheet R1.4 here correctly
where you give values at 9o'clock through 1 o'clock and near max CW. I would have thought that input Z would be the sum of series and shunt values in column D for each setting, and was puzzled by your listed "input Z" values, as low as 85 ohms at near max CW. Did you have a typo and mean output Z?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/176847-warpspeed-optocoupler-volume-control-10.html#post2555876
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You are correct it is the sum -without the effect of the load...in this case headphones with a 55-ohm impedance. Btw, you are looking at the "Headphones" tab of the spreadsheet...see lower left corner for tab to "Loudspeakers".
Where loading will be an issue, as with low impedance headphones, a buffer is recommended. Although in cases where the source can supply enough current a buffer might not be needed.
I have a v1.5 and cannot remember if I have posted it already...
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Thanks Warp. I'm thinking about incorporating one of these with a Dodds basic buffer (on the output side of the LDR) running a 6H30P-DR tube. The tube will put out a lot of heat, so my initial idea is to join two rectangular chassis together with a non-conductive material, and have a small air break in between the two boxes. Have the tube exposed on the outside top panel of one, the Warpspeed in the other chassis. What's the max temp these things can tolerate?
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Hey guys don't mean to hijack but Warpspeed told me to pose this question to everyone here directly.
I just ordered a V4 warpspeed and wanted everyones opinion on what DAC would pair well with SB touch, the Warpspeed and Quad 12L Active speakers. Just want to be careful because I heard some people had some issues. Forgot to mention, $1000 limit (give or take).
Thanks
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Ordered a V4x3 on 1/4/2012; shipped on 1/24/2012! Outstanding communication, input, turnaround time, and professionalism on every level from Allan - couldn't ask for more. [Also, a number of ACers provided thoughtful input along the way - thanks so much to each of you.] I'm looking forward to hearing what the Optocoupler will do in my system; if what I've experienced in working with Allan is a harbinger of things to come, my ears should be in for a treat. :thumb:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=56950)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=56951)
FYI - high WAF!!! :beer:
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=56953)
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Optocoupler 4X3 unit arrived today, a day ahead of schedule. Insured with tracking number. Excellent packaging - double boxed and wrapped, fragile stamped numerous times on package. No worries.
Workmanship appeared 1st rate: wood finished nicely and smoothly, clean case lines, non-bright "on" led, good feel when turning volume knob, etc. Although there is no lettering for on/off switch, inputs, outputs, Allan's included schematic clearly indicates what is what.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=56322)
The battery I ordered is not due until this coming Monday; however, I had one in a disconnected / unused UPS that sufficed. Hook up into my system (Zu Omen Def speakers, Niteshade NS-40 tubed amp, Jolida JD-100 cdp, older Sony cdp, etc.) was easy. Gave a bit of time for easy listening, as the JD-100 and NS-40 tubes warmed up, that pointed to better things ahead. The JD-100's output with the Optocoupler / NS-40 easily drove the Zu Omen Defs to louder than necessary levels. Although an active preamp would probably provide even higher sound pressure levels, my cochlea and auditory nerve would not tolerate those levels without sustaining damage. I note my dedicated listening room is approximately 22'X14', speakers on the long wall.
Early notes re: critical listening after 25 minutes of system warm up. The Optocoupler presented to me and the Mrs. organically. Lots of space around instruments and voices, very good placement and soundstaging (front/rear; side-to-side). No noise/hum at all. Great strike and decay. Realistic came to mind. My JD-100 is not the last word in detail; however, intermittent sibilance my system once had was no longer present, and the amount of detail seemed increased. (The older Sony cd changer presented better, too.) Head nodding / toe tapping involvement related to assorted music: Chemical Brothers, Beethoven's Pastoral, Alison Krauss, Kenny Chesney, Billy Idol, Hall and Oates, Billy Joel, Mary Chapin Carpenter, Sting, Talking Heads, Paul Simon, and more.
We're looking forward to enjoying this unit. Great job Allan, thank you. :thumb:
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:thumb:
If you get the right mix of tubes & cables, your WS + NS 40 should be, literally, dead silent & forceful. NS amps are known for not having tube noise (hushhhhh), mine have none.
Dont recall my WS having bad sound while breaking in. It was lush & kaboom-ey from the start.
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:thumb:
If you get the right mix of tubes & cables, your WS + NS 40 should be, literally, dead silent & forceful. NS amps are known for not having tube noise (hushhhhh), mine have none.
Dont recall my WS having bad sound while breaking in. It was lush & kaboom-ey from the start.
The tubes on my cdp usually take about 25 minutes or less to get right. Been having fun listening to my system already tonight! The Optocoupler is a keeper.
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I'll never forget when I first got the demo unit up and running, definitely a jaw dropper :thumb:
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Thank you Dave, for your kind words and compliments! I'm glad that you and especially the Boss like it...guys like you who take the leap help me in developing new models in the lineup otherwise they remain TBD:) I hope you will have late nights enjoying it for a long time.
jk@home, the way you planned your layout I don't see any issues with heat...
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FYI - today I used an old cigar box as a case for the Optocoupler's 12V battery, works quite nicely. (Safety first - will remember to open the box lid when I charge the battery.) Just need to get a second box for the second battery, plenty of time for that.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=57113)
My daughter came in for the weekend and started tapping her toes as soon as I started spinning some tunes; she's enjoying the most recent system upgrade, too. :green:
edit: added photo
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Home sweet home for that V4x3...
On the design front:
A lot of queries have been made about Left-Right channel balance control for the Warpspeed –from potential buyers, I might add, but so far none yet from current owners. Due to the virtually infinite number of steps in the log-antilog response curves of the LDRs, a balance control might come in handy especially on higher/lower-gain/efficiency systems. Here the LDRs will be at work at the extremes of their response curves where they are not as well matched.
After some brain cells wrangling and wringing I came up with a +/-4dB L-R balance control which I’ll name the transWarp or xW for short. There are 2 versions -a standard one-knob control (xW1) which features a 10-turn precision potentiometer that will simultaneously increase (-) and decrease(+) attenuation up to a maximum of 4dB on both L/R channels. This is a min-max difference of 8dB. For the pro-spirited, the control freaks, or both –a two-knob control (xW 2) features dual 10-turn precision pots to independently control Left or Right channel. It is still a +/- 4dB of play for each channel with the choice on which to either increase or decrease in attenuation. Each channel also gets a min-max difference of 8dB. On a xW 2 I usually go for the weaker channel and decrease the attenuation. For the xW 1 it will have an overall quicker knob response due to its channel-to-channel simultaneous adjustment. Both designs’ icing on the cake is their guaranteed tiny, continuous incremental level increase/decrease –for a half-scale turn, how about <0.02dB?! Now if imbalance is more than what the xW can compensate for, then either I did a really lousy LDR matching job or something is faulty. The balance control circuitry is very quiet, being in the LED domain and is autonomous of the signal circuitry.
The balance knobs are anodized machined aluminum, precision scale dials that are calibrated 1/100 of a full turn and for each of the 10 full turns. These controls are independent of the main volume control. Adjustment was easy enough that I was able to balance by ear to <1dB. I deliberately built a V4x2 with LDRs that are fairly matched to present some imbalance. You can hear it snap into place between the speakers especially lead vocal driven music…Eva Cassidy and John Hammond have been spinning heavily.
The xW options are now available on all new units or as an upgrade to existing ones.
xW2
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=57504)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=57505)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=57506)
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Home sweet home for that V4x3...
Yes it is. Happy wife, happy life.
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Any chance there is a remote option coming out anytime soon?
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Any chance there is a remote option coming out anytime soon?
Read post #269.
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Ouch.....$700 for remote :scratch:
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Ouch.....$700 for remote :scratch:
for those wanting a remote ldr passive preamp, but still want to to keep it cheep and cheerful, (this is the cheap & cheerful circle, after all), i recommend considering the diyparadise eva-2, which can be had for ~$400 shipped - remote included. it does not have the small steps in wolume control that the warpspeed has, and is is not battery operated. and while i have never heard a warpspeed, so cannot compare the two, i can unequivocally state that the eva-2 is an incredibly transparent piece - i do heartily recommend ldr attenuators...
http://diyparadise.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=113
ymmv,
doug s.
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Good for you, Dave...and Go Pats! Btw although you didn't ask, I just realized the V4x3 cannot be a candidate for the xW option due to switching limitations :duh:.
Morganc, it is the sad reality for the RC option at this time. Unless somebody takes the leap it might not see the light of day. Although I have all the electronics and the all-aluminum RC handset ready, I myself have not plunked the $450 for the motorized pot (P3 America)...my CFO is a very tough customer indeed!
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I sent an email and havent heard back yet, but i am thinking this will be my "dream Cheerful system" below once I hear the price. I want a system that sounds amazing at low to moderate volume levels on a serious budget.
* means I own these.
Warpseed Optocoupler V4 (3 inputs?)
Grant Tube Buffer * (coming end of the week)
Sony N220 amplifier * (to be replaced by a Digital type amp)
Cambridge DacMagic *
Boston Acoustic A70 speakers * (to be replaced by Tekton M-Lore speakers)
Sony DVD player* or PS3 for SACD *
Denon DP62L TT *
Ortofon OM2 Red Cart. *
Phono pre tbd-any $100 giant killers?
I am currently using my trusty old Proton D540 integrated amp as a pre.
I also have a huge iTunes collection and Spotify playlists I'd like to play through the Warpspeed system.
Dreaming, dreaming!!
Ray
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I pm'd ya back Ray, I know you're gonna be thrilled because that has been the only response to ownership. No dislike, and nothing in between, everyone just loves theirs.
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... I know you're gonna be thrilled because that has been the only response to ownership. No dislike, and nothing in between, everyone just loves theirs.
Has anybody replaced their Mark Levinson Preamp with a Warpspeed Volume Control? I have a Mark Levinson #380S and would to know if I should expect an improvement in my system by replacing it with a WPVC.
I have a Mark Levinson #390S CDP, Wyred 4 Sound DAC-2 and a Well Tempered Reference Turn Table going into actively horizontally biamped Mangepan 20.1 system (no tubes in the system).
Thanks for your help.
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Ouch.....$700 for remote :scratch:
Warpspeed CE: I created this as a PM but your inbox is full...
I am very interested in building a remote controlled, balanced Warpspeed Optocoupler but cannot justify $700 for a DIY project. I see you state that of the $700 figure "65% is motor pot price" & "21% circuitry/RC" for a total of $602.
Would one of these work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350267364986
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250467804650
This same seller also has the remote control circuitry:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260949343657
We're talking <$150 which is more in my "Cheap & Cheerful" ballpark.
I've been toying with the idea of building a passive simply using one of the above but thought these combined with the WarpSpeed Optocoupler may be a better option. Let me know...
Martin
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I'm curios to see if the Warpspeed bests the mighty Pioneer VSX D-912 as a pre, although mine isn't as tricked out as some others with a detachable power cord, shorted inputs etc...
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Martin,
Thanks for taking the time to research. I have also...and I have looked at Alps, TKD, Bourns, and the other usual suspects. None have the value, precision, and specs that I require to replace the Vishay/Spectrol manual pot that I currently use. I do not want to change the design to adjust the value and compromise on the electrical performance. I'm sorry I do not want to go into the details.
These 2 are what I narrowed down to with P3 lower in price... http://www.p3america.com/ and http://www.onlinecontrols.com/mpots.htm . So if anyone reading this have an insider please let me know and hopefully we can get a better deal.
edited link error: djbnh, thanks for pointing that out.
ken, an A/V receiver?
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I should have one (DIY Version) in about two weeks. I have bags and bags of cheap cables. Keeping everything cheap and cheerful, what are the basic level of cables and lengths I should use to insure I am not throwing away large chunks of what the Warpspeed (WS) offers?
I wonder as my turntable has a really long stock cords on it if i should start there and cut them to just long enough to reach a phono pre? Easily 2' I could lop off (Denon DP-62L with MM, but could be a MC someday). Next cable is from pre to WS then WS to Grant tube buffer then to amp. I am hoping the right answer is cords dont matter (except maybe the one from the TT to the pre.)
Thanks,
Ray
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Hi Warpspeed:
I tried to PM you but your box is full.
I am very interested in trying your product. Could you PM me the price of the model that you made for djbnh and what would the "kit" form of this model cost?
Thanks,
Randy
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I can wrap my head around the pros of having multiple inputs for multiple sources...what are people using multiple outputs and bypasses for? Also, what does "paralleled" output mean?
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These 2 are what I narrowed down to with P3 lower in price... http://www.p3america.com/ and http://www.onlinecontrols.com/mpots.htm . So if anyone reading this have an insider please let me know and hopefully we can get a better deal.
No contacts here...
So what is the total cost of a DIY kit, both with and without remote control, i.e. one price with the standard Vishay/Spectrol pot and one with the P3 America pot and RC circuitry. A PM response is fine...
Thanks,
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Allan, Mr. Warpspeed, emailed me several weeks back that he's not selling the DIY kit any longer. I was going to try one myself. :(
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max, "paralleled" is split OUT internally for bi-amping/sub line out L/R channels.
mhconley, I'll pm in a bit...
Sorry kit availability is suspended indefinitely...concentrating on fully-built ones.
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Allan, Mr. Warpspeed, emailed me several weeks back that he's not selling the DIY kit any longer. I was going to try one myself. :(
Appears this fellow is still selling kits:
http://www.buildanamp.com/ (http://www.buildanamp.com/)
Here's the PDF build manual:
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B0N-dmOQiKmAYTZmMDdjNDUtZTkyOS00YjU2LTk1ZDEtZjZiYjg1OTNjMzdm&hl=en
Or you could read the monster thread on diyaudio, and build one from scratch:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/80194-lightspeed-attenuator-new-passive-preamp.html (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/80194-lightspeed-attenuator-new-passive-preamp.html)
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...and bypasses for?
A member asked me if it can be done and this option came about. Bypass mode is for owners who have common power amps for both music and movies. They can use their Receiver's processor for control instead of the W'speed...without having to disconnect and reconnect cables specifically to the front L/R power amps.
rklein, I PM'd you too.
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Appears this fellow is still selling kits:
http://www.buildanamp.com/ (http://www.buildanamp.com/)
Here's the PDF build manual:
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B0N-dmOQiKmAYTZmMDdjNDUtZTkyOS00YjU2LTk1ZDEtZjZiYjg1OTNjMzdm&hl=en
Or you could read the monster thread on diyaudio, and build one from scratch:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/80194-lightspeed-attenuator-new-passive-preamp.html (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/80194-lightspeed-attenuator-new-passive-preamp.html)
Yes, a good plan for those wanting to DIY. I wouldn't get too carried away by the "marketing stuff".
I bought a set of matched LDRs for $35., which is the guts of this passive attenuator design, and the same manufacturer and part is used by all designs.
The LDRs are the guts of it, the difference between all the designs is in how they are controlled. And the audio signal is totally independent of the control side of things.
I developed my own voltage/current control technique. It's pretty simple, and uses common principles seen everywhere in audio today. Anyone who is technical could probably also do it. And it will work well with cheap remote controls like the Alps. Heck, if you were really cheap, you could use a wired remote box with 2 buttons to control the motorized pot.
Or just build the original Lightspeed design.
George, the guy who *originally* developed this thing, was bragging that HIS version (design is public) just made the Stereophile recommended list, again, for the 5th time.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/80194-lightspeed-attenuator-new-passive-preamp-440.html#post2890637
This is cheap and cheerful, right? It started out DIY and cheap, but is starting to look like a site sponsor forum.
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Thank you Dave, for your kind words and compliments! I'm glad that you and especially the Boss like it...guys like you who take the leap help me in developing new models in the lineup otherwise they remain TBD:) I hope you will have late nights enjoying it for a long time.
jk@home, the way you planned your layout I don't see any issues with heat...
Hi Allan,
I was just wondering if I could use a wallwart with the coupler. I was thinking about the idea of throwing a couple of caps in series? with the power input to further quiet down and further smooth out any pulses. What or how much current is required? Also, you said it would take somewheres from 9 to 24VDC so has anyone actually tried this with a veriack, to see what the optimum voltage versus current ratio this would work at? I do have some adapters that are 12V 600MA 300Ma and 1 amp. I even have an 18VDC at 1 amp. So what do you think?
Ray Bronk
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Yes, a good plan for those wanting to DIY. I wouldn't get too carried away by the "marketing stuff"..................
This is cheap and cheerful, right? It started out DIY and cheap, but is starting to look like a site sponsor forum.
As the facilitator around these parts I've had the same concern and have been watching closely. Warpspeed CE has been pretty good about not doing any direct sales or promotion, for the most part just answering questions, which is what he is allowed to do. There have been a couple of instances where the envelop was pushed a bit, but he stays just this side of the line.
Additionally, no one with any competing ideas or plans are shouted down, in fact Warpspeed CE generally tried to help them out with their project. There are no potted parts and the plans are linked to on the diy forum, so anyone can get full access to build anything they want to. Your concerns are valid, and I'll keep monitoring, but so far I think we're still within rules and guidelines.
P.S. Welcome aboard and you're invited to display your build and share whatever parts of the design you feel comfortable with, love to see it.
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letitroll (and everyone else) - i can tell you from experience that, if "bfitz" shares his handiwork here, take notice! it will be as good as anything out there. i speak from experience. 8) he is a fine engineer; i have experienced it first hand in the fm tuna world, which, as i understand it, makes things like amps, preamps, ldr's, etc., look like child's play. :wink:
bob - glad to see you here. :thumb: i especially like and appreciate the comment you made:
The LDRs are the guts of it, the difference between all the designs is in how they are controlled. And the audio signal is totally independent of the control side of things.
which is why it makes no sense to me why one would need to spend $700 yust to add a remote, as any ol' remote would do, since it's completely out of the audio signal path... the remote in my eva-2 is digitally controlled, and only offers 23 steps, but it is more than sufficient. (and, it also offers switching of 3 inputs.) however, if more steps are wanted regarding wolume control, there's other options, while still keeping it cheap-n-cheerful...
doug s.
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bob - glad to see you here. :thumb: i especially like and appreciate the comment you made:
The LDRs are the guts of it, the difference between all the designs is in how they are controlled. And the audio signal is totally independent of the control side of things.
which is why it makes no sense to me why one would need to spend $700 yust to add a remote, as any ol' remote would do, since it's completely out of the audio signal path... the remote in my eva-2 is digitally controlled, and only offers 23 steps, but it is more than sufficient. (and, it also offers switching of 3 inputs.) however, if more steps are wanted regarding wolume control, there's other options, while still keeping it cheap-n-cheerful...
Not sure if this has been done already, but it would be interesting for a few people to compare the sound quality of the Warpspeed with the digitally remote controlled eva-2. My guess is that even in the land of "cheap & cheerful," you get what you pay for.
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If anyone is in the Seattle area with a different type of ldr, I'd be willing to bring mine for a "shootout". However, if you do some searches, I know over on DIYaudio the Warpspeed compares favorably against other ldr's.
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Not sure if this has been done already, but it would be interesting for a few people to compare the sound quality of the Warpspeed with the digitally remote controlled eva-2. My guess is that even in the land of "cheap & cheerful," you get what you pay for.
my guess is there would be no difference in sonics whatsoever. as bfitz said, the ldr's are the guts of it; design differences are how they are controlled, which are outside the audio signal path. i was gonna get on the audition list for a warpspeed, but battery power and no remote are non-starters for me...
doug s.
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Whoa, gentlemen! I'm not forcing any of these on anyone...last time I looked everyone has still the freedom to choose. If you're going to be happy with another design, it's fine by me.
I have from the start been forthcoming with the RC option, with pricing, with design choices, etc. It's an option you can either choose or NOT...you don't have to be sore about it. Please don't forget to be "Cheerful" now. Maybe a Thread on BFitz's design will give it a voice and audience...and maybe he'll let us examine it?
Thank you to the admin and all who've been very supportive...
RayB, you can get away with 150mA and 300mA is more than enough. Just remember a clean, pure DC source, like the battery, will always have an advantage -with current demand, and voltage variations being minimal.
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there is one possible area that could result in sonic differences w/these ldr attenuators, (so i was told/read); i queried the designer of the eva-2 about this, before i took the plunge:
q:
does eva have have fixed series resistors and variable shunt LDR’s for each channel; or variable series LDR’s for each channel and the variable shunt LDR’s for each channel?
a:
Eva2 is design with 2 LDRs per channel; configured in variable series and shunt. This yield the best sonic result compared to fixed series resistor and variable shunt design.
that's all i know...
doug s.
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hey warpspeed, don't misunderstand me, please! i have no qualms about your posts, your products, or your input in this thread. you are correct; everyone has their choices, as do you, regarding the product you feel comfortable with offering. i was only expressing my opinion, which is that i am completely uninterested in spending $700 for a remote that may be operationally a bit better, but doesn't make anything sound better, as it is completely outside the audio signal path. (and, of course, that it is no longer anything resembling cheap-n-cheerful.) you, and others may feel different; i have no issue w/that!
carry on! :thumb:
doug s.
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Not that anyone cares, but I'm so very happy with my Warpspeed...I don't mind getting off my ass every once in a while and adjusting the volume. My gosh, it's only 12 feet away. The Warpspeed really set me off on a new direction of clean power and signal path with my entire system. For that alone it was worth it...but the unit sounds great, looks great, and is rock solid. It has really kept pace with my recent upgrades...in fact it demanded them!
Cheers,
John
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Or just build the original Lightspeed design.
George, the guy who *originally* developed this thing, was bragging that HIS version (design is public) just made the Stereophile recommended list, again, for the 5th time.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/80194-lightspeed-attenuator-new-passive-preamp-440.html#post2890637
That was my original plan until I contacted George about building a balanced version and received this reponse, "balanced (XLR) is impossible to make to be reliable". My sources all have balanced out and my DIY amps have only balanced input. I'll keep kludging along with what I have cobbled together and keep looking.
The main stumbling block I've run into is too many wants:
- Passive (LDR or TVC)
- Balanced
- Remote control
- Multiple input
- Cheap & cheerful or DIY
Sowter attentuator transformers look interesting, finding a motorized multi-position switch is the trick.
Martin
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Something like this?:
http://www.bentaudio.com/DLFILES/STEP-REM-R1.pdf (http://www.bentaudio.com/DLFILES/STEP-REM-R1.pdf)
But using a 4 channel pot?
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Something like this?:
http://www.bentaudio.com/DLFILES/STEP-REM-R1.pdf (http://www.bentaudio.com/DLFILES/STEP-REM-R1.pdf)
But using a 4 channel pot?
Yes!
This document describes the options and wiring of the Bent Audio Stepped Attenuator kit. This kit can be used to
add remote control function to a variety of different switches and attenuators. We can adapt the kit to many OEM switches
for production orders but most commonly the kit is used with:
1- Goldpoint Mini-V Attenuators
2- Dact CT2 Attenuators.
3- Shallco C series 2 deck 23 position switches (Bent Audio Version with shaft extension and custom springs).
Very interesting - thanks!
Martin
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As the facilitator around these parts I've had the same concern and have been watching closely.
Additionally, no one with any competing ideas or plans are shouted down, in fact Warpspeed CE generally tried to help them out with their project. There are no potted parts and the plans are linked to on the diy forum, so anyone can get full access to build anything they want to. Your concerns are valid, and I'll keep monitoring, but so far I think we're still within rules and guidelines.
P.S. Welcome aboard and you're invited to display your build and share whatever parts of the design you feel comfortable with, love to see it.
Thanks for the welcome. In general, I'm a DIY guy at heart, and like to help other DIY people build and learn.
In response to comments above, there is one thing I think you have mistaken - my experience is the parts in the Warpspeed control ARE potted, and the design is proprietary. There are no public domain schematics published. The kit manual tells you how to wire in the potted module. So the only way to get one is to buy a finished unit. The DIY option, which was a kit with potted module, is no longer offered.
I have no problem with protection of IP. In this day and age, it makes sense, if you are a "business". I guess cheap is all relative. Not knowing the finished unit price, I can't really call that one.
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bob - glad to see you here.
Doug thanks for the nice words. So everyone puts this in context, Doug has been a contributor to the Yahoo FM Tuners group for a long time, over 10 years now. He often contributes to discussions on inexpensive but good sounding FM tuners, which we call "sparrow feed" class, typically costing less than $50.
He also was a contributor to the Yahoo Art D/IO DAC group, again going back 10 years. I founded / help moderate those groups, so we have a common interest in cheap good sounding audio stuff that goes back a while.
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hey bob, don't sell me short - i also am fond of tuna that ain't sparrow feed! :lol:
like the rotel rht-10 i am presently enjoying. while not as spendy as some, it is far from cheap. (it retailed for $1500 in '93 and only 500 were made; i have seen them sell for anywhere between $400-$1200.) and it sounds superb.
the rotel rht-10, in fact, is one of the better sounding tunas around. let bob have his way with one, tho, and i dare say it doesn't get any better. 8) :green:
doug s.
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Most warpspeed options have 1 input. How are 1-input owners switching sources? Swapping cables each time, or some other method? Forgive me if I'm just missing something..
added: my impression is that most people are running a warpspeed directly into a power amp
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hey bob, don't sell me short - i also am fond of tuna that ain't sparrow feed! :lol:
like the rotel rht-10 i am presently enjoying. the rotel rht-10, in fact, is one of the better sounding tunas around. let bob have his way with one, tho, and i dare say it doesn't get any better. 8) :green:
Doug, yes, tried to keep my comments in context of *this* forum. :duh:
Guess I forgot to mention Doug has also owned, and contributed reviews for, almost every high end FM tuner ever made. As he mentions, I've done complete RF alignment, IF filter mods, and modded the audio stages on a few high end tuners for him over the years.
I have an RF/Acoustics/Vibration/Audio lab with lots of $ investment in instrumentation that is part of my eclectic interest in audio and other stuff. It helps in developing boards and circuits, all for my own consumption, as a hobby. My career, and present job, is selling test and measurement instruments, with over 25 years doing that at B&K, HP,Agilent, and other companies. I don't have time to think about selling my audio hobby investigations, it doesn't pay for me.
Back to LDR optocouplers. All of them use the Silonex NSL-32SR2 parts, google it for the data sheet. You can buy 50 of them for $100. USD from Allied Electronics. They need to be matched, but this gives you an idea of the actual costs. You can build control electronics for as little as $10.- 20., depending on the design you use.
I looked at the guts of the NSL-32SR2, each of which has a light source (LED), and a light sensitive resistor. The light sensitive resistor is used in the volume control. The LED is connected through various means, eventually, to a volume control.
The important thing to understand, is these two elements face each other in a light sealed tube, and there is no electrical interaction between them.
As the voltage/current applied to the LED increases, the LED gets brighter, and the resistance of the light sensitive resistor decreases. When the LED is fully off, the resistance is really high, say 1 Mohm. When current to the LED is at max. for the part, say 20ma, the resistance is very low, say 50 ohms.
In almost every implementation, you arrange 2 of the device's variable resistor side in series, and take the audio output from the middle of the 2 variable resistors. The audio signal comes in the at the top of the upper variable resistor, and goes out at the bottom of it. Below this, the bottom of the 2nd lower variable resistor is connected to ground.
At min./ zero volume, the top resistor = 1 Mohm, bottom = 50 ohm. At full max volume, the top resistor = 50 ohm, bottom = 1 Mohm.
This is how the whole shebang works.
So the control system needs to control the LEDs, 2 each for L, 2 for R, to create the volume control.
How you do it is where the creativity comes into play. It can be as simple as driving the LED from a dual gang volume pot fed by +5V, to implementing a voltage controlled current source.
But hopefully this explains, to some extent, previous statements to the effect that the actual parts the audio signal sees, the light sensitive resistors, are common to all designs, and likely responsible for positive listening impressions across different control implementations of designs, all using the same common passive attenuator parts.
Geez, sorry, this was a longish post.
Bob
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hi bob,
i, for one, appreciate your "longish post", and the time you took to explain in detail how these things work. the transparency they offer is truly fantastic, imo.
i use my eva-2 between my tube preamp, and active x-over, which feeds my bi-amped or tri-amped system, depending on which speakers i am using. my preamp's gain controls are max'd out, and the eva-2 does the wolume controls... even tho my preamp - a melos ma333r - uses a form of "photentiometer" wolume control, it is not as transparent as it is now, w/the eva-2 in the chain...
doug s.
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Warpspeed CE,
I tried sending you a PM but your mailbox is full.
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maxwalrath, 1-, 2- and 3-IN options are available. 1-IN (V4) owners will just have to unplug at the Source end of their interconnects and plug-in to their other Source -components should be powered down first.
corndog71, just PM'd you...
InfernoSTi, thanks once again!
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It's a real shame the Warpspeed DIY version went away. For a low on skills DIYer like myself it was a simple solution that even I could have handled.
The touring version was here for a week and I still miss it.
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I remember NOT wanting to put it back in the box... and being quite dissatisfied with system until I got one in there.
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I remember NOT wanting to put it back in the box... and being quite dissatisfied with system until I got one in there.
What did you compare it to? Was this your first passive volume control? Did you compare it to another LDR based volume control? Since *you* started the thread, I'm curious if you ever listened to another design based on the same parts, say a Lightspeed design for instance?
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My first ldr for sure. It was compared to the digital volume control from my then xda-1 dac, and indeed blew it the hell away, no comparison. The cleanest sound, like mountain spring water, and due to the pure nature of the device I have absolutely no interest in trying other pre's at this time. I consider it that I am now building my system around the Warpspeed. Surely the dozens of posts here must be reassurance to you.
Once you hit on something that is just so good, you know. It's obvious.
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...Surely the dozens of posts here must be reassurance to you...
RC you killin me :lol: I know you have great taste, cause of the speakers your using now, but lets not get too carried away here. Of coarse nobody is going to buy every LDR out there to compare, that's the job of StereoMojo or some outfit like that. And systems, rooms and listeners are so different anyway, one has to take all opinions with a grain of salt.
But since this is C&C, and Allan doesn't offer a kit anymore, I plan on looking at the Lighternote kit. It's not potted, (meaning it's serviceable) it has setup adjustments for different power amp impedance, and the kit is very well documented.
I'd love to see a shoot out with a bunch of the prebuilt units, and imagine if these things get popular enough, we will someday.
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I compared the Warpspeed to a Slagle based TVC, a B1 with shunt power supply and a Grounded Grid tube pre. All are very good to my ears, but the Warpspeed was a step up in my system using my mono F5's and a single ended el84 amplifier. The B1 is a close second.
I'll say it again that it's a shame the kit version went away. I'll have to look and see what else is out there.
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In addition to the Lighternote mentioned above and linked to previously, I did see this one.
http://www.ska-audio.com/diy/optivol.html (http://www.ska-audio.com/diy/optivol.html) Albeit from Australia so it might be harder to source for some members here.
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And two more kits:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/ph_ldr_volume_control_e.html (http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/ph_ldr_volume_control_e.html)
http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/p&s_optopot_e.html (http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/p&s_optopot_e.html)
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Jk, other than the issue with the remote, I really just can't imagine anyone not liking it. Has to be the ultimate, if not as a fully functioning preamp in larger, more sophisticated systems, then at least as the volume control you'd want for that pre. I feel pretty confident in saying that.
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My first ldr for sure. It was compared to the digital volume control from my then xda-1 dac, and indeed blew it the hell away, no comparison. The cleanest sound, like mountain spring water, and due to the pure nature of the device I have absolutely no interest in trying other pre's at this time. I consider it that I am now building my system around the Warpspeed. Surely the dozens of posts here must be reassurance to you.
Once you hit on something that is just so good, you know. It's obvious.
So you compared this thing to the digital volume control of a low-end DAC and have no interest in seeing how it compares to an actual preamp? Don't get me wrong, it's cool that you like it, and the price is right, but do you think this closed minded approach is the best way to put together a great sounding system? :scratch:
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the XDA-1 isn't a low end dac at all, it's just not top shelf. $400 internet direct is a nice dac.
A pre is just going to have a lot of stuff in there that I personally won't need. I like that this is as simple as it gets for the path, and the fact that I've read hundreds of pages on this stuff, and that the total of that says these types of controls are the best, and that credible people who run them have even replaced megabuck pre's with them and are astounded by them, is enough for me, that and my own ears telling me it really can't get any more clear/seperated than that, pre wise.
Far more interested in dacs than pre's now.
Sure, we all make decisions and stick by them, and then someday we might come across a device that is even better, and we revise. My reviews are no different than anyone else's in that regard. Same as yours even.
I feel like all I need is this ldr and some great amplification, a supreme dac, and I'm set. Purity.
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the XDA-1 isn't a low end dac at all, it's just not top shelf. $400 internet direct is a nice dac.
A pre is just going to have a lot of stuff in there that I personally won't need. I like that this is as simple as it gets for the path, and the fact that I've read hundreds of pages on this stuff, and that the total of that says these types of controls are the best, and that credible people who run them have even replaced megabuck pre's with them and are astounded by them, is enough for me, that and my own ears telling me it really can't get any more clear/seperated than that, pre wise.
Far more interested in dacs than pre's now.
Sure, we all make decisions and stick by them, and then someday we might come across a device that is even better, and we revise. My reviews are no different than anyone else's in that regard. Same as yours even.
I feel like all I need is this ldr and some great amplification, a supreme dac, and I'm set. Purity.
I'm not saying this device is not good. It might be great for all I know but comparing it to the volume control of an entry level DAC and concluding it's the best thing ever invented might seem shortsighted. I like to try things and see how they sound before concluding I've heard the best. I've read so many positive reviews of audio gear and speakers from so many enthusiastic owners and reviewers only to be disappointed when I actually hear it. Your reviews ARE slightly different than mine in this area. I have never bought a piece of gear based on solely a review and have tried to evaluate as many new components in my system as possible before shelling out cash.
Would you accept someone's opinion on a car if that person's only point of reference was a Yugo and just upgraded from a horse and wagon? Just saying...
Cheers,
Jack
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That would be true if I hadn't done research too. I was scared to post my review but everyone else's experience matches mine, people with far more experience than me. So there's nothing wrong with my statements and I stand by them. LDR's are simply better than other means of volume control.
I think I understand your rancor, you own one of the pre's that someone dropped for this ldr. Not a cheap device either.
I am as honest as I can be. I could lie and say, OH SURE, I've heard dozens of pieces of gear. I am merely relating my experience. The device isn't good, it's flipping awesome. I have seriously no interest in a pre after this. Give me a good reason I should? If you could hear what I hear, you'd understand.
Far more interested in stepping up my amps, dac, and doing treatments. If I get a chance to try out another conventional pre, sure, I'll give it a go! This is my hobby and I love trying new stuff, but I won't actively search for one anymore.
I have heard other pre's before, obviously, I don't live on an island, but I can only relate what is in my system. Trust me, if I were even slightly dissatisfied, I'd be on the hunt for a pre, you can believe that.
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That would be true if I hadn't done research too. I was scared to post my review but everyone else's experience matches mine, people with far more experience than me. So there's nothing wrong with my statements and I stand by them. LDR's are simply better than other means of volume control.
I think I understand your rancor, you own one of the pre's that someone dropped for this ldr. Not a cheap device either.
I am as honest as I can be. I could lie and say, OH SURE, I've heard dozens of pieces of gear. I am merely relating my experience. The device isn't good, it's flipping awesome. I have seriously no interest in a pre after this. Give me a good reason I should? If you could hear what I hear, you'd understand.
Far more interested in stepping up my amps, dac, and doing treatments. If I get a chance to try out another conventional pre, sure, I'll give it a go! This is my hobby and I love trying new stuff, but I won't actively search for one anymore.
I have heard other pre's before, obviously, I don't live on an island, but I can only relate what is in my system. Trust me, if I were even slightly dissatisfied, I'd be on the hunt for a pre, you can believe that.
I have no rancor. It just makes me laugh when I read a guy say he is done auditioning preamps because he found one that beat out the digital volume control on his $400 DAC. I'm happy with my system but always try to hear new gear and other people's systems to gain exposure to new ideas and possible future acquisitions.
I never said the Opto wasn't a good preamp. I hope to hear one someday in my system and I'll give my honest opinion. If I like it, I'll buy it. Don't know if I'll rant and rave like a little schoolgirl on this thread and mention the Opto in every post, but I'll give an honest and informed opinion as I always do. At least I'll know my decision was an informed one, not one made based solely on the opinions of other people. Then again, who knows, maybe ignorance is bliss...
Cheers,
Jack
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My only mistake was not having something better than the xda vol control, which, again, is a fine dac otherwise. But the cool thing is, you dont have to take my word for it :wink:. Ask anyone else here.
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Only one down side: price. I'm building another Bottlehead Quickie preamp and thought this would be an awesome addition to it. I prefer the use of dual mono controls as it's tough to get matching pairs of the tubes in the Quickie.
It's a shame nobody has made an ldr kit with some sort of balance feature. I would have to spend nearly a grand on these volume controls in order to get the flexibility that I need.
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Tell you what Jackman, I'd be more than willing to trade for a week. Just dont let me battery get low.
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Tell you what Jackman, I'd be more than willing to trade for a week. Just dont let me battery get low.
Are you near Chicago? I am always up for a demo and would be happy to let you try my preamp. If not, I will put the word out to local folks. I'm going to have a get-together when Phil Bamberg finishes his Series 6 speakers. Maybe that would be a good time to test preamps. I enjoy your enthusiasm and I'm sorry for being rude in my message. Your comments did not warrant my response.
Cheers,
J
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That would be true if I hadn't done research too. I was scared to post my review but everyone else's experience matches mine, people with far more experience than me. So there's nothing wrong with my statements and I stand by them. LDR's are simply better than other means of volume control.
I think I understand your rancor, you own one of the pre's that someone dropped for this ldr. Not a cheap device either.
I am as honest as I can be. I could lie and say, OH SURE, I've heard dozens of pieces of gear. I am merely relating my experience. The device isn't good, it's flipping awesome. I have seriously no interest in a pre after this. Give me a good reason I should? If you could hear what I hear, you'd understand.
Far more interested in stepping up my amps, dac, and doing treatments. If I get a chance to try out another conventional pre, sure, I'll give it a go! This is my hobby and I love trying new stuff, but I won't actively search for one anymore.
I have heard other pre's before, obviously, I don't live on an island, but I can only relate what is in my system. Trust me, if I were even slightly dissatisfied, I'd be on the hunt for a pre, you can believe that.
rclark, i highlighted the part of your statement that i agree with. imo, due to the way these ldr's work, any design that gets the calibration right, will sound identical. so, either diy, or buy an off-the-shelf iteration that is cheap and cheerful, and has the features you want. for me, that was remote control.
i would have rather paid less than the $400 for my eva-2, but i doubt my skills at building one, that incorporates remote, would have come out much cheaper. diyparadise used to offer a single-input eva which was ~$300 shipped; i woulda jumped on it, but they say it's no longer being made.
there's no way i am ever gonna give up an active preamp - i love the sound and the features of my melos pre. the dynamics, extension and bloom from a quality active preamp cannot be duplicated by any passive, imo. i need 6 inputs, i need dual mono and separate l/r wolume pots, and i need the two tape loops. having the ldr pots do the wolume control remotely, besides being more user friendly than the melos remote, which controls each channel together, and not accurately, is ergonomic heaven - i simply max out the melos' pots, slightly adjusted for perfect balance, and then use the eva-2 for gain control. the fact that the ldr pots made a wery transparent preamp even more transparent, was icing on the cake.
for anyone wanting ldr wolume control, i recommend it heartily - whether you wanna integrated it w/an active preamp, or go completely passive. nothing will be more transparent. my melos pre used to have one built-in - it was one of the reasons the melos ma333r sha-gold-r pre's sound so good. but, they were wery unreliable in their configuration - shipping would upset the wery finicky calibration necessary for them to track properly. mine was replaced w/a tube potentiometer; according to melos, it was the next best thing, but it obviously was not good enough.
but, unless there's some reason you are enamoured of the look/feel/egonomics of the warpspeed, there is no reason to spend a lot of money on one of these, regardless of whether you want remote, added inputs, balance controls, etc. the extra money spent will not affect the sonics. imo of course.
links to some more info from the diyparadise site:
http://diyparadise.com/web/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=143&Itemid=26
http://diyparadise.com/web/projectsto-keep-you-busy-mainmenu-26/147-beautiful-eva#comments
besides diyparadise, as noted, there are other diy ldr plans & kits out there. mebbe bob (bfitz) will post up some of his ideas for diy'ers...
until mark porzilli re-opens a melos repair center and (re)installs dual-mono remote-control ldr's inside my preamp, my eva-2 ain't going anywhere.
doug s.
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(Jackman) oh no you're fine, and I can see your point as well, I had just hoped that you understand that my desire is to have a supreme system, and I think on the pre side of things I nailed it early on. Looking at Ncore mono's right now as my second real amp, and I will be in a similar situation there too, in ownership of something gobsmackingly good, but without much reference to compare.
I live in the Seattle area. I thought we might ship to each other, if you want. I'm game.
Reading Doug's now.
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Tell you what Jackman, I'd be more than willing to trade for a week. Just dont let me battery get low.
oh ya - another requirement for me - no battery. my system is pretty-much on 24/7. and, as the power supply circuitry will be isolated from the ldr side, it is not necessary...
doug a.
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Only one down side: price. I'm building another Bottlehead Quickie preamp and thought this would be an awesome addition to it. I prefer the use of dual mono controls as it's tough to get matching pairs of the tubes in the Quickie.
It's a shame nobody has made an ldr kit with some sort of balance feature. I would have to spend nearly a grand on these volume controls in order to get the flexibility that I need.
build dual pots into your bottlehead, max them out, w/fine tuning for gain, and then use an ldr preamp between it and your amps. or, if you don't want/care about remote control, simply build two separate l/r channel ldr wolume pots into your bottlehead...
doug s.
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I hear ya Doug :) that's why I also said earlier that for those with more sophisticated. Needs, they could have a pre like yours but still have the ldr doing the volume.
I leave mine permanently attached to the charger. I know Allan said no but Danny Richie says the Ctek's smart chargers are perfectly fine to leave attached and won't cause any damage. I haven't had any problems.
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(Jackman) oh no you're fine, and I can see your point as well, I had just hoped that you understand that my desire is to have a supreme system, and I think on the pre side of things I nailed it early on. Looking at Ncore mono's right now as my second real amp, and I will be in a similar situation there too, in ownership of something gobsmackingly good, but without much reference to compare.
I live in the Seattle area. I thought we might ship to each other, if you want. I'm game.
Reading Doug's now.
Thank but Seattle is too far to ship. I'll try to find someone local or call for a demo unit. It would be fun to do it as part of a get-together with a few beers and some AC people. Will set it up in a month or so. Thanks
J
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I hear ya Doug :) that's why I also said earlier that for those with more sophisticated. Needs, they could have a pre like yours but still have the ldr doing the volume.
I leave mine permanently attached to the charger. I know Allan said no but Danny Richie says the Ctek's smart chargers are perfectly fine to leave attached and won't cause any damage. I haven't had any problems.
"more sophisticated needs"? like better sound? :lol: forget about a new dac - it will give marginal improvements at best, even if you spend $10k. get your ldr passive between a nice tube preamp and your amps, however, and that will give you a big sonic gain, imo... 8)
doug s.
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Sorry, duplicate post. How do you delete this stuff? :scratch:
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yeah but the dac is where the magic happens, besides I need one for the inevitable jump to computer audio.
I get to try the Neko sometime soon, so that's pretty cool.
And by sophisticated I meant, need for inputs or processing, etc. But i have to take your word for it since you do have both. However I figured a nice dac/ldr combo would be my pre system.
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mebbe bob (bfitz) will post up some of his ideas for diy'ers...
doug s.
Like Doug, I need more inputs, at least 3 or 4, and really don't like the idea of reaching in back to select them. In some cases may need a balance control. Remote is nice.
I thought about all this stuff, and then thought about how to do it. DIY is the only option, either buy raw LDR's, or someone's kit. I had a few ideas, and starting playing, then ended up with a flexible circuit that met all these requirements. It's in rough form now, but if I get time, I'll do some boards and see where it goes from there. As mentioned before, I like to help other DIY people.
The circuit uses current control to change the volume, which allows for using normal volume controls (no special 3 turn pots required) so Alps motorized pots work fine. They do need to be dual gang though, but gang imbalance *in no way* affects actual channel balance, like it does on a normal pot.
And it also allows for range setting, i.e. low, medium, and high volume, So you could use the entire range of the pot to go from say 0-30% of full volume. To me, this is easier than using a special pot to get fine adjustment of volume at low levels.
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yeah but the dac is where the magic happens, besides I need one for the inevitable jump to computer audio.
I get to try the Neko sometime soon, so that's pretty cool.
And by sophisticated I meant, need for inputs or processing, etc. But i have to take your word for it since you do have both. However I figured a nice dac/ldr combo would be my pre system.
hey, i understand wanting a usb dac. at some point, i may have to go there myself. but there's not much (if any?) improvement between a good $400 dac/digital system and a good $10k dac/digital system - amhik. 8) there may be small differences, but actual across-the-board improvements? not imo..
get yourself a great tube pre, and use the ldr for its gain control... :thumb:
doug s.
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The circuit uses current control to change the volume, which allows for using normal volume controls (no special 3 turn pots required) so Alps motorized pots work fine. They do need to be dual gang though, but gang imbalance *in no way* affects actual channel balance, like it does on a normal pot.
And it also allows for range setting, i.e. low, medium, and high volume, So you could use the entire range of the pot to go from say 0-30% of full volume. To me, this is easier than using a special pot to get fine adjustment of volume at low levels.
Does it have to be dual gang? Could 2 mono pots work?
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Hey Jackman, if you change your mind, just say the word.
Really Doug, so you're saying there'd be no real difference between the xda1 I had before and the Neko I'm gonna try out? Why is that? $400 to $1500 and I won't notice it? Because to me, it seems like the dac in a system is a big deal.
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Really Doug, so you're saying there'd be no real difference between the xda1 I had before and the Neko I'm gonna try out? Why is that? $400 to $1500 and I won't notice it? Because to me, it seems like the dac in a system is a big deal.
for redbook cd, there may be differences, (tiny), but not improvements. i have compared a modded art di/o to spendy stuff, including electrocompaniet, alchemist, resolution audio, squeezebox transporter, empirical audio modded northstar dac, empirical audio pacecar, bolder modded sb2, etc... comparisons were done on more than one hi-resolution system.
i am not familiar w/hi-rez digital audio, but i would suspect any decent hi-rez capable dac, w/at least 24/176.4 would be sufficient for hi-rez audio.
i do believe in clean power - my digital was improved w/isolation transformers - at the wery least, use one for dac and another for transport...
ymmv,
doug s.
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Does it have to be dual gang? Could 2 mono pots work?
Sure, if you wanted to do two volume pots, one for each channel, instead of volume and balance, you could easily do it that way too. But each one would still need to be dual gang. One gang controls the upper LDR, the other gang the lower one. The pot generates the 2 voltages that go to the control circuits, which generates the 2 control currents for the upper and lower LDRs.
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Huh.... well dang Doug, I'll try out the Neko but looks maybe another area ($) I can squeeze into maybe something more important.
If it doesn't rip the dac in my cdp a new one I'll be impressed. Shoot, might just buy another XDA-1.
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Huh.... well dang Doug, I'll try out the Neko but looks maybe another area ($) I can squeeze into maybe something more important.
Make sure the DAC you buy will drive your amp. The Neko only has a 1v output. Very few amps these days are driven to full output by 1v. Most take around 2v. You might want to consider the Bryston BDA-1 which has a superb discrete class A output stage.
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Huh.... well dang Doug, I'll try out the Neko but looks maybe another area ($) I can squeeze into maybe something more important.
If it doesn't rip the dac in my cdp a new one I'll be impressed. Shoot, might just buy another XDA-1.
don't you awreddy have an outboard dac? what i am saying, is if it's decent, i would be surprised if the neko "rips it a new one"... depending on how good your cdp is, the neko may or may not be a worthwhile improvement to a one-box cdp. based on my experience w/isolation transformers, i would suspect it worthwhile to separate dac & transport...
doug s.
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Thanks for the tip! I'm actually now considering the BDP-1 as my digital source.
The XDA-1 had 12 volts output peak to peak, I believe. At this point I'm considering the Ncore mono's as my next amp so I'll look into that.
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Nope Doug, I got rid of the dac because it sounds identical to the one in my cdp. Just straight cdp to WS to amp right now.
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Make sure the DAC you buy will drive your amp. The Neko only has a 1v output. Very few amps these days are driven to full output by 1v. Most take around 2v. You might want to consider the Bryston BDA-1 which has a superb discrete class A output stage.
1v output is quite low to be used w/a passive preamp...
doug s.
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If you continue to use a preamp with the volume pot maxed isnt the coloration and other changes to the signal now altered before LDR? I am very new to all of this so I am not arguing, but digging for more understanding.
I also just bought a used Warpspeed.
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From what I understand when the volume is maxed it's basically bypassed.
With the Warpspeed and switching between xda-1 volume maxed to just erc2 cdp was no difference.
..and I guess I'll be evaluating the Neko at lower listening levels then ?
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...i do believe in clean power - my digital was improved w/isolation transformers - at the wery least, use one for dac and another for transport...
For years I ran a Squeezebox 3 "Classic" into a CI-VDA-2 dac . Recently I added a connection scheme where as the SB3 goes into one Monarchy non-upsamp. DIP, then splits off to a Behr DEQ (using Nuetrik impendence tranny adapters, for coaxial to AES/EBU conversion), for Magnepan speakers and a Behr DCX2496, for four subs. The digital signal for the Maggies then comes out of the DEQ, into another non-upsamp. DIP (for jitter reduction) then finally on to the Channel Island DAC, via a 2 meter coaxial cable.
I did this to program in a high pass filter and some tone control for the maggies, along with crossover and EQ for the subs. Was hoping that all that extra stuff wasn't going to screw up the signal too bad.
Don't know if it was due to the extra voltage gain from the DIPs, or upsampling in the DEQ, isolation trannys built into the DIP, or the ones in the Neutriks or maybe a combination of these things, but the results actually took the resolution of the system up a notch. :scratch: :D
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1v output is quite low to be used w/a passive preamp...
doug s.
Quite right. I use a passive with the BDA-1 into W4S monoblocks with great results.
..and I guess I'll be evaluating the Neko at lower listening levels then ?
What is the sensitivity and input impedance of your amp? What is the sensitivity of your speakers? How loud do you listen? You may not need full output from your amp if you listen at low levels. When I was looking at a DAC for my setup I had to reject the Neko because of its low output. With an active pre it would be fine.
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I'll look it up. Virtue Two. Speakers are modded Maggie's with a now claimed sensitivity of 92db. I top out in the mid 80db range before my amp starts to poop out. One of the reasons I am now seeking more headroom. Was fine before but the mod has brought with it BASS.
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"Ohhh, I got me the remote control blues..."
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=58442)
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Sadly that's the reality for most products designed and built here in the US...but happily I don't have the slightest urge to compete with the Eva or anything similarly designed and built.
I can proudly say though that the Warpspeed has all its parts, except for one, procured from vendors in the US of A...and in my own small way help our struggling economy.
PS: the USPS has been a great partner in shipping these...at just shy of warpspeed!
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You're right Allan, your LDR is gorgeous, that other thing looks like a garage door opener from the late 70's.
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Seems the remote is a BIIIIG deal to some people. I envision a Hover'Round and an oxygen tank.
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Explain to me what the appeal of the remote is, please?
And because I sincerely don't have the slightest desire for a remote, let me say that I run my front end through a Bolder Modified Touch that allows me to click "pause" and change songs, etc remotely. But I don't use the volume on it whatsoever. I just set the volume for what I want at the beginning of the session and then, if an album is low/high, I get up, walk ten feet, turn a knob a 1/4 inch, and sit back down. Typically I get a Scotch while I'm up and then start the album over so I can listen all the way through. I never touch the volume except by album and rarely that.
I don't get it but then I don't mind a ten foot walk...sorry, twenty if you count round trip and forty if you count getting a nip. :lol:
John
P.S. And how does that explain snarky posts that everyone knows are intended to be snarky? How does a preference for a remote translate to poor manners? Are we that self-indulgent that we feel entitled to be snarky because someone doesn't make a product at a price we are willing to pay? I find "Cheap and Cheerful" to come with compromises such as getting up twice a night to adjust the volume and get another "adjustment" to my listening experience.
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Some people are addicted to constantly cranking the volume up and down. I've been around such people, it's maddening to listen to music with them.I like a remote. But once I started running the Warpspeed I realized I had absolutely no need of one. You set the volume.. and you walk away.
And you can even just wire it to be right next to your chair, sofa, whatever you listen from. It doesn't HAVE to sit on your rack...I'm sure Allan will figure out how to make this all work and eventually have a more reasonable solution.
Meanwhile, I'm happy to have my Warpspeed as a permanent feature in my system that will remain for years to come.
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this is the cheap n cheerful forum. remember? as has been discussed earlier the sound of ldr attenuators has absolutely ZERO to do with ANYTHING but the ldr's themselves - which are all the same in anyone's product. see this post by a qualified engineer, who explains it a lot better then i ever[/i] could:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=97379.msg1052303#msg1052303
for all of you that want the warpspeed, great - go get one. remote? no remote? i don't care. personally, i rarely use a remote, but when i want to use it, i am glad it's there. and yes, i wouldn't have a preamp in my main rig w/o one. for those that want a remote, you can get a warpspeed and then spend $700 on top of the cost of the unit itself, or you can simply spend $400 and get the unit and the remote. same excellent sound. (also responsive customer serwice, btw.) cheap-n-cheerful. remember?
my preamp looks like a garage door opener from the 70's. great. it looks fine on my rack. you wanna spend more for a preamp that looks like a garage door opener from the 70's, w/a fancy knob & wood faceplate? go get 'er!
there's nothing snarky or in your face here. would i post like this if this were warpspeed's mfr circle? of course not!!! but, this is the CHEAP-N-CHEERFUL FORUM - REMEMBER?!? :duh:
ymmv,
doug s.
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Lol, you're right Doug. It seems there's inflation everywhere huh? Even in the cheap and cheerful forum we buck against the limits.
Clearly though, we should consider the Warpspeed and similar ldr's to be a supreme value.
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Lol, you're right Doug. It seems there's inflation everywhere huh? Even in the cheap and cheerful forum we buck against the limits.
Clearly though, we should consider the Warpspeed and similar ldr's to be a supreme value.
thank you! :thumb:
i agree 100% that the stock warpspeed and similar ldr attenuators are killer. if you or your system cannot handle using a passive preamp, it will improve even an active preamp system - simply set your active's wolume pot to full or almost-full gain, and use the ldr attenuator between your main preamp and your amp(s). even tho it is another link in the chain, it will still sound better - it is that good.
doug s.
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OK all that does is make me want to try a killer active pre.
There's the thing though. I'm enoying "that good" all by itself. Is adding more to the chain, between my cdp and WS really so important?
In what way will adding an active pre improve things beyond this? It's already clean as a whistle, dimensional, real, palpable. I mean, it's battery ldr clean. What more is there? I'm basically a cd player straight to my amp, oh, there's a volume in between.
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...And because I sincerely don't have the slightest desire for a remote, let me say that I run my front end through a Bolder Modified Touch that allows me to click "pause" and change songs, etc remotely. But I don't use the volume on it whatsoever. I just set the volume for what I want at the beginning of the session and then, if an album is low/high, I get up, walk ten feet, turn a knob a 1/4 inch, and sit back down. Typically I get a Scotch while I'm up and then start the album over so I can listen all the way through. I never touch the volume except by album and rarely that...
I pretty much do the same thing, although I am guilty of tweaking the volume level with the squeezebox GUI, but do try to keep as close to 100% as possible. And the the scotch part..Ick! I prefer Bacardi and Mountain Dew (yeah I'm weird like that)... :green:
I sit at a desk as my listening position, and usually surf the net while I listen. IMHO, it is easier to keep the Squeezebox Media server window open on the PC and control it via a mouse, than to have to pick up/put down a remote. Now that's lazy.
As far as batteries and LDRs, I've heard augments both ways. AFAIK, the ldrs are isolated from the power supply, so it is said to be a non-issue. I can see the convenience if one is running other components on battery power, and a small AGM battery, even with a charger throw in, is a heck of a lot cheaper than one of those fancy dancy power conditioner units.
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I'm with the no need for a remote set it and forget it crowd :thumb:. With each disc the volume is adjusted to a point that is comfortable, and then I'm in the chair for a sonic ride. 8) If the need to stop the music should arise, I use the pause feature on my transport remote.
I had a remote on an integrated and couldn't stop fiddlin' with the thing. At softer passages I would turn up the volume and then turn it back down as the music would crescendo to climax (Hey...minds out of the gutter! :nono:).
With the W-speed the clarity is so good, you get the detail without the need to increase the volume. It is a testimate to Allan and his product that music can be enjoyed the way it was written and not manipulated by the listener. 8)
Rodge
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I thought I needed a remote and traded out my Promitheus passive pre for a Placette with remote. When the Warpspeed came along, the sound was far superior than any other active or passive preamp I've owned that the idea of needing a remote seemed silly. Set it and forget it.
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Hey Warpspeed,
I emailed you about buying one of these things, can you get back to me? RBrenay AT gmail.com?
Thanks!
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BTW: Ill ask here, will the lightspeed work with my system?
Logitech Squeezebox analogue out to the lightspeed, right into a Class D Audio SDS470 power amp?
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For everyone saying they don't need a remote - none of us need a remote - it is just very handy to have one. Who wants to get up every 5 minutes to adjust the volume when playing individual songs from an 8,400+ losslessly encoded digital song collection. That is why I want/need a remote... I prefer exercising when I want, not when I am relaxing and listening to music.
Martin
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Doug, with the sound I have now, I can't imagine a pre improving things unless it was super high end. I dont really need any gain I dont think, my erc-2 puts out a huge signal.
This will be the absolute dead last thing I experiment with, but I can see myself giving ut a go.
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Sorry it took so long for me to get to this.
I removed several contentious posts from later in this thread. Let's please keep this on topic!
Paul
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What are "potted" components?
Also potting is done to keep things from being microphonic, commonly done with guitar pickups and as already noted electrical components. Yes, to hiding what's under the hood so to speak, Howard Dumble who is one of the gods of Guitar Amps does that so nobody can figure out why his amps sound better than most everyone elses.
Jim
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Correct on both counts Jim. Although I've spoken to Allan about this and in this case it's definitely potted for security, or as Allan says, "To give those guys over on DIY a good riddle." as well as some other interested parties. He's not getting rich on these, but the hard work he's put in should be protected.
Oh, and thanks to Paul in Admin for taking the time to clean up the somewhat complicated mess the thread had gotten itself into and restoring it to it's rightful place at C&C. It's one of the most perennial threads here and I'd hate to lose it, I'm sure we all know how to stay on point here.
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I am thinking about selling my Cambridge DACMagic for a Grant Tube Dac 11 for several I think good reasons. One is the headphone amp which I have none in my system right now. Also my Optocoupler has one input, but a Tubedac offers me several inputs all of which I can use.
Again as I asked before I am worried about introducing another volume control to the scheme. My system is so simple right now. I would also eliminate my Grant Tube buffer from the system eliminating two more cords and another power cord.
Any thoughts if this will be a bad idea? I cant see any downsides right now, but I dont know much.
I am sure this is going to make many cringe, but I bought two RCA splitters and am running my DAC and phono pre to my Optocoupler at the same time. I am just careful to not have both on at once.
TIA,
Ray
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I have both in my system ray. I'd hold onto your dac while demo'ing the gf.
The dac-11 is just fine but it's best when the tube output is used. As best I can tell the fixed output that I use with the ws is the non tubed output and isn't all that great. I'm listening now with the ws out of the chain and prefer it.
The issue is with the dac-11 though.
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I have both in my system ray. I'd hold onto your dac while demo'ing the gf.
The dac-11 is just fine but it's best when the tube output is used. As best I can tell the fixed output that I use with the ws is the non tubed output and isn't all that great. I'm listening now with the ws out of the chain and prefer it.
The issue is with the dac-11 though.
What if I ran the Tubedac through tube output with volume maxed? Thanks for your observations. I would like to use tube out as well. If not sort of defeats the purpose to me.
Sadly I always need to sell something to buy something else.
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What if I ran the Tubedac through tube output with volume maxed? Thanks for your observations. I would like to use tube out as well. If not sort of defeats the purpose to me.
Sadly I always need to sell something to buy something else.
my experience w/other equipment - preamps and integrated amps used as amps - is if you max their wolume pots, it effectively acts as a bypass for them. and, you could always physically bypass the pot by wiring it out of the signal path...
i second gooberdude's suggestion not to sell your present dac until you can scrape up enough cash to purchase the g-f unit w/o having to sell what you presently are using. it is definitely best to demo something while you still have what you were using before. then sell the one you prefer the least.
doug s.
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I am sure this is going to make many cringe, but I bought two RCA splitters and am running my DAC and phono pre to my Optocoupler at the same time. I am just careful to not have both on at once.
I can see wanting it simple, but not too simple. The problem here is the one output is driving the other output, even when off. Not optimal. Why not make / buy a little switchbox? A DPDT switch would give 2 in, one out X 2 channels.
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Still loving my Warpspeed :thumb:
I may end up purchasing a fully built version so I can have balanced signal from source all the way to my next amps.
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Why not make / buy a little switchbox?
Decware has a six input switch box that would work well for $119.00 + shipping.
http://www.decware.com/newsite/rotary.htm
Rodge
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my experience w/other equipment - preamps and integrated amps used as amps - is if you max their wolume pots, it effectively acts as a bypass for them. and, you could always physically bypass the pot by wiring it out of the signal path...
A comment on this one - be careful. You need to really have an idea what the level is out of the active preamp coming into the LDR based control before embracing this one.
For instance, my VTV design 6SN7 based active tube preamp has about 15X gain at max volume. If I used it this way, I'd be feeding 15-30V rms to my LDR control, for sources that put out a standard 1-2V rms.
This may put a strain on the LDR's - like any resistor, they can only take so many watts before overheating. The specs here are clear - 50mW is the max power dissipation for the "cell", which I take to mean the resistive unit. If the LDR is at say 500ohms, even at 10V it is dissipating 200mW - 4X the limit.
http://www.silonex.com/datasheets/specs/images/pdf/104057.pdf
The problem here is the preamp's gain, which is fixed. Normally there is a pot in FRONT of the gain stage, to attenuate the signal. So you end up greatly attenuating the signal, only to greatly amplify it again, to get back to where you started, at say 1V.
Now, doing so may sound better, so cool. But you can see why others have gone to zero gain buffers to eliminate this huge attenuation followed by huge gain thing going on in some designs.
And last, let's talk distortion. It's fairly well know from past results presented elsewhere that the Silonex LDR distortion is a function of amplitude. The higher the input level, the higher the distortion. I have not run my own tests on this one point, but it's something to be aware of, (for good or for bad). Maybe the distortion sounds good for people.
In fact, from my tests, done at a typical 0.7Vrms, things are pretty clean at say -10 or -20 dB attenuation with my design. I have a couple of real time FFT instruments, an Ono Sokki CF-6400 and HP 3562A, so always look at distortion and harmonics that make up the distortion. At 1kHz, fully CW (0dB attenuation) in my tests, there are no harmonics down to almost -100dB, which is pretty amazing.
Last thing - be aware that all these LDR designs present an unusually low load to the upstream component. I say unusually, because in the past it was typical to think of minimum loads as being say, 10K ohms. Well, some of these designs can present a load of 400-500 ohms! It depends on how you do the control, and where you operate it. But simply look at the data sheet above - anytime the LED current is above 1ma, resistance is below 250 ohms. Below .2ma, it's below 1k ohms. Do some components distort more when driving loads this low?
Yes, they do! Maybe we like that.
But if so, you can try using a 500ohm or 1k pot instead, it would be an easier way to get the same effect.
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First off, thanks to AC for the Quarantine time and then reinstating this Thread back...I appreciate it.
In fact, from my tests, done at a typical 0.7Vrms, things are pretty clean at say -10 or -20 dB attenuation with my design. I have a couple of real time FFT instruments, an Ono Sokki CF-6400 and HP 3562A, so always look at distortion and harmonics that make up the distortion. At 1kHz, fully CW (0dB attenuation) in my tests, there are no harmonics down to almost -100dB, which is pretty amazing.
BFitz, I'm not back here to restart an argument but the above quote is all that make sense to me from your post. The other statements also show you still don't have a good handle on how the optocouplers work...
For users who want to try the W'speed with an active preamp, connect the W'speed before the active preamp and not after it. This way you still control the line levels from your Source and not the amplified levels from the active preamp. This way you can max out your internal carbon pot...although you will still have the wiper of the pot in your signal path you will hear the difference the W'speed brings to the table. If you think it is quite good then you might as well solder a jumper across your carbon pot. If you decide to remove the pot, check with your preamp manufacturer first if an input to ground high value resistor is needed in the pot's place.
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"...A comment on this one - be careful. You need to really have an idea what the level is out of the active preamp coming into the LDR based control before embracing this one.
For instance, my VTV design 6SN7 based active tube preamp has about 15X gain at max volume. If I used it this way, I'd be feeding 15-30V rms to my LDR control, for sources that put out a standard 1-2V rms.
This may put a strain on the LDR's - like any resistor, they can only take so many watts before overheating. The specs here are clear - 50mW is the max power dissipation for the "cell", which I take to mean the resistive unit. If the LDR is at say 500ohms, even at 10V it is dissipating 200mW - 4X the limit..."
this is something to consider, for sure... all i know, is i have been running my eva-2 for 2 years now, after my melos, which has a pretty decent gain. everything is still perfectly functional. and, if there were any more distortion being introduced, i don't think my reaction would be that my system is now more transparent than it was before...
doug s.
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all i know, is i have been running my eva-2 for 2 years now, after my melos, which has a pretty decent gain. everything is still perfectly functional.
Have you tried it before the Melos? If so what were your results? If not, why not? Just curious as someone who will be going down a similar path soon...
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Have you tried it before the Melos? If so what were your results? If not, why not? Just curious as someone who will be going down a similar path soon...
no, i haven't tried it before my preamp. i have more than 3 inputs; the eva-2 has only 3 inputs. inputs include cd, winyl, 2 tunas, and computer for internet streaming. and, i have a dbx in the melos' tape loop, which i like to use for compressed recordings. it's 100% out of the signal path when disengaged... it never occurred to me to try it before the preamp, as i never had anything but stellar results when i inserted it after...
if you are like most "normal" folks, :lol: you should be fine running an eva-2 (or warpspeed w/multiple inputs) before your preamp, as most folks have 3 or less sources, and do not use a dbx, or otherwise have use for a tape loop.
doug s.
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BFitz, I'm not back here to restart an argument but the above quote is all that make sense to me from your post. The other statements also show you still don't have a good handle on how the optocouplers work...
First, I consider this an attack, from the view point that there is only one person who *really* understands optocouplers, and that everyone else is in the woods.
Warpspeed CE may have nice products that people like, but that does not give him a license to dismiss people or their experience carte blance, as above, with no reply to points made.
If you want to discuss a response to the technical points above, please do so.
Where is disagreement showing misunderstanding?
Am I not allowed to post here without being summarily dismissed, and undermined? These points above are broad, and talk about multiple LDR designs, not any one in particular.
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For users who want to try the W'speed with an active preamp, connect the W'speed before the active preamp and not after it.
Did you miss this part in my post above?
"Normally there is a pot in FRONT of the gain stage, to attenuate the signal."
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I can see wanting it simple, but not too simple. The problem here is the one output is driving the other output, even when off. Not optimal. Why not make / buy a little switchbox? A DPDT switch would give 2 in, one out X 2 channels.
I thought it sounded a bit hazy after switching, but I didnt try it back to one single source. I may do that tonight depending on if I hit the cave tonight. For sure it still sounds so amazing even with this crazy set-up.
Edit:ok, I am using one input at a time or building a switching box. That was kind of an amazing back to back comparo for sure. No need for blind testing on this one.
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Okay, you gentlemen have about 3 seconds to start behaving, we just cleaned up this thread. Warpspeed CE, your post is fine except the part where you reply to BFitz, which is blatantly baiting him. BFitz, your posts are fine except the ones you reply to Warpspeed CE in. This gives us a wonderful opportunity to nip this in the bud, ergo:
Warpspeed CE and BFitz are not allowed to respond to each other's posts in this circle in any way, shape or form. This means implied and direct statements. Violation of this will result in the posts being deleted, the thread locked, and both participants banned from posting in this circle, at least until I forget about how much time was wasted on this.
This will allow both parties to contribute their very valuable insights, without any incites. Neither party will be shouted down by the other and we all can benefit from their considerable experience.
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I will abide...
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To crank our Thread back to life...
I have 2 conceptual and preliminary designs for a multichannel unit. Please let me know if you have something, application-wise in mind...For specific questions please PM me (email is better -click on envelope below my name).
For further online discussions please visit the Warpspeed thread at diyAudio. Thanks!
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Alan, I really wish you would empty your pm box :). Tried to message you. Failed repeatedly.
Honestly, you've probably missed a lot of orders this way!
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Ok, I dunnit...
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To crank our Thread back to life...
I have 2 conceptual and preliminary designs for a multichannel unit. The following features are what I have in mind:
-both designs are switchable from 2-ch to +2, or +4, for a 6-ch total in Unbalanced(RCAs) only mode; and Balanced(mini-XLRs) only will also be from 2-ch to +2, or +4, for a 6-ch total
-the 1st design is the HT unit and will have Front L-R, Center, Surround L-R, and Sub; the Front L-R will have a balance control; the Center and Surround channels will have 8dB level controls; and a main volume control for a >110dB of attenuation
-the 2nd design is the 6-ch unit that will have 6 identical line level inputs/outs with individual 8dB level controls and a main volume control that attenuates up to >110dB; depending on preference, channels can be switch added as described above
-the 8dB level controls are continuous fine adjustments from the transWarp design, used to tune each channel in relation to each other
-all channels are full-bandwidth without any filtering
-both designs are battery powered
-both have optional remote control for the Main VC
I believe these features fit most stereo and HT applications for most audiophiles. I have no pricing and timelines yet.
Please let me know if you have something else, application-wise in mind...Thanks!
Alan -- can you explain how to integrate a Warpspeed into an HT system. I'm having trouble conceptualizing how the Warpspeed will work in an HT system. How does it bypass the volume control on the HT processor or AV receiver?
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That would be easy, Brad...we will bypass the AV processor or receiver altogether:) You will need a Bluray/DVD player with Front L-R, Surround L-R, Center, SW analog OUTs(RCA or XLRs) -all of Oppo's line-up has the RCAs and others out their might have the Balanced XLRs for each channel; 5 channels of amplification; 5 loudspeakers; a powered sub and you're ready to rock your listening room with movies in surround.
All the processing that we need is inside today's Bluray/DVD players. Additional processing are only if we require some artificial ambience like Theater/Arena/Sports, etc. Surround time delays are mostly for small rooms. If you really want to incorporate a processor, one with the 6 ch of analog outputs will be needed.
We will need some serious amount of cabling though...but who's afraid of cables?:)
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That would be easy, Brad...we will bypass the AV processor or receiver altogether:) You will need a Bluray/DVD player with Front L-R, Surround L-R, Center, SW analog OUTs(RCA or XLRs) -all of Oppo's line-up has the RCAs and others out their might have the Balanced XLRs for each channel; 5 channels of amplification; 5 loudspeakers; a powered sub and you're ready to rock your listening room with movies in surround.
All the processing that we need is inside today's Bluray/DVD players. Additional processing are only if we require some artificial ambience like Theater/Arena/Sports, etc. Surround time delays are mostly for small rooms. If you really want to incorporate a processor, one with the 6 ch of analog outputs will be needed.
We will need some serious amount of cabling though...but who's afraid of cables?:)
Gotcha.
I have an Emotiva HT processor that trumps the sound of AV receivers. If I remove it and rely exclusively on my blu-ray DVD player to process the signal for me, will I be compromising the sound? Besides, AV receivers and processors come with a wealth of other goodies that make them very useful such as bass management, mics for adjusting the sound, iPod integration, USB ports, wireless connectivity, 3D capability, etc. Seems as though the usefulness of an HT Warpspeed would be limited to multi-channel audio for those who still listen to SACD and DVD-A. Am I way off base here? I hope so.
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I don't think the sound will be compromised based on what I hear with my Warpspeed on movies. The clarity of sound also comes through and dialogue is just excellent. Please try it with yours...
Bells and whistles are what the W'speed cannot offer. Bass management with variable xover bass frequencies is offered by the Oppo 93 and 95...so with USB ports, wireless connectivity, 3D capability, and a host of others which most of us probably do not need.
Unused channels can be switched off to just stereo channels for all your audiophile music needs...
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I plug my ps3 into the system and watch blurays. Sounds frikkin awesome! Master and Commander is a really good benchmark and through the WS you get it all, totally pristine.
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Not to derail the thread but Master and Commander is an awesome movie for sound effects. The battle scenes are simply amazing ...the boom of th cannons coupled with the tinkling of breaking glass is unreal.
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I don't think the sound will be compromised based on what I hear with my Warpspeed on movies. The clarity of sound also comes through and dialogue is just excellent. Please try it with yours...
Bells and whistles are what the W'speed cannot offer. Bass management with variable xover bass frequencies is offered by the Oppo 93 and 95...so with USB ports, wireless connectivity, 3D capability, and a host of others which most of us probably do not need.
Unused channels can be switched off to just stereo channels for all your audiophile music needs...
OK, I'm convinced. The key is gonna be in your pricing strategy, especially with a remote option which is a greater convenience for HT than 2-channel.
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I don't think the sound will be compromised based on what I hear with my Warpspeed on movies. The clarity of sound also comes through and dialogue is just excellent. Please try it with yours...
Bells and whistles are what the W'speed cannot offer. Bass management with variable xover bass frequencies is offered by the Oppo 93 and 95...so with USB ports, wireless connectivity, 3D capability, and a host of others which most of us probably do not need.
Unused channels can be switched off to just stereo channels for all your audiophile music needs...
Hi, This may seem like a stupid question, ... here goes. I am thinking about getting one of your couplers. If I happen to wire the battery or 500MA 12VDC backwards, I know the LEDs won't work. Will this damage anything else?
Also, I think I asked this before, and received no answer to this. You say the voltage requirements for this coupler is between 12V and 24V. If I raise the voltage to say 18V assuming I am using the same like a 500MA wallwart, will there be any differences here?
Ray Bronk
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Warpspeed CE you have a PM.
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Hi, This may seem like a stupid question, ... here goes. I am thinking about getting one of your couplers. If I happen to wire the battery or 500MA 12VDC backwards, I know the LEDs won't work. Will this damage anything else?
Also, I think I asked this before, and received no answer to this. You say the voltage requirements for this coupler is between 12V and 24V. If I raise the voltage to say 18V assuming I am using the same like a 500MA wallwart, will there be any differences here?
Ray Bronk
Ray,
I had similar worries. What I got back from WarpspeedCE was that using the battery was important. I can tell you, it hasn't been an inconvenience in my system at all. What I did was spend a little more on a battery that I worked with WarpspeedCE on selecting. This has a couple of advantages:
First, it has never run down. I have measured it after a month of extended listening and it has always been nearly fully charged. I learned that more frequent recharging rather than deep cycling the SLA batteries is preferred, so every few weeks I recharge it while I am at work (I have certain "long" work days that last 14+ hours so that is when I charge the battery...disconnected from the WS).
Second, I know I bought the right "type" (both in type of battery and in connector style).
Third, WarpspeedCE made the power cord with color coding for the tabs so it is simple to make sure you have the polarity right. And since it is a quick disconnect on the back of the WS, I never removed the power cord tabs. Very simple and worry free. You can see in the photo that the battery has a manufacture's "red" positive marking and the power cord is color coded "red" for positive and "black" for negative.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=59614)
Here is a quote of my charging comments and batter type from earlier in the thread, if that is helpful:
All this talk of failed SLA batteries caused me to check my battery: 12.24 DCV after 30 days of listening sessions. I'm glad I got a large battery but will continue to check it's voltage regularly. I have already posted this before but will post again for those who are looking for batteries to purchase. I'm using a Panasonic SLA 12v 7.2aH battery:
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LC-R127R2P1-battery-lead-acid/dp/B0002ILJX2/ref%3dsr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318202010&sr=8-2 (http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LC-R127R2P1-battery-lead-acid/dp/B0002ILJX2/ref%3dsr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318202010&sr=8-2)
John
Best,
John
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Thank you for your explanation, John. The picture helps too!
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Ray,
I had similar worries. What I got back from WarpspeedCE was that using the battery was important. I can tell you, it hasn't been an inconvenience in my system at all. What I did was spend a little more on a battery that I worked with WarpspeedCE on selecting. This has a couple of advantages:
First, it has never run down. I have measured it after a month of extended listening and it has always been nearly fully charged. I learned that more frequent recharging rather than deep cycling the SLA batteries is preferred, so every few weeks I recharge it while I am at work (I have certain "long" work days that last 14+ hours so that is when I charge the battery...disconnected from the WS).
Second, I know I bought the right "type" (both in type of battery and in connector style).
Third, WarpspeedCE made the power cord with color coding for the tabs so it is simple to make sure you have the polarity right. And since it is a quick disconnect on the back of the WS, I never removed the power cord tabs. Very simple and worry free. You can see in the photo that the battery has a manufacture's "red" positive marking and the power cord is color coded "red" for positive and "black" for negative.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=59614)
Here is a quote of my charging comments and batter type from earlier in the thread, if that is helpful:
Best,
John
Hi John,
Thanks for the info on the SLA battery. In the meantime, both my questions stand unanswered. Thanks for the color coding which I cannot see. My wife can. But i wanted to in the very short term try this with a wallwart of 12V 300MA or 500MA. I was concerned about hooking this up backwards. I could then get the battery and charger, and in between usage of the battery, I could use the wallwart. Anyway, just a concern.
Ray Bronk
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Sorry I misunderstood. It was recommended not to use a switching power supply but that would be for WarpspeedCE to explain.
Best,
John
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Hi, This may seem like a stupid question, ... here goes. I am thinking about getting one of your couplers. If I happen to wire the battery or 500MA 12VDC backwards, I know the LEDs won't work. Will this damage anything else?
Also, I think I asked this before, and received no answer to this. You say the voltage requirements for this coupler is between 12V and 24V. If I raise the voltage to say 18V assuming I am using the same like a 500MA wallwart, will there be any differences here?
Ray Bronk
Ray,
The 'Squid (control circuit) will not conduct if the polarity is reversed. I suggest you do not do this deliberately just to find out -as this voids the warranty, and so with plugging-in an AC supply which definitely will break it. With a voltmeter and an ohmmeter, no way you will still reverse it...otherwise for your safety and that of the equipment have someone technically capable do it. Labeling and double-checking your work before plugging-in will also prevent accidents. 6V thru 24V will work.
Battery power is still the best source of DC power. SMPS or even linear PS will still have spikes, ripples, and noise artifacts that will couple to the LDRs. I recommend you acquire your SLA battery/charger before you receive your unit. If you don't mind using alkalines, which I do use...I can also build a 4x 9V battery harness on request.
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Ray,
The 'Squid (control circuit) will not conduct if the polarity is reversed. I suggest you do not do this deliberately just to find out -as this voids the warranty, and so with plugging-in an AC supply which definitely will break it. With a voltmeter and an ohmmeter, no way you will still reverse it...otherwise for your safety and that of the equipment have someone technically capable do it. Labeling and double-checking your work before plugging-in will also prevent accidents. 6V thru 24V will work.
Battery power is still the best source of DC power. SMPS or even linear PS will still have spikes, ripples, and noise artifacts that will couple to the LDRs. I recommend you acquire your SLA battery/charger before you receive your unit. If you don't mind using alkalines, which I do use...I can also build a 4x 9V battery harness on request.
Hi,
"Let me make this abundantly clear." Remember who said that? I have no intentions lol to deliberately plug in the supply backwards to see what would happen. I do know the LEDs wouldn't work. That won't damage them. I do wonder if anything else would be damaged. That was kinda my question.
Now as for my other question, is there an optimum voltage to operate the coupler? Besides the 9V and 12V you have anywhere up to the 24V figure. if not, then this is strictly a current thing, and the voltages don't matter? It just can't go below 6VDC.
How long does the 9V supply last versus say a 12V stack of D cells?
That was all I was asking. The wallwart idea was at best a tempary idea.
Ray Bronk
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Ok, I meant it more as a precaution for everyone who reads thru our posts. Usually one's questions are someone else's too.
Anywhere between 6V to 24V is optimum dc voltage...will not affect performance. I've tried listening with 9V and 12V battery supplies but can't tell the difference. I've only bench tested with the other voltages like 6V, 18V and 24V.
I've had my (8x 1.5V)x2 Duracell alkalines for 13 months now and the reading today is 11.11V. For the 4x 9V at 3 hours daily use on a V4, I expect it to last 6 months or more. I say forget about the wallwart...:)
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Ok, I meant it more as a precaution for everyone who reads thru our posts. Usually one's questions are someone else's too.
Anywhere between 6V to 24V is optimum dc voltage...will not affect performance. I've tried listening with 9V and 12V battery supplies but can't tell the difference. I've only bench tested with the other voltages like 6V, 18V and 24V.
I've had my (8x 1.5V)x2 Duracell alkalines for 13 months now and the reading today is 11.11V. For the 4x 9V at 3 hours daily use on a V4, I expect it to last 6 months or more. I say forget about the wallwart...:)
Hi Warpspeed CE,
I kinda figured that was the case. When it comes time to buy, I'll discuss with you about the 8 D cells and there box to put them in and how to properly connect them if necessary.
Ray Bronk
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Hello ACers,
To resuscitate this thread, would it be more appropriate to relocate it to "The Commercial Zone"? Anyway the Warpspeed is not considered "Cheap and Cheerful" anymore as the kit is no longer offered.
If it requires the the thread starter to request such, I would then respectfully request thru RClark.
Also by being at "The CZ", I won't have to think twice if my postings have promotional content? Please correct me if I got that wrong.
Thanks!
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hey yeah, you know, I would certainly think a thread over there, or this one, would be neat. I'm still very much loving mine. You should consider another tour with different members. Fantastic device.
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Plays very well with tube amps.
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Also by being at "The CZ", I won't have to think twice if my postings have promotional content? Please correct me if I got that wrong.
Thanks!
You have to register as an Industry Associate to post about your products in the Commercial Zone. There was free trial period in September, but a monthly subscription of $20 was targeted. Check with JohnR about whether that has kicked in yet as I'm seeing a couple of threads started by Industry Participants and regular members there after October.
As far as moving the thread, I'm fine with whatever Rclark and WarpspeedCE decide, however I would think it to be confusing and counterproductive to move this thread which was about building a kit that is no longer offered. Perhaps starting a new thread(s) about various products you manufacture might be more productive. Typically threads like this just die out from lack of interest. Sometimes they're revived by people still doing a build or troubleshooting a build, such as the $175 amp thread, so you might think about leaving it here in case that happens.
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Big thanks guys! Please enjoy some more...
Letitroll98, thanks for the info...since I'm not about to be in the Industry full time anytime soon, we'll just keep things as it is then.
I always try to keep things updated at diyAudio.com so anyone with questions can post there too, email/pm thru AC or diyA. I can freely answer at diyA without having to worry about content and such.
Thanks for hosting a thread here though...
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I'm saddened to learn that the fine craftsman from Oregon who took on making the Warpspeed front/rear panels has passed away. For privacy reasons I won't state his name here as he is not a member. I'm proud that his work resides with my work and is being enjoyed both visually and aurally around the world.
Rest in peace KMK...
In light of the above, I'm looking for an equally fine woodcraftsperson who is willing to supply in small batches...please pass it on also if you know someone. I can be reached thru AC by PM or email. Thanks!
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We could do these in my shop. I did similar projects a while back for owners of the Promethius TVC units.
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Thanks Christof, I just replied to your email...
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I'm saddened to learn that the fine craftsman from Oregon who took on making the Warpspeed front/rear panels has passed away. For privacy reasons I won't state his name here as he is not a member. I'm proud that his work resides with my work and is being enjoyed both visually and aurally around the world.
Rest in peace KMK...
I am proud to have his work in my home...and it is more meaningful now.
Rest in peace indeed....
John
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I just wanted to post a few thoughts on Allan's wonderful Warpspeed I love it in my system . I only have two sources a Mac Mini computer with a Ultra Fi Musicstream DAC and external hard drive with 23000 songs . My analog setup is a Basis 2001 turntable , Graham 2.2 tonearm, Dynavector XX2 MK2 cartridge and 1600 records. This feeds a Aesthetix Rhea phono stage then on to a NAT SE2SE SET tube amp with 211 tubes. I use all Ridge Street audio cables [ power cords , interconnect , phono and speaker ] love them also . The speakers are from North Creek Music Systems when they made kits I have the Manifest model a MTM design with Scan speak woofers and a pair of ribbon tweeters one front one back side. I had the cabinets made by a local wood worker who did beautiful work with a waterfall bubinga wood . The room was built just for music in the basement of my home its size is 17 X 24 X 7.6 the room size was picked by the speaker designer . I have to say in my system a passive pre works wonderful i have never had better sound the first records i played gave me goose bumps and i had tears in my eyes . I can think of no better compliment to give Allan for his Warpspeed just great . I would say if a passive works in your system give it a try you will love it and it is also beautiful to look at. Allan is just great to work with he keep me updated on the build progress and the packing for shipment was great also Thanks so much for a great product . Allan feel free to quote me if you like or e mail me with any questions again thanks for letting me get closer to the music..
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I will post some pictures later I have to go to work now as above feel free to use my pictures if you like .
Thanks Marc [ marc 513 ]
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It was my pleasure building a V4x2 for you, Marc. You were kind enough to allow me to send my remaining front panel to Terrawood as Chris needed one to create a template. You were also patient enought to wait for me to get it back that added another week to get completed. I'm happy that you like the Warpspeed very much...
I appreciate your kind words and compliments. May you enjoy your system for years and years to come!
I'm looking forward to pictures of what sounds like an impressive music room with an equally impressive music collection...
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Hey, just wanted to let you know I am still loving mine. Mine is a kit version built by Trung here. It is definitely a unique feature of my system.
I'm still pretty new to the hobby but I rather like my system of a great cdp, your LDR, Ncores, and modded planars. I am constantly blown away by the sound.
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This is not something out of left field for me but has been brewing for some time now. Due to what I'm sure now will be increased workload at my day job in the coming months I will not be accepting new orders at this time. Building new Warpspeeds will be put on snooze indefinitely while I concentrate my efforts on the job at hand. Gotta satisfy the bosses.
I might come up with a very limited number of builds per year just to keep it going but right now I'm not sure -we'll see. Just keep an eye on the thread at diyA as that is where I update as needed.
Thank you to all who have been following this thread, I'm quite happy how it turned out -I still can't believe interest would be this much. For those who now own a kit or a fully-built unit, enjoy! If used as intended it will last a lifetime...or more.
Ps: Thanks Rclark. Enjoy it!
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Hey, just wanted to let you know I am still loving mine. Mine is a kit version built by Trung here. It is definitely a unique feature of my system.
I'm still pretty new to the hobby but I rather like my system of a great cdp, your LDR, Ncores, and modded planars. I am constantly blown away by the sound.
You really need to ditch that cdp and just put some software on your PC or Mac and try an ODAC. i'll even send you mine to try first. You would be amazed at how that will add to your experience.
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Hey thanks Jason :D I would love to take you up on that. Would be fun to compare to my cdp, which sounds great, but has Sigma-Delta type dac, which apparently is less than ideal.
I'll be back into audio purchases in June after I buy my new motorcycle, and source gear is on the list.
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I appologize if it`s already been covered but I`m interested in the V4x2. I listen to vinyl mostly but have recently bought a CD recorder to copy LP`s.
Will the V4x2 work with any phono stage ? and will it work with my Rogue ST90 tube amp ?
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This is not something out of left field for me but has been brewing for some time now. Due to what I'm sure now will be increased workload at my day job in the coming months I will not be accepting new orders at this time. Building new Warpspeeds will be put on snooze indefinitely while I concentrate my efforts on the job at hand. Gotta satisfy the bosses.
I might come up with a very limited number of builds per year just to keep it going but right now I'm not sure -we'll see. Just keep an eye on the thread at diyA as that is where I update as needed.
Thank you to all who have been following this thread, I'm quite happy how it turned out -I still can't believe interest would be this much. For those who now own a kit or a fully-built unit, enjoy! If used as intended it will last a lifetime...or more.
Congratulations and good luck with your increased day job duties...not a bad problem to have, really!
John
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Hi
Dose anyone know who is best to talk to regarding purchasing a Warpspeed Optocoupler Volume Kit ??