Sub screws

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rockdrummer

Sub screws
« on: 18 Feb 2017, 09:54 pm »
Hi everyonethe screws that came with my servos are too long to stay shorter than the 3/4 inch super v baffle. As far as I can tell, I am not missing anything.

I searched and read/scanned several threads and saw somebody use screw spacers so that's probably what I will do. This post is mostly to confirm I'm not crazy.
Thanks.
Ben

mlundy57

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #1 on: 19 Feb 2017, 12:18 am »
Ben

I've used 3/4" baffles in H-Frames and the screws that come with the 12" drivers with no problems. I did not use any spacers other than the drivers themselves.

Mike

rockdrummer

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #2 on: 19 Feb 2017, 02:59 pm »




Here is the screw going through just a bit.

I assume spacers are easy to find or just grabbing other screws. But I like the barrel shape head of these screws.

Ben

mlundy57

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #3 on: 19 Feb 2017, 03:23 pm »
Not good. ACE hardware carries a variety of hard rubber/nylon washers in different thicknesses. They should have something that would fit in the drivers mounting ring.


Mark Korda

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Re: Sub screws
« Reply #4 on: 19 Feb 2017, 03:39 pm »
Hi Ben,
   Parts Express makes these special nuts for that. They are called Hurricane Nuts. If you have already drilled those holes and they all came thru you can re-design the sub project with the screws and use bolts and hurricane nuts. Just ream the holes with the proper drill size and make sure you think (air-tight) with some sort of caulking or I use modeling clay, the kind that does not harden...Mark Korda(http://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=hurricane%20nuts&sitesearch=true)

rockdrummer

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #5 on: 19 Feb 2017, 04:05 pm »
Thanks Mark.  The most valuable thing I have learned about woodworking/diy speakers and gear, is that there is always some sort of tool or technique for every situation. And i don't know them yet. Thanks for looking into that and the link! 

I checked the length before I went for the pilot holes, so I am still good.
Ben

Armaegis

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Re: Sub screws
« Reply #6 on: 19 Feb 2017, 04:51 pm »
and make sure you think (air-tight) with some sort of caulking or I use modeling clay, the kind that does not harden
Try plumber's putty from the hardware store. It's cheap and super easy to work with.

Peter J

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Re: Sub screws
« Reply #7 on: 19 Feb 2017, 05:02 pm »
I think I know that guy that uses spacers...

These guys have about everything a speaker builder could want, hardware wise. I'm not sure where the clay/putty material factors into the picture. The drivers have rubber surround/gasket attached.

In recent build, I used "hurricane" nuts and #8 socket head machine screws.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#

https://www.mcmaster.com/#90309a804/=16f9oeo

https://www.mcmaster.com/#92105a660/=16f9w10

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91251a203/=16f9x7c

Odal3

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Re: Sub screws
« Reply #8 on: 19 Feb 2017, 05:17 pm »
The screws that came with my 12" GR sub drivers were also too long for 3/4.

PDR

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Re: Sub screws
« Reply #9 on: 19 Feb 2017, 06:55 pm »
Yep, mine as well.

I noticed before hand, and because I used pilot holes I simply nipped the points off.......with nippers.... :thumb:

Danny Richie

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Re: Sub screws
« Reply #10 on: 20 Feb 2017, 03:50 pm »
Yep, mine as well.

I noticed before hand, and because I used pilot holes I simply nipped the points off.......with nippers.... :thumb:

This is the best solution really.

And pre-drill your holes.

Of course if you are using thicker baffles then they don't poke through.

rockdrummer

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #11 on: 21 Feb 2017, 01:35 pm »
Hi guys.  Went to the store, got tiny lock washers, and cut the tips off.  Works just great.

I used a tin snips to cut the screw tip, I'm not gonna lie, that was a challenge.  I might look for a better tool for that job.

Thanks.

Ben

mikeeastman

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #12 on: 21 Feb 2017, 01:50 pm »
Wire cutters will work better than tin snips, but I find a Dremel Tool with a cut off wheel works the best.

jimbones

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #13 on: 21 Feb 2017, 01:52 pm »
Related: Is it recommended, or not, to put a round-over on the rear side of the hole for the driver?
I assume not, but wanted to ask. That could limit screw length an I want as much wood as possible.

rockdrummer

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #14 on: 21 Feb 2017, 02:22 pm »
Jimbones, I have a roundover.  I have asked that question before.  Danny said that it isn't crucial, that it may help a little, and won't hurt.  I used a bigger roundover than the smaller drivers use.  I used a 1/2".  I set it in the router just a tiny bit short so it wouldn't dig out where the driver screws would be.  I use 3 washers, cutting the tip of the screw and I didn't go through.

I will look for an old wire cutters and try that.  I just feared it would dull the nice ones I had on my bench at the time. 

Ben

Captainhemo

Re: Sub screws
« Reply #15 on: 21 Feb 2017, 04:31 pm »
Like Ben said,   it isn't necessary but if you have the router and the bit, it's worth doing for the   little bit of time it takes.
I put  .5" round overs on the  rear side of all woofer cutouts in our 1" baffles

jay